2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500 Fi Clutch Removal
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Removal of clutch basket, plates and springs for replacement. Simple process with the correct tools. Turns out the plates were not in bad shape. Could have gotten by with just a diaphragm spring replacement.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm just replacing the clutch spring and also adding the Judge washers. So many people go to the trouble of making a video, but have terrible lighting and camera placement. Yours is the best produced I've come across. Nice job.
You sir are a very good mechanic. I use the same mechanical philosophy as you. Remove all parts in a certain order and reassemble just the same way and it is always good to have a video record of the repair task that you can fall back on in case something is forgotten. Bravo Zulu to you boss!!
Thank you for this video. I love my Vulcan Nomad FI
Had same problem mine was also slipping new clutch installed and did not fix it . It turned out the resivore not how u spell that but it had got some of that powder that forms on the outside of it had clogged the return port up . Cleaned it out and flushed lines all good now wish I had seen this sooner so you could have tried that but maybe you are rolling now. Great video
please explain more, what is the return port?
Its a little hole inside of the bowl on the clutch lever that holds the fluid.
Great video! I just did my '02 vn1500n clutch and it wasn't the clutch pads that were worn, it was the clutch spring. Replaced it with a Barnett spring and a 2005 two piece holder. It's like a brand new bike again.
Thanks for the video. My 02 Nomad has stock pipes. Is it right to assume that you didn't need to remove or loosen the rear cylinder pipe to remove the clutch casing? Could you briefly say what all bolts and other things needed removed in order to remove the clutch casing? Also, what was the torque setting you used when torqueing the main nut against the clutch spring diaphragm? Thanks for your reply.
nice video....doing same thing this coming week on my 2002 nomad....western North Carolina mountain roads last week did mine in
Don't know if you are still monitoring this video but a question. I did the Meanie Spring and judge washers. I saw in a 2 yr old reply that i may have put the steel plates backwards. rounded edge out. I wonder if it matters because while much better, the clutch still slips after a while? It was recommended that I not waste money on new plates. 14000 miles on the bike. I regret not replacing them while in there.
How many clutch plates and metal disks. The clutch has. ? Thanks
I can’t get that big bolt off. What’s that mean?
Awesome video!!!!!!! Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure!
I am working on a 2001 Vulcan 1500 and am worried about doing the springs among other things ..is there a video of a full tear down and rebuild?
I have the 96 Vulcan classic 1500 and they had a serious issue that Kawasaki refused to acknowledge. My plates have frozen twice and my bike is always serviced. I think they froze again yesterday but I just put it away. Wasn’t ready to deal with it again
Good video, my patina clutch, I will change, but it while cold gets the low clutch lever, have you seen this problem?
Good job
For the 27mm bolt do you turn left to loosen it?
Mine started slipping a little, I replaced and upgraded the spring. It is not hard to do, I had a dealer do it. The total cost was around $100.
Thanks Joe! Yes, after I got inside, I saw that I too could have gotten away with just a spring replacement. The teeth had worn around the spring retaining ring. My steel and frictions were still pretty good. Kept the steels and bought Barnett Spring. Harder pull but great performance!
I love Kawasaki but did not realize they put a plastic oil gear in 90 99 Vulcan Classic and Nomad EXCEPT the Drifter. The problem is the c clip isn't accesible without cracking the cases what a joke, as soon as you took off your clutch basket first thing my eye went to was the oil gear,
There is a process where you cut a hole up and to the right of the oil pump gear and from there you can access the clip to remove the outer oil pump shaft. Look up Judge oil gear replacement on RUclips. This eliminates having to split the engine case.
in what order did the push pin bearing and washer go back in
Right before closing it up. Last thing after tightening up the 27mm nut.
merci ! celà va beaucoup m,aider thanks a lot
at 2:30 when you pull that little rod out was there a washer and a spacer?
Yes there are actually the 3 that I mentioned in my first reply. They are installed like this: ()( with the open one being up against the big Barnett Spring. Make sense?
ok I might have those backwards but would that make that much difference??
Absolutely! Fine tolerances are involved in releasing those plates via the springs. Next big project, you may want to pick up a Clymer manual. They are very helpful with the pictures and fine details.
why did you think to replace it? I have vn1500A9 and my clatch works normally but at the and of lever movement- is it ok?
I changed it out because as I shifted the gears, I could hear and feel that the engine rpm was racing faster than the bike was accelerating as I opened the throttle.
As long as it's not creeping forward when the clutch in pulled, you're OK!
great vid thank you
were the sharp edges of the steel plates facing towards the engine or towards you
Towards me as I recall.
thanks that's the way i put mine in too
I am having problems with my clutch on a 1998 Vulcan 1500 in the beginning it was slipping and it got really bad really fast...first I tried to put in all new fluid in the lines but it still slipped so then I ordered a whole new set up ....I ordered barnette friction plates and 2.0 mm steel plates and a new curved spacer thingey...anyway when I put it back together I tried to pull the lever and it was super hard but I guessed it needed to run so I fired it up and went to put it in 1st and it jumper and died ...while I still had the clutch in...so basically its like the lever is doing nothing???? so I pulled the reservoir and the lever pulled super easy and I checked the rod and it seemed good but when I put it back on it was super hard again???did I put something back in the wrong spot??
Your plates are not free. They are gripping each other. Make sure that you put the big 27mm nut back on properly along with the 3 cone shaped washers under the new Barnett Spring. You must use the right grease to hold the 3 of them together in place as you tighten the nut. Sorry for the delayed response. Let me know if you already fixed it.
I guess I need to re-drain the oil and have another look at it but this time I am gonna record it so yall can see it
I think the problem is with the 3 cone shaped springs ...when ever I tighten the nut I can hear a pop or 2 and when I pull it back off it seems as tho they reverse their direction....so they were like this )()... but then they change like this (() ... or ever like this (((... and the edges look like they got pinched maybe when I tightened them.. ant ideas??
Two possibilities come to mind. 1. How tight are you torquing it? 108lbs is recommended. 2. You may need new torque limiter springs because you have most likely destroyed the metal integrity.
I am tightening it to 108 but I am thinking it could be the limiter...
How many clutch disks and metal plates the clutch has?
it has 7 clutches and 7 metal disks!! 3 spring limiters and one clutch spring!! just changed mine 2003 kawasaki nomad 1500