Hi I was wondering if you can help me with my nintendo switch it has been working but there's no screen so I was wondering if we can talk private and I can send it to you
and stupid not being used as a number...when not is just a word ,,,Not a number stupid mispronunciations...still like your videos though...long "live" Dave
So basically instead of buying a brand-new controller and just using it, you bought a broken one and a brand new one, spent a whole day on it to then also end up with one working controller.
Just a guess, but at 35:06 it looks like the resistor only fully connects to one of the pads. That would at least explain why it worked when you heated it up, because it had better contact due to thermal expansion
I don’t usually comment but when you replayed the loss of R64 I couldn’t stop laughing and had to comment. Your reaction to that was hilarious.The amount of time it took for you to find it and edit it must have been work!
That was pretty intense . I really enjoy the way you work Steve . Your sense of humor is infectious. Honestly it’s what keeps me coming back week after week . The repair part is an added bonus !
Hi Steve. You can't measure continuity with the charger plugged in. The multimeter will see the voltage, assume its from the other probe and read 0 ohms. You'll notice the beeps go on for longer than they should too because of this, that's how I usually end up realising I still have the board powered and have to go back and retest. I have spent more time than I would like to admit chasing false shorts because of this.
I had one Controller of that brand before on my workbench and failed all the way on my try to fix it. It is nice to see that you are able to fix the one you wanted to fix in the first place. I am sure you are able to repair the other one in the future. I enjoy ever new video of yours. Thanks for the content and keep up the good work
Steve, that was a nerve wracking video. I would have taken both of those controllers and threw them right in the trash about 15mins into the video! haha You have way more patience than me, thats for sure!
22:38 If you get a second soldering iron then you can remove the components by heating both ends simultaneously. That way you don't need to use the heat gun and risk blowing the components away.
Inspired by videos of yours, such as this epic, I wasn't phased when my son's Xbox controller had stick drift. Stand back son, said I, confidently. 15 minutes later as well as stick drift, the controller now had the issue that I had destroyed the wifi antenna connection to the daughter board. The scale of these things is miniscule. Without any microscope I can't even see the part i need to replace, let alone fix it! 😂 At least my son got a new series controller out of it
That was like watching a Greek tragedy. I really must congratulate you on your zen like calmness, I'd have been reaching for the claw hammer long before.
probably already figured out but. When a Multi-meter tries to measure continuity or Ohm's it does so by applying a TINY voltage and measure the tiny current or vise versa. If there is ANY voltage on the circuit you measure ZERO Ohm's. With some multi-meters you might even fry the meter or circuit.
The charge and discharge are managed by the protection circuit so you may be able to charge it but not discharge, or the opposite. You can always use some resistors to simulate a load, then check to make sure it still has the same (or close) voltage during discharge without dropping. So in this case you could use two 1/4 watt 82 ohm resistors in parallel to simulate a .100A load.
It might be that the blown off resistor that you put back is making a bad contact that only completes the circuit when slightly warmed up it expands a bit and actually touches. One of the solder joints on it didn't look super to me.
Hey Steve, my best guess for GU1L is the BD4958, a CMOS voltage detector from the BD49xxx series. If I am correct (which I still doubt) “GU” should be the SMD code for the SSOP5 package, whereas “1L” might be the lot number. Had I the pcb with me, I would check if the connections match with the typical application circuit shown in the ROHM datasheet. 😉
I had the same problem with charging!!! It turns out some chargers are not compatible with the controllers!!!. I've got about five chargers and only two work with the controllers and the rest work with everything else but not the controllers 😣🤔
I'm proud that you were able to trademark the big fat head in the way cam. I swore I thought someone would have beaten you to it :D Great teardown as always
Steve... who is sent broken things, fixes things, then breaks them to then fix what you broke in the first place then not actually fix the original problem 😆 Looking well Steve, enjoing the channel as always.
I can not stress this no matter how many times I comment on your channel - your perseverance is god-tier. My god, never lose that trait. Fantastic video.
I've been lmao this entire video... and NOT 'at you' ..... okay, maybe a few times your self deprecations has been hilarious, but you just really knew how to hit my funny bone today LOL :)
Damaged resistors cause the weirdest faults. I was thinking a small wire on each point (with solder mask) to a resistor not connected to the board out of the way would be another way to do it for beginners.
Just curious do you work with joey does tech it seems you both upload at the same time almost every time either way you are amazing and love tge videos you make me want to fix faulty items
Epic. Probably confusion on my part, but ensure there is no power on components you are testing for continuity (18:01 to 18:24) as you will get false readings and may damage your DVM.
Great job fixing the dead one and kiling the working one. 😂😂😂😂 Waiting for 2nd video fixing the ex working one. Wait.,now i'm confused. Which one was the working one or the dead one ? 🤯
Weird but this actually happen to me time ago when a hard drive fried 2 motherboards. When I check the hard drive was pushing a high voltage spike into the regulators, got able to fix them but need to wait 2 months for the chips regulators to arrive.
to my eye (not finished watching) in the first 5 minutes or so you trying to charge it, seemed like the light went green when you were pushing the charging cable in (because you were stabilising the amp meter thing)
Going green is caused glitching the charge circuit. 2.8 is too low for the battery and so the BMS has tripped 3.2 is the lowest a li-ion should be allowed to drop
If you don’t want components blow away turn your air down and put kapton tape over the small components you don’t want to blow away! You drive me nuts with the amount of air flow you use!
Steve must spend as much time on his " music " than he does on his repair attempts. I'm not saying which i like better though. Not kicking a good man while he's down 😁
Battery must have gone high impedance I reckon. This can happen when a battery is going into a dormant state. I reckon it pumped in more juice than expected 😮
Oh, forgot to add, please stop testing live naked boards while they're resting on metallic objects! That's surely going to confuse the issue or cause further damage
Stupid Wireless Controller(s)
ruclips.net/video/a5CgqQp992E/видео.html The R64 flew off and melted right in to the plastic of the battery connector ;)
Hi I was wondering if you can help me with my nintendo switch it has been working but there's no screen so I was wondering if we can talk private and I can send it to you
and stupid not being used as a number...when not is just a word ,,,Not a number stupid mispronunciations...still like your videos though...long "live" Dave
So basically instead of buying a brand-new controller and just using it, you bought a broken one and a brand new one, spent a whole day on it to then also end up with one working controller.
Reading the description, please don't be discouraged about longer videos. Even for easier fixes. More Steve is always welcome!
I agree!
yes more long Steve and Dave
Just a guess, but at 35:06 it looks like the resistor only fully connects to one of the pads. That would at least explain why it worked when you heated it up, because it had better contact due to thermal expansion
Exactly. Only one pad gets glossy and pulls the resistor in.
Yeah thought exactly the same!
@@Adrian_Finn - No you didn't.
I don’t usually comment but when you replayed the loss of R64 I couldn’t stop laughing and had to comment. Your reaction to that was hilarious.The amount of time it took for you to find it and edit it must have been work!
That was pretty intense . I really enjoy the way you work Steve . Your sense of humor is infectious. Honestly it’s what keeps me coming back week after week . The repair part is an added bonus !
Did anyone else shout out “No” when you bought a working one 😄😄
Your determination to get things working again is remarkable. Big fan, please do a revisit video, I’m sure you’ll be able to sort the fault!
Hi Steve. You can't measure continuity with the charger plugged in. The multimeter will see the voltage, assume its from the other probe and read 0 ohms. You'll notice the beeps go on for longer than they should too because of this, that's how I usually end up realising I still have the board powered and have to go back and retest. I have spent more time than I would like to admit chasing false shorts because of this.
I had one Controller of that brand before on my workbench and failed all the way on my try to fix it.
It is nice to see that you are able to fix the one you wanted to fix in the first place. I am sure you are able to repair the other one in the future.
I enjoy ever new video of yours. Thanks for the content and keep up the good work
Steve, that was a nerve wracking video. I would have taken both of those controllers and threw them right in the trash about 15mins into the video! haha You have way more patience than me, thats for sure!
Same.
22:38 If you get a second soldering iron then you can remove the components by heating both ends simultaneously. That way you don't need to use the heat gun and risk blowing the components away.
Inspired by videos of yours, such as this epic, I wasn't phased when my son's Xbox controller had stick drift. Stand back son, said I, confidently. 15 minutes later as well as stick drift, the controller now had the issue that I had destroyed the wifi antenna connection to the daughter board. The scale of these things is miniscule. Without any microscope I can't even see the part i need to replace, let alone fix it! 😂 At least my son got a new series controller out of it
That was like watching a Greek tragedy. I really must congratulate you on your zen like calmness, I'd have been reaching for the claw hammer long before.
One of my favourite videos now Steve, the sheer determination to get a result! Well done
Quite the roller-coaster of emotions on this one Steve.. 🤣 thanks for this SOLID episode
That R64 looks suspiciously on 35:10. Like it's soldered just to one pad.
Thats probably why heating help to charge at the end
probably already figured out but. When a Multi-meter tries to measure continuity or Ohm's it does so by applying a TINY voltage and measure the tiny current or vise versa. If there is ANY voltage on the circuit you measure ZERO Ohm's. With some multi-meters you might even fry the meter or circuit.
Amazing work. Love your videos!
The 2R2 i just watched you replace on the SSD with dock featured on this video too.
Always a pleasure to watch. You need to lower the air speed to prevent components from flying away.
The charge and discharge are managed by the protection circuit so you may be able to charge it but not discharge, or the opposite. You can always use some resistors to simulate a load, then check to make sure it still has the same (or close) voltage during discharge without dropping. So in this case you could use two 1/4 watt 82 ohm resistors in parallel to simulate a .100A load.
It might be that the blown off resistor that you put back is making a bad contact that only completes the circuit when slightly warmed up it expands a bit and actually touches. One of the solder joints on it didn't look super to me.
when that little resistor flew of, I was like OH NOOOOOOOOO
OH NOOOOOO
OH NOOO...
Great work Steve. You are a machine! They cant all be easy👍
Thanks Chris! This one tested me! 👍
I knew you would sing living on a prayer at the end. Awesome
This was pure entertainment! I love you Steve!
Love your videos, Steve! Please be super careful with LiPo batteries; my heart was in my mouth seeing that cell with bare wires flapping around!
You’re very thorough. Well done sir.
I think your airspeed is too high.
I find I can successfully de-solder at very low speeds with a higher temperature.
I especially like your perseverance with these repairs. Thanks for sharing. Regards
Hey Steve, my best guess for GU1L is the BD4958, a CMOS voltage detector from the BD49xxx series.
If I am correct (which I still doubt) “GU” should be the SMD code for the SSOP5 package, whereas “1L” might be the lot number.
Had I the pcb with me, I would check if the connections match with the typical application circuit shown in the ROHM datasheet. 😉
i was wondering what took you so long for another video. I understand now. Entertaininig though. Was worth the wait. Yet again soooliiiiddd work.
Absolute bloody rollercoaster!!
Very strange did you see if the cap was short on the second Bluetooth sub board ?
Thanks Steve 😊
I had the same problem with charging!!! It turns out some chargers are not compatible with the controllers!!!.
I've got about five chargers and only two work with the controllers and the rest work with everything else but not the controllers 😣🤔
I'm proud that you were able to trademark the big fat head in the way cam. I swore I thought someone would have beaten you to it :D
Great teardown as always
The definition of pissing into the 200 degree wind 😂
I was feeling for you Steve all the way can’t wait to see if fix the second one great video and well done 👍 😊
Hard work Steve, well done with the perseverance.
I have that same controller, good video as always
You literally fixed it until it was broken!! I’m impressed ❤❤
Great video. Your rap was on point. Excellent 😊
Do you ever get the new ones confused with the old ones? lol love watching
You lucky guy - blowing the resistors all over the place and then find it again. I never have so much luck. Congrats.
Although not successful for two pieces. It was a lot of effort and research. The most addicting to find the fault. Great video.
yay a long video from uncle steve about time
Walkin' down the road,I got stuck in the mud. There goes Bugs Bunny. There goes Elmer Fudd.
Steve... who is sent broken things, fixes things, then breaks them to then fix what you broke in the first place then not actually fix the original problem 😆 Looking well Steve, enjoing the channel as always.
I can not stress this no matter how many times I comment on your channel - your perseverance is god-tier. My god, never lose that trait. Fantastic video.
I’m not sure if it’s genius or just pure dumb poke and hope
And his patience.
WhyNotBoth.gif @@Mrflash222006
I've been lmao this entire video... and NOT 'at you' ..... okay, maybe a few times your self deprecations has been hilarious, but you just really knew how to hit my funny bone today LOL :)
A pleasure to watch as always, does anyone know of a service in the UK that takes in controllers to fix? I have a couple with stick drift.
Your vids are so cool.😊
Damaged resistors cause the weirdest faults. I was thinking a small wire on each point (with solder mask) to a resistor not connected to the board out of the way would be another way to do it for beginners.
Surely the charging current at 1.1 amps is too much for that 3.7 v battery.
Likely about 500 milliamps would be more suitable?
Top notch persistence!! 😂
Hey Steve,like your channel,keep it up
Just curious do you work with joey does tech it seems you both upload at the same time almost every time either way you are amazing and love tge videos you make me want to fix faulty items
Epic. Probably confusion on my part, but ensure there is no power on components you are testing for continuity (18:01 to 18:24) as you will get false readings and may damage your DVM.
i just having fun watching stezstix fix mess it up and melted plastic got me laughing alot LOL
im sure he come back and fix it later lol
ooooppphhhhh that was a journey! :) Not a fan of working on controllers - they often seem to be a pain!
Yeah, they can definitely be problematic! This one tested me quite a bit! 😬
This was more tense than some thrillers I’ve seen. Didn’t expect that when I started the video 😅
Awh Steve... I really felt your pain on this one. 🤗
Could you do a video on how you do the Raps please? They are very well put together, do you have a music background or play any instruments?
You're a wizard 🕺
Best descent into madness yet
The ol' "Switcharoo"
What is your music source?
Those tunes are sometimes stellar!
no cow pictures with the unsolder gun at 21:16? I am disappoint
Damn, you are a funny man Steve. Days since last melting something: 00 😂
Great job fixing the dead one and kiling the working one. 😂😂😂😂
Waiting for 2nd video fixing the ex working one.
Wait.,now i'm confused. Which one was the working one or the dead one ? 🤯
That was Epic, you had to work for that one, hats off to ya, I would have stotted them off the wall lol. 🎉
Wow, I felt the pain on that one (two)!🤕
One problem into two? Now you’re talking my kind of aptitude.
Weird but this actually happen to me time ago when a hard drive fried 2 motherboards. When I check the hard drive was pushing a high voltage spike into the regulators, got able to fix them but need to wait 2 months for the chips regulators to arrive.
This was the Greek epic literature of repair videos.
to my eye (not finished watching) in the first 5 minutes or so you trying to charge it, seemed like the light went green when you were pushing the charging cable in (because you were stabilising the amp meter thing)
awesome stuff steve . you make me LMAO THO .. big thumbs up
Going green is caused glitching the charge circuit. 2.8 is too low for the battery and so the BMS has tripped 3.2 is the lowest a li-ion should be allowed to drop
brilliant.. loved every minute .. stupid chips
They will make a film about this some day, mark walberg will play Steve
Very lucky indeed.
this stressed me out somethin fierce and i love it
If you don’t want components blow away turn your air down and put kapton tape over the small components you don’t want to blow away! You drive me nuts with the amount of air flow you use!
Steve must spend as much time on his " music " than he does on his repair attempts.
I'm not saying which i like better though.
Not kicking a good man while he's down 😁
What happened with the missing cap that was by the diagonal "we'll make it fit" resistor?
It's now optional in the new board revision
That's hands down the best beat ever on the show, can I get an ID please?
Maybe try a regular soldering iron, sometimes, instead of the hot air?
Eline sağlık. Birdahaki sefere ps4 dualshock tamiri de bekliyorum
Switch aproved pro controler,why no rumble motors?
Gonna be walking around for months saying "Here we go" in my lowest possible voice. Thanks for reminding me about that line lol
I have no idea why, but the flipping the numbers back to 0, then posturing and going “OPH” with a quick cut had me laughing.
Where did you get the book of resistors from?
Don’t do her dry like that, the last chip you heated, reflow it with some flux
I felt robbed of the lack of cow images popping on screen at 21:15 D:
At this point I am convinced you Troll us on purpose with not turning down the fucking airflow no matter how loud we are shouting at the screen.
At the start of the video there's a beep when you press the button on the top at about 0:25
Battery must have gone high impedance I reckon. This can happen when a battery is going into a dormant state. I reckon it pumped in more juice than expected 😮
🤘
Good to know I’m not the only one in this this type of situation
Oh, forgot to add, please stop testing live naked boards while they're resting on metallic objects! That's surely going to confuse the issue or cause further damage