The Science behind the number of turns: "The number of turns indicates how much wire is wrapped inside the motor. A higher turn number means more wire and thus more resistance, resulting in a slower motor. So turns with a lower number means a faster motor. The turn rating is inversely proportional to the power generated by the motor." So less turns is faster, but less powerful. More turns is slower with more power.
You mentioned that the number of turns is inversely proportional to the power of the motor, thats right but fewer turns actually results in higher power. Specifically the power is proportional to (1/N)^2, the max velocity proportional to (1/N) and the max torque proportional to (1/N), where N is number of turns
I have metal treal axles should and pretty much treal everything cosmetic should I go with the red motor or the purple motor I have stock transmission gears and portals
How does it compare to the stock motor. I bought 2 one for my 5 year old son and me. He likes jumping it so im looking to get him the speed motor. I kinda like crawling so im thinking of getting the purple motor. Great video. Just subbed
I have two brushed vehicles. Simply put one is the red and one is the purple. The red has a much better crawl and torque. The purple is faster and doesn't really have a slow crawl even with the furitek bec. I've been told the mofo torque beast is an option also. Cheers
A lot of people don't realize that magnet strength plays a big roll on an electric motor. If you have a rotor/ armature with say 50 turns of magnet wire, vs a 60 turn, using the same magnets, then sure the 50 turn will have more RPM'S under zero to small loads, but once under a load, the Rpm's will slow down or stop quicker than the 60 turn. But if you add stronger magnets to the 50 turn, it will likely out perform the 60 turn in torque, and Rpm's. Generally they will run a little hotter to a smoke show depending on how far you go. So there is a fine line when reducing the turns, especially on a crawler motor. Hand wound rotors are the way to go in my opinion, and from my own experience. These stock motors are not created equally, they definitely vary sometimes a quite a bit. None of my rc's stock performed the same. One was always a little faster than the other, but the slower one had a slight advantage slow crawling. These aftermarket motors seem more consistent than the cheap stock motors, which one would expect, and I'm sure most have realized that. If you have a water tank with a 2" outlet pipe, gravity fed, you will only get so many GPM, but if you add 10 lbs of pressure to the tank, you will fill your bucket up quicker. The pressure would represent voltage, and the pipe size would be your current / flow /amps. You can fill the bucket up quicker by upping the pressure, or by adding a bigger pipe / current / amps, but having a smaller pipe with more pressure / voltage causes more resistance, and resistance causes more heat, especially when it comes to electricity. Upping the guage of magnet wire would help with that from my experience. An electric motor will generally run hotter if you up the voltage /, or current / flow. Less turns equal less resistance, which allows more flow as long as the battery has it to give. I could say a lot more, but there's my 2 cents! If this post helps just one person, then it was worth posting.
Thank You so much for the shout-out Brother. You are Awesome!!!
Do you have a Fcx24?
@@farmboyrc not yet
The Science behind the number of turns: "The number of turns indicates how much wire is wrapped inside the motor. A higher turn number means more wire and thus more resistance, resulting in a slower motor. So turns with a lower number means a faster motor. The turn rating is inversely proportional to the power generated by the motor." So less turns is faster, but less powerful. More turns is slower with more power.
Then why is the purple described as more torque by manufacturer ?
You mentioned that the number of turns is inversely proportional to the power of the motor, thats right but fewer turns actually results in higher power. Specifically the power is proportional to (1/N)^2, the max velocity proportional to (1/N) and the max torque proportional to (1/N), where N is number of turns
I have metal treal axles should and pretty much treal everything cosmetic should I go with the red motor or the purple motor I have stock transmission gears and portals
Those are Awesome looking small motors. I'm going to get me some of those for sure Brother.
Cool video, thanks for the info. The Power Wagon is one of my favorite bodies. And I don't mind that it's a bit top heavy either.
Same here! I love the power wagon body! Gives you plenty of room for giant tires and a ton of flex!
Will these motors work on the fms fcx18? I think they have the 180 motor?
Great video brother! And I subscribed!
How does it compare to the stock motor. I bought 2 one for my 5 year old son and me. He likes jumping it so im looking to get him the speed motor. I kinda like crawling so im thinking of getting the purple motor. Great video. Just subbed
I have two brushed vehicles. Simply put one is the red and one is the purple. The red has a much better crawl and torque. The purple is faster and doesn't really have a slow crawl even with the furitek bec. I've been told the mofo torque beast is an option also. Cheers
I would get the purple motor instead it has a lot more torque and it’s still crazy fast!
Great video.
How was the sound? Were the purple and red motors just as noisy as the stock one?
Not quite, they are quieter
The red motor should have more torque than the purple. More turns equals more torque and less speed
A lot of people don't realize that magnet strength plays a big roll on an electric motor. If you have a rotor/ armature with say 50 turns of magnet wire, vs a 60 turn, using the same magnets, then sure the 50 turn will have more RPM'S under zero to small loads, but once under a load, the Rpm's will slow down or stop quicker than the 60 turn. But if you add stronger magnets to the 50 turn, it will likely out perform the 60 turn in torque, and Rpm's. Generally they will run a little hotter to a smoke show depending on how far you go. So there is a fine line when reducing the turns, especially on a crawler motor. Hand wound rotors are the way to go in my opinion, and from my own experience. These stock motors are not created equally, they definitely vary sometimes a quite a bit. None of my rc's stock performed the same. One was always a little faster than the other, but the slower one had a slight advantage slow crawling. These aftermarket motors seem more consistent than the cheap stock motors, which one would expect, and I'm sure most have realized that. If you have a water tank with a 2" outlet pipe, gravity fed, you will only get so many GPM, but if you add 10 lbs of pressure to the tank, you will fill your bucket up quicker. The pressure would represent voltage, and the pipe size would be your current / flow /amps. You can fill the bucket up quicker by upping the pressure, or by adding a bigger pipe / current / amps, but having a smaller pipe with more pressure / voltage causes more resistance, and resistance causes more heat, especially when it comes to electricity. Upping the guage of magnet wire would help with that from my experience. An electric motor will generally run hotter if you up the voltage /, or current / flow. Less turns equal less resistance, which allows more flow as long as the battery has it to give. I could say a lot more, but there's my 2 cents! If this post helps just one person, then it was worth posting.
How did you install it? Did you have to change the pinion?
No, it’s a direct fit. Take the stock motor out put the new motor in