Droid Build D-O - #3 - Mantis Hacks
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Facebook D-O Builders Page: / dobuilders
Part three in my D-0 droid build based on Michael Baddeley's CAD designs! D-O is the new droid on the block in the Star Wars universe and I thought it would be fun to build one. Michael already had a design available that he kindly sent to me, but I'm making a few tweaks of my own, including upgraded servos, drive system and electronics! I hope to have the droid finished before The Rise Of Skywalker is released! (Materials/Parts/Printers listed below) There will be more information on the accompanying facebook page that will be hosted by myself and Lee Toweresy: / dobuilders
You can support my projects by tipping, using affiliate links or buying my STL files:
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Bambu Lab Printers: shrsl.com/4e0j2
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Slice Engineering DISCOUNT Code: MATTD5
Or use this Link: www.sliceengin...
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PolyMaker Filament: us.polymaker.com?aff=661
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STL Files: www.threeding....
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www.paypal.me/m...
www.amazon.co....
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Find me on Social Media
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linktr.ee/mant...
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You can check out Mr Baddeley's original designs here:
/ 2152999025028674
And his Patreon Here: www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley
My Printer Setup:
2 x Lulzbot Taz6 Printer GET: amzn.to/2xkxpdR
1 x Lulzbot Mini 2 Printer GET: www.lulzbot.co...
Printer Accessories:
Flexystruder GET: amzn.to/2vRBPuK
MOARStruder GET: amzn.to/2geUok7
Dual Extruder V3 GET: amzn.to/2Ysj2CN
Mini Enclosure GET: amzn.to/2CKXSq5
HS+ Toolhead GET: amzn.to/2CHn6pf
HS Toolhead GET: amzn.to/2UevKWm
Materials used:
Polymaker Polylite PLA: 3dfilaprint.com
Grey GET: amzn.to/2r9Ocia
Green GET: amzn.to/2MMmnbT
White: GET: amzn.to/2PeCeS2
Polymaker PolyPlus PLA: polymaker.com/
Black GET: amzn.to/2BIjAu4
Polymaker PolyFlex Black/White: 3dfilaprint.com
Ninjatek cheetah green: 3dfilaprint.com
Parts Used So Far (will update during the series)
Arduino Parts:
MKR-W1010 GET: amzn.to/2paNzbi
MKR Proto Shield GET: amzn.to/3660Dza
MKR-IMU: store.arduino....
MKR Motor Shield: store.arduino....
Lynmotion Parts:
ST1 Servos:
rb1.shop/2qoOftQ
Power Hub:
www.robotshop....
32T Spur Gear:
www.robotshop....
32T Idler Gear:
www.robotshop....
Serial Cable 150mm:
www.robotshop....
Smart Servo Adapter Board:
www.robotshop....
Dynamixel:
XL-320 Servo
emanual.robotis...
robosavvy.com/...
Pololou
4mm Mounting Hub (M3) GET: amzn.to/2NbT80Z
500RPM 25D Motor With Encoder: www.pololu.com...
500RPM 25D Motor NO Encoder GET: amzn.to/2pToaCN
370RPM 25D MP Motor NO encoder GET: amzn.to/2KrId2I
MP Motor with encoder NO gearbox GET: amzn.to/35gE8Xp
6 V Hump Back Battery:
www.components...
Bearings:
25x32x4: simplybearings...
8x12x3.5: simplybearings...
4x11x4: simplybearings...
IGUS 8mm Hard Anodized Shaft:
www.igus.eu/pr...
Adafruit:
16Mb Sound FX With 2x2W Amp: www.adafruit.c...
RS:
2W Speaker: uk.rs-online.c...
Micro Cable Ties: uk.rs-online.c...
Spektrum:
Serial Receiver with telemetry GET: amzn.to/2KG7C9h
Low cost DSMX Receiver GET: amzn.to/2NQviJI
DX9 Transmitter: wheelspinmodel...
DSMX Receiver: wheelspinmodel...
or: wheelspinmodel...
Love the free animation addition. Looking forward to this. This is fabulous
Thanks
This is so fantastic! I cant begin to express how excited I feel watching him drive around now :D
Thanks 🙏
@@MattDenton How it turn left/right??
Wow. Very well done. I’m going to have to follow your build and make a D-0 and ever finish my R2
Thanks 🙏
Amazing thank you for always reading your comments and replying thank you so much plus try putting a fpv camera in the head that would be awesome
Thanks 👍
@@MattDenton could you please subscribe to DeAngelo RC I would be so happy and thankful and if you do please leave a comment on the boat video thanks one more thing it's a picture of a oneweel let me know
If I had that I would play with that all day
This is so amazing watching you build this little guy! I wish I had your technical knowledge.
Thank you 🙏
It would be super cool if you installed a camera sensor that had Ai vision of some sort. Doubt you’ll go that route but it would be interesting see how far you could go with this. Maybe even make it autonomous
Great work brother!
Thanks 🙏
Super cool project! Looking forward to the next video !
Thanks 🙏
Randomly dropped in. Cool project. I missed the video explaining how you pivot the body. Gyro? Or the two sides are independent? I'm assuming gyro because video preview contained a hint at a single rubberized sole.
Split sides...
Yeah, you can see it in the last video, after the midpoint. But the thin green section on either side of the central wheel bit are the actual drive wheels.
Just add a little weight in the front of the head to counter balance the electronics on the back
Could do, but really need to reduce the weight in the head so that I can get the turn speed up higher.. I quite often end up on one wheel in days turns.. or on the floor 😬
PDUs are so cool they really clean up the wiring in many applications :D
I would love that i would
loving this.. thanks Matt.
You’re welcome 👍
very good job, congrats
Thanks 🙏
That is so awesome!
Thanks 🙏
To get better 3D prints you could try to disable the retractions, when you only have one "island" to be printed. Or disable the retractions for layer changes, retract only when crossing boundaries.
You can also set the position where the layer change happens to an edge of your print, not near the 0/0 x/y position but at the end or at an edge of your model.
You could close the model and print it in spiral mode (vase mode) and cut out the opening later. Maybe that's better - maybe not ;-)
When you have at least two line thick walls and many holes or many "islands per layer", so you need retraction, you could set it to print the outside first, then the inside. In this way the retraction blob occurs at the inside and is invisible from the outside. Or you can let it move while retracting.
If you have a C or E shaped model, you could set the slicer to avoid crossing boundaries even if it needs to travel larger distances. I think I needed a factor of 200 to avoid crossing boundaries in a more or less C or E shaped model. Watch the preview closely or enable the display of the travel moves to see the difference before printing.
So there are many things you can do. Maybe you need to try different slicers if yours does not have the desired setting. Or you could use a different filament which prints nicer with less stringing and so on.
Additional info: I use the Simplify3D slicer, but it's rather expensive. Try to find the one or the other setting in your favourite slicer first. I switched to it as "Slic3r" could not print shallow inclines properly, when it's not at the top of the object. It made only one top layer there, so I got holes in it. But I think it improved since then. And Cura was back to just a handful settings, which was not enough for me.
I hope that secret guest is Henrik Svensson :)
🤷♂️
It could even be the original robot? ^^
It may just be my connection, but your audio isn't synced up with the video. Fascinating subject!
Fine for me
Oh ok... yeah I did check before posting ?
Weird.. where in the video
@@MattDenton From beginning to about 2:55
It’s his hands for me *_*
? 🤷♂️
Question about the dual pitch on the head. I haven't seen the movie, and probably won't until it comes on tv as a non-ppv/rental. How does the head work in the film? Does the platform try to stay level to the ground, basically making pitch 1, the height level of the head, and the actual head pitch the up/down tilt? Or do both work together in the film, as you've implemented in your build? Also how does yaw work on the droid, since you have wheel yaw position and a yaw position in the neck, do they work separately, simultaneously, or does it use something similar to the circular interpolation that the head's dual-pitch uses?
I'm also surprised there's no actual head roll, or side to side tilt. Knowing Disney, and knowing they made this to be a toy seller, you would think having head roll would be implemented for the droid to be more expressive.
How can he make such tight turns? I presume that the sides with the green are mainly touching
Yep 👍
That was awesome. Current hasbro d-0 droid has self-balance issues. Do you have any easy idea what we could do to fix those issues at home?
Rip out the electronics and start again :)
This a great and incredible work. I think I may undertake a similar project. I'm curious if your planning on possibly creating The D1 droid that appears in the latest star wars game. That would certainly be something
Thanks. I've not seen D1 yet.
@@MattDenton It goes by BD-1, sorry for the typo. Very neat design
AHH yes I know that... Maybe..
Nice work! Motors: It is always a balance between power and control. Did you print the head in Vase mode and then glue the neck support and other bits in?
Hi. No the head wasn’t printed in case mode, but was printed as a single layer extrusion. Which is why there is a scar on the outside where the neck support starts
@@MattDenton case mode and gluing the supports in might give a better surface finish? Perhaps with abs so you can chemically weld the supports won't acetone. Would also make smoothing easier for when you come to paint him. Amazing work though, jelaous if your skills.
Do a giveaway for the d-o
Nice build!
May I ask you what RC controller your are using? Is the 3 axis left stick standard?
It’s a DX-18 with modified 3 axis stick
How does he move his head left and right
Great work ! 👍🏼 witch radio model is that ? at 7:10 you use twisting stick, never seen it before! Thx!
Hi, it’s a modified Dx-18. Added the twist myself.
At 14:48 how did u attach the cover lid to the wheel? Magnets? Or push fit?
Magnets
This is so cool! What degree do you have? Just found out your chanel and this is so interesting.
Thanks. I did a 4 year apprenticeship in electronic and software engineering. I dropped out of my degree after one year to work in the film industry 😬
I'm surprised you are having problems with the motors. Are the encoders on the motor shafts or the gearbox shaft?
They are on the motor shafts.. the issue is that the high powered motors require a certain amount of power hits to get moving, and this have a minimum rotation speed. I spoke to Pololu about it and they agreed the HP version is tricky at slow speeds.
@@MattDenton A higher resolution encoder could help. I've used the AMS magnet type encoder (AS5040 etc) to get better control on a toy tank with similar motor (1024 cpr). A high speed control/pid loop (1kHz) also helps
Frank Tkalcevic yeah I may play around with them further. The encoders come mounted already at 48 PPR. I’ll play with the PID loop but the fact that the motors are difficult to back drive I doubt I’ll get much better.
Brother, can that stuff turn left or right accurately?
Yup 👍
Matt Denton so i can control it at maze?
Don’t see why not?
@@MattDenton ok thanks sir
Could you perhaps share the code which allowed you to upload code OTA to your MKR 1010. I just recieved mine and I am having major trouble getting it to work.
I’m sure it’s in the examples for WifiNina..
Or maybe I did a google search... but it is slightly different libraries for the 1010
@@MattDenton Yeh, I have been trying to getting WifiNina, Wifi101OTA and ArduinoOPA working with no luck. It seems the devs on github stated their current code is being reworked. Though, they did not specify when the NINA update would fully allow OTA.
It all working on mine. Have you updated the WiFi firmware on tour 1010 module?
@@MattDenton Yes, I have updated the wifinina firmware. to 1.2.4
How it turn left/right??
Watch the other videos 👍