As a routesetter I have to say, screwing in testing jugs with spax instead of M10 makes some gym owners re ally not happy. Also if you search positions for holds I would use M10 first and then for fine tuning if necessary use the spax. Like in this boulder both starting holds are very close to M10s and as far as I can see in the video they dont even tried them. But all in all a good tutorial :)
As always it depends on the gym. If it’s unnecessary screwing yes - like our testing hold, we should have used a normal axis downclimber with a M10 but we’re too lazy and too focused doing our video. The two side pulls maybe could have been installed with a M10 but we go by feeling and found optimal positions quickly with screw ons only. Usually we adopt to the gym we’re setting at and studio bloc is fine with using screw ons only if we want ☺️
When you moved the jug down 13:55 (to make the fly-by dyno with the right hand easier) could you have instead added a foot-chip on the left to be able to launch higher? Or would that have potentially broken the toe-hook start?
Potentially. But then you’d have to stomp your left foot higher out of the toehook with the right which makes it usually a very tensiony powerful stompy move out of the difficulty range. But would have worked as well
Looking at the first version at 7:00 I was wondering whether it's possible to put the hold somewhere in the middle between those two, and use it both as starting hold and as the toehook hold. So starting quite low with a double match and then exploding and catching it as a toehook.
The Orginal big starting handhold could have worked - problem was that the depth of it and the incline wasn’t as good as the big macro. The toehook would have not been as comfortable and secure - which we were looking for at this point. But in general if you can use one hold as start and the toehook? That’s champagne ☺️
Planning to open a gym in the future, so I have been studying route setting like crazy. Great job on this video. With the crazy costs of building a gym, especially those that are invested in the walls, I want to avoid chewing up the wall with endless amounts of screw holes. Does that make sense? With this in mind, I like the idea of your “working jug”, but why would you not simply use a bolt on hold and avoid the unnecessary screw damage. Serious inquiry- not a jab. Thanks.
The wear of the wall is part of the job your wall will get old and boring long before it's destroyed by set screws. Don't worry so much, because when you do your setting will suffer from it. It's pretty lame when routesetters are kept on their toes because management doesn't want screw holes. Setters should be responsible and conscious of what it is acceptable or not, make them think before doing anything as it should be, but don't police them too hard as their final product will suffer from it.
No you are totally right. Usually we use designated down climbing jugs but on the other hand a wall with the size of studio bloc lasts another ten years before any of the panels need to be replaced because of too many holes. But in general we use down climbers or a M10. Was just too lazy in the moment of the video tbh
I hope wall owners (some do) tell you it’s forbidden to put screws ons in. If you got questions about walls or wall designs let us know. A lot of mistakes can be avoided and money saved ☺️
The best duo!
Dream team
nice boulder and hold too
Wish i got to chat with you more Nicky when you were in KL
Looking forward to your next visit
Next year!!
As a routesetter I have to say, screwing in testing jugs with spax instead of M10 makes some gym owners re ally not happy. Also if you search positions for holds I would use M10 first and then for fine tuning if necessary use the spax. Like in this boulder both starting holds are very close to M10s and as far as I can see in the video they dont even tried them. But all in all a good tutorial :)
As always it depends on the gym. If it’s unnecessary screwing yes - like our testing hold, we should have used a normal axis downclimber with a M10 but we’re too lazy and too focused doing our video.
The two side pulls maybe could have been installed with a M10 but we go by feeling and found optimal positions quickly with screw ons only.
Usually we adopt to the gym we’re setting at and studio bloc is fine with using screw ons only if we want ☺️
Such good energy!🤩
Thank you!! 🫰
The amount of side details you gave was really nice. Stronger people can skip the catch and lunge for the jug, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.
Thank you!
Mega
When you moved the jug down 13:55 (to make the fly-by dyno with the right hand easier) could you have instead added a foot-chip on the left to be able to launch higher? Or would that have potentially broken the toe-hook start?
Potentially. But then you’d have to stomp your left foot higher out of the toehook with the right which makes it usually a very tensiony powerful stompy move out of the difficulty range. But would have worked as well
Looking at the first version at 7:00 I was wondering whether it's possible to put the hold somewhere in the middle between those two, and use it both as starting hold and as the toehook hold. So starting quite low with a double match and then exploding and catching it as a toehook.
The Orginal big starting handhold could have worked - problem was that the depth of it and the incline wasn’t as good as the big macro.
The toehook would have not been as comfortable and secure - which we were looking for at this point. But in general if you can use one hold as start and the toehook? That’s champagne ☺️
@@BetaRoutesetting would be really interesting to seein a future episode, or something in general about re using holds in a different way
@@colemantrebor6574 ok we'll do that!!
Planning to open a gym in the future, so I have been studying route setting like crazy. Great job on this video. With the crazy costs of building a gym, especially those that are invested in the walls, I want to avoid chewing up the wall with endless amounts of screw holes. Does that make sense? With this in mind, I like the idea of your “working jug”, but why would you not simply use a bolt on hold and avoid the unnecessary screw damage. Serious inquiry- not a jab.
Thanks.
The wear of the wall is part of the job your wall will get old and boring long before it's destroyed by set screws. Don't worry so much, because when you do your setting will suffer from it.
It's pretty lame when routesetters are kept on their toes because management doesn't want screw holes. Setters should be responsible and conscious of what it is acceptable or not, make them think before doing anything as it should be, but don't police them too hard as their final product will suffer from it.
Make a concrete wall, no one will put screws in😂
No you are totally right. Usually we use designated down climbing jugs but on the other hand a wall with the size of studio bloc lasts another ten years before any of the panels need to be replaced because of too many holes.
But in general we use down climbers or a M10. Was just too lazy in the moment of the video tbh
I hope wall owners (some do) tell you it’s forbidden to put screws ons in. If you got questions about walls or wall designs let us know. A lot of mistakes can be avoided and money saved ☺️
Cool video!
Which makita is this?
Klasseboulder 👍