DIY Router Table Part 3 - Dust Collection
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this third and final part of my series on building a router table attached to a cabinet saw, I will take you through how I built a vacuum box for dust collection.
Unfortunately I also had my first router table accident, captured on video but lucky for me I wasn't harmed, it only cost me a broken router bit, which at the end of the day is pretty cheap compared to body parts!
Parts used in this series:
Router - amzn.to/39B8vj2
Router plate - amzn.to/3MnSgqv
Levelers - amzn.to/3MnlYMl
Dust port - amzn.to/3nUKI4B
t-track (KM tools) - kmtools.com/co...
t-track (Amazon) - amzn.to/41dsZ6i
Stop block - kmtools.com/pr...
Some of my tools:
Router - amzn.to/39B8vj2
Trim router - amzn.to/3xdowUH
Pocket hole jig - amzn.to/3DxARVG
Woodpeckers stainless steel squares - www.woodpeck.c...
Cabinet Saw (Similar to mine) - amzn.to/43rz0P0
Jig Saw - amzn.to/3j0Eom8
Circular Saw - amzn.to/3v9Nrab
Brad point bits - amzn.to/3K6rnmK and amzn.to/3x7uAie
Right angle clamps - amzn.to/3uP9zX8
Router Template guide bushing: amzn.to/3DcHCOE
Round nose router bit: amzn.to/3AWTsty
Countersink drill bit - amzn.to/3UmxOs8
Flush trim bit (KM tools) - kmtools.com/co...
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
FWIW - I have a similar router table set-up on the wing of my tablesaw... I put a big red "FEED DIRECTION" sign and arrow pointing from right to left right on the front of the table, and on the fence. . It's way too easy to forget that if you're not using a router table daily. I go months between needing it and would no doubt have the same issue you had. You're lucky the broken bit didn't wind up somewhere in your body.
EDIT: One thing I would change immediately is the location of your magnetic switch. You want it on the same side you're normally standing on so you can bump it with your knee in an emergency. You'll have times where you need to keep BOTH hands on the workpiece to avoid a catastrophe, and will not be able to reach around the end of the box to get to the kill switch.
That’s a great idea, I might just do that!
Another commenter mentioned writing the feed direction on the router table. I like this idea, the only thing that might be confusing is whether you're doing an inside cut or an outside cut. Or, another way to think of it is if you're cutting on _this_ side of the bit or _that_ side. In the example at 2:50 you're cutting on _that_ side. It looks like the bit is spinning counter-clockwise (or anti-clockwise) meaning you need to move the workpiece to the right and/or clockwise. Making an inside circular cut makes things even trickier since you could touch the workpiece to the bit in any orientation plus you can slide or rotate the workpiece (or both).
Long story short this is a complicted maneuver and you need to take great care to understand how to approach it including where on the workpiece to first contact the bit and how/which way to move the workpiece. Note that during the successful attempt (2:29) you first slide, then rotate, then again slide the workpiece. Also note that on the failed attempt you contacted the workpiece at 1 o'clock and on the successful attempt you contacted it at 9 o'clock. My suggestion is to contact the workpiece at 6 o'clock and slide the workpiece rather than rotate it so it mimics a more familiar outside cut. When you rotate you have to release the workpiece to move your hands. It looks like you decided to slide the workpiece once you had it in the optimum position -- contacting the bit at appx 6 o'clock and your hands positioned most comfortably on the board (gippping the corners, hands spread as wide as possible for maximum control of the workpiece).
Making a mark for the contact point and a directional arrow on the workpiece could help (or at least rehearsing everything in your head beforehand). Another tip is to make contact first, hold the workpiece stable momentarily without sliding or rotating, then move it in the direction against the bit. Once you begin the cut everything should go smoothly as demonstrated in the successful cut.
It may not look like it but this is an aggressive bit if it catches the workpiece. I learned a lot by your mishap so thank you for sharing it.
I'm a total noob with routers but one useful tip i picked up for a regular plunge router is to make an L with your thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Point the thumb in toward the workpiece and cut in the direction of your forefinger. Works for both inside cuts and outside cuts.
Presumably the same rule would apply for a router table but using your left hand instead.
As i said, total noob here, so I'm open to correction.
Thank you for your honest tips, thankfully you ended up with no harm.
Also really liked how you showed your mishap. Great learning/reminder for us all.
The more pressing issue is the router machine itself being used for this home build. Tabletop routers require a minimum collet size of 1/2 inch (12mm), along with a matching larger shaft/stem router bit size. This is an absolute must, and a common mistake made in rookie home built tabletop routers builds. The issue is amplified when using tabletop routers to free float (no fence). Trimming items to size or shape while following a template using too smaller router bit shafts around 1/4 inch, that simply aren't strong enough to take the pressure solely on there own. Therefore just a matter of time before the bit breaks, just as yours did here - likely you got off lightly injury free. If you don't have a full sized 1/2" collet router... then to cut, trim or make the likes of round holes in thicker panels while using 1/4 inch (6-8mm) shaft router bits, should all be done using jigs (without trim bearing). And, cut in multiple passes and increasing the depth after each cut, until cut through, taking your time, not rushing apply too much pressure and load upon the machine or smaller bits. 1/4" tabletop routers are fine to use with a fence (not frea-foaming), again taking multiple smaller passes until to getting to your desired profile.
If you choose to use an incorrect router without the larger 12mm collet size under you tabletop... you Will eventually get caught out and likely be injured - proven by states, matched with my experience within the trade.
Also, Need Not point out the obvious, regarding feed direction cause you've already worked that out for yourself, lesson leant.
Stay safe, peace out ✌️
Thanks for the info
That particular router can take both quarter and half inch router bits, I will be using the half inch ones from now on 😆
Some interesting things in your build. A couple of suggestions: Use a hand saw when cutting narrow or short things....no need to use the mitre saw.... . The key thing I have found is that the dust extraction works much better when you have a high flow of air past the bit... so I use a 4" dust blast gate on one side to control the in flow of air. You may find you need to 'funnel' the dust onto your outlet at the bottom of the box otherwise it will sit in the corners etc.
Another option for your power cable issue is a rubber pass through grommet for a computer desk or a bung from the plumbing section. Cut an X if it doesn't exist, pass the cable through, glue or tape it shut.
An even cheaper but perhaps less "cool" option is to cut a notch at the top just wide enough for the cable so the gap is so small it doesn't really matter. Hot glue is a serviceable sealant.
Great series Thank You
One minor suggestion is seal and wax or apply high pressure laminate to the fence, making the work slide better.
I usually apply finish to my shop projects
That’s a great suggestion, I have noticed that is can stick a bit
Well done 👏 my friend, Well done 👏! Thanks for sharing your awesome design with us
Awesome series of videos mate. Ive been looking for a decent vid on a DIY router table and yours is the best I've seen. I'm going to give it a crack. I've got a bosch POF 1200E so just need to do a bit of research to find a compatible plate.
Like your background music, sounds like Justin Johnson.
Genius. Nice work
what did norm always say…? lucky that bit didn’t go right through those cool invisible safety glasses.
You fed it in the wrong direction, I've done that myself and my piece of stock stayed there spinning for a split second, it was a 1/2'' shank flush trim bit, and I bent the router shaft. Ruined a good router. Learned a good lesson though
Another great video. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for a long time, but I’ll upgrade to a SawStop first. My PowerMatic is “Ol Faithful”, but the risks are too great. Good job on the beard. SBG
Also a novice i have an arrow drawn on my table in the direction the bit spins.
I think that’s an excellent Idea and need to do that too 😀
Hi, just wondering about some of your equipment. Which is that handy yellowish quick-fence you are using at the start when you are cutting the plywood with your circular saw? Jarl
Thanks for the awesome series of videos. I've been looking for a decent router table video.
Where do you source your plywood from? I'm in Christchurch NZ and i only ever find construction grade ply. Cheers
Hey there, that is just construction grade plywood from Bunnings 😆
In the past I have got nice plywood from plytech which I recently saw that Scot Brown Carpentry uses in Nelson too
@@macsworkshop thanks
Great video series! I really enjoyed them. I'm also a kiwi in ChCh and have the same Triton router as you and would like to add a emergency kill swtich (and I'm an electrical noob). Can you please let me know what you used and where you go it from? Many thanks.
Thanks ☺️
I got the switch from here
www.topmaq.co.nz/10a-electromagnetic-switch-with-shroud-hck-5-elmi3300
@@macsworkshop Many thanks Kris, much appreciated.
I ended up asking an electrician how to wire it up because it wasn’t as straight forward as I am used to
Can you use the dust collection box with a shop vacuum? If so, what adaptations if any would need to be made?
I’m not 100% sure it would have enough power but if you wanted to try, you would just need to replace the bottom dust port with a small one that would fit your shop vac
Thanks, another nice clean project. I guess you moved the wood the wrong way. Not the problem, but the bit you used was very long for the job. There are some nice 7/8" diameter compression bits with 1-1/8" cut lengths too, with single and dual bearings, I think KM covers them. I know they are expensive, but I think it's worth completing the set and only using a bit as long as you need. The larger diameter means the cutting edges are coming in at a shallower angle and I think that helps, and the shorter wider shafts give more rigidity. I'm no expert at routing, but when routing something straight, I don't try to start at that front corner with a pattern bit. I start a few mm back and get the rest clean, then go back and do the front corner. My thinking is that's the place most likely to grab, and by routing the rest first I'm taking away material that the bit would run into if it does grab, limiting the consequences. Also I'd normally do a second pass anyway for the cleanest edge, so I'm losing nothing by starting a little in and then going back.
Thanks for the advice 😊
I am building a similar TS extension and I have the same Triton router as you. I've heard people say that the Triton directs chips and dust upwards making the under table box unnecessary. Do you have any opinion on that thinking?
I definitely get chips inside the vacuum box, so it is working to some degree but a lot also goes thru the outlet in the fence too so it’s hard to compare, but I figure the less chips and dust flying around the better so I still think it’s worth doing the bottom box
counter clockwise on outsides, clockwise on insides
2:49 hold your wood Nancy and that won't happen. Surely someone has already handled it but just in case. That's 100 percent why that bit took the board from you. You can't be limp with these things, they will hurt you. Still scared of mine but getting used to it everyday. Glad you ok.
What size is your workshop?
It’s about 4m x 5m
Your design does not support routing dado..