OASE CANISTER FILTER
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2023
- OASE CANISTER FILTER REVIEW AND SET UP! In this video I go into detail about the Oase canister. This is truly a premium product with really great features that make your life 10 times easier when it comes to filter maintenance. Personally I would never set up an aquarium without one of these filters now even if it’s a little more money. Enjoy the video and thank you for watching.
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Huge tip here for anyone getting one for the first time. Make sure you have plumber’s silicone grease when you buy this. Apply the grease to the rubber gaskets. There’s one on the lid and one underneath the pre-filter top. What I noticed is the gaskets will allow air to suck through without it and your impeller will start to make grinding noises. It saves a lot of headache
Same problem popped up for me on some old eheim 2228 :)
These are great filters, I have run a Biomaster 600 for the last year. You described the water flow through the filter a little incorrectly though. The water enters the pre-filter chamber first, then travels through the pre-filter sponges and up the internal tube with holes in it. It then travels down the heater cavity to the bottom of the filter, and then travels from the bottom of the filter up through all the main filter media until it reaches the top and is returned to the aquarium. I clean my pre-filters every 2 weeks and the main filter canister media once every 6-9 months. I use the blue 45ppi pre-filter sponges and always have a spare set in operation to make pre-filter cleaning that bit easier and quicker. This is the best (in terms of ease of maintenance) external filter I've owned, better/easier than the Fluval and Eheim externals I've run.
That pre-filter feature is awesome!
Nice presentation. Thank you for sharing.
I always remove the heater completely and set it aside before taking the lid or hoses off. That being said I wish my 600 had a more forceful motor. My older AquaClear hang on back filters were more efficient, more powerful and much quicker to clean.
Yeah but they are really ugly
many people are saying about air trapped in the head and making noise. What's your advice
Gotta get myself one and I think it was 4 + years ago I said it 1st and so many times since then. I would throw away the plastic media and replace it with MATRIX & Substrat PRO . My only question is before you start servicing the filter when you unplug the pump and heater , how long before the heater is safe to be removed carefully ? I have always wondered what the best way to protect it since I have exposed a heater once briefly and it is something you never forget
OK so when I take the intake and the outlet or right side of filter off with the hoses will the aquarium water continue to flow water out? Do I need shut off valves when removing the top parts of the filter? That is the one unclear thing after all these videos showing it off.
No, it blocks them off when you remove the inlet/outlet part. I just put a small towel under to catch a few drips but the hoses stay filled with water.
@@kiteless1 Thanks when I first got it I wasn't sure and wanted to check before my first cleaning. Its so far been a really good filter for me.
is it me or most people put media and sponges upside down ... the mechanical filtration should go in first at the bottom not on top .
Nah it's not just you. Even though it's Italian made with German engineering, I think it was made by people whove never owned a canister filter or no how the water flows. Also they use wrong ppi sponges in wrong order ( pores per square inch) and wrong media( that media is made for a moving bed not tray) lower the ppi number the bigger the pours are( catch big muck) higer number ( catch finer muck) represented by different colors. What i don't understand there are 2 blue sponges prefilter and tray that have different ppi. eg prefilter light blue is 45ppi..in tray light blue is 20ppi ( weird) you can buy other ppi prefilter sponges orange 30ppi, blue 45ppi and black 60ppi black only which is infused with carbon. To get proper nutrifying cycle it's suppose to be mechanical sponges- course, med, fine( fine- filter floss) then biological, and chemical eg carbon or purigen ( optional) and out to tank. The way Oase has it: water flows through med 45ppi sponge (prefilter), then bottom tray with biologicc media, then course 20ppi sponges, then 30ppi sponge and out to tank. well made though.. and prefilter is game changer. I have my Oase 250 themo set in this order: on intake i added ultra course sponge, then prefilter the courses prefilter they make 30ppi orange, then in bottom tray i used orange sponge that was in small top tray 30ppi orange in bottom tray with filter wadding in same tray, then other trays biological Seachem matrix, then in small tray Seachem purigen bag
That’s different biological media that doesn’t get clogged like matrix. The turbulence moves it around at the bottom of the filter. If you use a fine porous media, then it needs fine filter pad before it and the fine filter pad clogs in 2 weeks and the filter looses flow.
I'd rather drive a reliable Honda instead of a Cadillac these days but totally get the analogy
aree you r/ rubber duckl
Bro do u have a crypto i can buy.
Yes
I got two of those, I hate it! constantly air locking!!! BAD PRODUCT! Avoid at all cost!
U needed to put silicone grease on the rubber seals
@the_DOS I did, and also drilled more holes in the prefilter tube and it's still the same. But I've finally fixed it. I've replaced it with a different filter and no more problems.