G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 that is a truly beautiful beam engine that you made I know that it wouldn’t have been easy to machine thank you for showing it regards John.
Hi Bernard Thanks for your generous comments. I had really very little engineering experience before embarking on the model as my professional life was as an Internet designer. I found that as long as you took your time and studied the drawings very carefully it was fairly straightforward to build. However there are a number of errors in the drawings so you do need to be careful. If you do go ahead with building one I would be happy to share with you the mistakes I found. Graham
+engineeringmodeller I finally just seen that you replied to my comment. I am about to finish my first model from castings. I chose the Stuart Models 10V as it seemed to be a good entry level project. Could you tell me, where did you purchase your castings and plans for this model? I am very interested in building this engine after I knock out a few more simpler ones to fine tune my skills. Thanks! I look forward to hearing back!
Je suis désolé de vous contredire, le régulateur ne tourne pas rond dans l'axe et le volant idem. J'ai construit la même beam engine 6ans auparavant avec la chaudière ancienne comme les grandes identiques à l'échelle.excusez moi pour les critiques.j'ai construit 8 machine à vapeur. En ce moment je fabrique un moteur Benz 1886 à explosion.
Hi Steve Yes the governer does appear to work although over a fairly limited range. I think my buterfly valve is not as efficent as it could be. i think its a great model to build and really looks the part. if you do have any questions regarding the build i would be happy to try and answer them if that would help. Graham
An engineering modeler has to sort these things out. Back in the day they didn't have cad or solid models to check clearances and stresses out. The computer does all. As a prototype machinist at NASA for 18 years I had sort these things out in spite of the computers. Enjoy it. Makes you a better engineer/machinist.
Well done Graham. I have just received a set of castings for this engine for my 60th birthday and I am looking to make a start very soon. I was wondering; does the governor mechanism work? Can you use it to stop the engine running to fast? Best Regards Steve.
I could watch this all day 👍 Im curious as to why the drive wheel (to become belt wheel) isn’t in the other side of the flywheel and then no need for the long drive shaft and belt wheel
Probably just from a practical construction on the full size engine. It was easier to do this than extend the mainshaft carrying the huge flywheel to include the drive pully. At least that's my guess,
@@engineeringmodellerbonjours de France, j'ai construit une beem engine aussi, la même. La vitesse de la poulie devait être beaucoup plus grande que celle de l'arbre. Parce que c'était des machines très lentes environ 80 tours /minutes donc la poulie, à l'extérieur.
For a first attempt at model engineering you did a very fine job. This really isn't a beginners project at all. And those frustrating drawing errors have been uncorrected for decades. Beam engines were alway's a slow running engine. Maybe 30-60 rpm at the very most, and they always look far better running slow. You could remake the shaft to fit the slightly oversize bore in the flywheel, and if your bore is straight with the flywheel's outer rim that will correct the flywheel wobble. Drills don't drill straight or round as I'm sure you already know. So you drill first, bore under size for round and straight, then a reamer will give you a hole very close to being on size.Historically industry took a great deal of pride in there steam engines and everything was done as much as possible to neaten up all the parts. So I very much hope you don't mind a thought or two. All the planks on the flooring would have been pegged down much like the hull and deck planks were on the sailing ships. So you'd see the end grain of those at the ends and at each beam running under the engine as the supporting structure. And at the M.E. shows and exhibitions it's generally thought that all bolt or stud ends should have a radius to finish them off. Even at full size that was very likely done on almost all engine's and for the same reasons. Also at those shows they like to see somewhere between 1 1/2 and 3 threads maximum protruding above the nut. Yes it would be a great deal of work to do so now, and only you can decide if the work involved would be worth it to you personally. It does make a very large difference in the finished engine though.
Very fine model! I've been thinking of getting into castings. I have lathe experience, and am about to get my first milling machine. What is your level of skill for machining?
is there a video where I can understand how that linkage for the connecting from the beam to connecting rod. How does it align that connecting rod; is there a template somewhere that i can scale up and down.
Sorry for the delay in replying, there is a good description in an old model engineer magazine. I can email you it if you wish. My contact details can be found on www.shorrockphotography.com/intro/contact.html
Hunter 2008. Hi the castings and plans are available from Reeves 2000, there is also a fantastic 3D drawing from Grabcad. Be aware that although the design has been around for many years there are mistakes on the drawings that have never been corrected.
I am no expert but I believe it is there to handle the situation where if the engine was to stop at TDC then it allows the slide valve to be disconnected and the engine moved by manual means to allow the machine to start again.
Les fonderies de chez Reeves ne valent pas grand chose j'ai usiné la même beam engine et j'ai du refaire la bielle dans la masse because plusieurs points étaient trempés.
Beautiful model,,, your dead right the slower they run the better, I wish I could afford the lathe and tools to try my hand at something,,,, mine is what you might call the poor mans version, making do with 4 inch soil pipe for the cylinder ,,,, but I still got her working at 9 rpm ....
well made engine my compliments only try to rectify the wobbling flywheel it is ruining such a lovely engine no hard feelings believe me .it is a fact that us modellers take of an non importance maybe
Well spotted, I made a fundamental mistake when I reamed the hole in the flywheel I thought that I was using a 1/2" reamer but in fact it was 0.505, I the attempted to locktight the shaft on to the flywheel but it resulted in the wobble that you see. Anyway you live and learn.
Thanks for your comment , it was a pleasure to build and I learnt a lot from this my first attempt at model engineering.
G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 that is a truly beautiful beam engine that you made I know that it wouldn’t have been easy to machine thank you for showing it regards John.
This is an amazing achievement. It is not just a model but a veritable work of art.
Thank you.
Hi Bernard
Thanks for your generous comments. I had really very little engineering experience before embarking on the model as my professional life was as an Internet designer.
I found that as long as you took your time and studied the drawings very carefully it was fairly straightforward to build. However there are a number of errors in the drawings so you do need to be careful. If you do go ahead with building one I would be happy to share with you the mistakes I found.
Graham
+engineeringmodeller I finally just seen that you replied to my comment. I am about to finish my first model from castings. I chose the Stuart Models 10V as it seemed to be a good entry level project. Could you tell me, where did you purchase your castings and plans for this model? I am very interested in building this engine after I knock out a few more simpler ones to fine tune my skills. Thanks! I look forward to hearing back!
Lovely engine and superbly constructed video. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice work. It looks great and runs great. I like the extra gear to run another drive shaft.
I believe this is the most beautiful and well made piece I have seen on RUclips.
Michael, many thanks for your kind comments but I don't think I quite justify the accolade. There are many far better models than mine on RUclips.
Je suis désolé de vous contredire, le régulateur ne tourne pas rond dans l'axe et le volant idem. J'ai construit la même beam engine 6ans auparavant avec la chaudière ancienne comme les grandes identiques à l'échelle.excusez moi pour les critiques.j'ai construit 8 machine à vapeur. En ce moment je fabrique un moteur Benz 1886 à explosion.
Very nice model it looks and runs great.
Thank you very much!
Hi Steve
Yes the governer does appear to work although over a fairly limited range. I think my buterfly valve is not as efficent as it could be.
i think its a great model to build and really looks the part. if you do have any questions regarding the build i would be happy to try and answer them if that would help.
Graham
Well done. Beautiful job.
That's interesting, glad you sorted the problem.
An engineering modeler has to sort these things out.
Back in the day they didn't have cad or solid models to check clearances and stresses out. The computer does all.
As a prototype machinist at NASA for 18 years I had sort these things out in spite of the computers.
Enjoy it.
Makes you a better engineer/machinist.
This is my favorite engine! Don't know why.
Graham, beautiful!!! 👍🏻
Well done Graham. I have just received a set of castings for this engine for my 60th birthday and I am looking to make a start very soon. I was wondering; does the governor mechanism work? Can you use it to stop the engine running to fast? Best Regards Steve.
To be pedantic, the lever on the steam inlet valve is 90degrees out. It should be inline with the pipework when fully open.
always be pedantic :)
I could watch this all day 👍
Im curious as to why the drive wheel (to become belt wheel) isn’t in the other side of the flywheel and then no need for the long drive shaft and belt wheel
Probably just from a practical construction on the full size engine. It was easier to do this than extend the mainshaft carrying the huge flywheel to include the drive pully. At least that's my guess,
@@engineeringmodellerbonjours de France, j'ai construit une beem engine aussi, la même. La vitesse de la poulie devait être beaucoup plus grande que celle de l'arbre. Parce que c'était des machines très lentes environ 80 tours /minutes donc la poulie, à l'extérieur.
Thanks, thats appreciated.
good job are the wobbles part of the type and size engine?
Excellent Job I just completed steam engine and am look for new project.
Where did you get the plans and castings from?
For a first attempt at model engineering you did a very fine job. This really isn't a beginners project at all. And those frustrating drawing errors have been uncorrected for decades. Beam engines were alway's a slow running engine. Maybe 30-60 rpm at the very most, and they always look far better running slow. You could remake the shaft to fit the slightly oversize bore in the flywheel, and if your bore is straight with the flywheel's outer rim that will correct the flywheel wobble. Drills don't drill straight or round as I'm sure you already know. So you drill first, bore under size for round and straight, then a reamer will give you a hole very close to being on size.Historically industry took a great deal of pride in there steam engines and everything was done as much as possible to neaten up all the parts. So I very much hope you don't mind a thought or two.
All the planks on the flooring would have been pegged down much like the hull and deck planks were on the sailing ships. So you'd see the end grain of those at the ends and at each beam running under the engine as the supporting structure. And at the M.E. shows and exhibitions it's generally thought that all bolt or stud ends should have a radius to finish them off. Even at full size that was very likely done on almost all engine's and for the same reasons. Also at those shows they like to see somewhere between 1 1/2 and 3 threads maximum protruding above the nut. Yes it would be a great deal of work to do so now, and only you can decide if the work involved would be worth it to you personally. It does make a very large difference in the finished engine though.
Very fine model! I've been thinking of getting into castings. I have lathe experience, and am about to get my first milling machine. What is your level of skill for machining?
is there a video where I can understand how that linkage for the connecting from the beam to connecting rod. How does it align that connecting rod; is there a template somewhere that i can scale up and down.
Sorry for the delay in replying, there is a good description in an old model engineer magazine. I can email you it if you wish. My contact details can be found on www.shorrockphotography.com/intro/contact.html
It's an excellent engine. Where are the plans and castings available from?
Hunter 2008. Hi the castings and plans are available from Reeves 2000, there is also a fantastic 3D drawing from Grabcad. Be aware that although the design has been around for many years there are mistakes on the drawings that have never been corrected.
I’m also curious as to what the lever does on the valve train?
I am no expert but I believe it is there to handle the situation where if the engine was to stop at TDC then it allows the slide valve to be disconnected and the engine moved by manual means to allow the machine to start again.
Hi , the plans and castings came from Reeves. It's a great model but beware there are quite a few errors in the drawings.
Les fonderies de chez Reeves ne valent pas grand chose j'ai usiné la même beam engine et j'ai du refaire la bielle dans la masse because plusieurs points étaient trempés.
@@micheldilly8531 I have found that Reeves are very good when you find a defect in a casting, they replaced two of mine that were undersize.
good grief, that's gorgeous. sounds awesome too……this is very important as well (we know this) :D
Beautiful model,,, your dead right the slower they run the better, I wish I could afford the lathe and tools to try my hand at something,,,, mine is what you might call the poor mans version, making do with 4 inch soil pipe for the cylinder ,,,, but I still got her working at 9 rpm ....
Hi Alan
Thanks for the kind comments, yours sounds an interesting project expecially the scale!
Bali nave coil csl
well made engine my compliments only try to rectify the wobbling flywheel it is ruining such a lovely engine no hard feelings believe me .it is a fact that us modellers take of an non importance maybe
Well spotted, I made a fundamental mistake when I reamed the hole in the flywheel I thought that I was using a 1/2" reamer but in fact it was 0.505, I the attempted to locktight the shaft on to the flywheel but it resulted in the wobble that you see. Anyway you live and learn.
never use reamers they follow a previosly drilled hole better boring 100% concentric work