Thanks for this video. A friend brought me one of these from his truck. Much like yours one of the capacitors (middle of the three) had exploded and shorted. It was blowing the fuse to the module. The board was beyond repair as it is a 3 layer board with traces in the center of the board layers. Several of these traces were destroyed. He was able to find a running replacement. I told him we should go ahead and replace all 5 capacitors in the used module. I believe they were 125 deg. 2 different values. We did the replacement and so far so good. I'd say in this case it's not a matter of "IF" these capacitors will blow, but "WHEN" they will blow. If I owned one I would get these parts changed. And no, I'm not in the business of working on automotive or consumers electronics. Just industrial electronic controls, VFDs, PLC etc..
You can delaminate the run on the board and fill it with epoxy after removing the charred material. Then do a pad repair. I'm sure there are a few board reconstruction videos on YT.
I have one in front of me now. These are muilti-layer board at least 3 layers. Yes normally remove carbon and clean and fill with epoxy. This one is toast as there are tiny traces and layered traces that are gone. The owner is going to buy and currently working board and have it recapped before it gets this bad.
The perforation on the top of the capacitor is supposed to pop when they go bad. Unfortunately I've seen too many just burn at the board like in your case. That sucks
Sometimes a regulator will pop the first cap nearest the regulator output voltage. But, simply replacing the cap will result in another blown cap. Seen it both ways.
Very helpful video for me. i had the same issue with my LLY, but the issue turned up in the harness. one of the pink wires was shorting to ground on the drivers side of the engine.
Don’t say never! I didn’t think I would be able to but I found a deal on a 2005 GMC 2500hd project. I paid $5800 and am now $7200 into it and it really needs nothing at this point. If you look hard enough, they are out there
Dang, that board might be literally toast! Like other's have said, add a bit of fresh high quality solder and flux to the pads to help the older solder flow. Also a high quality de-soldering braid like soder-wick will wick away the solder much better than those soldering suckers and also double as a heatsink to pull away excess heat fast to avoid lifting up the pads! Hopefully a replacement board isn't too much. I you pull one from a junk yard, might as well swap the caps while you're at it to prevent this. Good luck MrSubaru!
This looks like the exact same FICM that my dad's truck has. He also has a blown cap, but it's the one in the middle. Not very hopeful about the repeatability after seeing this, but I'll still pull off that burnt cap to have a look.
This *should* be salvageable with "some" effort. I've repaired damage like this on computer motherboards where a cap has exploded. In similar situations part of the damaged PCB may need to be removed (various methods like a Dremel, or CNC mill for the pros). The damaged PCB section can then be bypassed and the damaged traces rerouted via some solid core jumper wire. Side note: Get yourself a better solder sucker for the future! The "ENGINEER SS-02" is my personal go to, made in Japan, or just stick a little silicone tube on the end of your existing sucker and you'll get *much* better suction! Good luck, been following you for years for my Subaru needs.
Most computer motherboards are also multiple layers. You have to remove all of the damaged areas and ensure there are no shorts. You can then start bridging any damaged traces back together, this is more difficult across multiple layers but not impossible.
@@thejoshuahenry There's definitely shorts if the capacitor blew. These explode in spectacular fashion and nearly blow a hole in circuit board. Also, a schematic is not available so it would have to be reverse engineered. No one who does these rebuilds wants to try to fix one when the cap has exploded like this.
As mentioned already in the comments, you need some liquid or paste flux. I prefer the liquid because it's easier to clean up. Flux serves two purposes, one to clean the area and two to make the solder flow smooth. The PCB itself looks toasty though.
Mine will crank and run smooth for 3 or so minutes then go into tractor mode I scanned it and it says all of the fuel injector circuits are open except 2 i believe the Ficm is bad what do you believe
Good decision to toss it out. Dielectric break down with burning mark meaning high enough current has passed through and damaged other components already. Even if you successfully fix the trace, I wouldn’t trust the unit doing a safe job supplying fuel.
This FICM should be protected by 2 fuses. Allowing 25A for control circuits is way too much. Should have one fuse for the electronics and one for whatever is connected to the output of those MOSFETS. Of course then, they couldn't charge you $1700 bucks for a circuit board when a capacitor fails.
Hello, thanks for all the super helpful videos on subes (Best on RUclips for sure!). I have a code 45 from my AT oil temp flash. Hesitates on acceleration seldomly and stalls at stop sometimes. Can ask your opinion on the cause? Fluids good, not slippage when hesitating. 2001 Forester L. Thanks again!
I worry about my old subuarus with these kind of issues, everyone knows of the forester clock repair for bad soldering I imagine there computer type boxes are just as bad
@@LarryBlowers just getting into the Subaru scene. Liking what I'm seeing so far but haven't researched a ton yet. All manufacturers have their issues for sure. So far from what I'm seeing, Subaru stands out because their engineers seem to have had the mechanic/technician in mind more than the other manufacturers. I can only speak for the 2000ish to 2010ish Outbacks really but that's what I'm seeing anyway.
Maybe try a pick-a-part for a new to you board in the meantime? Around here, when a diesel comes in everyone jumps at it like vultures. Engine bay stripped clean in 2 days.
That's sad. Looks like this capacitors don't have vents on the top, but on the bottom. PCB has burned down through layers? Maybe try to clean it? PS always clean electrolyte from caps as good as possible
Great video, I just subscribed. Man I am worried about this happening to my ficm. I'm thinking about pulling mine out and replacing all of the capacitors, but I keep thinking of the old saying...If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Has anyone tried to do this with success before the ficm fails? Thanks!
Just curious did you get a lost communication with FICM code my fuse didn't blow Lost commn with FICM code mean , took terminals off and cleaned and replaced fuses cause they looked corroded and it started just not sure if FICM is bad
If it helps, I highly doubt the capacitor was the root cause of the burn. I spent a miserable 34yrs as an electronic tech and seen a lot. Capacitors never fail and burn the board. They may open circuit, short circuit, leak, explode. They fail, but not the way this board burned.
They leak acid and can eat the lays off the board, but not burn and I know for sure the burn is not blowing the fuse. Does the burnt capacitor check shorted between the leads? These kind of problems are generally a serious issue beyond the obvious.
Just curious where you can find a aftermarket ficm for an lly. I have been looking all over and cant find one for under $2900 i have already sent mine off to be repaired and they just sent it back to me saying it was unrepairable.
in the same boat :/ replaced the batteries with new ones started fine sat for a couple days started it, idled for 5 seconds and then died. injector codes and lost comm to ficm saw similar posts on forums.
@@MrSubaru1387 man that's kinda rough was thinking about trying this sia electronics see if I can get it any cheaper but thanks for making the vid just got another sub my friend
I can most likely repair that. Been a professional electronics service tech for longer than I care to admit. Get in touch if you're interested. Have a great day.
@@RedheadZ23 I've made a career of fixing the things that everyone else said couldn't be fixed. Just because they couldn't fix it, doesn't mean it can't be fixed.
Thanks for this video. A friend brought me one of these from his truck. Much like yours one of the capacitors (middle of the three) had exploded and shorted. It was blowing the fuse to the module. The board was beyond repair as it is a 3 layer board with traces in the center of the board layers. Several of these traces were destroyed. He was able to find a running replacement. I told him we should go ahead and replace all 5 capacitors in the used module. I believe they were 125 deg. 2 different values. We did the replacement and so far so good. I'd say in this case it's not a matter of "IF" these capacitors will blow, but "WHEN" they will blow. If I owned one I would get these parts changed. And no, I'm not in the business of working on automotive or consumers electronics. Just industrial electronic controls, VFDs, PLC etc..
You can delaminate the run on the board and fill it with epoxy after removing the charred material. Then do a pad repair.
I'm sure there are a few board reconstruction videos on YT.
I have one in front of me now. These are muilti-layer board at least 3 layers. Yes normally remove carbon and clean and fill with epoxy. This one is toast as there are tiny traces and layered traces that are gone. The owner is going to buy and currently working board and have it recapped before it gets this bad.
Nice glasses homes, keep up the awesome content, you're killing it cuz!
you can save de board, you have to remove the charred parts of the copper layers with until eliminating the short circuit.
The perforation on the top of the capacitor is supposed to pop when they go bad. Unfortunately I've seen too many just burn at the board like in your case. That sucks
Sometimes a regulator will pop the first cap nearest the regulator output voltage.
But, simply replacing the cap will result in another blown cap.
Seen it both ways.
Very helpful video for me. i had the same issue with my LLY, but the issue turned up in the harness. one of the pink wires was shorting to ground on the drivers side of the engine.
I don’t know y I’m watching this vid I’ll never be able to afford a duramax but thanks for vid Robert!
Don’t say never! I didn’t think I would be able to but I found a deal on a 2005 GMC 2500hd project. I paid $5800 and am now $7200 into it and it really needs nothing at this point. If you look hard enough, they are out there
@@carlsegerstrom3989 old adage says never say never so I’ll keep saving and looking!
Dang, that board might be literally toast!
Like other's have said, add a bit of fresh high quality solder and flux to the pads to help the older solder flow. Also a high quality de-soldering braid like soder-wick will wick away the solder much better than those soldering suckers and also double as a heatsink to pull away excess heat fast to avoid lifting up the pads!
Hopefully a replacement board isn't too much. I you pull one from a junk yard, might as well swap the caps while you're at it to prevent this. Good luck MrSubaru!
This was an LLY....a replacement is extremely expensive. They were running about 1-2k used
This looks like the exact same FICM that my dad's truck has. He also has a blown cap, but it's the one in the middle. Not very hopeful about the repeatability after seeing this, but I'll still pull off that burnt cap to have a look.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. At least you have 43 extra Subarus out in the yard!
This *should* be salvageable with "some" effort. I've repaired damage like this on computer motherboards where a cap has exploded. In similar situations part of the damaged PCB may need to be removed (various methods like a Dremel, or CNC mill for the pros). The damaged PCB section can then be bypassed and the damaged traces rerouted via some solid core jumper wire. Side note: Get yourself a better solder sucker for the future! The "ENGINEER SS-02" is my personal go to, made in Japan, or just stick a little silicone tube on the end of your existing sucker and you'll get *much* better suction! Good luck, been following you for years for my Subaru needs.
This is a multilayer board... When the cap blows it shorts out the multiple circuits in that area to each other. You can not fix this.
Most computer motherboards are also multiple layers. You have to remove all of the damaged areas and ensure there are no shorts. You can then start bridging any damaged traces back together, this is more difficult across multiple layers but not impossible.
@@thejoshuahenry There's definitely shorts if the capacitor blew. These explode in spectacular fashion and nearly blow a hole in circuit board. Also, a schematic is not available so it would have to be reverse engineered. No one who does these rebuilds wants to try to fix one when the cap has exploded like this.
Louis Rossmann has entered the chat
As mentioned already in the comments, you need some liquid or paste flux. I prefer the liquid because it's easier to clean up. Flux serves two purposes, one to clean the area and two to make the solder flow smooth. The PCB itself looks toasty though.
I posted a video just like this but you went further in depth of the process of taking it apart.
Did you fix yours or replace?
@@randystreet7668 replaced the FICM
I can't find one I'm not sure what to do next
Shame on you GM!
Mine will crank and run smooth for 3 or so minutes then go into tractor mode I scanned it and it says all of the fuel injector circuits are open except 2 i believe the Ficm is bad what do you believe
Good decision to toss it out. Dielectric break down with burning mark meaning high enough current has passed through and damaged other components already. Even if you successfully fix the trace, I wouldn’t trust the unit doing a safe job supplying fuel.
This FICM should be protected by 2 fuses. Allowing 25A for control circuits is way too much. Should have one fuse for the electronics and one for whatever is connected to the output of those MOSFETS. Of course then, they couldn't charge you $1700 bucks for a circuit board when a capacitor fails.
1700? Lol you can't find one for less than 2800 now
Hello, thanks for all the super helpful videos on subes (Best on RUclips for sure!). I have a code 45 from my AT oil temp flash. Hesitates on acceleration seldomly and stalls at stop sometimes. Can ask your opinion on the cause? Fluids good, not slippage when hesitating. 2001 Forester L. Thanks again!
Duramax 10 year PM: Disassemble FECUM, replace capacitors and protect board from grounding to frame.
I worry about my old subuarus with these kind of issues, everyone knows of the forester clock repair for bad soldering I imagine there computer type boxes are just as bad
@@LarryBlowers just getting into the Subaru scene. Liking what I'm seeing so far but haven't researched a ton yet. All manufacturers have their issues for sure. So far from what I'm seeing, Subaru stands out because their engineers seem to have had the mechanic/technician in mind more than the other manufacturers. I can only speak for the 2000ish to 2010ish Outbacks really but that's what I'm seeing anyway.
6.0 PowerStroke had that issue as well
That sucks.....sorry to hear and the carnage is bad.
Maybe try a pick-a-part for a new to you board in the meantime?
Around here, when a diesel comes in everyone jumps at it like vultures. Engine bay stripped clean in 2 days.
Yeah. Diesels don't even hit the junkyards here.
Any junk yard that gets an lly in knows what they have... The ficm comes off in about 10 seconds and is put in ebay for 2500 dollars
Wow nice diag!
Too bad there isn't a Denso replacement! Easy fix just JB weld it back on...
Wonder if this is my problem, randomly goes into limp mode throwing 2 and 8 injector but they already been ice picked….
Holly cow.. I never knew these goes bad..
Alex at Northridge fix could fix that module!!!!
That's sad. Looks like this capacitors don't have vents on the top, but on the bottom. PCB has burned down through layers? Maybe try to clean it?
PS always clean electrolyte from caps as good as possible
That's right I forgot they ran diesel fuel though the module to cool it...
On another unrelated issue, how often should I clean my maf and throttle body on 2018 forester? Thanks.
You suspect the Jump pack caused this......then what are you going to do in the future to avoid this when truck needs a jump?
Lloks like the seal they used was just butil headlight sealer lol.
Great video, I just subscribed. Man I am worried about this happening to my ficm. I'm thinking about pulling mine out and replacing all of the capacitors, but I keep thinking of the old saying...If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Has anyone tried to do this with success before the ficm fails?
Thanks!
I’m planning on sending mine in the capacitors are almost 20 years old at this point might as well replace them only 250
This just happened to mine, fried the board badly. If you have the opportunity to change them out, I'd do it now.
Just curious did you get a lost communication with FICM code my fuse didn't blow
Lost commn with FICM code mean , took terminals off and cleaned and replaced fuses cause they looked corroded and it started just not sure if FICM is bad
What happens if the fuse does not blow when plugging one at a time in
Wasn't the capacitor's fault! That is 100% a manufacturing defect. That capacitor prong shaould have never been able to contact the metal housing!
If it helps, I highly doubt the capacitor was the root cause of the burn. I spent a miserable 34yrs as an electronic tech and seen a lot. Capacitors never fail and burn the board. They may open circuit, short circuit, leak, explode. They fail, but not the way this board burned.
You don't think it leaked out the bottom?
They leak possibly
They leak acid and can eat the lays off the board, but not burn and I know for sure the burn is not blowing the fuse. Does the burnt capacitor check shorted between the leads? These kind of problems are generally a serious issue beyond the obvious.
How many miles was on this iam looking at an 05 with 121k miles
Just curious where you can find a aftermarket ficm for an lly. I have been looking all over and cant find one for under $2900 i have already sent mine off to be repaired and they just sent it back to me saying it was unrepairable.
There are none..
@@MrSubaru1387 SAME I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My reman. was 3320.00 last one i could fine
Did this throw an engine code to know the FICM was bad?
Now 3500 for a new one if kills for a $1000-1500 one
Don’t you know the flux capacitor needs 1.22 gigawatts ?!?!?!?
Where can you find one that pric
Is it possible to upgrade the capacitors on the lb7 ficm to compensate for the voltage difference on the lly injectors?
Maybe even put resistors inline of the injectorsto decrease voltage?
If you even find them at all, buy two and sell one to me. I cannot find them anywhere! My truck hasn't run since the end of July!
I found a junkyard one for $1000. I'm back rolling after over a month down.
@@MrSubaru1387 I have a contact at the local LKQ watching for one..
I have no blown fuse, but still won't start. Diagnosed as bad FICM by dealer.
But with the FICM harnesses plugged in, it will drain my batteries dead within 24 hours. Unplugged, they will hold a charge indefinitely.
in the same boat :/ replaced the batteries with new ones started fine sat for a couple days started it, idled for 5 seconds and then died. injector codes and lost comm to ficm saw similar posts on forums.
Need help mine is beyond repair looking a ficm lly
Any idea on how it blew in the first place?
Jump box is my hunch. Died after being jump started.
If you got a junk yard FiCM. Does it have 2 b programmed 2 ur vehicle
No
Did you have to have the new one programmed?
No
What's the update ever get it running just bought a truck at auction and this is my issue 😣
Yeah. Found a FICM used for a grand.
@@MrSubaru1387 man that's kinda rough was thinking about trying this sia electronics see if I can get it any cheaper but thanks for making the vid just got another sub my friend
I'm seeing them used, going for $2,800+ now...
@@MrSubaru1387 ohh no that's insane
@@MrSubaru1387 where can i find one?
Toasted oh yeah.
Bummer
I can most likely repair that. Been a professional electronics service tech for longer than I care to admit.
Get in touch if you're interested.
Have a great day.
could you really because i sent it in to get repaired and they said they couldnt.
@@RedheadZ23 I've made a career of fixing the things that everyone else said couldn't be fixed.
Just because they couldn't fix it, doesn't mean it can't be fixed.
Interesting would you like to repair mine
@@gatekeeper65 What value are the capacitors? My step son and I are going to attempt to repair his! Thanks!!!
She's just desperate to be a RUclips star. 🤣😂🤣
Should have bought a subaru lol jk
I don't have those problems, I don't buy GM!
Ford had the problem of caps blowing on many of their 90's vehicles. Just use caps with a higher volt rating, same uf.