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Chinese diesel heater Don't make this big mistake!
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- Опубликовано: 9 дек 2022
- after installing a chinese diesel heater i made a couple of installation mistake. don't fall in to the same trap as i did !.
please watch and hopefill learn,so hopefully you won't do the same.
The main reason for using so much fuel is that you've got the unit outside and so drawing in freezing cold air into the heating unit. Put the heater inside and just have the exhaust outlet outside. These units are designed to be used inside.
You must have inlet and exhaust on outside for combustion camber, only heater inside which drag air from in room and pushing hot air out in room.
@peggenlejoncar9529 I disagree. My oil fired domestic central heating boiler for instance draws its air from inside my house and exhausts it outside. I think that they all work like this, they do in the UK anyway.
I'm not quite sure why you don't install the pump vertically or 90°....45° is the minimum not the optimum.
Then you get fumes going inside throught the air intake when get e6 error and it shuts off
@@snipersnightmare As I said previously all domestic oil fried boilers that I know of draw air from inside and only the exhaust is exited outdoors. They're designed to fail safe.
The guru for Chinese heaters is John McK 47. His videos are a must watch if you have problems. He says you can have the pump vertical but not upside down. Flat out you'll use 360ml per hour.
Not many people admit or show their mistakes, hat's off to you.
It's the sign of a wise person
Recirculate the air from inside . Fit another vent so it can draw air from the room back through the heater . Warming warm air then 👍
what size hose did you use for the inlet? Its not 3 inches like the outlet.
Bought one of these things 2 years ago,
Not rocket science to set up ,
Worked well ,heated my small shed very well.
Then i moved it go another part of the shed ,
ironically because the exhaust was near the door, and i thought I might gas myself.
Long story short,
Because I'd already set it up and ran it , I just undid the exhaust pipe , ,
and fed it through the wall from the outside ,
Then I connected it to the heater,
and went away to finish the job the next day,
Totally forgot to tighten the clamp on the pipe and started running the heater.
Over the next few days
I started getting very tired , then I started getting dizzy and forgetful,,
Then about 3 weeks after I first fitted the heater
I went to bed one night ,and woke up in A and E, after having a massive fit in my sleep.
I've since been told im epileptic,
Just a simple mistake, my fault totally, not blaming anyone but myself,
Nearly cost me my life.
Take care .
Right think safety even over heat.too many die from shortcuts.
Thanks for the posting mate and sorry to hear your troubles - your post could save someone else [or their family] serious grief.
One thing absobloodylutely essential for everyone who has any bit of equipment where combustion is involved, get a Carbon Monoxide detector / alarm - they are only 20 Quid or so and that's three parts of four fifths of f*ck all to spend, when it could save your life.
For around forty quid you can get a CO meter with readout in parts per million and these are great for making fuel/air adjustments that will really get your heater running at top efficiency and fuel savings should pay for itself in the first winter of running.
All the fuel savings you could make using these brilliant little heaters ain't enough to pay for your funeral - be safe and get a detector/alarm.
i luckily managed to buy a Chinese diesel heater off a guy that had lived in china ,he worked there as a English teacher ,and he bought a heater while over there , the one i got was specifically made for the Chinese market . seems to be better made ,and strangely it has 8 heat settings on it . which makes it very fuel efficient . even the fuel lines where the solid ,harder lines that most people had to upgrade to . it,s worked perfectly since i,ve had it ,that,s about 18 months now . on the lowest setting it,s so quiet . here,s a tip for you ,i know this will sound strange ,but get a small fan and run it on low ,and put it somewhere where the heat from the heater main heat pipe points to. ,then angle the fan to a space where heat does,nt reach and it will blow the hot air even further into the space . i found it speeds up the heating of an area .weird i know ,but it works .
That press was a little under powered for that bracket. I recommend at least a 50t press for that.
Controlled pressing 😉😉
He also butters he's bread with a sword!
Omg I always use hammer. That’s here I’ve be going wrong lol
@@2hotscottpro great answer,couldn’t stop laughing,but with him,not at him ,great video!
@@tracygeddes5867 m
It best to mount fuel pump on a rubber a.v mount to cut down the sound and more importantly the vibration. The air intake needs to be piped from the inside ,this will improve efficiency by 50%
Great video sir. I'm currently assembling mine and I'm glad to have this info before I decide to run it for the first time
the big problem I had was the exhaust leaking on the joints solved it by using an exhaust sealer on the joints. any car part shop will have it for around £3 a tub .started to get a head ak after 1 hour of running the heater. put a co2 in workshop and was read high
Possibly the funniest video ever. I got to get a press to bend my 2.5 mm brackets. I wonder how you were goina do it lol. I always use a hammer and a block of wood. Funny as
You’ve got the exhaust pumping out carbon monoxide in the same space as the cold air intake thus pumping it into the heated space. Seems extremely risky not to mention inefficient. I believe the unit is designed to be placed inside the heated space while the exhaust is piped to the outside.
yes, this right here, put the whole thing inside it will be much more effecient, might even point a fan at the whole thing too it gets hot when its on for a while and heating already warm air is easier than always cold air, just run the burner exhaust outside.
exactly...
The intake and exhaust both go outside, as they should. The heated air is drawn from inside and is completely separate from intake & exhaust
@@mikeakerstrom1667 the air intake is at the left hand end of the unit, so it is possible to draw exhaust fumes in to the air intake
@@mikeakerstrom1667 the air intake is at the left hand end of the unit, so it is possible to draw exhaust fumes in to the air intake
Personally I would move the unit inside the heated area with just the exhaust pipe coming through the wall to the outside. This would then have warmer air coming into unit and not freezing cold air from outside making it more efficient.
yeah exactly it's all hooked up wrong. This is the correct way- You tube John McK 47
But what if the exhaust leaks in the property 🤔
@@davidfletcher1156 very good point. I'd be running a CO detector closeby
@@davidfletcher1156 Then you did not install properly.
@redauwg911 please explain why as part of the exhaust will always be in the property and exhaust can deteriate over time so its clearly a risk
I'm using one of these heaters to heat my 600 square foot condo. I run the exhaust pipe out a window, seal the gaps (I use fireproof rockwool batt to surround the exhaust pipe). Last winter I used about 5 gallons US #2 Diesel per week to heat my home... far less expensive than heating with electric heat, which used to be my only source of heat. One thing I have noticed, these little heaters tend to coke up the combustion chamber if run at the low settings for long periods.
If you have any more issues with the fuel flow, those pumps aren't good at sucking, you might need to lift the tank up closer to the pump or the pump closer to the tank. I agree with the others, you need the cold air intake plumbed inside too. It's easier to heat the room air vs outside air. You could also pull in the exhaust fumes since they are close, the way it is now..
I concur, have your air intake coming from inside your garage. Also make sure your combustion air intake is well away from the exhaust pipe and use the muffler, have the exhaust sloping downwards to allow any condensation to come out. The other thing is the fuel pump runs best at 35degrees. Where did you get those rubber connectors for your white fuel line? That leak at the fuel line going into the heater should be tight as well as all others or you will eventually run into an E8 error.
Thanks for the tips! I'm addressing all the points 👍
The big mistake was watching this video of you trying to flatten the bracket.
I think the 50 ton Press to bend a sheet metal bracket was the fatal mistake! But it was very entertaining. ⚡👍
Pisser mate , I thought that 😂🤣
I was sweeping up wood dust. My diesel heater sucked up the dusty air, then it was to hard to burn, it flamed out. I completely carefully disassembled it, cleaned it with acetone, heated right up. Burning 50% diesel, 25% motor oil, 25% gasoline.
I hope youve clamped the exhaust onto the exhsust port with some exhsust paste and routed the exhaust outside, if not run a carbon monoxide alarm in the room. For your own saftey and those around you.
Do both,safely is paramount.
It has been my experience that the pump mounted at a 45* will burn up pumps, I burned up 3 pumps that way. I now mount them at 90* like you had yours only right side up. My heaters run for months at a time here in western Pennsylvania. You can tell when your pump is starting to go bad, It will start speeding up and then slow down it gets quite bothersome . I can't sleep listening to it speed up slow down. I like mine nice and steady. I think they tell you to mount them at 45* to sell more pumps. They are made of not the best steel. Unlike my Webasto's the pumps work any way you want, They are made really well and are expensive I have some from the 90's that are still ticking away. Cheers..
WHY not use, a 12v Remote Pump with a Regulator.. DONE Problem Solved 👍✌️
The fuel pump can be vertical as long as it’s the right way up. In fact it’s better vertical than at 45 degrees as air can get out even easier. The big no-no is to have it horizontal or at a shallower angle than 45 degrees.
As others have said already, you’ll get a huge efficiency improvement if you recirculate warm air rather than heating outside air all the time. Keep combustion intake and exhaust outside but have circulation intake and exhaust inside. It’s even better if you have the whole unit inside with the combustion exhaust and intake going outside because you also capture the radiated heat from the heater, but it would be noisier.
The trick to running it on other than diesel is cleanliness and heat. Strip it down, clean it completely, especially around the burn chamber and glow plug. Once it lites, you have to keep it on high so the combustion fan can keep it hot so even motor oil will burn.
Seems thinning down any heavy oils with waste diesel fuel would be wise though, and of course proper filtering
freezing cold intake outside......re do so you recirculate the warmed room air and take out the risk of exhaust gas in the room, insulate intake and output, the heater is designed to be inside the area being heated...
You made that easy bracket bending into right long job lol
that could forever change the saying "using a sledge hammer to break a nut" !
I bought a Chinese diesel heater for the first time about 4 years ago" I've bought 3 since then" they last about a year before the bearings start to squeak from pretty continuous running' a lot of the time on low" thats were my issue tonight was as i was watching the videos' on white smoke my d heater started to spew white smoke' i thought there was a new pope". I haven't ran it hot for months and i figured from my considerable experience that I had some build up that needed to be hot burned and a quick general ⛑ ⛑ maintenance' so i ran it full blast and it musta cooked the chamber" I went outside and straighten the exhaust pipe straight down and went back inside and started the heater it was still blowing white smoke and then what sounded like half a gunshot went off and couple of ounces of Black soot fell onto the ground and the Heater ran perfectly. Sure glad i straightened that exhaust pipe and burned the chamber or i wouldn't be having a merry Burrrrr Christmas. 1995 Thor 32 ft M
Another error why are you taking cold air from outside? If you recirculate the air from inside it will be possibly 30% more efficient
The pump is lubricated by the fuel by providing the angle it ensures fuel from the start eliminating pumping dry...
Interesting that you think installing the pump upside down is a fatal error, yet you've installed the exhaust without a clamp and are drawing the air for heating from the same space. Carbon Monoxide poisoning can be fatal too.
Yes, this is a more serious mistake than the fuel pump installed up side down. We spotted. When the heater starts, the workshop must be filled with diesel fume. Even at steady state, the amount of carbon monoxide is not zero. The heater was designed to be used inside a caravan. The separation of breathing air and burning air must mimic that of a caravan.
Watching you using a press on a tiny bracket you could easily bend by hand was hilarious. 😂
Glad you enjoyed it,precion bending with controlled pressure 😉🤣🤣🤣
I think you bought an illegal UK copy of a genuine original Chinese heater
Definitely connect up a return air vent from the room to the unit, as, at the moment, you're heating 100% outside air at say zero degrees, you'll only get the max temp rise out of the unit say 15 degrees, the room will never reach a cosy 20 let's say. You want it to reheat the air that's already been warmed from the room for best effect :)
Will also stop sucking in exhaust gasses as well then.
what size hose did u use for the inlet?
@@robertberin4872 ideally a little larger than the outlet hose, larger diameter hoses = slower moving air = lower resistance and in some cases lower noise
Hi mate. Not having a go, but you need to switch it off (for your safety) and maybe watch some videos on RUclips first. I'm new to this myself, but your install isn't safe. The exhaust gases can be sucked into the air heater inlet (then outlet to your room) which will be lethal. It needs routing outside. All the exhaust and fuel lines need Jubilee/circlips. The fuel line needs a filter before the pump. Try to run the unit off a car battery. A trickle charger can keep it topped up. Otherwise a power cut/trip will ruin the heater due to no slow power down. Good luck!
The air heater inlet doesn’t exhaust air into the room being heated. It’s true with the output and input close together some exhaust products are likely being ingested, and that’s not good for efficiency, but it isn’t a safety issue. This type of heater pulls air, combusts it, and exhausts it in one loop. Then a second air loop pulls air from the room to be heated, runs it through a heat exchanger, and dumps that now-heated air into the room/area to be heated. That’s the main reason why these things are safe to be used (if installed correctly) in truck cabs, etc. There’s 2 loops for air, and never do they touch.
@@SpiraSpiraSpira I think he means the exhaust fumes are going into the same room as your clean air intake
The combustion air intake and exhaust are outside, as they should be.
BUT: The *FRESH* air intake is not far above the exhaust: so it could pull in (CO laden) exhaust gases and send them inside the building.
This could be a real *"FATAL"* error... as in it can efficiently, silently, kill you.
The FRESH air intake needs to be completely separated from the exhaust... preferably in the same area that is being heated so it can re-warm already warmed air - much more efficient, also.
Also you still seem to have a diesel leak..that can contribute to your usage - not to mention if it hits the usually VERY hot exhaust pipe, it could ignite... not something you want to happen, either.
Gravity feed the fuel and take the load off the pump, Don't ever use that press again that way to flatten a pissy little bracket. And recirculate the warm room air back through the intake of the heater..
Also i would take the air from the room to pass through the heater and back in, if you are always taking in very cold air from outside you will be losing energy. By taking the warm air from the room and passing it again through the heater it will heat the room quicker.
It would be like switching on the recirculation switch for the car vents with the AC on, the car gets much colder as it takes the cold air from the interior and passes it back through the AC then back in again.
Thanks for the info.
From what I gather these are great in RVs and vans but not effective in work shops or garages as they cant heat large areas .
Its a shame as i have a double garage/workshop that I'd like to use in the winter, but i think I'd need a proper diesel space heater that pumps out at least 15- 20 kw
a heat pump could do you good there! Heating in the winter, cooling in the summer.
You’d be surprised you know. Obviously if the garage has openings around the door etc it wouldn’t hold heat but these things ticking over for a few hours can heat up or at the very least take the chill off quite a large area! Mines currently outside my house (which I’m thinking about changing to inside) and it’ll keep my whole downstairs at around 19 without having to boost the heating all the time! (Older house with fuck all insulation)
Mine heat's a 3bed semi det house on lowest heat setting
Should have a fuel filter in the kit to protect the pump.
Here's more info on fuels I've tried in the UK spec Vevo 5kW unit, with stock settings (with the controller-new type, late 2022, without the antenna signal indicator):
Best fuel, most heat, Kerosene=heating oil=jetA1=paraffin
Diesel, red or standard next best
Brake fluid, DOT3 diluted with 10% petrol next best
Old dirty engine oil diluted 20% with unleaded petrol next best
Transmission fluid/old gearbox oil diluted with 10% petrol next (but smelly)
Old gunwash thinners with 10% old engine oil to give it some lube properties not very good
Old petrol with 10% old engine oil, also not very good.
Acetone, brake and clutch cleaner (trichloroethylene- don't breath the smoke at all) or alcohol/meths don't really work at all.
With all of the hydrocarbons, it is pretty obvious that there is way too much air running through the combustion chamber, because the exhaust pipe gets really hot (wasted heat). The combustion gas is being pushed straight out of the heat exchanger. If you choke the combustion air inlet a little, while still maintaining a lean and clean burn (at max fan speed), the exhaust temp drops while the heat exchanger actually gets a lot hotter. More time for the hot combustion gases to transfer the heat into the heat sink, as the burning gas is moving slower.
Oh and throw away the little fuel filter they supply, as it doesn't filter anything! Get a proper fuel filter...
If anyone knows how to crack advanced settings on the new controller unit (without antenna signal indicator), please post! 👍🏻😀🇬🇧
Speaking of which, what,exactly is the purpose of the connectivity, I can't find an app for this and instructions are sparse with controller settings
30 second to bent the bracket with a hammer and 4 minutes to look like a prat and use a press . Thanks for the greast laugh
I'd also consider moving the pump away from the hot exhaust.
Anchorage, Alaska
Interesting video, good job that it is on youtube though, we can fast forward the 3 minutes of flattening a bit of metal!
Well done for using this kit ....
Thinking about buying one of these any day now, just my luck that you uploaded this video right now :D Thank you
You should have a cold air return from inside that room to go thru the unit and then back into the room with re-heated air. You are actually heating cold air and pumping it into a room. You need to make a continuous loop to properly heat a room.
Warning Carbon monoxide poisoning from exhaust and inlet to blower being in same area. Duct the intake side of the heater into the room to stop, it will also be way more efficent. At the moment you are blowing cold exhaust contaminated air into the room.
If you ever want some advice just make a RUclips video of what your doing. That’s my advice.👍
Those pumps DO NOT HAVE A SELF VENTING AIR BLEED. It can only pump through itself and PURGE. How on Earth did you get the pump fitted UPSIDE DOWN and NOT on a 45 degree angle as IS IN THE MANUAL. OH that is right, blokes only read the manual AFTER PROBLEMS.
So, how do you know which end of the pump is the inlet and which is the outlet? I have my pump fresh out of the box from Vevor, and there's no marking indicating direction.
are there english desel heaters or even german heater s ?
Max 45 degrees down to about 30 degrees is the sweet spot 👍
Good video but you could have shaved 4 minutes off it by using a hammer instead of that press...... 😂😂
think I would have just stood on the right angle bracket tbh 😄
No mate you need a 50 ton press, what a pisser
Hi my new heater has came with the pump horizontally and in same direction as the mistake in the video so mounted it a 45 degree angled but there is a flow arrow pointing towards the wiring is it wrong any idears .cheers
Hi John thanks for the comment. As far as I understand the arrow is the direction of flow and should point 👉 towards the wire connection. However different comments on RUclips land say the angle of the pump doesn't matter to much ...30/45/90/vertical etc. Mine is about 40-45 degrees ish ....and it's been working fine every day for over 2 months now .cheers.
I worry about these exhausts being too close to the cold air inlet. It will actively suck combustion products into it and into the workshop. When you pipe workshop air back out to the air intake that will help keep the two circuits isolated.
This isn’t how this type of heater works. This heater has 2 inputs for air. The first one is the input that gets combusted, then exhausted. These are generally both from outside. A second input takes air from inside the area being heated, runs that air over a heat exchanger and outputs it in the room to be heated. That’s what the fan is doing/why it needs electricity. So even if the input air that you’re talking about takes a little bit of combustion products, it will be exhausted right back outside without anything entering the room if he installed it correctly.
Only difficult part is control setup. Instructions are junk.
I haven't found any control panel wiring extenders, did you cut and splice?.I'm cautious to try it yet.
The fuel usage is mathematical
Each impulse of the pump moves 0.02ml of fuel. No more. No less.
Mine has 5 settings "H1,2,3,4,5. Etc
Here's the maths
Fuel usage
H1 2.0/sec = 120/min = 144 ml/h
H2 2.6/sec = 156/min = 187 ml/h
H3 3.4/sec = 204/min = 245 ml/h
H4 4.0/sec = 240/min = 288 ml/h
H5 5.0/sec = 300/min = 360 ml/h
That's what my "8kw all in one unit", uses.
It was designed in the 1930's for caravans, trucker cabs at night, boats, my garden cabin, etc...
Not really for homes, although many do warm a simple room really nicely with it. (Not the whole house, as some think)
It's 5kw. No more...
I am over the moon about mine by its efficiency, simplicity and serviceability.
I hope this helps
I believe your fuel is supposed to be mounted above the heater as well as the 30-45 degree tilt of pump...mayhaps that could also be the cause?
I wanted to install one of these bad boys for my bunk in my RV. There is no heating in that area for some strange reason, so even if I turn on the heat, it is chilly sleeping in the bunk. Diesel is easier to obtain than propane and does throw more heat per volume. You could easily have a small slip tank filled up (100+ liters) and it should last a long time between fills.
I'm planning on tapping a boat fuel tank for run time and safer fueling (heater inside,tank outside)
@@wilwert1746 those boat tanks are nice. You can also use plastic tanks used for farm grain belts or augers.
These things will heat your entire RV. I'll probably be overkill for a bunk
Mission impossible theme would have set the mood for the job
Watching you use a hydraulic press to flatten that bracket gave me permanent anxiety 😂😂😂.
Controlled pressure 😉 lol couldn't find my hammer 🤣 glad you enjoyed the video.
Allot of faffing about to straighten that bracket out. Bench vice, BFH, 10 seconds… sorted ha, ha, ha.
I would guess you don't have a vice and rubber hammer .
You can also calibrate the heaters so that they only use as much fuel as needed to generate the correct amount of heat rather than the default of too much which will make a more dirty exhaust and need to be cleaned more often, and usually the fan’s low speed is too low to move much air, so it’ll have a more useful range when you go to turn it down, once calibrated.
So how do you calibrate this?
@@zaprodk Hes got no idea. Just saying something he saw somewhere else..
@@zaprodk ruclips.net/video/SmCYQu53umk/видео.html
@zaprodk you calibrate through the touch screen. You can turn the hertz up and down for fuel flow depending on what type of fuel being used. I believe I've seen 4 to 4.5 hertz for diesel and 3.5 to 4 hertz for kerosene.
that is a big area to heat , so don't think you can use like 3 liter a 24 hour
Why not recirculate the inside air through the heater instead of taking in cold air from outside?
An update on the consumption and the power level yu are running it at would be kool, ta
Tank and pump should be above the heater not below it the pump only meters the fuel it does not pressurise it. Air intake and exhaust are the only things that need venting to the outside air, hot air intake and outlet stay in the room. If you have the burner air intake inside it causes negative air pressure and removes your heated air and pumps it out side.
Ya I probably would have used a Hamer to flatten the bracket but I guess when you have all the toys you might as well use them.
What Hz settings you use low and topp ???
5 liter over night ??? Omg i use 1/3 of that if not less
At full blast a 5kw heater will use about 0.5 l/hr
spot on mate i did a test on this in my video
Where have you got the exhaust going into. a room or outside?
That's quiet a height for the pump to draw fuel from be interesting to see if the pump lasts.
In the boxed versions there is only a matter of inches for the fuel to be drawn to the pump then the pump drains down hill as well. So you have two extra strains on the pump.
Unit should be inside Paul outside air for combustion and exhaust outside but the unit itself should be inside much more efficient your heating, whatever the outside air temperature is ambient air temperature up to room temperature to put it inside the heat way more fuel consumption depending on the temperature, you can before five times more fuel at sub zero
Isn’t the exhaust also to close to the fuel tube?
You can't really get it any further away
Recirculate the air rather than heating the air from outside the room
Any problems with heat going through the wall ?
ive tested this type of heater in a video and flat out it used 1 litre every 2.5 hours ..
Having the fuel pump upside down is hardly a "fatal" mistake. However, having the combustion exhaust outlet in, what appears to be, an enclosed (dirty) area of your workshop, could well and truly be FATAL! Would you leave your car idling away in that area all day?
The fuel pump is recommended bet.30 to 45degree Angle not upside down.thks
Pl try putting Fuel Tank at same height as the heater. The flow of diesel will be easy.May be that improve your heater,as you say it take 5 ltr.diesel in 8 hours. I see a video where guy check the average to be 0.14 ltr./ hour. I buy my heater after checking that video.
0.14 l/h isnt at full (5kw) tilt, no way. Maybe at 1.5-2kw output or so.
more of fatal mistake , the exhaust needs to go through an outside wall , the way you have it now can potentially put carbon monoxide from the exhaust sucked through the intake and into the room that you are heating , where as with the heater process it's making carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide ,to be detrimental to health with CO2 1000-15000 PPM starts to be harmful where as only 50 PPM of carbon monoxide can kill, the clacker pump instructions state a minimum of 45 degrees from the horizontal so having it vertical is preferable just pumping upwards to eliminate any air pockets as the pump is lubricated via the fuel going through it,
What do mortgage holders, insurance companies & freehold owners think about these heaters ?
Could fitting one lead to legal troubles.
RUclips
at its Best.
also noticed that you are running the fuel pump wrong , it's designed to be a metering pump not a flow or suction / pressure pump, every clack it's pushing 0.02 mili litre , if you look at the heater units that have an internal tank the fuel is gravity fed
Stick with the small, white, hard fuel line. This is the proper line not the larger, soft green or colored line.
No clamps on the fuel line fittings?? not strange that it is leaking on the pressure side between pump and burner. and where is the fuel filter?
I see that you have a church pew in front of the hardness tester. Do you pray before using the hardness tester hoping that the hardness comes out OK?
😆 🤣 😂 😹 daily worship, thanks for watching 👀 your comment made me laugh this morning. 😄
They use alot of fuel if you leave them on high or even medium, no matter if the pump is upside down or not..These are great for small insulated spaces when you can run them for half an hour and shut them off for an hour or so, or when the power goes out..A wood burner is best, then a mini split, for larger areas..
hello, I had a problem of exaggerated smoke before starting, then I discovered that by removing a layer of retina from the glow plug grille, it went into place, it seems strange to me, I've never heard anyone do this, what could it be?
There was mention of fuel efficiency / consumption intermingled with talk about the pump orientation, but no explanation as to the link between the two. How are they related?
Also, when the pump bleeds air, where does it vent it to?
I see no benefit as to run time tho proper placement could affect other performance.
how was it even working if you had the pump on backwards? doesnt that mean its pumping the wrong way?
Hi the pump flow wes correct it was jut the pump angle was wrong.
Two sec with a hammer,but I guess if I had a press like that I would do same.
It’s outside, with the exhaust next to the intake. Doesn’t that mean you’re pumping fumes in?
The exhaust should be to the out side and do you have a co meter
So 1 us gallon will last approximately 8hrs on highest setting 3 gallons = 24hrs. @ 5 bucks a gallon it is 15 dollars per day
15x30= $450 per month. If you only use it 8 hrs per day it would be $ 150 bucks a month.
How long does the battery last with out solar
Hi John we use these on the electric fence on the farm and they last about 3 weeks ,on this heater it lasted 24hours,that's 6 hours per day and the charge dropped to 60%
Then I just put the battery 🔋 charger on over night .
Could do with a fuel filter on that mate!
Its in the pipe line 👍
How did it run if the pump was pumping in the wrong direction?
It was pumping the right direction, it was just mounted upside down.
Thanks, for sharing that but iam getting a all in one with the led remote and with the built-in tank so much easier to move about
Fatal maybe but I was loosing the will to live watching you with the hydraulic press however a good video tar