My first Train Blueprint video has how to make ramps: ruclips.net/video/ScSpf1NHp-4/видео.html The Second video has how to make supports for the train tracks and how to blueprint roundabouts: ruclips.net/video/VTvISQ_868Y/видео.html Thanks for watching!
Just a note on the different blueprint designers, you cannot load a blueprint from a different size blueprint editor, however if you are trying to load the blueprint into a BIGGER editor, such as going from a mk1 to a mk2, you can simply place the blueprint in the mk2 editor just as if you were placing the blueprint normally, save that blueprint - then delete the old one. Now you have a version that is in the mk2 editor and can be loaded/edited in it.
Thank you for your work! I used your first guide to make my tracks in my current world, and they worked great. I also used your methods to make roadways as well.
@3:20 This is a great tip for any blueprints you intend to be tiled together! Obviously trains, but also belt and pipe busses, or even foundation grids.
That's a great point! I should do this more for foundation grids, especially with water extractors not playing nice when you delete part but not all of the blueprint. Thanks!
Haven't been able to check your videos out past few weeks, but dang you are blowing up! Last video I watched you were under 400 subscribers and now at 1.2k and 12k views on your video. Congrats and well deserved!
You can migrate blueprints between blueprinters by placing blueprint build (like you'd place it in the world) in a different blueprinter and saving under a new name. You can also combine blueprints like that or just nudge it within the blueprinter if you left too little room on one side.
I place blueprints in blueprints all the time. Makes it possible to move a blueprint around within your design area, and should make it possible to “edit” a blueprint in a larger designer.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned (anywhere), is that you can actually build 2-3 meters OUTSIDE the BP designer by using zoop mode. So if there's a bit that clips outside and it's giving you grief about it, if you place a piece inside the legal area and zoop out by 2, it will let you place the piece in the place you originally wanted to place it. It will overlap outside the legal area, but will still count. I use that to use the full 5x5 space for curves in the MK2 designer. They snap together just as well, and the only real issue is that you can't place it in the same sized designer manually (loading works fine), and if you have sidewalls, they might be a bit difficult to make on the inside of the curve if you can't zoop them. I have a 5 foundation wide road (2 lanes and a median), with a pair of trains on top (centered above the 2 lanes), and that zoop trick has saved me tons of headaches. Not sure if it's a common thing or not, but I found it out by accident while building those aforementioned road pieces.
That is really cool and good to know! There are definitely some funky things you can do with the blueprints but I didn’t know that one. I know there’s a way to save stuff that’s outside of the designer completely, I was able to blueprint whole roundabouts and the only thing in the actual designer is a single center foundation. I’ll have to play around with this new info. Thank you!
@@moo121 Yeah, I think it's a little bit different than the BP offset method (I think that's what it's called), as it only lets you get that one extra foundation a few meters out, but those few meters are a huge help. Not too sure how many pieces it works with, but I know for sure that foundations, pillars, and beams (the big 3) can manage it. Things like barriers are hit and miss. It's kind of a random draw if it lets you. I'm not sure if it's intended or not, but it definitely makes the designer a little bit more forgiving than most people really think.
That definitely makes it a bit more forgiving especially with the smaller one. I'm sure there are some really cool things you can do to take advantage of it, but just it giving a little more leeway make things easier. Thanks for the info and ideas!
For those 10 degree turns, I bet you could improve the apparent alignment of the vertical beams and beam connectors by first placing your second foundation at a 5 degree rotation, using the corners of that to create the vertical beams, then deleting that foundation and putting in the 10 degree rotated foundation. Then the vertical beams and the connectors placed on those would split the difference in both position and rotation compared to the first and second final foundations.
You can edit a blueprint in a bigger printer. Simply place the blueprint in the printer like you would if you were placing it in the world. Save the new version.
So as a note for anyone who's annoyed by only being able to load blueprints in the same version it was created in.. Just place that blueprint in the large one and save it again with the same name. It will overwrite the BP file as a mk2 or mk3 this time
Good video, I enjoyed watching your tips. A problem on my side remains making upwards curving sections, which seems to force me to use ramps, which is a sub ideal solution. Any other thing I could do there?
Thank you! Curving it and going up is definitely a tricky thing to accomplish. I have seen videos about making them with ramps as a base but then beams on top to smooth it out. It seemed like a lot of work so I've never tried. If I need to go up a lot of elevation I usually use spiral blueprints but that just goes straight up. I'll give this some thought, it would be nice to have a blueprint that did both turn and go up or down.
@@moo121 Indeed, spirals also seem to be the way to go. I did experiment with ramps, but a smooth result is (sadly) impossible that way. Anyways, thanks for the feedback :D.
Great video! I also really appreciated the free downloads for these. However, I am a bit lost I suppose when it comes to placing them aligned with the world grid. Whenever I use the blueprints supplied in your google drive, I start on the world grid and end up misaligned by a few meters, both N/S and E/W. Is this a skill issue?
Thank you so much! It's definitely not you, I wish I could have figured out a way to make them line up with the world grid better. What I usually do is work backwards from the end point so that any overlap happens with the blueprints. Its easier to merge them together then it is trying to get it to end nicely with the world grid, unfortunately.
@@moo121 How do you mean? Start at the end and treat it as the opposite direction I understand, but do you mean that there is going to be an inherent offset that you deal with at the start using the rails themselves? Btw, I can't remember from the video, but do you start AND end with the start pieces, or do you end with a (cont) piece? I would really like to be consistently aligned with the world grid if at all possible before/after the turn, idk if it is something you've covered in a video before?
Yes to the offset, unfortunately. You will be able to get them back to the right angle but it will rarely be exactly on the world grid. I usually end with a continued piece but honestly I just use whatever fits/looks the best. Train line building tends to be a lot of trail and error for me. Many of my trains wind around the world and keeping them on the world grid felt limiting for me personally. I totally understand preferring it though, it does make life a lot easier. You are definitely not alone and a number of people have commented a desire for this. I'll definitely give it some thought and see if I can come up with some decent BPs for a future video. Good luck!
With your single track 10 degree bend, how do you deal with it not aligning with the grid? I'm not sure how to make it look good and also reattach to the grid at some point. Great video, thanks!
Thank you! That is an excellent question. I tend to go with 2 different methods depending on the situation. I think the easiest way to make it look good is to build out from the grid on the other end and merge the two train tracks instead of merging the train track with the world grid foundations. If I do merge the train tracks at the foundations of say a new train station, there are a couple tricks to smooth it out. If you use asphalt almost all the Z fighting is eliminated when clipping foundations into each other. So if you use that instead of the grip metal it blends together well. The other way is a bit trickier and that requires using a pillar and a road barrier to drop the height of one of the foundations by just a few pixels and that will eliminate the Z fighting as well. I hope that helps, and thank you for a future video idea :) Good luck!
yeah same, would really like to use curves, but definitely want to end up on the world grid at the end of the turn... since i haven't foudn a way (yet) to do that, i will just use the default 3x3 or 5x5 90 deg turn...
Hi, could you do me a favor? I try to build a factory housing in the shape of a D8 (octaeder - 8 sided dice) that stands on its tip. But I don't know how. With roof tiles it doesn't work, the angle is way too flat. I think, it could be done with beams, but how do I fit walls (solid and with glass or windows onto/into it)? Do you have an idea or maybe could try it yourself and show us a video on that? If you don't know what an 8sided dice looks like, you will find plenty pictures in the web, also I can post a link in the comments, if you want. Thank you for your help!!
Hello, thanks for the comment. This is a really interesting idea. I had to think about it for a little bit. You are right, the 4m roofs are still very shallow and it would need to be a giant building, I once did a pyramid with them and it took up more than a 1/4 of the dune desert. That leaves the 8m walls which might work. If you start with the '8m Tilted Concave Walls' that should give you the bottom base to work from and then the 8m tilted walls to build up the sides. The only issue is that there are no windows or roofs that are tilted that much. I don't know of a way to manipulate them to fit it without using mods. I'm pretty sure there are mods that will change the angle of walls. I'll keep thinking about how you could do it in vanilla though. Good luck!
I have blueprints with train tracks on them. Do they or don't they connect with eachother? It seems like most blueprints only have the layout/design for where the traintracks should go, but without the tracks on them.
As far as I know they still do not connect. Things like belts, pipes and train tracks need the connections to be made manually between blueprints. I've seen people make 2 versions of the blueprints, one with the tracks and one without. That way you can alternate them and then connect the tracks. This will still save you some time and effort.
I haven't downloaded your blueprint yet , But I still have 1 question I was making my own blueprints for trains tracks, the problem I was facing was the elevated sections, when I create ramps in blueprint , the first one is connecting normally most of the time little nudge here and their but I can't keep connecting them easily, snapping doesn't work in both default and blueprint mode, in blueprint mode it keeps snapping to the bottom of the blueprint bounding box and in default its way to difficult to just align first and then nudge them little. i have tried multiple blueprints from satisfactory calculator do you use ramps in trains blueprint and if so how did you solve this snapping issue? i will be trying your blueprints on weekend though.
That is an excellent question! The ramp blueprints are definitely harder to place. The trick I use is to place some temporary walls to give yourself something to aim the huge bounding box at. I have a quick example in this video: ruclips.net/video/ScSpf1NHp-4/видео.htmlsi=Ivoz_c66RtPbPhVi&t=1420 It should take you right to the timestamp. Good luck!
I have a problem with this. I'm making a 3-wide road. I've tested both 5deg approach, and the 10deg start+cont approach and neither of them aligns with the grid when I do a 90 or 180 deg turn. It's always off around half a foundation. Am I doing something wrong?
Hey thanks for the great question. You aren’t doing anything wrong. This is probably the biggest downside of using this method is it’s very hard to get it to line up with the world grid. Sometimes you can use a single straight piece in the middle and adjust clipping into it to change the overall length. Or use it at the end, clip it halfway through the last curve section to make up for the missing half foundation. I’m going to brainstorm some ways to do this for a future video, thanks for the idea! Good luck!
@@moo121 thanks, good to hear I'm not the only one with the issue. I've seen some vids about connecting different grids and it seems that some creative blending is the way to go. Thanks for the great vid!
My first Train Blueprint video has how to make ramps:
ruclips.net/video/ScSpf1NHp-4/видео.html
The Second video has how to make supports for the train tracks and how to blueprint roundabouts:
ruclips.net/video/VTvISQ_868Y/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
Just a note on the different blueprint designers, you cannot load a blueprint from a different size blueprint editor, however if you are trying to load the blueprint into a BIGGER editor, such as going from a mk1 to a mk2, you can simply place the blueprint in the mk2 editor just as if you were placing the blueprint normally, save that blueprint - then delete the old one. Now you have a version that is in the mk2 editor and can be loaded/edited in it.
That’s a great tip, thank you!
@@moo121 no problem :)
I would assume that was the intention
Thank you for your work! I used your first guide to make my tracks in my current world, and they worked great. I also used your methods to make roadways as well.
I’m so glad you found it useful. Thank you!
Thank you! I've been using the methods from your first videos and they work very well. This update looks great!
Thank you so much! I’m happy they helped!
Press 'T' to get rid of the HUD?!? You never cease to blow my mind, Moo. Another great video, as always!
Thank you so much! Always great to see your name, hope you are doing well and enjoying 1.0 2MM!
A cow and giraffe walk into a bar .... 😅
I downloaded your blueprints, totally saved my life on my train network. Thanks a lot for giving us for free.
Glad you like them!
Probably a stupid question. Where is the link to your blueprints? Subscribed because your explanations are concise and very clear.
@3:20 This is a great tip for any blueprints you intend to be tiled together! Obviously trains, but also belt and pipe busses, or even foundation grids.
That's a great point! I should do this more for foundation grids, especially with water extractors not playing nice when you delete part but not all of the blueprint. Thanks!
Haven't been able to check your videos out past few weeks, but dang you are blowing up! Last video I watched you were under 400 subscribers and now at 1.2k and 12k views on your video. Congrats and well deserved!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that!
I did the whole map rail system using your old video just to have the updated guide 3 hours after finishing.
Was fun
Oh no, sounds like I was a few days late. I hope it wasn’t too bad! Good luck with the rest of the playthrough!
Thanks for the great video!
You can migrate blueprints between blueprinters by placing blueprint build (like you'd place it in the world) in a different blueprinter and saving under a new name. You can also combine blueprints like that or just nudge it within the blueprinter if you left too little room on one side.
subbed! I need trains too and have been fighting for my LIFE to make a blueprint that works
Thanks I appreciate that! Im glad you like them!
I place blueprints in blueprints all the time. Makes it possible to move a blueprint around within your design area, and should make it possible to “edit” a blueprint in a larger designer.
That’s a great tip, thanks!
One thing I haven't seen mentioned (anywhere), is that you can actually build 2-3 meters OUTSIDE the BP designer by using zoop mode. So if there's a bit that clips outside and it's giving you grief about it, if you place a piece inside the legal area and zoop out by 2, it will let you place the piece in the place you originally wanted to place it. It will overlap outside the legal area, but will still count.
I use that to use the full 5x5 space for curves in the MK2 designer. They snap together just as well, and the only real issue is that you can't place it in the same sized designer manually (loading works fine), and if you have sidewalls, they might be a bit difficult to make on the inside of the curve if you can't zoop them.
I have a 5 foundation wide road (2 lanes and a median), with a pair of trains on top (centered above the 2 lanes), and that zoop trick has saved me tons of headaches.
Not sure if it's a common thing or not, but I found it out by accident while building those aforementioned road pieces.
That is really cool and good to know! There are definitely some funky things you can do with the blueprints but I didn’t know that one. I know there’s a way to save stuff that’s outside of the designer completely, I was able to blueprint whole roundabouts and the only thing in the actual designer is a single center foundation.
I’ll have to play around with this new info. Thank you!
@@moo121 Yeah, I think it's a little bit different than the BP offset method (I think that's what it's called), as it only lets you get that one extra foundation a few meters out, but those few meters are a huge help.
Not too sure how many pieces it works with, but I know for sure that foundations, pillars, and beams (the big 3) can manage it. Things like barriers are hit and miss. It's kind of a random draw if it lets you.
I'm not sure if it's intended or not, but it definitely makes the designer a little bit more forgiving than most people really think.
That definitely makes it a bit more forgiving especially with the smaller one. I'm sure there are some really cool things you can do to take advantage of it, but just it giving a little more leeway make things easier. Thanks for the info and ideas!
best video explaining curves too
Glad you liked it!
For those 10 degree turns, I bet you could improve the apparent alignment of the vertical beams and beam connectors by first placing your second foundation at a 5 degree rotation, using the corners of that to create the vertical beams, then deleting that foundation and putting in the 10 degree rotated foundation. Then the vertical beams and the connectors placed on those would split the difference in both position and rotation compared to the first and second final foundations.
ooh I like that! That's a really good idea!
Where's the hills?!?!?!
You know, like "Where's the beef?!?!?!"
Pretty cool, Moo!
LOL! Thank you!
Thanks !
Nice video, thanks!
Shapez 2 music in the background? ❤
Thank you!
Yes! I love the Shapez 2 music. When I saw one track named ‘Trains Go Choooo’ I knew I had to put it in this video lol
Came to add a plus one to the Shapez 2 music!
You can edit a blueprint in a bigger printer.
Simply place the blueprint in the printer like you would if you were placing it in the world. Save the new version.
So as a note for anyone who's annoyed by only being able to load blueprints in the same version it was created in..
Just place that blueprint in the large one and save it again with the same name. It will overwrite the BP file as a mk2 or mk3 this time
That’s a fantastic tip! Thank you!
Good video, I enjoyed watching your tips. A problem on my side remains making upwards curving sections, which seems to force me to use ramps, which is a sub ideal solution. Any other thing I could do there?
Thank you! Curving it and going up is definitely a tricky thing to accomplish. I have seen videos about making them with ramps as a base but then beams on top to smooth it out. It seemed like a lot of work so I've never tried. If I need to go up a lot of elevation I usually use spiral blueprints but that just goes straight up. I'll give this some thought, it would be nice to have a blueprint that did both turn and go up or down.
@@moo121 Indeed, spirals also seem to be the way to go. I did experiment with ramps, but a smooth result is (sadly) impossible that way.
Anyways, thanks for the feedback :D.
Great video! I also really appreciated the free downloads for these. However, I am a bit lost I suppose when it comes to placing them aligned with the world grid. Whenever I use the blueprints supplied in your google drive, I start on the world grid and end up misaligned by a few meters, both N/S and E/W. Is this a skill issue?
Thank you so much! It's definitely not you, I wish I could have figured out a way to make them line up with the world grid better. What I usually do is work backwards from the end point so that any overlap happens with the blueprints. Its easier to merge them together then it is trying to get it to end nicely with the world grid, unfortunately.
@@moo121 How do you mean? Start at the end and treat it as the opposite direction I understand, but do you mean that there is going to be an inherent offset that you deal with at the start using the rails themselves?
Btw, I can't remember from the video, but do you start AND end with the start pieces, or do you end with a (cont) piece? I would really like to be consistently aligned with the world grid if at all possible before/after the turn, idk if it is something you've covered in a video before?
Yes to the offset, unfortunately. You will be able to get them back to the right angle but it will rarely be exactly on the world grid. I usually end with a continued piece but honestly I just use whatever fits/looks the best. Train line building tends to be a lot of trail and error for me.
Many of my trains wind around the world and keeping them on the world grid felt limiting for me personally. I totally understand preferring it though, it does make life a lot easier. You are definitely not alone and a number of people have commented a desire for this. I'll definitely give it some thought and see if I can come up with some decent BPs for a future video. Good luck!
With your single track 10 degree bend, how do you deal with it not aligning with the grid? I'm not sure how to make it look good and also reattach to the grid at some point. Great video, thanks!
Thank you! That is an excellent question. I tend to go with 2 different methods depending on the situation. I think the easiest way to make it look good is to build out from the grid on the other end and merge the two train tracks instead of merging the train track with the world grid foundations. If I do merge the train tracks at the foundations of say a new train station, there are a couple tricks to smooth it out. If you use asphalt almost all the Z fighting is eliminated when clipping foundations into each other. So if you use that instead of the grip metal it blends together well. The other way is a bit trickier and that requires using a pillar and a road barrier to drop the height of one of the foundations by just a few pixels and that will eliminate the Z fighting as well.
I hope that helps, and thank you for a future video idea :)
Good luck!
yeah same, would really like to use curves, but definitely want to end up on the world grid at the end of the turn... since i haven't foudn a way (yet) to do that, i will just use the default 3x3 or 5x5 90 deg turn...
That is totally understandable. Keeping everything on the world grid makes life a lot easier. And it keeps it looking nice and clean.
Hi, could you do me a favor? I try to build a factory housing in the shape of a D8 (octaeder - 8 sided dice) that stands on its tip. But I don't know how. With roof tiles it doesn't work, the angle is way too flat. I think, it could be done with beams, but how do I fit walls (solid and with glass or windows onto/into it)?
Do you have an idea or maybe could try it yourself and show us a video on that? If you don't know what an 8sided dice looks like, you will find plenty pictures in the web, also I can post a link in the comments, if you want.
Thank you for your help!!
Hello, thanks for the comment. This is a really interesting idea. I had to think about it for a little bit. You are right, the 4m roofs are still very shallow and it would need to be a giant building, I once did a pyramid with them and it took up more than a 1/4 of the dune desert. That leaves the 8m walls which might work. If you start with the '8m Tilted Concave Walls' that should give you the bottom base to work from and then the 8m tilted walls to build up the sides. The only issue is that there are no windows or roofs that are tilted that much. I don't know of a way to manipulate them to fit it without using mods. I'm pretty sure there are mods that will change the angle of walls. I'll keep thinking about how you could do it in vanilla though. Good luck!
Curves too tight with double rails will also cause the trains to collide even though they are on different tracks.
That is an excellent point! I totally forgot that was a thing lol
I have blueprints with train tracks on them. Do they or don't they connect with eachother? It seems like most blueprints only have the layout/design for where the traintracks should go, but without the tracks on them.
As far as I know they still do not connect. Things like belts, pipes and train tracks need the connections to be made manually between blueprints. I've seen people make 2 versions of the blueprints, one with the tracks and one without. That way you can alternate them and then connect the tracks. This will still save you some time and effort.
I haven't downloaded your blueprint yet , But I still have 1 question
I was making my own blueprints for trains tracks, the problem I was facing was the elevated sections, when I create ramps in blueprint , the first one is connecting normally most of the time little nudge here and their but I can't keep connecting them easily, snapping doesn't work in both default and blueprint mode, in blueprint mode it keeps snapping to the bottom of the blueprint bounding box and in default its way to difficult to just align first and then nudge them little.
i have tried multiple blueprints from satisfactory calculator
do you use ramps in trains blueprint and if so how did you solve this snapping issue?
i will be trying your blueprints on weekend though.
That is an excellent question! The ramp blueprints are definitely harder to place. The trick I use is to place some temporary walls to give yourself something to aim the huge bounding box at. I have a quick example in this video:
ruclips.net/video/ScSpf1NHp-4/видео.htmlsi=Ivoz_c66RtPbPhVi&t=1420
It should take you right to the timestamp.
Good luck!
@@moo121 yeah thats a good and simple solution.
I have a problem with this. I'm making a 3-wide road. I've tested both 5deg approach, and the 10deg start+cont approach and neither of them aligns with the grid when I do a 90 or 180 deg turn. It's always off around half a foundation. Am I doing something wrong?
Hey thanks for the great question. You aren’t doing anything wrong. This is probably the biggest downside of using this method is it’s very hard to get it to line up with the world grid. Sometimes you can use a single straight piece in the middle and adjust clipping into it to change the overall length. Or use it at the end, clip it halfway through the last curve section to make up for the missing half foundation.
I’m going to brainstorm some ways to do this for a future video, thanks for the idea! Good luck!
@@moo121 thanks, good to hear I'm not the only one with the issue. I've seen some vids about connecting different grids and it seems that some creative blending is the way to go. Thanks for the great vid!
Is it possible to end the curve and have a straight track come out before a full 90 degree turn?
Absolutely! It most likely won’t snap in Blueprint mode but Default should work.
Came here to learn how to blueprint curved rails, but video suggests to build them manually )
26 mins :gun: :head:
Jesus your keyboard is as loud as your voice. Did you put a mic just for that? Use a quiet keyboard or a proper mic for making videos.
This takes to long, shit video
Maybe tik-tok might be more your speed, zoomer.