Should You Buy the Supertak Buildplate?
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
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You are able to find the Supertak Buildplate here (affiliate):
shareasale.com...
All the rest of my links: linktr.ee/engi...
#3dprinter #3dprinting #bambu #bambulab #benchy #fast #lab #p1s #mods #bambulabmods #modifications #petg #pla
You can turn off build plate detection within the x1's settings. This is what I've done since I use all aftermarket plates. Saves a second at print start too.
Also, Ali Express or eBay have these in stock - they show up as PEZ build plates, and about $15 cheaper.
1 just ran supertack past 100 hours of pla prints and I am impressed. I'm trying to see how long I can print before cleaning. Never initially cleaned it either and so far no bed adhesion issues
For those UNO cards, I'd try Inland White PLA Pro, it is without a doubt one of if not the most opaque white PLA on the planet, matte surface as well, I use it for card and other pieces like this where complete opacity matters
Bambu Lab tells everyone to turn off build plate sensing on the X1C to fix this temporarily on the sales page for the SuperTack, but no one reads it. That said, I at first 3D printed the QR (Aruco) code and double-sided taped it to the bed (note: it's the same QR as the old COOL PLATE) but then I saw someone posted a model to print on a p-touch label printer, and I have a little generic label printer that only cost $9 on amazon I use to label cables, and printed it on there, and now it's waterproof and works with detection perfectly. What happened is the factory that made the plates used too-light of a contrasting color for the code so it can't read it, BBL is working on a way to tweak the camera in the X1C's lidar to be able to read it but this is a good stopgap.
Yes sold out *sigh* lol. Wish you the best. Instant fan, just subscribed. I do have a question. I how hard is it to peel off 8x8 inches block like. I design terrain for tabletop printing. The largest tiles I make are 8x8. Sometimes even after using mouse ears for the corner they lift a little bit. My concern is having that large surface flat on the print bed do you need to go in there with a knife to peel it off? I have been using on my X1C the cool plate and damaged the glue on surface. I’m more careful now. I have been trying to order 3 of those new plates but…none in stock. I have no problem with the PEI on my A1. I would rather have the same finish in the bottom. I got an extra PEI plate, but every now and then…the corners lift despite the mouse ears in the X1C despite using the same plate as the A1. I still haven’t figured that one out yet lol. If you check my channel latest content to have an idea of what I am working on at this moment. The thinner tiles, no issues, it’s the thick ones that do.
Yeah, I've had the same issue regarding the QR code. I don't know why they didn't use white like the other build plates.
0:40 made me cringe... Touching the build plate gives me nightmares
I’ve really liked these build plates so far! I wanna know if I can print on it with ABS?
It’s not recommended, I haven’t tried it yet so I’m not too sure how it would work
@ Ah, got it. I print things with runners, and I don’t have to waste the filament on runners anymore with these plates when printing the PLA parts, so I was wondering if I could cut down on how much I use on the ABS parts. But I’m too nervous to give it a go before hearing how others fared. 😅
ngl i've never had a problem with textured pei sheets. Sometimes they are TOO strong even with petg. Last week I spent an hour chipping bits of abs off a textured pei sheet because I messed up and used that sheet straight after washing it. I legitimately rub my fingers on the build plate to add oils when printing abs on the rare occasion I do. I just use cheap aliexpress sheets tbh
Nice
Sick
I have had exactly the same problem and I ended up turning the build plate detector off, I tried to raise a ticket with Bambu lab but they want the gcodes log and I have no idea how to find it ☹️
Can we please have a link too the mini Uno card set?
Is better but, not perfect. On my case, on my A1 mini, i needed to print about 10cm tall screws. With a diameter of 2cm in the base and 1cm from after 2cm of height. 4 screws positioned in the middle. PLA+, 45 bed, 230c in the nozzle of 0.4mm. Turned off the skirts, just the model, no support, no nothing. Speed, 90 for inner and 150 for outer wall. And it failed, around 80% just separated from the base. I repeat the process with skirt (hard to remove, probably with normal PEI was enough but just in case use the SuperTac), this time 90 for inner 100 for outer speed. And of course I didnt have any issues. So my point is, even with this plate, is hard to print at full speed, with no skirts, tall and thin structures. I will try again with skirts and max speed, even that is a win. I got a lot failures in max speed and skirts with PEI, always need to decrease the speed with it.
It's more than that the X1C can't see the build plate ID code, it's that you HAVE to disable the check in the slicer before you send the print. If you just click ignore when it says it can't find the code, there's a bug that screws up the Z height and the extrusion doesn't even touch the plate.
How Bambu could have borked the launch over this most hyped plate is beyond me. They built their reputation on the printers just working reliably out of the box. It's also disappointing to me that none of the YT reviewers who got free plates to test mentioned this. As you point out, this plate is ONLY for PLA and PETG, so I'm not willing to disable plate detection and accidentally print ABS on it. Until they fix this, the super tack plate is a paperweight.
Where do you disable detection in the slicer? I'm having this issue that you described.
@@EricEiklor But IMHO, it's not worth the risk for the supposed benefit of the super tack plate. I'm waiting until they fix this, but they seem to be focussing on shutting out third parties in the name of "security" instead of fixing their own product first. 🤨
@@MrGadgetgav yeah your right. I did figure out how to adjust the gcode in Bambu Studio to set the z height per plate. So I did lower it for the cool plate, have yet to test. For some reason my gcode had all the various plate's z-heights set to the same as a standard PEI's height of -.04.
I have used this product and Big mistake when you print petg at 45 temperature because it will warp when you separate it😂
What if you heat up the supertak plate after the print to release it?
You barely save any money thru not having to heat the bed as much
12 hour print -
At 45°C:
0.05 kW×12 hours=0.6 kWh0.05kW×12hours=0.6kWh.
Cost: 0.6 kWh×£.0.35 /kWh=£.0.21 0.6kWh×£.0.35/kWh=£0.21
At 70°C:
0.1 kW×12 hours=£.1.2 kWh 0.1kW×12hours=1.2kWh.
Cost: 1.2 kWh×£.0.35 /kWh=£.0.42 1.2kWh×£.0.35/kWh=£0.42
Over my x1c life i've printed just about 2500 hours which would have saved me £44. So it would pay for itself at some point.. Getting a cheaper thirdparty alternative it'd easily pay for itself and give some gains at least
The grey ones are not so good I have one & a biqu blue one the grey ones leave residue on them they're too sticky
Sorry, but the "money savings" I keep see being touted everywhere is hugely false, how much did the plate cost, and then offset that plate cost to how much it costs to print with a fully heated bed. There are no money savings. By the time the plate has worn out, you wont even be close to a return on investment. Its cheaper to print with a heated bed than purchasing a plate like this. Bambu even states it's a consumable.
Its only 14.99 rn and luckily not some huge investment 😆 , depending on what a solved inconvenience is worth to you, this pays its way on the very first use. No more glue sticks no more adhesion anxiety, it is set and forget in its most litteral form. It also lets your models have more freedom of design now that you have removed build plate surface area/Adhesion issues from holding your designs back. All in all a solid tool and great insurance to have in the arsenal for those tricky high investment prints
this sounds a lot like the smooth PEI plate except it sucks
PEI sucks due to texture finish.