Just buy an AC Flush Gun. You fill the can with AC Flush solution, hook up to your air compressor insert the end of the gun into the item being flushed, pull the trigger and it will start pushing the solution through with air, once all the flush solution is dispensed, simply continue spraying air through the item until no more flush solution comes out the other end. The flush gun I picked up was about $30 on ebay. Works great and fast and easy to use, took about 1/2 hour to flush the refrigerant lines, condenser, and evaporator. Replace the accumulator/drier assembly, and orifice tube, then flush the rest of the system minus the compressor. Also, replace all o-rings before reconnecting everything, vacuum and check for leaks, if any are found get them fixed, then vacuum again and at that time recharge the system. No you don't need nitrogen its an unnecessary step, by the time you go get a nitrogen tank and connections to hook into your AC system, you could have spent about $20 on a can of R134A, enough to somewhat charge the system to test it for leaks along with your vacuum pump and gauge set...the gauge set will tell you a lot about your AC's state of being.
Vacuum WILL NOT pull moisture out of desiccant. The desiccant will absorb whatever moisture you let in contact with it. So you try to keep it dry in any way possible. Leave caps on new ones as long as possible. Cap lines if they are going to be open for any appreciable time. A new dryer will junk itself in 24 hours open to atmosphere
@Tater314 AC shops have used compressed air for decades. Even the instructions that come with the AC flush kit insist on using compressed air. There's nothing wrong with it as long as you replace the drier and pull a long vacuum. An orifice tube blocked with moisture will quickly unplug with 30hg of vacuum.
This nozzle is pretty amazing, guess you still have to have a good reserve of shop air. What about an AC system thats been vacuumed down after putting a used compressor on? It won't reach vent temps any cooler that 50 degrees in the summer mornings and 60 later when its hot. This system seems to do its best cooling at 25 PSI on the low side.
What is the air pressure of your air compressor used during the testing of air gun? What is the minimum output air pressure spec required for car ac flushing when buying air compressor?
This is just a demonstration anyway, but I'd replace the lines if my compressor had an internal failure and not just the clutch. Better yet I'd take it in and have it done.
are you kidding? what prevents air from getting in after you get done flushing with the nitrogen? vacuum pump will draw all the air and moisture out upon reassembly.
How to leave nitrogen in the system? Hmm... how about using a 1/4 turn ball valve to release the nitrogen then close it when it's almost done? This is so simple, but I'm sure you could have figured that out for yourself.
How can you leave 1 psi in the system with the line disconnected to flush? If you reconnect everything and charge with 1 psi Nitrogen you still have ambient air in the line, just compressed. The vacuum pump will draw out the air and nitrogen, same difference. And BTW- I'm an engineer, smart guy.
flush with nitrogen, bleed out most the nitrogen but leave about 1 psi then connect the vacuum. Not really difficult smart guy. And no, I'm not kidding I'm a refrigeration tech.
Just buy an AC Flush Gun. You fill the can with AC Flush solution, hook up to your air compressor insert the end of the gun into the item being flushed, pull the trigger and it will start pushing the solution through with air, once all the flush solution is dispensed, simply continue spraying air through the item until no more flush solution comes out the other end. The flush gun I picked up was about $30 on ebay. Works great and fast and easy to use, took about 1/2 hour to flush the refrigerant lines, condenser, and evaporator.
Replace the accumulator/drier assembly, and orifice tube, then flush the rest of the system minus the compressor. Also, replace all o-rings before reconnecting everything, vacuum and check for leaks, if any are found get them fixed, then vacuum again and at that time recharge the system.
No you don't need nitrogen its an unnecessary step, by the time you go get a nitrogen tank and connections to hook into your AC system, you could have spent about $20 on a can of R134A, enough to somewhat charge the system to test it for leaks along with your vacuum pump and gauge set...the gauge set will tell you a lot about your AC's state of being.
Vacuum WILL NOT pull moisture out of desiccant. The desiccant will absorb whatever moisture you let in contact with it. So you try to keep it dry in any way possible. Leave caps on new ones as long as possible. Cap lines if they are going to be open for any appreciable time. A new dryer will junk itself in 24 hours open to atmosphere
@Tater314 AC shops have used compressed air for decades. Even the instructions that come with the AC flush kit insist on using compressed air. There's nothing wrong with it as long as you replace the drier and pull a long vacuum. An orifice tube blocked with moisture will quickly unplug with 30hg of vacuum.
blowing air through a dryer destroys a desicant bag......
@jmihalchik yep, but the trick is to minimize moisture so you can pull a better evacuation.
This nozzle is pretty amazing, guess you still have to have a good reserve of shop air.
What about an AC system thats been vacuumed down after putting a used compressor on? It won't reach vent temps any cooler that 50 degrees in the summer mornings and 60 later when its hot. This system seems to do its best cooling at 25 PSI on the low side.
sir wonderful lecture thank you
Should have definitely replaced the dryer. The desiccant in it already absorbed moisture from the air.
This was more like a sale video then a AC system video
looks like a Ford a/c dryer ....will order the Typhoon now , i hate a/c comebacks
Should never use shop air to blow out AC systems... 1/4 of one drop of moisture will cause expansion valve or orifice tube blockage! Nitrogen ONLY!
What is the air pressure of your air compressor used during the testing of air gun? What is the minimum output air pressure spec required for car ac flushing when buying air compressor?
This is just a demonstration anyway, but I'd replace the lines if my compressor had an internal failure and not just the clutch. Better yet I'd take it in and have it done.
You just cost me $16!! Arrives Tuesday via Amazon.
So it's a commercial for typhoon
Where do i buy the fancy air gun? hehe
Where are you located?
@lt1bird348 Yup replace the dryer, and the washer!! HA!
are you kidding? what prevents air from getting in after you get done flushing with the nitrogen?
vacuum pump will draw all the air and moisture out upon reassembly.
thank yoiu
Will u adopt me? Do i convert to r134a and replace all things on 85 c1500? Manly, clean or replace evaporator? Compressor blows cool but ill replace
@canadaeast Ebay of course!!
How to leave nitrogen in the system? Hmm... how about using a 1/4 turn ball valve to release the nitrogen then close it when it's almost done? This is so simple, but I'm sure you could have figured that out for yourself.
for how long? 5 minutes or 1 hours?
How can you leave 1 psi in the system with the line disconnected to flush?
If you reconnect everything and charge with 1 psi Nitrogen you still have ambient air in the line, just compressed. The vacuum pump will draw out the air and nitrogen, same difference.
And BTW- I'm an engineer, smart guy.
What a waste of time. 100% sales pitch.
flush with nitrogen, bleed out most the nitrogen but leave about 1 psi then connect the vacuum. Not really difficult smart guy. And no, I'm not kidding I'm a refrigeration tech.