Thanks a bunch. Just got a 2072 Land pride rotary cutter and have never used a three point and the hitch that came with the tractor came without a manual and I've been looking around for this simple explanation and it took a while so I'm very grateful. God bless and thanks again.
I have a 3032 E John Deer I use it mainly for my arena drag for a horse arena. I have no knowledge of the proper way the 3 point hitch should work and just learned about the three holes.. Thank you! Now to my question .... The toppling twists, my arena drag is a lot lower in the back than I remember it to be. The area of the top point seems too long but I do not know if shortening the top point will fix the low tilt of my arena drag. PLEASE HELP :)
Wouldnt it make more sense to use the holes to make the toplink as parallel as possible to the lift arms, so you implement travels without tilting forwards or backwards through its motion? Then use the toplink length to adjust tilt? Itll keep same tilt through whole lift/lower, IF toplink is parallel to lift arms.
My Kubota manual is opposite, but your the second video I've watched that says it your way. My manual rarely recommends the top hole, only for a moldboard plow in light soil and even that says hole #1 or #2, disc plow, harrow, sub spoiler all #2 or #3 and then earthmover, scraper, rear carrier and mower all day #3. And before I look like a dub it has a picture of the back and the top hole is #1 and so on, with arrows can't mistake it. Just seems odd and I don't want to screw up a machine or attachment unnecessarily.
The holes are for sensitivity of the draft control. How aggressively it lifts you ground engaging tools from sinking into soft soil. Also Three point hitches have no down pressure other than the weight if the tool.
You should have a little locking bolt mine links like a triangle piece of metal threaded on to one side of the adjusting center link. And you tighten that to the link and keeps it from loosening like a double nut.
Your advice is exactly opposite of what Tractor Mike says in his video. He says the top two holes are for implements that need downward pressure- box blades, plow etc. The bottom hole is the least aggresive and is used where down pressure isn't required, like for brush hogs and mowers that are supported by the bottom links and their rear wheel. WTF?????
Well I guess tractor Mike is wrong about this one here is a link you can read up on it www.messicks.com/school/what-adjustments-can-you-make-to-your-three-p
Thanks a bunch. Just got a 2072 Land pride rotary cutter and have never used a three point and the hitch that came with the tractor came without a manual and I've been looking around for this simple explanation and it took a while so I'm very grateful. God bless and thanks again.
Hey you are welcome glad it helped you 😀 thanks for watching
I have a 3032 E John Deer I use it mainly for my arena drag for a horse arena. I have no knowledge of the proper way the 3 point hitch should work and just learned about the three holes.. Thank you! Now to my question .... The toppling twists, my arena drag is a lot lower in the back than I remember it to be. The area of the top point seems too long but I do not know if shortening the top point will fix the low tilt of my arena drag. PLEASE HELP :)
Wouldnt it make more sense to use the holes to make the toplink as parallel as possible to the lift arms, so you implement travels without tilting forwards or backwards through its motion? Then use the toplink length to adjust tilt? Itll keep same tilt through whole lift/lower, IF toplink is parallel to lift arms.
My Kubota manual is opposite, but your the second video I've watched that says it your way. My manual rarely recommends the top hole, only for a moldboard plow in light soil and even that says hole #1 or #2, disc plow, harrow, sub spoiler all #2 or #3 and then earthmover, scraper, rear carrier and mower all day #3. And before I look like a dub it has a picture of the back and the top hole is #1 and so on, with arrows can't mistake it. Just seems odd and I don't want to screw up a machine or attachment unnecessarily.
The holes are for sensitivity of the draft control. How aggressively it lifts you ground engaging tools from sinking into soft soil. Also Three point hitches have no down pressure other than the weight if the tool.
Where would you put it to carry a bale
The middle is fine for that. Thanks for the question.
Why does my toplink come loose (unthreaded) why using my sickle bar mower?
You should have a little locking bolt mine links like a triangle piece of metal threaded on to one side of the adjusting center link. And you tighten that to the link and keeps it from loosening like a double nut.
What about the center hole…
That is a neutral point. So if you are using the box blade and don't want it to dig down to deep then use the center hole. Thanks for the comment 👍
Your advice is exactly opposite of what Tractor Mike says in his video. He says the top two holes are for implements that need downward pressure- box blades, plow etc. The bottom hole is the least aggresive and is used where down pressure isn't required, like for brush hogs and mowers that are supported by the bottom links and their rear wheel. WTF?????
Well I guess tractor Mike is wrong about this one here is a link you can read up on it
www.messicks.com/school/what-adjustments-can-you-make-to-your-three-p