Vevor Portable Diesel Heater - Don't make this Mistake😖
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Installing a Vevor Portable Diesel Heater in my shop office. Watch this video to see the most common mistake I see people make when using a portable Diesel Heater.
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Good video. For those afraid to tackle taking these apart to install the exhaust and intake lines, I ordered and used a STREBITO Mini Ratchet Set, 22-Piece 1/4 Ratchet Right Angle Screwdriver. Got it off Amazon for $12. Great little tool that has 36 teeth, meaning you can ratchet it with very small movements in a confined space. I paired that with the NEIKO 10068A Nut Driver Set, $14.95. I have since used it on other projects as well. Everyone should own one of these sets anyway.....they are awesome. Using the listed tools I was able to install the pipes with little to no issue. BTW, using a dremel, I extended the spilt in the pipe an additional 1/8 in. and could probably have extended it a bit further. This allows tightening with a lot less final torque. As for powering your unit, I would use a DC 12V 30A Power Supply 360W Universal Regulated Switching AC to DC Converter sold on Amazon for $20....drop down to 20A and it is like $17. I would go 30A though, I am always for overkill.
Floor:
Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete.
No need to glue down.
Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done.
Insulate ceiling next.
With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.
To do the floor in my shop, I used inch and a half foam board and two by fours on the flat. With 3/4 plywood. Worked really good.
I'm using a rv 110 to 12volt converter to power mine in my small shop. Works great.
You'd be wise to run it off a battery with a trickle charger instead of a converter. You could have serious trouble if you have a power failure. These are designed to shutdown properly if the battery voltage should get too low but not if the voltage is suddenly removed. Think of it this way these are designed to be operated in vehicles.
Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation.
1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible.
2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out.
3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me.
Keep up the great work!
I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.
Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I plan to power a heater with my Jackery this seems like a good workaround. Would you be able to have the battery charger and heater’s power wires connected to the terminals on the battery at the same time? Would I need a fuse board off the battery? I’m new to this
@@Kscanlon22 Yes, it's not a problem having your heater running off a 12V battery that is also connected to a smart charger that is plugged into a 120V outlet. AND Yes, you should protect the circuit from the battery to the heater with a fuse, a simple inline 15 amp fuse will suffice.
@@StratOvation what’s the advantage of this compared to just running an AC/DC inverter off the 120V outlet? Is it more efficient?
@@Kscanlon22 All of these heaters need to perform a shutdown procedure to burn off unspent fuel and clean the atomizing screen in the ignition chamber and they will run the fan for a few minutes to cool the heat exchanger portion of the heater, the cool down cycle is critical to protecting the ECU. If you do not have a guaranteed ability (such that a battery will provide) to allow the system to cool itself down before powering off, the residual heat in the unit can cause the electronic control unit (ECU) to become overheated (damaging the printed circuitry), rendering it useless and requiring replacement of the ECU.
In short, any unexpected interruption of the 120V power to the inverter will potentially damage the ECU making your heater unusable until repaired and lead to fouling of the ignition system which may make re-starting the unit a challenge.
I believe 12 volt car type plugs are universally only rated for 10 amps.
Thats correct.
With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.
I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
Hi. Also good that is inside otherwise you can suck in the exaust fumes and get sick or dead.
I run mine on the mountain modus and i am not even 5meter above sea level. It's alot les noisy and it runs cooler.
Thank you for your nice video.
Greetings of wim from Belgium
To change from C to F press the temperature up/down buttons at same time
I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it.
I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.
True. Exhaust pipe gets hot and connection under unit is very hot. I purchased a 90 degree connector and wrapped the pipe twice with high temp tape. Works great and safer.
Most models stop ticking after they get warm
Awesome video! Gonna go through your channel to see what else I can learn!
I wrapped cloth around pump 80 percent ticking quite
Wouldn't it be more efficient to have the air intake in your office to recirculate the warm air rather than taking in cold air from your shop?
I thought this too, especially after he said that it was inefficient to have it draw in and heat cold air. But that's what he was doing.
The intake will be sucking in exhaust fumes... not healthy..
The air intake from the outside is only for the cumbustion chamber inside the heater. The intake for the hot air is on the backside of the heater.
If you use the office air for furnace combustion, then outside cold air will be sucked into the heated room to replace the room air for combustion. That will create cold drafts & work against you.
A 90+ % home furnace works the same where the furnace pipes in outdoor air for combustion air.
@@kevinanderson7555 ?huh
Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on RUclips. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!
Same here with the Maxspeedingrods.....almost silent. However, I do have hearing issues. When I first ran it outside I had to put my ear near the unit to make certain it was pumping.
Is there an A/C adaptor for these heaters? I have electricity in the building, but not a battery pack like the Jackery....
Yep, eBay is where I got mine. 12v 30amp converter. 20.00, but I believe the small 12v battery & trickle charger is still the way to go. If you have a power outage while the heaters running, it won’t shut down properly without a 12v battery wired in
I stopped watching at 6:21 into the video. I saw everythinv I needed to see in that one frame.
Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor.
They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.
Hold on... you said the heat exchanger uses the ambient air, which is correct but the intake is also pulling in the air so if you put your intake filter outside, you're still collecting cold air... If your unit is on, it should be outside. If it is running and your tank is connected to your heater like the all in one's are, you will not get gelling. Having your heater inside your tent is a bad idea, if you're in a vehicle that you have installed your heater correctly, then you're fine but on a set up that will be getting moved and set up over and over and over, it's not worth the fire risk. If you're worried about gelling or etc, then build a small collapsible box that you can insulate your heater with outside of your "living" area.
You might buy an ALITOVE AC to DC Converter 110V to 12V Converter 20.8A 250W with Car Cigarette Lighter Socket 100V~240V AC to DC 12 Volt 20A 18A 15A Power Supply Adapter.
It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.
I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold.
Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.
Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great
Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.
I see an air frier / toaster oven in the shop office's future.....for the quick snack while ur editing.
Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!
It's not a vevor issue, it's a diesel heater issue as a whole so it won't be changed anytime soon. It would be easier for jackery, anker, ecoflow, etc to bump up their power ratings to 15A than it would to get random chinese companies to lessen their power consumption on start up.
Have you tried using kerosene instead of diesel ?
That's what I use in my new HCalory heater. Works great! K1 white clear kerosene.
I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.
Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing.
If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.
Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery.
Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.
I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.
I purposely have my diesel heater heating cold outside air and forcing it inside because I wanted to bring in dry cold air to heat, and force out any warm moist air inside through leakage. I will take the hit on the efficiency to keep things dry. I can see in an area where you do not plan on sleeping or cooking where this would be less of a concern.
Yes, I also would be concerned about the exhaust possibly leaking into sleeping space. Its not worth it for the sake of efficiency to risk your health or maybe even life! Have the entire unit outside and duct the heat in.
HI JASON 👋
THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉
Does the exhaust smell the same as from a diesel engine?
Yes, but after the heater warms up, the exhaust smells like hot air.
I would use a 12 volt battery in line to have the amperage available for the startup of the heater using a charger to keep the battery full.
You are right! but having the Diesel heater inside and taking the cold air outside can cause condensation in cold climates, especially when starting from cold. PS: in really cold weather, they don't work outdoors so it's a catch 22!.
Add a 2x6 framed and insulated floor. You’ll have a step up into the office but that will help the cold radiating from the concrete floor problem.
That thing uses 120W max at its highest and ~30 W when fully heated. So basically 10A is the max it'll draw. The problem is the battery pack isn't able to maintain the amperage for long and is kicking on its safety circuitry to not overheat.
Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.
Not a good look. You blatantly admit to using a nearly 50% overload on an electrical connection. You say people are using these incorrectly, but you don't seem to be overly compliant with common sense principles. I hope the air infiltration is sufficient to keep you from being a CO death discovered by loved ones. I can hear 'em now, "why don't he write?"
Goal Zero, Oupes, Bluetti, and EcoFlow all have 12v 30amp.
Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?
Mine clicked only when setting it up. After priming the pump and exiting the prime part, it runs really quiet. Read the distructions! Also, try to not let it run out of fuel or it will need priming again. Good luck!
A little insulation will make a big difference winter and summer. Also a rug with pad on the floor will help.
I found in 30 degree weather my camper van needed 1500BTU for modest heat. Below freezing and expect ice in the toilet.
You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..
your no expert, you made misstates with exhaust and intake and not sure where you got that 15 amp stuff, mine runs 5-6 amps ONLY on first ignition , etc. etc.
Thanks for your review. Great points.
I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.
Mount the diesel pump outside the cabinet. The cover is amplifying the sound.
i have a 12v-25amp plug on my bluetti, could i wire it for that? otherwise it’s 12v 10a cig lighter
Having the unit inside is good for efficiency. Having the unit inside and the air intake outside might not be that bad. The air intake is for the combustion chamber where the heated air is drawn through the unit over the heat exchanger. Cold air has more oxygen per volume so there might be an advantage in having a cold air intake into the combustion chamber (or maybe not... don't know).
Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.
get a step up rectifier between the jackery and the diesel heater...problem solved for a few bucks...
I used a 30 amp converter on mine. 21 bucks on Amazon. 4.5 ⭐
I leave my heater outside, and just route the blower inside. Can't even hear the thing running and heats just fine. I don't understand why people put them inside.
I also think that Vevor corporation should change their electrics in this heater, so we dont have to find power adapters for 10 dolars... 😅
I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.
I use eco flow 720 DC plug no problem. But none of the rest of my boxes can run it.
I would buy a power supply on Amozon. 12volt 30 amp.
@13:23 Howes, Diesel Treat, Conditioner and Anti-gel
Why do believe you have to put air intake outside.... makes no sense....
Nice skull on the shelf there! What is that? A black bear?
Cake and put a rubber down on your concrete. That will help greatly.
That diesel eater you wanna put outside and put it into a small department outside. Bring the pipe in do not trust it will fucking kill you
I put mine outside, really don't want diesel fuel inside to stink it up. The pump isn't bad with mine
More insulation? Looks like you have zero now. You are going to spend a lot in fuel until you insulate.
Has your heater stop working because it over heating?
get that air intake away form the exhaust all your doing is pulling co back in
why not have air intake inside warm air would atomize fuel better
You put the intake air tube outside your office space, yet you said you shouldn't do that .
There's no problem leaving the freash air intake inside with the heater.
For a tent can't you just put the intake into the tent and leave the rest outside?
The intake goes inside. It's more efficient and it won't kill you with exhaust fumes being sucked in.
That’s not how these work, the intake goes straight into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust, kind of like a small engine except these have a heating element and the fan blows through it to create the warm air.
UK Govt banned this heater, it's clearly so cheap to run they don't want anyone benefiting from it.
12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not.
Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.
3 reasons why you want cold outside air for the intake .
1= cold air has more oxygen = hotter fire
2= cold air has less moisture = hotter fire and less soot
3= if you draw in cold air and heat it up inside, you create a heat bubble with warm air pushing out.
That is why wood stoves draw in outside air.
Hope this helps.
Which intake are you talking about🤔. Its sounds like your talking the intake for the propane burning, not the air being circulated across the heat exchanger. That air you definitely want coming from inside and not the outside.
Hope that helps.
Jason
I just got a 15a 12v AC / DC converter for $25 on Amazon.
No power issues for the on on my porch install.
Is it possible to wire this up to a converter for dc to ac?
Nice and quiet inside your office, ouch
Interesting, I must have 20 old power supplies (computer bricks) that have 12 volt output and some at least 10 amp output. I’d just dig through my old box of them and hack the 12 volt into one of those things instead of that cigarette plug your using. Power brick into one of the 110v outlets on the jackery, output wired into the heater, ditch that cigarette thingy you have wired in.
Just get a 12 v battery or deep cycle battery.
One possible mistake that could be fatal that I can see, even though this is a temp set up, is that you have your air intake near your exhaust. It is possible is that your air intake will pull in your exhaust. Again, I know this is a temp set up. But I just wanted you to be aware so that when you do your permanent installation, you do not put them near each other.
This isn't an issue. The air intake is for the combustion chamber only. If it does draw too much exhaust fumes, it will only reduce the combustion of diesel but i highly doubt it.
The air that is being used for heating comes from the room in which the heater sets, meaning, it is a closed loop heating system. Air In on the left side, heated air Out on the right side (control panel side)
Haven't read every comment but an easy cheap fix I bougnt an ac to 12v cig converter since most power stations have ac. Still portable and still using roughly the same wattage but you plug the adapter in to the ac on your power station so you can get at least 10 amps to feed your diesel heater. My 12v outlet on my power station never actually supplied 10 amps. It's supposed to be 10 amps according to the manufacturer but on two power stations I get the same thing. Measuring it I noticed it shut down before 100 watts. The adapter allowed me to use AC which doesn't shutdown and the 10 amp adapter works for me but you can find them all the way up to 20 amps if you so desire. I didn't want to carry around another battery just for the heater.
Love your channel as I live in your region of the PNW!
But I do take exception to these Chinese knockoff diesel heaters across the board. They are of absolute garbage quality. They guzzle fuel, they pull huge amps, they’re noisy and total unreliable.
But I understand the price point issue for folks with the German heaters. But there is a great middle price option and imo the same quality as an Espar or Wabasto heaters. Its the Russian made Planar (now Autotherm). They are commercial marine grade heaters, been in business forever and used heavily in Europe. Not only are they half the price of an Espar, their design and electronics are much simpler and way less problematic. I self installed my unit 4 years ago and it’s been running heavily ever since with zero issues. My Espar buddies have had countless electronic issues and I’d probably be in my 6th cheap Chinese heater with the amount of usage.
My 2 cents😊. Thanks for your channel.
Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel
Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.
Why do you only want 10 amps because you want it? Lol funny there not going to changed there full setup because u only wants the heater to draw 10 amps. Why don’t you change your set up? Yeah okay.
The manufacturer cannot make these diesel heaters to run at 10 amps 1. The glow plug is what takes most of the amps 2.with the fan running takes around 2amps before it ramps up depending on if you can adjust HZ then you can control the fan speed and the pump speed other than that if you don't have a way to get in the the main menu (secret menu) your are at the mercy of the controller (display)
I don't get it. You obviously have electrical service, so why not just put an electric radiative or fan blower heater inside the office? Also, a small 12V battery placed between the Jackery and heater would be able to provide the surge of current needed during starting.
Actually it takes far less energy to heat cold dry air than humid warm air we dump inside heated air and bring in cold air through heaters far more efficient a heat exchanger to preheat exterior air helps optimize the system used in -20 to -40 Celsius conditions.
Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.
Great information here, I'm setting up one in my shop and find the connection for your exaust interesting.
I have 3/4 inch plywood to go thru and if the exaust touches metal and then that metal touches the wood, it burns it. I want to use your idea. I am still concerned that metal will conduct the heat.
I ran my exaust thru a larger diameter pipe and that pipe is snug to my hole. I think my issue is its a tight fit and that pipe is getting to 400 plus degrees.
There needs to be some kind of space between the pipe and wood or whatever it's attached to in my opinion.
Hopefully this makes sense. Just looking for a way to do it right. With the appropriate pieces of equipment
Suggestions please.
I got one it's called LF BROS and that fuel pump is very quiet and built very good I also have a cheaper Chinese model and that one the fuel pump is very noisy and very cheap case it's in
I run my heater on a jackery 500 but you need to find a liter plug that's heavy duty. I had the same problem with a cheap liter plug.
I use the Bluetti AC70 and it works perfect with this heater no problem, just something to consider when it comes to power banks and diesel heaters. Also that heat setting doesn't work, have used these for 2 years and they never shut off. Unfortunately the manuals are horrible and there is no real explanation on some of the features.
I remember VCRs when they came out and probably for the next 10 years I don't think I ever figured out how to get the clock to set on those things
If you have 120v in your office to charge the Jackery, why not do what I did & get a 12v, 15a power adapter?
run unit outside an one hole for outlet vent