Nice tutorial bud. I knew as soon as I saw the 10wt oil you didn't need to open the holes. Lol. It's a good video because this is exactly the kind of experience that 90% of people will have. Hopefully, they watch your video first 💪👍
Can never go wrong with Yokomo “blue” or Rêve D “red” o-rings. I have the Rêve D ones in my custom set of shocks and if you’re also using Rêve D shafts, they’re BUTTER! Also, try them with the “normal” pistons first before switching to the tapered piston so you’ll get a better feel as to whether you really need them or not.
Great upload Troy I found that if You DON'T drill the pistons out and use 5W (Yokomo 50) Oil they feel just right for The Yokomo MD 1.0 with Big Bores and MST Gold Front Springs and Yokomo Reds for the Rear springs it has the same bounce as the RDX stock Plastic Shocks (best plastic shocks I've used) but has less oscillation as You mentioned at the end of the stroke / Weight of Chassis with Battery and Body is 1390 g With ESC , Gyro , Servo , Receiver , Fans X2 and no extra weights , I also add a used Yokomo Blue O ring as a bump stop on the bottom of the piston.
Update as regards the Yokomo shock tuning , I drilled out the Yokomo pistons to 1.4 mm added 5 weight Yokomo Oil , and ReveD RDX standard 580 front and rear springs , The results are amazing , Give this a try and see if You like @@RoadsideRC
Thanks a lot for another comprehensive video! Do you have any updates or recommendations after a year? I’m currently experiencing a leak issue with the stock shocks that come with the MST RMX 2.5 S+ kit. I’ve ordered 40wt Axon silicone oil, Reve-D O-rings, and O-ring grease, hoping this will provide some improvement. However, I know I’ll need to upgrade the shocks at some point. Do you have any suggestions for reliable shock upgrades that have worked well for you? Thanks again!
These Yokomo big-bore shocks are a go-to for the drift community for a reason. They just work well. I 100% support swapping to these at some point. Truth is though: unless your old shocks are just plain worn out - I don't think there is really that much to be gained. Finding the right spring rate and oil combo is 1000x more impactful than a core shock body upgrade.
Thanks for the suggestion! I have researched this multiple times for various chassis. Always seems to be a waste of time and $$$ compared to getting a proper RWD drift chassis. Althought...I do have a Team Associated Apex 2 chassis now sitting there...
@@RoadsideRC couldn't you try using the cheapest electronics or using the stuff you already have? i saw lots of tamiya tt02 being converted and it works amazing
@user-rh6dq9ef5n The electronics cost is the same between all of the options. It just doesn't make sense to buy a $200 Tamiya kit + $100+ conversion kit...when for that same money I could get a chassis that performs MUCH better straight out of the box. I see these Tamiya conversions. They "work", but they certainly aren't top performers.
How can i lower to ride height ? Currently have 8mm back and 13mm front I like how the front big bore shocks behavior But my rear is too stiff any suggestion ?
@RoadsideRC right on. I have a set of big bores im building. Im gonna rock my stock springs to start with also. Was just curious if you had made any changes since then. Thanks!
I wonder if thiker oil is affected more by temperature change, where as thinner will have a more consistent feel over different ambient temps. Great information as always Thank you.
I have those same big bore shocks in my YD-2. I drilled those four holes bigger just like you, 1,5 mm. But I used 20 weight silicone oil. My opinion is that with 20 weight oil shocks act more stable. But as always, only my opinion.
I have the Yeah Racing BRUTUS in my MST RMX and really like them once I got them set right. My RDX has stock, but i'm using a heavier body and think something like these will be a nice upgrade. Plus they look nice installed, which is a bonus. :D
Honestly, I like the QUTUS but Yeah Racing’s bladders and shock shafts suck. The thing I hate most about the QUTUS is that the dual layer piston design traps A LOT of hidden air bubbles so you pretty much need to have a vacuum bleeder to get them consistent. Going back to the seals, they’re too big for the shocks and I find that the shock caps foul on the bodies to where as you’re fighting the seal to fit onto the shock, you’re letting air back in. I’m going to try some Yokomo “black” bladders which are made for the Big Bores in this video but yeah, not a fan of the QUTUS bladders.
Those Yokomo shocks should have come with the 5.8mm top ball mount & 4.3mm lower ball stud mounts also, so you don't need to transfer the plastic bushings from the pogo stick shocks. If you purchased Yokomo Y2-OP1A, you would have gotten those shocks, with the mounting hardware, front and rear springs from the ZX , the cream o-rings with 0.5mm adjustment spacer and front upper and lower AL arms, which take a lot play out of the upper arms and gives more adjustment, but does cost more than shocks alone, but those parts bundled together in the option kit is less than buying them separately. I also only go 1.2-1.4mm on the holes, as 1.5mm with 10Wt/100Cst is gonna be bouncy with long stock springs. The stock pistons should have been 1.1mm stock AFAIK. As a FYI, the SD 2.0 is 1.4mm x 4 hole pistons with 50Cst oil and shorter stiffer progressive springs to offset excessive bounciness compared to longer springs with light oil.
they dont come with the lower 4.3mm ball stud, that comes with the kit (or car), these can be used like he has here on the yd-2z brushed ready to run that comes with the plastic non filled shocks, they mount awkward and ugly and theres nothing you can do short of sourcing the hardware yourself to change it. and its the whole reason i wish i had bought anything else lmfao.
@@codyskyrimvolen the shock kit comes with the top 5.8mm ball, but not the bottom 4.3mm screw ball studs from what I see, but the Y2-OP1A kit comes with the mounting hardware for shocks and the front arm upgrades, which I mentioned was better for the price, but they seem out of stock from Amain now.
Can you review the Radio link Rc6gs v3 for something like the Redcat Rds? I cant find anyone actually Reviewing it for drifting only reviews for crawlers and bashers.
I have helped tune another person's car that was using it. It "worked", but left a lot to be desired. He eventually upgraded. I would not suggest going that route unless you had no other choice.
@@RoadsideRCI use it on my no prep car but it’s the V2 can tune a lot more then you think of you just gotta know what settings to go to or the menu you need and go from there
@@RoadsideRC because there's a lot of people buying those and have terrible luck with them sticking not having travel being too stiff. And not just new people I'm talking about people that have been drifting for years. There's just something about them. Maybe it's a quality control thing
@@RoadsideRC and yes I know people that swear by them have no issues. And I haven't watched your full video so I don't know if you've did something that I haven't done but I will. From the blue o-rings cream o rings clear o-rings to 45° angle when you're putting the bladder on some people say drill a hole on top of the cap to equalize the pressure. Using a shock stand making sure all the air is out I've done it all. Lol
That was one of the best; easiest to understand shock tutorials that I've seen. TY.
Glad to help!
Thank you for the kind words.
Nice tutorial bud. I knew as soon as I saw the 10wt oil you didn't need to open the holes. Lol. It's a good video because this is exactly the kind of experience that 90% of people will have. Hopefully, they watch your video first 💪👍
Yes! I was nervous as well. Thought I had thicker fluid.
Can never go wrong with Yokomo “blue” or Rêve D “red” o-rings. I have the Rêve D ones in my custom set of shocks and if you’re also using Rêve D shafts, they’re BUTTER!
Also, try them with the “normal” pistons first before switching to the tapered piston so you’ll get a better feel as to whether you really need them or not.
Great tips!!!
another useful upgrade my friend
*😎always a full view💯Au🦘thumbs up👍enjoy the weekend🔆*
Thanks Billy!
I have 3 set of the big bore yokomos. 2 in stand by. all with the 1.2mm 6 hole tapered piston. the best
Yes! I probably should have upgraded the piston while I was at it.
Just got some in yesterday and immediately thought, " I know for a fact Troy made a video on these" 😂
Awesome! Hope your build was smooth.
Great video for know- how,looks like you got it!!
Thanks Thomas!
Great upload Troy I found that if You DON'T drill the pistons out and use 5W (Yokomo 50) Oil they feel just right for The Yokomo MD 1.0 with Big Bores and MST Gold Front Springs and Yokomo Reds for the Rear springs it has the same bounce as the RDX stock Plastic Shocks (best plastic shocks I've used) but has less oscillation as You mentioned at the end of the stroke / Weight of Chassis with Battery and Body is 1390 g With ESC , Gyro , Servo , Receiver , Fans X2 and no extra weights , I also add a used Yokomo Blue O ring as a bump stop on the bottom of the piston.
Thanks for the feedback!
Adding a ring as a bump-stop is an interesting idea! I have only ever done that in bashers.
Update as regards the Yokomo shock tuning , I drilled out the Yokomo pistons to 1.4 mm added 5 weight Yokomo Oil , and ReveD RDX standard 580 front and rear springs , The results are amazing , Give this a try and see if You like @@RoadsideRC
@grski900000000000000 Thanks for getting back with me!
Yokomo chassis is back in action 😏
Maybe can add in the different between a normal size shock and a big bores size shock 👍🏻
Thanks for the idea Billy!
Thanks a lot for another comprehensive video! Do you have any updates or recommendations after a year?
I’m currently experiencing a leak issue with the stock shocks that come with the MST RMX 2.5 S+ kit. I’ve ordered 40wt Axon silicone oil, Reve-D O-rings, and O-ring grease, hoping this will provide some improvement.
However, I know I’ll need to upgrade the shocks at some point.
Do you have any suggestions for reliable shock upgrades that have worked well for you?
Thanks again!
These Yokomo big-bore shocks are a go-to for the drift community for a reason. They just work well.
I 100% support swapping to these at some point.
Truth is though: unless your old shocks are just plain worn out - I don't think there is really that much to be gained.
Finding the right spring rate and oil combo is 1000x more impactful than a core shock body upgrade.
I have built mine big bores with 1.2 6 hole tapered pistons and filled with yokomo #oil. Also used Reve D springs on them.
Yes! I probably should have swapped the pistons while I was at it.
i would really love to see you converting a awd car to rwd and tune it till it works like a competitive drift car 💯
Thanks for the suggestion!
I have researched this multiple times for various chassis. Always seems to be a waste of time and $$$ compared to getting a proper RWD drift chassis.
Althought...I do have a Team Associated Apex 2 chassis now sitting there...
@@RoadsideRC couldn't you try using the cheapest electronics or using the stuff you already have? i saw lots of tamiya tt02 being converted and it works amazing
@user-rh6dq9ef5n The electronics cost is the same between all of the options.
It just doesn't make sense to buy a $200 Tamiya kit + $100+ conversion kit...when for that same money I could get a chassis that performs MUCH better straight out of the box.
I see these Tamiya conversions. They "work", but they certainly aren't top performers.
@@RoadsideRCtrue
How can i lower to ride height ? Currently have 8mm back and 13mm front
I like how the front big bore shocks behavior
But my rear is too stiff any suggestion ?
You will need to look at changing springs, changing pre-load, and adjusting how the shock is mounted. All of these will change the ride height.
@RoadsideRC if I will change the front shock upper shorter mount will it lower it ?
@@zixi2067 Nope - that will make it higher.
@RoadsideRC thank you as always helpful 🤝🤝🤝
Are you still running the stock springs on these shocks?
Yes I am.
I do like the ReveD spring sets though. Springs are just another tuning tool.
@RoadsideRC right on. I have a set of big bores im building. Im gonna rock my stock springs to start with also. Was just curious if you had made any changes since then. Thanks!
I wonder if thiker oil is affected more by temperature change, where as thinner will have a more consistent feel over different ambient temps. Great information as always Thank you.
Interesting question!!!
I have those same big bore shocks in my YD-2. I drilled those four holes bigger just like you, 1,5 mm. But I used 20 weight silicone oil. My opinion is that with 20 weight oil shocks act more stable. But as always, only my opinion.
20 would certainly be better than the 10 I put in there!!!
I have the Yeah Racing BRUTUS in my MST RMX and really like them once I got them set right. My RDX has stock, but i'm using a heavier body and think something like these will be a nice upgrade. Plus they look nice installed, which is a bonus. :D
Really hard to go wrong with these shocks.
At the end of the day - those Yeah Racing you have are probably just as good, for a lower price though.
Honestly, I like the QUTUS but Yeah Racing’s bladders and shock shafts suck.
The thing I hate most about the QUTUS is that the dual layer piston design traps A LOT of hidden air bubbles so you pretty much need to have a vacuum bleeder to get them consistent.
Going back to the seals, they’re too big for the shocks and I find that the shock caps foul on the bodies to where as you’re fighting the seal to fit onto the shock, you’re letting air back in.
I’m going to try some Yokomo “black” bladders which are made for the Big Bores in this video but yeah, not a fan of the QUTUS bladders.
Those Yokomo shocks should have come with the 5.8mm top ball mount & 4.3mm lower ball stud mounts also, so you don't need to transfer the plastic bushings from the pogo stick shocks. If you purchased Yokomo Y2-OP1A, you would have gotten those shocks, with the mounting hardware, front and rear springs from the ZX , the cream o-rings with 0.5mm adjustment spacer and front upper and lower AL arms, which take a lot play out of the upper arms and gives more adjustment, but does cost more than shocks alone, but those parts bundled together in the option kit is less than buying them separately. I also only go 1.2-1.4mm on the holes, as 1.5mm with 10Wt/100Cst is gonna be bouncy with long stock springs. The stock pistons should have been 1.1mm stock AFAIK. As a FYI, the SD 2.0 is 1.4mm x 4 hole pistons with 50Cst oil and shorter stiffer progressive springs to offset excessive bounciness compared to longer springs with light oil.
Thanks for the feedback!
they dont come with the lower 4.3mm ball stud, that comes with the kit (or car), these can be used like he has here on the yd-2z brushed ready to run that comes with the plastic non filled shocks, they mount awkward and ugly and theres nothing you can do short of sourcing the hardware yourself to change it. and its the whole reason i wish i had bought anything else lmfao.
@@codyskyrimvolen the shock kit comes with the top 5.8mm ball, but not the bottom 4.3mm screw ball studs from what I see, but the Y2-OP1A kit comes with the mounting hardware for shocks and the front arm upgrades, which I mentioned was better for the price, but they seem out of stock from Amain now.
@@ezveedub238 im also going with red shocks and unfortunately they only offer that upgrade kit in black
Can you review the Radio link Rc6gs v3 for something like the Redcat Rds? I cant find anyone actually Reviewing it for drifting only reviews for crawlers and bashers.
I have helped tune another person's car that was using it. It "worked", but left a lot to be desired. He eventually upgraded.
I would not suggest going that route unless you had no other choice.
@@RoadsideRCI use it on my no prep car but it’s the V2 can tune a lot more then you think of you just gotta know what settings to go to or the menu you need and go from there
These are a huge controversy
Why?
@@RoadsideRC because there's a lot of people buying those and have terrible luck with them sticking not having travel being too stiff. And not just new people I'm talking about people that have been drifting for years. There's just something about them. Maybe it's a quality control thing
@@RoadsideRC and yes I know people that swear by them have no issues. And I haven't watched your full video so I don't know if you've did something that I haven't done but I will. From the blue o-rings cream o rings clear o-rings to 45° angle when you're putting the bladder on some people say drill a hole on top of the cap to equalize the pressure. Using a shock stand making sure all the air is out I've done it all. Lol
@@marcoshuerta8661 Interesting. I know a lot of folks have trouble when they put the wrong type of oil in. They went together beautifully for me.
Mine would stick with the clear o rings but then I switched to reved red o ring, and nows it's moves butter smooth