Thanks for the video! The fuel pump on these is known as a "lift pump" on a diesel engine. It is a diaphragm style pump, so angling it slightly upward keeps the diaphragm submerged in fuel and keeps it from cavitating (foaming air in the fuel)
I get the rude commenter on occasion, but a vast majority are respectful and informative.... so I consider myself lucky :) Thanks for the encouraging words!
Add a heat exchanger (basically a radiator) to the exhaust output with a fan blowing through it and reclaim the heat it's wasting and blowing outside. There are multiple videos here on RUclips of how to do that.
Yes, it is a very common approach. I have seen implementations using copper tubing in sand, or going through steam/hydronic radiators, or oil radiators. Lot's to consider, but it isn't without risk. You could invite exhaust leaks through added apparatus. You could also add too much back pressure to the internal exhaust fan through the added apparatus. So take care to test it well. But definitely worthwhile to look into if you want high efficiency in your heating. Thanks for the comment!
Nicely done Sir! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences. I agree on the Mickey mouse exhaust clamps, they produce a uniform clamping force on the entire diameter delivering a much more robust seal at that critical juncture. a bit of exhaust sealant at that connection can also help ensure a good seal.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. For the power issue, can't you just get a battery back up like for a PC and just put that on your AC line that way you don't have to rewire or change anything? It's already set up for 110 AC, might as well just back that up since it is easy and readily available?
An UPS is a good idea and will work well, as long as you only run the heater while at home and awake. Many UPSs will not provide an extensive run time, so you will need to shut the heater down before the system crashes.
Many UPS units can signal for a Windows/Linux shutdown over USB or serial when the grid goes down. Maybe a Pi Zero or Arduino could act as a go-between, if it could be made speak to both the commercial UPS, and the diesel heater. The diesel heater end would be the harder side. I'm not sure what the capabilities of your heater control panel are, but some of them can work with keychain RF remotes and/or Bluetooth apps... Which might be a way to interface with some sort of Dev board. @@daviddawkins2829
Lots of people are now making exhaust heat exchangers for them now, lots of heat escaping out the hole in the wall. Some use older cast iron radiators or modifying electric oil filled heaters, I have a enclosed trailer we camp out of, I have a larger pipe the runs the length of the trailer under the floor on the frame, the exhaust is plumbed into the pipe by a adapter, the exhaust moves slower because of the increased volume now allowing for the pipe to get heat soaked and radiate out under the floor, seems to work nice unless there is a good wind blowing, my floor isn't insulated and the wood is about 6" above. but it does seem to give us a little radiant heated flooring.
I have seen some of those radiator implementations for the exhaust. I just didn't want to add any additional complexity to my setup since it only gets used in brief spurts. Good point though; if implemented correctly, some kind of radiator can make these heaters more efficient. Thanks for watching!
Hi. Nice install. How is the through hull adapter working for the exhaust. I’m planning to do the same, but I’m concerned about the amount of heat on the wall. Mine would be attached to vinyl siding on the exterior. How hot does it get? Thanks.
I was actually going to run it for a while and test the flange with my thermometer, but that old power supply that's running the heater is having issues. So it may take me a bit to sort that out. I will say, I ran it for several hours multiple times in the winter and I haven't seen any scalding of the wood on either side of the flange. It is made to keep the fiberglass boat hull from melting, so I would assume it should protect your vinyl siding too.
The exhaust clamps to a thick 1" stainless steel tube, then there is an outer 1-1/2" stainless sleeve around that with an air gap. On each side of the collar, there is a heat-resistant rubber gasket that is between the wall and the collar. That keeps it from burning the wall as heat goes through it.
I recommend a power station with solar panels and the option of charging my power station with 110v from the house that is what I use with a 110 to 12v converter solves all those issues of shut downs
What a coincidence; I was just discussing this in a Facebook post. I believe in the video I said it was 3/16" inner diameter fuel line. I bought it by the foot at the local auto parts store. Bring your fuel filter to the store to confirm fitment
I was wondering what the temp of the exhaust pipe is, now that it was wrapped. I'm worrying about it setting a canvas tent on fire. Any way you can tell me the temp of the pipe exterior? Thanks
I was running it today and saw your comment. My infrared thermometer showed between 4 and 500 degrees F on the exhaust. But I can touch it for a couple seconds! So I measured it with a meat thermometer and it got a little above 200 degrees F. At the wall flange, it's a little above 100 degrees. So likely the wrap lowers the temp in the outside of the pipe by about 200 degrees.
Couldn't you get a small UPS backup and simply plug your power supply into that? That way if your breaker trips or whatever, the UPS just keeps it running?
The sealed lead acid charges to just over 14v for full charge and should be held about 13.6v for a "float" charge. After the charger is removed, they settle to about 12.6v or a bit higher. If your current power supply is 12.0v, then that type battery would certainly not be overcharged if left in parallel with the power supply. In fact, it would not be at a high enough voltage to stay healthy. Something like 12.6v is more ideal to stay fully charged. A 12v Lithium ion (3 cells in series) charges to 4.1v per cell, so X3 would be about 12.3v, so if you have a 12.0v regulated supply already, a 3S Li-ion battery in parallel would be a reasonable solution. Charged to 4.0v per cell is almost fully charged. RC or "drone" type batteries have high current and even a relatively small one should provide the power to run the fan to complete a shutdown.
My current power supply outputs 13.4v. So I agree with you, I think I could still use a SLA battery in parallel and it would just float charge while running. The only reason I wouldn't use a lithium pack in parallel with this power supply is that lithium chemistry prefers to be charged at a lesser amperage after ~80% SOC. So a smart charger would be better than a "dumb" power supply to auto adjust the charging algorithm to suit the chemistry. Also, many lithium chargers have cell balancing inputs as well that would help keep the individual cells balanced at the end of the charge. That is why I mentioned if I went with a lithium pack (like an RC pack that you mentioned) as a primary power source, I would just replace the power supply with a smart charger designed for lion. Thanks for watching and sharing!
@@FixItScotty That voltage (13.4v) would work well for lead acid. About lithium, in your suggested solution, the lithium battery would not normally discharge and so balance would not be a real concern. Balance concerns are greater when the cells amp-hr capacity is different because of wear, coupled with cycling of the pack without a balance function. Also, charging lithium at a fixed voltage causes the amps to taper off because the voltage difference between the power source and the battery continues to be less as the battery voltage comes up. So ohms law takes care of that. I have several "chargers" that are just current limited voltage sources set at 4.0 volts per cell to keep a battery charged.
I'm not sure if a power outage and sudden shut off of the diesel heater is much to worry about. Many automotive / RV applications, roof-top tent applications use portable stations that suddenly run out of battery and will simulate that same condition. Not sure I've seen too many people talk / complain about that?
@@thedetroiters, I am thinking many of those units are exposed to the elements and would get a rough ride cool down due to wind or weather? In a shelter or heated space or cabinet, the process may well be too slow.
I'm not putting your install down I really like what you've done with it. That said, here's another reason to drill another hole in the siding; Not routing the combustion air intake hose outdoors will turn the heater in to a small vacuum, blowing the heated air outside in the exhaust but ALSO sucking outdoor air in through the path of least resistance - probably your garage door or the workshop window - to do so. It is the same reason why new "single hose" portable A/C units are a scam and I only recommend using older dual-hose units... The newer cheaper units usually suck hot air in through the same window it's exhausting cooled room air out of! It might not be moving enough air to matter, but you might find it does a better job heating the garage space if it's not creating a draft for burn air.
That makes total sense. It's the same reason high efficiency natural gas furnaces draw makeup air from the outside. I will probably see how it goes this winter and then make that change next spring. Thanks!
Forget a power outage damaging your $100 diesel heater you are potentially causing a fire hazard. Good luck explaining those circumstances to your insurer. A regular battery and and trickle charger will be fine. These units draw very little when they are up and running.
@@FixItScotty when a diesel heater shuts down it has to go through a cool down cycle where the fan continues to blow few a period to allow the unit to cool. In the event of a power outage the heater can't complete this cycle. The manufacturers specify they shouldn't be used with a mains power supply.
Please do take what you like! Now that temps are dropping, I am using it again and am so thankful I have this heater. Good luck on your implementation!
Thanks for the video! The fuel pump on these is known as a "lift pump" on a diesel engine. It is a diaphragm style pump, so angling it slightly upward keeps the diaphragm submerged in fuel and keeps it from cavitating (foaming air in the fuel)
Your description makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info!
Stay humble and kind my friend. You probably met some hate but met it with grace 🍻
I get the rude commenter on occasion, but a vast majority are respectful and informative.... so I consider myself lucky :) Thanks for the encouraging words!
Add a heat exchanger (basically a radiator) to the exhaust output with a fan blowing through it and reclaim the heat it's wasting and blowing outside. There are multiple videos here on RUclips of how to do that.
Yes, it is a very common approach. I have seen implementations using copper tubing in sand, or going through steam/hydronic radiators, or oil radiators. Lot's to consider, but it isn't without risk. You could invite exhaust leaks through added apparatus. You could also add too much back pressure to the internal exhaust fan through the added apparatus. So take care to test it well. But definitely worthwhile to look into if you want high efficiency in your heating. Thanks for the comment!
Great changes Scotty. Can t wait to see more on the e bus
Thanks! Back to the bus now... I think I have exhausted (no pun intended) all of the videos for this heater.
Nicely done Sir! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences. I agree on the Mickey mouse exhaust clamps, they produce a uniform clamping force on the entire diameter delivering a much more robust seal at that critical juncture. a bit of exhaust sealant at that connection can also help ensure a good seal.
Thanks so much for your input as well. As you can see, it had a lot of influence on my build.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. For the power issue, can't you just get a battery back up like for a PC and just put that on your AC line that way you don't have to rewire or change anything? It's already set up for 110 AC, might as well just back that up since it is easy and readily available?
Absolutely. Putting a UPS in between the power supply and outlet is probably the easiest solution for a backup. Great suggestion!
An UPS is a good idea and will work well, as long as you only run the heater while at home and awake. Many UPSs will not provide an extensive run time, so you will need to shut the heater down before the system crashes.
@@daviddawkins2829 Agreed. That would work perfectly for me, but maybe not others.
Many UPS units can signal for a Windows/Linux shutdown over USB or serial when the grid goes down. Maybe a Pi Zero or Arduino could act as a go-between, if it could be made speak to both the commercial UPS, and the diesel heater. The diesel heater end would be the harder side. I'm not sure what the capabilities of your heater control panel are, but some of them can work with keychain RF remotes and/or Bluetooth apps... Which might be a way to interface with some sort of Dev board.
@@daviddawkins2829
Do you have a part number or link to the double wall flange? I’m looking for one and can’t find one. Great video by the way.
Thanks! I believe the wall flange part was linked in the first video, but here it is: amzn.to/3NN3FzR
Lots of people are now making exhaust heat exchangers for them now, lots of heat escaping out the hole in the wall. Some use older cast iron radiators or modifying electric oil filled heaters, I have a enclosed trailer we camp out of, I have a larger pipe the runs the length of the trailer under the floor on the frame, the exhaust is plumbed into the pipe by a adapter, the exhaust moves slower because of the increased volume now allowing for the pipe to get heat soaked and radiate out under the floor, seems to work nice unless there is a good wind blowing, my floor isn't insulated and the wood is about 6" above. but it does seem to give us a little radiant heated flooring.
I have seen some of those radiator implementations for the exhaust. I just didn't want to add any additional complexity to my setup since it only gets used in brief spurts. Good point though; if implemented correctly, some kind of radiator can make these heaters more efficient. Thanks for watching!
Hi. Nice install. How is the through hull adapter working for the exhaust. I’m planning to do the same, but I’m concerned about the amount of heat on the wall. Mine would be attached to vinyl siding on the exterior. How hot does it get? Thanks.
I was actually going to run it for a while and test the flange with my thermometer, but that old power supply that's running the heater is having issues. So it may take me a bit to sort that out. I will say, I ran it for several hours multiple times in the winter and I haven't seen any scalding of the wood on either side of the flange. It is made to keep the fiberglass boat hull from melting, so I would assume it should protect your vinyl siding too.
Ok. Thanks. I may try running it with the through hull adapter in place before installing in wall to see how hot it gets first as a trial.
Hi, I'm curious about the thru hall with wood walls, can you explain how these thru hall work so the wood doesn't burn.
Tks
Gary
The exhaust clamps to a thick 1" stainless steel tube, then there is an outer 1-1/2" stainless sleeve around that with an air gap. On each side of the collar, there is a heat-resistant rubber gasket that is between the wall and the collar. That keeps it from burning the wall as heat goes through it.
fuel filter clear should be output side so you can see if it's clogged and passing fuel or not.
I recommend a power station with solar panels and the option of charging my power station with 110v from the house that is what I use with a 110 to 12v converter solves all those issues of shut downs
That is certainly a good way to do it. Thanks for sharing!
What are all the sizes of hose did you get ? I like that better than the nylon stuff
What a coincidence; I was just discussing this in a Facebook post. I believe in the video I said it was 3/16" inner diameter fuel line. I bought it by the foot at the local auto parts store. Bring your fuel filter to the store to confirm fitment
I was wondering what the temp of the exhaust pipe is, now that it was wrapped. I'm worrying about it setting a canvas tent on fire. Any way you can tell me the temp of the pipe exterior? Thanks
I was running it today and saw your comment. My infrared thermometer showed between 4 and 500 degrees F on the exhaust. But I can touch it for a couple seconds! So I measured it with a meat thermometer and it got a little above 200 degrees F. At the wall flange, it's a little above 100 degrees. So likely the wrap lowers the temp in the outside of the pipe by about 200 degrees.
@@FixItScotty Thank you and thanks for the quick response.
Couldn't you get a small UPS backup and simply plug your power supply into that? That way if your breaker trips or whatever, the UPS just keeps it running?
Absolutely. Although not the cheapest solution, adding a UPS between the power supply and outlet is the easiest to implement by far. Thanks!
@@FixItScotty Unless you find a cheap one!!
What size t clamps did you get?
I forget the size. But I put a link to the product in the video description.
The sealed lead acid charges to just over 14v for full charge and should be held about 13.6v for a "float" charge. After the charger is removed, they settle to about 12.6v or a bit higher. If your current power supply is 12.0v, then that type battery would certainly not be overcharged if left in parallel with the power supply. In fact, it would not be at a high enough voltage to stay healthy. Something like 12.6v is more ideal to stay fully charged. A 12v Lithium ion (3 cells in series) charges to 4.1v per cell, so X3 would be about 12.3v, so if you have a 12.0v regulated supply already, a 3S Li-ion battery in parallel would be a reasonable solution. Charged to 4.0v per cell is almost fully charged. RC or "drone" type batteries have high current and even a relatively small one should provide the power to run the fan to complete a shutdown.
My current power supply outputs 13.4v. So I agree with you, I think I could still use a SLA battery in parallel and it would just float charge while running. The only reason I wouldn't use a lithium pack in parallel with this power supply is that lithium chemistry prefers to be charged at a lesser amperage after ~80% SOC. So a smart charger would be better than a "dumb" power supply to auto adjust the charging algorithm to suit the chemistry. Also, many lithium chargers have cell balancing inputs as well that would help keep the individual cells balanced at the end of the charge. That is why I mentioned if I went with a lithium pack (like an RC pack that you mentioned) as a primary power source, I would just replace the power supply with a smart charger designed for lion. Thanks for watching and sharing!
@@FixItScotty That voltage (13.4v) would work well for lead acid. About lithium, in your suggested solution, the lithium battery would not normally discharge and so balance would not be a real concern. Balance concerns are greater when the cells amp-hr capacity is different because of wear, coupled with cycling of the pack without a balance function. Also, charging lithium at a fixed voltage causes the amps to taper off because the voltage difference between the power source and the battery continues to be less as the battery voltage comes up. So ohms law takes care of that. I have several "chargers" that are just current limited voltage sources set at 4.0 volts per cell to keep a battery charged.
@@ddthames Good to know. Thanks for the insights.
I'm not sure if a power outage and sudden shut off of the diesel heater is much to worry about. Many automotive / RV applications, roof-top tent applications use portable stations that suddenly run out of battery and will simulate that same condition. Not sure I've seen too many people talk / complain about that?
@@thedetroiters,
I am thinking many of those units are exposed to the elements and would get a rough ride cool down due to wind or weather? In a shelter or heated space or cabinet, the process may well be too slow.
👍
I'm not putting your install down I really like what you've done with it. That said, here's another reason to drill another hole in the siding;
Not routing the combustion air intake hose outdoors will turn the heater in to a small vacuum, blowing the heated air outside in the exhaust but ALSO sucking outdoor air in through the path of least resistance - probably your garage door or the workshop window - to do so.
It is the same reason why new "single hose" portable A/C units are a scam and I only recommend using older dual-hose units... The newer cheaper units usually suck hot air in through the same window it's exhausting cooled room air out of!
It might not be moving enough air to matter, but you might find it does a better job heating the garage space if it's not creating a draft for burn air.
That makes total sense. It's the same reason high efficiency natural gas furnaces draw makeup air from the outside. I will probably see how it goes this winter and then make that change next spring. Thanks!
Forget a power outage damaging your $100 diesel heater you are potentially causing a fire hazard. Good luck explaining those circumstances to your insurer. A regular battery and and trickle charger will be fine. These units draw very little when they are up and running.
I must have missed something, how is it a fire hazard?
@@FixItScotty when a diesel heater shuts down it has to go through a cool down cycle where the fan continues to blow few a period to allow the unit to cool. In the event of a power outage the heater can't complete this cycle. The manufacturers specify they shouldn't be used with a mains power supply.
groofy
You got best neat setup with 2 awesome videos 🫡👍 I ain’t gonna lie I’m using some of your ideas 💡 thanks 🙏
Please do take what you like! Now that temps are dropping, I am using it again and am so thankful I have this heater. Good luck on your implementation!