Water Heater installation with 2 Code Violations ( no permit )
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2022
- This is yet another simple water heater installation that was done without a permit or inspections. As you can see, there are at least two plumbing code violations. Comment below what those violations are, bonus if you provide the IPC code sections.
#plumbingcode #plumbing #waterheater #thebuildingcodeforum #TBCF
 
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Is the expansion tank installed correctly?
No! It is installed upside down and since the installer didn’t hand-write the pressure on the side of the tank, I am sure the tank wasn’t charged to the same pressure as the system. They come pre-charged at 40psi-50psi and must be adjusted//charged to the same pressure as the system.
Most expansion tanks you can install upside down
@@AaronCunningham No, you can’t.
@@AaronCunninghamdepends on the code in your area.
@@brucestorey917100% yes you can
A leaking water heater should be a one-time issue. Replace the broken water heater. You shouldn’t have frequent water heater leaks. The PRV discharge being so high is an issue. I’ve also seen many water heaters without pans, but know that if there is a leak, you’ll have a mess. But that leak should also be the water heater replacement.
T&P discharge line must be treated as a potable water supply system outlet per the IPC and IRC, therefore requires an air cap to prevent siphoning, but the discharge line must be no higher than 6 inches off the floor and run to a safe place of disposal. It should be obvious, but in case it's not, here's why this is such a hot button topic. A T&P valve is designed to discharge at 150psi or 210°F, so if the discharge pipe is missing or terminated too high off the floor and a defective thermostat causes runaway heating, a large amount of near boiling water will be released at high pressure causing disfiguring scalds or death to anyone nearby.
Also, if the breaker panel is not visible from the appliance and within 50 feet there needs to be disconnect switch nearby.
Missing straps securing the unit to framing members if in an earthquake zone
For gas and oil fired water heaters in a garage the unit should be elevated no less than 18 inches off the floor, to reduce the risk of gasoline vapor ignition.
The water heater should be located where not subject to damage from vehicles.
Years ago I never saw an expansion tanks on hot water heaters. Heating systems yes. And they never had pans under them. I sure would not use plastic pipe.
Undersized pan installed? Drain looks like it is touching the pan on the tank and if a flood sensor was in the pan those seemed to be 3" squares sitting flat on the floor of the pan
Disconnect if you can’t see ele panel box
Lock out at the breaker
The over temp/press discharge tube should be about 4 inches from the ground, I am not sure about the CPVC material and the temp rating, I used copper in mine, but you must have a cold water shut off valve to isolate the heater just above it, I don't see one.
Simply replace the thermostats, There's obviously an overheating issue. If Water heater is more than 14 years old replace the water heater, The Pan must be piped to the first floor level. It's missing earthquake straps. The T&P must be piped to the Pan With an air gap.
Violations aside, I would definitely not use CPVC. Especially when pex is so cheap and available. I don't love CPVC on the discharge line either. Some areas require metal pipe on the TPR discharge line.
Requirements depend upon AHJ.
California specifically prohibits relief valve from draining into drip pan.
Also required= permit(gubment wants their money), seismic bracing at upper and lower thirds of tank, insulation on first 5' of piping(hot and cold), expansion tank must be braced to structure.
For those poo pooing the permit, if one had been pulled, this installation would not look this bad.
having the pa pointed that whys worse then not having one at all and the pipe wouldn't even hit pan at all id run it down 90 it out to concreate floor for leave it like that probably still not meat code but better it is now
All water heaters, electric or gas must have 18” of steel at the hot and cold connection. Most inspectors will let you get away with plastic on electric WH. Pressure relief discharge pipe must be steel and have no more than 2 maybe 3 ( can’t remember) 90 degree elbows and terminate 6” above the floor. It’s not code in my area for earthquake supports or expansion tanks, but there are situations where I would recommend them.
In my area they are ALL required to have a stand under them.
I know it’s code, but purpose? I’m assuming it’s to have fall for drainage if it started leaking.
@@user-ln7of9gs4sIn garage so above gas fume level.
Only for gas water heaters located in a garage…
So that it eliminates or decreases the chance for gasoline vapors to be ignited, in the instance that a car in the garage has a leak in its fuel system. Assuming that gasoline vapors are heavier than air, etc
Max 6" and no less than 1" above flood rim.
in my state we are required to have a vacuum breaker on cold side inlet
As a homeowner who does her own work where she may, what’s the second violation? Replies in this discussion claim the T&P discharge line end anywhere from 4” to 18” above the floor. What’s correct?
As for other alleged errors in the installation, folks should cite code. Simply saying “in this area” isn’t enough - I see many remarkable comments here regarding mounting, materials used, and the disconnect placement.
CPVC gets very brittle with age. Any attempt to mess with it will cause a crack. In earthquake areas, I'd never, ever use cpvc. I've been there, done that.
The pop off valve tube is supposed to be copper not plastic it is supposed to be no more than 6” or so from the floor and on a electric tank a disconnect is supposed to be installed at least a foot from the unit
The outlet of the discharge pipe shall terminate within 6 inches over the floor or receptor, but not less than a distance equal to twice the diameter of the outlet pipe.
I prefer the relief tube to not be in Pan. The code states that it has to go to the pan, the floor or drain. It doesn't say it has to go to the Pan Just because there is a pan. it just has to be within six inches of the floor pan or receptor.
i can provide the upc section 503.2 FinalWaterHeaterInspection, its missing the permit placard, because no permit exists.
I am not sure if this is a plumbing code violation. But I've always been told electric water heater, plastic drain pan, gas water heater, metal drain pan.
No escutcheon on either line.
No electrical disconnect? Electrical panel located in the garage within sight?
Good catch. Yes panelboard in garage within site.
min on the T&P is 3'' and I don't like cpvc I think it's to brittle you can snap that pipe to easy.....seeing no primer on the pipe either
Pipe should be 6" from floor no less than twice the diameter of the pipe / no mixing valve no electrical disconnect
If that tnp starts dumping it dont really matter if its 2” to 6” from the floor or in the pan. Theres gonna be water and steam like crazy. The main concern in my opinion is the metal pan on an electric water heater and the plastic piping straight off the heater itself. That tnp could even sieze shut in the future.
Just looking at that CPVC I think it's going to break.
It actually looks kinda brittle.
the T&P should terminate 4" above floor if I remember correctly, I'v been retired for awhile.
T&p and pan drain also needs a flood stop
Not by code any other than, possibly, a local code.
Is there any fire codes regarding storing items around?
That would be manufacturer specific and this is not a fuel burning appliance and it is not in a plenum space.
They forgot to put a pair of vice-grips on the T&P relief valve to stop intermittent water discharge…. Seriously though, are we gonna talk about the messy glue job.
I believe the drip tube should be 8" to 12" from the floor. also shouldn't the cpvc terminate 18" away from the heater
6 inches for the relief valve!!!
What state is this where you need a "permit" to replace a water heater in your own property? Let me guess... NY or IL... I see no straps, that's all, other than the dumb discharge routing.
Florida
@@thebuildingcodeforumWell that explains the "Three Stooges" install.
Looks FINE! 🤣
Code states Tmp can be terminated 6" above floor in garage or dog house , in attic or closet tmp must me ran outside of homes foundation
And you can't free stand expansion tanks they have to be strapped and in my area have to have earthquake straps
😱the code police! Concerned with shit like this and not the double cheeseburger and fries you had for lunch.
😂😂😂
Where does it vent too?
What vent?
I get it, I've always had gas.
Cpvc and T&P
There isn’t Earthquake bracing, pressure line too short could plumb it to garage floor. ❤
Earthquake strapping is only required in earthquake-prone areas.
@@brucestorey917 yep.
The whole install is a cluster fuck.
Remember kiddies: To code is ONLY the minimum needed.
T&p not 6 inches from ground no drain line out can cause secondary damage also needs aflood stop
The pan is too small, the relief valve drain is too high, no strap on expansion tank… also you have to hard pipe the top of a water heater to 16 inches…that is just VA oh and also the tpr drain should terminate into the pan no les than 6inches
It has no straps
That pipe is not allowed on the water heaters they have to be copper that close to water heater first 18 inches
CPVC is rated for hot water use, pVC is not acceptable for plumbing inside a home
Needs to be raised 18 inches off of floor. Needs flex lines installed. Needs a Vacuum relief valve on a cross. Needs T&P discharged to an outside wall. Needs 1 inch minimum clearance in pan around water heater. Needs either a plug or disconnect depending on city.
where in the code does an ELECTRIC water heater have to be 18in off the ground? that code states the water heater IGNITION source has to be 18in off the ground in the NFGC... sheesh
@@beardedbarnstormer9577 You telling me gas fumes can’t ignite off of a lower Heating element on an electric water heater? I’ll have to go back and look at the code but in my area if there is no door or closet ..gas and electric must be raised and cannot sit on the floor in a garage
@@user-lr5bo3ip8i I'm telling you that yes. An electric water heater element is submerged in water and not exposed. It's also not considered an ignition source as it is not an open flame or spark.
IPC and UPC allow electric water heater install on floor in garage. I'm in Phoenix but LA allowed it as well
@@beardedbarnstormer9577 Thankyou I stand corrected, I also just looked at code and I’m not sure why my municipality requires that.
@@user-lr5bo3ip8i municipalities get weird. A lot of them outside of major cities don't update their rules enough. Also when I was in the frozen north they focused a lot more on gas and had very little electric most stuff was applied to both.
Pressure discharge to high, 6 inches into a drain or outside. Expansion tNk should be on hot side
Expansion tank should be on the cold side.
As the saying goes, common sense is t very common….
what if a contactor violated the code when they put it in?
Then they would get a notice of violation from the municipality
then what happens? do they have to redo it on their dime? thanks @@thebuildingcodeforum
using that type of pvc on the hot side is concerning
CPVC is rated for hot water use, And all plumbing inside of a home.
Very sloppy work.. They should be ashamed of Themselves.. No pride whatsoever.😢
Hard pass on cpvc
Pan size too small, no drip pan drain, t &p line too high off floor, no electrical disconnect. Not sure if expansion tank can be installed being soley supported by pipe or it needs to be strapped on the wall. Not to mention the cpvc ball valve will crack to the next person that shuts it off, should be transitioned to a brass threaded ball valve and i always cut up to the wall and replace everything in sight with copper. Fuck cpvc
cpvc is trash 5 to 10 years its rotted and will brake supper easy
Good catch. An electrical disconnect is only required if the breaker panel is not within sight of the water heater, and by that means visible from the appliance AND no farther than 50 feet away. Cord and plug connection technically is not acceptable, but some years ago it was not uncommon to see a 3 wire dryer cord or a length of NM or flexible cord with a NEMA 10-30 or 6-30 plug cap wired on and plugged into a receptacle, to serve as a disconnect means.
Everything is wrong!
All work must meet or exceed federal minimum standards.
"Improper installation "
U.P.C.- 310.0 workmanship
I am a plumbing inspector for the insurance companies who hire me to save them money, that's all I need to say.
I can find 10 code violations in 95% of buildings I look at. 😮
Expansion tank should be on the discharge line
NO! Always on the water 💦 inlet side.
Understand why the expansion tank should be installed on the cold side. To compensate for pressure fluctuations within a closed system, e.g., home has PRV (pressure reducing valve).
It must be on the cold side.
expansion always goes on cold side....
This is leaking it should be replaced that's rule of thumb if the tank is leaking
😂😂😂😂😂cowboys