2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Clutch repair Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 2 дек 2024
- I created this video with the RUclips Video Editor ( / editor )
New / Used replacement parts used
Barnett Diaphragm Clutch Spring (502-00-01025 )
Removed Holder Clutch Spring (13091-1494)
Replaced it with Holder (13280-1307) and Holder (13280-1306)
Look to ebay for used to save money
Great video David! I bought my 99 1500 Vulcan Drifter New, at around 22,000 miles the clutch started slipping so I put in a new Clutch Spring and problem solved, now at 45,000 the same scenario and the same fix. Did not do the Holder upgrade but I will at 67,000 miles. Keep the informed videos coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just wanted to say thank you for putting this up. I replaced the clutch on my 2000 Vulcan Classic FI yesterday with Barnett plates and the Barnett spring you recommended and my bike feels and handles better than before I bought her! Much respect.
so this will work on a y2k, nice, i'm bout to get into this myself... this sure is super informative!
Iknow this is an old vid, but if your looking at it for advice, one thing I think he missed was staggering that last clutch plate, when he took it off that last plate was staggered from the other plates, still a good vid.
THANK YOU Its very hard to find anything on the 1500 Vulcan I am glad I found this. You saved me alot of money.
With all respect, I belive the last friction plate was not put on correctly. It goes on the shorter groove. You can compare it to the original one at the begining of this video, or by reffering to the service manual. All the best
I saw the same
this was really helpful, David. Thanks for showing this. I watched a few videos on the process, but I was able to get my new clutch done properly after watching your video. Thanks
57k miles on an 03 and just replacing the spring fixed it i ended up at your video cuz im currently looking at a used 05 1500 listing seller is saying clutch need work its listed for cheap maybe if i can get it for few hundreds bucks it'd be a little project i never worked on motorcycles clutches but always motivated to get my hands greasy
Last friction plate was not in the right place!
I have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic and this helped a ton, thanks a lot!
are you sure u put last plate on correctly. I thought it was one slot past the ones you put on?
Very nice video, will be using your advice and video to attempt changing out my spring. Only 44k on bike so hopefully plates are still good. Live in Mexico so may take awhile to get parts. Nice of you to answer questions people have,Thanks
Outstanding video, greatly appreciate that you have taken the time to help others. Very thorough
I put the Mean streak spring in mine with the Judge washers. My plates looked good. After about 500 miles, it's just starting to slip again. Typical for me, I'll be doing the repair again, this time replacing the plates.
Super vidéo et surtout la music en fond un régal quel est la radio, Pink Floyd the best of the best 👍👍👍👍
I didn't know about that slip. I just got a 2000 kawasaki vulcan 1500 classic. I traded a little suv to my brother because this was all he had and its winter. With that said I knew nothing about this bikes friends have HDs or rockets this modern Japanese V twin is all new to me. Well I had one good day before snow so I had to ride it was in the 50s but sunny and felt good the bike started right up but takes some time heating up. It needs some carb work you don't notice it all the time but I was heading to the gas station and backed off it pulled the clutch to shift and she popped and died I tried push start as I was rolling good speed and started heading down hill and it just felt like band slip I wasn't sure why thought something broke how it died but now I know about the slip thanks for the videos. I'm looking in to things I can do for mods as it needs some TLC odometer says 25k which I hear for a 2000 is low she looks clean for the most part I think had a rough last few months as she drove across country and back maybe 2 or 3 times since August 2020
Cool, I have around 75k on my bike,, still running strong
@@mobilmontana this one has 25k I had it running yesterday we had a little bit of sunshine 🌞so my girl and I road around the neighborhood really quick. I don't know its because it's so cold out but I notice oil starting to leak from the top of the heads. If I had a warm garage I wouldn't mind taking this time to go through and fix things up need read brakes and the boot on the shaft needs replaced there a crack or hole in the time. I also would like to clean the carb and change the exhaust system. Do you have any recommendations things I should to first or keep an eye on I'm planning ahead on taking a ride this summer. I know that my brother didn't have it long yet he did a good amount or driving across country a few times and didn't really service it.
@@hotboy197988 IF it were me I would change brake and clutch fluid with fresh,,, Change out antifreeze,, Change lube in rear gear box,, make sure you have good tires, tread and no dry rot and the oil leak,,, Have a good riding season this summer then next winter I would think about fork seals and repacking bearings in steering while your doing forks,,,, Get all the maintenance stuff caught up and all youll have to do is change oil for the next 3, 4 years
@@mobilmontana well I've did oil change when I first got it out this spring used Kawasaki's full synthetic. noticed a difference in response think the lifters with the oil that was in it wasn't building good enough pressure. Did both tires and different rear rim found it had a flat spot. After around 1500 miles I did a 2nd oil change just to seen how the screen looked as I found bunch on gunk in the first oil change. It did have maybe 2 little bit of metal. I think it could be the bevel bearing. I've changed the coolant at the second oil change, plugs and air filter. Just hit 30k added Is Vance & Hines true duels And nomad bad hard bags cleaned the carb had to replace Is accelerator pump diafram going to rebuild the carb just need the slide and Diafram have new back off diafram also to install. The last few hundred miles I noticed the ride started feeling worse believe it's the bearings going to replace front and rear to the Forks and bevel bearing. This winter plane to pull the motor and go through it also upgraded the timing chain tensioners. How did the Clutch turn out with that spring I'm planning on going with Barnett clutch and spring. I notice when both me and my girl are on the bike that sometimes it feels like the clutch is starting to slip I don't really feel it as much when it's just me why I believe it's starting to slip. I'm excited about wanting to upgrade things starting to come along yet when it was done so I can just ride lol.
what is the part number for the washer you added from the 2005? the one that fits into the diaphram spring?
I just replaced plates and went with the Barrett spring as well as the updated spring holder. However, now I cannot depress the clutch lever. Is this a related or separate issue? Thanks in advance.
thanks for the video and the pink Floyd playing in the background
Does the big cover that goes over the plates with the snap ring just sit in the I have mine in with the smaller peice and ring in and it can still come off in my hand
Hey man, I am working on my 2000 vulcan 1500, and I was wondering what the friction plate thickness was. To see if I need to replace them or if they are good.
What does slipping mean? I just changed the oil on my 07 Vulcan 1600 nomad and It seems to be a little hard it get into first gear.
Does anyone know if turning the clutch basket clockwise a little bit will cause issues? It turned the other gears a little bit. I'm not sure if I messed up timing or anything like that
Понимаю что поздно, но почитал и понял, никого не смутило что диски набраны не правильно. Последний диск должен стоять не так, там для него другие зубцы есть
Вы правы, я починил, но не снимал ,,, Хороший улов
Great video and good tunes!
Let's try this again my spell check sucks. The washer thing that goes behind the pressure spring. The one that has the grooves in it to keep it from spinning and getting that wear on it. I can find the pressure spring but the part that goes behind it that you replaced that keeps it from spinning cuz it goes into the grooves.don't know what it's called and can't find it anywhere could you please tell me what that is called so I can order one. As I have the same problem as you the pressure Fleischer is or just like yours and I would like to put that piece behind there to keep that from spinning any longer don't know why they didn't put one of those in from the factory LOL please help....
Where did you end up buying the little washer with teeth on it ?
Always use Motorcycle Oil conventional oils most always have friction modifiers in them and that can cause your clutch to slip.
Great point
Rotella diesel 15w-40 made my 400ex clutch stop slipping and valve chatter went away as well
After changing my clutches why wont my clutch pump up?
Wish I found these videos a year ago.
Will all this work for a 1996 1500 classic?
Hi there, part number for washer for the new diaphragm. The one that fills in the groves and leaves no gap?
Old part number was
HOLDER,CLUTCH SPRING
13091-1494
Two New part numbers to replace the one old part
HOLDER
13280-1307
And
HOLDER
13280-1306
Hi Dave, thanks for good oil on the 2005 cassellated 'washer' supporting the rim of the main spring. In the vid you refer the new 'spacer'. Can you please describe the difference (if there be any) between the old 'spacer' and the 'new' spacer used with the cassellated 'washer' ?
The new part is two piece, there is like a washer with teeth on it that fit the spring washer teeth, where the original spacer is one piece and allows ware on the spring washer teeth where it meets the spacer, Sorry I cant describe it better, I show both in my video, look around 8:20
I couldn’t get the cover on because the push rod with the barrings so I relieved the pressure with bleed screw and it worked. Only problem now the clutch won’t engage at all. I bleed the lines but still nothing
Even with air in the system the clutch should be engaged, sounds like outer cover on clutch may be one groove off, on mine the cover that goes on after the clutch plates has grooves to go over the splines, not all the grooves are deep, may need to clock ( Rotate ) that cover one groove
@@mobilmontana yes, the last friction plate goes on a different notch, i figured that one out after i took it apart again. i also found out that the metal plates are suppose to go on all grove in or all grove out but not different. The trick to putting in the springs in is with grease so they will stick together when putting them in. Great video but for back yard mechanics like me a video on putting back together would be good. Thank you for getting back to me!
First off, thanks for a great video. The reason I'm watching is I got ready to take my 1600 Vulcan Classic out for a ride, went to put it in gear and I have no clutch. Will this same spring work on a 1600 classic?
Will this work for a 1997 1500d
What is the part number on the 05 part and slotted washer?
Wondering the same
Great video David, I have a 1999 nomad will the spring holder(13280-1306)work with my clutch?
Your video was very helpful, but I have one question, the shop I bought the clutch plates said I had to measure all the friction plates and steel plates together and they had to be a certain measurement, but I cant seem to find out anything to support measuring al the new plates together. Do you know what he is talking about?
What they are talking about is the spring washer or whatever you call it only springs back and forth a certain amount, so if the measurement of total thickness is to small the spring washer won't apply enough pressure and clutch will slip ( as worn out friction and metal plates would do as will a weak spring ) too thick the spring washer won't release enough and clutch won't release,, My experience the metal plates wear little and in my case neither did fiber plates, I bought new fiber plates, measured with calipers them stacked all together, measured entire stack together and realized my fiber plates were not worn out,. Replaced my spring with aftermarket but clutch lever a little stiff, If I do it again probably go back to a stock,, if you think you need fiber plates I still have full set of OEM I could make you a deal on,, My guess is your spring is week and replacing it is all you need,, Probably find measurement, ware limit in relate manual
Clutch. Was the bike in gear to change, or was it left in neutral , ????? Doing the clutch in the morning, watch your video, you didn’t mention it, book says put in gear, watched a few videos, no mention of putting it in gear, please help, thx in advance.
Neutral Good luck
any more slipping after you replaced the spring?
No, pulled my trailer around the Smoky Mountains this summer and a trip to Charlotte NC from Chattanooga TN area, No slipping
chester coleman awesome!!!
What is that part number for the washer with teeth that goes into the spring holder? Im looking for it.
Planning to do the same thing to my motorcycle I have a 2001 Vulcan Nomad 1500 will these parts fit my bike also? The two holders I mean
2001 and my 2003 are the same,, Parts I used were from a 2005
@@mobilmontana I got it done I ordered the same Parts you did they worked on my 2001 ended up breaking the clutch lever trying to pump it up but I got a new one on there since working fine had to space the clutch lever out a little bit away from the grip to make it easier to pull and hold I appreciate the information you put on RUclips thanks
Did you also replace the torque limiter springs?
Just clutch spring ,, Part number 92144-1934 ,, didn't even use the new clutch disks i bought
This is a long shot but I have 1 2003 mean streak that I changed my clutch on. And once reassembled my clutch moves out but doesn't go back in by itself. I've took it apart and still can't figure out why its doing this, worked fine before. Any advice?
See if it goes back in when you loosen bleeder valve on slave cylinder , under chrome cover on other side
@@mobilmontana not unless I push it in, it was working fine before. I'm just stuck now smh
@@mobilmontana i just noticed that the clutch spring is not sitting flush with the spacer. I. Not sure why or how that is but its probably the problem. When you put the pack back together how did you get that flush?
I searched on Barnett and can’t find the new piece with the washer just found the spring
The other new parts I used were OEM parts from a newer model, In my case I was working on a 2003 and used parts I bought off E-Bay from a 2005, Go to a Kawasaki parts web sight and look at diagrams of your bike's clutch and a later model, This is the part number of the part I replaces (Holder Clutch Spring) part #, 13091-1494, The replacement part is two piece, what I call a hub and the washer with the teeth, you need both parts to replace the one, part # 1328-1307 & 13280-1306 Both parts called Holder on the parts schematic
What exactly was the parts for the 2005 did you purchase
Also do you have those extra plates
great video!
Hey Dave, I have a 1995 Vulcan 1500 that I believe the clutch was installed incorrectly. The clutch is WAY to aggressive. It need a good 1/3 throttle to not stall out and is damn near uncontrollable at take off. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I guess try checking out clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, make sure when you pull clutch lever your getting full stroke out of the piston the lever pushes, maybe the piston is not fully returning after you release lever so not getting full travel, Check slave cylinder, after you release lever the piston on slave should remain in contact with clutch rod, meaning check the piston isn't releasing to much due to corrosion or dirt pushing it back. A little travel from either pistons makes a bid difference,
Do you think you could have done this job with oil in the bike...? Leaning it on kickstand....
No
@@mobilmontana i think you can... if you think about it, the oil level sight line glass window is below the outer cover so if its level it will still be below that low point, on the kick stand it will be even further below.
great video, but you never showed the trick on putting the 3 shim back in... ?
im with you on that they set a certain way and have no idea
Sorry man, First one goes cupped part toward engine, next two cup to each other so there is space in the middle between them, The only trick is you sort of pre assemble spring washer, the center bushing part and washers on the bushing piece then carefully slip them on all together, might take a couple tries and bike as straight up as possible helps washers from falling off center bushing part
thx bro
I know this is old but where did you find the washer with the teeth for the spring
Look up parts schematic for 2005, compare it to yours, compare part numbers,, two parts are different, the hub or center and that washer ,, got mine on ebay used
Lord David, I need help. my nomadic vulcan 1500cc year 1998 model 1999 need to draw white smoke in the exhaust. may be the valve seals. The machine did not rotate much. she gets very still and I rarely call. this is 40,000 miles round. I am here in Brazil and I have difficulties with freckles. I do not know the torque tightness in the engine. Can you give me the engine tightening specifications? thank you if you can help me thank you.
Here is a link I found on the Internet with torque specs, Good luck gadgetsfixitpage.com/article.php/torque-specifications-vulcan-1500
You skipped the one part I'm having trouble with! lol
I am replacing the clutches on a 2002 Vulcan VN1500 Classic FI. When it came in, the clutches were slipping BAD. When I took it apart, the metal discs were burnt and there is a distinctive smell of, what smells like to me, hickory. The torque limiter springs were installed incorrectly and one of them is way out of shape. After replacing the friction plates, the metal plates and the torque limiter springs, I went to put everything back together. The operating plate sticks out too far to insert the clip into the retaining groove of the clutch cover. I have found that if I loosen the clutch hub nut quite a bit, then the operating plate will fit. I know that there are larger steel plates, but the service manual only recommends replacing one with an adjustment plate and to be honest, the extra 0.3mm is not going to be anywhere near enough to account for the difference I need.
Also, in the service manual, it says to squeeze the clutch handle while you insert the spring plate pusher. That doesn't really make any sense since pulling the clutch lever in pushes the pusher out!
It's been a long day. I've never had this much trouble with a clutch. What am I missing here? Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated!
Seams to me I had trouble, First I had trouble with the aftermarket spring that stuck out further, Think I was only able to grab one or two threads, tighten nut slowly making sure all the parts aligned, think it took several tries, Felt nut stop a couple time as parts were not aligned, Then the trouble your having, Try removing engine side cover on other side, remove three bolts holding slave cylinder, this should remove pressure on the rod that disengages clutch allowing you to push cover in more, , If this works then loosen bleeder screw on slave cylinder so the piston pushes back in while you tighten screws, and while your in there go ahead and and change clutch fluid, bleed out any air that might be in there, fluid breaks down and changing it will make seals last, DOT 3
Let us know how you make out
I appreciate the reply. I have a new spring plate on order and as soon as that comes in, I will definitely try that. I will let you know how things works out...
What is that part I'm getting ready to order the clutch and gasket my shipping has gotten worse just going to replace it now
92144-1934 is stock clutch spring, all my clutch plates were still good, problem don't need other parts I used and I used a Barnett spring and clutch lever is a little too hard, l probably should of used stock spring as part number I gave you,,, if you do need clutch disks plates let me know, I have new Kawasaki set I never used and make you a good deal on em,.
@@mobilmontana I got on some forums and found found these wahers called the judges washers. I used them with Barnett clutch spring. Now I can push start the bike the stock clutch and plates showed light signs of wear. So I just replaced the spring and added the washer. I've also since replaced my bevel bearing it went out a week later. I didn't replace it with the stock. I found a RUclips video showing a bearing made to take more force from the side. I cleaned and regressed the drive shaft. Now if not careful up can lift the front wheel taking off to hard. being able to push start or lock the rear wheel by down shifting to fast it's a whole new ride you feel the power on the ground and I also did all my hydraulic fluids. She stops better and take off is much more responsive.
@@hotboy197988 Cool, good job
Learning loads from your videos mate,thank you.Wish you had turned the music of though.
hello, i saw burnett clutch kit, bat does'n have the litle rind with teeth so were i can find it
Ebay in used clutch parts from later model like 2005
You need that ring and center hub part,, edge is a little thinner too
Hey pal what size steel plates did you use with the upgrade. I have a 2000. Vulcan classic.
I reused the stock steel and fiber plates, after measuring the thickness of old and new I realized the only worn out parts were the spring washer
David Anderson, thank you for the help. I have a question. So I'm going to be ordering that new spring washer you recommended but where do I find that washer with the teeth on it? How did you come across that? Thanks in advance.
I worked on a 2005 model for a guy and noticed the difference so I searched E-Bay and found the parts to change mine over, If your going to use that washer with the teeth you need to change the hub it rides on as wall, Kawasaki part numbers 13280-1307 & 13280-1306 Both parts are called Holder on the Kawasaki parts schematic, Good luck
One more Question, Do you think those parts would work for a 1997 Volcan? I looked up the diagram for both a 97 through 2005 and they look pretty well the same aside from that one part.
I have a 07 Kawasaki Vulcan and I could really use that clutch spring washer you got from the 05 does it help with the slip and can you tell me where I can find one ASAP and would it work on the 07
Look up Kawasaki parts for an 05 model, look at diagram for clutch, you need that washer part and hub , look at comments on one of my videos has part numbers ,, won't help with slipping, you need that large washer spring that goes on them parts, changed mine ,, cliches were still going, parts I replaced were to provent wear on that part
@@mobilmontana okay thank you so much that helps me out a grip
Is there a way I can contact you? I have the same 2003 Vulcan and I'm having clutch issues
Looking for that 2005 washer and spring holder for the Barrett spring. Part number would be very awesome. Have a 2001 vulcan 1500. Slipping when I take off and right after shifting gears and apply gas.
The washer with teeth on it...slides over the spring holder
Holder Part # 13280-1307 and Holder Part # 13280-1306,, If you change the washer with teeth you need to change the hub,, They are a pair and need to use both older style or both newer style to get the right over all dimensions,, Kawasaki calls both parts by the same name,,?? Factory spring clutch Part # 92144-1934 is the same on your 2001 and the 2005,, I'm sure kawasaki spring would be good, I used a Barnet spring but have to admit it's a little hard to hold in at a long light. Look on ebay,, lots of used clutch parts,, got my parts from a 2005 but im sure other years will work as well ,, Good luck
Now can putting regular 10-40 valveoline oil and slightly over filling it a little...affect clutch slippage?
3.5 quarts is what I put in....maybe 3.7 qts.
Overfilling won't effect clutch,,, More than likely with how old your bike is it's the spring,, I bought new clutch for mine and didn't even use it, mine was still good, just spring wasn't ,, Now as far as oil,, It's a good idea to use motorcycle oil,, Valvoline motorcycle oil is what I use, it has an additive for the clutch, Sill betting its the spring,, Get an aftermarket spring or the stock one,, chances when you get it out there's a way to measure it,, I measured mine and new that was the problem,, I could see the difference compared to the new one
Hi Dave I have a question about my 1998 Vulcan 1500 classic. I bought the bike with a seized engine and i found a used engine on ebay. ist a 2000 Vulcan 1500 Nomad. It looks like the same engine. Do you know anything about compatibuility between these bikes? Thanks for the previous responce.
Things to look for, are they both carburetor engines, heads are different from fuel injected ones,
Check the shape of the black duct or tube going from one side of the engine to the other where the air cleaner bolts on, the shape of that duct is different on some models but you could change it from old engine.
I looked at an engine out of a 98 Nomad on eBay and think it will work
About the same except the 2000 might be Fuel injection and if it is might have to change intake and or heads
Dave, great video, do you only need the upgraded washer or do you need the other part too. It just looks the same as the other one.
You need the inner part as well, they look the same but the inner part has a lip or rim at one end that is thinner on the newer one allowing the thicker washer part.
Thanks Davey boy, superb,
Really good diy video. I have a 99 Vulcan Classic , are the clutches the same for several years after 99 or have they changed, part numbers and such ? Also how much are new clutch plates and the rest cost , ball park ? I don't pull a trailer and mine slips a good bit when accelerating but it's rideable . Thanks.
Oh and I Subscribed and liked.
Hay Paul, new clutch plates run around $12 - $15 each plus shipping, check around, and yes there the same for sever years but make sure. If your not in a hurry I would order just cover gasket and clutch spring. You might not need new clutch disks, I bought new clutch disks and ended up not using them, There is a speck for how thick they should be, Min and Max thickness, My whole trouble ended up just the spring, I bought a Barnett spring, a little heavier duty than stock but also harder to pull lever, Looking back a stock spring would of worked, There is also a spec on the clutch spring to see if its wore out and mine was. Good luck and if you do need clutch disks and prices seam high I might be willing to part with the new set I never used
David Anderson Thanks Dave , I'm a truck driver so I have a hard time making time to jump on it. I think I will order the Barnett springs along with a stainless braided clutch hose. I bought it from a friend and he had put tall ape hangers along with extended hoses and cables and I will be replacing those as well. I really appreciate your response and advise. It might be a few weeks or more before I do it and if I need plates I will see if you still have them.
Thanks man, you’re awesome bro!
Do you still have the spare fiber plates? Would u like me to take them off your hands? Interested in buying them from u? Thanks for the videos!!
Sorry so long to respond, ya still have fiber plates, 17$ each from Kawasaki, there are 8 of them,,, The ones I have are new old stock, could let them go for $100 plus the 5$ or $10 to ship,,, Thanks for checking out my video
Appreciate you taking the time to make this video! I've got a 2003 Vulcan Classic that needs a new clutch according to a mechanic. May I ask what manual you use?
Clymer is the repair book I use,,, In my case I thought clutch was worn out,( Slipping bad ) turned out was just the spring,, I never used the new clutch disks I bought
Hi Dave, I have an 04 vulcan 1500 classic. How many still rings do I need in addition to the 8 clutch plates. The clutch is slipping and the bike has 45000 miles on it, so I would like to replace the steel rings as well.
I think 7 steel plates, I bought all new fiber plates only, When I took took it all apart and miked old and new ones I realized I didn't need to replace them, they were hardly worn, If it were me I would just replace spring either with factory one or like me use a Barnett spring, I have nearly 60,000 miles on my bike and pull a trailer with my bike and no more slipping (Barnett Part # 502-00-01025) Im sure a new factory spring will work as well
unfortunately the oil ran low and when I added to it the clutch was still slipping so I thing I have glazed the the plates.
unfortunately, do to my in-attention, I let the oil drop too low, and when I added to it, the clutch is still slipping. So I'm afraid that I have glazed the plates. I will also be adding the barnett spring as well
Well good luck, dont forget to check that spring like I showed in video and if its even close replace it.
Did you all ready buy the fiber clutch plates ? I have a set of new OEM Kawasaki fibers turned out I didn't need
I Have them on order
Hi Dave I have a 1998 vulcan 1500 I'm doing my clutch. Where did u get the upgrade hub and washer from ?
From a 2005 Vulcan 1500, found the parts used on E Bay for like $15 or 20
Hi Dave Brian Scott again I'm having trouble with the clutch on my 1500 it's a 1998 vulcan I watched your video u did and didn't have as good of luck as u did when I reassembled there's a 8th off an inch gap between the clutch spring and the hub where the old wear took place that should be tight with no play correct??? What am I doing wrong???
he said its a little thicker so make sure it goes on the teethe and goes in far enough , tighten bolt and wiggle i guess
about how many miles did this bike have on it when you did this and also how long do you have to soak your new clutch plates in oil for? thanks.
I never used the new clutch plates, after measuring the new and old ones it turned out the slipping clutch was because the clutch spring was weak, I had about 60,000 miles on my bike when I did the repair to the clutch. In reality a factory replacement clutch spring would of did the job, The Barnett spring is a little hard to hold at a long traffic light LOL And soaking new clutch plates, I heard like an hour but I usually do overnight just to be sure
+David Anderson good deal buddy. I've got 41,000 on my 04 1500 classic and my clutch is starting to slip the reason I was asking about the mileage is because I'm wondering if I only need to replace the spring as well
And if you do need clutch fiber plates I have a whole set of new OEM Kawasaki ones I don't need but like me I bet you don't need them, Good luck with your project
+David Anderson thanks for the reply brother. it's not slipping bad only when I get on the throttle hard and sometimes when the bike gets hot, it don't seem to do it when it's cold.
I hated the barnett spring as I felt it was way too heavy - went back to a stock spring
I agree
Hi Dave, I ave changed the discs and plates in my 04 vulcan 1500, but I am not able to get the push rod back into place. also Just to make sure what is the order for the installation of the discs and plates
Take the chrome cover off the other side of engine, there you will see the clutch slave cylinder, Remove the three bolts holding the slave cylinder, When you finish with clutch you can install push rod from that side the slave cylinder is on, Push the piston back in like you would do on a brake caliper on disk brakes on a car, Reinstall slave cylinder after you finish working on the clutch but make sure you stick a little grease on what looks like a little ball in the center of slave cylinder piston, as the push rod spins with engine and piston only goes in and out. . Sa far as the order the clutch plates go, start with a fiber plate and every other one is steel, you should end with fiber plate then aluminum cover,
thanks Dave, I am now having an issue with the clutch cover not staying in place after I put the C-clip ring back in. Any suggestions would be a great help
I'm so glad I found your videos. Awesome work!
How bad will it be to do the boot on the drive shaft and does it also address the primary leak? I mean I should be able to deal with at the same time, correct?
To replace driveshaft boot you have to remove exhaust and all engine mounts to maneuver engine, disconnect driveshaft,, I don't think replacing boot will take care of a leak,, driveshaft boot is just a dust cover over driveshaft coupling,, there is still seals ,, One of my videos shows installing engine and driveshaft
Would you please tell me what that one part that goes behind the pressure string the one that goes in the garage to keep it from spinning and getting the wear what it is called I cannot find it anywhere I can find the pressure spring but that washer thing that goes behind it what do grooves in it to keep it from spinning so it doesn't get to where I have no idea what that's called and I cannot find it anywhere
Look at a newer model schematic, I got part numbers from 2005 ,, then I just ordered the parts used from E-Bay,, Keep in mind you need to replace the hub I guess its called ,, the newer one has a thinner rim to allow space for that ring with the teeth,,
@@mobilmontana well first off I want to thank you for even answering me . most of the time you ask somebody a question , they don't even want to take the time to respond back.... I appreciate you responding back. I did exactly what you said and I found a part number. so that's what I'm going to do thanks....
No problem,, got my parts for around $15 off ebay,, Good luck
@@claybornlewis276 hello I was wondering if you could help me find them same parts I tried doing what you guys said to do I’m confused on where to go and really need help fixing my problem can you please tell me what needs to be ordered I could find it please please and thank you
I ordered the new Barnett spring. I was going to install it until I saw this video. I have looked for the washer you used with the teeth on it. The ones I found don't look like the one you used. Could you please give me the part number you used please?
My bike is a 2003 but the parts I used ( Washer with the teeth) were from a 2005. I just looked up the washer with the teeth, It's called a holder, part number 13280 1307 Now if you use that part you also need to replace what I call the hub it rides on as well as it has a thinner shoulder to make room for it and that part is also called a Holder, part number 13280 1306. Now the total price for these parts if you buy them new is around $110 but I bought mine together from the same guy used off E-Bay for around $30, There is a good parts diagram at www.kawasakipartshouse.com Open two windows and search your bike and the 2005 and you will see the difference.
Thats the part I was looking at. I am trying to find a better deal. $80 for a washer is crazy but if thats what will extend the life of my clutch thats what I will buy regardless. I have heard feed back about the clutch being too tight. Have you had this issue?
I replaced both of the parts I mentioned above along with the Barnett spring and the only issue is with that new Barnett spring the clutch lever is much stiffer, at a long light I switch into neutral.
Think I found the parts you need for like $28.00 on ebay. Go to ebay and search this number in the box at the top 232017615952
David Anderson thank you so much. I researched all day looking for one. I typed it just like you said and there it is. Just ordered it now just to do the install. Thank you again for all of your help.
I've got 39,000 on my 1500 classic and it's starting to slip when I get on it... seems like it only does it in 4th gear tho... anyway, how long do I have before I gotta do this? i got a trip comming up and don't wanna get stuck. also I read where you can adjust at the lever to buy more time is that true? love your videos brother thanks!
I just got the bike and did an oil change. it seems it made it worse. I used GTX 4t 10/40
I guess if you stay our of the throttle you should be OK, What surprised me is when I did go to work on my clutch I went out and bought clutch fiber plates first then when I took it apart I found my old ones were still in very good shape, that's when I deiced to just replace the spring.
+David Anderson yeah I seen that that's weird haha thanks for the response bud
does anyone know the size of socket for the nut on the clutch biggest i have is 1"
Not sure but definitely metric
@@mobilmontana 27MM OR 1-1/16th inch
After u did this was your cluch extremely stiff and hard to pull cuz we just did this and all new clutches and steels
Mines doing the same it has to do with the rod that has the bearing washer
So did replacing just the spring work?
It was just that spring washer of sorts, Worked great and I still have the new clutch fiber disks I bought and wasted my money on.
David Anderson mine started acting up about 4 years ago, I put a mean streak spring/washer in it and it worked good until now. I'm now to where I have pretty much no lever left and just bogs down when I get in the throttle. I'm trying to decide on new fibers and plates or just try that after market spring that seats down better. Thanks for the video and response.
Worked like a charm, I didn't use the new fiber clutch disks , pulled my trailer behind my bike on a ride in the Smoke Mtns and no slipping
I will say the Barnett spring is a little tight, I use neutral at long lights but no slipping even pulling my trailer
Hi Dave, do you only need the washer to upgrade or do you need the other part to go with it, it looks the same as the old one. Cheers Billy.
Great video thanks
Could have been a good video. I couldn't get threw it I got sea sick! If your going to do a video buy a good camera and a tripod and turn the music down or off very distracting.
Hopefully this is the fix for my mean streak 1500. Rides fine until it gets warmed up, after that you can hit the throttle and all it does is rev but stays the same speed.
Exact same on my bike,, clutches were not worn out at all, was just the spring was weak
@@mobilmontana what oil do you use? This is my first bike with the wet clutch so I'm new to it.
@@TheDuck8679 I use Valvoline full synthetic 10-40 Motorcycle oil I buy from Auto parts store, buy oil filters there too, have since bike was new, 72,000 miles on it now
@@mobilmontana hate to bother you again but do you happen to have the part # for the part with the teeth you said came from a 2005? I cant find it on the barnett website.
@@TheDuck8679 Got the part numbers from Kawasaki Partshouse .com,,, There is a parts schematic under clutch so you can see the parts,, Thease are the OEM part numbers ( Holder 13280-1306 & Holder 13280-1307 ) but I bought my parts on ebay,, a lot of used clutches and parts on there pretty cheep,, think I spent like $15 for used parts,, Barnett only sells the clutch spring ( big curved washer with the matching teeth} Found this entire clutch on E-Bay ( enter this number in E Bay box at top 164033122148, In the pic the washer with the teeth is on the hub, (9 Upper right in picture next to large nut )) you need both parts to convert yours,, keep looking you might find just them 2 parts separate like I did but if you do buy entire clutch it still should be cheaper ,, Good luck
Hi David. You have assembled the fiber plates wrong. The last one don't go in the same place as all the other ones. Don't know how serious that can be, thou. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. But you need to improve your filming skills :-) . Almost got motion sick here... :-D
Antonio Vieira good catch, I got it in the end
also, you did not put yer last plate in the offset notch in the basket
Protecting the Protectors why I'm in the middle and wonder if i need to do that
hey ! at least ya didnt mix 'em up and have to do it all again.LOL!
Thank you,, DONE.
Thanks for the great video! Very Helpful !!!
Good info. Thanks.
I did my clutch recently with new Barnett friction plates and new steels I also picked up the new spring but trying to reassemble I could not get the nut to start on the threads do u have any suggestions?
Sounds like the total thickness of new fibers and steels combined with the new spring, I only ended up using the new spring and it was close getting nut started. Use a micrometer and compare thickness of the new stack of fiber and steel plates to the old stack of fibers and steels. I have a stack of new OEM Kawasaki fibers I could measure up if you want to compare thickness. Guess you could reinstall the old steels and fibers, run it for a while till new spring breaks in a bit. Let us know what you end up doing to fix it, might help someone alts.
What size steel plates did you use with the upgrade?
If you're not a mechanic do NOT attempt this at home!
Dude its a good video except for one thing you did not show putting in the push piece in and telling that you must push that piece in with you hands in order to put the operating plate back on and the snap ring back on. Kinda important step you skipped.
Good point
What a fucking design.
Next time please shut music off!
Turn your damn radio off
Nice video Just too much camera shake
shut off this music
Is the 03 and the 05 holder the same Just the 05 comes with the ring with the teeth? I ask for I am looking to order the parts and if the thick holder is the same for both years then I will only order the ring with the teeth and the spring from Barnett... thanks!
The hub (what i call it) that the ring with teeth is different on my 03 from the 05 parts I used,, the hub on the 05 , at one end has a thinner end, the edge the spring slides up against, when I bought a hub from 05 also needs a washer with teeth that fit into teeth on spring,,, hubs on the 03 and 05 look nearly the same other than the thickness of the end,,, the 05 is thinner to allow the use of the additional washer with the teeth that meets the spring,,, look at parts breakdown of both youll see the additional washer with the teeth ,,, washer with the teeth keeps the teeth on the new spring from wearing out ,, hope that makes sense ,,, Barnett spring is good but takes a little to hold at a long red light,,,
David Anderson thank you for the reply! I ordered the ring and the hub holder and will be doing the same thing you did this upcoming weekend. Thanks