Your presentation was absolutely awesome and is what must be done for a vehicle that has not been ran for a few years. As if this isn’t done you are for 100 % sure are going to have problems.
I use locking caps not to keep my gas from being stolen but to keep a-holes from putting contaminates ( or loose spark plugs and hardware) in my tank. I would also advise disconnecting your battery ( maybe even remove it to another area) when removing your gasoline. Clear hose is better to siphon with as you can see it coming before you swallow any plus it doesn't hurt to filter it into gas cans as opposed to buckets.
I don´t own a Cougar, and probably never will, but I still enjoy watching your videos because of the attention to detail and the fact that you don´t try to sell stuff people don´t need.
Thanks for the insights, always appreciate the attention to detail. I've been involved in more than one garage queen/yard ornament, and there are likely thousands who will find this video very useful. However, for checking a variable resistance component, I prefer an analog meter, as this gives a good visual of the smoothness of operation.
The original finish of the filler necks was a lead plating. This reduced the damage if bumped up against things like luggage and reduced the chance of a spark being created in the perfect situation also. You can get them recoated by companies but I've recoated them at home - just because I like the challenge and the DYI stuff before companies started doing them There are articles on some sites as well as threads as to how to do this at home but often the shops that do it only charge $15-20 to replate plus shipping I believe. Thanks for another great how to do it video clip.
Don and Andrew - another outstanding video. You guys put out some of the best classic car repair videos on the 'net. Makes me want to buy a Cougar (and I'm a mopar guy)!
Going to replace fuel tank on Sunday Nov 18 /22 and this is perfect. I now have subscribed and have your site for other 68 Cougar parts. So informative. thank you so much.🤩
Neat show, just found you guys. Remember a green cougar about 1980 here in N. MI. guy would drive along next to you at about 25 MPH, tromp on the gas and chirp the tires, always liked these, enjoyed your presentation. Thanks.
i too live in Canada, the 1970's! i remember having to change a clutch on my 68 volvo 142 in the front driveway in late november, manhandling a cold and heavy cast iron tranny back into place, cold fingers, cold ass, and the required mice crawling over my legs. great fun (not) great memories though, having friends and their cars in my driveway, a few beers and a lot of the usual BS to go with it. a friend of mine used to call it the DP (my initials) yard party.
Great episode. I would have used SilGlyde silicon grease wherever rubber met metal,especially the grommet at the torque box. Fuel line too. No such thing as a good cheap line wrench,your Snap on is probably the best of the bunch. Brings back memories of just how often older Fords draw blood. Sure nice cars though.
A little run down on the Cougar before the overhaul would be interesting such as options, specs, etc, etc but an enjoyable vid. I now have an urge to go looking for a cougar.
Well, if the Democrat's pass the Green New Deal, you better find an Electric motor that will fit! UN IPCC wants gasoline tax to be $20+ per gallon by 2030!.
That turned into a whole thing. As you've seen in the other videos, the shell got painted, new vinyl top and headliner put on, engine rebuilt, new front suspension and disc brakes, etc. Then a couple years after the shell was painted, finally the fenders and hood and trunk lid got painted and... they looked like crap and didn't really match the rest of the car. So Andrew decided to start over with another painter. It since got stripped back to bare metal to have all the issues fixed and get redone right. Pretty painful but it will get done (probably this year). He's been documenting the whole project here: classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096
@@WestCoastClassicCougar it appears it is finished =))) That was an awesome thread classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096&start=330
A safer way to syphon gas from a tank is to wrap a rag around the opening where you have the hose to the tank and make a half decent air tight seal and blow into the hose, the pressure accumulated in the tank will force the fuel back through the hose
Thanks for the video! I am getting ready to do the same to my '68 Mustang, which oddly enough, was originally an X code car (now has a 428 in it) and also has the convenience control panel. So, the information on the three prong sending unit was very useful to me. I will probably try to rebuild the original sender due to the cost of the new one. I am thinking that the repro thermistor is to repair a three prong sender as opposed to converting a replacement one prong sender to use the low fuel warning light since I cannot figure how one would send the wire from the thermister through the flange of the sender to connect to the car, your thoughts? Also, that Cougar is missing the bracket and isolator for the power steering hoses, or were those removed to get better access around the fuel pump? Cheers.
You're correct that the thermistor would only serve a purpose on a 3-prong sending unit, for cars with a low fuel warning light. And good catch on the missing isolator bracket for the power steering hoses! We have those. Even guys with small blocks like to use the big block hose routing because it's less intrusive than the factory setup. secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14155-Power-Steering-Hose-Bracket-and-Retainer-Big-Block-Routed-Repro-1967-1970-Mercury-Cougar-/-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=76
I know they say no replacement for displacement, but I looked at a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 with a 428 back in the mid 1970's, it looked like you would have to jack the engine up to get to the spark plugs! I have a 351W in my 1967 Mustang, it fills the engine compartment up pretty good, running Shelby Tri-Y headers.... Main lesson I learned, WRAP the P/S hoses if you have P/S, the radiant heat from the headers cooks the hoses if you run them through factory brackets ...
Kinda brave getting the fuel line off the sending unit while using those metal oxide based pliers . The chrome tools would reduce the risks of a friction spark from all that rust . The tank neck and gas filler nozzles are oxide free to avoid contact sparks at the gas stations. FORD used a basic clamp to hold on a fuel filter and when the scew was rusted in place....I had to use a wire cutter to slowly cut the clamp off. Sparks near gasoline can put a real crimp in your day . As for getting the fuel out , a longer hose can be pushed in until you have about 8" sticking out , then just bend the hose to crimp it and hold tight at the bend. Lower that portion down to the bucket and pull out a bit extra hose . As long as you have the suction keeping gas in the hose you only need to let gravity take over where the weight of the fuel below the height of the tank can draw up gas from tank to fill the buckets . Folding the hose to crimp again it will stop the fuel and go to the next bucket. Lifting the end above the tank height will stop the gas flow , in your case you just hold it up and feed the hose back in and release the crimp for air to get in where you just slowly pull the hose out as it drains he remnants. I never liked the taste of gas .
Hey don awesome tutorial! You should try and do one video a month. I have a 1970 xr7 competition yellow, black vinyl top, brown leather interior with an fmx. I don't have original engine which was a 351 Cleveland 4v. It's in need of restoration. Again awesome video ! Keep up the good work!
There is absolutely nothing odd about trying to preserve everything that is original. That is a beautiful car as well. I don't know anyone would choose to restore it but that's me.
Do you have any suggestions for protecting the fuel tank from a rear end collision? I have heard that the fuel tank can be damaged in a rear end collision and send fuel into the passenger compartment.
Yes! Or at least we have something to prevent gas from entering the passenger compartment in the event of a hard rear end collision. We sell steel divider panels that go behind the back seat. Good for safety, structural rigidity, and sound deadening. Link: s.cougparts.com/14-0004
If you pay a shop to do all of what you see on our video, in addition to rebuilding the carb, expect to pay about $1000 if the shop rate is $80 per hour. Keep in mind shipping on long fuel lines and tanks can be expensive. If you do concours replating on a Holley carb and a correct Carter X fuel pump the price can more than double real quick. This is one of those job that is best to try to tackle yourself if possible, if just to save on labor costs.
We would have liked to, but unfortunately, this car was sold to a customer before we got the chance. We hope to pick up this theme again with another car, though, and show how to prime the oiling system and all that good stuff before firing it up for the first time.
Why didn't you pull the drain plug instead of siphoning through the neck? EDIT: Now I understand. The tank in my Cougar must have been replaced once before, because I thought they all had drain plugs straight out of the factory.
Perhaps the old gas can be revived and used in small engines such as snowblowers and lawn mowers especially old ones whose carburetors don't like ethanol-infused gas as is sold today.
@@scottymizzo415 We don't sell any complete Cougars very often, but we do have a place on our site where it shows Cougars that are for sale by customers, on eBay and one of the Classic Cougar forums: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/Classic-Cougars-For-Sale.html?sessionthemeid=26
@@WestCoastClassicCougar The 1970 is 20 gallon isn't it? Doesn't the 1970 also have the vapor recovery system as well? Or was that just the California cars? A friend of mine did a 1970 ragtop, but that was in 1994.....memory is a bit hazy....
@@shillgates6664 The California delivered cars had a 20 gallon tank and emissions, but that was only on California delivered cars. Those are not reproduced to our knowledge. The rest of the 70 Cougars/Mustangs had a 22 gallon tank with no emissions.
Your presentation was absolutely awesome and is what must be done for a vehicle that has not been ran for a few years.
As if this isn’t done you are for 100 % sure are going to have problems.
I use locking caps not to keep my gas from being stolen but to keep a-holes from putting contaminates ( or loose spark plugs and hardware) in my tank. I would also advise disconnecting your battery ( maybe even remove it to another area) when removing your gasoline. Clear hose is better to siphon with as you can see it coming before you swallow any plus it doesn't hurt to filter it into gas cans as opposed to buckets.
Agreed
I don´t own a Cougar, and probably never will, but I still enjoy watching your videos because of the attention to detail and the fact that you don´t try to sell stuff people don´t need.
Thanks for saying so! That means a lot when we can win over the non-Cougar people too.
Don, you have a real knack for finding these hidden jewels!
Thanks for the insights, always appreciate the attention to detail. I've been involved in more than one garage queen/yard ornament, and there are likely thousands who will find this video very useful. However, for checking a variable resistance component, I prefer an analog meter, as this gives a good visual of the smoothness of operation.
The original finish of the filler necks was a lead plating. This reduced the damage if bumped up against things like luggage and reduced the chance of a spark being created in the perfect situation also. You can get them recoated by companies but I've recoated them at home - just because I like the challenge and the DYI stuff before companies started doing them
There are articles on some sites as well as threads as to how to do this at home but often the shops that do it only charge $15-20 to replate plus shipping I believe.
Thanks for another great how to do it video clip.
Don and Andrew - another outstanding video. You guys put out some of the best classic car repair videos on the 'net. Makes me want to buy a Cougar (and I'm a mopar guy)!
Thank you! That's always nice to hear. Maybe we should make a video on "why you should buy a Cougar" to bring some of you guys over to our side :)
Going to replace fuel tank on Sunday Nov 18 /22 and this is perfect. I now have subscribed and have your site for other 68 Cougar parts. So informative. thank you so much.🤩
Neat show, just found you guys. Remember a green cougar about 1980 here in N. MI. guy would drive along next to you at about 25 MPH, tromp on the gas and chirp the tires, always liked these, enjoyed your presentation. Thanks.
Thank you so much Don. - These videos are so extremly helpful and helps how to do the restoration of these beautiful cars. - Perfect : )
Thanks for showing me exactly how much work I'm in for, even though I've got a 289 base model.
glad to see a mechanic who's not afraid to get his hands dirty.
i too live in Canada, the 1970's! i remember having to change a clutch on my 68 volvo 142 in the front driveway in late november, manhandling a cold and heavy cast iron tranny back into place, cold fingers, cold ass, and the required mice crawling over my legs. great fun (not) great memories though, having friends and their cars in my driveway, a few beers and a lot of the usual BS to go with it. a friend of mine used to call it the DP (my initials) yard party.
Great episode. I would have used SilGlyde silicon grease wherever rubber met metal,especially the grommet at the torque box. Fuel line too. No such thing as a good cheap line wrench,your Snap on is probably the best of the bunch. Brings back memories of just how often older Fords draw blood. Sure nice cars though.
Great info and no BS! Thank you!. You make some great videos. Thank you for the videos.
A little run down on the Cougar before the overhaul would be interesting such as options, specs, etc, etc but an enjoyable vid. I now have an urge to go looking for a cougar.
Enjoyed the streamlined editing. Edited but didn't cut out the good stuff.
What fuel sending unit would you recommend for a 1968 cougar, non xr7, 2 barrel stock engine?
Always has been my dream car I'm a Chevy dude but I will own one of these one day. Thanks for the video
Well, if the Democrat's pass the Green New Deal, you better find an Electric motor that will fit!
UN IPCC wants gasoline tax to be $20+ per gallon by 2030!.
What happened to the 68 Cougar that had a new roof put on as well as the disc brake conversion? Would love to see the finished product.
That turned into a whole thing. As you've seen in the other videos, the shell got painted, new vinyl top and headliner put on, engine rebuilt, new front suspension and disc brakes, etc. Then a couple years after the shell was painted, finally the fenders and hood and trunk lid got painted and... they looked like crap and didn't really match the rest of the car. So Andrew decided to start over with another painter. It since got stripped back to bare metal to have all the issues fixed and get redone right. Pretty painful but it will get done (probably this year). He's been documenting the whole project here: classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096
@@WestCoastClassicCougar it appears it is finished =))) That was an awesome thread
classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1096&start=330
Best update yet, fellas. Great job.
the late 60's cougars are awesome cars had a 67 or 68 cougar hot wheel car when i was a kid.
A safer way to syphon gas from a tank is to wrap a rag around the opening where you have the hose to the tank and make a half decent air tight seal and blow into the hose, the pressure accumulated in the tank will force the fuel back through the hose
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video! I am getting ready to do the same to my '68 Mustang, which oddly enough, was originally an X code car (now has a 428 in it) and also has the convenience control panel. So, the information on the three prong sending unit was very useful to me. I will probably try to rebuild the original sender due to the cost of the new one. I am thinking that the repro thermistor is to repair a three prong sender as opposed to converting a replacement one prong sender to use the low fuel warning light since I cannot figure how one would send the wire from the thermister through the flange of the sender to connect to the car, your thoughts? Also, that Cougar is missing the bracket and isolator for the power steering hoses, or were those removed to get better access around the fuel pump? Cheers.
You're correct that the thermistor would only serve a purpose on a 3-prong sending unit, for cars with a low fuel warning light. And good catch on the missing isolator bracket for the power steering hoses! We have those. Even guys with small blocks like to use the big block hose routing because it's less intrusive than the factory setup. secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14155-Power-Steering-Hose-Bracket-and-Retainer-Big-Block-Routed-Repro-1967-1970-Mercury-Cougar-/-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=76
I know they say no replacement for displacement, but I looked at a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 with a 428 back in the mid 1970's, it looked like you would have to jack the engine up to get to the spark plugs!
I have a 351W in my 1967 Mustang, it fills the engine compartment up pretty good, running Shelby Tri-Y headers....
Main lesson I learned, WRAP the P/S hoses if you have P/S, the radiant heat from the headers cooks the hoses if you run them through factory brackets ...
Kinda brave getting the fuel line off the sending unit while using those metal oxide based pliers . The chrome tools would reduce the risks of a friction spark from all that rust .
The tank neck and gas filler nozzles are oxide free to avoid contact sparks at the gas stations.
FORD used a basic clamp to hold on a fuel filter and when the scew was rusted in place....I had to use a wire cutter to slowly cut the clamp off.
Sparks near gasoline can put a real crimp in your day .
As for getting the fuel out , a longer hose can be pushed in until you have about 8" sticking out , then just bend the hose to crimp it and hold tight at the bend.
Lower that portion down to the bucket and pull out a bit extra hose . As long as you have the suction keeping gas in the hose you only need to let gravity take over where the weight of the fuel below the height of the tank can draw up gas from tank to fill the buckets .
Folding the hose to crimp again it will stop the fuel and go to the next bucket. Lifting the end above the tank height will stop the gas flow , in your case you just hold it up and feed the hose back in and release the crimp for air to get in where you just slowly pull the hose out as it drains he remnants.
I never liked the taste of gas .
Hey don awesome tutorial! You should try and do one video a month. I have a 1970 xr7 competition yellow, black vinyl top, brown leather interior with an fmx. I don't have original engine which was a 351 Cleveland 4v. It's in need of restoration. Again awesome video ! Keep up the good work!
There is absolutely nothing odd about trying to preserve everything that is original. That is a beautiful car as well. I don't know anyone would choose to restore it but that's me.
learnt so much from this video, thanks for sharing.... subscribed.
You make some great videos. Thank you for the videos
Moral of the story... Hammer fixes everything!
Same valance G and std they just cut them out by hand and installed the chrome horseshoe bezels that we sell.
Love this version of Cougar
When are the low fuel sending units going to be available again??
locking gas caps were really popular during the 73 embargo
People were so desperate for gas they didn't think twice about siphoning gas from parked cars even if they were on private property.
I had the almost the same car, same year, same color with black vinyl top, but mine was a 302.
Do you have any suggestions for protecting the fuel tank from a rear end collision? I have heard that the fuel tank can be damaged in a rear end collision and send fuel into the passenger compartment.
Yes! Or at least we have something to prevent gas from entering the passenger compartment in the event of a hard rear end collision. We sell steel divider panels that go behind the back seat. Good for safety, structural rigidity, and sound deadening. Link: s.cougparts.com/14-0004
Do you add a lead additive to the new fuel, or just install hardened valve seats?
Hardened valve seats is the preferable way to go!
Beautiful car
Great info and no BS! Thank you!
Great video. How much would/should a mechanic charge to do this?
If you pay a shop to do all of what you see on our video, in addition to rebuilding the carb, expect to pay about $1000 if the shop rate is $80 per hour. Keep in mind shipping on long fuel lines and tanks can be expensive. If you do concours replating on a Holley carb and a correct Carter X fuel pump the price can more than double real quick. This is one of those job that is best to try to tackle yourself if possible, if just to save on labor costs.
Great, Thanks.
Good video!
enjoy your info but would like to see more or here more about the 1972xr7....
How are you Dan ?
plans for a first start video?
We would have liked to, but unfortunately, this car was sold to a customer before we got the chance. We hope to pick up this theme again with another car, though, and show how to prime the oiling system and all that good stuff before firing it up for the first time.
Why didn't you pull the drain plug instead of siphoning through the neck?
EDIT: Now I understand. The tank in my Cougar must have been replaced once before, because I thought they all had drain plugs straight out of the factory.
Yep, no drain plug on the original!
Perhaps the old gas can be revived and used in small engines such as snowblowers and lawn mowers especially old ones whose carburetors don't like ethanol-infused gas as is sold today.
Where are you located what city and state
We are located just north of Salem Oregon, about 45 minutes south of Portland; g.page/WestCoastClassicCougar?share
@@WestCoastClassicCougar thanks for the information , hey do you have many classic cougars for sale that come into your shop?
@@scottymizzo415 We don't sell any complete Cougars very often, but we do have a place on our site where it shows Cougars that are for sale by customers, on eBay and one of the Classic Cougar forums: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/Classic-Cougars-For-Sale.html?sessionthemeid=26
Just curious if the new owners got the car running and if they found anything wrong in the engine? Thanks.
Last we heard, they got it running and there was some sort of rattle. They haven't yet rebuilt it, but that may be the next step.
Thank you!
Really got those hands dirty
Not mentioned here but important, is remove all the paper tags from the lines before installation. They are terrible to remove after.
can you use that 70 tank on a 67 mustang?
Yes it should fit, but as stated you would have to do something custom for the filler neck, since the geometry will change.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar The 1970 is 20 gallon isn't it?
Doesn't the 1970 also have the vapor recovery system as well?
Or was that just the California cars?
A friend of mine did a 1970 ragtop, but that was in 1994.....memory is a bit hazy....
@@shillgates6664 The California delivered cars had a 20 gallon tank and emissions, but that was only on California delivered cars. Those are not reproduced to our knowledge. The rest of the 70 Cougars/Mustangs had a 22 gallon tank with no emissions.
El mejor carro
I'm surprised Don doesn't have a siphon pump.
Does anyone make a repro xr7-G rear valence?
Same valance G and std they just cut them out by hand and installed the chrome horseshoe bezels that we sell.
390 4V?
This one is a 2V car (X code)
Sweet
If only all of us had a lift......
I siphoned gas from a vehicle once. Once. Ugghhh, it was 20+ years ago and I can still imagine that horrible gas taste. :(
Well, if you put an orange slice in each cheek, and it has the added Ethanol, it should taste a little bit like a Screwdriver...
good job done thanks for the information ehhh
I've got a 1969 Mach 1 stored in 1983 with a full tank. Here's the sending unit... www.sija.org/robs/mach139.jpg
Ah, that'll clean right off. (But wow!!)
Fuel Filter
Really? no start? arggggggggg
This Ethanol crap in gas is gunking up motorcycle carbs in 2 weeks
Using an electric tool on gas related repairs is Very Dangerous Sir
1st
The Donald Trump edition .