Tubeless Dos And Don'ts | How To Set Up Tubeless Tyres
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Tubeless tyres are now a really viable option for all round road racing, especially if you like to head onto the gravel roads or trails. Simon runs you through the dos and don'ts of setting up tubeless tyres here.
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Road tubeless tires and wheels are becoming increasingly popular, but a number of people have had and continue to have problems with them. Coming up are our tubeless dos and don'ts.
Now firstly, let's have a little recap as to what it actually is. A tubeless system is one that, surprise, surprise, has no inner tube in it. So in order for it to work, the bed of the rim needs to be airtight, so often that can be as simple as putting special tape around to seal it.
Most, though, will have a requirement of some kind of liquid sealant that will then coat the inside of the tire, and fill all these tiny little holes, make it airtight. But then, as an added bonus, that sealant will also seal most punctures as you're riding along.
The most critical part of a road tubeless system is actually the interface between the bead of the tire and the wall of the rim. Both components need to be tubeless specific, in order to be safe. Which leads me neatly on to our first don't. Don't try to make a normal road tire tubeless. It is actually really dangerous, because a tubeless specific tire will have a much stiffer bead on it that won't stretch.
Do consider running a little bit less pressure in your tubeless tires anyway, in comparison to what you might run in your standard tubed tires.
I always run sealant inside my tubeless tires. That way, I get that puncture protection from sharp objects, as well as pinch flats. But, you have to remember, the sealant has a life-span. It will dry out inside the tire. So, from time to time, maybe every three or four months, you need to re-top up those sealant levels.
Don't spend hours and hours trying to pump a stubbornly deflated tubeless tire. With your sealant inside the tire, you want to roll it quite firmly along the ground or your work top. And what that'll do, is it'll coat the bead of the tire with a nice layer of sealant. And that should mean that it inflates much more easily.
If you run tubeless across a number of different bikes, then something like this to Topeak Booster could well be a worthwhile investment. So, it works like a normal track pump. But then it also has this air canister that you charge up to 160 PSI. And then, at the flick of a switch, it releases all that air, super high-volume, exactly like a compressor would work.
Do you have any top tips or hacks for running tubeless that you think we've missed? Let us know in the comments below 👇
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Leave us a comment below!
Do you use tubeless tyres on your road bike? Let us know in the comments below 👇
No
Global Cycling Network no
Not on my road bike, but my CX came with tubeless ready tires and rims, so I gave it a go.
I am thinking of going tubeless on my triathlon bike.
No, not yet. But I will buy a tubeless ready new wheelset next year because I need to save up for it first.
It helps to bead the tyre before adding sealant. If it holds air pretty well you're good, if it doesn't you don't have to deal with sealant going everywhere. Once beaded remove valve core, add sealant and pump er up.
Thank you for the tips Simon! The new bike came tubeless and I didn't have the full background of how to maintain and repair.
Other tip, hold tire at 45 degreeish angle so the sealant can work it’s way into the tire bead rim area. I found that to be a leak prone area. Additionally tires need like a day to set in. Not all tubeless tires are made equally well, sealant needs to fill in the voids throughout the tire tread.
I used a bar of soap, not wet, just plain, rubbed on to lube the bead of the tire. It's not messy and it worked great. Ivory soap... Track pump worked fine after that - before, I wasted a couple of CO2s.
I just turn on my compressor and use that to seat the tyre-2.5 inch MTB-then let the air out, add sealant through the valve and pump back up with my track pump. I haven’t gone tubeless on my road bike yet-8 thorns across both tyres in one ride convinced me to change on my MTB.
I go tire less
Lol i go invisible bike😎
Is it supposed to be funny?
Madlad
@@user-zn4yg2yg1r It is
@@modesto8598 it not lmao
whole season no puncture and always something to start conversation about tech stuff : ) schwalbe ironman tubeless tyre and Shimano WH-6800 Ultegra wheelset. so far so good
Dear GCN,While I been a road bike guy for many years, I'm pretty new to the whole gravel bike riding and tubeless tires as I'm sure many of your viewers are. While I certainly think that tubeless is the way to go for gravel riding, I'm always guessing as to what my pressure should be, and I usually make that guess based upon what I think the road surface (or lack there of) is going to be. The smoother the road the higher the pressure. The rougher the road the lower the pressure.It would be cool if GCN did a experiment about how low should you go. Sure lower pressure can be great, but obviously there's a trade off with increased rolling resistance. While there are a variety of factors that can effect what pressure you should be riding like rider weight, road/off-road surface, speed, desired comfort level for those who don't care about speed vs. less wear and tear for a longer race performance and more, here's what I'd like to see you do....Take a gravel bike with tubeless tires and a power meter, plot out a course that covers a variety of surfaces over a few short miles, then go ride it at as near of a constant speed that you can, recording the power output needed to do it at 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 & 50 psi. Feel free to alter this however you'd like and what makes the most sense. But I think it would be a great segment and as usual, I'm sure you can have some fun with it as well.Thanks from a GCN Fan,Jon
I run tubeless Schwalbe G-One speeds 30mm on DT Swiss R 32 Spline DB wheels. I weigh 93 kg and I am smashing this setup over gravel and cobblestones. It’s absolutely faultless!
Run 3.5-4 bar in those babies and your road bike will ride like a Rolls Royce.
What bike do you have? And how don't you have problems with tyre clearance?
Sorry for the late answer. BMC Roadmachine 03 One. Up to 34 mil tire clearance.
how durable are these tires?
New conti 5000 TL onto mavic ust. Almost gave up but this video and others help.
First side goes on ok.
Second side work towards the valve. When gets tight cable tie either side where on the rim. Heat the tyre with hair dryer. Then as GCN use two levers. Still very difficult but got on.
Persisted as had paid for the tyre.
Massive hassle.. think will fit regular tyres next time.
This was a helpful video! Thanx GCN.
The most useful tip was a) rolling the tyre to spread the sealant, and b) removing the valve to maximise the air flow to force the tyre to seat.
I think it should be noted that in terms of larger tyres, e.g. mountain bike tyres then initially inflating with a co2 cartridges is better than a joe blow type inflator due to the fact that the co2 is delivered much more rapidly and hence you have a better system to seat the tyre. It has to be said however that the joe blow type pumps are really good to add increased pressure to put the tyre firmly onto the rim as it will work at a higher pressure . I.e. you get the satisfying pings of the tyre reaching home on the rim.
Hey. Thanks for the video.
It really gave me a good idea in which direction to go starting out tubeless. But there is no question. Tubeless is the way to go. So many struggles avoided after taking out the tubes. I found a good method for keeping pressure after your done inflating and the tyre is seated is to rotate and bounce the wheel off the ground several times. Maybe for about 5 minutes. Personally I have had some excellent results doing this.
Love the channel. Good motivation for myself.
I’m late to this party and also a square peg as I ride a trike. It is a high end model with tubeless “ready” wheels. I have tires on order and plan to make the switch as my current ones are nearly worn out at 1500 miles. three wheels means five tubes. Three on the road, one spare 20” and one spare 700c. I’ll be able to shed weight by only carrying two spares. Hope it works out to be worth the trouble of getting them set up. Nice video.
Si, thank you for educating me about the importance of not installing tubeless tyres (tires) on a rim that isn't designed for it. I never knew that and you saved me from making a dumb mistake of which could have caused me to crash and injure myself 👍
I've gone tubeless and ill never look back!! Love it
Simon you are a gun. That was top information ,thanks for putting it out there.
Ps as for service station not letting you pump up your tyres , just let them know how many thousands of dollars you (or dad) have spend on petrol.
super important is to place wheel for some time flat on both sides, it helps to distribute fluid on the edges : ) (where tyre contact rim)
Doesn’t the sealant just go everywhere?
I have used tubeless tyres on my road bike and I'm not a fan at all.
The first 200km on the tubeless was great, but after this 200km I punctured on every ride more then 80km. I must say, the sealant in the tyre did get me home every single time, but the entire back end of the bike was covered with sealant, and there wasn't much pressure left in the tyre..... If you used a hand pump to increase the pressure, most of the times the dried sealant just popped out, and you had a flat again..... the remaining sealant did reseals the tyre but only at low pressure (max. 4 bar / 60 psi)
So the claimed benefits of lower rolling resistance only is true for tyres that were never punctured ( Note: they really rolled well before the first puncture. They were noticeably better then clinchers ), after the first puncture it wasn't possible to put more then 4 to 5 bar (60 - 70 psi) into the tyre, so the gain in rolling resistance vs a clincher was totally gone.
I don't think I'll ever go back to tubeless (on my road bike) before they make a sealant that can resist pressures up to 8 bar /120psi.
I'm sorry , but I didn't faff around with pumps or soap and water but went straight to my tyre shop who seated the beads on both wheels for me no problem - and no charge! You definitely need an industrial compressor to provide that initial blast of air to really force the beads on to the rims. By the time I got the tyres home, they had partially deflated , but I wasn't too worried as I still had to inject the sealant. Once that was done - via the valves - I used my track pump to inflate the tyres to the proper pressure. There was one tiny sealant leak evident at the rim on each wheel, but the sealant had obviously done its job as the pressure was maintained, and continues to be so.
I have been out for 4 or 5 trips, and can certainly recommend the tubeless setup. I am running a pair of Yeoleo SAT C40 carbon wheels with Panaracer Gravelking SK 35mm tyres, both wheels and tyres being tubeless specific. I ride a mix of rail trails and tarmac and find that 40psi is just about right, front and back. The trail trips are now a lot smoother due to the reduced tyre pressure, and the Gravelkings can really motor on tarmac as well. I check the pressure before every ride, but haven't had to add more air as yet. All good.
I tried to pump one up to 100psi.
Bang!
well-made and helpful tutorial!
I uses a CO2 cartridge to seat the bead with no sealant in the tire yet. Then I let out the CO2 and put in the sealant. It will then inflate with a regular pump.
That’s a good option
That's what everybody does,who isn't sponsored by topeak 😉
That's my method too.
Weirdly though I found myself thinking, "Mmm, must get that pump." (I'm rarely, if ever, going to pump up a new tubeless tyre, and if I did I could probably use the local garage when they weren't looking; but mmm gadget. My current pump doesn't do that.)
Other pump makes are available :)
Lifeline do one that does the same job. I've got one, it's solid and just works.
I run bontrager R3 25mm on my bontrager Aeolus pro 3’s tubeless with 80psi front and 85psi rear. I’m 81kg and they run like a dream.
Always some well fit blokes on these RUclips biking videos.
Made my mtb tires tubeless today with the tips from this video! Worked very well! New bike comming in december and I'll make it tubeless straight away!
I have Velocity Aileron rims on my road tandem. Given the speeds we sometimes go, I chose Gatorskins for their puncture resistance. But a few months ago, I switched to Hutchinson Sector tubeless on the theory that I'd be even less likely to get a flat. I chose 700x32 rear, 700x28 front, 90 PSI both ends. They're smoother and roll better than the Gatorskins. Today I ran over a sharp rock that cut a quarter inch slice in the sidewall. Boom. Went flat in an instant. I wonder if the Gatorskins would have fared better. Remounted an old Gatorskin. Then ordered a replacement Hutchinson Sector tubeless.
I couldn't get my mtb tyres to inflate even with the sealant and using soapy water but when I tried to roll the tyre along the floor pushing down on it they pumped up straight away! Thanks that was really helpful 👍
Beadless rims/tires are now showing up as an option (ENVE-ZIPP-others) for road wheels. Ease of “BEADLESS” RIM manufacturing has reduced the cost and beadless has been proven in mountain biking. Tire pressure charts produced for this combo road tubeless are very low and claimed rolling resistance and puncture resistance are said to be beneficial. I’m running tubes now but have run tubeless for a season (different wheels) with no problems. My next set of wheels will likely be the BEADLESS style.
Things to add, your valve core will eventually gunk up with sealant, when this happens replace it(You'll notice difficulty topping up the pressure). Also if you have a compressor and air wand simply take the valve core out, push the wand into it and bam, should seat no problem.
Nice. Using tubeless now with my tcr
Another banger of a vid on the GCN, great content deliverd with aplomb.
If you’re worried about the tire blowing off the rim, you can always set the bead first, deflate the tire (hoping the bead doesn’t unseat itself) inject the sealant and reinflate
so it can be done w regualr tireon mtb?
Great one here, Si. Much appreciated. !
Hey! Your tips in this video helped me with a really difficult set of tires)rim set ups. Thanks!!!!
Im having issues with my tire as it wont inflate, i have no tape or air filled pump just a normal small pump. Any ideas ?
On the part about using tubeless specific stuff, you can get away with a non-tubeless rim and Gorilla tape. It is best, however, to get tubeless ready tires because, aside from previously mentioned reasons, they are designed to work with the sealant and the sealant won't bleed through the tire.
Tip #69.. If a big puncture happens and sealent doesnt work, cut a piece of old inner tube and glue it inside the tire over the puncture with rubberglue.
Something nobody tells you in this: 1. let the latex sit in the tire longer after you've run rim tape and got a basic seal without the latex. Let it sit and spin the wheel multiple times. 2. Ensure the little black line that runs around the tire is just above the rim and even. This will ensure the tire is seated evenly and doesn't have a bump or a high area. 3. The best tape to first seal the spoke holes is Gorrilla tape, just use a thin single layer, then I would recommend using Stans tape over that, again one layer. Im brand new to tubeless and this worked for me, where nothing else did. Also, pro tip: Initially inflate the rim with co2, cartridge, then use the pump after you hear all the nice pings.
Great video: I was allways wondering whether the sealant would dry out...answered, just like loads of other unknowns.
Cheers Si, ill go to Cadence tomorrow and get the bits and pieces and have a go !
that Topeak pressure gauge is the best tool a bought so far, I just love it ! super handy in jersey pocket when doing test laps before cyclocross race and searching for ideal pressure.
Hi, I have a Giant contend AR3, with giant Sr2 wheels which are tubeless ready. But I actually want to use inner tubes.. I'm old school like that. The wheel was set up with a tubeless tyre, but to use it as a normal inner tube wheel do I need to remove the tubeless sealant tape from the rim? Also, Is there anything else I should consider?
Thanks 👍
Lol Si's face at 2:29
p r e c i s i o n
Should you take off the tyre every few months to clean out old dried up sealant instead of just adding in more and more and ending up with a tyre full of gunk after 12 months?
Be careful using sealant with alloy rims. Stan's sealant corroded holes through my Campy Zonda tubeless-ready wheels. Can no longer use them tubeless. Friends of mine had the same thing happen with Dura-Ace wheels and Stan's. Might not be a problem with carbon rims. And I can't speak for other sealants.
Also it's some cases possible add tube inside tubeless tire if you get puncture which does not seal.
Been running Schwalbe on Campy rims - no flats in 5 years!
You need to ride more :p
About to purchase a Canyon Endurace with Mavics road tubeless system so I'll soon be tubeless on the road after years of great results tubeless on my MTB.
I have a question though, when using a pressure gauge what's to stop any sealant coming out of the valve and into the body of the pressure gauge? I assume over time this would build up and damage the gauge/affect its accuracy? I've been avoiding using my gauge on my MTB and relying on the gauge fitted to my track pump which I've tested to be pretty accurate.
I recommend 3 layers of rim tape. High pressure(road) pushes the tape into the spoke holes
Use Stan's yellow tape you can get away with 2
Vax Buster I use Stans. After 6 months it still pushes the tape in. I resorted to using the narrow for first layer and then 23 for the 2 layers. I run 90-95 psi
It's normal for the tape to deform under pressure, perhaps your spoke holes are sharp and puncturing the tape, try filing them smooth
Tubeless, the 'Commando' of the Bike World 😉
Within the metropolitan area in which I reside, most of the petroleum distillate dispensaries, have clerks working, who will cheerily, or sourly, activate the compressor, free of the normal compensatory fee, collected by the parental fossil fuel conglomerate, for condensation of a small portion of free gaseous elements.
45psi.😲 i pump mine up to 100psi and i fly along. I know they can run at lower pressure but should they??
Yes, they should. You feel like you're 'flying along' but that's because you're feeling all the little bumps in the road and you're actually going slower [or using more energy] than if your tyres were the proper, lower pressure.
The rougher the surface, the lower the pressures in your tires should be.
If you only ever ride on the polished floor of a velodrome, by all means run 160 psi, you'll probably be faster.
But for "normal" roads, I wouldn't go further than 70/75 psi as your tires are the main component of suspension on a road bike (which you need for performance, not just for comfort, but your ass WILL thank you too).
RollinRat Greetings! I’m 190pounds what pressures would you recommend on 25mm Road tubeless tires?
@@JoseGGuzman depends how smooth your roads are. 75-80 psi maybe, but if they're really smooth then could go up to 90 or so.
@@JoseGGuzman I'm in the same boat. 190lbs, Running 25mm Conti 5000TL and just went up to 100psi. The specs for this tire is 80-109psi. The 90 felt too soft, I'll probably go back down to 90.
Very good thanks very much
Never had it so good. What happened to the good old days when we glued the tubs on 😄😄😄😄😄😄
MuddyBootz use tape with tubulars, easy pezzy lemon squeezy
worked perfectly. thank you!
This video just saved me from rage quitting my tubeless setup!
Best way to get a seal without an air compressor is to make sure that each bead is out of the central well area of the rim when you start pumping. The increased diameter of the rim will take up any slack in the bead which, combined with sealant, will allow the tire to be inflated.
Exactly. I only have a floorpump and have had no problems pumping up sets of tubeless tires. What I do is press down on the tire where the valve is, making sure that the bead is pressed against both sides of the sidewall. Easy peasy.
Great video, thanks.
I'm looking for a durable pair of tubeless road/light gravel tires max 28mm. Options so far:
- Schwalbe Pro One TLE 28mm
- Challenge Paris Roubaix pro TLR 27mm
- Vittoria Corsa Control G2 TLR 28mm
What are your thoughts about these tires and do have more suggestions?
Just say NO to Schwalbe. I've got two cuts on each very soon after I started using them. Had to use some glue and patches.
#gcn #torqueback #askgcn
The number one reason why cars switched to tubeless tyres is that a punctured inner tube can deflate so rapidly that the driver looses control and crashes, the so called blow out.
I've now done over 1,300 miles since switching to a tubeless setup and won't be going back to using inner tubes for that very reason.
I just hate the thought of another blow out in my front tyre whilst going downhill at 40+ mph. It’s happened once and I couldn’t stop for the junction at the bottom of the of the hill, thankfully there was not traffic and I survived but I might not be as lucky again.
Peter Williamson true, but a tubeless is still a clincher and can still blow off, this is why a choose tubulars, the tyre is stuck on and can never blow off the rim. You can even ride slowly on a flat because the tyre protects the rim. I run 30mls of sealant and this fixes most punctures.
using tannus tyres for my commute bike. Don't have to worry about a puncture on my way to an exam.
I got a pinch flat on a road tubeless setup on Wednesday. #askGCN can you do a video on tubeless repairs using mushrooms, noodles, needles and patches?
I just ordered some Mavic Ksyrium Elites. This is going to be a total change for me. I'm still debating on just sticking a tube in and going with what I know. I'm 230 lbs. I'm wondering why the lower psi and how's it going to affect my fat ass. 80 psi and I'm in danger of banging the rim pretty good. Of course i have a small stock of Conti's and Rubino's!! Along with a bunch of tubes!! I think I'll stay with tubes for awhile. Let's see how that goes.! Great video.
I've recently gone over to tubeless... and they leak like a sieve. Maybe I’l try the lower air pressure trick but it’s annoying to have to stop and blow one or the other up every 30 miles on a ride (especially on days like to today when it’s well below zero here) and on some occasions, one or other drops in pressure rapidly which can be alarming.
Mavic Open Pro UST Tubeless rims, 25mm Conti 5000 TL. Peatys no tubes tape, fluid and valves. Any advice would be very very gratefully received. Salute from Switzerland.
should you clear out old sealant first when adding new every once in while?
Ps the contis pop on the rim very easily with track pump
You have to add fresh sealant every 3/4 month, but do you have to clean up the inside of the tire from the previous sealant worn out?
maybe once a year you need to take the gunk out.If you ride over 5000km a semester your tyre will be worn out anyway.
Good question
You don't have to add fresh sealant if you still can hear it splashing inside. Even if it isn't splashing and the tire isn't losing air - you still don't have to add anything, only con is that the puncture healing resistance will be weaker/non existent. As per annual cleaning of dried sealant - that might sound about right if you care about rotational weight... otherwise - don't bother.
I thought this would be a problem but the majority of the weight is the solvent that dries out, and after doing it 3 or 4 times the tire is worn out anyway.
I run 700x30 tubeless on my road bike when I'm riding on more remote roads. It is a lifesaver with all of the broken glass, shredded truck tires, and other debris on the side of rural highways. I have another set of tubeless compatible wheels with 700x25 clinchers. I'm considering converting those to tubeless as well, but I'm really wondering about the sustainability... i.e. the longevity of the sealant, and how often it has to be topped off, or just added too, adding weight to the wheel, eventually needing to be replaced... And I think Si really glossed over how insanely difficult it is to get a &$*! tubeless tire onto the *%#@ rim!
I found it pretty easy to get them onto a rim on my first go with a pair of gp 5000 s tr. They have a reputation for being hard to put on but with one plastic tyre lever and a tea towel for grip it snapped on without too much swearing
Dude has a ph.d in tyres
What do you do with tubeless tyres when packing to put on an airplane. With tubes you have to deflate them but if I do this with tubeless all the sealant will leak. I guess I could remove that and then replenish it when I arrive?
Its great but when you do get a puncture flat the mess can be a bit much and your mates faces might get a good spray as well, good way to get wheel suckers off you wheel though.
You can also use co2 canisters
When I get punctures I just put an inner tube inside it
I have a giant defy running 32 tubeless, I weigh 95kg. What tyre pressure should I be running?
Everyone raves about the puncture protection offered by tubeless systems with sealant but I can't really remember when I last had a puncture on my bog standard clinchers. I ride a fair bit and don't run anything special, in fact the tyres on my commuter bike are worn so thin soon I'll be riding on the tube.
John a Lucky you. I've had two punctures in 48 hours. Need to get some sealant in my inner tube...
Or different tyres
I agree. Over two bikes and 4.5k miles I've had two punctures. Both were impact punctures. Using standard tubed tyres.
means I can use ordinary tires with a width of 28 or 32, or even 35 mm at a pressure of, for example, 6-6.5 atm? in theory and very neat
hey GCN,
if my wheels are tubeless ready, should I install the tubeless tape and keep riding on tubes? or should I use regular rim tape on them as I keep riding tubes? thanks for your time!
you can use tubeless tape when you want to use tubes, no problem. (if you already have it - normaly its more expensive than normal cheap rim tape).
How much sealant to you recommend? The stuff I use suggests a mere 1-2 ounces in a 700 tire.
30-40ml road tire, 60ml trekking tire - which actually should also be enough for MTB tires, but on the wider ones you can also use 100-120ml if you want, this will help sealing cuts on the sides
Very helpful.
I am kind of confused.. is there multiple standards to tubeless tires? For example will ust tire fit non-ust tubeless wheels? Will non ust tires fit mavic ust wheels? How about wedge rim wall profiles? Some companies seem to implement it while some don’t. Does it have to do with any particular standards and compatibility?
I succumbed to attempting tubeless after upgrading my wheels. One year later and I still don't trust them. First installation, brilliant, no overnight deflation so took them for a ride and had a f&r puncture. Fixed tyre using patch on the inside (Schwalbe Pro one 25 mm), reinflated and went flat overnight, every night, no matter how much I rolled the tyre around to slosh the sealant everywhere. Each time I try to find the problem I have to deal with sealant flying all over the frame, leaking over the garage floor. Did I mention that it's messy. I rode my first sportive of the year with tubes and then realised I'd be better off with Continental GP 4000 SII's, especially if you consider that removing a tubeless tyre to fit an inner tube is well nigh impossible on the roadside. Did I mention that it's messy. Never had a problem getting the tyre to mount on the rim correctly, though.
Schwalbe are easy to get on but be careful if they’re too easy. It may mean you need an extra layer of rim tape to get a good seal. Too slack and sealant will fly out.
Double layer of Stans rim tape on Hed Belgium 25 mm rims. My other bike has Pacenti rims and I wouldn't even try tubeless as it's next to impossible to change a normal tyre without using tyre levers, so risking damage to a tubeless tyre bead on those is not even an option. I am committed to riding next season on tubeless on the Heds.
Using the same rims on both my tubeless bikes, one disc one rim brake. Double layer of HED tape on both and have had no issues so far.
You shouldn't need to put a patch on the inside with tubeless unless you need a boot to cover a gash before you put a tube in in an emergency. If the hole is more than a couple of mm in size use a worm to plug it from the outside and then let the sealant do it's job. The adhesive on the patch won't adhere properly to the inside of the tube because of the sealant on the surface.
I have to say I never use levers when changing a tyre. If it is seated in the well/dip in the centre of rim at the furthest point from where you’re trying to remove it and round to the side they aren’t needed... the combination has been many WTB’s and Schwalbe on WTB, Hope and Giant rims. Mind Schwalbe are the easiest to seat by a long way.
Lol the soap and water trick is just a desperate attempt to make us wash our shit. I'm calling you out Si
Lol. I really enjoy watching Si washing a bike. It's the pride he takes in it, and the fact that I don't have to do anything :)
I'm surprised he didn't suggest WD40
Vax Buster, that would have been the icing on the cake!
Rubbing alcohol works to loosen and lubricate the bead and wall.
Yeah, pretty sure soap & water isn't going to do anything if you can't get enough air into the tire to make the bead rest against the sides of the rim.
I used tyre sealant and inflator... Its works but i have no idea how much sealent is in tyre now ?? Any idea or suggests??
Love my Giant tubeless carbon disc wheels. Picked up a nail in the front, didn't even notice it until cleaning up after the ride. Pulled the nail, sealed instantly with just a little spit of sealant. ONE ISSUE - How do I prevent the sealant gumming up the valve internals?
Mike S get a paper chip and unwind it. When it gums up remove the valve and poke it in to clear it.
Want a video on how to clean a messy tubeless sealant :D
Soap n Water it's just latex
During a race how do you inflate these road side? CO2 or what?
46 psi in a 28c tyre?I suggest that Si has very wide rims.No less than 75 in my ghetto tubeless setup with a narrow i14 rim. I weight 73 kg.
I brought tubeless ready bike so when I got a puncher I tried to make it tubeless and it leaks so badly from the rim seal?
thanks - well explained - I'm converting
A proper tubeless must have the “ bee” sound when is pump the air pressure up?
I do have tubeless tires on my Giant Propel. However, once I got flat.. the tech at rest stop replaced it with inner tube and took out my tubeless valve stem. So it seems tubeless tire can hold inner tube, is it or not? I didn't notice and been riding my bike for few hundred miles not seeing any problems. Now, It is about time to change my tires. Errr I guess I need to buy tubeless version in order to fit it properly, doesn't it?
@ Jason
tube-type tyres will fit on a tubeless rim, you'll have to use a tube (making them 'plop' over the humps can be a bit tricky). And yes, tubeless tyres can be used with a tube, this even works with cars.
Hi there, this might be a stupid question, but how often should I just be topping up the sealant vs. actually removing the tyre, cleaning out the old sealant and replacing it with new?
depends if you generally leave your tyres out in the heat a lot but I refill the sealant every 4 months and fully clean them out after the third refill so roughly once a year for me
Tubeless for the win!!!!!!!
Gas stations not allowing you to use their compressors to inflate your bike tires? That is pathetic! I'd disregard them and do it anyway. Where I'm from it is completely normal to do that.
Station pumps are Schrader type. Most road bikes use Presta type valves.
It's not the pressure that makes it a stupid idea to use a station pump, it's the amount of air flow that counts. It's set to fill a much greater volume than a bicycle tire in a short time.
When I was a kid I heard it happen from a couple blocks away. Makes a heck of a noise.
In my country is perfectly normal too.
Those pumps are horrible. Ruined my last tube 20km from home because the dial was saying something like 40psi when it was actually probably around 150
move to Poland there is no problemo to use compressors on stations : )
Love ya Simon, but......why no mention of the valve stem mate?
What is the wheel, rim? Interresting to see a dt rim with a 28mm tire
So I what do I put on my old sew up rims? Do they still make sew ups. I thought sew ups where call tubular
I’m about to buy a used Bike with tubeless.
No clue what to do.
How do I change a flat on the road ?
Any different ?
tubeless on my road bike is a game changer, and use the CO2 inflator instead of a compressor if you don’t already have one.
Another great gcn video. Thinking of going tubeless on the road bike. What happens if you get a bit of glass or flint in the tyre? If it doesn’t tear too big a hole can you just pull it out and the sealant will seal it? The more you ride the deeper the glass or flint gets pushed in so thinking tubeless doesn’t solve these type of punctures? Any comment is appreciated 👍🏻 Cheers