The beauty of the internet and RUclips- it allows people from all over the world to get together and enjoy the artistic work of Richard and other content contributors. Thanks for sharing with us Richard.
Excellent video Richard - particularly useful for me was the star minimisation which I can see can be used to give a really clean image that is not too busy.
Another great, and helpful, video. If it were my photo, I think that I would quieten down the star reflection in the pond. The larger star reflection is distracting. But, that is just a personal observation.
I get noticed, that Richard has made a new video...! I click the link, I click Thunbs Up and Then sit back and Whatch...! Thank You Richard for all your work and insight in your workflow...!
Another great video Richard, I watched the milky way leave our hemisphere last month and thought of you greeting it coming to yours. Your videos are great for learning and you do a wonderful job with them.
Thanks Richard! Another cool trick I learned about star minimisation in Photoshop! I think you are right, it makes the Milky Way shot more appealing with less distractions! Well done! 😀👍
Thanks a lot Nash. It's not my original idea .. it's been around for a while. I'd also suggest being conservative with it as it will introduce artifacts if you go too heavy with it.
Love these Richard. Saved video until I could relax and enjoy. Noticed there was some jigsaw puzzle effect after stacking for panorama, then it disappeared after flattening. Keep them coming.
I love that your images are not overblown and look so natural. You are also too modest, you are the nightscape expert of Photoshop! Great video and thank you so much for the tutorial. I love the final image.
MATE!,I love your vids I soak like a sponge,thanks to your simple guidelines I got my first nighscape,selfie with ORION above,for my mum.200asa.f3.5.30sec. THANKS!...
Thanks to you and your tutorials, I finally got a shot that was half way decent to me. After sharing that photo on a few Facebook groups, several people wanted to know: "how did you do that?" and "where can i learn how to do that?" All I could do was send them here. Hopefully you pick up a few more subscribers from it!!! Thanks again for taking your time to share your knowledge with us... Cheers
Wow, you make it look so simple Richard, yet I know it isn’t. I have done a few successful panoramas myself, with the most recent one featuring a lone tree as my favourite. I am amazed to see how bright the Zodiacal Light is there, I noticed it straight away as you opened up the pictures. I was lucky enough to see a very similar ZL to that in South Africa one November, when around 2 hours after sunset the galactic plane was practically sitting along the horizon and ZL was shining through Sagittarius and high into the night sky. It was a pretty amazing sight to see the Milky Way so clear when it was so low down, but we were in Sutherland Northern Cape, which is home to the Southern African Observatory. It was great to see your amazing southern skies for the first time.I was even lucky enough last week to capture Zodiacal Light here in the UK, or in Wales to be exact, around 2 hours before dawn. It’s the first time i’ve seen it at this time, rather than after sunset, when I have seen it several times. By the way, I am honoured that you have subscribed to my channel. I learned a lot from you just by watching this video. Who knows, maybe you might learn a few tricks off me!
Hey Starman, thanks so much for the comments. I was very impressed by your recent meteor capture. I also noticed Alyn Wallace featured your image ... great job.
Another well presented and informative video Richard. Your level of passion in this field of photography is evidenced in your superb images. Well done.
Love your work mate, very clear on your explanations and tips! Hoping to work on my light painting over summer so I can be ready for MW season next year :D
@@nightscapeimages.richard I've in fact just signed up to get information for when your 2020 workshops become available, very interested in attending one :)
Yep like I always say about Richards ethos it's truly fantastic and very thoughtful of him to share his work flow, I for one have benefited from his work... Thanks bud your are a legend.. 🙏
One question about night panoramas. As we know the earth moves and between the first and last shot, the stars would of moved. Do you get any problems with seeing the same stars doubled up on the stitched image.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for sharing your techniques to help beginners like me start with a great basis of knowledge. I was amazed at your stacked image at 24:22 at the end of the video and was wondering if the 10,000 ISO was a typo? That image is one of my favorites of yours and was just wanting to know which settings you used. I am looking forward to this Milky Way "season" in the US and binge watching your videos keeps me inspired!
Thanks so much for your great support Nathan. Yes I did shoot this at 10,000 iso. The Nikon Z6 is very good at high iso and it is a very dark sky location. I don't often shoot that high as I don't really need to, but I often try different settings to experiment.
Hi Richard, So for the Pano, you took 8-9 shots at ISO6400, since you did not take multiple shots for stacking, how did you manage to reduce the noise so much. It is like taking 8 single exposures and combining them, where as had this not been a pano but just a landscape or portrait pic of milky way, you might have just taken 6-8 shots of milky way just to reduce the noise
Richard, an excellent video, a true recipe to process our photos, I will look for some such panorama in mu file to follow the steps you indicate. Thank you for sharing such interesting material. Greetings from Chile.
Hi Richard that was a fantastic video, I have been hoping you would do a video on editing a panorama. I want to give it a go soon. Your finished photo is awesome.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I enjoy watching your video. The longer they are the better, the more details you can put in helps people like myself learn. So thank you for your work and the effort you put in to making them..
Awesome work Richard, I have a question. I know you have remote shutter release, but dont you have to stay with the camera to do each image of the pano, or do you have a gizmo, to move the camera for you, so you dont have to keep running back to the camera while light painting?
Thanks Andy, Yes I use the remote shutter to actually release the camera and yes I do have to move the camera for each shot but I go off camera angle to light paint each exposure.
Fantastic work. Love the process, I must watch a few more times though to understand the process. I've captured a MW shot the other night that I did some light painting of a dead tree. I'll be processing it based on some of your ideas from previous videos. Keep your fingers crossed. But, even if it doesn't come out ok, i'll be able to say I've made the first stab at your style of light painting and I'll be off and running. Thanks for all you do!
Richard thanks for great video! In one of previous videos I asked about noise reduction in panoramas, and as I see here it is not applied. At 8:35 there are masks so there is no overlap. Also have you tried to edit sky reflection in the water as sky? I think the water may need same adjustments as sky. Cheers!
Thanks for your comments. I did add noise reduction in Lightroom at 6.05 in the video. I didn't want the water to have a reflection that wasn't there when I shot the image. There was a gentle breeze which stirred the water a bit. Not only that but as it took a while to shoot the total amount of images the water is moving even more collectively. I realise a lot of people make a mirror reflection of the milky way in the water but I didn't want to do that.
Absolutely a helpful tutorial. Thanks, man. And I want to know is there any possibility to stack a panoramic picture with each part longer shutter speed? Such as a minute or more. Cause there's no doubt that the longer you take, the more obvious movement of the milky way shows, which could affect the post processing.
Thanks for watching. People do stack each "panel" of the panorama but it will introduce more complications as you have indicated. You'd have to keep the total numbers as short as possible. Give it a try and see how you go.
Richard, I enjoy seeing where you go and how you chose the beautiful and sometimes bizarre foregrounds for your night shots. But, this is the video I have been waiting on and really look forward to the series. May I pose question I hope you may answer during the processing series? I have trouble with Sequator leaving blurred edges between the foreground and the sky. I have tried changing settings, but to no avail. Perhaps you can demonstrate what you do. Thanks for what you do AND how you do it...
Thanks so much for watching my videos Bruce, really appreciate that. I find with sequator that you have to get pretty close to the trees or whatever is in the foreground with the mask. This is not always easy as you can't zoom in close. I find it not too bad but there are some occasions when you see a streaking close to the edge of the mask. I'll cover sequator in a few videos coming up.
Thank Richard for another informative video. I am curious about what happens when light painting the different frames of the pano when one shot was illuminated much more than the overlapping frame. ie When photoshop blends the images do you possibly lose some of the lighting effects of particular frames. Thank you
Thanks for watching Alan, yes the images often overlap too much and that's when I use the layer masks to rub out parts of some images to only leave the lit parts I want.
Hello Richard! Some of your videos discuss how you shoot multi-row panos. Is there any difference in the post-processing stitching steps between a single-row and multi-row pano? Thanks!
Hi, very beautiful video and pictures, I have only a Samyang 14 2.8 and a Eos R, do you think it's too much wide for astropano? I'm worried about the stitching with the higher prospetctive distortion
Bonjour Richard! One quick question or two; How do you avoid the star trail between the shots you have taken for this panorama? I would imagine there is some trailing from first shot to the last one taken. Does Photoshop takes care of it when you merge all the photos in the panorama? Always very nice to see your video. I can't wait for the next one :-) Pierre
Really appreciate you watching Pierre. Yes photoshop or which ever software you use will take care of the movement .. it's a bit of a mystery to me how they do it but they do it very well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard What I think is that for example, 15 sec for each image x 3 then move to another roll 15 sec for each image x 3 ...... until 8 rolls. The position of milky way would have change a lot and it would be hard to stich in the program ?
Amazing. Thank you. !!! One question. In the final result, we cannot see the reflection of the stars in the lake. Is the reason that the water has some movements ? Again, thanks !!! Very motivational work and beautiful result👍
Thanks so much for watching Deivis. Yes considering the time between all the shots it only takes a very small amount of movement to blur the reflection. Really appreciate you watching.
Great video yet again Richard. Just wondering if you had any tripod / tripod head recommendations (for panoramas especially)? Proper panoramic heads seem very expensive, are these overkill for simple two or three row panoramas?
Thanks Dominic. Well there are lots of people using expensive pano heads but I'm not one of them. I've had good success using a simple ball head. I think it largely depends on whether you have subjects very close to the camera which will introduce parallax errors.
Thank you for this tutorial,, I'm shooting or trying to shoot at the Aurora's, and my thinking is that this method will work, because this is all most the same condition, and the ISO would be some part lower.
Yes you are absolutely right. Usually with auroras you'll be wanting to keep your shutter speed a bit faster as well because of the constant motion of the aurora.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I'm developing into Milky*Way photographing, but I'm not their jet. you can look at my profile,, gurushots.com/friggi57/photos But if you are not into Night Photographing, then you will not like what you will see...
Loving your channel Richard, doing a bit of a catchup on the back catalogue. I've had great results on my first attempts at stacking for noise reduction using Sequator as per some of your other videos. Just curious if you ever use stacking to reduce noise on the individual images making up a pano or is that overkill - would obviously add to the post-processing workload.
Great video, and I loved the time-lapse at the end! I'm definitely going to try the star minimalisation technique, as often sometimes my images just have too many stars in them, and tend to clutter the result. One question: if you were doing a two-rown panorama of say 16 shots (ie two rows of eight), would the workflow be the same, ie, you'd just select merge to panoarama as for the single row? I was thinking that a second row of shots makes the stitching a lot more complicated?
I use an apsc camera so I often have to stack shots for noise reduction. is it possible to do a pano with multiple exposures for stacking? Or is that too much time elapsed between shots?
You can certainly do it Clay, but as you say you'll have to speed up the entire process or you run the risk of getting star trails .. or worse still .. images that won't stitch. Give it a go and see how you do.
Hello my friend. Your videos are very useful, I like it very much. How do we get rid of the city lights at the bottom when processing photos of the Milky Way? How can we saturate just the nebulae in the Milky Way? How can we make nebulae more prominent? Do you have a plan to make a video about this?
Thanks so much for watching. Light pollution is always a big problem. To be honest, because I live in very dark sky location I haven't had a lot of issues dealing with it. If the light pollution isn't too bad I'll embrace it and use it as a silhouette to my foreground. Obviously if it's washing out the sky .. it's a problem. You can try light pollution filters but I don't have any experience using them. The other thing is that light pollution tends to overexpose the images and therefore you may need to lower your iso to shoot . .this will also make it harder to capture the fainter parts of the milky way. You can also use graduated filters in lightroom and photoshop to process the sky without affecting the lower foreground. Hope that's a little helpful.
Hi Richard, thanks for another great video. I am always amazed not only at your photography but your videography. Maybe a video on how you film all the b-roll stuff, particularly when alone ( or do you have someone helping in the background ? ). When you say 8 panels, do you mean 8x1 or 4x2 ? In the case of a double or multiple rowed pano, how do you adjust the elevation so the overlap is ok ? Most tripods have a scale for left to right but not up and down, so how do you estimate this ? Many thanks again for such super videos and content.
As always I appreciate your support and comments David. I do all the filming by myself and I will do a video on that one day. This is a single row pano .. 8 images in portrait orientation. I don't use any scales when moving the camera .. I guess but always ensure a lot of overlap.
Photo filters, star minimisation, levels adjustment.... l learn something new everytime as l didn't even know they existed!! 🤦♀️ Clearly l know very little when it comes to PS so l appreciate your taking the time to teach others. That zodiacal light just makes it doesn't it, awesome! When you add your filter does that also change the colour cast on your mirrored image on the water below?
Thanks a lot for watching again Leigh. There is always something new to learn .. !! Yes the filter will also change the water but in this instance I rubbed it out on the water and dam bank so it didn't affect it at all. I love the zodiacal light.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Ahhh yes now l see why l noticed it. Ok just one more question l'll keep it short lol! How do you light your foreground while taking a panorama with shots in quick succession?
@@Madieisacutie. I use a wireless remote shutter release which means I can be in position without running from the camera each shot. I still have to rotate the camera a bit but if I can line up the level then that becomes a quicker process also.
Did photoshop “transform” the individual images of the pano to account for the slight change in star location with respect to the foreground between individual frames?
A question: in your opinion, how close to the horizon, or at which elevation, does it become impractical to photograph the Milky Way. According to the bloke who wrote Photopills, the ideal elevation is between 20 and 30 degrees. Would you agree, Richard?
Well I'd expect the guy who wrote photopills to be a little more educated on the subject than me. I live at 37 degrees south latitude. I do know that the milky way is far more visible in the southern hemisphere than the northern, and it gets a lot higher in the sky down here. So it depends on how wide your lens is. That's the reason so many people use 14mm lenses on full frame cameras .. .to get more sky in. Other than that you need to shoot panoramas. This video doesn't show a multi row pano because at the time the milky way was fairly low to the ground and it wasn't necessary. I think it comes down to composition ... I like to place the milky way far enough above my foregrounds so that it's not blocked or too close to the ground. What I usually do if the milky way gets very low is to go for a longer focal length lens and take advantage of the lesser field of view and keep the composition balanced. I hope that all makes sense. Really appreciate you watching.
its always so dark where you shoot your photos.... here in germany i barely can do F2.0 15sec and iso1200 higher iso would result in a much too bright sky becouse of the lights all around in the citys :(
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
master piece
Thanks so much Ferry
Excellent work 😍
Thanks so much for watching.
Thank you so much Richard, awesome video!! Regards from Chile.
Really appreciate your kind words Marco. Thanks so much for watching.
Fabulous.. I really enjoy and appreciate these kind of videos. Thank you
Really appreciate you watching Gavin, thanks heaps.
Fantastic Richard!!!!
Really appreciate that Ryan, thanks mate.
Great image Richard. Thanks for sharing your art with us.
You're very welcome George, thanks for looking.
Excellent
Thanks again for watching Brian
You are the best Richard
Very kind of you to say Cliff. Thanks for watching.
Magic looking forward to the next one.....😊👍🏻
It's already under way James, thanks heaps for watching.
Wow! You just keep getting better and better. Thanks so much for all the great info.
Thanks very much for watching my friend.
This is awesome, Richard. Thank you for another great video.
Really appreciate you watching again Ivo
Cracking image Richard. I will have to try this at some stage in the near future. Thanks for the info on this ❤👍
You're very welcome Vivian
Bravissimo, grande scatto.
Thank you very much for watching
The beauty of the internet and RUclips- it allows people from all over the world to get together and enjoy the artistic work of Richard and other content contributors. Thanks for sharing with us Richard.
Really appreciate your comments my friend, thanks so much for watching.
Awesome, thank you so much!
Really appreciate you watching, hope it's helpful.
Richard, thanks for once again making a great tutorial. I look forward the rest.
Thanks so much for watching Steve, really appreciate it.
Great educational video ,looking forward for the rest in this series.thank you
You're very welcome Phillip, thanks for watching.
Excellent video Richard - particularly useful for me was the star minimisation which I can see can be used to give a really clean image that is not too busy.
Thanks a lot for watching Stephen. Yes I think it's a good thing to have when used sparingly as it will create artifacts when overused.
Another great, and helpful, video. If it were my photo, I think that I would quieten down the star reflection in the pond. The larger star reflection is distracting. But, that is just a personal observation.
Thanks so much for watching Les. I think you are spot on with the large star reflection in the water. Totally agree. Really appreciate your input.
Great catch mate and nice tip for the stars with colour range.
Thanks heaps for watching Mackymcd. It's been around for a while and I'd advise subtle adjustments with it.
Thanks again! Very informative. :D
Really pleased you like it Lynne, thanks for watching.
I get noticed, that Richard has made a new video...! I click the link, I click Thunbs Up and Then sit back and Whatch...! Thank You Richard for all your work and insight in your workflow...!
Really kind of you to comment Jakob. Thanks so much.
Youp as i thought ,another great one from you . Thanks for sharing .👍
You're welcome Orjan, I really do appreciate your support.
Another winner, Richard! Loving these tutorials, keep them coming, please. 👍
Thanks a lot Peter, plenty more in the pipeline.
Another great video Richard, I watched the milky way leave our hemisphere last month and thought of you greeting it coming to yours. Your videos are great for learning and you do a wonderful job with them.
Thanks so much John, really appreciate the comment.
Thanks Richard! Another cool trick I learned about star minimisation in Photoshop! I think you are right, it makes the Milky Way shot more appealing with less distractions! Well done! 😀👍
Thanks a lot Nash. It's not my original idea .. it's been around for a while. I'd also suggest being conservative with it as it will introduce artifacts if you go too heavy with it.
I love the timelapse at the end.. Good video
Thanks so much for watching.
Awaiting the next one......thanks
It won't be far away Spence .. thanks again.
Love these Richard. Saved video until I could relax and enjoy. Noticed there was some jigsaw puzzle effect after stacking for panorama, then it disappeared after flattening. Keep them coming.
Thanks a lot Bruce. Yes in photoshop you can see the joining lines until you flatten the image. It works very well.
Very helpful!
Thanks so much for watching.
Amazing video Richard keep up the good work.
Thanks Marius, really appreciate your comments.
Ripper mate … loved it !
Thanks so much Tim, I realise these tutorials are quite long so I hope everyone can hang in there.
@@nightscapeimages.richard They're great mate, I want to learn how to edit a bit in PS so it was perfect.
@@timrosenthal46 Thanks again Tim
Great vid, love seeing other peoples work flow. Awesome image too!
Really appreciate you watching mate, thanks heaps.
I love that your images are not overblown and look so natural. You are also too modest, you are the nightscape expert of Photoshop! Great video and thank you so much for the tutorial. I love the final image.
You're very kind Walter but I'm a realist and I know my limitations when it comes to photoshop ...!! Thanks again for watching.
Great editing tutorial and great final image. Thanks.👍
Thanks so much for the comment Richard.
Hi from Greece!We look forward for next episodes!!!👌🏻
Thanks a lot for watching my friend, really appreciated.
MATE!,I love your vids I soak like a sponge,thanks to your simple guidelines I got my first nighscape,selfie with ORION above,for my mum.200asa.f3.5.30sec.
THANKS!...
That's fantastic wullie G. Thanks so much for watching.
Very nice. Thank you, i learned a lot.
Thanks so much for watching Michael
Great stuff as usual!
Really appreciate you watching again Martin
Congratulations on another brilliant explanation of workflow from set up to final post-processed image. Thank you once again.
Thanks Brian, always very much appreciate your encouraging comments.
Another fantastic image and education in the editing process. I really enjoyed the content mixture, so that it wasn't just about the post editing.
Thanks very much my friend. Always appreciate your perspective.
Wow, I learn't so much from this video. Thank you !
You're very welcome Chris, I hope it's helpful.
Another great and informative video Richard and I hope to attend one of your workshops next year as well
Thanks so much for watching Steve, you'd be most welcome at a workshop in 2020. Appreciate the comment.
Love this series Richard. Thank you.
Thanks heaps again for watching Keith, really appreciate it.
Thanks to you and your tutorials, I finally got a shot that was half way decent to me. After sharing that photo on a few Facebook groups, several people wanted to know: "how did you do that?" and "where can i learn how to do that?" All I could do was send them here. Hopefully you pick up a few more subscribers from it!!! Thanks again for taking your time to share your knowledge with us... Cheers
I really do appreciate your support Bryan, thanks so much.
My 1rst star pic is thanks to.....
Hope tonight's clear?.
Wonderful
Wow, you make it look so simple Richard, yet I know it isn’t. I have done a few successful panoramas myself, with the most recent one featuring a lone tree as my favourite. I am amazed to see how bright the Zodiacal Light is there, I noticed it straight away as you opened up the pictures. I was lucky enough to see a very similar ZL to that in South Africa one November, when around 2 hours after sunset the galactic plane was practically sitting along the horizon and ZL was shining through Sagittarius and high into the night sky. It was a pretty amazing sight to see the Milky Way so clear when it was so low down, but we were in Sutherland Northern Cape, which is home to the Southern African Observatory. It was great to see your amazing southern skies for the first time.I was even lucky enough last week to capture Zodiacal Light here in the UK, or in Wales to be exact, around 2 hours before dawn. It’s the first time i’ve seen it at this time, rather than after sunset, when I have seen it several times.
By the way, I am honoured that you have subscribed to my channel. I learned a lot from you just by watching this video. Who knows, maybe you might learn a few tricks off me!
Hey Starman, thanks so much for the comments. I was very impressed by your recent meteor capture. I also noticed Alyn Wallace featured your image ... great job.
Thanks Richard. Yes, the meteor was pretty awesome to see. I’ve also bumped into Alyn a few times whilst out & about.
Another well presented and informative video Richard. Your level of passion in this field of photography is evidenced in your superb images. Well done.
Thanks for your comments Ted, I really appreciate you taking the time to watch my videos.
Love your work mate, very clear on your explanations and tips! Hoping to work on my light painting over summer so I can be ready for MW season next year :D
Thanks very much mate ... really appreciate you watching. Always happy to help.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I've in fact just signed up to get information for when your 2020 workshops become available, very interested in attending one :)
@@diskosteve Thanks Steve.
Very helpful thank you very much 👍🏻keep it up
Really pleased you like it Yammie, thanks for watching.
Like your editing style very much. Love to see more of this stuff. Great picture anyway!
Thanks heaps for watching again my friend.
Yep like I always say about Richards ethos it's truly fantastic and very thoughtful of him to share his work flow, I for one have benefited from his work... Thanks bud your are a legend.. 🙏
Many thanks indeed Royston, appreciate you watching as usual.
Thank you brother
Thanks for watching.
One question about night panoramas. As we know the earth moves and between the first and last shot, the stars would of moved. Do you get any problems with seeing the same stars doubled up on the stitched image.
Thanks for watching. I guess it could happen but it doesn't seem to be a problem at all. With most stars you wouldn't really even notice it.
Hi Richard, thank you so much for sharing your techniques to help beginners like me start with a great basis of knowledge. I was amazed at your stacked image at 24:22 at the end of the video and was wondering if the 10,000 ISO was a typo? That image is one of my favorites of yours and was just wanting to know which settings you used. I am looking forward to this Milky Way "season" in the US and binge watching your videos keeps me inspired!
Thanks so much for your great support Nathan. Yes I did shoot this at 10,000 iso. The Nikon Z6 is very good at high iso and it is a very dark sky location. I don't often shoot that high as I don't really need to, but I often try different settings to experiment.
Hi Richard, So for the Pano, you took 8-9 shots at ISO6400, since you did not take multiple shots for stacking, how did you manage to reduce the noise so much. It is like taking 8 single exposures and combining them, where as had this not been a pano but just a landscape or portrait pic of milky way, you might have just taken 6-8 shots of milky way just to reduce the noise
That is correct. I simply apply noise reduction to each image in Lightroom the same way I would for a single shot.
Bravo! Beautiful image captured, post processed by the master.
I'm really glad you like it Raymond, thank you.
Wow, Amazing and thank you so much for doing this.
Really appreciate you watching Cory .. I'm pleased you like it.
Richard, an excellent video, a true recipe to process our photos, I will look for some such panorama in mu file to follow the steps you indicate. Thank you for sharing such interesting material. Greetings from Chile.
Really pleased you like it Jorge. Thanks again for watching.
Namaste from India
Thanks very much for watching Sameer
Bravo 👏, great 👍!!!!!!! 🌊 ⭐️ 🌌 это великолепно, восхитительно !!!!!!! RUS
Really appreciate you watching again.
Hi Richard that was a fantastic video, I have been hoping you would do a video on editing a panorama. I want to give it a go soon. Your finished photo is awesome.
Really appreciate you watching Brad. I know it's a long video but there are so many details I wanted to point out .. you can't rush these things.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I enjoy watching your video. The longer they are the better, the more details you can put in helps people like myself learn. So thank you for your work and the effort you put in to making them..
Thanks Brad, I really do value your support mate.
Awesome work Richard, I have a question. I know you have remote shutter release, but dont you have to stay with the camera to do each image of the pano, or do you have a gizmo, to move the camera for you, so you dont have to keep running back to the camera while light painting?
Thanks Andy, Yes I use the remote shutter to actually release the camera and yes I do have to move the camera for each shot but I go off camera angle to light paint each exposure.
Thank you
I love the overall final image as the colours and granular content has that early Autochrome feel, with everything beautifully muted.
Great job !
Thanks so much for watching Gary, really appreciate your comments.
Fantastic work. Love the process, I must watch a few more times though to understand the process. I've captured a MW shot the other night that I did some light painting of a dead tree. I'll be processing it based on some of your ideas from previous videos. Keep your fingers crossed. But, even if it doesn't come out ok, i'll be able to say I've made the first stab at your style of light painting and I'll be off and running.
Thanks for all you do!
Good on you Bret. It's a long journey but a very enjoyable one .. remember Rome wasn't built in a day ..!!! Appreciate you watching.
Richard thanks for great video! In one of previous videos I asked about noise reduction in panoramas, and as I see here it is not applied. At 8:35 there are masks so there is no overlap. Also have you tried to edit sky reflection in the water as sky? I think the water may need same adjustments as sky. Cheers!
Thanks for your comments. I did add noise reduction in Lightroom at 6.05 in the video. I didn't want the water to have a reflection that wasn't there when I shot the image. There was a gentle breeze which stirred the water a bit. Not only that but as it took a while to shoot the total amount of images the water is moving even more collectively. I realise a lot of people make a mirror reflection of the milky way in the water but I didn't want to do that.
Wonder which drone you are using. The cinematic shots are superb.
Thanks very much for watching. I'm using the Mavic 2 pro
Richard, Thanks for sharing how you edit your images. I would love to see your process of time-lapse also.
Thanks very much Sean, I'll have to add that to the list.
Best greetings from Germany ;)
Thanks for your continued support my friend.
Absolutely a helpful tutorial. Thanks, man. And I want to know is there any possibility to stack a panoramic picture with each part longer shutter speed? Such as a minute or more. Cause there's no doubt that the longer you take, the more obvious movement of the milky way shows, which could affect the post processing.
Thanks for watching. People do stack each "panel" of the panorama but it will introduce more complications as you have indicated. You'd have to keep the total numbers as short as possible. Give it a try and see how you go.
Richard, I enjoy seeing where you go and how you chose the beautiful and sometimes bizarre foregrounds for your night shots. But, this is the video I have been waiting on and really look forward to the series. May I pose question I hope you may answer during the processing series? I have trouble with Sequator leaving blurred edges between the foreground and the sky. I have tried changing settings, but to no avail. Perhaps you can demonstrate what you do. Thanks for what you do AND how you do it...
Thanks so much for watching my videos Bruce, really appreciate that. I find with sequator that you have to get pretty close to the trees or whatever is in the foreground with the mask. This is not always easy as you can't zoom in close. I find it not too bad but there are some occasions when you see a streaking close to the edge of the mask. I'll cover sequator in a few videos coming up.
Thank Richard for another informative video. I am curious about what happens when light painting the different frames of the pano when one shot was illuminated much more than the overlapping frame. ie When photoshop blends the images do you possibly lose some of the lighting effects of particular frames. Thank you
Thanks for watching Alan, yes the images often overlap too much and that's when I use the layer masks to rub out parts of some images to only leave the lit parts I want.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard BTW Just ordered calendar - hope you still have stock
@@alanscott7591 I saw that. I'll be sending today. Really appreciate it.
Excellent introduction to shooting and editing Nightscape panoramas. Curious about the green patch in your sky..Could it be the Aurora australis?
Thanks so much Bryan, I think the green patch is airglow .. lots of it around here.
Thats awesome mate👌
Did you use any special gear like an L bracket or gear head for the pano or just a simple ball head?
Thanks again Keith. No I don't use any special gear .. just a simple ball head.
Hello Richard! Some of your videos discuss how you shoot multi-row panos. Is there any difference in the post-processing stitching steps between a single-row and multi-row pano? Thanks!
Hi Tom, thanks for watching. No the stitching process is exactly the same.
Hi, very beautiful video and pictures, I have only a Samyang 14 2.8 and a Eos R, do you think it's too much wide for astropano? I'm worried about the stitching with the higher prospetctive distortion
Thanks for watching. It's not the ideal lens for panoramas, but I would make sure you overlap a long way . .even as much as 75%
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you very much, I'll try... I've also a rokinon 12 f2 on fuji apsc, maybe the tighter fov may be better
@@rui-uh5ib That would be easier
Bonjour Richard! One quick question or two; How do you avoid the star trail between the shots you have taken for this panorama? I would imagine there is some trailing from first shot to the last one taken. Does Photoshop takes care of it when you merge all the photos in the panorama?
Always very nice to see your video. I can't wait for the next one :-)
Pierre
Really appreciate you watching Pierre. Yes photoshop or which ever software you use will take care of the movement .. it's a bit of a mystery to me how they do it but they do it very well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you Richard for your quick reply. Photoshop is a great tool :-). Have a nice nightscape!
When we do milky way panarama , it is impossible to do stacking for noise reduction, right?
You can do it but you have to take multiple shots of each frame before moving to the next one . .quite time consuming.
@@nightscapeimages.richard What I think is that for example, 15 sec for each image x 3 then move to another roll 15 sec for each image x 3 ...... until 8 rolls. The position of milky way would have change a lot and it would be hard to stich in the program ?
Amazing. Thank you. !!! One question. In the final result, we cannot see the reflection of the stars in the lake. Is the reason that the water has some movements ? Again, thanks !!! Very motivational work and beautiful result👍
Thanks so much for watching Deivis. Yes considering the time between all the shots it only takes a very small amount of movement to blur the reflection. Really appreciate you watching.
Great video yet again Richard. Just wondering if you had any tripod / tripod head recommendations (for panoramas especially)? Proper panoramic heads seem very expensive, are these overkill for simple two or three row panoramas?
Thanks Dominic. Well there are lots of people using expensive pano heads but I'm not one of them. I've had good success using a simple ball head. I think it largely depends on whether you have subjects very close to the camera which will introduce parallax errors.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for the tip. No point dropping $500+ if I don't have to, I'll give it a go with the ball head I've got.
Thank you for this tutorial,, I'm shooting or trying to shoot at the Aurora's, and my thinking is that this method will work, because this is all most the same condition, and the ISO would be some part lower.
Yes you are absolutely right. Usually with auroras you'll be wanting to keep your shutter speed a bit faster as well because of the constant motion of the aurora.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I'm developing into Milky*Way photographing, but I'm not their jet. you can look at my profile,, gurushots.com/friggi57/photos
But if you are not into Night Photographing, then you will not like what you will see...
Hi! Whose music you use in this video?
I use music from Epidemic sound in my videos. This track is called Bermuda by Ooyy.
Loving your channel Richard, doing a bit of a catchup on the back catalogue. I've had great results on my first attempts at stacking for noise reduction using Sequator as per some of your other videos. Just curious if you ever use stacking to reduce noise on the individual images making up a pano or is that overkill - would obviously add to the post-processing workload.
I'm really pleased you're getting something out of the videos Greg. Appreciate you watching.
Great video, and I loved the time-lapse at the end! I'm definitely going to try the star minimalisation technique, as often sometimes my images just have too many stars in them, and tend to clutter the result. One question: if you were doing a two-rown panorama of say 16 shots (ie two rows of eight), would the workflow be the same, ie, you'd just select merge to panoarama as for the single row? I was thinking that a second row of shots makes the stitching a lot more complicated?
Thanks again Simon. I shot the timelapse a little while ago at that spot. The star minimilisation is good but I'd advise using it sparingly.
I use an apsc camera so I often have to stack shots for noise reduction. is it possible to do a pano with multiple exposures for stacking? Or is that too much time elapsed between shots?
You can certainly do it Clay, but as you say you'll have to speed up the entire process or you run the risk of getting star trails .. or worse still .. images that won't stitch. Give it a go and see how you do.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks! The stitch is my concern. I'll try it and see.
Hello my friend. Your videos are very useful, I like it very much. How do we get rid of the city lights at the bottom when processing photos of the Milky Way? How can we saturate just the nebulae in the Milky Way? How can we make nebulae more prominent? Do you have a plan to make a video about this?
Thanks so much for watching. Light pollution is always a big problem. To be honest, because I live in very dark sky location I haven't had a lot of issues dealing with it. If the light pollution isn't too bad I'll embrace it and use it as a silhouette to my foreground. Obviously if it's washing out the sky .. it's a problem. You can try light pollution filters but I don't have any experience using them. The other thing is that light pollution tends to overexpose the images and therefore you may need to lower your iso to shoot . .this will also make it harder to capture the fainter parts of the milky way. You can also use graduated filters in lightroom and photoshop to process the sky without affecting the lower foreground. Hope that's a little helpful.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I am grateful for this nice answer my friend, thank you. I wish you good shots. God bless you.
@@thegodfather4713 Thank you very much
Hi Richard, thanks for another great video. I am always amazed not only at your photography but your videography. Maybe a video on how you film all the b-roll stuff, particularly when alone ( or do you have someone helping in the background ? ). When you say 8 panels, do you mean 8x1 or 4x2 ? In the case of a double or multiple rowed pano, how do you adjust the elevation so the overlap is ok ? Most tripods have a scale for left to right but not up and down, so how do you estimate this ? Many thanks again for such super videos and content.
As always I appreciate your support and comments David. I do all the filming by myself and I will do a video on that one day. This is a single row pano .. 8 images in portrait orientation. I don't use any scales when moving the camera .. I guess but always ensure a lot of overlap.
Photo filters, star minimisation, levels adjustment.... l learn something new everytime as l didn't even know they existed!! 🤦♀️ Clearly l know very little when it comes to PS so l appreciate your taking the time to teach others. That zodiacal light just makes it doesn't it, awesome! When you add your filter does that also change the colour cast on your mirrored image on the water below?
Thanks a lot for watching again Leigh. There is always something new to learn .. !! Yes the filter will also change the water but in this instance I rubbed it out on the water and dam bank so it didn't affect it at all. I love the zodiacal light.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Ahhh yes now l see why l noticed it. Ok just one more question l'll keep it short lol! How do you light your foreground while taking a panorama with shots in quick succession?
@@Madieisacutie. I use a wireless remote shutter release which means I can be in position without running from the camera each shot. I still have to rotate the camera a bit but if I can line up the level then that becomes a quicker process also.
Did photoshop “transform” the individual images of the pano to account for the slight change in star location with respect to the foreground between individual frames?
Yes it always does that to some degree Dave. That's how panorama stitching software works . .it's a bit beyond my simple mind .. but they work well.
Could you write some small pdf document something like Lightroom for Dummies for us who are new to this software? Thanks I really enjoy your videos!
Thanks a lot for watching Steban. Writing isn't so much my strength though.
A question: in your opinion, how close to the horizon, or at which elevation, does it become impractical to photograph the Milky Way. According to the bloke who
wrote Photopills, the ideal elevation is between 20 and 30 degrees. Would you agree, Richard?
Well I'd expect the guy who wrote photopills to be a little more educated on the subject than me. I live at 37 degrees south latitude. I do know that the milky way is far more visible in the southern hemisphere than the northern, and it gets a lot higher in the sky down here. So it depends on how wide your lens is. That's the reason so many people use 14mm lenses on full frame cameras .. .to get more sky in. Other than that you need to shoot panoramas. This video doesn't show a multi row pano because at the time the milky way was fairly low to the ground and it wasn't necessary. I think it comes down to composition ... I like to place the milky way far enough above my foregrounds so that it's not blocked or too close to the ground. What I usually do if the milky way gets very low is to go for a longer focal length lens and take advantage of the lesser field of view and keep the composition balanced. I hope that all makes sense. Really appreciate you watching.
its always so dark where you shoot your photos.... here in germany i barely can do F2.0 15sec and iso1200 higher iso would result in a much too bright sky becouse of the lights all around in the citys :(
Yes I am truly blessed with dark skies here.
Do you have a new car?
Yes I've had the Outback since August .. I like it.
Nightscape Images Cool. But I really liked the auxiliary Lights / front bumper on your old car. They looked cool.
@@joshua4302 I've got a very similar setup on this one also .. lots of kangaroos where I live so I need all the lights and protection I can get.