Hey! Just wanted to say a huge thank you. I was trying to figure out the transfer case location and an angle to get in there for hours, forums were no help, but fortunately found your video. Cheers mate and thanks for saving me a water logged TC!!
What I think a lot of people don't realize is that the risk for water ingress is NOT the breather valve. What ends up happening is when the hot running axle hits the comparatively cooler water and the water exceeds the height of the breather valve, the breather valve will close shut creating negative pressure in the axle housing. When this happens water gets sucked in through the axle seals, not the vent tube.
@@stanblack1235 no, I think you should do a hose extension with sintered filters at the top, at the highest point you can mount it. They allow free flow of air while keeping debris out, so that vacuum doesn't become an issue when the hot axle hits the cold water. Don't use the OE style ends that clamp shut with negative pressure. The confusion exists because the problem is usually explained wrong.
Thank you for this video! I watched it way back when you first released it and again today. What brought me here was the fact I just watched a video on the ARB diff breather kit. Your video (and the fact you did your whole trip without issue) has motivated me to do this one myself the way you did it! Thank you so much for all these videos!
I extended all of my hoses and tied them in to the engine intake so they all breathe through my snorkle. I tied a main line in to the engine intake, after the air filter, and ran this the length of the Wrangler and then tied each of the breather hoses in to this main line.
When I extended my breather hoses I pulled the cap off the hose, fit a double-end barbed fitting to the open end then ran the extension to the top of the firewall. Re-capped it and called it good
Once clever trick to ad on to that last line of defense for the breather hoses. Have them end in one place and put like bucket upside down over the ends. So if the water go there, then the ends are in little air pocket that give them few extra cups of air to breath if needed until the water goes down again. But like you said, if you are full hood deep in water, soon you will find other problems, much more urgent than water in your oil. I remember in my old Toyota, the computer was in box behind the glove compartment and someone advice me to water prof it extra. I think I put silicon on all joints and wiring on the box for extra protection. If you are hood deep in water, you soon will be seat deep also on the inside. And many electronics can't handle that.
I’ve seen a machined billet manifold that someone sells to plumb the lines into . The manifold mounts to the firewall at about the same location you’ve chosen. Love your work and live my adventures through your videos since having a heart attack cut short my own.
This video was massively helpful. I’m curious if you put a clip on the breather hose above the transfer case? I ended up having to tie the clip with fishing line so it was stuck open, slide it on, then unwind it. I couldn’t fit any tools to do it the traditional way. So glad I saw this video first. Thanks again.
I did *just* manage to get one on there, yes. Happy to hear it was helpful! I'm about to do it again on my new JL, I hope I can get my hands in there again
I think you did an excellent job. The Camel Trophy cars had hard breather extensions - kind like the ARB airlines for the diff-locks - like you but ran them paralell up to the top of the raised air-intake.
I had a good look at extending the transfer case breather. Lol it’s pretty hard to get at. I can’t even get my finger tips onto it. But I have a plan. I’m going to remove the alloy exhaust bracket that goes onto the cross member. It’s in the way and maybe , just maybe I can get at it. I will attempt this in a couple of weeks. I will let you know.
@@TheRoadChoseMe I have done the transfer case breather to the tail lights. I removed the exhaust bracket to do this just two bolts. I felt there was less heat source going to the rear.
Thicker fluids need a larger diameter breather hose. Like axles use gear oil and transfer case uses ATF. Found out about this info looking into an Atlas swap as it uses gear oil while the stock case uses ATF.
Add one more thing to love about my ZR2. Comes standard with extended breather tubes. Front one is run up into the engine bay next to the fuse box (or maybe the air box), and the rear one is run up to just behind the gas filler tube.
The fr diff goes up on the core support, trans and x-fer on the fire wall and rear diff to the fuel fill area. Sadly some ZR's didn't get the extended hoses, parts supply issues.
I saw the bucket comment here. My thought was to put the ends of the hoses into a small plastic bag. Where the two breather hoses are together, there would be enough extra space to allow them to breathe. On the other two, the bag would act like a balloon, expanding and contracting as necessary. You could tell how effective they are when you open your hood. It also occurred to me that you could use the little 90º hose to route the transmission breather vertically with a double-ended hose barb. Thanks for this video series. I'm thinking about getting a diesel Gladiator to travel around the USA and Canada. But the new 392 V8 Wrangler looks like it would be a lot of fun!
Ive been thinking of adding longer hoses as well, though Im going to try and incorporate them into the intake snorkle so they have the same height as the engine intake.
I never got around to doing this on my JKU but when I researched it I saw that many people ran the rear axle breather up into the rear taillight housing. Would need less hose that way. Not sure if that was an option on the Gladiator.
Do you think it would be possible to install some nipples right into your engine Snorkel (drill a hole, install a machined part, silicone sealed) within the engine bay. Instead of your breather hoses for the diff's could use the air from the snorkel without having to route them outside the engine bay? Tapping into the existing snorkel air supply as it were
If you think your Gladiator has poor breathers, my Land Rover just has brass valves on top of the axle casings, and a small hole (probably large needle sized) on the gearbox and the transfer box. I also need to screw in a small square-headed plug into the bell housing before wading too. The brass valves do work - sort of, but they need to be serviced every 12 months. To be fair, there are other reasons why the wading depth is only 18 inches (450 mm) - the distributor is halfway down the side of the engine, below the battery and at the same height as the steering box!
When do the trips start? Because the warmer weather is coming fast and going North will be bloody hot. Tassie and the highlands and the Sth Coast of Australia first?
I am not an engineer, but from an engineering point of view, the longer the hose, more pressure the rear axle will have to sustain to “breathe”. It wouldn’t damage the rear axle, but it could diminish the “breathing” efficiency. Right?
Good question. So many breather kits are installed, especially in Australia. I haven't heard of any problems so far. Breathers can be a problem if clogged with mud though, so...
Does the gas tank also have a breather? Or is that handled by relocating the charcoal canister? Even if you never ford deep water another reason to extend the breathers is to avoid buildup of mud and debris plugging the valves.
Agreed. It is best to raise them and put some kind of sintered air filter on the end. The OE valves can close shut even if the water does not exceed their height, due to the fast cooling of the diffs. Which will pull water in at the axle seals. The sintered filters will add a bit of protection to the open vent tubes.
It would have been very helpful if you had shown how you installed the transfer case breather hose. When I saw your video title, I thought, finally someone is going to show me a good way to install the TC breather hose. Greatly disappointed. As your video sits, it's 2 stars out of 10.
What more do you need to know? I pulled off the little breather I showed, and I pushed on my replacement hose that runs up to the engine bay, then secured it with a clip and zip tie. As you could see, it was exceptionally hard to get the camera in there.
Hey! Just wanted to say a huge thank you. I was trying to figure out the transfer case location and an angle to get in there for hours, forums were no help, but fortunately found your video. Cheers mate and thanks for saving me a water logged TC!!
What I think a lot of people don't realize is that the risk for water ingress is NOT the breather valve. What ends up happening is when the hot running axle hits the comparatively cooler water and the water exceeds the height of the breather valve, the breather valve will close shut creating negative pressure in the axle housing. When this happens water gets sucked in through the axle seals, not the vent tube.
This is 100% facts!!
From your viewpoint, does this mean there is no need to do the hose extension?
@@stanblack1235 no, I think you should do a hose extension with sintered filters at the top, at the highest point you can mount it. They allow free flow of air while keeping debris out, so that vacuum doesn't become an issue when the hot axle hits the cold water. Don't use the OE style ends that clamp shut with negative pressure. The confusion exists because the problem is usually explained wrong.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 Thank you very much for the excellent explanation.
Thanks for this. Is there a way to prevent water from getting sucked in through the axle seals?
Thank you for this video! I watched it way back when you first released it and again today. What brought me here was the fact I just watched a video on the ARB diff breather kit. Your video (and the fact you did your whole trip without issue) has motivated me to do this one myself the way you did it! Thank you so much for all these videos!
You are so welcome!
I extended all of my hoses and tied them in to the engine intake so they all breathe through my snorkle. I tied a main line in to the engine intake, after the air filter, and ran this the length of the Wrangler and then tied each of the breather hoses in to this main line.
When I extended my breather hoses I pulled the cap off the hose, fit a double-end barbed fitting to the open end then ran the extension to the top of the firewall. Re-capped it and called it good
That would work too!
After reading your comment this is what I chose to do also, so thanks for that.
What size barbed and did you buy?
Remembered you did this video. Great resource! Loved your interview on overland Journal Pod with Scott too! Thanks man!.
Glad it was helpful!
Once clever trick to ad on to that last line of defense for the breather hoses. Have them end in one place and put like bucket upside down over the ends. So if the water go there, then the ends are in little air pocket that give them few extra cups of air to breath if needed until the water goes down again. But like you said, if you are full hood deep in water, soon you will find other problems, much more urgent than water in your oil. I remember in my old Toyota, the computer was in box behind the glove compartment and someone advice me to water prof it extra. I think I put silicon on all joints and wiring on the box for extra protection. If you are hood deep in water, you soon will be seat deep also on the inside. And many electronics can't handle that.
Great video man! Very thorough and appreciated the level of effort filming each of the locations.
Super helpful vid! I've been thinking about extending the breather hoses on my vehicle, and where to route them, so perfect timing!!
I’ve seen a machined billet manifold that someone sells to plumb the lines into . The manifold mounts to the firewall at about the same location you’ve chosen. Love your work and live my adventures through your videos since having a heart attack cut short my own.
I hope you get better mate and can get out there.
Do you have a link to that billeted part?
I have been thinking of doing this to my JKU. Thanks for this video!
Just got a glimpse of the hood map! It looks great! 👍
Here's my DIY article for how I did it on my JK
theroadchoseme.com/diy-jeep-wrangler-jk-breather-hose-extensions
@@TheRoadChoseMe
Thanks buddy!👍
This video was massively helpful. I’m curious if you put a clip on the breather hose above the transfer case? I ended up having to tie the clip with fishing line so it was stuck open, slide it on, then unwind it. I couldn’t fit any tools to do it the traditional way. So glad I saw this video first. Thanks again.
I did *just* manage to get one on there, yes.
Happy to hear it was helpful! I'm about to do it again on my new JL, I hope I can get my hands in there again
I’m subscribed, finally a Jeep gladiator. Nothing against Toyota jeep is my favourite
Great job and explanation, thank you Sir.
I think you did an excellent job. The Camel Trophy cars had hard breather extensions - kind like the ARB airlines for the diff-locks - like you but ran them paralell up to the top of the raised air-intake.
Can you post the link to the clamps you used?
I followed your advice and bought 5/16” tubing.
Thank you for the video!
I had a good look at extending the transfer case breather. Lol it’s pretty hard to get at. I can’t even get my finger tips onto it. But I have a plan. I’m going to remove the alloy exhaust bracket that goes onto the cross member. It’s in the way and maybe , just maybe I can get at it. I will attempt this in a couple of weeks. I will let you know.
I managed to get my hand in there (just) - so you CAN do it!
@@TheRoadChoseMe I have done the transfer case breather to the tail lights. I removed the exhaust bracket to do this just two bolts. I felt there was less heat source going to the rear.
Thicker fluids need a larger diameter breather hose.
Like axles use gear oil and transfer case uses ATF.
Found out about this info looking into an Atlas swap as it uses gear oil while the stock case uses ATF.
My breather hose playlist - ruclips.net/p/PLdCzwku9pYQNBehABl5MY173jJTItXMgc
It's amazing to me to see "Made in USA" in Australia
Add one more thing to love about my ZR2. Comes standard with extended breather tubes. Front one is run up into the engine bay next to the fuse box (or maybe the air box), and the rear one is run up to just behind the gas filler tube.
The fr diff goes up on the core support, trans and x-fer on the fire wall and rear diff to the fuel fill area. Sadly some ZR's didn't get the extended hoses, parts supply issues.
@@madcratebuilder those ones got a gortex valve. Effective but not great. I know guy who has one, and he's OK with them, but wishes he had tubes.
I saw the bucket comment here. My thought was to put the ends of the hoses into a small plastic bag. Where the two breather hoses are together, there would be enough extra space to allow them to breathe. On the other two, the bag would act like a balloon, expanding and contracting as necessary. You could tell how effective they are when you open your hood. It also occurred to me that you could use the little 90º hose to route the transmission breather vertically with a double-ended hose barb. Thanks for this video series. I'm thinking about getting a diesel Gladiator to travel around the USA and Canada. But the new 392 V8 Wrangler looks like it would be a lot of fun!
Ive been thinking of adding longer hoses as well, though Im going to try and incorporate them into the intake snorkle so they have the same height as the engine intake.
I never got around to doing this on my JKU but when I researched it I saw that many people ran the rear axle breather up into the rear taillight housing. Would need less hose that way. Not sure if that was an option on the Gladiator.
I thought about it, but decided the engine bay was a little higher. I should have mentioned that on camera.
Don't forget your gas tank EVAP breather.
Why not run it up the back of the bed behind the bed to your shell/rack system?
Do you think it would be possible to install some nipples right into your engine Snorkel (drill a hole, install a machined part, silicone sealed) within the engine bay. Instead of your breather hoses for the diff's could use the air from the snorkel without having to route them outside the engine bay? Tapping into the existing snorkel air supply as it were
Did you add an ARB air locker front and rear trying to figure out how to run those on the original rubicon locker switching
No, the Rubicon lockers are more reliable and just as strong... no need to replace them.
If you think your Gladiator has poor breathers, my Land Rover just has brass valves on top of the axle casings, and a small hole (probably large needle sized) on the gearbox and the transfer box. I also need to screw in a small square-headed plug into the bell housing before wading too. The brass valves do work - sort of, but they need to be serviced every 12 months. To be fair, there are other reasons why the wading depth is only 18 inches (450 mm) - the distributor is halfway down the side of the engine, below the battery and at the same height as the steering box!
Interesting stuff, like it!
Great video.
Great video. Thanks.
5/16 is next hose size up
is it possible to join breathers together under the vehicle and continue with only one hose to the chosen high point ?
Yep, you can do that, and it's actually what I did on my previous Wrangler.
What if you join them with air box? With the snorkel it be impossible water to get in.
Having the smaller hose diameter is probably better. It gives a tighter fit on the fittings.
Prepare for the worst and hope for the best. If you stall in the water is when you can have problems.
Why not connect all the breather hoses together, so you only have a single tube coming up into the engine bay?
did you use a c clamp on the transfer case when you reconnected the hose?
I did get a little clamp on there, yes
When do the trips start? Because the warmer weather is coming fast and going North will be bloody hot. Tassie and the highlands and the Sth Coast of Australia first?
I'm in Covid lockdown now, can't legally go more than 5km from home. The adventures will start as soon as I'm legally allowed!
Hi exertions or extensions? I am confused!
Thank you
Did you say what kind of hose you used?
Fuel line hose
hello you say that you will take a bigger hose which exactly do you recommend
saw another comment say 5/16"
I am not an engineer, but from an engineering point of view, the longer the hose, more pressure the rear axle will have to sustain to “breathe”. It wouldn’t damage the rear axle, but it could diminish the “breathing” efficiency. Right?
Good question. So many breather kits are installed, especially in Australia. I haven't heard of any problems so far.
Breathers can be a problem if clogged with mud though, so...
Does the gas tank also have a breather? Or is that handled by relocating the charcoal canister?
Even if you never ford deep water another reason to extend the breathers is to avoid buildup of mud and debris plugging the valves.
Tanks usually have their breather in the filling cap.
@@zandNL You are right. Thanks.
Why not run the breathers up high into the snorkel instead of the engine bay?
Thanks for not just saying it's a good idea, showing the end result, and calling it "job done".
You must add a diferential air filter kit, like ARB or Air On Board (AOB), to avoid dust, humidity… 👍
Agreed. It is best to raise them and put some kind of sintered air filter on the end. The OE valves can close shut even if the water does not exceed their height, due to the fast cooling of the diffs. Which will pull water in at the axle seals. The sintered filters will add a bit of protection to the open vent tubes.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 I looked on amazon for sintered air filter and I cant seem to locate a barbed connection version. can you kindly send a link?
Why a auto and not the manual 6 speed?
In Australia the Gladiator only comes with the 8 speed auto
Route them into the intake tube, after the air filter. That way all your gears are breathing filtered air from way up on the snorkel.
Dont think its a good idea to place them under Vacuum .
😎👍
maybe they should not be touching??
It would have been very helpful if you had shown how you installed the transfer case breather hose. When I saw your video title, I thought, finally someone is going to show me a good way to install the TC breather hose. Greatly disappointed. As your video sits, it's 2 stars out of 10.
What more do you need to know?
I pulled off the little breather I showed, and I pushed on my replacement hose that runs up to the engine bay, then secured it with a clip and zip tie.
As you could see, it was exceptionally hard to get the camera in there.