The best advice I received to seal large holes in tub less tyres was to superglue a standard patch over the large hole on the outside of the tyre This patch will gradually wear away but will give the sealant time to do it’s job
Switched to road tubeless two years ago. Love it! Never going back. A little more work than clinchers, but you don't need to do this maintenance all that often. It does depend a bit on the kinds of roads you ride, possibly, but I haven't had to change a tire for a flat out on the road in two years and I have not had a spray problem (these are for pretty big cuts). I still bring a tube with me in the saddle bag, just in case, a CO2 to pump that up, and some paper towels (tire lever of course, as the tubeless tires can be a little harder to get on). It's great! (for me)
I recommend the Milkit system. You can withdraw the sealant from the tire and keep the tire pressure at 20psi at the same time the valve core is removed so the bead stays on. Milkit has special rubber flaps that open and close on the bottom of the valve when you put the syringe tube thru them and still keep the air from coming out. Then when you extract the sealant, you open the valve slowly until you see just bubbles in the syringe and then close it off at the valve. Then if the sealant is low, you just withdraw the needed amount of sealant from the bottle, close off the valve and then put the tube thru the valve core hole, open the syringe valve slowly while compressing the syringe until all the sealant goes into the tire. Then withdraw the syringe and re-install the valve core and use a hand pump to put the desired pressure back in the tire. I usually top off to 60ml on my 32mm road tires every 4 months and after 1 year the tire treads are worn out and need to be replaced.
1. Had my first tubeless blowout the other day and -- the comparison to Bishop getting gutted by the Queen alien is spot on. Thank you for rekindling that childhood nightmare image. 2. I highly doubt Froome is cleaning and seating his own tires these days. 3. Awesome and very helpful video as usual.
@@piffiiiiiiit I’ve stayed tubeless since, and despite many punctures, I’ve only had one that did not seal. I’ve had many century rides saved by tubeless.
I really do enjoy the improvement in ride quality with my tubeless setup but in all honesty, it just isn't worth the hassle for me. Not many great options for repairs in the field and fitting a tube to a tubeless setup can be a real challenge on the side of the road with sweaty hands and sealant flying everywhere. You certainly do get fewer flats but, you end up spending more time on the side of the road fixing the few that you do get. And the freakin' tires - the sizes are all over the place. Some fit quite easily but most don't play so nicely. It's just nice to swap a tube and be on your way in a few min vs. all the b.s involved with service and maintenance of a tubeless setup. I ride my clinchers way more often these days :)
Just gone back to inner tubes after thee years of tubeless horror. My Mavics never really sealed, had numerous flats, and some dangerous situations when the front tire dislodged itself from the rim while riding. Tried everything (new tires, new valves, bike shop help). Could never seat them with a normal pump so always had to ring a friend to use his compressor. Oh, and I haven’t found *any* upsides. Ride was fine, nothing different from what I have now.
you just convinced me to stick to inner tubes ! and I recalled that in a previous video you stated that rolling resistance is something of a myth ......
Thank you for this very informative and honest video, Ollie. The only honest and unattractive thing you did not show was the clumping of dried up and congealed sealant on one side of the wheel, if it’s a wheel set that has gone unused for a while, or the messy process of cleaning the mess from the inside of a tire. Also, would have liked to have seen the roadside installation of a tube into wheel/tire which held sealant. I really want to deal with that mess. Anyways, the video was more than enough to convince me to leave this trend for the baggy cargo shorts 🩳 set 🚵🏻♂️ .
Totally missed that many syringes now have a needle-like end that allow you to inject and remove sealant much more cleanly directly through the valve. The older screw-on kinds were always a mess. This is also a good way to remove sealant prior to servicing a tire/rim that requires a removal of sealant. Works great to get the majority of sealant out, thereby reducing a mess.
I've gone GP5000 28mm tubeless on winter bike, GP5000 25mm latex on summer bike. The tubeless is a faff and depending on set up, only marginal gains and some losses. The faff vs benefit balance is still too close to make tubeless a clear winner for me. The GP5000 + latex is actually lighter, more supple, less rolling resistance, less faff and not punctured once in over a year
Being new to mountain biking and having just purchased my first fat mountain bike with tubeless tyres, this has been very useful and probably the best video I’ve watched to date.
Thanks for that good video, it gives a good overview. It would be worth mentioning though that with the milKit valve system you can make many of these steps much easier and faster - leaving the whole mess away! Among other advantages it lets you measure the old sealant and add new sealant without releasing the air from the tire and popping the bead.
For larger holes that still leak I dismount the tire and clean the spot completely with brush and alcohol. Let dry overnight and Apply a Park VP-1 vulcanizing patch.
Tires with tubes can also self-repair with sealant inside the tube. I don't agree with running lower pressure. Tubeless tires can "pinch flat" where the casing sidewall splits open from the pressure of being squeezed between a rock and the rim. The setup is marginally lighter, maybe. You need to run more sealant than is recommended, and the sealant dries over time and must be topped off occasionally. The dried sealant inside a tire probably helps with sealing punctures, but it does add weight and potentially imbalances the wheel. A good tire with a latex tube or lightweight butyl tube is pretty good at rolling too. When a puncture is small and sealed by the sealant, tubeless is great. When the puncture is large and not sealed by the sealant and too large for a repair plug, be prepared to be on the side of the road for a long time sticking in a tube, assuming you brought a tube and proper tools to remove the tubeless core. And the mess, wow. Tubeless tires are good for racing on a relatively good road. I no longer train on them due to the hassles associated with the occasional flat and cleaning up the mess from sealant getting sprayed everywhere. A tubeless tire can be repaired from the inside using a piece of butyl tube and tubular cement. But inflating a used tire can be a real hassle. You will need a compressor or a charge pump. You may need to take some time to remove all the dried sealant on the tire bead in order to get a seal. Tubeless tires must be pumped every time you ride. They simply will not hold enough air from day to day. They are like a tubular as far a air loss. The tubeless valve core needs to be tight, otherwise it leaks. Oh, and the tape. The tape! what a hassle. Stans tape has worked ok for me. You need to double wrap and make sure that there are no air pockets! Takes real patience and a lot of force to get a good wrap. The bottom line for me is that I would not recommend tubeless road systems, even those with rims and tires matched (Mavic) to provide a better system. I just don't see the alleged marginal performance gains to be worth all hassles dealing with tubeless tires.
I ride in an area with a lot of roadside glass, and I switched to tubeless after a bad month where I had atleast 3 punctures a week. Over 10,000 miles later, I have never had to stop mid ride to repair a puncture. I don't even carry tubes anymore, just a mini pump and a multi tool.
Justin Brunjes that’s what I did, until this weekend. I hit a rock and the sidewall of my tire cracked. No way to plug it. I tried to patch it from the inside, but wasn’t able to seal the tire to the rim with my mini pump. There I stood in the middle of nowhere for 2 hours until a fellow cyclist offered me his spare tube. Lesson learned: always carry a spare tube.
To fix larger cuts, you can easily glue a patch on the inside. Just buy a thicker one from a car shop (not the bike tire patch), some good rubber cement and you are good to go. I have glued several patches to my tubeless tires (mostly Schwalbes but also Hutchinsons) and will NEVER go back to innertubes.
I started with one year using schwalbe pro one tubeless. One puncture, that sealed up good enough to bring me back home. Last year with conti 5000 tubeless, no punctures but i had to replace two tires because strings on the sidewalls where ripping off. I like the comfort of tubeless, but they wear out quite fast, i replace them after aproximatly 2000 km. I also used specialized turbo cotton with lattex inner tubes, their rolling resistance is definitly not higher, but they are more sensible, but i had no flats though. I guess tubeless being more save than tires with tubes, is an advertising myth, i allways have a spare inner tube with me and never had any serrios troubles. Just imagine you have to put in a innertube into a tubeless tire, far away from home. Lots of entertainment to be expected and cleaning up sealing residues is a mess. This year i bought conti 5000 tubetype for my second bike and for me it´s the best tire i have ever used, smooth, comfortable and low rolling resistance. For me it´s even more impressive than the conti 5000 tubeless tire. So as a result after two years and 15000 km with tubetype and tubeless tires, i like both of them, but changing to tubeless isn´t necessary. It´s just the industry and their advertising, suggesting that tubeless is really any better.
"How do you know if it needs replacing?" I don't think I heard the answer to that one, other than removing the tire, at which point it all spills out and you definitely need to replace it.
I like to check every 3 months or so. I take out the valve core and go in with my sealant injector, pull out whatever I can, and check for color and amount. If it doesn't look new, I replace all of it. If there isn't enough, I add more.
Take the wheel off and shake it from side to side. If you hear sloshing, you're fine. If not, time to replenish. The zip tie as a dipstick also works. Just depends on whether removing your valve cores and reinflating, or removing your wheels and reinstalling, is less bothersome to you.
@@harrylook7810 Do use presta valves or the larger auto/schrader ones? For presta, which brand of injector/syringe do you use to suck it out to check? Mine either don't fit into the valve shaft or get stuck with the particles of the sealant. For filling through the valve, I keep the small bottles with the funnel tip. For roadside refills anyway. To check if it's dried up, I dip a zip tie into the tire (or the plastic pin orange sealant does provide).
Great tech / tip on tubeless repair. Can you provide further details on how to fix a hole/leak on a tire if new? I have gone thru 3 tires this season (Pirelli P zero’s) which is getting expensive. Would be great to have some sort of “hack” that would allow continued use. Thanks an keep up the good work. Love all your videos!!
It can be a faf. Had a nightmare with various tubless combinations last year. On recomendation of someone who stopped while I was having another meltdown moment at the roadside, I swapped over to same tyres Ollie is using. 5 months on, so far so good
can I ask if you are still happy about tubeless? I ordered some new TL tyres for my new wheels and it's my first time but I didn't imagine it was a bit of painful maintenance...
I met a bloke who uses a brush to apply a layer of sealant to the tyre before fitting it. He reckons it helps it works better. Can't say if it works better but he had a good full day at Flyup without incident.
As part of a thorough maintenance regime I completely remove the tyre from the wheel and drain the fluid. Clean and inspect the tyre then remount and reuse the sealant that was removed and top that up to the right amount. If you just keep adding sealant in you have no idea of how much is actually in there. I also prefer to put sealant in before completely fitting the tyre, if you are properly setup it is not messy. It also does not take much sealant to block the valve which is why I do not like putting sealant in through the valve stem because residual sealant can find its way into the valve when it is refitted after. Yes tubeless is higher maintenance but the decreased risk of getting a puncture on a ride I believe is worth the extra effort.
Thx. Great vid. Very helpful. I did use these videos to help me set up my first set of tubeless tyres. Every point you’ve made is valid. It was tiresome LOL. But when I did get it to work, it was an awesome feeling. Keep up the great work.
I found that using bathroom silicon sealant in the inside of the tyre is excellent if you’ve got a big cut in the tyre that won’t seal, but you don’t yet want to throw the tyre away. Obviously needs to be done at. Home once you’ve cleaned the old gunk out.
Inspection, check. Sealant making a mess on bike while sealing a hole, check. Topping off sealant, valve core only; do not unseat tire. Top off with injector only. 60 ml is a lot for topping off. No need to reseat tire if topping off via valve. Good luck with getting the tire to reseat and not leak if you unseat the tire. Wiping off sealant is easy; do it out side if sealant is dried. Pipe cleaners work ok. Cuts in tire and plugs don't work? Cut a piece of thick butyl inner tube for a patch. Clean tube patch and inside of tire really well. Sand lightly inside and tube. Glue on with tubular tire glue. Works every time. I do not train on tubeless tires anymore. Royal pain in the butt dealing with cuts that won't seal via sealant or plug. You can run sealant in a butyl tube; it will seal small punctures such as tacks and thorns and glass. I use tubeless for races. By the way, you can cut a sidewall of a tubeless tire by hitting a rock hard enough to deform the tire against the rim edge where the rim edge cuts the casing. Yeah, no fun fixing that one. Have to put in a tube and boot the tire to get home. Make sure you carry tools to remove the tubeless valve core. And have fun with getting the sealant out of the tire! Messy! I live in Hawaii, Big Island. Topping off is needed about once a month. I was adding about 20 ml. When you aren't riding your bike, keep the valve at the top of the wheel so that dried sealant forms opposite the valve core.
Yes. Sealant on the frame is the best sign you had a puncture but it cleans up easy. As a weight weenie, I've got away with only 2oz sealant. Using CO2 is OK as long as valve is not at the bottom when inflating (that's where the sealant is).
I have used tubeless for several years now. No problems with holes in the surface of the tyre they seal well, but unable to get home on my bike several times due to cuts on the side of the tyre. Cuts do to cans or objects hitting the tyre hard from a passing vehicles.
For bigger holes than the sealant can fill try Stans Dart plugs. They have small barbs which stop the plug coming out after a few miles and feathers which are dissolved by the sealant to form a more permanent patch from the inside of the tyre. I had to use one in November 19 and it's still holding air after 1000 k.
Using Milkit Tubeless System for road bikes makes life easier. While injecting sealant into your tire, you won't unseat your tire. Add Stan's Darts and you are good to go.
Hi there! Thanks again for sharing so much information! I gotta a question about Co2 ... do you or don't you recommend it for tubeless tires... if you don't then what's your suggestion?
It's been two years now I'm leaving with tubeless tyres on the road bike. I'm not going back to tubes. Wheels are not aero, so the 28c's are a great option. Two things I've learned living with them: - leave the bike with the valves at 8 o'clock, this will help not getting sealant into the valves - why? Cause you need to pump in air way more often then with tubes, so sealant might come out from the valves or worse, does it job in there and seal the valve - still, my pump (yeah, the pump) eventually got clogged with sealant that would spill out (but I'm pretty sure I've learned the above two points)
Great advice mate from a fellow Doncaster lad, helped me make my mind up. Picking up my scott addict rc40 on Tuesday, and was in two minds about it. So getting some pirelli p zero tlr race 28 with the bike.
thats the best scene in the movie.. maybe bishop needed one of the Dynaplug racer .Ripley could have jabbed him with this cool little plug fixer... and away you go in your starship..brilliant..
After 4 weeks of experiencing tubeless tyres, I can honestly say, I’m done with tubeless. Having the slime spray all over me, my bike, my riding mates, etc., plugs failing, the difficultly of getting them on-and-off the rims…it was much easier to deal with latex tubes. Tubeless may be great for mountain bikes, but I’m definitely not feeling the tubeless love for road bikes.
Just gone tubeless on a trike from ICE made in the UK. I’m still debating if it is worth significant trouble thus far. The rear wheel is 700X 25. Fronts are 406. Schwalbe seems to be the only game in town for tubeless in 20” size. No problem seating the 700 with an air shot canister. The fronts are impossible to seat without going to a shop. One will absolutely not seat. I filled out a warranty claim with Schwalbe which I’m happy to say resulted in a coupon for a free tire. Good news as they are $81 each. I’m losing air from a puncture which appears to self repair as soap suds show no air loss. It does lose air during a ride. Do I patch from the inside or can it be plugged from the outside without losing my bead? Signed; stumped trike enthusiast.
Another way to tell if the sealant in your tyre needs a top up is to give the wheel a good shake near you ear and if you can’t hear liquid squishing about then it’s a good time to top up!
There's hardly a need to check sealant levels. Just shake the wheel and listen for the sealant sloshing around. If there's enough sealant to slosh around, there's enough to seal a hole. Top up as and when you don't hear anymore sloshing. Oh, and a couple of pro tips; firstly, don't ever mix sealants with one from another brand. Some can react with each other and solidify. Also, CO2 cartridges does freeze up sealant, but that doesn't mean the sealant would thaw out. Basically, freezing the sealant would cause it to start to solidify. The trick to avoid this is just to position your valve at the 12 o'clock position before you hit it with CO2. This would place the sealant at the bottom of the wheel, away from the direct burst of freezing CO2 rushing in through the stem.
@@Snipeonz Thank you very much for the detailed reply. I did check my tyres 2 days ago. I had filled them with sealant about 3 months ago. I removed the front wheel, but couldn't hear the sealant sloshing around. So I deflated the tyre, removed the valve core and with valve at the 6 o'clock position. Gently pressed the wheel down, until the sealant started to come out of the valve. So I assumed I'm OK for another month at least, before I'll check again.
@andrew lam comment of the year. Thanks for the great advice. A question I can’t seem to find the answer to though: when sealant dries out, and you top up the tire with more, are you basically adding more liquid in addition to the dried up mass already in there? Would you eventually, theoretically speaking, creating a big layer of gunk that adds 30 or so mg of weight with every top up? When is it time to crack the thing open and start from scratch?
My experience with tubeless tires has been a total disaster and I'm done with it. Less than two weeks after setting up my Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon UST's fully tubeless (they came with tubes installed) I had a puncture while out on a ride. Sealant absolutely exploded everywhere and no matter what I tried it would not seal. It wasn't even that big of a cut - just a tiny piece of glass, really a small hole that I would have expected to be no problem but no, not a chance. I had to use a rubber tire plug so I could limp home. Once back home it took me about 2 hours to clean all the dried up sealant from inside my brake calipers, front and rear mechs and from ALL OVER my bike. Also my literally brand new (first time wearing it) pricey Rapha jersey was splattered all over with sealant that wouldn't wash out - ruined. So, in conclusion - the tubeless tires are in the bin and I will never go there again. What a monumentally frustrating, messy pain in the arse. Nothing at all wrong with a good old fashioned inner tube - I'm going back and won't bother with Tubeless again.
I am putting my bike on the attic during winter and take out my old alu bike. But how do you maintain tubeless tyres during this leave of duty or what do you need to do when you go out in the spring again.
"I don't know how I got this job" I'm sure riding Si's new Pinarello (that he's not even ridden yet) through the mud - for science! - has nothing to do with it ;)
@@enriqueDFTL I just swirched to see what the big deal was, and as a weeked warrior, I don't notice a difference. There's a weight savings, sure, but that's about it. Theres no noticeable air loss one over the other. I have such varied temps here, that I'm always having to add air, it seems, so I'm not a good one to ask on that.
Yes it seems quite a faf to me, also you have to remember tubeless tyres are twice the price, I have tubeless rims but I have fitted good quality standard tyres and tubes, technology will improve and prices will fall, but for now I'm ok with what I have
Being new to all this Ollie, maybe yourself and or subscribers can help me with what would i need (in terms of spares or repairs) on a long solo ride with tubeless tyres?
There is a smart thing called "Milk It" in the Mtb-world...you can check and refill your sealent very effective with it. It should work also with roadie tires i guess...
When simply adding sealant through the valve stem how does one know how much to add? I've used a self adhering tube patch on the inside of tires with success when the hole was too large for a plug.
Question: if I have a aluminum frame with a carbon seat post do I need fibergrip? Won’t some greases corrode carbon? Does the same go for handlebars and stem?
I’m not familiar with tubeless tires, being a senior and having never use them. My question is what kind of rims do you have to buy to use tubeless tires, how do you keep the air and sealant from leaking out around the spoke nipples or is there some kind of magic rim tape?
Or use a pre-measured sealant bottle. Already packed with sealant. No guessing. With it’s conical/needle nose tip, makes for easy valve insertion. Then dispense into the tire carefully until empty and wulah! No fuss, no muss.
Hey Ollie, I have a question about sealant in a cold garage. In Colorado it can get very cold in the winter in the garage. What will that do to the sealant?
I found that taking the valve core out (and removing the syringe tube thingy) when the valve is at the bottom results in sealant bubbling out of the valve stem and making a mess. Doing it when the valve is at the top of the wheel might get one or two drops, but far less messy
Thank you very much GCN am turning my road bike into a tubelesss. Am excited to ride for more miles..... So gratefullll....punctures limited me great but no more no more Long live the art of cycling
"Full-filling," please... I finally converted to tubeless like all of the other cool kids for all of their purported benefits, especially puncture resistance. I got a flat the first time out. I as very deflated.
I have a wheelset with with Mavic UST and Mavic tires. When I bought them last year they put Mavic sealant in them. I also have a set of gravel wheels and Maxxis Rambler tires with Stan's no tubes sealant in them. It has been one year, done a couple of rides and races, luckily no punctures, but it's long overdue to change the sealant in both sets of wheels. I bought two 140 ml packs of Muc-off No tubes sealant. I read some online reviews and they clearly come out the winner most times. Questions...Do I have to remove the rim tape? How clean do the tires and wheels actually have to get? Can I mix the sealants? Is it a big problem if you do? I am not looking forward to this job. The sealant is extremely expensive here. The best I could find it for was 15 dollars Canadian per 140 ml pack! I got a gravel adventure race in April. Gotta get this done. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks Ollie.
Damian Calderari Hopefully you’ve scrolled through and read the other comments. Do NOT mix sealant; they can clog together. You could try contacting the Muc-Off folks and ask if they’ve done any testing by mixing their product on top of other brands to cover all bases but I think they’ll say “no”. The old stuff should clean completely with plain warm water or mild soapy water and a sponge and you should not have to remove rim tape, if present (some wheels don’t need tape). With regards to costs, it’s less expensive than a pile of tubes or having tubulars glued up! Hope that helps.
Do you need to empty out or clean the old sealant before adding new? or do you just add 25ml every month or so? how frequent do you have to be riding to even calculate these?
3:35 how can sealant escape if you keep the wheel in a way that the valve is on the upper side? Sealant is liquid and will flow to the bottom half of you tire.
Indeed, since gravity will have the liquid accumulate at the bottom, if the core is taken out when the valve is in the lower part, the liquid will escape through the valve ... It has been my experience
I usually put the bike on the stand, position valves at 10 or 2 then let it sit for a few minutes before I let air and remove the core. I fill from this position too with the hose pointing to the bottom
I wish I view this video beforehand. Had heaps of trouble with tubeless tyres. I was away for six months and the tyre completely deflated and the tyre warped. Do I use the soapy water method to unwarp it?
I would suggest a winter annual, deflate, clean everything, fill new fluid , re-inflate and you're good to go... Why wait for things to happen when you are far from anywhere?
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Forgot to let the air out first... valve core currently somewhere in the upper stratosphere. 🙄
🤣🤣
The best advice I received to seal large holes in tub less tyres was to superglue a standard patch over the large hole on the outside of the tyre This patch will gradually wear away but will give the sealant time to do it’s job
Switched to road tubeless two years ago. Love it! Never going back. A little more work than clinchers, but you don't need to do this maintenance all that often. It does depend a bit on the kinds of roads you ride, possibly, but I haven't had to change a tire for a flat out on the road in two years and I have not had a spray problem (these are for pretty big cuts). I still bring a tube with me in the saddle bag, just in case, a CO2 to pump that up, and some paper towels (tire lever of course, as the tubeless tires can be a little harder to get on). It's great! (for me)
Omg Ollie got through a entire video without mentioning his hour record once. That is a new record.
Pity it wasnt an hour long show 😂🤣
Soon, he will probably do a vid on his famous rides of the past, just so we don't forget :)
Clear, organized, concise, pertinent, thank you!
I recommend the Milkit system. You can withdraw the sealant from the tire and keep the tire pressure at 20psi at the same time the valve core is removed so the bead stays on. Milkit has special rubber flaps that open and close on the bottom of the valve when you put the syringe tube thru them and still keep the air from coming out. Then when you extract the sealant, you open the valve slowly until you see just bubbles in the syringe and then close it off at the valve. Then if the sealant is low, you just withdraw the needed amount of sealant from the bottle, close off the valve and then put the tube thru the valve core hole, open the syringe valve slowly while compressing the syringe until all the sealant goes into the tire. Then withdraw the syringe and re-install the valve core and use a hand pump to put the desired pressure back in the tire. I usually top off to 60ml on my 32mm road tires every 4 months and after 1 year the tire treads are worn out and need to be replaced.
This.
Does it work on Presta valves ?
1. Had my first tubeless blowout the other day and -- the comparison to Bishop getting gutted by the Queen alien is spot on. Thank you for rekindling that childhood nightmare image.
2. I highly doubt Froome is cleaning and seating his own tires these days.
3. Awesome and very helpful video as usual.
I was debating going tubeless but this sounds like so much work.
Edit: I went tubeless last night!
How's it going? I'm debating going tubeless too!
@@piffiiiiiiit I’ve stayed tubeless since, and despite many punctures, I’ve only had one that did not seal. I’ve had many century rides saved by tubeless.
@@Darsithis thanks for the feedback 👍
😂 my exp exactly
Are you using tubeless tyres? Let us know how you find them! 👇
I keep screwing up my tubeless tyres, this really helped hahaha. thx
Got my first ever set when I bought my Giant Defy Advanced Pro last year. That was in August. I feel like I need to maintain them now!
@@AnvilAirsoftTV biannual maintenance is recommended by most sealant brands
Weigh your tubeless setup without sealant and with immediately after you set it up. This makes for easier estimation of sealant to be replaced.
kenneth street sounds like it’s about time then. Thanks.
I really do enjoy the improvement in ride quality with my tubeless setup but in all honesty, it just isn't worth the hassle for me. Not many great options for repairs in the field and fitting a tube to a tubeless setup can be a real challenge on the side of the road with sweaty hands and sealant flying everywhere. You certainly do get fewer flats but, you end up spending more time on the side of the road fixing the few that you do get. And the freakin' tires - the sizes are all over the place. Some fit quite easily but most don't play so nicely. It's just nice to swap a tube and be on your way in a few min vs. all the b.s involved with service and maintenance of a tubeless setup. I ride my clinchers way more often these days :)
Just gone back to inner tubes after thee years of tubeless horror. My Mavics never really sealed, had numerous flats, and some dangerous situations when the front tire dislodged itself from the rim while riding. Tried everything (new tires, new valves, bike shop help). Could never seat them with a normal pump so always had to ring a friend to use his compressor. Oh, and I haven’t found *any* upsides. Ride was fine, nothing different from what I have now.
you just convinced me to stick to inner tubes ! and I recalled that in a previous video you stated that rolling resistance is something of a myth ......
Thank you for this very informative and honest video, Ollie. The only honest and unattractive thing you did not show was the clumping of dried up and congealed sealant on one side of the wheel, if it’s a wheel set that has gone unused for a while, or the messy process of cleaning the mess from the inside of a tire. Also, would have liked to have seen the roadside installation of a tube into wheel/tire which held sealant. I really want to deal with that mess. Anyways, the video was more than enough to convince me to leave this trend for the baggy cargo shorts 🩳 set 🚵🏻♂️ .
I already had to install a tube during a ride, it was not so messy, I used a kleenex for cleaning
I run a local shop so thank you for the loads of people that will now attempt to seat a TLR bead and take it to me after they give up.
Totally missed that many syringes now have a needle-like end that allow you to inject and remove sealant much more cleanly directly through the valve. The older screw-on kinds were always a mess. This is also a good way to remove sealant prior to servicing a tire/rim that requires a removal of sealant. Works great to get the majority of sealant out, thereby reducing a mess.
I've gone GP5000 28mm tubeless on winter bike, GP5000 25mm latex on summer bike. The tubeless is a faff and depending on set up, only marginal gains and some losses. The faff vs benefit balance is still too close to make tubeless a clear winner for me. The GP5000 + latex is actually lighter, more supple, less rolling resistance, less faff and not punctured once in over a year
Being new to mountain biking and having just purchased my first fat mountain bike with tubeless tyres, this has been very useful and probably the best video I’ve watched to date.
Thanks for that good video, it gives a good overview. It would be worth mentioning though that with the milKit valve system you can make many of these steps much easier and faster - leaving the whole mess away! Among other advantages it lets you measure the old sealant and add new sealant without releasing the air from the tire and popping the bead.
For larger holes that still leak I dismount the tire and clean the spot completely with brush and alcohol. Let dry overnight and Apply a Park VP-1 vulcanizing patch.
Tires with tubes can also self-repair with sealant inside the tube. I don't agree with running lower pressure. Tubeless tires can "pinch flat" where the casing sidewall splits open from the pressure of being squeezed between a rock and the rim. The setup is marginally lighter, maybe. You need to run more sealant than is recommended, and the sealant dries over time and must be topped off occasionally. The dried sealant inside a tire probably helps with sealing punctures, but it does add weight and potentially imbalances the wheel. A good tire with a latex tube or lightweight butyl tube is pretty good at rolling too. When a puncture is small and sealed by the sealant, tubeless is great. When the puncture is large and not sealed by the sealant and too large for a repair plug, be prepared to be on the side of the road for a long time sticking in a tube, assuming you brought a tube and proper tools to remove the tubeless core. And the mess, wow. Tubeless tires are good for racing on a relatively good road. I no longer train on them due to the hassles associated with the occasional flat and cleaning up the mess from sealant getting sprayed everywhere. A tubeless tire can be repaired from the inside using a piece of butyl tube and tubular cement. But inflating a used tire can be a real hassle. You will need a compressor or a charge pump. You may need to take some time to remove all the dried sealant on the tire bead in order to get a seal. Tubeless tires must be pumped every time you ride. They simply will not hold enough air from day to day. They are like a tubular as far a air loss. The tubeless valve core needs to be tight, otherwise it leaks. Oh, and the tape. The tape! what a hassle. Stans tape has worked ok for me. You need to double wrap and make sure that there are no air pockets! Takes real patience and a lot of force to get a good wrap. The bottom line for me is that I would not recommend tubeless road systems, even those with rims and tires matched (Mavic) to provide a better system. I just don't see the alleged marginal performance gains to be worth all hassles dealing with tubeless tires.
I ride in an area with a lot of roadside glass, and I switched to tubeless after a bad month where I had atleast 3 punctures a week. Over 10,000 miles later, I have never had to stop mid ride to repair a puncture. I don't even carry tubes anymore, just a mini pump and a multi tool.
Justin Brunjes that’s what I did, until this weekend. I hit a rock and the sidewall of my tire cracked. No way to plug it. I tried to patch it from the inside, but wasn’t able to seal the tire to the rim with my mini pump. There I stood in the middle of nowhere for 2 hours until a fellow cyclist offered me his spare tube. Lesson learned: always carry a spare tube.
I just got my first tubeless bike, and I found this video to be very well-presented and informative... thanks!
To fix larger cuts, you can easily glue a patch on the inside. Just buy a thicker one from a car shop (not the bike tire patch), some good rubber cement and you are good to go. I have glued several patches to my tubeless tires (mostly Schwalbes but also Hutchinsons) and will NEVER go back to innertubes.
I started with one year using schwalbe pro one tubeless. One puncture, that sealed up good enough to bring me back home.
Last year with conti 5000 tubeless, no punctures but i had to replace two tires because strings on the sidewalls where ripping off.
I like the comfort of tubeless, but they wear out quite fast, i replace them after aproximatly 2000 km.
I also used specialized turbo cotton with lattex inner tubes, their rolling resistance is definitly not higher,
but they are more sensible, but i had no flats though.
I guess tubeless being more save than tires with tubes, is an advertising myth, i allways have a spare inner tube with me and never had any serrios troubles.
Just imagine you have to put in a innertube into a tubeless tire, far away from home. Lots of entertainment to be expected and cleaning up sealing residues is a mess.
This year i bought conti 5000 tubetype for my second bike and for me it´s the best tire i have ever used, smooth, comfortable and low rolling resistance.
For me it´s even more impressive than the conti 5000 tubeless tire.
So as a result after two years and 15000 km with tubetype and tubeless tires, i like both of them, but changing to tubeless isn´t necessary.
It´s just the industry and their advertising, suggesting that tubeless is really any better.
I’m new to tubeless. Thanks for the great informative video
"How do you know if it needs replacing?" I don't think I heard the answer to that one, other than removing the tire, at which point it all spills out and you definitely need to replace it.
I like to check every 3 months or so. I take out the valve core and go in with my sealant injector, pull out whatever I can, and check for color and amount. If it doesn't look new, I replace all of it. If there isn't enough, I add more.
most sealants need replacing after 3 months, especially in the summer. With some you may get away with 6 months.
Take the wheel off and shake it from side to side. If you hear sloshing, you're fine. If not, time to replenish. The zip tie as a dipstick also works. Just depends on whether removing your valve cores and reinflating, or removing your wheels and reinstalling, is less bothersome to you.
New to tubeless. If you are continuously topping it up do you eventually have to clean it out and start again? If so how often would that be? Thanks.
@@harrylook7810 Do use presta valves or the larger auto/schrader ones? For presta, which brand of injector/syringe do you use to suck it out to check? Mine either don't fit into the valve shaft or get stuck with the particles of the sealant. For filling through the valve, I keep the small bottles with the funnel tip. For roadside refills anyway. To check if it's dried up, I dip a zip tie into the tire (or the plastic pin orange sealant does provide).
Thanks Ollie. Going to replace my old, and slow punctured, tubeless tyre. First attempt at this.
I set up the gravel bike ghetto tubeless this weekend. Went up with the track pump first time! boom.
Great tech / tip on tubeless repair. Can you provide further details on how to fix a hole/leak on a tire if new? I have gone thru 3 tires this season (Pirelli P zero’s) which is getting expensive. Would be great to have some sort of “hack” that would allow continued use. Thanks an keep up the good work. Love all your videos!!
It can be a faf. Had a nightmare with various tubless combinations last year. On recomendation of someone who stopped while I was having another meltdown moment at the roadside, I swapped over to same tyres Ollie is using. 5 months on, so far so good
Very helpful vid. I just swapped over to tubeless and loving the ride so far. Especially love not having to tote so much stuff around in my jersey.
can I ask if you are still happy about tubeless? I ordered some new TL tyres for my new wheels and it's my first time but I didn't imagine it was a bit of painful maintenance...
I met a bloke who uses a brush to apply a layer of sealant to the tyre before fitting it. He reckons it helps it works better. Can't say if it works better but he had a good full day at Flyup without incident.
Introducing sealant through valve stem is the only rational way. Way cleaner period.
As part of a thorough maintenance regime I completely remove the tyre from the wheel and drain the fluid. Clean and inspect the tyre then remount and reuse the sealant that was removed and top that up to the right amount. If you just keep adding sealant in you have no idea of how much is actually in there. I also prefer to put sealant in before completely fitting the tyre, if you are properly setup it is not messy. It also does not take much sealant to block the valve which is why I do not like putting sealant in through the valve stem because residual sealant can find its way into the valve when it is refitted after. Yes tubeless is higher maintenance but the decreased risk of getting a puncture on a ride I believe is worth the extra effort.
Great video. Best one I’ve ever seen on tubeless. I’ve converted and wished I’d seen this first, but it’s still helpful now. Much thanks.
Thx. Great vid. Very helpful. I did use these videos to help me set up my first set of tubeless tyres. Every point you’ve made is valid. It was tiresome LOL. But when I did get it to work, it was an awesome feeling. Keep up the great work.
I found that using bathroom silicon sealant in the inside of the tyre is excellent if you’ve got a big cut in the tyre that won’t seal, but you don’t yet want to throw the tyre away. Obviously needs to be done at. Home once you’ve cleaned the old gunk out.
Inspection, check. Sealant making a mess on bike while sealing a hole, check. Topping off sealant, valve core only; do not unseat tire. Top off with injector only. 60 ml is a lot for topping off. No need to reseat tire if topping off via valve. Good luck with getting the tire to reseat and not leak if you unseat the tire. Wiping off sealant is easy; do it out side if sealant is dried. Pipe cleaners work ok. Cuts in tire and plugs don't work? Cut a piece of thick butyl inner tube for a patch. Clean tube patch and inside of tire really well. Sand lightly inside and tube. Glue on with tubular tire glue. Works every time. I do not train on tubeless tires anymore. Royal pain in the butt dealing with cuts that won't seal via sealant or plug. You can run sealant in a butyl tube; it will seal small punctures such as tacks and thorns and glass. I use tubeless for races. By the way, you can cut a sidewall of a tubeless tire by hitting a rock hard enough to deform the tire against the rim edge where the rim edge cuts the casing. Yeah, no fun fixing that one. Have to put in a tube and boot the tire to get home. Make sure you carry tools to remove the tubeless valve core. And have fun with getting the sealant out of the tire! Messy! I live in Hawaii, Big Island. Topping off is needed about once a month. I was adding about 20 ml. When you aren't riding your bike, keep the valve at the top of the wheel so that dried sealant forms opposite the valve core.
Thanks, Ollie I'm new to tubeless tyres and I'm ready for any issues I may come accross.
I don't have tubeless, but very interesting video. Well done Ollie
This is a great video, it helps explain why I will never go tubeless :)
Thank you for the advice at 08:10 onwards. My wife's Giant PR2 wheels have clogged on several occasions!
Yes. Sealant on the frame is the best sign you had a puncture but it cleans up easy.
As a weight weenie, I've got away with only 2oz sealant.
Using CO2 is OK as long as valve is not at the bottom when inflating (that's where the sealant is).
I have used tubeless for several years now. No problems with holes in the surface of the tyre they seal well, but unable to get home on my bike several times due to cuts on the side of the tyre. Cuts do to cans or objects hitting the tyre hard from a passing vehicles.
For bigger holes than the sealant can fill try Stans Dart plugs. They have small barbs which stop the plug coming out after a few miles and feathers which are dissolved by the sealant to form a more permanent patch from the inside of the tyre. I had to use one in November 19 and it's still holding air after 1000 k.
Using Milkit Tubeless System for road bikes makes life easier. While injecting sealant into your tire, you won't unseat your tire. Add Stan's Darts and you are good to go.
Hi there! Thanks again for sharing so much information! I gotta a question about Co2 ... do you or don't you recommend it for tubeless tires... if you don't then what's your suggestion?
It's been two years now I'm leaving with tubeless tyres on the road bike. I'm not going back to tubes. Wheels are not aero, so the 28c's are a great option. Two things I've learned living with them:
- leave the bike with the valves at 8 o'clock, this will help not getting sealant into the valves
- why? Cause you need to pump in air way more often then with tubes, so sealant might come out from the valves or worse, does it job in there and seal the valve
- still, my pump (yeah, the pump) eventually got clogged with sealant that would spill out (but I'm pretty sure I've learned the above two points)
is there such a difference between tubeless and light inner tubes?
@@ADCFproductions not really. With latex inner tubes you will be as fast as tubeless.
Great advice mate from a fellow Doncaster lad, helped me make my mind up. Picking up my scott addict rc40 on Tuesday, and was in two minds about it. So getting some pirelli p zero tlr race 28 with the bike.
Get a Milkit and you can pull out the sealant, check it, replenish, and the provided valves save the mess....a life saver!!
I had the same pein to install Mavic TL tyres, it's smoother with other Brands like Pirelli.
thats the best scene in the movie.. maybe bishop needed one of the Dynaplug racer .Ripley could have jabbed him with this cool little plug fixer... and away you go in your starship..brilliant..
Ollie Is been doing great videos , keep it up
You warned about co2 cartridge use, but what’s the best way to pump up on the side of the road? Also, advisable to have a small amount of sealant?
After 4 weeks of experiencing tubeless tyres, I can honestly say, I’m done with tubeless. Having the slime spray all over me, my bike, my riding mates, etc., plugs failing, the difficultly of getting them on-and-off the rims…it was much easier to deal with latex tubes. Tubeless may be great for mountain bikes, but I’m definitely not feeling the tubeless love for road bikes.
Just gone tubeless on a trike from ICE made in the UK. I’m still debating if it is worth significant trouble thus far. The rear wheel is 700X 25. Fronts are 406. Schwalbe seems to be the only game in town for tubeless in 20” size. No problem seating the 700 with an air shot canister. The fronts are impossible to seat without going to a shop. One will absolutely not seat. I filled out a warranty claim with Schwalbe which I’m happy to say resulted in a coupon for a free tire. Good news as they are $81 each. I’m losing air from a puncture which appears to self repair as soap suds show no air loss. It does lose air during a ride. Do I patch from the inside or can it be plugged from the outside without losing my bead? Signed; stumped trike enthusiast.
Another way to tell if the sealant in your tyre needs a top up is to give the wheel a good shake near you ear and if you can’t hear liquid squishing about then it’s a good time to top up!
How often should you check the sealant levels?
Every 3 or 4 months or every 500 or 1000 miles, type of timescale?
Inspired to Tired every 4-6 months
There's hardly a need to check sealant levels. Just shake the wheel and listen for the sealant sloshing around. If there's enough sealant to slosh around, there's enough to seal a hole. Top up as and when you don't hear anymore sloshing.
Oh, and a couple of pro tips; firstly, don't ever mix sealants with one from another brand. Some can react with each other and solidify. Also, CO2 cartridges does freeze up sealant, but that doesn't mean the sealant would thaw out. Basically, freezing the sealant would cause it to start to solidify. The trick to avoid this is just to position your valve at the 12 o'clock position before you hit it with CO2. This would place the sealant at the bottom of the wheel, away from the direct burst of freezing CO2 rushing in through the stem.
@@noahfontaine7832 Thank you very much.
@@Snipeonz Thank you very much for the detailed reply.
I did check my tyres 2 days ago. I had filled them with sealant about 3 months ago.
I removed the front wheel, but couldn't hear the sealant sloshing around.
So I deflated the tyre, removed the valve core and with valve at the 6 o'clock position.
Gently pressed the wheel down, until the sealant started to come out of the valve.
So I assumed I'm OK for another month at least, before I'll check again.
@andrew lam comment of the year. Thanks for the great advice. A question I can’t seem to find the answer to though: when sealant dries out, and you top up the tire with more, are you basically adding more liquid in addition to the dried up mass already in there? Would you eventually, theoretically speaking, creating a big layer of gunk that adds 30 or so mg of weight with every top up? When is it time to crack the thing open and start from scratch?
My experience with tubeless tires has been a total disaster and I'm done with it. Less than two weeks after setting up my Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon UST's fully tubeless (they came with tubes installed) I had a puncture while out on a ride. Sealant absolutely exploded everywhere and no matter what I tried it would not seal. It wasn't even that big of a cut - just a tiny piece of glass, really a small hole that I would have expected to be no problem but no, not a chance. I had to use a rubber tire plug so I could limp home. Once back home it took me about 2 hours to clean all the dried up sealant from inside my brake calipers, front and rear mechs and from ALL OVER my bike. Also my literally brand new (first time wearing it) pricey Rapha jersey was splattered all over with sealant that wouldn't wash out - ruined. So, in conclusion - the tubeless tires are in the bin and I will never go there again. What a monumentally frustrating, messy pain in the arse. Nothing at all wrong with a good old fashioned inner tube - I'm going back and won't bother with Tubeless again.
Perfect timing! Just made the switch to tubeless myself.
Am joining you too bro
Hello from pedants’ corner. An inner tube doesn’t haemorrhage through a split or hole - it herniates. Otherwise, top video.😊
I am putting my bike on the attic during winter and take out my old alu bike. But how do you maintain tubeless tyres during this leave of duty or what do you need to do when you go out in the spring again.
Just going tubeless on my new wheels on my triathlon bike. :)
awesome.
all questions answered i think.
thnx!
LOL I love the Alien reference... Ollie you are the best!!!!!
Thanks. This video was highly informative.
Great video. So basically replacing is pretty easy, when its time to do an annual cleaning, just goto the bike shop :)
Nice work Ollie, simple, unpretentious and genuine as ever mate 👍
Are there other pretentious GCN presenters?
@@brandhark7935 stupid comment
"I don't know how I got this job"
I'm sure riding Si's new Pinarello (that he's not even ridden yet) through the mud - for science! - has nothing to do with it ;)
Nothing like a little time in the shop to think about things, like what he would have done differently.
good info. Thanks for making!
Thanks for the video. It has "sealed" it for me. I'll stick with my latex tubes.
Yeah I made the switch for my back wheel. Smdh nothing but a hassle.
Are latex really better than butyl tubes? Do you need to air up latex every day? Just wondering if I should switch.
@@enriqueDFTL I just swirched to see what the big deal was, and as a weeked warrior, I don't notice a difference. There's a weight savings, sure, but that's about it. Theres no noticeable air loss one over the other. I have such varied temps here, that I'm always having to add air, it seems, so I'm not a good one to ask on that.
Yes it seems quite a faf to me, also you have to remember tubeless tyres are twice the price, I have tubeless rims but I have fitted good quality standard tyres and tubes, technology will improve and prices will fall, but for now I'm ok with what I have
Proves different strokes for different folks... I'm never going back to tubes.
Excellent video with very clear and concise explanation.
The Stans valva core remover is great and much less likely to be lost.
Just what ive been looking for! Good job GCN
Does tubless realy weights less? That sealant liquid inside the tube adds weight.
Being new to all this Ollie, maybe yourself and or subscribers can help me with what would i need (in terms of spares or repairs) on a long solo ride with tubeless tyres?
There is a smart thing called "Milk It" in the Mtb-world...you can check and refill your sealent very effective with it. It should work also with roadie tires i guess...
Great tip Ollie about the tool in the multitool :)
When simply adding sealant through the valve stem how does one know how much to add? I've used a self adhering tube patch on the inside of tires with success when the hole was too large for a plug.
Question: if I have a aluminum frame with a carbon seat post do I need fibergrip? Won’t some greases corrode carbon? Does the same go for handlebars and stem?
Any sugestions on what to do when the sealant doesn't seal on the road? Is it possible to fit an innertube with only a small pump?
Depends on your setup, mine is Aksyum and gp5000, and it would be impossible to do on the road due to very tight fitting, I need 3 levers and soap
I’m not familiar with tubeless tires, being a senior and having never use them. My question is what kind of rims do you have to buy to use tubeless tires, how do you keep the air and sealant from leaking out around the spoke nipples or is there some kind of magic rim tape?
How do you remove the residue from the tyre and carbon rims after topping up sealant? Sponging gets the worst off but finger marks remain?
Can we see Ollie fit some new Conti GP5000 TL to his new Mavic wheels? Just want to see if I really do have cyclists arms :)
Or use a pre-measured sealant bottle. Already packed with sealant. No guessing. With it’s conical/needle nose tip, makes for easy valve insertion. Then dispense into the tire carefully until empty and wulah! No fuss, no muss.
Hey Ollie, I have a question about sealant in a cold garage. In Colorado it can get very cold in the winter in the garage. What will that do to the sealant?
What do you guys carry on a right for when you get a flat tire, a tubeless plugger kit or just a normal spare inner tube?
Have just ordered the sealant and tools. Can't wait to get my hands dirty.
Enjoy it Stephen
I found that taking the valve core out (and removing the syringe tube thingy) when the valve is at the bottom results in sealant bubbling out of the valve stem and making a mess. Doing it when the valve is at the top of the wheel might get one or two drops, but far less messy
which is why I position the valve at the side
Thank you very much GCN am turning my road bike into a tubelesss. Am excited to ride for more miles.....
So gratefullll....punctures limited me great but no more no more
Long live the art of cycling
"Full-filling," please... I finally converted to tubeless like all of the other cool kids for all of their purported benefits, especially puncture resistance. I got a flat the first time out. I as very deflated.
Same happened to me. It took ten minutes to seal. Had me worried for all those ten minutes
Is it advisable to mix different brands of sealant, say when topping up?
No, sealants have different sealing methods from each other
Great video GCN, keep up the good work!
I have a wheelset with with Mavic UST and Mavic tires. When I bought them last year they put Mavic sealant in them. I also have a set of gravel wheels and Maxxis Rambler tires with Stan's no tubes sealant in them. It has been one year, done a couple of rides and races, luckily no punctures, but it's long overdue to change the sealant in both sets of wheels. I bought two 140 ml packs of Muc-off No tubes sealant. I read some online reviews and they clearly come out the winner most times.
Questions...Do I have to remove the rim tape? How clean do the tires and wheels actually have to get? Can I mix the sealants? Is it a big problem if you do? I am not looking forward to this job. The sealant is extremely expensive here. The best I could find it for was 15 dollars Canadian per 140 ml pack!
I got a gravel adventure race in April. Gotta get this done.
Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks Ollie.
Damian Calderari Hopefully you’ve scrolled through and read the other comments. Do NOT mix sealant; they can clog together. You could try contacting the Muc-Off folks and ask if they’ve done any testing by mixing their product on top of other brands to cover all bases but I think they’ll say “no”. The old stuff should clean completely with plain warm water or mild soapy water and a sponge and you should not have to remove rim tape, if present (some wheels don’t need tape). With regards to costs, it’s less expensive than a pile of tubes or having tubulars glued up! Hope that helps.
Great video and loads of information 👍🏻 Thanks a lot!!
But how can I fix a flat on the road if I’m using tubeless tires?
The tire boots mention it is only for emergencies and should be replaced afterwards. Is it safe to continue riding with these
Do you need to empty out or clean the old sealant before adding new? or do you just add 25ml every month or so? how frequent do you have to be riding to even calculate these?
my one wheelset (MTB wheels)...sealant is going on 2 years. and hold PSI +/- 1 even after a few months.
3:35 how can sealant escape if you keep the wheel in a way that the valve is on the upper side? Sealant is liquid and will flow to the bottom half of you tire.
Indeed, since gravity will have the liquid accumulate at the bottom, if the core is taken out when the valve is in the lower part, the liquid will escape through the valve ... It has been my experience
I usually put the bike on the stand, position valves at 10 or 2 then let it sit for a few minutes before I let air and remove the core. I fill from this position too with the hose pointing to the bottom
I wish I view this video beforehand. Had heaps of trouble with tubeless tyres. I was away for six months and the tyre completely deflated and the tyre warped. Do I use the soapy water method to unwarp it?
I would suggest a winter annual, deflate, clean everything, fill new fluid , re-inflate and you're good to go... Why wait for things to happen when you are far from anywhere?
#askgcntech
How do you know you need to add sealant? Or when to replace and clean old sealant?
Remove valve core, put valve at 6 oclock position then use a thin cocktail stick as a dip stick to check the level.