As a hobbyist engineer and tinkerer...I really, really, really love this channel. I only discovered it recently and now I can't stop watching. Great work Matt! I showed this to my Dad and now he's hooked on your channel as well!
Oh thank you. I really appreciate the feedback. My channel tends to be a it sporadic but I've had a fair bit of time lately!! Pls share with anyone who may appreciate my content 👍✌️
What a great series on D0! I’m printing a static version but want the head to move (will be for 501st events) so now I at least know how to ”stack” the servos… but everything else is alien to me… 😂 Great channel!
Well, I should have thought about what else is going on right now over there that might have just started production. No surprise you were canceled, just disappointed. I am shocked you saw this and replied! Brilliant work on the D-0. I love to see the engineering in progress, thanks for doing this build and sharing. Keep up the good work!
Great video as always Matt! Just one thing... The jumper on the LSS power board is only there to disable power to the last connector. This so that you can daisy chain the signal to another LSS power board, maybe running a different voltage. So if you just put the fuse where the jumper was, only that closest connector would be fused.
i know this is late, but the traction/highet problem, large rubber bands. You get better traction and it would be easier to adjust in highet to to terrain you wish to travel on. Just a thought. (what have you done to your lego 42028 :)
Do the Dynamixel's you're using use standarm PWM signals (from the Lynxmotion board)? Any I've played with in the past have used half-duplex TTL, so you can chain a bunch together. Edit: ah, I see later on you mention that. I'm thinking that Lynxmotion board will be great for traditional RC servos, but the Dynamixels not so much.
it looked really top heavy in cad but once you started handling the 3d printed parts you realize how light 3d printed parts are :D hopefully the rest of the stuff is'nt to heavy. can the arduino IDE handle the computer being connected to the internet with ethernet and to the arduino board on a separate wifi NIC? in that case that's a really convenient system :D
Yeah it’s not too too heavy at all.. there’s a lot of weight in the base!! As for the arduino I think it would handle that. However, you can have the arduino connect to your WiFi network as a client, but I prefer it as an access point so if I’m not at home or on another network I can always connect.
@@MattDenton That took some finding.... saw a video of your droid today on imgur. Some friendly soul linked to your YT videos, and here in the comments I finally see that you have a Thingiverse account - with all (well, most of) the data available. Thank you very much for releasing this into the public.
Matt I've just been through the schematic and data sheets for the driver board and there (at first glance) isn't anything with a VCC limit of 12v on there so not sure why you popped the last one.
Interesting. The arduino website says 12.6v max.. I’ll check the data sheet too.. I’ve been asked really careful about switching it on by the onboard switch but I really hope they are not that fussy.
@@MattDenton it may be your power supply. Switching supplies can overshoot substantially at turn on, quite a few of the more common ‘cheap’ bench power supplies will do this, especially these days of ‘soft’ power switches. If you have a scope with capture, you could check for overshoot, just be wary of scope max input voltage!
Quick question in regards to motor control. I currently own two VEX bag motors & typically they are used for FRC purposes, but I want them to work with arduino in an easy fashion. Is it possible to connect a bag motor @ a 200:1 reduction to one of those MKR motor shield. I'd like to make the setup very easy for myself.
Hi. I don’t know anything about a VEX bag motor.. but if it’s a brushed motor and will work at 6 to 12v at about 20watts or less then I would say you’re good
As a hobbyist engineer and tinkerer...I really, really, really love this channel. I only discovered it recently and now I can't stop watching. Great work Matt! I showed this to my Dad and now he's hooked on your channel as well!
Oh thank you. I really appreciate the feedback. My channel tends to be a it sporadic but I've had a fair bit of time lately!! Pls share with anyone who may appreciate my content 👍✌️
What a great series on D0! I’m printing a static version but want the head to move (will be for 501st events) so now I at least know how to ”stack” the servos… but everything else is alien to me… 😂 Great channel!
You expected another droid, but it was me! D-O!
😆
I expected a unused joke, but it was you, D-O!
Well, I should have thought about what else is going on right now over there that might have just started production. No surprise you were canceled, just disappointed. I am shocked you saw this and replied! Brilliant work on the D-0. I love to see the engineering in progress, thanks for doing this build and sharing. Keep up the good work!
Absolutely love this video and build! I actually have a model which is designed around a balancing wheel. Would love to make them a reality.
You are an inspiration.
Thank you for your effort.
Oh thanks 🙏
Great video as always Matt! Just one thing... The jumper on the LSS power board is only there to disable power to the last connector. This so that you can daisy chain the signal to another LSS power board, maybe running a different voltage. So if you just put the fuse where the jumper was, only that closest connector would be fused.
Got it 👍
Just move to Cali so I can see all this stuff in person!
👍👌
12:14 That is a very happy part!
I love how ur door barley fits lol
Narrow door 👍😆
Another awesome video. I also requested to join yours and Lee's FB group as I thought I already was but found out I wasn't
It’s brand new group so only opened it up today :) thanks for the feedback 👍
Nice Matt. Sent you guys a join request to see what I'm up against with this build. Looks grand so far. Cheers.
Thanks 🙏
See you on the FB page 👍
Very Good!
Absolute cool
Thanks 🙏
Cool project
Thanks 🙏
i know this is late, but the traction/highet problem, large rubber bands. You get better traction and it would be easier to adjust in highet to to terrain you wish to travel on. Just a thought. (what have you done to your lego 42028 :)
Thanks
KONO DIO DA
Do the Dynamixel's you're using use standarm PWM signals (from the Lynxmotion board)? Any I've played with in the past have used half-duplex TTL, so you can chain a bunch together.
Edit: ah, I see later on you mention that. I'm thinking that Lynxmotion board will be great for traditional RC servos, but the Dynamixels not so much.
Yeah the dynamixels are TTL which is why I like them. But the little LM board will do both.. I’ll explain more in my next video 👍
it looked really top heavy in cad but once you started handling the 3d printed parts you realize how light 3d printed parts are :D hopefully the rest of the stuff is'nt to heavy. can the arduino IDE handle the computer being connected to the internet with ethernet and to the arduino board on a separate wifi NIC? in that case that's a really convenient system :D
Yeah it’s not too too heavy at all.. there’s a lot of weight in the base!!
As for the arduino I think it would handle that. However, you can have the arduino connect to your WiFi network as a client, but I prefer it as an access point so if I’m not at home or on another network I can always connect.
@@MattDenton alright makes sense
Love it!!! :-)
Thanks muchly 👌
Love it. Will you eventually release your files?
Yes.. probably on my thingiverse account and the FB page
@@MattDenton Sweet, I look forward to that Sir.
@@MattDenton That took some finding.... saw a video of your droid today on imgur. Some friendly soul linked to your YT videos, and here in the comments I finally see that you have a Thingiverse account - with all (well, most of) the data available. Thank you very much for releasing this into the public.
Cool 👍there’s a FB page too.. link in description
ty been wanting to do this project and please were do i get the g codes for the printer
Thingiverse.. links in description
Matt I've just been through the schematic and data sheets for the driver board and there (at first glance) isn't anything with a VCC limit of 12v on there so not sure why you popped the last one.
Interesting. The arduino website says 12.6v max.. I’ll check the data sheet too.. I’ve been asked really careful about switching it on by the onboard switch but I really hope they are not that fussy.
@@MattDenton it may be your power supply. Switching supplies can overshoot substantially at turn on, quite a few of the more common ‘cheap’ bench power supplies will do this, especially these days of ‘soft’ power switches.
If you have a scope with capture, you could check for overshoot, just be wary of scope max input voltage!
Hello, do you have an idea of the total cost of your D-O maked droid ?
No not yet. There is a FB group though and costs will be posted there.. see description for link.
Quick question in regards to motor control. I currently own two VEX bag motors & typically they are used for FRC purposes, but I want them to work with arduino in an easy fashion. Is it possible to connect a bag motor @ a 200:1 reduction to one of those MKR motor shield. I'd like to make the setup very easy for myself.
Hi. I don’t know anything about a VEX bag motor.. but if it’s a brushed motor and will work at 6 to 12v at about 20watts or less then I would say you’re good
Any adwice from you about making my original droid based on Warframe moa?
I would like replicate this project, can you send me de file STL? thank you
Check the comments for the STL link
Gecsopod, please sceatch