Thank you for explaining in detail how to not flood the cabinet after cleaning the prefilter and how to properly prime the pump. I have struggled with this one aspect of the biomaster for 3 years!!! I like your suggestion of popping a drink while getting the remaining bubbles out😂
Just bought this filter and I was wondering about this process which I will have to do in a couple of weeks,you have explained how to do it in a thorough and easy to understand format and I'm now confident that I'll have no problems doing it myself,thank you.
Thank you for doing this video. I have learned a lot from you. What I have done is buy a second set of sponges and rotate them. I can now change out my prefilter in about 5 minutes.
This was fantastic, solved my issues with a filter that had been shipped and didn't work when started up--valve flaps were not installed correctly. Oase should have you build them a library of filter servicing videos!
This canister has one big issue. After I used it for just over a year, the internal rubber sealing at the rotatable inlet / outlet connector started to give way and water in the canister started to leak out. The more you rotate the inlet/outlet connector, the more the wear and tear of the rubble sealing.
@@kbkck I remember Oase had an issue with the seals when filters with higher temperatures of water the seals would dry out very quick so recommend all seals were regularly coated in food grade lubricant especially the seal on the internal thermostat if it was being used.
Thank you Amber 🙏🏻 Tbf there’s really no need to actually remove the inflow/outflow head just to clean the prefilter. As long as it’s locked off then your good to go 🤙🏻.
Thanks Andy ✊🏻 The beauty with sponges are they last a long time and can be rinsed numerous times without degradation. I would look at replacing sponges when they shrink and lose their shape, if they don’t fit the trays snuggly then dirty water can bypass and just head back into the aquarium.
The pipe is only thin plastic, use a wood drill bit (as they have a sharp tip) and drill away, just make sure you wear decent gloves and eye protection 😛
The rattle is normally the impeller wobbling as it’s not sufficiently surrounded by water and air is still being sucked out of the prefilter chamber. Prime the filter as much as you can then start the motor, slightly tilt the whole canister backwards, so the front is off the floor about 1”, it doesn’t need much, settle the canister back down then tilt it forward the same. Complete the above slowly a few times and you’ll find the air finds its way out through the outflow.
I use the Co2 art inline diffuser but a bit different from the rest. These again mean it’s another less piece of equipment in the tank which offers a clean view but you will get ‘sprite’ water with so many micro Co2 bubbles circulating. I have nano tanks with simple intank diffusers from Twinstar or Aquario as I tend to use HOB or internal filters. I’ll do a video on my set ups 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
All good, still going strong, we have a 250 and 350 on different scapes and they’re solid filters. The 350 has been running 18 months non stop and the 250 close to 3 years.
Hi, This is the perfect video I was looking for because I just bought 250 themo.● At the end, do you turn the heater on at the same time as powerhead? Reason for asking cause I saw on a forum someone said they fused their trays together. I'm guessing he didn't let filter fill up with water before hand. So what stage do I turn heater on? thanks.
I initiate the power head and leave it for a couple of minutes as the Biomaster is a bugger for holding air bubbles sometimes. Once most bubbles are out I tilt the unit ever so slightly forward and backwards, lifting it about half an inch each tilt and you’ll find you’ll get rid of all remaining air then I finally turn the heater on.
Hi mate, sorry to bother you again. Can I please ask you about pre-filter?● Can you give me a step by step precedure on what you do before and after removing prefilter? Because I'm not sure if you just lock hoses and then unlock prefilter, clean it and just insert prefilter back, lock it and then unlock hoses and that it. I asume there would still be water in canister. Or do you have turn every thing off then take out prefilter, after you put it back do you have to prime it?
@@urbansk8r231 it’s never a problem, I’d rather help than have your floor flooded 👍🏻. 1. Heater off 2. 5 mins or so later pump unplugged. 3. Unlock and lift off the hose head slightly as pressure (gravity) will still be in the canister. 4. Unlock pre-filter, lift it up a few millimetres to allow pressure to balance and minimise water leaking then slowly remove. 5. Transfer pre-filter canister into a jug next to man canister housing. 6. Clean pre-filter sponges in sink etc. 7. Slide pre-filter back in main canister housing and lock up. 8. Replace hose head and lock up. 9. Prime filter and top up aquarium.
Thanks for the tutorial, it went flawlessly after watching your video.
Beautiful tank! I just got the 250 so appreciate the video
Thank you for explaining in detail how to not flood the cabinet after cleaning the prefilter and how to properly prime the pump. I have struggled with this one aspect of the biomaster for 3 years!!! I like your suggestion of popping a drink while getting the remaining bubbles out😂
Just bought this filter and I was wondering about this process which I will have to do in a couple of weeks,you have explained how to do it in a thorough and easy to understand format and I'm now confident that I'll have no problems doing it myself,thank you.
I never take off the inlet and outlet part. I just unlock it and when I am ready I lock it again.
Thank you pleasantly and easily explained to us who need a little reassurance 😀
Thank you for doing this video. I have learned a lot from you. What I have done is buy a second set of sponges and rotate them. I can now change out my prefilter in about 5 minutes.
Thank you Fred 🙏🏻 , great call on the spare sponges, swap them out, get the filter running and do the dirty work later.
Great video. I have been spilling a lot of water doing the pre filters . That will all stop now.
Brilliant video, just bought the 350 yesterday, thanks for showing us this
This was fantastic, solved my issues with a filter that had been shipped and didn't work when started up--valve flaps were not installed correctly. Oase should have you build them a library of filter servicing videos!
🤣🤣🤣 if they pay me I may even put a posh voice on 🤣🤣🤣
This canister has one big issue. After I used it for just over a year, the internal rubber sealing at the rotatable inlet / outlet connector started to give way and water in the canister started to leak out.
The more you rotate the inlet/outlet connector, the more the wear and tear of the rubble sealing.
@@kbkck I remember Oase had an issue with the seals when filters with higher temperatures of water the seals would dry out very quick so recommend all seals were regularly coated in food grade lubricant especially the seal on the internal thermostat if it was being used.
Great cleaning tips! I was not even aware that the intake and outtake hose cap can be removed…
Thank you Amber 🙏🏻
Tbf there’s really no need to actually remove the inflow/outflow head just to clean the prefilter. As long as it’s locked off then your good to go 🤙🏻.
Top vid. Well done
How often should you change the sponges for new ones awesome information thanks myn runs my 6 foot saltwater tank does awesome job
Thanks Andy ✊🏻
The beauty with sponges are they last a long time and can be rinsed numerous times without degradation.
I would look at replacing sponges when they shrink and lose their shape, if they don’t fit the trays snuggly then dirty water can bypass and just head back into the aquarium.
@@slinkyscapes8530 cheers mate
Good video, I'm curious about the red pressured cylinder behind the filter box. What's its function?
Thanks Gel 👍🏻
It’s a fire extinguisher, supplies my aquarium with Co2 🤙🏻
Thank's for this video!
Just a question. Which type of valve is, on filter exit?
Thanks
Just the standard Oase modular valve .
I just received my oase today I got the 600 how did u get the holes drilled in the tub to put the sponges on
The pipe is only thin plastic, use a wood drill bit (as they have a sharp tip) and drill away, just make sure you wear decent gloves and eye protection 😛
When I do all that myn rattles and it's a nightmare to get it started again I dread when I have to clean myn out
The rattle is normally the impeller wobbling as it’s not sufficiently surrounded by water and air is still being sucked out of the prefilter chamber. Prime the filter as much as you can then start the motor, slightly tilt the whole canister backwards, so the front is off the floor about 1”, it doesn’t need much, settle the canister back down then tilt it forward the same.
Complete the above slowly a few times and you’ll find the air finds its way out through the outflow.
How to do set your co2 up on planted tanks ?
I use the Co2 art inline diffuser but a bit different from the rest.
These again mean it’s another less piece of equipment in the tank which offers a clean view but you will get ‘sprite’ water with so many micro Co2 bubbles circulating.
I have nano tanks with simple intank diffusers from Twinstar or Aquario as I tend to use HOB or internal filters.
I’ll do a video on my set ups 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Hello
How is the filter over the years? Not broken?
All good, still going strong, we have a 250 and 350 on different scapes and they’re solid filters.
The 350 has been running 18 months non stop and the 250 close to 3 years.
thanks for the answer@@slinkyscapes8530
Hi, This is the perfect video I was looking for because I just bought 250 themo.● At the end, do you turn the heater on at the same time as powerhead? Reason for asking cause I saw on a forum someone said they fused their trays together. I'm guessing he didn't let filter fill up with water before hand. So what stage do I turn heater on? thanks.
I initiate the power head and leave it for a couple of minutes as the Biomaster is a bugger for holding air bubbles sometimes.
Once most bubbles are out I tilt the unit ever so slightly forward and backwards, lifting it about half an inch each tilt and you’ll find you’ll get rid of all remaining air then I finally turn the heater on.
@@slinkyscapes8530 Thanks
Hi mate, sorry to bother you again. Can I please ask you about pre-filter?● Can you give me a step by step precedure on what you do before and after removing prefilter? Because I'm not sure if you just lock hoses and then unlock prefilter, clean it and just insert prefilter back, lock it and then unlock hoses and that it. I asume there would still be water in canister. Or do you have turn every thing off then take out prefilter, after you put it back do you have to prime it?
@@urbansk8r231 it’s never a problem, I’d rather help than have your floor flooded 👍🏻.
1. Heater off
2. 5 mins or so later pump unplugged.
3. Unlock and lift off the hose head slightly as pressure (gravity) will still be in the canister.
4. Unlock pre-filter, lift it up a few millimetres to allow pressure to balance and minimise water leaking then slowly remove.
5. Transfer pre-filter canister into a jug next to man canister housing.
6. Clean pre-filter sponges in sink etc.
7. Slide pre-filter back in main canister housing and lock up.
8. Replace hose head and lock up.
9. Prime filter and top up aquarium.
@@slinkyscapes8530 Means a lot mate, Thanks