What Happens If You Don't Look After Your Tubeless Tires?
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Tubeless tires have lots of benefits, but one thing you shouldn’t do is leave them lying around without maintaining them properly. Alex shows you what to do if, like him, you have some tubeless tyres that haven't been looked after, resulting in them going flat faster and the valve getting blocked!
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What other maintenance videos would you like to see us make?
how to install older tubeless tires with a slightly stretched bead
Bedding new disc brake pads and new rotors
How to tell, when your cassette is worn-out, changing the cassette, checking and readjusting the derailleur if required. You could also include changing the chain at the same time.
Adding cable tension to a front derailer via barrel adjusters on the bike or the in line cable barrel adjusters you can add if your bike doesn’t have that or any option that doesn’t involve what most of us do which is , pull the ever loving hell out of the cable with a pair of pliers while tightening the screw
Is there some preventative maintenance I should be doing on my smart trainer?
This has been a great vid on 'staying' with inner tubes for my road bike, thank you!
This video is really just a bad review of Muc-Off sealant clogging the valve. There are other sealants which don't clog the valve. You just insert 30mils of sealant every few months through the valve without having to unseat the tyre bead, and then be on your way.
Muc-Off sealant is good at sealing, but triples the maintenance time required compared to other sealants. And when ever you have to add some pressure, it takes forever and a lot of extra effort to push the air around the valve clog.
It's good that they are prepared to advertise weaknesses of Sponsors products.
I never left - staying with Tubes until Tubeless is much less of a faff...
@@drivemenuts3011 I don’t have that problem at all. I been using Muc-off for the last 2 years on 3 bikes.
I'm not that person but I really like Orange Endurance sealant, and I use an injector to do it right through the valve. Stuff like Stans has clogged my valves, but that has not, and it doesn't dry up quickly and leave behind "stanimals" or the like.
@@drivemenuts3011 I've found its certain valve/sealant combos to be the issue, ironically its the valves that have some kind of anti-blocking design to the inner opening + a high particle sealant, which, (double irony) means Muc-off valves + Muc-off sealant can be an issue. I much prefer the type that just has a rubber cone on the inside, if it does block, just poke it out with a spoke or something.
Great advert for the traditional tube.
That’s right, the venerable inner tube is so much easier. I have used tubes since I was 8 years old, even thick thornproof ones. But, I have not had any flats since I switched to tubeless. Today I just did what was described. Took me about an hour, then again I was in no rush. Sealant costs a hefty price. My tires were bone dry so to start over I added 90 cc of sealant in each. I use FillMore valves so they were not gunked up. That type of valve costs a bit too. So in the end I think inner tubes are cheaper. Plus you can service things even in the middle of nowhere. With tubeless though, I haven’t needed to- SO FAR. Really boils down to a choice. I certainly DO NOT want to see the end of inner tubes. Both systems have their place.
This is the best video to promote inner tubes. i was thinking about switching but not now lol. Great video though proper Ronseal, does just what it says on tin
Thanks for making a great video convincing me to stick with inner tubes!! (Not that I needed any convincing).
That video looks like it´s a lot of fun and reminds me why I continue with conventional tubes
I went to tubeless many months ago. Because I have had 0 flats since then, the amount of maintenance I have to do is far less than with tubes. After the first 6 months I opened the tires, wiped out the old goo, and replaced it with new goo. Recently one of the tires seemed to not hold air quite as well as it used to, so I injected about 20 ml of fresh goo in through the valve tube, and it is like day one.
I did notice that at my 6 month goo change, I had to remove a couple of thorns that had made their way into the tire, but those would have been flats on the road if I were still running tubes. I didn't even know about them until I felt around the inside of the tires at the 6 month service.
Being chiefly a long distance rider, tubeless --with the pool noodle inserts for safety-- permits the most amount of riding timed before nightfall. I no longer have to cut my rides short because of the time required to repair a flat.
That's my experience too! But to be fair, I ride low pressure and tubeless ready tires. Coming from an streetbike from 1993 it felt like heaven to change to a tubeless gravel bike. No puncture after 5000km now. Did everything, thorny bushes, shards, sharp and rocky MTB Stuff and muddy swamps (everything with 20kg+ luggage on the bike).
I've been 4 years on tubeless and do nothing to maintain them. You need a quality valve and sealants make a huge difference. Stan's is by far best. Literally never had a flat in 4 years.
What about the holes left by the thorns, do you just ignore them and let the new sealant fill them up?
I just about managed to get my first tubeless tyre on yesterday, was on the verge of giving up, but using compressor with valve core out and some sealant on the outside of the tyre helped to get the tube seated, some of the noises where a bit horrifying though, I think its the vibration of the metal after the tyre seats itself.
+1, went from a flat every 4 rides to zero (!!) flats in 3 years after I switched to tubeless. Used new bought, but the same tire (wtb venture). I ride stoney / rough gravel in the hilly forests of Germany.
if your tubes require any maintenance, something is wrong
Seeing all this I am so happy that I use latex inner tubes!
Totally agree.
I get flat tyres aaaall the time with inner tubes
@@_NoName... Or go tubeless and you don't have to settle for a 400g tyre with piss poor rolling resistance 🤷♂
@@_NoName... 20000 km+ this year to date mostly gravel on WTB Byways (slick, light, fast, supple) no punctures (that know of) no tube replacements. I can change my tyres in 15 mins, read the video title, this is NOT representative of normal TL maintenance, top up through the valve every 3 months or so 5 mins DONE. That's simplicity.
@@chris1275cc Simplicicty is not having to do anything with valves or being worried to have it done... kind of bias comment, really... the maintenance of tubeless is by far more hassle than inners, and that is a fact, not an opinion. Sorry man.
I liked WTB's tyres on my gravel, love that brand, I was using the riddler's, fast tyres as well, I will check the Byways next time i replace them👌
Great video. I was getting ready to make the purchase on everything I needed to go tubeless but after watching this video I have decided to stay with tubes.
You don't really need to do any of this though.... The only thing you really need to do is top up the sealant when needed (Some variation in different climates of how often you will need to top up the sealant humid or dry). Have been using tubeless for well over ten years on mountain bike (ridden extensively in Australia, NZ, Colorado, Utah) and now on road bike. Have never had a puncture on the road bike and maybe one issue with the mountain bike. Prior to going tubeless I would have had maybe a dozen punctures in a couple of years of MTBing. Generally you would probably be due to replace the tire before you would need to clean them like that.
@@cmarnold78 Thank you. I'll give it serious consideration.
Nice vid…changed 4 tubed tires while I watched…very entertaining.
Best way to avoid gummed up valves is to put the bike away after use with valves in the 4 or 8 o'clock position....pointing down(to drain) and high enough not to be immersed in any excess sealant. I use Muc-Off in my E-MTB tyres and latterly on my road bike. It's a REAL pain to remove, and I turn inside out the tyre, use a wire brush and hose to remove old sealant it doesn't wash off like in this video, though he looks like he's used enough for a plus MTB/fat tyre. Also need to thoroughly clean the beads of the tyre and the rims(use a plastic or wooden pick/skewer under the hooks). I switch tyres for the Winter/Summer on the E-MTB and am going to try Orange Endurance this time... And the road bike will be getting the same come spring now I'm on my autimn/winter road bike and the good one is on the smart trainer. I've had one puncture experience at Laggan Wolftrax- my own error running too low pressures and cased the rear wheel causing two tiny snakebite punctures but no rim damage- and the Muc-Off failed spectacularly to seal the holes....Lucky I was done for the day anyway and a short hop to the van! )Got some of those maxalami "anchovies" now for the next time...
is it ok to rest the tubeless wheel valve on the top to avoid gummed?
For anyone who has a totally stuck “rubber cement” style dried sealant and just can’t seem to get the bead to unseat…Run the wheel under hot water for a bit, it will loosen the dried sealant and make getting the tire off way easier.
is there any chemical that helps with the process? isopropyl alcohol maybe?
I think this trick depends on the sealant used. I've been neglecting my tubeless winter bike, and the tyres just wouldn't come off. I've contemplated the use of dynamite. In the end I just gripped the tyre in a vice and tore it off.
@@imilic8Muck off has a glue/sealant cleaner, works great
Great tip thanks
@@imilic8mineral spirits.
Why is there such a strong objection to dust caps? It seems reasonable to want to keep mud out of the valve and they hardly weigh anything.
agree and they add a nice bit of cheap bling !
If you've ever gotten grit in a valve when topping pressure, you'll always ride with dust caps after that.
With Presta It's a swings and roundabouts thing really, on one hand they offer some protection to the valve head from stones hitting them and crap getting on them/into the valve etc. Which is less of an issue on road bikes. But they also have a tendency to get tight/stuck on the stem (usually the aluminium ones and always in cold weather when your hands wont work/grip properly). With Schrader they are pretty much essential, they WILL fill up with dust/mud/grit if left uncapped long enough.
I have a couple of Star Wars characters as dust caps which haven't gone down well with some club members 🤣
I was gonna say the same thing, like the entire purpose is to protect the valve core. Why such hate on something that might save a trip to the bike shop for a new valve core.
Wore through a set of tires this season. I'll be able to easily install new tires and reuse the tubes. Hope I just didn't jinx myself on a flat free summer. Team Tubes for now.
Got a new bike last year , tyres tyre were tubeless prepared. Loved it initially, until I got a puncture which the sealant would not work on. Thankfully I managed to get home. Back to inner tubes.
Really? Is that a good reason to go back to tubes? You probably had loads of punctures you never even knew about before that day, and tubes always fail to seal anyway.
@@chris1275cc Most of the punctures I become aware of immediately because they result in me putting the tire in and also ending up covered in sealant.
The worst case with tubeless is you put a tube in it. Just much less likely to need to do it
Quitter
Get a Dynaplug, it's just not worth going back to tubes. I've just ridden my tubes again after indoor season, and they are just so slow. I'll remount my tubeless tyres asap.
Thanks for the video, Alex! Just went in my garage to rotate my wheels so the valve is at the top. Definitely prevents this type of issue. I started running tubeless in 2020 on my Salsa Warbird, and it has been running trouble-free for over 2,000 miles.
same error did at the beginning. The valve must stay at the bottom not at the top; that way possible sealant in the valve flows back in the tire
@@tecnico7676 thanks. 1st time tubeless owner.
I've been a roadie for decades! I had bought a 29er mtn bike for commutes to work thru the desert. The bike came with tubeless setup and I had no idea to maintain the tires. And after 10 months of daily commuting I had to change tires. When taking the tires off, I had ZERO sealant in both tires. Just running off air and still did the job somehow. I was slightly impressed and shocked
Went tubeless for about a year, gave up and went back to tubes. The sealant does not like the heat of the inside of a car, it seems... Leaked all the time, even after having my LBS do a complete redo. Just want something to work somewhat reliably for my lifestyl, so tubes it is
Another BS technology from an industry that consistently fleeces its customers imho
It is a very useful tutorial for my new TCR maintenance, thank you Alex.
Did a 60 mile gravel ride yesterday on a CX bike with tubes and cantilever breaks. Zero punctures and breaking was nicely modulated.
I use tubes too but if I expected a puncture on a 60 mile ride I'd probably give up riding, years go by without getting one.
Long overdue video, thanks Alex.
Oh boy. This whole video , as exceptionally well made as it is, is an advertisement for inner tubes. The idea to have to do this gunk cleanup etc (and miraculously no drop of sealant spilled which must be a technology's first), x2 wheels, for several bikes, _once per year_, really deters me from ever even trying.
Great video tjhough, and man, your workbench & Park toolkit makes every bike geek green with envy.
I was reluctant too, but one and a half years I am hooked. They ride really well and fast.
Yes some of the initial setup and maintenance is a pain, but it's very reliable. I do all the maintenance my self, 62 year old.
Cars went tubeless a long time ago for a good reason, less punctures.
most bottles of sealant comes with a little plastic stick you could use to poke sealant once the valve core has been removed. A small/narrow zip tie also works for this. I love tubeless tires day-to-day, but loath them once it comes time for anything maintenance haha
I like tubeless on my road bike but need to get up to speed on repairs, etc. Very useful video.
Awesome video and a reminder to check my own tires…lol…. Thank you Alex
All you really needed to do in this instance is clean the valve with a cleaning rod (like the wolftooth one, but many available) and top off the sealant. 10 minute job. All that crud on the bead IS what made your seal and will form again as soon as you are done setting it up fresh. If you really go to the effort to clean all the old dried up sealant out of the tire (which I didn't see you do) you would only save a fraction of an ounce (I have done this and measured the weight savings. It is negligible).
Thank you for the honestly Alex, I continue with innertubes until tubeless tiers work without sealant like in a car
You can, they just won't seal if you have a puncture
@@JamSa85 That is good news. Maybe I give it a try in the future.
I want to like tubeless, but what a giant PitA. In the amount of time it took to clean up and reseal the tubeless tire I could have changed 20 tubed tires. Never mind the mess all over the garage.
Great instructional video for tubeless-users. But to be frank: all this maintenance needed shows me exactly why i am still not convinced and using tubeless. No offense.
I was just about to write the same thing, I completely agree!
I think it really depends on how you ride. I've gone tubeless on my road bike because I'd like to run lower pressures combined with larger volume tires (50psi with 30mm tires). I don't think I could ever go back to tubes just because I no longer have any hand or back pain from longer rides.
Understandable comment but...1. Since I switched to tubeless I punctured at least 2 times a year and just realised once I was back home. 2. The maintenance of the video can be easily done once a year at your bikeshop for 10-15 quid. Give tubeless a try!
Odd response really. Overall tubeless is better, and by far the biggest reason is that (as featured here) the maintenance is done in the comfort of your home rather than in the rain by the side of the road.
It is easier than it looks. I do it on the go with no tools, just wet towels and a normal pump.
Never had a flat with tubeless in 3 years. Only people I saw having flats with tubeless are those who are afraid of tubeless and don’t do maintenance of the liquid. If you plan to take it to the bikeshop for maintenance, avoid tubeless.
It isnt more complicated than inner tubes, just different. If you are old and you don’t like new things, then avoid it.
And this is why tubeless in its current form won't become mainstream. Between faffing around with sealant and needing a compressor to seat some tyre/wheel combinations it is still way off being a general consumer product. And yes, I DO use tubeless tyres and have been for over four years. Given that I have been stranded more times with tubeless tyres than with tubes, it is really debatable whether they are currently worth the effort on "high" pressure installations. Good and helpful video though for those like me who are persisting with it.
Something is going wrong if you keep stranding with tubeless.
Tried tpu tubes for the first time last week, attracted by the significant reduction in size for spare(s) in my small saddle bag. Punctured 2 miles from home at the end of a 85 mile ride. Couldn’t see the problem. Unfortunately I didn’t have a spare at that time and my s/a patches were only suitable for my butyl tubes. Got home and eventually found a tiny 2mm slit in what was a brand new (that ride) tyre. So much for tpu’s improved puncture resistance too.
I've been riding tubeless road tires for 12 years, starting with Shamal Ultra on a frame that could barely fit a 25mm tire. The high pressure required for 'narrow' tires made mounting the tires a nightmare and the sealant would explode out of punctures. Now riding 28mm tires and it's SO much easier. Plus, not to denigrate the sealants with the glitter in mixture like the Muc-Off alex is using, I've committed to switching to Silca's carbon particle product, fingers crossed. Also, if you have trouble getting the tire to seat, there are several manufacturers of high pressure canister storage where you don't need to buy a new pump and they're very affordable. They pump up to 150 psi and release all that pressure in one blast.
That crusty sealant scab was gross yet looked kinda satisfying to break apart. Might have to check mine soon even though they’ve only been set up a month. 🤞🏻 hope there’s a scab 😂
Great video... But what a ball ache
Loved the video. It provided me the confidence & motivation to clean my tires from the old sealant (some of it dating back to previous decade) and to re-mount them with new sealant. Just puzzled how you did in 9 minutes whilst I wasted half a day :) well, at least my beer was properly chilled by the time I finished
I converted from tubeless to tpm tubes (tubolito), they are lighter weight and work amazing. fuck tubeless seriously. so much work, every 2-3 months that gunk dries up, sure i continue to use it but if i get a flat it's not going to seal. I only ever had one flat, on tubeless, it only temporarily sealed just to burst open again a few rides later and spray my back and bike with sealant.
aye another reason to stick with tubes ! what a faff and mess
Tubeless since 2016. My first tubeless wheels Stan's Avion(2016), second wheel set Roval CL50"s(2019). Since getting my Zipp 303 firecrest wheel set back in 2020 doing what Alex just did is way easier in real life. I have both "black wall" and "Tan wall" Conti GP 5K Str tyres, I don't wanna wear out the tan wall too fast so I switch to the black sidewall for a few months then back to Tan. It's really easy I'm 66yrs and I figured it out.
Yeah, I think I'll be sticking to my TPU tubes thanks. Too messy for my liking...
I run tubeless in my gravel bike I had my mountain bike using orange seal and yes once a year I need to do maintenance and check up on things and since I live in a very warm hot climate such as South Florida things tend to dry up inside from the looks of this video I’m going to assume that there’s no valve that will never get clogged up because I deal with the same thing it’s a real pain even when I want to air up the tires. So yeah even having orange seal tubeless sealant dries up and I have to peel the whole tire inside like a snake is shedding skin so it’s a little bit of a project time consuming but once a year I guess I can put up with it and deal with it , and even if it’s two bicycles I kind of do it when maybe I’m not up to riding or I wanna have like a rest day or a rest afternoon turn on some music maybe a beer or two and just go to work and since I’m not using my gravel bike lately I go in there and just spin the wheels to keep things distributed properly so it does not pool up or dry up In one location and especially the tire valve don’t want that getting clogged up even though it will always seems like the front wheel for me
I also do the music / beer combo for longer then usual maintenance jobs 🙂
I'll stick with latex tubes with sealant. Road tubeless is a messy, high-maintenance solution in search of a real-world problem.
Tried it but it never works, even with the tiniest of holes.
@@ribbyramone Interesting it hasn't worked for you. I've had it seal the kind of holes I usually get from pieces of wire (bits of car tire belt?). They seal and never leak again for the life of the tire. I wonder why our experiences are so different. FWIW I've used Stans and Orange Seal with equal success.
The only time I ever had trouble sealing was when I rode in March without having added any sealant since the previous year. I had to top off co2 twice, thankfully all out of the same canister.
The famous tire sealant barnacles 😂 really very very nteresting video.
I have a tubeless wheels Zipp 404 I still used inner tube with green slime. It works very well. No mess.
I don't use sealant anymore, especially, for new tire setups, I haven't been using it for years and I never had a problem, not even a flat!! However, I might use it if a tire is older and has a tiny leak, to seal that leak! think about it: Do you use sealant in a car tire? I thought so!
Also make sure to clean the valve outer thread which takes the valve nut. I've had some big gashes that the sealant couldn't fix, so I was going to put the emergency spare tube in -- only to find that the valve nut had seized to a point that it was impossible to remove the tubeless valve. I needed a pickup 😳😥
Great stuff! Thanks
This video clearly displays one of the main reasons I went back to inner tubes and clinchers after several months of trying tubeless: I simply cannot get past the disgusting nature of the sealant. What sane person wants to be greeted with goo all over the inside of the tire and rim during a roadside repair? (And let's be honest, punctures can still happen with tubeless.) I say this from personal experience: eeew.
I can't believe you even switched to tubeless in the first place.... I sure as shit don't want that hassle and expense in my life.
As informative the video was, there is one more reason I'm not going tubeless.
Last year, with tubes, 28mm tires and over 2000miles, I got juste one puncture, patched up on the side, easy peasy.
And we live in a place were it seems to be a regional sport to smash glasses bottles on random places in the road or cycle paths.
Still, tubeless seems like too much chores to me than "patching it up when needs be".
I get why one would prefer to go tubeless tho. But for me, it isn't a deal.
GCN, the only workplace where you can wash out your tires in the kitchen sink without being frowned on.
I’ll be happy to say “I refuse to do tubes and will stay with tubeless”. I have had more problems with tubes than tubeless (muc-off is my tubeless choice). I don’t worry about to much besides riding and not getting a flat (yes I been stranded miles away from a bike shop worrying if I’ll get another flat).
Great clip thank you. Have you got a view on the Reserve Fillmore tubeless valves. Sealant seems to flow through well and I haven't had the same clog issues.
Nice one matey.
you can take a pencil eraser gum and go around the bead of the tire and rubbing back and forth it will remove the old rubber that has dried on the tire. You can also use on the inside of the tire taking all the old dried up sealant off the tire. I use a brush on the rim to get the dried sealant out of the bead well.
I went tubeless last year, but was planning to redo the sealant before the season and was a bit unsure how to approach it. Now I'm not. The team inner tube can stay inner tubes for all I care. ;)
It's interesting that each video Alex does to try to educate us about going tubeless seems to put more people off. What does that say? Imagine if tubeless was here first, this gunky mess that was a bit of a hassle to maintain then, somebody invented inner tubes! People would be going mad for them, no more mess, easy to mount etc
Until you mentioned that you have to give up your puncture protection or buy heavy tyres with crap rolling resistance
The sealant in my MTB tyre was completely dried & it was very tiresome to clean it. I found that wet & dry abrasive paper was best but still very time consuming. I'm tempted to fit an inner tube like so many others
Inner tubes with sealant for me. Less mess and more reliable.
Thinking to make the switch after multiple tube punctures lately but still apprehensive, uuuugh! 🤷🏼♂️
After nearly a year my tubeless road tires were needing re-inflating daily and popping off a section of the rim confirmed the Stans sealant had completely dried out. Dumped in another 30ml, popped the rim back on and re-inflated. 5 minute job and normal performance resumed (top up a couple of times a month).
And with 3 bikes all TR, I'll stick to the innertube solution :-)
Inner Tubes are my friend.Tubeless is so messy, a lot of work preparing and cleanups.
I'm tubeless on gravel and road now, really am a convert and it worked great for me a couple days ago when sealant did its job and I was able to go another 45 miles after it sprayed out while I lost very little PSI. That was my road bike. On my gravel bike, I lose probably half the pressure in a day and can't figure out the problem. A video on diagnosing this would be great.
How many layers of rimtape do you use? My roadbike lost few psi when I only used one layer. My lbs said 2 layers is the way to go. On my mtb the gasket of the valve was a little bit damaged. I changed it carefully and now its fine.
@@MaxMustermannnnnn I'm using two layers of tape. Had a hole once when I only had one layer. Seems sorted, now.
@@MaxMustermannnnnn Thanks for the tips.
how are your rims and tires? my commuter bike is tubeless cause i used it as an mtb before i got a new xc bike. the rear tire deflates faster because the rim is dented and the tire got some weird damage
Rim tape is the issue. If you use bontranger wheels by any chance, they have plastic rim strips which actually hold pressure much better.
I suggest a modification to your two tyre rules.
1. Direction of rotation.
2. Line up your recommended pressure with your valve. Saves looking for it.
From my mate John, who owns way too many bikes...
This video illustrates EXACTLY why I'm staying with the TPU tube tech . . . no mess no bother and a TPU tube weighs not much more than the sealant ALONE LOL
TPU weighs less, and non tubeless tyres are also lighter.
@@Gianniz27 True enough !
Putting the rubber washer on the inside instead of the outside will reduce the gunk buildup around the valve stem on the inside of the wheel.
I was shocked too. I left a wheel with Stans sealant for about 8 months and it was pretty much dry, except around the bead. It was sticky and gooey and just very messy. It took me 30 minutes to clean each tire, plus another 30 minutes for each rim to get all the muck off and get the wheels and rims back to looking new. I am switching to the stuff you use...
The Park Tool part numbers make perfect sense to anyone with a degree of common sense and knowledge of the industry. I suspect you are talking for effect. TL means Tyre Lever and the numbers are the version or revision.
What part number system would you suggest?
Is that a Zipp 303S wheel? My bike shop fitted them to my gravel bike recently, as they were the only ones available, and I wasn’t sure they would be suitable for gravel. But I’m pleased to say they are great. Tubeless of course!
I use TPU inner tubes and Continental GP5000 tires on my road bike. I couldn't be happier with their performance. The ease of replacing a tube in the case of a very infrequent puncture seems like a small price to pay compared to what is involved with tubeless. But I can understand why those commenters here who used to get punctures monthly (or even more often!) were motivated to try tubeless.
I agree with the comments about needing annual maintenance being a pain but recently had 3 punctures in 4 days on a trip, so on balance its probably worth it....
Yup, sometimes you can see the spots where your sealant leaked out, mine are shiny vs. the dull color on the tire. Count your blessings 😎
You should used the SILCA product much better stuff, works every time.
So, if a rider just wants to not worry about tires beyond topping off the pressure and fixing that rare puncture, the biggest tubeless mistake he or she can make is going tubeless in the first place?
For roadies yes.
That's why I am still using latex tubes on my roadbike, where the advantage of tubeless is less than gravel or mtb
Think I will stay with my latex tubes.
nice thanks
im wondering you dont need to use tire lever to set the tire to the rim? just use high pressure pump ?
At the end, you said something like, "This is the only time I'll screw on the dust cap." What circumstance do you mean? After removing/reinstalling the valve? Valve core? After cleaning then adding fresh sealant? When filming a RUclips video? Frankly, I don't see the harm in using the dust caps all the time. Their weight is negligible, they keep the valve clean, and could conceivably prevent damage, especially on gravel. So please elaborate on this point.
I’ve never had this issue. Three questions or comments 1. No mention in video to how many months to get to this plugged valve condition. 2. My DT Swiss valve design is completely different and less prone to plugging 3. Use a different sealant. Why stay with parts that created the problem? 😊
It s not months its more like minutes with Muc-Off valves and sealant. Joe's No flats and cheap boring valves = No punctures, no clogging, no issues. Muc-Off stuff in general either sucks or is overpriced generic crap.
In my opinion, nothing has a better road feel than a good quality cotton sidewall tire with a latex inner tube.
So, all this maintenance work in order to avoid changing inner tube for that single puncture a year you get... Makes perfect sense to me...
a bit of off topic: i found a seallent for tubes. .. it soften up the ride when u running high presure ...Then the tube got slised on the rim cuz i didn check my bandage
60 ml of sealant per tire? What does sealant weigh? It has to weigh much more than water. Doesn't 100g per tire kind of defeat the benefits of Carbon wheels?
I put a drop of oil on the valve and core which seems to slow the accumulation of dried sealant
4:56 just this step took me ages and almost lost my nerve to a point my family has to be very far from me
I really don’t get tubeless tires!
The solids are no longer suspended in the liquid.. they have found areas to seal and stick to.... leaving just the liquid. Removing the valve and cleaning it and adding more fresh stuff is yeah the only way to go :- ) Nice ! Except I like Stans valves they dont catch so much gunk.
Don't use thumbs, use palms of your hands mate. I'll never go back to tubes. I've never had a flat with tubeless in the 4 years I switched. Still running rim brakes though LOL.
I have the habit to turn my wheels so that the valves are at the downside of the rim after a ride, so that most, and hopefully all of the sealant runs out.
More trouble than the perhaps 1 flat I get per year on tubes. Plus, if I get a flat, I can fix it on the road and continue on my way.
Nice
I have had my gravel bike for about a year, and did not bother doing anything more than add more sealant this spring. I also have a mountain bike with tubeless from 2019, which I never topped up and still holds air. I think I should try to up my maintenance game, but I am not sure it is necessary...
Not a bad idea to increase your maintenance a bit, it might prevent you from getting stuck somewhere.
The best way to get rid of those pesky bits of dried on sealant is to use a pair of workshop gloves with rubberised fingers.
Always leaving your bike and inflating with the valve at the top is the best way to help keep valves crud-free
Even better is to use a hair dryer to warm up the gunk, than it will detach from the tyre very easily
Biggest Tubless Mistake.... GOING TUBLESS 😂😂😂
Why would you not have a dust cap?
The have tendency to cross thread and/or get stuck, usually in mid winter when your fingers wont work properly 😅, with Presta not a big deal to leave them off, Schrader on the other hand WILL fill up with crap if left uncapped.
Good tutorial but it reinforced my stubbornness to continue using tubes. In this vid he’s cleaning up fairly dry sealant. I’ve been on group bikepacking rides and seen companions have fresh sealant migrate on hands, clothiers, and bags. Since I dimensionally set mine and wife’s tires to 15% drop (sometimes 18%) instead of trying to get it right with a pressure gage we end up riding at lower pressure than most do with tubes. No pinch flats. Our lower pressure gets us pretty close the presumed benefit of tubeless.
Waiting for the "I will stay with tubes" comments. 😆
well I sure will stick to them. Less complicated, cheaper, faster to replace any component. If you don't get a puncture for 2-3-4 years, you don't have to remember when did you last change the sealant.
Me
@@lg.studio
Totally agree with you.
I hope you have a plumber on staff to unclog your drain after sending that Latex down....
I so don't get tubeless tires and all the crap you need to deal with. I ride thousands of mile per year and spend maybe 15 minutes (annually) changing flats. No quart of cream to deal with, no special pump, no maintenance issues, etc. etc. What am I missing?
how long without maintenance??