I'm surprised your software doesn't have an input field for ambient temperature. I've found ambient temp to have a huge effect on pressures, especially in a cold climate.
This is the BEST and WORST AC system video I've ever seen. The software looks great, but holy crap the audio was hopeless. Never the less, thanks for the video
Thanks for posting. I developed this software over 6 years ago and it's been updated as needed. It also has a database and some simplified wiring diagrams. Please refer back to the description and the in-video links for how to get the software. I don't want to use this video to push my software as I'm trying to help people understand the concepts. You can private message me for more info. Thanks again for posting.
Thanks for the input. We'll discuss it in any future development meetings for any coming updates. The software is 6 years old and has been updated a few times. Technology moves forward and we have to do the same. Thanks again.
No, this software is manufacturer specific. The pressure analysis section is just one. At one point in the video you're able to see the top TABS for the different sections. It is a unique software for the price. To this day we have 9 separate automotive software dealing with anything from transmissions, SRS-Airbags to Climate Control. See the description for the our website. Hope that helps.
Not being Mean but what does this do for trouble shooting the A/C system, we all who are watching are trying to diagnose our own A/C systems, And this does not HELP! Your showing a full diagnose of A/C system with the right tools and we people do not have a diagnose A/C system you understand? Thanks but no thanks........
Also this.....from timeline 5:25..... Case 3: you (wrongly) claim "low on LOW side + low on HIGH side" to be represented by 30 psi low side...and 350 psi high side ( shows 350 on your "text" while robo voice SAYS 200 psi.) Fact.....even 200 psi can be a "normal" high-side pressure, as well as 30 on the low side. For most systems ( depending upon ambient temps)....NORMAL can be 30-45 psi on low side....abnd say 190-240 psi on high side. Both high and low numbers will increase as local ambient temps increase. In summary: Your numbers.....(besides the robo-voice and text not matching).....are also "wrong".
I'm trying to repair my tractor ac. I'm burning up in that cab. I'm not a garage. I have a high low pressure side and a low high pressure side with a hot compressor. Compressor bad?
My 99 Yukon would cool for 5 minutes then get warm.I checked rear air still cold I remembered the vacuum line on the heater valve was bad.I was getting warm coolant in the heater coil when it warms up the air also flowed through the heater. Coil I bypassed the heater core works great.When checking the heater valve one of the plastic tubes snapped with minimal pressure from a finger checking the valve.Good thing it happened at home I would have lost all coolant in no time.
We developed this software a few years back and have kept updating it as needed. This series will also launch as a publication and DVD in the near future.
Can low refrigerant cause high pressure reading on the low side? Compressor clicks on, stays on for a few secs then turns off. no or very little cool air comes out. AC works fine as long as you are moving along on the highway.
I think this is based off r-22. You can run as low as 160-170 in early spring. It's all based off of outdoor ambient temperture. The best was to diagnosis is with super heat readings on fixed orfice systems and sub Cooling on tv systems. Evaporator can run as low as 20psi in max cooling. I would get a p\t chart and super heat and sub cooling chart.
I have a few questions 1.) The vehicle calls for 3 lbs. of refrigerant (Front&Rear AC System) or 2 lbs. of refrigerant (Has no rear AC). My vehicle has the rear AC but I don't plan on using it, do I still fill with 3 lbs. of refrigerant? 2.) System has been evacuated, calls for 48 oz. of refrigerant, you add 12 oz. Would the air coming from the vents be noticeable? (Would a thermometer register it at...say 75F ?) 3.) Can you tell a condenser is "clogged" by reading the gauges? 4.) If an AC had moisture inside, would it still blow cold air?
Instead of waiting for replies I went out and did some hands on learning. Here are the answers: 1.) Add 3 lbs. of refrigerant even if you don't use the rear. Refrigerant will still cycle to the rear evaporator. 2.) No, in this test I started feeling 80F after the 24oz of 48oz were added. 3.) YES! Low and High side pressures will be too high, even if the correct amount of refrigerant was added (take into account the ambient temperature also.) [[Could be 1 of many reasons]] 4.) Haha I asked that?? DUH it has a receiver/dryer that will filter out that moisture. Air, on the other hand, is different. It can give a false reading on the gauges.
Look, you can experiment all you want. That's great, but in a repair shop you have to be 100% all the time. After doing hundreds of AC repairs in my time, I came up with the AC Troubleshooter Software and it's been on the market for many years. Updated are included every two years or so. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_software_catalog.html
A clogged expansion valve will never cause high pressures. The reason why is the system is a closed circuit. If the refrigerant can’t get from the high side to the low side, the compressor quickly empties the evaporator. Since the system is sealed, and a compressor only pumps vapor, there’s nothing left for it to pump. The pressures will always drop because the refrigerant ends up in the condenser with a fan blowing on it.
Fantastic, I would like to purchase the program. Is it possible to switch the gauges to opposite sides ? Low on the left and high on the right ? Thanks let me know..
Is this software compatible with the new variable displacement compressors and their solenoid control valves? In my case the high pressure side has 150-180 psi and low side pressure is a constant 60 psi with the system fully charged and 89 degress Fahrenheit outside temperatures with +50% humidity. It will not cool more then 71degrees. What would this software tell about the possible causes?
We now have a $75-OFF Coupon for the Climate Control Troubleshooter. The special RUclips code is: RUclips-HVAC-102013 Just copy and paste this code when purchasing. It is case sensitive, meaning use all capital letters and dashes exactly as it appears here. Thank you all. Mandy...
I try to make this short. I had to change ac compressors from a 96 jeep cherokee to 2000 had to change out backs so lines would fit on 2000. now after having the system vacuumed it wont take freon. I tryied to ground the ac high pressure switch so the clutch would kick in and it will cause the rpms to rise a little but wont kick the clutch in and will blow the big 20 amp fuse under the hood every time. the orig compressor had a ground and 2 wires coming off the compressor vs 2 wires coming off the compressor on the 96 will that make a difference? is my switch bad and wont allow freon to enter.
Nice software! But how about these two cars? Pressures are perfect on both but still not cooling below 60 at the vents? On both vehicles once pressure is brought past 25 PSI buy adding freon, temp rises in the vents. It has to be moisture doesn't it? I was hoping to get a reclaimer long before the summer heat ends and evacuate both systems for a longer duration and try again. 30 minutes isn't enough on a single stage vacuum pump is it?
Information you are giving is incorrect. Pressures usally follow each other. If you have a clogged expansion valve you will have a low side low pressure condition and at the same time high side will go low
I just looked at a chart that shows expansion valve or orifice tube problem if low side reads low. In this video, the low side reading high is that kind of problem. Which is right?
Hello sir! I would like to ask from you if these base pressure would still be applicable in Qatar?I am currently working with heavy equipments, and the highest ever recorded in qatar was 50.4 °C (122.7 °F) if im not mistaken. I would love to learn and hear from you more.Thanks in advance...God Bless!!!
This software it can give just a posible cause. Not all high pressures are related to restriction, txv or orifice; could be also no enough air flow passing through condenser coil. Maybe very durty and clog up, condenser fan motor not blowing the right CFMs. Also low pressure on the suction side could also clog up evaporator coil. Could be many things. High low suction pressure could be also fresh air damper or faulty actuator not closing 100 %, and as result hot fresh air from out side in passing through evap. coil that will increase the pressure. The software can give just a posible causes.
Jose Altamirano Yes, that is correct. For issues that are MECHANICALLY related, meaning dirty evaporator or condenser, a quick visual inspection should be done before you start. However, in absence of a larger INFORMATION system like Alldata or Mitchell, this software gives you a cost effective option. Thanks for posting.
Sorry my friend, but if this is a troubleshooting software it should notice to everyone to make sure coil is clean. Regardless, in cars not all evap coils are posible to check. Must of the time in some models all dashboard needs to be remove to inspect the status of coil. Your software it's just for a brief posible problem.
I look into buying this when you had the discount available , but I never saw the code section where to paste it. Also is this a CD that you would be shipping or would you be able to download it?
Yes, it is a download. Once you do your purchase you'll get a special link to the Software. Use the InVideo link to get to the purchase page on our website. Any questions we're always available by phone, RUclips, LinkedIn and wherever books are sold. Thank you.
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer ES. My A/C problem seemed to be when my car is at a stand still. I have 2 condenser fans motor and I have seen both of them turn on and off which tells me that they are working..... possibly not working right but at least I seen them clicking on and off? But when I'm driving my A/C is nice and cold. I mean really really good COLD air but once I stop the vent slowly starts to pull in some warm air. I do have experience in the HVAC (residential, commercial, and industrial) but I know auto A/C has the same principle but it is a little different as well compare to a home unit. I just hate to base my reading off of my gauges when in fact I probably have a air flow problem and don't wanna assume I overcharge the system, undercharge, or have a clogged system. I did investigate my condenser which looks to be in good condition and may be a little dirty which I'll clean shortly but nothing out of the ordinary. My question is what could possibly be the problem? The last thing I don't want is a clogged system but like I've said before my car has no problem at all cooling down when I'm driving. Any help would really be appreciated!!!
+brianjirish The main difference in auto AC is that there are ducting vents to contend with and all the controls that drive them. Quick way to know, turn AC-ON and feel the low side pipe for colder temp. If so, then concentrate on the vents. If not it's low on Freon. Makes sense?
Blade with all the talkes going on, everything is forgetting moisture. You can have everyone working good until you get moisture in your system then it won't cool properly. The point of refrigerant is to remove heat and moisture from the cab. When it obsorb heat it changes state from lquid to vapour going to receiver dyer then to the compressor
hi , the software u have written is Generic, meaning irrespective of vehciles, low side and high side diagnosis are common, so what advantage this software is going to bring in.. 2) on faulty compressor, up on evacuation and recharge as per manufacturer recommendation, will both low and hig side be low to confirm compressor is not working.. if compressor is weak what is my high and low side be and is there a reason behind this.. thanksmuch.
So is the baseline figure- is this relating to a running engine or engine not running? I checked my auto a.c. today. It was like 105 degrees F here in Las Vegas. I had the engine off for about 40 hours, since the a.c. was last turned on. Here are the figures I got with engine off. 110psi LO side and 75psi HI side. The LO side psi jumped up substantially as I was opening the valve, turning the knob down completely onto the schrader valve. So these figures are with the manifold quick disconnect valves fully opened. Here are the figures with engine and a.c. running. 40 psi LO side and 175 psi HI side. Both manifold valves are still closed. During both of these tests, I never opened the manifold valves. But I think I should have purged the manifold hoses before opening up the lo and hi side schraders. My problem- I know that this a.c. is struggling to cool. It throws cold air that is 30 degrees cooler than ambient, but I know it could do better. My friend has exact 2004 toyota camry and his a.c. is COLD. ANY HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!
R22 refrigerant not gone yet, its fading down, and by the way the replacement it's R410A. Let me explain you something my friend, the right name for the chemical for air conditioning or refrigeration is not FREON. The name freon was just a brand of the bottle the use to contain such chemical, just like toyota, nissan, Ford, Chevrolet..all of then makes cars. The brand of bottle freon use to make many kinds of the chemical called REFRIGERANT. Them each bottle comes with the name of wish refrigerant come inside, besides, every bottle, depending on the color determine the king of refrigerant. Like green R22, Pink R410A, and etc; but always check the label.
Our RUclips Channel ADPTraining is an AUTOMOTIVE channel. R22 or it's newest substitute R410A is NOT USED IN CARS. As far as the name, here in the USA it's Generic, but wrong name is Freon. As you pointed out, yes it is a BRAND name and it's proper name is Refrigerant. In the USA R12 is now illegal and not seen. R134 has taken over, probably to be replaced soon. Thank you for commenting.
R134 is been use even on big chillers,,,I use to go to a chemical plant in 1995 that I remember was using R134... But regardless, when in when to schools and different trainings the use to teach us about cars too Mr ADP Training.... Your curse it's just reaching the surface, but thanks anyways for trying. I know R410A is the substitute, and I dont like it, blend refrigerant. Who doesn't know that? Even my 2 year old son dough... I encourage you to update your software for cars...its way back behind...sorry but it's the truth.
Great video... Great learning... :) Can you please tell that how much is the velocity of air of mass flow rate at the outlet of automotive AC ducts.. I know it may vary but in general what would be the RANGE for highest speeds and lowest speeds at the outlet.. Thanks.. :) :)
The writing on the screen doesn't even match the annoying computer voice and also that software should have inputs for temperature and humidity otherwise the numbers are not right
There is no average low side pressure and there is no average high side pressure for all vehicles. The pressures are all over the gauges depending whether it’s 65° outside or 95° outside they would be totally different. If it has a fixed displacement compressor or a variable displacement compressor whether it’s a scroll compressor or a rotary vane compressor or a electric compressor with electronics sensor feedback. Example some vehicles older ones fix compressor expansion valve have 12 psi is their normal average low side pressure other vehicles somewhere around 31 psi is a normal low side pressure while others may have 45 to 50 psi on the low side and considered normal so you tell me what is normal. ( no such thing as normal for all vehicles) same goes for the high side I have three vehicles sitting here in my shop one high side is 118 psi I’m looking at the second vehicle on the gauge is the high sides 170 psi looking at the third vehicle it’s 250 psi and all of them are normal for those particular vehicles with the type of AC system they have.
I'm surprised your software doesn't have an input field for ambient temperature. I've found ambient temp to have a huge effect on pressures, especially in a cold climate.
This is the BEST and WORST AC system video I've ever seen. The software looks great, but holy crap the audio was hopeless. Never the less, thanks for the video
www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
cool software , but that music with the organ has got to go.
Thanks for posting. I developed this software over 6 years ago and it's been updated as needed. It also has a database and some simplified wiring diagrams. Please refer back to the description and the in-video links for how to get the software. I don't want to use this video to push my software as I'm trying to help people understand the concepts. You can private message me for more info. Thanks again for posting.
Thank you so much for a very informative topics that guides so much in teaching.
Thanks for the input. We'll discuss it in any future development meetings for any coming updates. The software is 6 years old and has been updated a few times. Technology moves forward and we have to do the same. Thanks again.
this video is very good and excellent for learning , and I'm looking for the actual software .
Thanks
where can you get the a/c pressure diagnostic from
Hi Richard, beautiful baby. Take a peek at the description and video again for links. Thanks for posting.
Thanks you for posting.
No, this software is manufacturer specific. The pressure analysis section is just one. At one point in the video you're able to see the top TABS for the different sections. It is a unique software for the price. To this day we have 9 separate automotive software dealing with anything from transmissions, SRS-Airbags to Climate Control. See the description for the our website. Hope that helps.
Not being Mean but what does this do for trouble shooting the A/C system, we all who are watching are trying to diagnose our own A/C systems, And this does not HELP! Your showing a full diagnose of A/C system with the right tools and we people do not have a diagnose A/C system you understand? Thanks but no thanks........
Your opinion
Also this.....from timeline 5:25..... Case 3: you (wrongly) claim "low on LOW side + low on HIGH side" to be represented by 30 psi low side...and 350 psi high side ( shows 350 on your "text" while robo voice SAYS 200 psi.) Fact.....even 200 psi can be a "normal" high-side pressure, as well as 30 on the low side. For most systems ( depending upon ambient temps)....NORMAL can be 30-45 psi on low side....abnd say 190-240 psi on high side. Both high and low numbers will increase as local ambient temps increase. In summary: Your numbers.....(besides the robo-voice and text not matching).....are also "wrong".
Your opinion
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi DE the clutch on air conditioning compressor does not engage there is voltage going in what might the problem be. Thank You
I'm trying to repair my tractor ac. I'm burning up in that cab. I'm not a garage. I have a high low pressure side and a low high pressure side with a hot compressor. Compressor bad?
Expansion valve, low freon or compressor.
My 99 Yukon would cool for 5 minutes then get warm.I checked rear air still cold
I remembered the vacuum line on the heater valve was bad.I was getting warm coolant in the heater coil when it warms up the air also flowed through the heater. Coil I bypassed the heater core works great.When checking the heater valve one of the plastic tubes snapped with minimal pressure from a finger checking the valve.Good thing it happened at home I would have lost all coolant in no time.
Good for you www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
We developed this software a few years back and have kept updating it as needed. This series will also launch as a publication and DVD in the near future.
Why are the gauges backward?
Why
Can low refrigerant cause high pressure reading on the low side? Compressor clicks on, stays on for a few secs then turns off. no or very little cool air comes out. AC works fine as long as you are moving along on the highway.
may be OVER charged
Yes
Climate Control/AC Troubleshooter Software $145.00
Ok
Needs to be edited. Case three lead in is wrong
Ok
Sorry, but normal high side pressure would be 190-220.
Chris Earle THanks for sharing.... www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
ADPTraining You're welcome....
+ADPTraining so is the information in the video correct or incorrect??
I think this is based off r-22. You can run as low as 160-170 in early spring. It's all based off of outdoor ambient temperture. The best was to diagnosis is with super heat readings on fixed orfice systems and sub Cooling on tv systems. Evaporator can run as low as 20psi in max cooling. I would get a p\t chart and super heat and sub cooling chart.
Good information video, but hate the robotic voice
www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
as a retired tech , pt charts are very important to use and you can't go wrong at all so use them .
thanks!!!!!!!!!
What other softwares I can use to determine what issues im facing with an A/C systems
I have a few questions
1.) The vehicle calls for 3 lbs. of refrigerant (Front&Rear AC System) or 2 lbs. of refrigerant (Has no rear AC). My vehicle has the rear AC but I don't plan on using it, do I still fill with 3 lbs. of refrigerant?
2.) System has been evacuated, calls for 48 oz. of refrigerant, you add 12 oz. Would the air coming from the vents be noticeable? (Would a thermometer register it at...say 75F ?)
3.) Can you tell a condenser is "clogged" by reading the gauges?
4.) If an AC had moisture inside, would it still blow cold air?
Instead of waiting for replies I went out and did some hands on learning. Here are the answers:
1.) Add 3 lbs. of refrigerant even if you don't use the rear. Refrigerant will still cycle to the rear evaporator.
2.) No, in this test I started feeling 80F after the 24oz of 48oz were added.
3.) YES! Low and High side pressures will be too high, even if the correct amount of refrigerant was added (take into account the ambient temperature also.) [[Could be 1 of many reasons]]
4.) Haha I asked that?? DUH it has a receiver/dryer that will filter out that moisture. Air, on the other hand, is different. It can give a false reading on the gauges.
Look, you can experiment all you want. That's great, but in a repair shop you have to be 100% all the time. After doing hundreds of AC repairs in my time, I came up with the AC Troubleshooter Software and it's been on the market for many years. Updated are included every two years or so.
www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_software_catalog.html
This is just a commercial trying to sell you their software
There's no other APP like this one, so buy if you want.
A clogged expansion valve will never cause high pressures. The reason why is the system is a closed circuit. If the refrigerant can’t get from the high side to the low side, the compressor quickly empties the evaporator. Since the system is sealed, and a compressor only pumps vapor, there’s nothing left for it to pump. The pressures will always drop because the refrigerant ends up in the condenser with a fan blowing on it.
Totally erroneous. 👎
Cannot get the pressure down below 22 on the vacuum pump for AC unit
Do they one one simular to this for phone app?
No, just Windows.
Can you use a 7cfm vaccum pump for auto ac?
Why not? www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
Fantastic, I would like to purchase the program. Is it possible to switch the gauges to opposite sides ? Low on the left and high on the right ? Thanks let me know..
Find It here, thanks. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_software_catalog.html
Also see my Ebooks here. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/Automotive_Diagnostic_Repair_Book_Catalog.htm
Does this software supports asian vehicles ?
Yes
Just the kind of information I was looking for. Great video.
Where do you buy the softwear
My website Thanks, DONATE: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
Is this software compatible with the new variable displacement compressors and their solenoid control valves? In my case the high pressure side has 150-180 psi and low side pressure is a constant 60 psi with the system fully charged and 89 degress Fahrenheit outside temperatures with +50% humidity. It will not cool more then 71degrees. What would this software tell about the possible causes?
Yes...
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
We now have a $75-OFF Coupon for the Climate Control Troubleshooter. The special RUclips code is:
RUclips-HVAC-102013
Just copy and paste this code when purchasing. It is case sensitive, meaning use all capital letters and dashes exactly as it appears here. Thank you all. Mandy...
I try to make this short. I had to change ac compressors from a 96 jeep cherokee to 2000 had to change out backs so lines would fit on 2000. now after having the system vacuumed it wont take freon. I tryied to ground the ac high pressure switch so the clutch would kick in and it will cause the rpms to rise a little but wont kick the clutch in and will blow the big 20 amp fuse under the hood every time. the orig compressor had a ground and 2 wires coming off the compressor vs 2 wires coming off the compressor on the 96 will that make a difference? is my switch bad and wont allow freon to enter.
Something's kinked
Nice software! But how about these two cars?
Pressures are perfect on both but still not cooling below 60 at the vents?
On both vehicles once pressure is brought past 25 PSI buy adding freon, temp rises in the vents.
It has to be moisture doesn't it? I was hoping to get a reclaimer long before the summer heat ends and evacuate both systems for a longer duration and try again.
30 minutes isn't enough on a single stage vacuum pump is it?
Sounds like an 80's TV robot.
I am an 80s robot
Software details and download
Process
Google auto diagnostics and publishing
More people would watch your video if we didnt have to listen to an annoying computer voice narration
Sorry
Decent info. Hard to watch. Make better videos and people will really watch them. Use your actual voice
Ok
Information you are giving is incorrect. Pressures usally follow each other. If you have a clogged expansion valve you will have a low side low pressure condition and at the same time high side will go low
If you think a clogged exp valve will give you low on both sides, we're from different planets. My software is right, you are wrong.
Thanks for the video
I just looked at a chart that shows expansion valve or orifice tube problem if low side reads low. In this video, the low side reading high is that kind of problem. Which is right?
Hi , what software do you use???....how can U have this software???
www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_software_catalog.html
Hello sir! I would like to ask from you if these base pressure would still be applicable in Qatar?I am currently working with
heavy equipments, and the highest ever recorded in qatar was 50.4 °C (122.7 °F) if im not mistaken. I would love to learn and hear from you more.Thanks in advance...God Bless!!!
what software do you use?
new compressor with .575 gram charge. 14 jetta tdi gauges go into vacuum high and lowside
Ok
What about high pressure on the low side 80psi and 100 psi on high side
Damaged expansion valve. www.autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/auto_repair_software_catalog.html
1984 jaguar static pressure fine compressed goes into vaccum on low side high side 220
What am I missing.?
Mitchell
Software? really? I was hoping to learn some old school ways of troubleshooting A/C issues. How reliable is this software?
This software it can give just a posible cause. Not all high pressures are related to restriction, txv or orifice; could be also no enough air flow passing through condenser coil. Maybe very durty and clog up, condenser fan motor not blowing the right CFMs. Also low pressure on the suction side could also clog up evaporator coil. Could be many things.
High low suction pressure could be also fresh air damper or faulty actuator not closing 100 %, and as result hot fresh air from out side in passing through evap. coil that will increase the pressure.
The software can give just a posible causes.
Jose Altamirano Yes, that is correct. For issues that are MECHANICALLY related, meaning dirty evaporator or condenser, a quick visual inspection should be done before you start. However, in absence of a larger INFORMATION system like Alldata or Mitchell, this software gives you a cost effective option. Thanks for posting.
Sorry my friend, but if this is a troubleshooting software it should notice to everyone to make sure coil is clean. Regardless, in cars not all evap coils are posible to check. Must of the time in some models all dashboard needs to be remove to inspect the status of coil. Your software it's just for a brief posible problem.
I've got 60 psi on the low
The tech told me to change the compressor or try refill the freon and oil
What u think??
I look into buying this when you had the discount available , but I never saw the code section where to paste it. Also is this a CD that you would be shipping or would you be able to download it?
Yes, it is a download. Once you do your purchase you'll get a special link to the Software. Use the InVideo link to get to the purchase page on our website. Any questions we're always available by phone, RUclips, LinkedIn and wherever books are sold. Thank you.
Awesome info!
www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=F9W5VPHTGWBV6
Whhat if you have a high pressure in the upper and no pressure in lower
What if?
Why do these people use stupid robotic voices?
Cause we're stupid
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer ES. My A/C problem seemed to be when my car is at a stand still. I have 2 condenser fans motor and I have seen both of them turn on and off which tells me that they are working..... possibly not working right but at least I seen them clicking on and off? But when I'm driving my A/C is nice and cold. I mean really really good COLD air but once I stop the vent slowly starts to pull in some warm air. I do have experience in the HVAC (residential, commercial, and industrial) but I know auto A/C has the same principle but it is a little different as well compare to a home unit. I just hate to base my reading off of my gauges when in fact I probably have a air flow problem and don't wanna assume I overcharge the system, undercharge, or have a clogged system. I did investigate my condenser which looks to be in good condition and may be a little dirty which I'll clean shortly but nothing out of the ordinary. My question is what could possibly be the problem? The last thing I don't want is a clogged system but like I've said before my car has no problem at all cooling down when I'm driving. Any help would really be appreciated!!!
+brianjirish The main difference in auto AC is that there are ducting vents to contend with and all the controls that drive them. Quick way to know, turn AC-ON and feel the low side pipe for colder temp. If so, then concentrate on the vents. If not it's low on Freon. Makes sense?
sounds like your compressor is weak
So 49 PSI is the number to shoot for on the low side with compressor running?
Blade with all the talkes going on, everything is forgetting moisture. You can have everyone working good until you get moisture in your system then it won't cool properly. The point of refrigerant is to remove heat and moisture from the cab. When it obsorb heat it changes state from lquid to vapour going to receiver dyer then to the compressor
Thank you so much for a very informative topics that guides so much in teaching.
is there any special offer/coupon going on to buy the software?
Thank you so much for a very informative topics that guides so much in teaching.
i have already changed both the front and the rear expansion valves, still have 100 psi on the low side
hi , the software u have written is Generic, meaning irrespective of vehciles, low side and high side diagnosis are common, so what advantage this software is going to bring in..
2) on faulty compressor, up on evacuation and recharge as per manufacturer recommendation, will both low and hig side be low to confirm compressor is not working.. if compressor is weak what is my high and low side be and is there a reason behind this.. thanksmuch.
sivaraj palanisamy if the refrigerant is correct and the pressures are still too low then you have a compressor problem
Hey my high side is low reads 200 it's 95f out my low side reads 50 what do u think?
Compressor
I don't like the cpu voice
Sorry
Where can I get the software? Great video
Thank you. For more training, videos, software and equipment visit my site.
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
very nice
How much for this software?
Here is it... sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/instant/ClimateControlTroubleshooter
So is the baseline figure- is this relating to a running engine or engine not running?
I checked my auto a.c. today. It was like 105 degrees F here in Las Vegas. I had the engine off for about 40 hours, since the a.c. was last turned on. Here are the figures I got with engine off. 110psi LO side and 75psi HI side. The LO side psi jumped up substantially as I was opening the valve, turning the knob down completely onto the schrader valve. So these figures are with the manifold quick disconnect valves fully opened.
Here are the figures with engine and a.c. running. 40 psi LO side and 175 psi HI side. Both manifold valves are still closed.
During both of these tests, I never opened the manifold valves. But I think I should have purged the manifold hoses before opening up the lo and hi side schraders.
My problem- I know that this a.c. is struggling to cool. It throws cold air that is 30 degrees cooler than ambient, but I know it could do better. My friend has exact 2004 toyota camry and his a.c. is COLD.
ANY HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!
How to charge my house AC system with r 22
R22 is gone... you need to do a switchover to R134... Nowdays it's a common repair.
sites.fastspring.com/autodiagnosticsandpublishing/instant/ClimateControlTroubleshooter
R22 refrigerant not gone yet, its fading down, and by the way the replacement it's R410A. Let me explain you something my friend, the right name for the chemical for air conditioning or refrigeration is not FREON. The name freon was just a brand of the bottle the use to contain such chemical, just like toyota, nissan, Ford, Chevrolet..all of then makes cars. The brand of bottle freon use to make many kinds of the chemical called REFRIGERANT. Them each bottle comes with the name of wish refrigerant come inside, besides, every bottle, depending on the color determine the king of refrigerant. Like green R22, Pink R410A, and etc; but always check the label.
Our RUclips Channel ADPTraining is an AUTOMOTIVE channel. R22 or it's newest substitute R410A is NOT USED IN CARS. As far as the name, here in the USA it's Generic, but wrong name is Freon. As you pointed out, yes it is a BRAND name and it's proper name is Refrigerant. In the USA R12 is now illegal and not seen. R134 has taken over, probably to be replaced soon. Thank you for commenting.
R134 is been use even on big chillers,,,I use to go to a chemical plant in 1995 that I remember was using R134...
But regardless, when in when to schools and different trainings the use to teach us about cars too Mr ADP Training.... Your curse it's just reaching the surface, but thanks anyways for trying.
I know R410A is the substitute, and I dont like it, blend refrigerant. Who doesn't know that? Even my 2 year old son dough...
I encourage you to update your software for cars...its way back behind...sorry but it's the truth.
Software download
Google automotive diagnostics and publishing
I have a 30 psi on the low side and 150 psi on the high side. ac works alright but its not real cold. any ideas? this is on a 1999 dodge ram 1500
Richard Cowtails check your cabin filter. If your filter is dirty all the air cant get through. The pressures are normal
Great video... Great learning... :)
Can you please tell that how much is the velocity of air of mass flow rate at the outlet of automotive AC ducts.. I know it may vary but in general what would be the RANGE for highest speeds and lowest speeds at the outlet..
Thanks.. :) :)
The writing on the screen doesn't even match the annoying computer voice and also that software should have inputs for temperature and humidity otherwise the numbers are not right
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There is no average low side pressure and there is no average high side pressure for all vehicles. The pressures are all over the gauges depending whether it’s 65° outside or 95° outside they would be totally different. If it has a fixed displacement compressor or a variable displacement compressor whether it’s a scroll compressor or a rotary vane compressor or a electric compressor with electronics sensor feedback. Example some vehicles older ones fix compressor expansion valve have 12 psi is their normal average low side pressure other vehicles somewhere around 31 psi is a normal low side pressure while others may have 45 to 50 psi on the low side and considered normal so you tell me what is normal. ( no such thing as normal for all vehicles) same goes for the high side I have three vehicles sitting here in my shop one high side is 118 psi I’m looking at the second vehicle on the gauge is the high sides 170 psi looking at the third vehicle it’s 250 psi and all of them are normal for those particular vehicles with the type of AC system they have.
Thank you. For more training, videos, software and equipment visit my site.
autodiagnosticsandpublishing.com/
Oh no, not robo voice!
No