Hi Don, I'm not a mechanic by any means and by that I mean I had to buy basic hand tools from Harbor Freight just to think about doing this up grade. With that said and with your Kit it was a surprisingly easy up grade, everything came apart and back together just as you had described in the video. While i was in there I upgraded the Water Pump Thermostat Temp. Sending Unit and Radiator Hoses....No muss no fuss just trimmed the lower hose a little. Thanks for everything and I'll be ordering more parts soon.
Hi Don. Great little video. One l small thing you did not cover was to use silicone grease while installing hoses or in fact any rubber parts on to metal. Makes things way easier when later repairs have to be done. Just a thin smear is all that is needed,but the difference is huge. Installation is easier too. Glad you posted something new. Cheers.
Im starting a project of restoring a 1970 Eliminator that my dad bought new. I will be calling and ordering a lot! Great videos! I really appreciate seeing you level of knowledge and can see when I call Ill be ordering the right parts to take this car from a garage queen to a reliable driver in no time!
Love family cars I am the third generation to own my 67 cougar or should I say grandpa's 67 my son is already asking me when do I get a chance to own the car I told him most likely after I am dead
Wish I had watched this before ordering the aluminum radiator haha. I am building a 70 Torino and it is so hard to figure out which parts carry over from mustangs or cougars. Your seatbelt video was a life saver. Huge thanks for the quality videos!
Great video Don...I am going to upgrade my 69 Mustang 351 W...new engine bigger cam (2200 rpm convertor) Sanden AC... she overheats in slower traffic, so this video comes in handy. I will be ordering this upgrade from you guys. Thanks again
Just an FYI: most of the aluminum radiators out there are junk, we have only been able to find one line we would be willing to put into our cars: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/radiator-max-core-aluminum-20-289/302/351-68-69-w/o-ac-3-core-repro-1967-1967-mercury-cougar-/-1967-1969-ford-mustang.html. With that said, with the upgrades we suggest in this video, unless you are drag racing the car or something you should not need an aluminum radiator.
I’ve been restoring a 70 eliminator my dad bought new. It’s a CA car, when he put the coolant reservoir in he put it in the wheel well behind the right side headlights. Seems to have been a great place.
Thanks ! I just realized I have none of the support brackets that are supposed to be on my 68' coupe Mustang. I did however 2 yrs ago put in a clutch fan setup and OMG ... overheating issue GONE ! ... i have a 5 blade staggered one from Ford (can't tell you what year) but it works like a charm !
This style of fan will never completely stop spinning when the engine is on. If you notice at 20:11, Don is able to spin the fan by hand when the engine is not running, but there is still friction that will cause the fans to spin at a slower speed when the fan clutch is not fully engaged.
Have you ever used the Derale steel fans? I’m looking to going a severe duty clutch and Derale 20” fan on my 90 f250 with a 460BB looking for maximum air flow thanks for any advice
I am doing this mod on my '69 M code Mach 1. The holes in the radiator support do not line up as the 24" radiator is wider. How did you get around this? Fabricate mounts I guess?
The consensus from ClassicCougarCommunity.com on fan/shroud/radiator spacing is that the fan should be somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 way into the shroud and the leading edge of the fan blades should be 1" give or take from the radiator.
Well I'll be ordering these parts, I've got a 70 XR7 Convertible with a 351 4v I'm purchasing from Canada and it isn't going to like sitting at stop lights for 2 or 3 minutes in 110 to 115 degree Las Vegas heat. I know that much already.
I have the same setup and shroud but I feel like the shroud isn’t deep enough, my clutch fan is Barely a quarter way in, a good 2/3 if not 3/4 is outside the fan. And the shroud also has gaps on the top and bottom of the raditator
I need to move my radiator up a half inch.. trying to see if this is even possible. Either my motor mounts are too high, or my radiator mounts are too low. My fan is hitting the top of the fan shroud and just keeps causing all sorts of problems.
Are you using an original fan? We have heard of this with some aftermarket fans. We have OEM replacement motor mounts and radiator mounts, but that will only help if the issue is not an aftermarket fan. The wrong spacer could also possibly cause that. Not sure what year you have, selecting the year and updating the search will pare down the results: Motor Mounts: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=motor%20mount&Type=AND Radiator Mounts: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=radiator%20mounts&CatID=0 Fan Spacers: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=fan%20spacer&Type=AND Big-Block Fans (as suggested): 68-69 version - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c89fan.html 69-70 version - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c909fan.html Fan Clutches: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=Clutch%20Radiator%20Fan&Type=EXACT
Do you know how wide the big block fan is with clutch? I put a thicker radiator in than factory and i wanted to make sure it wont be too close to the radiator.
Mate you spent how much on all that gear? I spent $69 on a electric fan kept original radiator and my Windsor runs better and cooler than before it doesn't matter to me what's under the bonnet wrg to originality.
Best cooling problem I find is pulleys from wherever. No consideration of pulley ratio. That won't cause a problem. Other great one is a stuck valve in the radiator cap. As soon as you rev the engine, the upper hose collapses.
Did you say it's a 20 inch radiator now? I trying to cool my 66 mustang 347 w a/c i have 4 core 5 blade and runs 205 in az. Before ac install was never above 190
This car came factory with a 20" radiator, and we upgraded it to the 24" that AC / enhanced cooling equipped cars would have had from the factory on 67 and newer, as well as adding the shroud and 7 blade fan that came factory on the 68-70 390 / 427 / 428 cars (links to the needed parts are in the video description). Here is an article about installing the 68 24" radiator in a 66 Stang: www.motortrend.com/how-to/1801-upgrade-your-mustangs-cooling-by-fitting-a-24-inch-radiator/. Hope that helps.
on my 70 mustang coupe with a 398 stroker, I have a 24 inch wide 4 row radiator and aluminum heads and a high volume water pump and it still over heats. But, it is bored .060 over. it was a 351 when I started. I have installed a dual electric fan [same width] from a mercury mistake[mystique] to no avail. any suggestions? now I'll watch the video. thanks . My idles a little differently than yours. lol great video. I forward to my bro. he has 2 cougars.
So that's a Cleveland block correct? You probably need the restrictor plate. Clevelands originally came with a special thermostat. Over the years, they usually get replaced with a standard thermostat, and overheating problems occur. Just throw this restrictor in and it should help: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/waterrestrictplate.html Of course being bored .060 over is going to contribute to the issue, but it sounds like you're doing everything else right. Also not sure if you can use a shroud with the electric fans but that could help too.
I assume now that the 24" radiator only uses the lower and upper brackets for mounting and does not directly bolt to the radiator support like the 20".
I had a ‘67 XR7 with a 289 that I could never get anyone to solve my cooling problem. I suspect it must have had the tiny radiator. What a shame… after getting stranded three times on road trips, I gave up and traded it. 😩
We do offer new trans lines, but as long as the lines you have are in good shape you should be able to still use those. On most of those the connectors are not removable from the trans lines. If you are talking about the adapter that goes between the radiator and the trans lines, we do not have new ones of those, we only have good used ones. Here are the listings for the new lines/adapters: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=15890&SearchTerms=transmission%20cooling%20line&Type=AND
Hi Don, Great video. I have a 69 Mustang that needs a radiator and Fan etc. Motor is a 351 crate motor 450 HP. The company I got this motor from said I need to run a 4 core Alum. radiator. But I like the stock look better. The Mustang had a 20" radiator. Does the radiator hole in the core support in front need to be cut open more to except the 24" radiator. I believe the old 20" radiator mounted with the four bolts on the sides through the flange to the core support. This will change with the 24" radiator to the mounts you used in the video? Thanks Steve
Copper / brass radiators are actually better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is stronger and lighter, so they're able to have bigger tubes without getting too heavy. So it's kind of a toss-up. As you probably gathered from this video, we much prefer the stock-style copper / brass, due largely to the correct appearance. You should be able to mount a 24" with no problem, using the proper lower and upper cradle mounts.
My 67 mustang came with a stock 16 inch radiator. No shroud. No AC. 289 motor. I want to upgrade to a 20 inch radiator. And add a shroud. Will this be sufficient for keeping a 289 2 barrel cool?
The Cougar never came with anything smaller than the 20" radiator, and we always recommend upgrading to the 24" unless you are trying to keep it original. How well a 20" would do would depend on a lot of factors, like how hot it gets where you are located, did you (or do you want to) add AC, overbore the motor, put larger than stock tires on it, etc. The 24" radiator with the larger shroud and the 7-blade big block fan were designed to keep a 4-V 428 Cobra Jet cool, so cooling a semi stock 2-V 289 is child's play. If you go with the 20" it might work for you, but you will have to be mindful of any additions or modifications you make.
@West Coast Classic Cougar no modifications. I'm to old for that kind of stuff. Just a go to a couole of shows a year car. That's it. Otherwise, I will set in storage. I'm in Ohio. So weather isn't to bad. It don't over heat now. But it's the original 60 year old brass radiator. I'd rather upgrade now, and know I won't have issues later.
@@hughphillips67Mustang For your case, just upgrading to the 20" radiator with a new shroud may suffice, but we have yet to have someone go to the 24" and regret it. That being said, if you do the 20", the radiator mounts are the same, so all you need is the 20" radiator, new rubber Insulators for the mounts and the new shroud. If you go to the 24" you need the upper & lower radiator mounts w/ Insulators for the 68 - 70, the new 24" radiator, the new shroud, the new fan and a new fan clutch. It would also probably be a good idea to get new upper, lower radiator hoses and a few other related items. Regardless upgrading to the 20" will be simpler and less expensive. The links to the parts for the 24" upgrade are in the description of this video. Here are the parts for the 20" upgrade: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/340.html We also have a new 3 core Aluminum version of the 20" radiator (beware of the some of the other aluminum radiators as they are known to leak after a short time): secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/radiator-max-core-aluminum-20-inch-289-302-351-no-ac-3-core-repro-1967-1968-1969-mercury-cougar-ford-mustang.html
What radiator do you recommend for a 390 in a 69 ?? Mine is running hot so I need to do something to improve the efficiency. I already bought the clutch and proper fan from you.
WAS THERE ANY FABRICATION OR CUT OUTS TO MOUNT THE RADIATOR OR DO YOU JUST MOUNT IT WITH THE UPPER RADIATOR MOUNT ALONE … I didn’t see you booting the side of the radiator down
Unfortunately the 66 Stang is different than any of the 67+ Cougar/Mustangs, so we are not familiar with the specifics of that year. We would recommend you ask on one of the Classic Mustang user forums.
Well that's part of what we recommend - to upgrade to a clutch fan like the two versions we carry, both will work. They use less HP to run. Any stock steel fan without a clutch is going to be about the same in terms of cooling efficiency, but use more HP since it spins all the time.
That's for the automatic transmission fluid, assuming you're referring to the two steel lines at the bottom. Not sure when exactly that practice started.
I have a 1968 mustang with a 302 engine. I’m looking to convert the brake from a 4 lug drum to 5 lug disc. Can you recommend what I will need? I have seen other videos were the spindle will fit I I go with a 1967 brake conversion kit. Is the true?
If you have 4 lug wheels, your Mustang likely started out with a 6 cylinder engine. We don't know enough about the 6 cylinder Mustang suspensions, but I would guess that they are 9 inch drums? 6 cylinders may have different steering components too. We would not be sure how much is involved to do a safe disc update from a 4 lug suspension. Google V8 Mustang suspension conversion from 6 cylinder. Thanks for viewing.
All spindles on 68 are the same as a the 67 V8 disc spindle. If you have 4 lug then it wad originally a I6 car. You can add a 68 Disc setup or 67 KH disc setup without changing spindles.
Yes, all you need is the fan and clutch shown in the video. Before you buy the fan check out Item #: 53234 on our site and read the reviews. This will instantly drop the temp on a Cleveland by a surprising amount.
It would be a long list because of different applications. All the little icon pictures that come up throughout the video can be clicked to go directly to the relevant item(s) when viewing on a desktop computer. However this feature is going away soon, so future videos will have the part numbers included on screen. Everything in the video can be found here - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/cooling.html
There is a lot of mixed info about if you should or should not paint an automotive radiator, and honestly, we don't know enough to say definitively if you should or not. There are specific aerosol paints that are made for this purpose, so it may simply come down to using the right paint. If you are going to try to paint your radiator, there are multiple videos on RUclips walking you through how other people have done it. This video shows a custom radiator shop painting their radiators: ruclips.net/video/P73ycsv-xUU/видео.html
I got a 65 mustang 289, I put a ecp radiator in it but the 17 " fan hit the was to big it didn't clear the bottom port, will a smaller fan be ok like 15 " or 16 " the car has no Ac .??
West Coast Classic Cougar yes standard spacer , it's ecp 2 core with 1 inch ports . It hits the passenger side bottom main port( both ports are on passenger side) just barely hits it but it does. Dude I cut my stock 17 to 15 inches and it works for now , I'm just gonna order a 16" flexalite. Can't say much about the radiator I haven't sat in traffic yet but I got high hopes. Thanks for getting back
I have a 64 Comet with a 289 no A/C. I too put in a ECP 2 row ( 1" tubes) just today. I also upgraded to a 17" NPD 5 blade fan, the one with 2 blades not quite evenly spaced. Anyway no clearance issue at all. I took it for a test drive today and it was cooler. I am experimenting. I used Super lube, like water wetter, without coolant. They claim its better. So far it seems to be. I can always add coolant if it doesn't hold up. My issue now is putting on a shroud. The 3" ABS has zero clearance and needs cutting. The " stock" type from NPD etc is just to thin looking. Seems pointless. Our cars came with that 4 blade one early on in the video which I think was 15". Smooth Sailin'.
Don, I have a a 69 Cougar Coupe that came with a 351W. That was replaced with a 1968 390GT. Question is I am to purchase everything 390 based vs 351 based, right ?
Not sure what your application is, but all our fuel lines are listed here: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/fuellines.html We're actually working on a fuel system rehab video, look for that soon!
No specific recommendations other than checking your local craigslist for engines, parts cars/trucks, etc. We probably have some rebuildable "core" engines here but shipping would be cost prohibitive. You could also look into crate engines if you want something brand new, but then it wouldn't be "period correct" anymore. Depending on your definition of "blown" maybe your dad's engine can be rebuilt.
West Coast Classic Cougar thanks for the reply. from what I understand it was too much money to rebuild the engine. I should have been more specific and asked about good venders for crate engines. Either way he ended up getting an engine from Jasper. thanks again .
We have a handful of parts that cross with the 65 Stang, but since those do not really cross with the Cougars we do not know a lot about them. That would probably be a great question to ask at: www.vintage-mustang.com/
Since they never came on these cars from the factory, you'd have to use a generic aftermarket one or rig something up yourself. We've seen things like a plastic oil bottle hidden down low with the overflow hose running into it. Otherwise, the factory setup was just to run the hose beside the radiator and let the overflow drip onto the ground. 60's tech... Your local auto parts store probably has something that will work.
West Coast Classic Cougar Ya I would like to buy one because mine currently is missing a cap and has a hole in it. Also I live in cali and don't want my Antifreeze all over the ground in summer.
Some folks will use a black one quart oil container. Just drill a hole the size of your overflow hose in the cap and nestle it down low resting on the valance on the passenger side.
Hay Don. ..That’s Funny Cause My Name Is Don As Well.. Humph, Small Would..Tiny..Any Hoot . If Need Help Or Have Any Questions. I’m A pretty Smart Ford Guy.. So If You’re Going With A Fan Upgrade,, THINK ELECTRIK . Cools Better & It Frees Up A Noticeable Amount Of parasitic Horse Power.. WAIT WAIT . WTF . Oh Never Mind I’m Rite Again.. you can call Me Don.. really it’s my name .. Allways here to help.. ps yet another funny looking mustang wit goofy cat emblems .. Funny dat..
Rick A from Sac... Just wanna say great how to video don.... I purchased the radiator fan upgrade, & had it installed by gearhead garage in Sacramento..... had cooling issues from day 1 in 2017 of getting my rebuilt 67 Cougar 289 up & running... But those days are over, & a big thanks to wwcc & ma new mechanic Jason... owner of gearhead. All that's left to say is : It feels damn gud that I can drive on the freeway without having to continuously worry & stare at the temperature gage while driving... 😁😁👌🏾👍🏾
All you guys that like to keep these cars stock and or original are going to have a cow when they see mine. Everything Has to be blacked out And everything’s gonna be electric the only thing that pulleys should be driving on an engine is an alternator, crank and cam that’s it. In a touchscreen nav
Hi Don, I have a 1968 XR7 with the 390 GT that came with AC from the factory. I was going to buy your 4 core radiator as an upgrade for my resto mod that I’m doing, but I saw on your website that you don’t recommend the 4 core radiator because it doesn’t fit up right sometimes. Do you mean that it won’t fit my big block right or it’s just not good for upgrading a small block? Thank you Eric
The fatter radiator causes the shroud not to fit correctly and crowds the fan. This is true on small or big block, plus it looks unsightly. Not a fan... (Pun Intended)
Haha thank you for your honesty. That’s why I’ve been looking to you first for all of my parts. So then would you recommend that I buy a repro 3 core from you or would it be better to try and find somewhere that will recore my stock radiator? I have heard that that can be prohibitively expensive, but I have not actually gotten any estimates yet.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Bigger In Texas [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QxTkZTLWdo4/mqdefault.jpg)
if you own a classic cougar and you need parts or help, Don is the man.
It's so satisfying to still see mechanical fans being used in these applications. I love the old-school look as well as the slight "fan roar".
InstaBlaster
Hi Don, I'm not a mechanic by any means and by that I mean I had to buy basic hand tools from Harbor Freight just to think about doing this up grade. With that said and with your Kit it was a surprisingly easy up grade, everything came apart and back together just as you had described in the video. While i was in there I upgraded the Water Pump Thermostat Temp. Sending Unit and Radiator Hoses....No muss no fuss just trimmed the lower hose a little. Thanks for everything and I'll be ordering more parts soon.
Hi Don. Great little video. One l small thing you did not cover was to use silicone grease while installing hoses or in fact any rubber parts on to metal. Makes things way easier when later repairs have to be done. Just a thin smear is all that is needed,but the difference is huge. Installation is easier too. Glad you posted something new. Cheers.
Im starting a project of restoring a 1970 Eliminator that my dad bought new. I will be calling and ordering a lot! Great videos! I really appreciate seeing you level of knowledge and can see when I call Ill be ordering the right parts to take this car from a garage queen to a reliable driver in no time!
Love family cars I am the third generation to own my 67 cougar or should I say grandpa's 67 my son is already asking me when do I get a chance to own the car I told him most likely after I am dead
Wish I had watched this before ordering the aluminum radiator haha. I am building a 70 Torino and it is so hard to figure out which parts carry over from mustangs or cougars. Your seatbelt video was a life saver. Huge thanks for the quality videos!
Thank you for this video, I followed your directions and everything installed perfectly! would've never figured out those lower mounts--
Great video Don...I am going to upgrade my 69 Mustang 351 W...new engine bigger cam (2200 rpm convertor) Sanden AC... she overheats in slower traffic, so this video comes in handy. I will be ordering this upgrade from you guys. Thanks again
Right on, glad it helped!
I'm on your website now...will call you tomorrow (I'm East Coast..what's a good time)
We're open Mon-Fri from 8am-5pm (Pacific time, so 11am-8pm your time)
Just bought a 68 Cougar with aluminum radiator that's too small. I may try all this next spring. Thanks so much.
Just an FYI: most of the aluminum radiators out there are junk, we have only been able to find one line we would be willing to put into our cars: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/radiator-max-core-aluminum-20-289/302/351-68-69-w/o-ac-3-core-repro-1967-1967-mercury-cougar-/-1967-1969-ford-mustang.html.
With that said, with the upgrades we suggest in this video, unless you are drag racing the car or something you should not need an aluminum radiator.
I’ve been restoring a 70 eliminator my dad bought new. It’s a CA car, when he put the coolant reservoir in he put it in the wheel well behind the right side headlights. Seems to have been a great place.
Appreciate the tips, but going a bit different direction with the aftermarket A/C & cooling upgrade. Like the new video intro!
Well organized video sir. Thank you!
Thanks ! I just realized I have none of the support brackets that are supposed to be on my 68' coupe Mustang. I did however 2 yrs ago put in a clutch fan setup and OMG ... overheating issue GONE ! ... i have a 5 blade staggered one from Ford (can't tell you what year) but it works like a charm !
Thank you for an excellent video. Its oddly hard to find part number lists and instructions when converting from a 289 to an FE radiator. 😎😎😎😎👍👍👍👍🔥🔥
Great video! Thank you!
Awesome video Don. Great info and you make it look real easy.
Just wondering if it would be easier to install the fan/clutch/unbolted shroud first, and THEN install the radiator?
That would probably work!
I noticed your fan was not free spinning upon start up. The fan appears to always be engaged (spinning). Is that normal?
This style of fan will never completely stop spinning when the engine is on. If you notice at 20:11, Don is able to spin the fan by hand when the engine is not running, but there is still friction that will cause the fans to spin at a slower speed when the fan clutch is not fully engaged.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar I figured as much after replacing mine. Thank you for validating
Have you ever used the Derale steel fans? I’m looking to going a severe duty clutch and Derale 20” fan on my 90 f250 with a 460BB looking for maximum air flow thanks for any advice
I am doing this mod on my '69 M code Mach 1. The holes in the radiator support do not line up as the 24" radiator is wider. How did you get around this? Fabricate mounts I guess?
I have to original 20" 2 row radiator in my 67 mustang. I put a clutch fan, and shroud on it. How far into the shroud should the fan blades be?
The consensus from ClassicCougarCommunity.com on fan/shroud/radiator spacing is that the fan should be somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 way into the shroud and the leading edge of the fan blades should be 1" give or take from the radiator.
Well I'll be ordering these parts, I've got a 70 XR7 Convertible with a 351 4v I'm purchasing from Canada and it isn't going to like sitting at stop lights for 2 or 3 minutes in 110 to 115 degree Las Vegas heat. I know that much already.
I have the same setup and shroud but I feel like the shroud isn’t deep enough, my clutch fan is Barely a quarter way in, a good 2/3 if not 3/4 is outside the fan. And the shroud also has gaps on the top and bottom of the raditator
I need to move my radiator up a half inch.. trying to see if this is even possible. Either my motor mounts are too high, or my radiator mounts are too low. My fan is hitting the top of the fan shroud and just keeps causing all sorts of problems.
Are you using an original fan? We have heard of this with some aftermarket fans. We have OEM replacement motor mounts and radiator mounts, but that will only help if the issue is not an aftermarket fan. The wrong spacer could also possibly cause that.
Not sure what year you have, selecting the year and updating the search will pare down the results:
Motor Mounts: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=motor%20mount&Type=AND
Radiator Mounts: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=radiator%20mounts&CatID=0
Fan Spacers: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=fan%20spacer&Type=AND
Big-Block Fans (as suggested):
68-69 version - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c89fan.html
69-70 version - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c909fan.html
Fan Clutches: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=0&SearchTerms=Clutch%20Radiator%20Fan&Type=EXACT
Do you know how wide the big block fan is with clutch? I put a thicker radiator in than factory and i wanted to make sure it wont be too close to the radiator.
Approximately 4" depending on which fan and clutch are used.
Mate you spent how much on all that gear? I spent $69 on a electric fan kept original radiator and my Windsor runs better and cooler than before it doesn't matter to me what's under the bonnet wrg to originality.
Best cooling problem I find is pulleys from wherever. No consideration of pulley ratio. That won't cause a problem. Other great one is a stuck valve in the radiator cap. As soon as you rev the engine, the upper hose collapses.
Good tip, please lets hear from others as there are many scenarios we can cover here in the comments. Don - WCCC
One other thought, a clean (and painted) fanblade moves more air. Just like a boxfan in your house, it puts out more air if it's clean.
Did you say it's a 20 inch radiator now? I trying to cool my 66 mustang 347 w a/c i have 4 core 5 blade and runs 205 in az. Before ac install was never above 190
This car came factory with a 20" radiator, and we upgraded it to the 24" that AC / enhanced cooling equipped cars would have had from the factory on 67 and newer, as well as adding the shroud and 7 blade fan that came factory on the 68-70 390 / 427 / 428 cars (links to the needed parts are in the video description). Here is an article about installing the 68 24" radiator in a 66 Stang: www.motortrend.com/how-to/1801-upgrade-your-mustangs-cooling-by-fitting-a-24-inch-radiator/. Hope that helps.
on my 70 mustang coupe with a 398 stroker, I have a 24 inch wide 4 row radiator and aluminum heads and a high volume water pump and it still over heats. But, it is bored .060 over. it was a 351 when I started. I have installed a dual electric fan [same width] from a mercury mistake[mystique] to no avail. any suggestions? now I'll watch the video. thanks . My idles a little differently than yours. lol great video. I forward to my bro. he has 2 cougars.
So that's a Cleveland block correct? You probably need the restrictor plate. Clevelands originally came with a special thermostat. Over the years, they usually get replaced with a standard thermostat, and overheating problems occur. Just throw this restrictor in and it should help: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/waterrestrictplate.html
Of course being bored .060 over is going to contribute to the issue, but it sounds like you're doing everything else right. Also not sure if you can use a shroud with the electric fans but that could help too.
I assume now that the 24" radiator only uses the lower and upper brackets for mounting and does not directly bolt to the radiator support like the 20".
that is correct. call us and we can get you the correct parts needed to isolate the rad. 53-03-463-1130
I had a ‘67 XR7 with a 289 that I could never get anyone to solve my cooling problem. I suspect it must have had the tiny radiator. What a shame… after getting stranded three times on road trips, I gave up and traded it. 😩
Just received 73 351C radiator today. Before I remove old one, do I reuse the transmission connection from the old unit?
We do offer new trans lines, but as long as the lines you have are in good shape you should be able to still use those. On most of those the connectors are not removable from the trans lines. If you are talking about the adapter that goes between the radiator and the trans lines, we do not have new ones of those, we only have good used ones.
Here are the listings for the new lines/adapters: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?CatID=15890&SearchTerms=transmission%20cooling%20line&Type=AND
Hi Don, Great video. I have a 69 Mustang that needs a radiator and Fan etc. Motor is a 351 crate motor 450 HP. The company I got this motor from said I need to run a 4 core Alum. radiator. But I like the stock look better. The Mustang had a 20" radiator. Does the radiator hole in the core support in front need to be cut open more to except the 24" radiator. I believe the old 20" radiator mounted with the four bolts on the sides through the flange to the core support. This will change with the 24" radiator to the mounts you used in the video? Thanks Steve
Copper / brass radiators are actually better at conducting heat than aluminum, but aluminum is stronger and lighter, so they're able to have bigger tubes without getting too heavy. So it's kind of a toss-up. As you probably gathered from this video, we much prefer the stock-style copper / brass, due largely to the correct appearance.
You should be able to mount a 24" with no problem, using the proper lower and upper cradle mounts.
How far in should the fan be in the shroud? Thanks Ron
About halfway, as a general rule of thumb. It shouldn't be all the way in.
Putting studs in the water pump and using nuts on the fan clutch side would make it a lot easier to put on
My 67 mustang came with a stock 16 inch radiator. No shroud. No AC. 289 motor. I want to upgrade to a 20 inch radiator. And add a shroud. Will this be sufficient for keeping a 289 2 barrel cool?
The Cougar never came with anything smaller than the 20" radiator, and we always recommend upgrading to the 24" unless you are trying to keep it original. How well a 20" would do would depend on a lot of factors, like how hot it gets where you are located, did you (or do you want to) add AC, overbore the motor, put larger than stock tires on it, etc. The 24" radiator with the larger shroud and the 7-blade big block fan were designed to keep a 4-V 428 Cobra Jet cool, so cooling a semi stock 2-V 289 is child's play. If you go with the 20" it might work for you, but you will have to be mindful of any additions or modifications you make.
@West Coast Classic Cougar no modifications. I'm to old for that kind of stuff. Just a go to a couole of shows a year car. That's it. Otherwise, I will set in storage. I'm in Ohio. So weather isn't to bad. It don't over heat now. But it's the original 60 year old brass radiator. I'd rather upgrade now, and know I won't have issues later.
@@hughphillips67Mustang For your case, just upgrading to the 20" radiator with a new shroud may suffice, but we have yet to have someone go to the 24" and regret it.
That being said, if you do the 20", the radiator mounts are the same, so all you need is the 20" radiator, new rubber Insulators for the mounts and the new shroud. If you go to the 24" you need the upper & lower radiator mounts w/ Insulators for the 68 - 70, the new 24" radiator, the new shroud, the new fan and a new fan clutch. It would also probably be a good idea to get new upper, lower radiator hoses and a few other related items. Regardless upgrading to the 20" will be simpler and less expensive.
The links to the parts for the 24" upgrade are in the description of this video.
Here are the parts for the 20" upgrade: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/340.html
We also have a new 3 core Aluminum version of the 20" radiator (beware of the some of the other aluminum radiators as they are known to leak after a short time):
secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/radiator-max-core-aluminum-20-inch-289-302-351-no-ac-3-core-repro-1967-1968-1969-mercury-cougar-ford-mustang.html
Great info
I'm wondering if the clutch fan would be overkill for a 302 with AC. I guess it can't hurt.
Definitely can't hurt! In fact, using a clutch fan will free up a few HP, since it freewheels when it's not needed.
What radiator do you recommend for a 390 in a 69 ?? Mine is running hot so I need to do something to improve the efficiency. I already bought the clutch and proper fan from you.
Here is the radiator we recommend for your application: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/379.html
Nice
WAS THERE ANY FABRICATION OR CUT OUTS TO MOUNT THE RADIATOR OR DO YOU JUST MOUNT IT WITH THE UPPER RADIATOR MOUNT ALONE … I didn’t see you booting the side of the radiator down
These radiators do not bolt directly to the car. They sit in the lower mounts like a cradle and are sandwiched between the upper and lower mounts.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar you are correct sir thank you so much for the reply I just installed mine
I have 66 Mustang 289 without ac I want to atgrade to a new cooling sistem what did you recommend me?
Unfortunately the 66 Stang is different than any of the 67+ Cougar/Mustangs, so we are not familiar with the specifics of that year. We would recommend you ask on one of the Classic Mustang user forums.
I have a 1969 Mustang 351w without clutch fan. Which fan do you recommend to this upgrade without fan clutch?
Well that's part of what we recommend - to upgrade to a clutch fan like the two versions we carry, both will work. They use less HP to run. Any stock steel fan without a clutch is going to be about the same in terms of cooling efficiency, but use more HP since it spins all the time.
I'm going to ask a dumb question. When roughly did ''they'' start using the radiator to cool the engine oil?
That's for the automatic transmission fluid, assuming you're referring to the two steel lines at the bottom. Not sure when exactly that practice started.
I have a 1968 mustang with a 302 engine. I’m looking to convert the brake from a 4 lug drum to 5 lug disc. Can you recommend what I will need? I have seen other videos were the spindle will fit I I go with a 1967 brake conversion kit. Is the true?
Thanks for asking! Just watch our video where we convert a drum brake car to disc. ruclips.net/video/H6959c6ayKI/видео.html
If you have 4 lug wheels, your Mustang likely started out with a 6 cylinder engine. We don't know enough about the 6 cylinder Mustang suspensions, but I would guess that they are 9 inch drums? 6 cylinders may have different steering components too. We would not be sure how much is involved to do a safe disc update from a 4 lug suspension. Google V8 Mustang suspension conversion from 6 cylinder. Thanks for viewing.
All spindles on 68 are the same as a the 67 V8 disc spindle. If you have 4 lug then it wad originally a I6 car. You can add a 68 Disc setup or 67 KH disc setup without changing spindles.
Can this upgrade be done to a 1972 mustang with a 351c, and if so part numbers please. Thank you
Yes, all you need is the fan and clutch shown in the video. Before you buy the fan check out Item #: 53234 on our site and read the reviews. This will instantly drop the temp on a Cleveland by a surprising amount.
Can you add a list of the part numbers used to do this project?
It would be a long list because of different applications. All the little icon pictures that come up throughout the video can be clicked to go directly to the relevant item(s) when viewing on a desktop computer. However this feature is going away soon, so future videos will have the part numbers included on screen.
Everything in the video can be found here - secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/cooling.html
I thought you should never paint a radiator. The factory paints them. Can I paint mine to look good?
There is a lot of mixed info about if you should or should not paint an automotive radiator, and honestly, we don't know enough to say definitively if you should or not. There are specific aerosol paints that are made for this purpose, so it may simply come down to using the right paint. If you are going to try to paint your radiator, there are multiple videos on RUclips walking you through how other people have done it. This video shows a custom radiator shop painting their radiators: ruclips.net/video/P73ycsv-xUU/видео.html
I got a 65 mustang 289, I put a ecp radiator in it but the 17 " fan hit the was to big it didn't clear the bottom port, will a smaller fan be ok like 15 " or 16 " the car has no Ac .??
Where is it hitting? Is there a spacer on the fan? Which radiator did you get / how many cores?
West Coast Classic Cougar yes standard spacer , it's ecp 2 core with 1 inch ports . It hits the passenger side bottom main port( both ports are on passenger side) just barely hits it but it does. Dude I cut my stock 17 to 15 inches and it works for now , I'm just gonna order a 16" flexalite. Can't say much about the radiator I haven't sat in traffic yet but I got high hopes. Thanks for getting back
I have a 64 Comet with a 289 no A/C. I too put in a ECP 2 row ( 1" tubes) just today. I also upgraded to a 17" NPD 5 blade fan, the one with 2 blades not quite evenly spaced. Anyway no clearance issue at all. I took it for a test drive today and it was cooler. I am experimenting. I used Super lube, like water wetter, without coolant. They claim its better. So far it seems to be. I can always add coolant if it doesn't hold up. My issue now is putting on a shroud. The 3" ABS has zero clearance and needs cutting. The " stock" type from NPD etc is just to thin looking. Seems pointless. Our cars came with that 4 blade one early on in the video which I think was 15". Smooth Sailin'.
Don, I have a a 69 Cougar Coupe that came with a 351W. That was replaced with a 1968 390GT. Question is I am to purchase everything 390 based vs 351 based, right ?
Yes, buy based on the engine you have.
U still have it bro, I just got one yesterday!!!!
how much is it for all the fuel lines i bought the tank already and pump but want to replace all the rusty lines
Not sure what your application is, but all our fuel lines are listed here: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/fuellines.html
We're actually working on a fuel system rehab video, look for that soon!
Do you have a recommendation as to where to get a replacement 351w? My dad blew his engine on his xr7 convertible.
No specific recommendations other than checking your local craigslist for engines, parts cars/trucks, etc. We probably have some rebuildable "core" engines here but shipping would be cost prohibitive. You could also look into crate engines if you want something brand new, but then it wouldn't be "period correct" anymore.
Depending on your definition of "blown" maybe your dad's engine can be rebuilt.
West Coast Classic Cougar thanks for the reply. from what I understand it was too much money to rebuild the engine. I should have been more specific and asked about good venders for crate engines. Either way he ended up getting an engine from Jasper. thanks again .
Can i do the 24" upgrade to my '65 mustang coupe?
We have a handful of parts that cross with the 65 Stang, but since those do not really cross with the Cougars we do not know a lot about them. That would probably be a great question to ask at: www.vintage-mustang.com/
Someone can tell if a fan from Torino big block 1970/1972 can work for 1968 mercury cougar with 302 engine?
Yes, that should work fine!
Will this also fit my 1967 Fairlane 289???
no.
The fan and clutch only. The radiators are taller, so the rest won't work.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar Thanks for the info.
Do you know where I can get a replacement over flow res for a 69 351w?
Since they never came on these cars from the factory, you'd have to use a generic aftermarket one or rig something up yourself. We've seen things like a plastic oil bottle hidden down low with the overflow hose running into it. Otherwise, the factory setup was just to run the hose beside the radiator and let the overflow drip onto the ground. 60's tech... Your local auto parts store probably has something that will work.
West Coast Classic Cougar Ya I would like to buy one because mine currently is missing a cap and has a hole in it. Also I live in cali and don't want my Antifreeze all over the ground in summer.
Some folks will use a black one quart oil container. Just drill a hole the size of your overflow hose in the cap and nestle it down low resting on the valance on the passenger side.
Wish I would of found this before I got a aluminum rad.
Hay Don. ..That’s Funny Cause My Name Is Don As Well.. Humph, Small Would..Tiny..Any Hoot . If Need Help Or Have Any Questions. I’m A pretty Smart Ford Guy.. So If You’re Going With A Fan Upgrade,, THINK ELECTRIK . Cools Better & It Frees Up A Noticeable Amount Of parasitic Horse Power.. WAIT WAIT . WTF . Oh Never Mind I’m Rite Again.. you can call Me Don.. really it’s my name .. Allways here to help.. ps yet another funny looking mustang wit goofy cat emblems .. Funny dat..
Rick A from Sac... Just wanna say great how to video don.... I purchased the radiator fan upgrade, & had it installed by gearhead garage in Sacramento..... had cooling issues from day 1 in 2017 of getting my rebuilt 67 Cougar 289 up & running... But those days are over, & a big thanks to wwcc & ma new mechanic
Jason... owner of gearhead.
All that's left to say is : It feels damn gud that I can drive on the freeway without having to continuously worry & stare at the temperature gage while driving... 😁😁👌🏾👍🏾
Where are you located at
We are located just north of Salem Oregon: g.page/WestCoastClassicCougar
All you guys that like to keep these cars stock and or original are going to have a cow when they see mine. Everything Has to be blacked out And everything’s gonna be electric the only thing that pulleys should be driving on an engine is an alternator, crank and cam that’s it. In a touchscreen nav
You have a pulley driven crank and cam?! Youve got yourself a keeper there bud! Where did you find a steam engine to fit under the hood of that gem?
I'm in central Tx I have a custom motorcycle/vehicle fabrication shop if you need any upgrades or aftermarket work done get ahold of me.
Hi Don,
I have a 1968 XR7 with the 390 GT that came with AC from the factory.
I was going to buy your 4 core radiator as an upgrade for my resto mod that I’m doing, but I saw on your website that you don’t recommend the 4 core radiator because it doesn’t fit up right sometimes.
Do you mean that it won’t fit my big block right or it’s just not good for upgrading a small block?
Thank you
Eric
The fatter radiator causes the shroud not to fit correctly and crowds the fan. This is true on small or big block, plus it looks unsightly. Not a fan... (Pun Intended)
Haha thank you for your honesty. That’s why I’ve been looking to you first for all of my parts.
So then would you recommend that I buy a repro 3 core from you or would it be better to try and find somewhere that will recore my stock radiator? I have heard that that can be prohibitively expensive, but I have not actually gotten any estimates yet.
Will this work with a 1969 mustang 351w?
Yes!