REVISIT - PS4 Slim BLOD
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2020
- Hi, this is a REVISIT video on the PlayStation 4 which has the blue flashing light fault. After reading the comments on the previous 'trying to fix' video I attempt to prove what is causing the problem. This video doesn't show the fix, I am just trying to pinpoint the failure.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. 
Хобби
Great patience and perseverance, I would’ve thrown that board so far I would’ve been entered for the world frisbee championships 👍
😂
Dam
Haha same here
Even though technically it was a fail. Your perseverance and commitment just show the dedication you have. Nice work and please never stop trying.
Wouldn't have imagined that APU would be that hard to get off. Thanks for sharing your experiences with us, even when you can't fix it.
it comes off effortlessly if done correctly.
That must have been tough to take Vince, but nobody can fault the effort you put in to it, you are an inspiration to all of us mate.
The area around the APU chip may have gotten overheated to the point that there may be a microscopic crack in a trace or the board along a related circuit.
Proving the fault is the second best thing other than fixing it. Good job Vince. Also you air station is a surface mount device rework station which means other than caps and resistors or a legged chip it really cant handle it this APU is a great example of needing a re flow station.
For bigger ground plane chips like that you really need more consistent heat like preheating the board and hotter hot air. As well as masking off areas with thermal tape so the heat doesn’t soak into the surrounding board as much
Vince you a braver man than me taking apart a working console to fault find a faulty console
Even though you have had success with this in the past
All the best of luck mate I've been watching you for year's now on RUclips
Great job going to that length - you've proven the fault! Remember these chips get super super hot. The amount of power they consume is very high, it's totally possible for shorts to occur. It could be that the regulator that supplies it failed, and passed the input voltage straight into the APU - causing the APU short. The other thing that crossed my mind (before you removed the APU) - if you get a short scenario like this, you could try powering a specific power rail with bench PSU - limit current to say 1A, and feel temperature of caps / components. If a cap had been the cause you could have found it that way, either using freezer spray or IPA to see where it clears first etc. In this case that APU would have eaten the full 1A and probably got hot or maybe burned up a trace. For that reason its perhaps better to start with a lower current on the PSU (eg. 250mA, then 0.5A) etc.
That's a really high level testing. Have you ever did something like this? I would love to watch it...
I watched a video recently on this on a laptop repair from Adamant IT ruclips.net/video/EWuzmIz7hOE/видео.html interesting watch!
CPUs (or GPUs and APUs) die at random. It's the nature of silicon. They have a random life and might stop working at any moments. It goes from seconds to decades, really interesting stuff !
Heat makes things worse. At lot worse. These game consoles run hot. APUs fail regularly.
excellent vid, i ran out of my amtech flux and using the same chipquik flux, no comparison, going back to amtech. keep up the great vids!
Not just that, with the process / manufacture of these things the yeild quality has to be only so so sorta like a lucky dip like most components ;).
You got my hopes up with a revisit so soon. I thought you'd got the fan spinning! :)
I know, I wanted to see it spin so much. Sorry mate :-)
Vince you really are the man, love you’re commitment and passion 👍
It's "your"
You can check this without desoldering components. Supply this capacitor with voltage. Set 1V and start with 300 mA then go slowly to 3A something will heat up on board and you will know what is shortage. Try not to go higher than 1V. 1V is safe for all components on board.
I enjoy watching these videos keep it up mate
This felt like Torture Porn for Electronics about the time the chip turned red and the caps began falling off lol.
I do love your videos such patience and helped me out so much
Great video as usual! Don't understand any of it but still end up watching the whole way through 😂. Keep it up! 👏
Nice video even if u did not fix . It help us learn a lot. These APUs are super sensitive to surges and things of that sort.
Vince you are the best person in the world. I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS.
You could inject 1 Volt into the line at max amps and see if the APU gets hot 1 volt should be save for any power rail, great video 😊
Thanks AR. I need to start experimenting with that. I have my new power supply where I can control the Amps so hopefully I can use it in some upcoming videos. Cheers mate :-)
How inject 1volt into line
@@mohamedshaker7396 you can solder a wire and inject 1v from a power bench supply
'the patience of Job' has now officially been updated to 'the patience of Vince'
That was kind of gut wrenching but informative. Good job.
Making soup at half past midnight, bread or toast.... in comes votre toast ... decision is made. Keep up the good work fella and stay safe Vince!
You can get specialized hot air nozzles for BGA / QFP / PLCC type ICs.
Two basic types, a big square nozzle, or 4 smaller rectangular nozzles that line up with the edges of the chip.
The later is what you probably needed for this APU, direct the heat to the edges so it goes underneath the chip.
I love your videos I learn a lot
Cannot wait to tell my future high school teacher that does this stuff all of this.
Great video Vince- in the future, I might repair my own stuff! If I do, I might as well make my own videos of it too.
I Wonder, on a so large chip, would the flux actualy hinder the air from reaching the middle solder balls?
I was watching a channel called HDD Recovery today and wow, he reballed a control chip like a pro using solder paste on the board side and his method of reballing the chip made me think of you m8 All he used was a hot air station, a generic solder paste mask, some solder paste and some solder to create the balls on the chip and he got 100% connection so easily.
HDD Recovery Services, he does amazing work, I was very impressed with the use of the solder paste, definitely something I'd expect from Vince 👍😁.
@@SAZodia I would love vince to get a proper rework station so he can remove those chips properly. The problem with the APU is that it will blister before it comes off because the heat is so sporadic and unpredictable, hence taking 15 minutes to remove and pulling up traces
Cheers, I will check him out :-)
link to his channel mate
Hey Vince, you might have a bit better luck removing chips if you preheat the entire board first. that entire board is acting like a heatsink and by the time you are reaching a temp high enough to melt the solder, you have put in so much localized heat that it is damaging the processor and nearby components. just a thought. keep up the awesome vids mate.
And another video lovely surprise thank you 🙏
Looked like the top of the APU package was also covered in SMD caps. Those could have been shorted. If they were on top it means they either wouldn't fit on the die or they produced excess heat.
Not fixable most likely but it could have been SMD components on the package of APU were bad rather than the APU silicon.
Love u mate Vince ur my fave RUclips channel
At the time a lot of electronics were using the lead free solder which was a nightmare for electronics. Heat was not so much a factor as it was just poor for maintaining connections.
What happened to your ESR meter Vince That will read across the capacitor only and most times you don't need to pull capacitors off if they are good.
Great video mate... I would assume now since those point we're going to HDMI Port... So it might be that the current backed from the tv maybe... Bcz it happened to my ps4 once and it just made huge sound... And my PS4 turned off... Also my tv turned off... It was sony led tv as well... Lucky my PS4 and tv weren't damaged permanently... They they work perfectly fine even to this date
What about the mini chips on the main one and what’s under the shinny part in the middle where the thermal paste goes
This video was great and makes complete sense. Whenever I'm doing a HDMI port or chip repair I know I have a loose pin or bridge because when I put it back together to test i usually get the BLOD then I recheck my work and always there is a bridge or loose pin. I also got most of my knowledge from watching you figure things out. Thanks for the videos they are very helpful.
Good chance it was a cap on the apu pcb. Pretty impressed you got it off with you hot air fan
Glad you revisited it. You can't win 'em all, but at least you can get some sleep now ;)
Definitely!
I LOVE how you just dont give up until something is fixed... Wanna come help fix the Country Vince? Love, BoJO ;-)
Also worth mentioning that this particular chip consumes around 170W of power - consider the heat given off on a 100W incandescent bulb. Heat is always a bad thing in electronics, however these chips run crazy hot anyway!
They don’t run crazy hot if the heat sink and fan are working.
Yep. A failed APU. I think you got it right. May have been easier to remove if heated from bottom of board.
Nice of you to do this follow up, was interested what caused the blue light of death.. Also I'm wondering about your gear, could you tell us what stuff you are using?
Have you tried to use a cheap thermal camera or isopropyl alcohol to see where the short is? With the alcohol you just look to see where it evaporates the fastest. Luis Rossman shows how that works in one of his videos
Louis Rossman would flip his shit if he saw this haha ;)
probably!
@louisrossman
Louis Rossmann would be pissed of Sony not @My Mate Vince,
It's again a Big Design Flaw like back in 2006 to 2008.
The way the Cooling System of Sony Consoles are Designes is really Bad, The PlayStation 4 is literally screaming for Death...cooling through the Power Supply? Why would you do that, the most broken Part in all Devices is The Power Supply because the Capacitors are getting to hot...i'ts like you would try to cool something with a Hair Dryer, no wonder why so much PS4 Consoles are failing...(also PS3 Slim/Super Slim Consoles had the same issue)
He would have hissed like blackberry for not using enough flux and the wrong brand😂
@@Club_Michas I love how you say so many ps4 consoles are failing even though sony reported a >1% on original models. You probably saw 5 or 10 videos and thought this was a huge issue that happens 50% of the time
@My Mate VINCE
15:10 where did you get that no clean flux, i looked everywhere for the serial number and couldn't find it anywhere ??
Hey Vince I've got to the part where you were mentioning taking off the APU (and obviously cringed) but now I'm at the part where the southbridge is about to come off. Just to let you know that the southbridge isn't tied to the board and can be replaced if needed. You can pick them up on ebay for about £15 pre balled, or if you need any I can grab a couple off dead boards and reball them for you so they can be used in the future 😁
I do still personally think this was a southbridge issue not an APU issue. At least you gained valuable knowledge for the future though 😁 great video as always buddy
I have to ask is the APU married to the board?
Thanks Coder, handy to know that the Southbridge is not married. What's your thoughts on the short on that rail compared to no short on the good board? Maybe on your fixes, if you come across that newer version of the PS4 Slim with a bad HDMI port or something not related to BLOD, you could test that rail to see what it reads? Cheers for the offer of the reball Southbridge chips, nice one :-)
@@NiebaumCurran yes it's married to several other chips including eeprom and syscon amongst other things
@@Mymatevince personally I'd say given that the front usb wasnt working, coupled with a fan failure indicates simply a southbridge failure. I'd say the short may have possibly been down to low resistance and not actually be short. It is after all a cap on the APU. I do have a ps4 1200 series with a bad encoder chip here as well as a fully working slim which I could possibly take readings from. I could potentially install a bad MN864729 onto the slim and see if I get similar readings as you had if that would help you out?
Hi Vince, not sure if your gonna see this considering this is a year old video but reflowing / reballing the ram is something that could fix this. Its not a guarantee but its something ive seen fix the BLOD on a PS4 Slim before.
28:45 - the CPU on the original PS4 had just shy of 4 _billion_ transistors, that's a later model where the put the GPU on there, so along with the cache the are well over 4 _billion_ transistors on there!
and a single failure on just one of those will render the whole thing dead.
Don’t know if you still do this but just a good practice is to use the red probe on ground and the black probe on the components you’re measuring since you’ll work with lower numbers and it makes it easier to keep track of them
Vince is that crazy punk that we all need but don't deserve. Not all heroes wear capes, but some heroes shove probes in awkward and unexpected locations. LOL! 😜😄
I watched the entire first and 2nd vid😂 I was rooting for you. I suppose we're unlucky ass well. Our ps4 is maybe 2 yrs old, and doesn't get a lot of use compared to my nephews or gamers. It hadn't been played in a while but I bought the new assassin's creed for a Christmas present last week, after downloading or whatever, my husband played for about 10 min or so and the system shut down. Now when I press power the blue light comes on and the fan for a couple seconds, then powers off. Press power again, only a beep noise, no power. Press power again blue light, fan couple sec. SHUTS DOWN. I find it pathetic that so many have had this same issue from these garbage systems.
Great find.
thank you for all the awesome videos you have created. i would love for you to make a video on the equipment you are using and where did you purchase it. just to let you know, you're videos are helping me to stay sober and active. i appreciate all that you do and i hope you continue to make videos. YOU'RE NOT ONLY SHARING KNOWLEDGE BUT SAVING LIFES. you motivate me to keep up with my sobriety and to stay busy. once again, THANK YOU!! = )
He didn’t win the silicone lottery. Some chips just last longer than others.
Hi Vince keep up doing these fixing videos 👍👍 P.S you heard the PS5 if the PS5 is released make a video for beginners and also you heard about the xbox series x if xbox series x is released make a video for beginners I will keep watching your videos.🎮🎮📷📽
the resistance of the gpu cpu apu is small and this is ok, usually the crystal falls off the substrate, you need to solder the bga chips with the help of the bottom heating.
THAT BOARD IS TOAST!! 😱😱😅😅😂😂🤣🤣
Hi did you account the flashing lights of blue death ?
Great Video! Thank You. 😀
I hope that you can get a new PS4 board to replace the one that is not fixable.
Modern CPUs and GPUs suck down dozens of watts of power, but also need to run off of a very low voltage in order to not burn themselves up. If you have a 50 watt CPU core that runs off of a 1 volt supply, that means it's drawing 50 amperes.
Now a CPU or GPU is not a simple resistor, which means that the current draw will not increase steadily with voltage. There will come a point where it suddenly draws a lot more current. What's important here is that a multimeter must apply a voltage to the circuit it is measuring and then look at the current to determine its resistance. Your meter is assuming that the circuit is a simple resistor and just divides voltage by current--since a CPU or GPU is *not* a resistor, the resistance reading you get will vary depending on what that voltage is.
Now keeping that in mind I took my fluke 117 and used another meter to measure the voltage it outputs. In ohms mode it outputs 0.5 volts. In continuity mode it outputs *2.5 volts*. So if I were to use the continuity mode to measure across the power rail of a chip, it would essentially be trying to power the chip (since the chip probably runs off of less than two volts). So of course it will draw a ton of current and make the continuity buzzer go off.
Thanks RF, I will see what my meter outputs as I thought it only diode mode that it would output as high as that. Interesting, thank you :-)
In this instance wouldn't the APU on the working board have also tried to turn on, to give the same or similar readings to the suspected (hopefully fingers crossed) faulty APU. I am hoping that due to the difference in readings between the working and faulty board that this proved the chip was at fault but various comments have suggested otherwise :-)
@@Mymatevince Speaking of diode mode, if you're checking power rails you should generally see either a diode (0.5-1V) or open when measuring with reversed polarity. Forward polarity is more likely to look like a short.
There are exceptions of course but if you put your positive probe on ground and your negative probe on the power and you see 0.5-1V that means the power rail is probably not shorted.
After an evening watch the shower radio vid whilst disassembling a Soviet quartz watch for parts, I thought I would go onto World of Warcraft for a bit of zap and kablooey and another MMV vid appears aieeee Sod WoW as at moment is boring as congealing cheese on toast, fresh cup of Biscuit Brew tea and off we go. Would love to see another watch video, Vince's watch video got me into it all and now have a respected Soviet collection, my daughter on the other hand wants to find person who got me interested in it as I have covered every available nook, cubby and surface with.... watches, watch tools, watch parts and more watches hehehehe Cheers m8 :)
Haha, I have an interesting one to look at Ian which I think you will like. A mechanical Pedometer......Yes, like a stopwatch but counts steps, can't wait to get stuck in. I am hoping for success this time as I haven't had much success with any of the mechanical/automatic watches so far :-)
These boards are From diffrent series, i'm not 100% sure but, some of the first series of boards have the blod when they are busy for too long, second series was having this problem too, but it was a firmware issue.
PS: I DON'T KNOW English very good, so if there is a typo or something like this, please DON'T judge me.
PPS: sorry for some words beeing all upper-case but my Phone autocorrect is doing that.
My brother in law has fixed two sony bluray players recently. Both had a faulty diode in the power supply. Most of those components will be the cheapest they can get away with...
Would Mark of Mark fixes stuff be able to help you fix that or let him fix it just a suggestion.
Hey Vince, I just took my water damaged switch lite to a repair shop and they said something already shorted out and there’s nothing they can do. Do you think there’s anyway it’s still fixable or is it a lost cause?
It's fixable, but might be expensive.
Shorted components are replaceable.
Go see a better technician. Or take notes next time.
Jee Vince I was nearly going to call 999 there when I seen all that smoke. Mick 🤣🤣🤣👍🍻
Remember it's no longer 999. The improved emergency number is 0118 999 881 999 119 7253.
Haha. It was real hot. The whole room stunk !!! :-)
It could have acctually have been a power spike that fried the apu
yeah it probably is as it was going to the HDMI IC, its probably static electricity or a power spike imo
PlayStation: You will not have to worry about the YLOD on the PS4.
Also PlayStation: We changed the light to blue.😂
What temp did you use to remove South bridge?
If you wanna solder or remove those big chips, it's time to invest in the preheater. You can see in the reviews on my YT channel here in the playlist the one I'm using. And, thanks to it I have MUCH less hassle and can do the job.
Can you share a good APU supplier/stencil? I habe a slim that i wanted to fix, but cant find a good IC (EU)
i gotta ps4 yesterday but its a blod will a new board fix it
Motherboard: the Melter strikes back.
I was scared he will ignite the board.
If it was showing open then i would have lifted the apu for reballing. a short under the BGA is near impossible as a ps4 wouldnt go above 80 or 100c usually.
in this particular case, i would have injected a voltage (since it is a processor ,1V would be the max i would apply) hoping it could be one of the capacitors on top of the chip.
if you are tracing a short circuit in motherboards, its better you Zero Off the internal resistance of your probes when you short them(not sure if your DMM supports that) due to some of the power lines in the APU are less than 2ohms and this will lead you to think they are shorted. Remember, the APU is using low voltage but high current supply.
I just realized your DMM supports the Zeroing offset, the REL(triangle) button. Press this button when you short your probes to zero out the internal resistance.
That's why you should preheat the board with something to around 200°C and then apply the extra heat from the soldering station at max airflow, then the chip would come off easily.
There are a bunch of caps on top of the APU. Remove them, and check if the short remains.
Hello Vince, trying to fix the a ps4 with the same model as your, my is missing the resistor on pin 19 of the hdmi. would you mind measure the value of the resistor for me.
that resistor is locate between the hdmi sock pin 19 and hdmi ic pin 36, thanks Vince.
NVM -- I found it.
As a rule of thumb: Big copper traces are designed to deliver high currents. These traces are power supply lines for some power hungry chips like an APU.
Absolutely. A thin data trace would burn up on the spot if that much current flowed through it. And shorts are no laughing matter, as the current flowing through it will increase (the amount depends on the natural resistance along that line and how much of that natural resistance is knocked off with the short).
Vram and cpu capacitors run usually less than 1v so they often look Iike they are shorted or close enough to 0 ohm.
I smashed my Ps4 pro. 400 bucks down the drain. It was a top hit close to where the cooler. Fan is on the top left of it. It turns on and tries to Rev up. I can see the playstation logo turn up and then dissappear. Eventually it shows a screen that says its a ps4 storage issue. I checked it and most people say if it's clean and won't work it's most likely the HD storage. Could it be that a nice hard whack only broke the disk drive or is this just a general failure that pops up if the board etc is damaged. Any hints appreciated. I might save myself another 400 with a 50 bucks drive.
When the power button of my PS4 slim is pressed, the blue light shows for 30 seconds ( it doesn’t flash. Just a blue light) and switches off. I thought it was the APU? But could it be the power supply?
Vince, one thing to note is that :
Large traces (other than ground) => Power supply for a chip.
See those small black square components surrounded by smaller components ? Those aligned, fairly close to the APU.
These are switching power supply controllers. They convert the 12V to 1.x V needed by the chip(s).
The big trace starts there.
The reason the trace also went to the hdmi chip is that it is a shared (or main) power rail. The voltage source is shared between less power hungry components. What you got is a secondary voltage rail being shared to other components. The APU needs some of it, but not that much. It probably comes out of the lonely switching regulator.
Multiple aligned switching regulators are called phases. These are linked together to supply enough of a certain voltage. Up to 16 for high end computers. Those are main CPU power (1.x V), while the lonely one is probably 3.3V
Sorry for the English, I hope this helps you figure some things out. I'm no PlayStation 4 expert, but these things are fairly standard.
Also: Some APUs (or CPUs, chipset) are sometimes glued down so they don't move during soldering.
Thanks for the info :-)
For those big BGA chips you need bottom preheater and more power and area top heater, not more temperature because that is what kill the those chips if not dead yet
I've seen BLOD happen on these units when 1 or more ram chips go bad. saw TheCod3r take care of that problem by checking a thermal camera while the system was flashing the blue light and he could see one of the chips get much much hotter than the rest.
Such low resistance is normal for Gpu, Cpu power rails. But the short you found, was too low considering your leads resistance it was almost at zero + good board confirmed it. Its the same part of the circuit.
For any console problem {no I've never fixed a console before} I'd have what I would have done is simply buy a whole new motherboard to either put in the broken system or if there are good parts I'd just solder the good parts from the are board onto the old
"Downloading a golf game". Last Of Us 2?? 😂
I missed that reference
Oh lol
good one
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Out of curiosity did you guys check if this unit was under warranty before you decided to try the repairs yourself? A buddy of mine was about to throw his out and I asked him when he bought it, turns out it still had a week of warranty left and he was able to get a brand new PS4 lol.
one thing.. if you think a line that runs to a place you can not check is responsible for a short, cut the line before removing the balled chip. if the fault disappears when you cut the line, you know whatever is past that line is responsible. and if you are wrong, running a wire to reconnect the cut line is easier than reapplying a chip ..
That is a very good idea. I like it, thanks for sharing it :-)
You REALLY need a better hot air gun. I suggest getting the Quick 861DE (The 1200 watt model) I've been using it for a while now and it's really good and it's cheap compared to the other professional hot air guns.
What the best soldering iron for ever smaller motherboards like mobile phones ? Great work by the way 👍
wow it takes a longer patient i think theres a siminar to that even im a skilled tech i need that insrument too.swaping good parts my help too to find a def parts so easiy
Wish they would really start socketing CPU/GPU/APU in game consoles, but I suppose it's easier and cheaper to have it wave soldered. Makes it hard and more expensive to fix, which I suppose is what the console manufacturers are banking on, so you have to buy a new console when it fails.
You need a BGA rework station or at least pre-heater for such large BGAs Vince.
put 1v and amp on the line and check for sort.this is only way.nice video
my ps4 slim’s CPU is broken(overheated until it died) is there any possible way to fix it ?
helo bought ps4 with supposed hdmi damage but I oppened it up and had some water damage but no hdmi damage turns on and reads disks but no video maybe a resistor got shorted ? can someone help!?
Great video vince, :)
I’m having a severe issue with my white ps4 CUH-1216A purchased off eBay in February, warranty seals intact, opened the console myself to inspect it, after updating swapping hard drives nothing,
Dropped it into a local repair shop in UK they’ve kept it for months but just reposted it I’ve checked it over compared to when I sent it checked for shorts nothing.
The shops got it to play Rahman for hours and RUclips videos without crashing works online with 1 or 2 games it has the error C34878-0 not to sure what to do now Sony quoted £125 for another refurbished unit power supply fan and disc drive fine :) if you can let me know, if you’ll take it in for a video that will be perfect! Peace MKTEK :) cleaned it up best I can.