Hello Bruce! Just wanted to thank you. I had to prepare for an interview in 7 days after not knowing anything. I found your videos and watch them several times, took notes and even listened on my ipod on my way to work. My interview was great! They said they were truly impressed of all I learned in such a short time. Keep posting videos. You are awesome!!
First off, love the channel, and your easy to understand repairs and methods. THANK YOU AND KEEP THEM COMING. My 2002 Merc Benz S430 (W220) A/C stopped working after I replaced the windshield wiper hose (with the heater wire/ cable inside). The unit small red light is on indicating the system works, but will not blow cold air. The clutch does engage, on then off, constantly. The typical reset feature/ trick doesn't work for whatever this error is currently. I checked the relays/ switched and replaced them as well. Assuming the system may have been low on refrigerant, I filled it with what it took in, which appeared to be almost two full "tall" cans of AC Pro. Reset the system and the air came on "absolutely freezing cold" for about two minutes then shut off again. After resetting and attempting to make it stay on, it wouldn't reset anymore after four attempts. I noticed a clear liquid had leaked from the bottom center of the car down the driveway to the rear of the car, no smell or color, but thicker than water. The next day, with the engine running and the air refilled and reset once more, I heard a loud hissing and bursting flow of air or spray from under the hood, front drivers side for about 40 seconds then stopped. I believe it was a pressure relief vale of some sort !!! Scared the &%$#@^& %$#%^&%#@ out of me to be exact. The clutch still engages, on then off, constantly. Whats wrong with the cars AC ????? What would you recommend I check or replace???? No AC for the past four months now...
In my car. after switch ON A.C. after some time compressor stop stuck, clutch trying to engage but compressor stop moving. Engine speed also reduce. Clutch start ON and off. If we stop the car for 1 hour and again we try to switch ON A.C. , it will again Star working give, in side car A.C. give cooling but after 2 minutes again compressor stuck and clutch start ON and OFF. Please give some suggestions.
Well I just learned something. check the gauge first with the car off. He said he was expecting to see 120 to 125 PSI with the engine off and new immediately when it was 80 PSI on the lo and high side that he had a leak. Good stuff!
One significant omission in your video. Albeit a critical issue for accuracy Ambient air temperature and percentage of humidity to calculate accurate pressure readings.
The only way I know to do it is with the addition of another tool. Harbor Freight sells them. It is a venturi type air vacuum pump that hooks to the air compressor and to the middle like of the gauge set. The air from the compressor flows through and sucks the air out of the ac. The thing is it works a lot better with a more powerful compressor than the one shown in the video. I had one, a wasp made a nest in the pipe and clogged it all up. They are only 15 dollars and make a hell of a noise.
The service port is right above ac Compressor. There was no way to bleed off pressure after injecting dye. So when you disconnect connection of dye can you will spray a little dye in general área where you disconnected it. You didnt follow the whole LP line nor HP lines throughout system. Isnt it possible that dye you seen on compresor is residue from over spray from when you disconnected bottle? Your hands had dye on them so it did spray. If you would have cleaned área after disconnection then i would fully agree. Not 100% Compressor was leaking
5:27 "this could indicate a fully open expansion valve or a faulty orifice tube, or more likely, a faulty compressor or clutch" it could also indicate that a piano fell on your vehicle, causing it to function in a way different than intended. Alternatively, there have been reports of loose white rhinoceros driving their horns at full force through a/c condensers lately. They seem to be attracted to the refrigerant smell if you have a leak, though this has not been confirmed. Who knows...
So basically with engine not running....on the high and low side....."if" u have any liquid refrigerant in your system u will have approximately the same pressure as the temperature is outside in Fahrenheit. So if it is 80F outside you should have 80psi. If it is 100F u will have 100psi. This is s good indication what shape your system is to start with.
5:10 Does anybody know what brand gauges are being shown for this short period on this video? They look nice and very clear and easy to read. Cannot find them on Autozone's website.
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. i replaced o-rings and put back on. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
@1morelle...compressor the Guy with moderate low low but extremely low high: orfice/expansion valve or clogged evaporator. Both perhaps. Even if compressor, u have to replace it.
I checked to make sure I didn't have the video playing at 2x speed because every few words he would say legit sounded like... "And then you checktoseeifthisisworkingproperly and if so youwanttogoaheadandcheck under here with a flashlight..."😂 But anyway, thanks for the video!
Is that ac fan supposed to run constantly or only when the freon gets to a certain temperature ? Would the fan ever not be running when car is running ... good video
شــُـكـرً لــّـك : ،Thank you very much Very Excellent Lesson. Keep Up. I'm an Aircraft Engineer and QC. Inspector, Yet,,, I benefited very much from your instructions, so thank you again and again. I’m very grateful for you . An Arab, Engineer
My a/c start up only when i push the engine up to very high RPM for a short moment, after that all is working fine- normal also in parking position than the a/c work normal , with no high running rpm motor. Compressor and clutch is running, freon exact fill what the sticker says and no leak, all testet. What do think is wrong? E valve - drier, compressor but he runn after puhing tha gas padel quick for hight rpm.....? thanks all here
also did you mention all the problems that can cause ac not to work? or are there more...I did have a bad ac fuse connection once that was an easy fix..thanks
I am confused is the AC pressure different for different vehicles? You say it should be around 125 psi and I found a differnt video that says it should be around 70 to 90 psi with engine off.. and read some forums of people saying it should be around 50psi on both with the engine off... who is right.. who is wrong? So my 325i 2002 bmw should be reading about 125 psi on both the low and high with engine off?
Hi ok I did everything right but my AC does not cycle off ? It's a 2011 Altima 2.5 and reading are 33 and 160 on a 80 degree day ? Blows 80% cold air , low line sweats .. when I unplug the high plug on the car side it's under lots of pressure ? It shoots out some freon is that normal ?
That's normal. Smaller A/C systems are going to run at slightly lower pressures than say a full size truck. You should be determining if your A/C is cooling correctly by first checking the temp coming out of the vent, some basic A/C systems do not cycle on/off like they used to, when the A/C switch is on, they run constantly, and sweating is normal.
With AC compressor running my guages read low side-15psi high side 375psi and warm air. When cooling fan kicks on low side 40psi high side 220 psi. How can cooling fan affect AC psi?
When I accelerate the car at idle when gauges are hooked on my low side drops and clutch turns off? Then it turns back up and jumps up into the 90 200 PSI down back 250 I have no idea I think it may be a bad clutch or condenser.D you know what this is can you help me out this would really be appreciated thank you and having this problem for months now and I can't figure it out.
Resting pressures closely match outside temperatures NOT 120psi. Unless you live in Death Valley. Normal pressures 30-40 low side low side and 2x-2.5 x outside temperature high side while operating
This is a good video! Most everyone never mentions engine off readings. Since watching this I always check for restrictions with engine off readings or sometimes I may run it and see how long it takes for both hi and low to balance out after the engine has been cut off. I have a truck I put a used compressor, a new orifice and a used dryer on. I vacuumed it down an hour and recharged it. The very best vent temp I can get out of it on a hot day is about 64 degrees F which is better than no AC at all. Is it possible that a new dryer would fix this system or is it likely that a new compressor and dryer will fix it? I'd like to know how important it is to replace the dryer every single time the system is cracked open.
Hello sir, my car's ac cooling properly but humming when compressor engaged and rpm is low or idle. This hum loud in cabin, not outside. But when increase rpm, humming decreased. What's the problem sir?
Sir I am experiencing a problem with my Toyota Yaris (2008) Aiconditioning. When I am running around 60 - 80 kph (let say 2 for 2 minutes) the AC blows hot air in the air oulet, and when I reduce my acceleration or in Idle position the AC works perfect. I already recharge/flush system with fresh 134A, replaced the receiver/drier. All gauges are working fine during idle position of the car (low and high side is perfect). My compressor is only 9 months old so i dont see any issues with my compressor. Hope you can share your experience with me. I am from Qatar. thanks.
+mel roguel You probably have an overcharged system because you did not put the right amount of 134A. It is likely you have an overcharged system. What are your low side readings when idling?
+Be enlightened when idiling the low side readings are (42) & high side is (270). I reduced the freon charge to (30 to 200) but still the Compressor is disengaging when my car is running in high speed (60-80 kph), but in idle the cooling is perfect. We suspect that there is some electronic faults signaling the compressor to disengage. Hope you can help us find the answer. thanks
b 4 checking 4 leak u should check the a/c presure first. if is low then u should look 4 any leaks my friend. iseen u doing everything wrong it first u said that everything looked good then u said that it was a leak around the conpresor
Help. My A/C isn't working and I'm melting. Have checked freon, fuses, anything else I could think of. It's a 2010 Chevy Equinox. I can hear the compressor turning on and off too.
While a/c system pressures aren't static, they are based on ambient temperature and operational status of the system I would say from those readings that you have a leak and are in fact low on charge. At this point you should introduce dye into the system to find the leak, have the system reclaimed, replace the leaking part and the accumulator, place the entire system under a vacuum, seal the system under vacuum to check for potential leaks, and then recharge it with fresh oil and r134a.
Waqas Zafar you'll have more volume, so you'll have to recalculate how much oil and refrigerant to use, or the system won't cool as well add it did. get yourself a set of guages for cheap to at least find the proper gas pressure amzn.to/2Msc9ya
About a year ago I had my compressor replaced because it was faulty. Now I am having problems again and my AC is blowing warm. I hooked up a gauge set and I am getting 45 psi on the low side and 150 psi on the high side after recharging, but the readings fluctuate when the AC is running (low fluctuates between 35-50 psi and high side fluctuates between about 140-160 psi) compressor was running the whole time and NOT cycling. I tried recharging it but it is still not very cold. I put red dye stop leak in the system and it did not help and I do not notice any leaks. What is the problem? I hope the compressor hasn't failed yet again.
Ryan Toomey, dye is only meant to show leaks. It does not stop leaks. If the low side pressure is too high and the high side pressure is too low, it usually means the orifice tube/expansion valve is worn. It has a small opening through which the high pressure side "squirts" the compressed refrigerant. If the small opening is worn and thus no longer small, the system is not able to compress the refrigerant sufficiently (the compressor compresses from one side of the tube, while the expansion valve resists at the other end, allowing the compressor to build pressure). This will mean having the system evacuated, and then going fishing for the expansion valve somewhere under the dash and replacing it, then evacuating and recharging the system.
Andrew Pearce He is referring to cans of A/C red dye (not UV) with stop leak additive in them that they sell at walmart and parts stores. The liquid chemical when added in the system thru the can, travels in the a/c system and when it comes out anywhere there is a leak, and mixes with ambient air oxygen, it solidifies in a mass to plug the hole. It is a quick fix that will cause problems in the long run if the person ever opens the system for a repair and for shops that might service and evacuate. It usually causes more problems than the owner originally had so I advise people to stay away from putting that crap in their cars and just add straight UV dye only, get a black light and glasses, and find the leak and fix it right.
Sounds like too much refrigerant and it pushing past the expansion valve/orphice tube. It also may have damaged is part as well, too much refrigerant/oil will blow thru and make larger holes in the valves and it can't hold back like it was designed to do anymore.
Andrew Pearce you say going under dash looking for expansion value... I have a chevy truck..I just replaced orifice tube easy access under hood near dryer....do ac systems have one or the other? I was told if you have orif ice tube there's no expansion valve...thanks
Will Stevenson Will: I just changed the compressor and the Evaporator on my Honda CR-V (2004) Looked at changing the Condenser and the Thermal Expansion Valve but, requires pulling out ECM + PCM, cutting dash support, Etc. I opted for reverse flushing the system and Cleaning lines. The Motor Manual explained that a new condenser should require about 1 and 1/3 oz of oil and the compressor requires about 1 oz of oil added before connection. Make sure that the compressor is not pre-filled and that it does not need to be drained before adding new oil. (Factory Pre Fill) Use new o-rings on all items that have been taken apart and add a bit of leak detector fluid if you think it necessary. Again about Compressor 1 oz- Condenser -1 and 1/3oz for the system. I used 3 oz can from car parts store and the system is happy now with 44 degrees out of vents and AC gauges in the 225 high and 35 low readings. There is also a in line filter that can be added to catch trash that may be in system. (added just before compressor connection) Which may slow down system failures if you are concerned about debris in the lines or condenser. Modern Auto AC systems almost always require a new condenser if you change the compressor. Good luck.
didn't mention my situation 30 low 150 hi and doesn't change when turned on . expansion valve can be stuck on open or closed but it was not mentioned sooo phewey
Never wear a neck tie when working on a vehicle. Even though it completes the look of most coveralls, this practice can have potentially hazardous consequences. Please take a moment to think of your loved ones.
True as a medical student I rotated through the medical examiner's office for a month. I saw people killed when their clothing pulled them into machinery and were crushed to death . one guy I remember was killed by a stamp printing press when he was pulled in up to his mid chest and crushed and this was back when you had to lick the stamps. As a urologist , I have also seen blue jeans get caught in a PTO and wring all the skin that would normally be concealed by your underwear right off. It only takes a split second
Kevin Sanders MD hello, There is a company across the street that we also serviced, we were on the roof working on the A/C SYSTEM, heard sirens, the other company, there was a young man with LONG HAIR and was PARCIALLY SCALPED YOU COULD SEE IT ,,,,, OBVIOUSLY GOT HIS HAIR COUGHT UP INTO MACHENERY, all I can say is it looked gross . thought of an Indian movie . Veers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I had a vw bug years ago that did that. After it quit cooling if I shut it off for 5 or 10 minutes it would cool for a little while. It had moisture in the system and ice crystals would form inside the system and block the expansion valve.( very small opening like .008 inch) where the pressure drops which causes the cooling. When the ice melts, it cools again. The fix for me was to evacuate the system, vacumn pump it down for an hour. I don't remember if I actually replaced the expansion valve and receiver/ dryer or not. I don't think I did. I usually apply a heat lamp(trouble light w/incandescent light bulb) to the rec/dryer to help drive out the moisture while vacuuming the system down). Then charged the system and it never messed up again. I miss that '73 VW Bug. Good luck
A little help fella's, I've got a 2002 Chevy Avalanche Z-71 I went to use my ac for the first time this year and the air was hot, I went to a mechanic he did a few tests and determined that I was low on refrigerent, He added two cans ($60) and I had cold air 48 degrees, Two days later however I'm back to hot air again ?? I'm looking at this ac pro stuff that is supposed to seal any leaks I may have , what are your thoughts first on my problem and then second on the ac pro product--- Thanks ,
That stuff activates when it contacts air. If your system has air in it you would seal up your whole system. AND if you ever had to open the system for any repair it will glue everything solid. NEVER USE IT! It may create a "IRREPARABLE CORE" fee.
I am pretty much mechanically savvy, but this seems a bit pricy. Sure, I could get dye into the system, but I don't know if I could spot the right part... Then I would not be sure how to replace them unless they just unbolt. I also am not sure how to reclaim, but my system holds only 1.1lbs of HFC-134a (and is probably low). A can of computer duster is the same stuff, so I would just swap the part and the system would be empty then right? If the accumulator don't leak, why replace it too?
I wish he explained more readings on the gauges because my gauges are reading Low Side: high pressure... High side: low pressure. In any case it is No BUENO.... SMH
Hello Bruce!
Just wanted to thank you.
I had to prepare for an interview in 7 days after not knowing anything. I found your videos and watch them several times, took notes and even listened on my ipod on my way to work. My interview was great! They said they were truly impressed of all I learned in such a short time.
Keep posting videos. You are awesome!!
First off, love the channel, and your easy to understand repairs and methods. THANK YOU AND KEEP THEM COMING. My 2002 Merc Benz S430 (W220) A/C stopped working after I replaced the windshield wiper hose (with the heater wire/ cable inside). The unit small red light is on indicating the system works, but will not blow cold air. The clutch does engage, on then off, constantly. The typical reset feature/ trick doesn't work for whatever this error is currently. I checked the relays/ switched and replaced them as well. Assuming the system may have been low on refrigerant, I filled it with what it took in, which appeared to be almost two full "tall" cans of AC Pro. Reset the system and the air came on "absolutely freezing cold" for about two minutes then shut off again. After resetting and attempting to make it stay on, it wouldn't reset anymore after four attempts. I noticed a clear liquid had leaked from the bottom center of the car down the driveway to the rear of the car, no smell or color, but thicker than water.
The next day, with the engine running and the air refilled and reset once more, I heard a loud hissing and bursting flow of air or spray from under the hood, front drivers side for about 40 seconds then stopped. I believe it was a pressure relief vale of some sort !!! Scared the &%$#@^& %$#%^&%#@ out of me to be exact. The clutch still engages, on then off, constantly. Whats wrong with the cars AC ????? What would you recommend I check or replace???? No AC for the past four months now...
In my car. after switch ON A.C. after some time compressor stop stuck, clutch trying to engage but compressor stop moving. Engine speed also reduce. Clutch start ON and off. If we stop the car for 1 hour and again we try to switch ON A.C. , it will again Star working give, in side car A.C. give cooling but after 2 minutes again compressor stuck and clutch start ON and OFF. Please give some suggestions.
Well I just learned something. check the gauge first with the car off. He said he was expecting to see 120 to 125 PSI with the engine off and new immediately when it was 80 PSI on the lo and high side that he had a leak. Good stuff!
What a great video hahah the old mans voice at the end is very soothing
I enjoyed the variety of safety glasses.
One significant omission in your video. Albeit a critical issue for accuracy
Ambient air temperature and percentage of humidity to calculate accurate pressure readings.
The only way I know to do it is with the addition of another tool. Harbor Freight sells them. It is a venturi type air vacuum pump that hooks to the air compressor and to the middle like of the gauge set. The air from the compressor flows through and sucks the air out of the ac. The thing is it works a lot better with a more powerful compressor than the one shown in the video. I had one, a wasp made a nest in the pipe and clogged it all up. They are only 15 dollars and make a hell of a noise.
The service port is right above ac Compressor. There was no way to bleed off pressure after injecting dye. So when you disconnect connection of dye can you will spray a little dye in general área where you disconnected it. You didnt follow the whole LP line nor HP lines throughout system. Isnt it possible that dye you seen on compresor is residue from over spray from when you disconnected bottle? Your hands had dye on them so it did spray. If you would have cleaned área after disconnection then i would fully agree. Not 100% Compressor was leaking
5:27 "this could indicate a fully open expansion valve or a faulty orifice tube, or more likely, a faulty compressor or clutch"
it could also indicate that a piano fell on your vehicle, causing it to function in a way different than intended. Alternatively, there have been reports of loose white rhinoceros driving their horns at full force through a/c condensers lately. They seem to be attracted to the refrigerant smell if you have a leak, though this has not been confirmed. Who knows...
Nice explanation of various meter readings and what they mean.
So basically with engine not running....on the high and low side....."if" u have any liquid refrigerant in your system u will have approximately the same pressure as the temperature is outside in Fahrenheit. So if it is 80F outside you should have 80psi. If it is 100F u will have 100psi. This is s good indication what shape your system is to start with.
could u pls upload a video about ac switches condensor fan low pressure and high pressure switch circuits., and the electrical sides of ac.?
Great Video! Now I know what readings mean.
Great presentation and learned a lot thanks for the tips Bruce.
Stop up
I wanna watch this video all day
5:10 Does anybody know what brand gauges are being shown for this short period on this video? They look nice and very clear and easy to read. Cannot find them on Autozone's website.
JRobert111111 i just use these and they work great amzn.to/2Msc9ya
My 08 legacy had a compressor put in and the high side was very high and low side was bout normal..is it the expansion valve?
More than likely
Dude, I don't usually comment, but let's just say I had to like and comment this video!
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. i replaced o-rings and put back on. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
@1morelle...compressor the Guy with moderate low low but extremely low high: orfice/expansion valve or clogged evaporator. Both perhaps. Even if compressor, u have to replace it.
You said at 4:51, it is properly charged when it is between 20-30 PSI on low side but at
5:12 on low side the psi is over 40PSi so it s not normal
was that a comp leak or when you took pipe off low side you didnt clean off residue .?????
I checked to make sure I didn't have the video playing at 2x speed because every few words he would say legit sounded like...
"And then you checktoseeifthisisworkingproperly and if so youwanttogoaheadandcheck under here with a flashlight..."😂 But anyway, thanks for the video!
Is that ac fan supposed to run constantly or only when the freon gets to a certain temperature ? Would the fan ever not be running when car is running ... good video
Obadiah Yedidya , are you still using freon? what year is your car?
OffGridNorthwest ---> 134-a is being used in a 2006, thks for reply.
شــُـكـرً لــّـك :
،Thank you very much
Very Excellent Lesson.
Keep Up.
I'm an Aircraft Engineer and QC. Inspector, Yet,,,
I benefited very much from your instructions,
so thank you again and again.
I’m very grateful for you
. An Arab, Engineer
My a/c start up only when i push the engine up to very high RPM for a short moment, after that all is working fine- normal also in parking position than the a/c work normal , with no high running rpm motor. Compressor and clutch is running, freon exact fill what the sticker says and no leak, all testet. What do think is wrong? E valve - drier, compressor but he runn after puhing tha gas padel quick for hight rpm.....? thanks all here
WEAK CLUTCH COIL, LOW VOLTAGE TO CLUTCH COIL, AIR GAP TO WIDE BETWEEN CLUTCH HUB AND PULLEY.
You should remove the gauge from the red protective plastic tube before measuring.
Does AutoZone loan a/c recovery machines?
Get in da zone autozone!
My 04 gt surged bad when ac is on
where does the problem of a compressor with the clutch that operates intermittently? Thank you
Bruce, that was a great video
also did you mention all the problems that can cause ac not to work? or are there more...I did have a bad ac fuse connection once that was an easy fix..thanks
I love how the voiceover is warning how refrigerant will harm your skin and immediately they show the host handling the can with no gloves
This video helps me understand why that disguised cop was smashing the windows in the AutoZone at Minneapolis.
Great video thank you
I am confused is the AC pressure different for different vehicles? You say it should be around 125 psi and I found a differnt video that says it should be around 70 to 90 psi with engine off.. and read some forums of people saying it should be around 50psi on both with the engine off... who is right.. who is wrong? So my 325i 2002 bmw should be reading about 125 psi on both the low and high with engine off?
C D I think 125 psi is normal for this truck. It will be different for your car. I'm assuming that it should be close to 125 though
it depends on the current ambient aor temperature. get a good set of guages amzn.to/2Msc9ya and check the service manual for exact info
hi how about if the static pressure is not equal? like 50 psi on low side and 180 psi on high side, outside temperature is 70 F..what is causing this?
Hi ok I did everything right but my AC does not cycle off ? It's a 2011 Altima 2.5 and reading are 33 and 160 on a 80 degree day ? Blows 80% cold air , low line sweats .. when I unplug the high plug on the car side it's under lots of pressure ? It shoots out some freon is that normal ?
That's normal. Smaller A/C systems are going to run at slightly lower pressures than say a full size truck. You should be determining if your A/C is cooling correctly by first checking the temp coming out of the vent, some basic A/C systems do not cycle on/off like they used to, when the A/C switch is on, they run constantly, and sweating is normal.
If it's hot out the system may run continuously.
Good video thanks for sharing
With AC compressor running my guages read low side-15psi high side 375psi and warm air. When cooling fan kicks on low side 40psi high side 220 psi. How can cooling fan affect AC psi?
When I accelerate the car at idle when gauges are hooked on my low side drops and clutch turns off? Then it turns back up and jumps up into the 90 200 PSI down back 250 I have no idea I think it may be a bad clutch or condenser.D you know what this is can you help me out this would really be appreciated thank you and having this problem for months now and I can't figure it out.
I've had that same little compressor for years now
Resting pressures closely match outside temperatures NOT 120psi.
Unless you live in Death Valley.
Normal pressures 30-40 low side low side and 2x-2.5 x outside temperature high side while operating
134a
Thanks for your posting.
wonderful lecture thanks
Great clip thank you!
Love this video
Definitely Autozone quality training lol...
And a quality youtube reply with that!
This is a good video! Most everyone never mentions engine off readings. Since watching this I always check for restrictions with engine off readings or sometimes I may run it and see how long it takes for both hi and low to balance out after the engine has been cut off.
I have a truck I put a used compressor, a new orifice and a used dryer on. I vacuumed it down an hour and recharged it. The very best vent temp I can get out of it on a hot day is about 64 degrees F which is better than no AC at all.
Is it possible that a new dryer would fix this system or is it likely that a new compressor and dryer will fix it?
I'd like to know how important it is to replace the dryer every single time the system is cracked open.
Hello sir, my car's ac cooling properly but humming when compressor engaged and rpm is low or idle. This hum loud in cabin, not outside. But when increase rpm, humming decreased. What's the problem sir?
Sir I am experiencing a problem with my Toyota Yaris (2008) Aiconditioning. When I am running around 60 - 80 kph (let say 2 for 2 minutes) the AC blows hot air in the air oulet, and when I reduce my acceleration or in Idle position the AC works perfect.
I already recharge/flush system with fresh 134A, replaced the receiver/drier. All gauges are working fine during idle position of the car (low and high side is perfect). My compressor is only 9 months old so i dont see any issues with my compressor.
Hope you can share your experience with me. I am from Qatar. thanks.
+mel roguel You probably have an overcharged system because you did not put the right amount of 134A. It is likely you have an overcharged system. What are your low side readings when idling?
+Be enlightened when idiling the low side readings are (42) & high side is (270). I reduced the freon charge to (30 to 200) but still the Compressor is disengaging when my car is running in high speed (60-80 kph), but in idle the cooling is perfect. We suspect that there is some electronic faults signaling the compressor to disengage. Hope you can help us find the answer. thanks
1:02 what is it?
1:58 Always make sure to consult your "rapair manual" lol
At 4:53, when Bruce showed 20-30 psi low and 200-300 psi high, will this be higher due to ambient outside air temperature?
b 4 checking 4 leak u should check the a/c presure first. if is low then u should look 4 any leaks my friend. iseen u doing everything wrong it first u said that everything looked good then u said that it was a leak around the conpresor
Good video!!
Need to remove the thermometer from it's sleeve.
haha i thought i was the only one who notice that
It’s made to be used in the sleeve
Wrong.
I noticed that
I noticed that first thing lol was wondering if anyone else did
Help. My A/C isn't working and I'm melting. Have checked freon, fuses, anything else I could think of. It's a 2010 Chevy Equinox. I can hear the compressor turning on and off too.
@John Smithy thanks but no need. I figured it out. It was the actuator
@John Smithy thanks but already fixed it myself.
What should be the required amount of refrigerant oil in an A/C system. How is it measured?
I seen others weight the freon and peg oil cans as they are charging system
Thank you.
so when does he add that OAT to pressure???
You mean to find the delta t across the evaporator?
While a/c system pressures aren't static, they are based on ambient temperature and operational status of the system I would say from those readings that you have a leak and are in fact low on charge. At this point you should introduce dye into the system to find the leak, have the system reclaimed, replace the leaking part and the accumulator, place the entire system under a vacuum, seal the system under vacuum to check for potential leaks, and then recharge it with fresh oil and r134a.
If we increase the size of evaporator what will happen to the cooling
Waqas Zafar you'll have more volume, so you'll have to recalculate how much oil and refrigerant to use, or the system won't cool as well add it did. get yourself a set of guages for cheap to at least find the proper gas pressure amzn.to/2Msc9ya
thank for you video.
About a year ago I had my compressor replaced because it was faulty. Now I am having problems again and my AC is blowing warm. I hooked up a gauge set and I am getting 45 psi on the low side and 150 psi on the high side after recharging, but the readings fluctuate when the AC is running (low fluctuates between 35-50 psi and high side fluctuates between about 140-160 psi) compressor was running the whole time and NOT cycling. I tried recharging it but it is still not very cold. I put red dye stop leak in the system and it did not help and I do not notice any leaks. What is the problem? I hope the compressor hasn't failed yet again.
Ryan Toomey, dye is only meant to show leaks. It does not stop leaks. If the low side pressure is too high and the high side pressure is too low, it usually means the orifice tube/expansion valve is worn. It has a small opening through which the high pressure side "squirts" the compressed refrigerant. If the small opening is worn and thus no longer small, the system is not able to compress the refrigerant sufficiently (the compressor compresses from one side of the tube, while the expansion valve resists at the other end, allowing the compressor to build pressure).
This will mean having the system evacuated, and then going fishing for the expansion valve somewhere under the dash and replacing it, then evacuating and recharging the system.
Andrew Pearce He is referring to cans of A/C red dye (not UV) with stop leak additive in them that they sell at walmart and parts stores. The liquid chemical when added in the system thru the can, travels in the a/c system and when it comes out anywhere there is a leak, and mixes with ambient air oxygen, it solidifies in a mass to plug the hole. It is a quick fix that will cause problems in the long run if the person ever opens the system for a repair and for shops that might service and evacuate. It usually causes more problems than the owner originally had so I advise people to stay away from putting that crap in their cars and just add straight UV dye only, get a black light and glasses, and find the leak and fix it right.
+Ryan Toomey You've probably got too much refrigerant in your AC system. Try dropping your low side pressure to the 25-30 psi range.
Sounds like too much refrigerant and it pushing past the expansion valve/orphice tube. It also may have damaged is part as well, too much refrigerant/oil will blow thru and make larger holes in the valves and it can't hold back like it was designed to do anymore.
Andrew Pearce you say going under dash looking for expansion value... I have a chevy truck..I just replaced orifice tube easy access under hood near dryer....do ac systems have one or the other? I was told if you have orif ice tube there's no expansion valve...thanks
Thanks!
Very Very nice. Thank you
Im getting 30-50 low and 275 high max.
when changing the accumulator on ac do you add how much oil?
yes you have to ..
Will Stevenson Will: I just changed the compressor and the Evaporator on my Honda CR-V (2004) Looked at changing the Condenser and the Thermal Expansion Valve but, requires pulling out ECM + PCM, cutting dash support, Etc. I opted for reverse flushing the system and Cleaning lines. The Motor Manual explained that a new condenser should require about 1 and 1/3 oz of oil and the compressor requires about 1 oz of oil added before connection. Make sure that the compressor is not pre-filled and that it does not need to be drained before adding new oil. (Factory Pre Fill) Use new o-rings on all items that have been taken apart and add a bit of leak detector fluid if you think it necessary.
Again about Compressor 1 oz- Condenser -1 and 1/3oz for the system. I used 3 oz can from car parts store and the system is happy now with 44 degrees out of vents and AC gauges in the 225 high and 35 low readings. There is also a in line filter that can be added to catch trash that may be in system. (added just before compressor connection) Which may slow down system failures if you are concerned about debris in the lines or condenser. Modern Auto AC systems almost always require a new condenser if you change the compressor. Good luck.
my truck has an orifice tube ...does it also have an expansion valve? thanks
You have one or the other only.
Ben Byam yeah..thax..
roadstar499 if it's a Tahoe or suburban with front and rear ac
roadstar499 if you have an aux evaporator then you could possibly have both. Orifice tube for the front evap and TXV for the aux evap core
Oriface tube also called a cap tube.
Great vid
Good morning
I really find this interesting but not so helpful because you don't show me the damage parts .
Thanks
My car over heat when i turn the a.c. On
what could be the problem
Is it the fan ?
Looked at their site and they don't offer any of the AC service tools he shows here for sale or their loaner tool program.
0:53 What's wrong with it?
didn't mention my situation 30 low 150 hi and doesn't change when turned on . expansion valve can be stuck on open or closed but it was not mentioned sooo phewey
is the compressor connected to a relay or fuse?
low side pressure goes to zero or lower high side at 250 93 ford?? what is wrong
Plugged expansion valve/orphice tube... assuming everything else is connected and working properly
I tell you what, this is a good video
Thanks for the kind words! We're glad we could help out.
To check the temp turn off recirculated air & Low Fan
The reason they tell you not to do that is someone has actually done that.
Never wear a neck tie when working on a vehicle. Even though it completes the look of most coveralls, this practice can have potentially hazardous consequences. Please take a moment to think of your loved ones.
Michael Block But if I take my tie off I'll just look like another greezey mechanic. ...And clip ons are for hacks!
Lmao
Please take off all rings and jewelry also. Especially necklaces or pendants
True as a medical student I rotated through the medical examiner's office for a month. I saw people killed when their clothing pulled them into machinery and were crushed to death . one guy I remember was killed by a stamp printing press when he was pulled in up to his mid chest and crushed and this was back when you had to lick the stamps. As a urologist , I have also seen blue jeans get caught in a PTO and wring all the skin that would normally be concealed by your underwear right off. It only takes a split second
Kevin Sanders MD hello, There is a company across the street that we also serviced, we were on the roof working on the A/C SYSTEM, heard sirens, the other company, there was a young man with LONG HAIR and was PARCIALLY SCALPED YOU COULD SEE IT ,,,,, OBVIOUSLY GOT HIS HAIR COUGHT UP INTO MACHENERY, all I can say is it looked gross . thought of an Indian movie .
Veers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
My a/c is cold for 10 min. then gets warm - where do I go from here....any reply helpful 2009 Honda civic
I had a vw bug years ago that did that. After it quit cooling if I shut it off for 5 or 10 minutes it would cool for a little while. It had moisture in the system and ice crystals would form inside the system and block the expansion valve.( very small opening like .008 inch) where the pressure drops which causes the cooling. When the ice melts, it cools again. The fix for me was to evacuate the system, vacumn pump it down for an hour. I don't remember if I actually replaced the expansion valve and receiver/ dryer or not. I don't think I did. I usually apply a heat lamp(trouble light w/incandescent light bulb) to the rec/dryer to help drive out the moisture while vacuuming the system down). Then charged the system and it never messed up again. I miss that '73 VW Bug. Good luck
Dis a good video!
what if low is reading 30-35 psi and high reading 50-55 psi?
A little help fella's, I've got a 2002 Chevy Avalanche Z-71 I went to use my ac for the first time this year and the air was hot, I went to a mechanic he did a few tests and determined that I was low on refrigerent, He added two cans ($60) and I had cold air 48 degrees, Two days later however I'm back to hot air again ?? I'm looking at this ac pro stuff that is supposed to seal any leaks I may have , what are your thoughts first on my problem and then second on the ac pro product--- Thanks ,
That stuff activates when it contacts air. If your system has air in it you would seal up your whole system. AND if you ever had to open the system for any repair it will glue everything solid. NEVER USE IT! It may create a "IRREPARABLE CORE" fee.
03 dodge durango 4.7L 86f outside temp lowside 15-20psi highside 150-155psi any ideas?
Sounds like you are low on refrigerant. At that temperature both your high and low side pressures should be a bit higher.
EXCELLENT
Great 👍😘
good work.
Love from my heart
changing ac condenser 2009 scion
Nice to see Bill Oddie is doing ok after the Goodies got taken off TV !
I am pretty much mechanically savvy, but this seems a bit pricy. Sure, I could get dye into the system, but I don't know if I could spot the right part... Then I would not be sure how to replace them unless they just unbolt. I also am not sure how to reclaim, but my system holds only 1.1lbs of HFC-134a (and is probably low). A can of computer duster is the same stuff, so I would just swap the part and the system would be empty then right? If the accumulator don't leak, why replace it too?
So the Zone can make more money that's why. Lol
Engine off. Temp 25C. Low side is about 25PSI and high side is 0. What does it mean?
i have a guess, expansion valve block?
Thank you. I'll check and let you know.
wow, very cool !
its all instructive for me and hepl in my hobby
Didn’t he found UV dye in the plug because that’s where he plugged the connector of the Uv dye can?
I wish he explained more readings on the gauges because my gauges are reading Low Side: high pressure... High side: low pressure. In any case it is No BUENO.... SMH
Id low side and high side same pressures?
Compressor or expansion valve