My goodness Sony like to complicate matters with their cameras! I love the 14/15 stops of DR you can get from them, but they need to look at Blackmagic as an example of how to create a logical, straightforward way of exposing your image and organising your menu settings.
This is the best video I’ve ever seen on this. I was so confused as to why I was getting grainy footage when everything looked fine on the screen when filming. It all makes sense now
Only 11k views in 3 months??? This is amazing because this is the first video I have finally come across that explains this topic from the ground up in a clean and organized way. Phillip - you are thorough and carefully explain everything in a slow and organize manner. I feel like I have actually learned something, which I can not say for a majority of the 'how to' RUclipsrs out there. Thank you for putting these videos together the way you do. I am so tired of these other guys and gals who just babble on and on and don't really ever get to the point while racking up a hundred-thousand views. I am definitely subscribing to your channel. Thanks!
Excellent. It’s like a complicated math question and I’m bad at math. I’ve been shooting in EI since I got the FX30 I just shoot and expose in the 2 base ISO’s. My footage rarely gets sent back for quality repair but honestly I wish I could understand more of your video due to my mental challenge and not your excellent delivery. Thank you SO much.
I have two channels, and I will like your videos from every channel that I have access on. there's something about you that I love. keep up the good work mate. your video your editing your way to explaining things, every thing is just awesome...
Had to pause at exactly 1:58 to make this comment, i've watched numerous videos on CINE EI but was still abit confused. However you explained it so clearly that i understood within the first 2 minutes of watching.
thank you so much for this on fuss no self-promoting no crazy introduction, humble, sincere, clear and concise tutorial. amazing. Keep on the good work!
Phillip, sir, THANK YOU! Echoing so many of the other comments I see, this is absolutely the best tutorial I’ve seen on what is a confusing subject. Thank you so much for covering so clearly. I finally get it! Having just added an FX6 to my arsenal, it’s just as well I do! Awesome video, thanks again ☺️🙏🏼🎥
Agree with the comments here, that this is absolutely the definitive guide and far better than other tutorials. I still maintain that there is a cynical quality to Sony's "invention" that's actually common-sensical to experienced filmmakers. (Cine EI is borne of Alistair Chapman's old-timey know-it-all bullying of Sony engineers in the CineAlta division some years ago.) In the elegant simplicity of Blackmagic's menuverse by comparison, it's simply well-known that the dual-sensor ISO has a 1250 ISO switch-point as between the lower and upper base ISOs, so we make our judgments accordingly based on our complex balancing of depth of field (aperture), shutter speed (180-degree rule almost always), and tolerable grain which should mostly be guided by continuity between adjacent shots and their grain profiles. In meh millennial parlance, Cine EI is best summed up by: "OBVIO!" 🙂 Sony/Chapman created a tedious workflow regime that's ultimately motivated by adding a bullet point to their feature lists/branding, pretending a revolution but introducing hardly anything but marketing fodder.
Finally someone who I am able to understand regarding this topic. I've watched a lot of video's with people trying to explain it as simple as possible, but I always miss the comparisons between the different EI levels and a step by step guide. Thank you so much for making this whole topic easier to understand!
I was thinking the same thing. Most of the videos are done by people who just drone on without really explaining anything. These videos are thoughtful and get to the point.
I have watched 6 different videos on this topic and this is by far the best, showing the why but also exactly how to make the settings in the menu of the FX3 and correcting and comparing the footage in post in Davinci Resolve. Thanks so much
I am currently using the GH5 and I’m looking to buy the FX3. I’ve never heard of Cine EI before and stumbled upon your video. Despite being from Germany and not speaking perfect English, it was my first time encountering Cine EI, yet I understood almost 100% of what it is and how it works! Incredibly well-explained! You’ve earned yourself a subscriber!
Wow. Fantastic video for a beginner like myself, thank you for putting so much effort into explaining this in such a digestible way. Literally watched every second and even rewatched segments while testing on my FX3 at the same time.
Thanks for this fantastic demonstration Phillip, Cine EI doesn't benefit me in a lot of my work but it has been quite the system to learn for when it's helpful. You're one of the few people who have mentioned the different IRE values when using the 709 lut so big cheers there! Wish I would have had that info early on - would have saved so much time testing footage. This video should go BIG.
Really appreciate you explaining Cine EI in such simple terms. I've tried it a couple times with my FX3, but did not like the work flow. For the massive amount of effort it takes in post, the marginal gains in image quality wasn't worth it to me. One of the biggest challenges for me was that it required me to constantly be fiddling with the EI level instead of just dialing in an exposure compensation. I'd rather focus on the composition rather than the exposure - let the camera do some of the heavy lifting, right? Also, since I shoot on multiple Sony cameras, I found it challenging to constantly having to remember which Zebra values go with the different log viewing profiles. Now, I just shoot everything in SLOG3 with Gamma Display Assist and target 41 on the grey card - ez peezee. I've got a video out coming out soon on that exact topic so stay tuned... Great work as usual!
Please share this with me, so target 41 grey will always get your Wb correct?? Im debating using Cine-ei or cine-ei quick??? for a beginner Im not understanding the ISO value on bottom right of touchscreen. I understand ISO and stops of light to stop down with ND filters outside so I can shoot at 24/60/120 FPS always at lowest Lens F-stop. Now im using Sony zeiss 35mm f2.8
Thanks for this video Phillip! Watched the whole thing. I've been wanting to try CineEI since I picked up the FX30, but I'm quite happy with my Flexible ISO workflow and didn't want to mess up a good thing. You did a great job teaching us what CineEI does and when best to use it though. The tests followed by the editing afterward were money. I feel like I want to replicate the tests on my own just so I finally fully grasp when, and when not to, use CineEI in my workflow. You da best man! Your vibes are super chill too, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much! I hadn't seen many videos that include the editing workflow, which is obviously, half the point! In earlier drafts of the video, I had a couple lines about encouraging people to try it for themselves because that's what I had to do before it made sense and I really understood it
Great demo. I still dont understand the purpose of the EI dial though... If we specifically set the value to either base, and work our exposure from there (controlling it with the iris, shutter speed, ND filter), why would we want to undeexpose or overexpose while creating the illussion of a correct exposure on the screen? And would it be okay just to lock all parameters for the shoot and only expose with the ND filter changing the base (800 - 2500) when necessary? Please correct me if im wrong, its just a bit hard to wrap my head around this shooting approach, altough I clearly see an opportunity of getting the cleanest looking footage out of this...
If you ETTR in a non-Cine EI mode or camera, you're looking at the overexposed image that you're capturing. So you can't really tell how it's going to look when you adjust the exposure. Cine EI allows you to ETTR (or ETTL) and see how the exposure is going to look. That allows you to take full control over your image. How dark to you want the shadows? How bright to you want the highlights? etc. Hopefully that makes sense. Good question and I see that's an area where I didn't explain well enough
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for the reply!!I think I have a better understanding of how it works now... probably still need some hands on experience with it. Yes, thats exactly the problem, everyone just explains the technical part of the cine EI mode; what the dials do, what the values on the screen are, etc... Your video by far is the most detailed I've seen on youtube, with all the resolve examples, diffenent exposures... But this part with monitoring the result is still a bit confusing... I think I can speak of everyone who's never had any experience with film cameras and non-adjustable isos :/ So if you happen to decice to do a second part of this video, rest assured theres an audience for that :) Thanks again!!
@@ValJedi Thanks for the feedback. In earlier drafts of the video, I had a few lines encouraging people to try it out. That's what I had to do before it really made sense!
This is exactly how I've been shooting with it for the last few months and I've been really happy with the images. I think you can shoot this way with success but after watching this video I have a much clearer understanding of how the tool was designed to be used. Nice video Phillip. Just subscribed!
Great explanation, dude!!! I do have one quick question... is there a way for me to custom program a button on my fx3, that allows me to switch from EI to flexible ISO with just a push of a button?
Thanks! I don't have my FX30 anymore so I'm not 100% sure but I don't think there's a way to program a custom button just to recall Flexible ISO or Cine EI. On Sony alpha cameras with a mode dial, you could just setup Custom Profiles but I guess you can't do this either on the FX3/30
Okay so I have a question. Let’s say I shoot an EI of 200 when I’m at a base ISO of 800. I’m simply over exposing by 2 stops, but it’s letting me see how it will look once corrected? Is it that simple or am I missing something?
Great explanation. The final part is awesome when we can see the best use for it. So, if I'm shooting a talent with a darker skin at a darker space (like a gym), the 200EI at 800 base ISO might be great to keep info on the skin and shadows. And the opposite might be good for a white model with white clothes in a fashion shoot or with a wedding dress. If i boost the EI, I'll get more info on the white/bright areas, this means more texture and info on the clothes she's using, for example, like a weeding dress full of details).
Really enjoyed this - still learning about my FX30 too. What color checker are you using? I think I’d like to get one and see if it helps my exposure. I always seem to be under exposing.
If you just follow the ISO dynamic range chart and use Flexible ISO, you will get the same results without having to readjust our exposure in post, right? Like, if I know my base is 800 and I want more detail in the shadows and I don't have a bright window I need to preserve, I can go down to 200 ISO (for example) and expose for middle gray right then and there and what you see on the screen is what you get, right? THIS VIDEO IS SO HELPFUL I'm just wrapping my head around why someone wouldn't just use fixable ISO. I GUSS, and correct me if I'm wrong... Cine EI is just a safety net for people that aren't sure how ISO is actually limiting dynamic range in the lows and highs when they adjust it? Does that sound accurate? THANKS! Flexible ISO does switch gain stages from low to hi when it hits 2500 though, right? Thanks again haha.
I'd like to do a video on this concept as well. You should get very similar, if not the same results, if you expose as you describe using middle grey and ISO, but I'd like to do a comparison just to check it out. I guess Sony's rationale is that the base ISO(s) will give you the best results rather than adjusting the actual ISO value... And yes, flexible ISO will switch from Low to High at 800 and 2500! Thanks for the comment and thanks for reminding me I need to try this out for myself
Thank you for this, I'm switching from a6400 to FX30, haven't shot anything yet, BUT this is quite puzzling, your analogy of the old film made sense to me, but the actual in practice somehow confused me. So technically, if I am to shoot during daytime snowy outdoor, I'm better off at 3200, which is ultra counter-intuitive?! Do I have this right?
Yes, in theory, but there is still a penalty for pushing the ISO past a certain point. Even at the high base ISO of 2500, the image is noticeably noisier and less detailed than the low base ISO of 800. In your scenario, if you want to maximize highlight detail, you could push it a stop or two above 800, but you want to make sure that you're not pushing it too far and introducing too much noise. IMO, 3200 is too noisy. I'd try 1000 and 1250 but I wouldn't push it further. Even Sony doesn't recommend pushing the EI value above the base because they want to keep the noise levels down. I'd recommend taking a look at the chart that Sony provides helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/contents/TP1000756717.html which shows the stops of latitude at all the different EI values to help you wrap your head around what's happening. And take some test shots and see for yourself.
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for the reply! Make sense, I guess I just need to go out and try it 😅 . I'm so used to the 'traditional' way The Ei kinda sound super alien and intimidating. Plus I don't have much XP with slog-3... I'm a Cine guy :) Great Channel you have! You have a new sub!
Excellent explanation and very thorough. FYI, although SONY removed the picture profile for SLOG3/SGamut3.Cine (PP8), you can still record SLOG3 outside of Cine EI in the FX3/FX30 by editing any of the existing Picture Profiles and choosing SLOG3 as the gamma and SGamut3.Cine as the color space. I have been trying to figure out if there are perceivable differences between shooting the old school way (PP8) and LOG shooting mode + Cine EI. So far in what I can tell there is a minute difference, but I have not done more comprehensive testing.
Thank you. Good info about creating a new Slog-3 profile outside of the Log Shooting setting. I’d be interested to hear if you do any in depth comparisons
Thanks for the video. This is very helpful. Could you tell me when you are grading this video what the IRE level of your face and the softbox behind you measure for your delivered video to RUclips. Or what your preferred skin tone and highlights IRE levels are for your graded videos. It looks great!
Thank you! The brighter side of my face is around 55 IRE. When you say softbox, do you mean the lamp in the back right corner? That's around 75-80 IRE. I make sure I can hold the exposure on the window at around 90 IRE, then bring the key light up until 44-45 IRE on a grey card right where I'm sitting. There is a little LED panel light under the lamp shade and I just adjust that to taste. I use the S-709 LUT in camera and an external monitor
Hey man, thanks for the great video! I Have just one issue: No matter where I change my EI setting, 200EI, 800EI or 3200EI, my recorded video is the same! What im doing wrong??
🤔 That's what it's supposed to do. Cine EI locks you in the base ISO. The EI value only changes the monitor, what you're seeing on the screen. The idea is that you adjust the recorded exposure in post (in your editing software or in Catalyst Browse or Prepare) to match the monitor exposure
Fantastic video. I'm starting to finally wrap my head around EI. Thank you. Any advice on when it's appropriate to switch from L to H base iso? I'm running an FX3 and I'm having a hard time knowing when to switch to H and add NDs.
Thank you. Sony recommends not exceeding the base ISO so if you follow Sony’s guidance, if you need to go higher than 800 you should go ahead and switch to 12800. I don’t think it should be so extreme but I don’t have specific recommendations. I bet you can go to 1600 for example
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for getting back to me. I'm new to EI, so I might be confused, or I'm just not asking this properly. When I'm shooting in Cine EI I'm limited to the base ISOs of 800 and 12800, right? All I can change is my exposure index, which just changes what shows up on the monitor and helps me expose more for highlights or shadows. What I'm confused about is when to switch from the 800 base to the 12800 base. Like if I'm shooting a lowish light scenario where I can't control the lighting and my aperture is already wide open. At what point should I use the higher base ISO and add an ND filter to compensate? Does that make any sense? I know the second base ISO of 12800 isn't as clean as the 800 base. So at what point does switching to 12800 remove more noise than it adds? This is probably an annoyingly specific question, I'm just trying to get an idea of when to switch ISO while shooting cine EI in the wild. Maybe I'm overthinking it and I should just jump up to 12800 when I need more light.
You might be overthinking it. I'd stick with the low base as much as possible and only switch to the high when there just isn't enough light to get the exposure I want. IMO, the 12800 ISO adds a lot of noise reduction to get that "clean" image and thus looks a little soft and plasticky. So, I avoid it unless I absolutely can't get the exposure from the low base.
Can you see if I got this right? So the cine ei mode is similar to previewing a lut on the camera. For example, I make a lut for s log 3 that brings down my shadows and highlights. Then I go and import that lut into the fx30, and when I'm trying to expose my shot for a scene, I can turn on my preview lut to see how my grade will look, but the camera will record an image that's slightly overexposed, because my lut brings down shadows and highlights. Is that similar to what it does with the iso? Like your camera is recording with 800 but you can set to view at 400iso to see how it looks when you crush down the shadows and stuff.
Really insightful video brother! When using Phantom LUTs instead of Rec 709, how much does the IRE value change for skin tones? You have 57-62 for s709 - are you using std+ range of 57 +/- 5?
I'm not sure about skin tones for the Phantom LUTs. According to the website, with the a7SIII Neutral LUT, middle grey falls right at 40 IRE. So that's a little bit lower than the s709 LUT at 43-44 IRE. I think if you wanted to expose for skin tones instead of middle grey, using a +/- 5 range would probably be a good idea, but I don't know what the exact target should be for the Phantom LUT. I bet if you wrote him at his support/contact email, he'd be able to answer
Thanks man for this ! But i have a stupid question, if we expose properly at 800 base iso and 800 EI by adjusting the nd filtre, in order to have the right exposure for the middle grey, and then change the EI to 2500 or 3200 without changing anything else, we should have more information in the highlight or no ? Sorry for my English !
Changing the EI value doesn't alter the image that you're capturing. It just changes the way it looks on your monitor. So if you set you exposure at 800 ISO and 800 EI, then just change the EI to a different value, nothing's going to happen to the image. If you want to maximize the highlight info, set the EI higher than the base then get a proper exposure (with aperture, shutter, or lights). The image you captured will be much darker than what you saw on your monitor so you'll have to adjust it to match in post. The effect of that is you will have maximized the highlight information at the expense of shadow information and noise. Hope that makes sense. Just experiment with it until it clicks for you. It only costs card space (and time)
Thanks for your reply, I asked to early, when I watched your video again it's more clear now. I have to make compromise ! I'am very grateful for your work and the time you take to answer my question. It's very clear thanks to you !
One thing I am not sure about is.. does the clipping point of S-Log3 change when using a monitoring LUT? Your “exposure values in IRE” graphic shows the different IRE values for middle gray and skin… but what about clipping point!? Does it change from 94 IRE with no LUT to something else with the REC709 LUT?
Yes. The clipping point with the S709 LUT is 99 versus 94 with no LUT. I could be wrong, but, if you think about the IRE values of S-Log 3 with no monitor LUT as the "conservative" or "safety" range, then maybe it makes sense. Because if you use the IRE values of S-Log with no monitor LUT to capture in camera, then those values will be expanded in post to match the values of the S709 LUT. Right? Because you're not going to leave the S-log 3 image uncorrected. I don't know, my brain's not working
Ok so let me get this straight. You still have to adjust exposure like normal but if you have to turn the EI up then that means you have a lower exposure giving you more detail in the highlights. But the reverse having to lower the EI meaning you have a brighter image/more exposure means more detail in the shadows? That makes sense to me but i just want to make sure im getting this right.
Have you heard of the exposure method called Expose to the Right or ETTR? Cine EI is a way to do that while monitoring how the exposure WILL look when you adjust it in post
I’m either purchasing the aA6700 or the FX30, its honestly depending on me understanding cine EI. Once I can understand it I can make my choice, so close yet so far lol.
Great breakdown and explanation, while Cine EI could helpful in some cases, I have to imagine it exposes shoots to a lot of risk if some operators don't understand exactly how it works. Seems very easy to make a mistake and come back with ruined footage. Most modern UI/UX philosophy is based on WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) but this is the complete opposite haha. Seems like a simple +1 or +2 ETTR LUT would be a simpler and more easy to comprehend method for achieving a similar end result.
Hey thank you. I think that's why so many "explainer" videos just told people to stick with the base ISO. I've never tried an ETTR LUT, but I'd be interested to try it out and see how it compares
You can... It depends on the scene. Do you want to capture as much dynamic range in the highlights as possible? Then keep it in the base or go a stop or two higher. Usually, outdoors, you can use the base ISO
No, the exposure changes between low and high, but that's the only point at which the exposure changes both in camera and on the monitor. Maybe you just didn't notice the change, but if you watch the section "Cine EI Quick demo" at 09:45, you can see the exposure change between low and high base
Thanks so much for such a well measured, informative and enlightening video on this subject i have seen. Very much like your modest approach. Have subscribed and liked. Thanks again Phillip. Much, much appreciated.
I've never used the Rode NT1 but I've heard great things. Usually a large diaphragm condenser mic (like the NT1) is going to be clearer, more detailed, more natural sounding than a dynamic mic (SM7B) but that might not be the sound that you're going for. I really like the warm and smooth sound of the SM7B though. The SM7b needs a lot of gain though so that's always been a hurdle with that mic whereas the NT1 doesn't. That's something you have to factor into the cost of the SM7B. The NT1 also has ridiculously low self-noise. Lots of advantages for the NT1 but you couldn't go wrong with either if price isn't a factor
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks, this decision is extremely difficult to make but I think I am looking for a clearer more detailed sound, one that does not change my voice too much so I'll likely pick the Rode Nt1, for the Microphone boom arm I think a PSA1 or PSA1+ will be good, ill also need to invest in some room treatment
@@PhillipRPeck I'm also a little afraid that the Rode nt1 kit with the shockmount and popfilter is going to be so big that it will block my vision to my monitor, but I guess you don't know about that either
I can see it being PAL/NTSC because you wouldn't need 1/48 if you're shooting at 25 fps. Otherwise, maybe it came in a firmware update? What version are you on?
In a lot of ways, yes. It has many video/filmmaking features that are still absent from the FX3 and just about matches or exceeds everything the FX3 can do in terms of high speed recording. I haven't used a GH7 personally, but I would imagine that the FX3 still holds the advantage in image quality and dynamic range by virtue of the bigger sensor. It also has a faster readout speed than the GH7. With that said, it's limited to 4K while the GH7 can record 5.7K (also ProRes RAW internally which is badass). The FX3 also comes with the XLR audio handle which may be an advantage depending on your use case. However, Panasonic's new XLR adapter combined with the GH7 provides 32-bit float recording which is certainly nice
I don't know which has better colors as I haven't used the GH7 but that is totally subjective and, IMO, doesn't matter as you can adjust colors just about any way you want. 32-bit float is a nice to have but not a necessity. I just mentioned it as another feature possible on the GH7 that's not on the FX3 (internally). But you can get 24-bit, 48kHz audio from the FX3 which is still professional quality. The GH7 is a whole lot of camera for the money. As you mentioned, you can get a lot alongside the GH7 for the cost of the FX3 body alone. For me, it would come down to overall ecosystem (lenses, other bodies I might want to get in the future). I've owned a GH5S and M43 lenses in the past, and they're still relevant to this day (just got back from a shoot with two GH5's and a GH4) and if I were starting from scratch, I'd definitely give the GH7 a hard look
Let me clear something up for you all, First off exposing to the right meaning over exposing your shot by 1.3 or 1.7 stops, basically is a trick, it's over exposing so your sensor is not recording any dark shadow area's because if it does that it produces noise (NOISE) because of low light.. And the kicker here is one of the things that you do is the cause of noise, which is recording at a higher ISO number above 200 ISO. Basically boosting the signal, which does what? Produces noise. Because basically what your doing is amplifying the digital signal to your sensor to get the scene brighter.. I always say, especially if your shooting indoors with a controlled light situation like using studio lights record at 200 ISO and not have to worry about Noise and not have to do the over expose trick to not record shadows? Well these idiots answer well if you do that then you can't shoot in LOG and recording in LOG that way you will ruin your video image, That is a bunch of BS first off that is NOT TRUE. You can shoot in Sony Slog3 or SLOG3 CineGamut as low as 200 ISO and have a good clean image, and not have to over expose and can still over expose if you like for even less noise.. there is NO reason to shoot at base ISO like 800/2500 and do all that work to make your image look clean just shoot at lower ISO values like 200 ISO which is the cleanest image.. Then they say well you lose Dynamic Range.. Well yes and NO, you only lose 2 stops of over exposing shooting 200 ISO vs 800 ISO, meaning you only lose 2 stops Dynamic range to prevent clipping on brighter scenes such as the sky or something like that.. The at 800 ISO the sony Fx30 only gets 14.6 stops Max that is much as the camera can deliver, but the clean stops which is proven on charts is only 12.7 stops, that means the cleanest image you can get. that is shooting at 800 ISO. When shooting at 200 ISO the max stops you can get is only 12.7 stops, and the clean stops stays at 12.7 meaning your only going to get 12.7 clean stops anyway regardless if you shoot at 800 ISO or 200 ISO, your not gaining any more clean stops in any mode it doesn't matter, so why go though all the effort in shooting at 800 ISO and then over exposing your shot then in post doing the work to bring it down to clean it up, WHY WHY WHY, when you can just shoot at 200 ISO and not have to do all that, And by the way, Shooting at 200 ISO is cleaner then shooting at 800 ISO and over exposing and cleaning it up in post, so it's still cleaner to shoot at 200 ISO rather then doing the 800 ISO over expose trick, so your all fools for doing this, because you gain nothing and lose something because the image is still cleaner at 200 ISO... Your just making more work for yourself for less it's a joke and kind of funny when i watch people do this, it makes me laugh and think what is up with these idiots... Light your scene properly and shoot at 200 ISO and your going to get the cleanest video you ever got... Don't believe me, Gerald Undone did a video to prove this, and using technical charts to show you, that when shooting LOG, you can shoot at lower ISO values.. Here it is... ruclips.net/video/rLG_zlshlSA/видео.html
Set the ISO to either the first base ISO or second base ISO. Then add or reduce light, or an ND filter, or adjust the aperture. That's it. It's not rocket science.
This is BY FAR the best tutorial on Cine EI I've ever seen.
This is unbelievable, it’s like a camera course. This is going to be super helpful.
Thanks, Mark. I learned a lot and I was excited to share!
My goodness Sony like to complicate matters with their cameras! I love the 14/15 stops of DR you can get from them, but they need to look at Blackmagic as an example of how to create a logical, straightforward way of exposing your image and organising your menu settings.
Cine EI is pointless when all you need to do is use a LUT in flexible ISO
This is the best video I’ve ever seen on this. I was so confused as to why I was getting grainy footage when everything looked fine on the screen when filming. It all makes sense now
Thank you! Glad I could help
Only 11k views in 3 months??? This is amazing because this is the first video I have finally come across that explains this topic from the ground up in a clean and organized way.
Phillip - you are thorough and carefully explain everything in a slow and organize manner. I feel like I have actually learned something, which I can not say for a majority of the 'how to' RUclipsrs out there.
Thank you for putting these videos together the way you do. I am so tired of these other guys and gals who just babble on and on and don't really ever get to the point while racking up a hundred-thousand views. I am definitely subscribing to your channel. Thanks!
Thank you! 11k views is pretty good for me... 😢
Excellent. It’s like a complicated math question and I’m bad at math. I’ve been shooting in EI since I got the FX30 I just shoot and expose in the 2 base ISO’s. My footage rarely gets sent back for quality repair but honestly I wish I could understand more of your video due to my mental challenge and not your excellent delivery. Thank you SO much.
I have two channels, and I will like your videos from every channel that I have access on. there's something about you that I love. keep up the good work mate. your video your editing your way to explaining things, every thing is just awesome...
Wow, thank you!
Had to pause at exactly 1:58 to make this comment, i've watched numerous videos on CINE EI but was still abit confused. However you explained it so clearly that i understood within the first 2 minutes of watching.
Sweet! Glad it helped!
Nailed it at 2:00 mark. Perfect summation / use-case
Finally someone who explains and demonstrates how to use Cine EI. Thanks!
thank you so much for this on fuss no self-promoting no crazy introduction, humble, sincere, clear and concise tutorial. amazing. Keep on the good work!
I appreciate that!
Thank you for this video. Still wrapping my head around it all, but I know more than before watching!
Phillip, sir, THANK YOU! Echoing so many of the other comments I see, this is absolutely the best tutorial I’ve seen on what is a confusing subject. Thank you so much for covering so clearly. I finally get it! Having just added an FX6 to my arsenal, it’s just as well I do! Awesome video, thanks again ☺️🙏🏼🎥
Thank you. Much appreciated and glad it helped you
Agree with the comments here, that this is absolutely the definitive guide and far better than other tutorials. I still maintain that there is a cynical quality to Sony's "invention" that's actually common-sensical to experienced filmmakers. (Cine EI is borne of Alistair Chapman's old-timey know-it-all bullying of Sony engineers in the CineAlta division some years ago.) In the elegant simplicity of Blackmagic's menuverse by comparison, it's simply well-known that the dual-sensor ISO has a 1250 ISO switch-point as between the lower and upper base ISOs, so we make our judgments accordingly based on our complex balancing of depth of field (aperture), shutter speed (180-degree rule almost always), and tolerable grain which should mostly be guided by continuity between adjacent shots and their grain profiles. In meh millennial parlance, Cine EI is best summed up by: "OBVIO!" 🙂 Sony/Chapman created a tedious workflow regime that's ultimately motivated by adding a bullet point to their feature lists/branding, pretending a revolution but introducing hardly anything but marketing fodder.
IDK, I kinda like it. I'd love to find out more about this Alistair Chapman history though
And thank you for the compliment!
Honestly you're video is the only video that really helped me wrap my head around this.
This is the best explanation ever!!! Thank you!
I've been searching for a precise and detailed description for Cine EI for days. Your video was the answer to all of my questions. Thank You!
THANK YOU for this. This is the first and only video that has actually helped me to understand Cine EI in an impactful way.
Finally someone who I am able to understand regarding this topic. I've watched a lot of video's with people trying to explain it as simple as possible, but I always miss the comparisons between the different EI levels and a step by step guide. Thank you so much for making this whole topic easier to understand!
Glad it was helpful!
I was thinking the same thing. Most of the videos are done by people who just drone on without really explaining anything. These videos are thoughtful and get to the point.
I have watched 6 different videos on this topic and this is by far the best, showing the why but also exactly how to make the settings in the menu of the FX3 and correcting and comparing the footage in post in Davinci Resolve. Thanks so much
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid. This really made it clear how to use CINE ei.
I am currently using the GH5 and I’m looking to buy the FX3. I’ve never heard of Cine EI before and stumbled upon your video. Despite being from Germany and not speaking perfect English, it was my first time encountering Cine EI, yet I understood almost 100% of what it is and how it works! Incredibly well-explained! You’ve earned yourself a subscriber!
Wow. Much appreciated! The FX3 is great
The best EI explanation video of them all.
Man this is the best cine ei explanation ever. Watching so many videos and never understood it
Thank you! I watched a bunch of videos and never understood it either. I really just had to try it out
He covers the points quick but they make more sense than any other videos I have watched on RUclips
Super helpful, easy to follow video! Thank you!
Wow. Fantastic video for a beginner like myself, thank you for putting so much effort into explaining this in such a digestible way. Literally watched every second and even rewatched segments while testing on my FX3 at the same time.
Awesome to hear!
Best tutorial ever. Thanks a lot for this video Phillip
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful
By far one of the best explainer on Cine EI mode! Keep it up 👍🏼
Thank you
Great….as usual….calm and relaxed. This is why I love your channel ❤
Thanks!
Thanks for this fantastic demonstration Phillip, Cine EI doesn't benefit me in a lot of my work but it has been quite the system to learn for when it's helpful. You're one of the few people who have mentioned the different IRE values when using the 709 lut so big cheers there! Wish I would have had that info early on - would have saved so much time testing footage. This video should go BIG.
Thank you!
Really appreciate you explaining Cine EI in such simple terms. I've tried it a couple times with my FX3, but did not like the work flow. For the massive amount of effort it takes in post, the marginal gains in image quality wasn't worth it to me.
One of the biggest challenges for me was that it required me to constantly be fiddling with the EI level instead of just dialing in an exposure compensation. I'd rather focus on the composition rather than the exposure - let the camera do some of the heavy lifting, right?
Also, since I shoot on multiple Sony cameras, I found it challenging to constantly having to remember which Zebra values go with the different log viewing profiles. Now, I just shoot everything in SLOG3 with Gamma Display Assist and target 41 on the grey card - ez peezee. I've got a video out coming out soon on that exact topic so stay tuned...
Great work as usual!
Thanks for the comment. As long as you have a method that works for you, that's all that matters! Looking forward to seeing your video!
Please share this with me, so target 41 grey will always get your Wb correct?? Im debating using Cine-ei or cine-ei quick??? for a beginner Im not understanding the ISO value on bottom right of touchscreen. I understand ISO and stops of light to stop down with ND filters outside so I can shoot at 24/60/120 FPS always at lowest Lens F-stop. Now im using Sony zeiss 35mm f2.8
best cine ei video ever thank you Phillip.
Holy grail of all the explanations. Thanks
Thanks for this video Phillip! Watched the whole thing. I've been wanting to try CineEI since I picked up the FX30, but I'm quite happy with my Flexible ISO workflow and didn't want to mess up a good thing. You did a great job teaching us what CineEI does and when best to use it though. The tests followed by the editing afterward were money. I feel like I want to replicate the tests on my own just so I finally fully grasp when, and when not to, use CineEI in my workflow. You da best man! Your vibes are super chill too, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much! I hadn't seen many videos that include the editing workflow, which is obviously, half the point! In earlier drafts of the video, I had a couple lines about encouraging people to try it for themselves because that's what I had to do before it made sense and I really understood it
I am with you. Also happy with my Flexible ISO workflow for now...
Ohh man This is gold! thanks a lot for this video and the effort you put in here. Was super helpful
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I particularly enjoyed seeing the toy from the 80's on your desk! I got the same one ;-)
Great demo. I still dont understand the purpose of the EI dial though... If we specifically set the value to either base, and work our exposure from there (controlling it with the iris, shutter speed, ND filter), why would we want to undeexpose or overexpose while creating the illussion of a correct exposure on the screen? And would it be okay just to lock all parameters for the shoot and only expose with the ND filter changing the base (800 - 2500) when necessary? Please correct me if im wrong, its just a bit hard to wrap my head around this shooting approach, altough I clearly see an opportunity of getting the cleanest looking footage out of this...
If you ETTR in a non-Cine EI mode or camera, you're looking at the overexposed image that you're capturing. So you can't really tell how it's going to look when you adjust the exposure. Cine EI allows you to ETTR (or ETTL) and see how the exposure is going to look. That allows you to take full control over your image. How dark to you want the shadows? How bright to you want the highlights? etc. Hopefully that makes sense. Good question and I see that's an area where I didn't explain well enough
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for the reply!!I think I have a better understanding of how it works now... probably still need some hands on experience with it. Yes, thats exactly the problem, everyone just explains the technical part of the cine EI mode; what the dials do, what the values on the screen are, etc... Your video by far is the most detailed I've seen on youtube, with all the resolve examples, diffenent exposures... But this part with monitoring the result is still a bit confusing... I think I can speak of everyone who's never had any experience with film cameras and non-adjustable isos :/ So if you happen to decice to do a second part of this video, rest assured theres an audience for that :) Thanks again!!
@@ValJedi Thanks for the feedback. In earlier drafts of the video, I had a few lines encouraging people to try it out. That's what I had to do before it really made sense!
This is exactly how I've been shooting with it for the last few months and I've been really happy with the images. I think you can shoot this way with success but after watching this video I have a much clearer understanding of how the tool was designed to be used. Nice video Phillip. Just subscribed!
Thanks!
Great explanation, dude!!! I do have one quick question... is there a way for me to custom program a button on my fx3, that allows me to switch from EI to flexible ISO with just a push of a button?
Thanks! I don't have my FX30 anymore so I'm not 100% sure but I don't think there's a way to program a custom button just to recall Flexible ISO or Cine EI. On Sony alpha cameras with a mode dial, you could just setup Custom Profiles but I guess you can't do this either on the FX3/30
Okay so I have a question. Let’s say I shoot an EI of 200 when I’m at a base ISO of 800. I’m simply over exposing by 2 stops, but it’s letting me see how it will look once corrected? Is it that simple or am I missing something?
That's it 👍
Okay thank you! I was having trouble understanding and this video really simplified it for me. Cheers! @@PhillipRPeck
That was so informative! Thank you!
Great explanation. The final part is awesome when we can see the best use for it. So, if I'm shooting a talent with a darker skin at a darker space (like a gym), the 200EI at 800 base ISO might be great to keep info on the skin and shadows. And the opposite might be good for a white model with white clothes in a fashion shoot or with a wedding dress. If i boost the EI, I'll get more info on the white/bright areas, this means more texture and info on the clothes she's using, for example, like a weeding dress full of details).
Thank you. Yeah, I think you captured it in a nutshell.
Really enjoyed this - still learning about my FX30 too. What color checker are you using? I think I’d like to get one and see if it helps my exposure. I always seem to be under exposing.
Thank you! It's the Datacolor SpyderCHECKR 24
@@PhillipRPeck thanks so much!
If you just follow the ISO dynamic range chart and use Flexible ISO, you will get the same results without having to readjust our exposure in post, right? Like, if I know my base is 800 and I want more detail in the shadows and I don't have a bright window I need to preserve, I can go down to 200 ISO (for example) and expose for middle gray right then and there and what you see on the screen is what you get, right? THIS VIDEO IS SO HELPFUL I'm just wrapping my head around why someone wouldn't just use fixable ISO. I GUSS, and correct me if I'm wrong... Cine EI is just a safety net for people that aren't sure how ISO is actually limiting dynamic range in the lows and highs when they adjust it? Does that sound accurate? THANKS! Flexible ISO does switch gain stages from low to hi when it hits 2500 though, right? Thanks again haha.
I'd like to do a video on this concept as well. You should get very similar, if not the same results, if you expose as you describe using middle grey and ISO, but I'd like to do a comparison just to check it out.
I guess Sony's rationale is that the base ISO(s) will give you the best results rather than adjusting the actual ISO value...
And yes, flexible ISO will switch from Low to High at 800 and 2500!
Thanks for the comment and thanks for reminding me I need to try this out for myself
This was fantastic. Thank you.
Thank you for this, I'm switching from a6400 to FX30, haven't shot anything yet, BUT this is quite puzzling, your analogy of the old film made sense to me, but the actual in practice somehow confused me. So technically, if I am to shoot during daytime snowy outdoor, I'm better off at 3200, which is ultra counter-intuitive?! Do I have this right?
Yes, in theory, but there is still a penalty for pushing the ISO past a certain point. Even at the high base ISO of 2500, the image is noticeably noisier and less detailed than the low base ISO of 800. In your scenario, if you want to maximize highlight detail, you could push it a stop or two above 800, but you want to make sure that you're not pushing it too far and introducing too much noise. IMO, 3200 is too noisy. I'd try 1000 and 1250 but I wouldn't push it further. Even Sony doesn't recommend pushing the EI value above the base because they want to keep the noise levels down.
I'd recommend taking a look at the chart that Sony provides
helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/contents/TP1000756717.html
which shows the stops of latitude at all the different EI values to help you wrap your head around what's happening. And take some test shots and see for yourself.
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for the reply! Make sense, I guess I just need to go out and try it 😅 . I'm so used to the 'traditional' way The Ei kinda sound super alien and intimidating. Plus I don't have much XP with slog-3... I'm a Cine guy :) Great Channel you have! You have a new sub!
Excellent explanation and very thorough. FYI, although SONY removed the picture profile for SLOG3/SGamut3.Cine (PP8), you can still record SLOG3 outside of Cine EI in the FX3/FX30 by editing any of the existing Picture Profiles and choosing SLOG3 as the gamma and SGamut3.Cine as the color space. I have been trying to figure out if there are perceivable differences between shooting the old school way (PP8) and LOG shooting mode + Cine EI. So far in what I can tell there is a minute difference, but I have not done more comprehensive testing.
Thank you. Good info about creating a new Slog-3 profile outside of the Log Shooting setting. I’d be interested to hear if you do any in depth comparisons
this helped so much! thank you man
Thanks for the video. This is very helpful. Could you tell me when you are grading this video what the IRE level of your face and the softbox behind you measure for your delivered video to RUclips. Or what your preferred skin tone and highlights IRE levels are for your graded videos. It looks great!
Thank you! The brighter side of my face is around 55 IRE. When you say softbox, do you mean the lamp in the back right corner? That's around 75-80 IRE.
I make sure I can hold the exposure on the window at around 90 IRE, then bring the key light up until 44-45 IRE on a grey card right where I'm sitting. There is a little LED panel light under the lamp shade and I just adjust that to taste. I use the S-709 LUT in camera and an external monitor
@@PhillipRPeck thank you!
Sir you are a blessing thank u
excellent information man! really helpful!
Wow this was a great informative tutorial! What picture profile would you recommend using when shooting in cine ei?
S-Log 3! That's the only option
VERY helpful!!! thank you.
Hey man, thanks for the great video! I Have just one issue: No matter where I change my EI setting, 200EI, 800EI or 3200EI, my recorded video is the same! What im doing wrong??
🤔 That's what it's supposed to do. Cine EI locks you in the base ISO. The EI value only changes the monitor, what you're seeing on the screen. The idea is that you adjust the recorded exposure in post (in your editing software or in Catalyst Browse or Prepare) to match the monitor exposure
Today I learned that the mode is called Cine EI not Cine El.
amazing video, thank you!
Fantastic video. I'm starting to finally wrap my head around EI. Thank you.
Any advice on when it's appropriate to switch from L to H base iso? I'm running an FX3 and I'm having a hard time knowing when to switch to H and add NDs.
Thank you. Sony recommends not exceeding the base ISO so if you follow Sony’s guidance, if you need to go higher than 800 you should go ahead and switch to 12800.
I don’t think it should be so extreme but I don’t have specific recommendations. I bet you can go to 1600 for example
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks for getting back to me. I'm new to EI, so I might be confused, or I'm just not asking this properly.
When I'm shooting in Cine EI I'm limited to the base ISOs of 800 and 12800, right? All I can change is my exposure index, which just changes what shows up on the monitor and helps me expose more for highlights or shadows.
What I'm confused about is when to switch from the 800 base to the 12800 base. Like if I'm shooting a lowish light scenario where I can't control the lighting and my aperture is already wide open. At what point should I use the higher base ISO and add an ND filter to compensate? Does that make any sense? I know the second base ISO of 12800 isn't as clean as the 800 base. So at what point does switching to 12800 remove more noise than it adds?
This is probably an annoyingly specific question, I'm just trying to get an idea of when to switch ISO while shooting cine EI in the wild. Maybe I'm overthinking it and I should just jump up to 12800 when I need more light.
You might be overthinking it. I'd stick with the low base as much as possible and only switch to the high when there just isn't enough light to get the exposure I want. IMO, the 12800 ISO adds a lot of noise reduction to get that "clean" image and thus looks a little soft and plasticky. So, I avoid it unless I absolutely can't get the exposure from the low base.
That makes sense. 800 is the safe bet if I can make it work. I might run some tests to see how far I can push it.
Thanks again for the response.
Great video. Thank you for the effort you put into this.
Thank you!
Great video!
Can you see if I got this right?
So the cine ei mode is similar to previewing a lut on the camera.
For example, I make a lut for s log 3 that brings down my shadows and highlights.
Then I go and import that lut into the fx30, and when I'm trying to expose my shot for a scene, I can turn on my preview lut to see how my grade will look, but the camera will record an image that's slightly overexposed, because my lut brings down shadows and highlights.
Is that similar to what it does with the iso?
Like your camera is recording with 800 but you can set to view at 400iso to see how it looks when you crush down the shadows and stuff.
Yeah, that's pretty much it👌
Really insightful video brother! When using Phantom LUTs instead of Rec 709, how much does the IRE value change for skin tones? You have 57-62 for s709 - are you using std+ range of 57 +/- 5?
I'm not sure about skin tones for the Phantom LUTs. According to the website, with the a7SIII Neutral LUT, middle grey falls right at 40 IRE. So that's a little bit lower than the s709 LUT at 43-44 IRE.
I think if you wanted to expose for skin tones instead of middle grey, using a +/- 5 range would probably be a good idea, but I don't know what the exact target should be for the Phantom LUT. I bet if you wrote him at his support/contact email, he'd be able to answer
Thanks man for this ! But i have a stupid question, if we expose properly at 800 base iso and 800 EI by adjusting the nd filtre, in order to have the right exposure for the middle grey, and then change the EI to 2500 or 3200 without changing anything else, we should have more information in the highlight or no ?
Sorry for my English !
Changing the EI value doesn't alter the image that you're capturing. It just changes the way it looks on your monitor. So if you set you exposure at 800 ISO and 800 EI, then just change the EI to a different value, nothing's going to happen to the image.
If you want to maximize the highlight info, set the EI higher than the base then get a proper exposure (with aperture, shutter, or lights).
The image you captured will be much darker than what you saw on your monitor so you'll have to adjust it to match in post. The effect of that is you will have maximized the highlight information at the expense of shadow information and noise.
Hope that makes sense. Just experiment with it until it clicks for you. It only costs card space (and time)
Thanks for your reply, I asked to early, when I watched your video again it's more clear now.
I have to make compromise !
I'am very grateful for your work and the time you take to answer my question.
It's very clear thanks to you !
One thing I am not sure about is.. does the clipping point of S-Log3 change when using a monitoring LUT? Your “exposure values in IRE” graphic shows the different IRE values for middle gray and skin… but what about clipping point!? Does it change from 94 IRE with no LUT to something else with the REC709 LUT?
Yes. The clipping point with the S709 LUT is 99 versus 94 with no LUT. I could be wrong, but, if you think about the IRE values of S-Log 3 with no monitor LUT as the "conservative" or "safety" range, then maybe it makes sense. Because if you use the IRE values of S-Log with no monitor LUT to capture in camera, then those values will be expanded in post to match the values of the S709 LUT. Right? Because you're not going to leave the S-log 3 image uncorrected. I don't know, my brain's not working
Ok so let me get this straight. You still have to adjust exposure like normal but if you have to turn the EI up then that means you have a lower exposure giving you more detail in the highlights. But the reverse having to lower the EI meaning you have a brighter image/more exposure means more detail in the shadows? That makes sense to me but i just want to make sure im getting this right.
Yes!
@@PhillipRPeck alright! Thank you so much.
Great Channel !
Hi. May I know the reason why you are changing EI value if the actual recorded exposure doesn't change?
Have you heard of the exposure method called Expose to the Right or ETTR? Cine EI is a way to do that while monitoring how the exposure WILL look when you adjust it in post
Thanks. When I lower the EI ISO to for example 320 EI. I get more information in the shadows. Does that also mean I reduce the noise in the shadows?
Yes. This is the number one benefit of lowering the ISO or lowering the EI value, you get much lower noise
@@PhillipRPeck thanks
sony should pay you 4 dis thank you sir
That would be nice
Legend! Cheers fella 🤙
I’m either purchasing the aA6700 or the FX30, its honestly depending on me understanding cine EI. Once I can understand it I can make my choice, so close yet so far lol.
Sorry I wasn't able to help you understand
Great breakdown and explanation, while Cine EI could helpful in some cases, I have to imagine it exposes shoots to a lot of risk if some operators don't understand exactly how it works. Seems very easy to make a mistake and come back with ruined footage. Most modern UI/UX philosophy is based on WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) but this is the complete opposite haha. Seems like a simple +1 or +2 ETTR LUT would be a simpler and more easy to comprehend method for achieving a similar end result.
Hey thank you. I think that's why so many "explainer" videos just told people to stick with the base ISO. I've never tried an ETTR LUT, but I'd be interested to try it out and see how it compares
Thank you
so using my FX3 for outdoor sunlight using a nd-16 filter, should i stay in Cine-ei quick so I can get the iso below 800 base??
You can... It depends on the scene. Do you want to capture as much dynamic range in the highlights as possible? Then keep it in the base or go a stop or two higher. Usually, outdoors, you can use the base ISO
how i can use cine ei in slog 3 with the asist monitor
so if I shoot with flexible ISO instead of cine EI, does my dynamic range gets affected?
No
Super wow 🎉🎉🎉
i did not understand that you had the same shutter & iris in low base and high base but the exposure remained the same
No, the exposure changes between low and high, but that's the only point at which the exposure changes both in camera and on the monitor. Maybe you just didn't notice the change, but if you watch the section "Cine EI Quick demo" at 09:45, you can see the exposure change between low and high base
Thanks so much for such a well measured, informative and enlightening video on this subject i have seen.
Very much like your modest approach.
Have subscribed and liked.
Thanks again Phillip. Much, much appreciated.
I know this is off topic, but when comparing the Shure sm7b and the Rode nt1 4th gen, which do you think sound better?
I've never used the Rode NT1 but I've heard great things. Usually a large diaphragm condenser mic (like the NT1) is going to be clearer, more detailed, more natural sounding than a dynamic mic (SM7B) but that might not be the sound that you're going for. I really like the warm and smooth sound of the SM7B though.
The SM7b needs a lot of gain though so that's always been a hurdle with that mic whereas the NT1 doesn't. That's something you have to factor into the cost of the SM7B. The NT1 also has ridiculously low self-noise.
Lots of advantages for the NT1 but you couldn't go wrong with either if price isn't a factor
@@PhillipRPeck Thanks, this decision is extremely difficult to make but I think I am looking for a clearer more detailed sound, one that does not change my voice too much so I'll likely pick the Rode Nt1, for the Microphone boom arm I think a PSA1 or PSA1+ will be good, ill also need to invest in some room treatment
@@PhillipRPeck I'm also a little afraid that the Rode nt1 kit with the shockmount and popfilter is going to be so big that it will block my vision to my monitor, but I guess you don't know about that either
Yeah, thats definitely a thing to be aware of
what grey card is that?
DataColor. I think I got it from Amazon. Wasn't too expensive
What a fucking great explanation, thank you!
Great vid but until they fix the ability to record externally and internally with CineEI I won’t use it.
What happens when you try to record externally?
@@PhillipRPeck you can’t simultaneously record to both type A cards and the ninja. I have to use flexible ISO. In the FX3.
You should watch my video about whether Cine EI is pointless. You can just shoot in an equivalent ISO and get the same result as Cine EI
@@PhillipRPeck lol yeah i'm fully aware, I don't care fo rCine EI personally. I just use the base ISOs.
how did you set the shutter to 1/48?
Huh, interesting. Looks like you need to be in either XAVC HS or XAVC S-I. Doesn't seem to work if you're in XAVC S
@@PhillipRPeck
no, unfortunately this is not available in either XAVC HS or XAVC S-I. Maybe it's a PAL/NSTC thing, but also not.
@@PhillipRPeck I thought fx3 didn't have a 180 degree rule. Just like the Panasonic gh5/6... But somehow you managed to set it to 1/48
I can see it being PAL/NTSC because you wouldn't need 1/48 if you're shooting at 25 fps. Otherwise, maybe it came in a firmware update? What version are you on?
@@PhillipRPeck FX3 v4.0
Is Panasonic GH7 better than Sony fX3?
In a lot of ways, yes. It has many video/filmmaking features that are still absent from the FX3 and just about matches or exceeds everything the FX3 can do in terms of high speed recording.
I haven't used a GH7 personally, but I would imagine that the FX3 still holds the advantage in image quality and dynamic range by virtue of the bigger sensor. It also has a faster readout speed than the GH7. With that said, it's limited to 4K while the GH7 can record 5.7K (also ProRes RAW internally which is badass).
The FX3 also comes with the XLR audio handle which may be an advantage depending on your use case. However, Panasonic's new XLR adapter combined with the GH7 provides 32-bit float recording which is certainly nice
@@PhillipRPeckif you could buy Gh7 with kit lens and XLR adapter same price as FX3 body which one would go for !
@@PhillipRPeck32 bit audio is big deal?
@@PhillipRPeckwhich has better colours
I don't know which has better colors as I haven't used the GH7 but that is totally subjective and, IMO, doesn't matter as you can adjust colors just about any way you want.
32-bit float is a nice to have but not a necessity. I just mentioned it as another feature possible on the GH7 that's not on the FX3 (internally). But you can get 24-bit, 48kHz audio from the FX3 which is still professional quality.
The GH7 is a whole lot of camera for the money. As you mentioned, you can get a lot alongside the GH7 for the cost of the FX3 body alone. For me, it would come down to overall ecosystem (lenses, other bodies I might want to get in the future). I've owned a GH5S and M43 lenses in the past, and they're still relevant to this day (just got back from a shoot with two GH5's and a GH4) and if I were starting from scratch, I'd definitely give the GH7 a hard look
tanx
Let me clear something up for you all, First off exposing to the right meaning over exposing your shot by 1.3 or 1.7 stops, basically is a trick, it's over exposing so your sensor is not recording any dark shadow area's because if it does that it produces noise (NOISE) because of low light..
And the kicker here is one of the things that you do is the cause of noise, which is recording at a higher ISO number above 200 ISO. Basically boosting the signal, which does what? Produces noise.
Because basically what your doing is amplifying the digital signal to your sensor to get the scene brighter..
I always say, especially if your shooting indoors with a controlled light situation like using studio lights record at 200 ISO and not have to worry about Noise and not have to do the over expose trick to not record shadows?
Well these idiots answer well if you do that then you can't shoot in LOG and recording in LOG that way you will ruin your video image, That is a bunch of BS first off that is NOT TRUE.
You can shoot in Sony Slog3 or SLOG3 CineGamut as low as 200 ISO and have a good clean image, and not have to over expose and can still over expose if you like for even less noise..
there is NO reason to shoot at base ISO like 800/2500 and do all that work to make your image look clean just shoot at lower ISO values like 200 ISO which is the cleanest image..
Then they say well you lose Dynamic Range..
Well yes and NO, you only lose 2 stops of over exposing shooting 200 ISO vs 800 ISO, meaning you only lose 2 stops Dynamic range to prevent clipping on brighter scenes such as the sky or something like that..
The at 800 ISO the sony Fx30 only gets 14.6 stops Max that is much as the camera can deliver, but the clean stops which is proven on charts is only 12.7 stops, that means the cleanest image you can get. that is shooting at 800 ISO.
When shooting at 200 ISO the max stops you can get is only 12.7 stops, and the clean stops stays at 12.7 meaning your only going to get 12.7 clean stops anyway regardless if you shoot at 800 ISO or 200 ISO, your not gaining any more clean stops in any mode it doesn't matter, so why go though all the effort in shooting at 800 ISO and then over exposing your shot then in post doing the work to bring it down to clean it up, WHY WHY WHY, when you can just shoot at 200 ISO and not have to do all that, And by the way,
Shooting at 200 ISO is cleaner then shooting at 800 ISO and over exposing and cleaning it up in post, so it's still cleaner to shoot at 200 ISO rather then doing the 800 ISO over expose trick, so your all fools for doing this, because you gain nothing and lose something because the image is still cleaner at 200 ISO...
Your just making more work for yourself for less it's a joke and kind of funny when i watch people do this, it makes me laugh and think what is up with these idiots...
Light your scene properly and shoot at 200 ISO and your going to get the cleanest video you ever got...
Don't believe me, Gerald Undone did a video to prove this, and using technical charts to show you, that when shooting LOG, you can shoot at lower ISO values.. Here it is...
ruclips.net/video/rLG_zlshlSA/видео.html
Thanks for the video idea
But not everyone can just bring in lights
@@Chris-ey7zy I believe he is saying even without lights rather underexpose and brighten in post. But hey I'm a noob so don't listen to me
Don’t know why 3200 doesn’t have a true black and now contrast
It is just a tool to precisely underexpose or overexpose SLog3 with a fancy name.
Set the ISO to either the first base ISO or second base ISO. Then add or reduce light, or an ND filter, or adjust the aperture. That's it. It's not rocket science.
Cool
Grazie👏👏👏🎬🪐
Sony is just lazy. You will spend half your day worried about the camera setting instead of focusing on your shoot and framing.