Видео

No. On my unit, it's not necessary to shut off the gas.

I haven't done range testing because I haven't registered the car yet. I am waiting until Spring to register it because it's too cold to drive and I still need to finish adjusting the brakes and re-brush the motor - basically just buttoning up the mechanicals. So that will be coming soon. My guess on range for my 30kwh pack is around 75 miles.

@FixItScotty the reason I ask is I just got a mg midget and am converting it. Today I found a Warp 9 with a Zilla controller never installed. I was wondering because you had the little car before very similar what king of range do you think I would get if I copy your battery setup. Granted it will be challenging to get al 6 battery packs in.

@@kracticuspotts9686 Oh, ok. Cool! Well I do have plenty of experience with my Spitfire conversion to answer that. The 13kwh pack in that gave it a 50 mile range. So, maybe 60 miles per 15kwh. So a pack of my van's size could do 120 miles. That said, watch my part 18 video where I warn about split parallel packs in a small car. I wouldn't do it. I probably would build a single series string of 180AH 3.2v cells or, at least, lower voltage OEM modules like the Tesla model S.

@FixItScotty thank you. If you are interested I did get my last conversion finished ruclips.net/user/shortsuPBeUQDCoXs?si=2yZx_8igcPpdq_cb

I take that phase "flush with the wall" to mean level with the wall. Or, in other words, plumb. The bottom brace for the opener is slotted so that you can change the plumb and lock it in. Just like I did. So I would say, no, you don't need the back of the opener blocked up to the wall.

@ I inferred that same thing but am glad you confirmed. Door is working great! Thanks

I believe I discussed the controller on Part 3. It is the Warp Drive 160v/1000amp DC motor controller from Netgain Controls. Netgain Controls went out of business years ago (not to be confused with Netgain MOTORS, which is still in business). They were a sister company to Netgain Motors to make controllers for their Warp DC motors. If you find one of these units on the used marketplace, make sure it is a GEN 2 version like mine. Apparently the GEN 1 version had serious design flaws. They also made a commercial motor controller that didn't have the clear acrylic face (they were plain metal boxes). Apparently those were designed and built well, but are hard to find.

@FixItScotty any thoughts on Curtis controller 144 volt 500 amp. Looking at a 9 inch DC with controller and all other parts except battery from a former conversion for $1000.

@ I have no experience with Curtis controllers other than knowing they were very commonly used for DC motors. So at least you aren't working with something from a defunct company. That 70kw max setup will move a small car just fine, but don't expect to build a drag racer out of it.

Another commenter informed me about the change in recommending not installing the thrust washer. It hasn't been a problem for me, but I will keep that in mind if I have sensor issues again.

@FixItScotty thanks for reply and your videos are rare and appreciated so glad you are passionate about your craft well done. It will be interesting to note if it happens with your new one. So worthy of keeping it on, it may be the reason for the new axle nuts that were replaced. Ty

That is true. I did show it in my advanced cleaning video pinned in the comment. Thanks for watching!

I agree. I did a follow video pinned in the comments that rectifies the issues you brought up. Which are very good points. Thanks for watching!

Yes, it is a very common approach. I have seen implementations using copper tubing in sand, or going through steam/hydronic radiators, or oil radiators. Lot's to consider, but it isn't without risk. You could invite exhaust leaks through added apparatus. You could also add too much back pressure to the internal exhaust fan through the added apparatus. So take care to test it well. But definitely worthwhile to look into if you want high efficiency in your heating. Thanks for the comment!

I did a follow-up video (linked in the pinned comment) where I implement some of the commenters' suggestions to my build. But, you're right, there are so many differing opinions on what is the "correct" way to run these. Mine has been working great for the last year, so I am satisfied with my build.

Thanks! I believe the wall flange part was linked in the first video, but here it is: amzn.to/3NN3FzR

It's possible a gasket could be mis-seated. Try taking it back out and inspect the parts again. Also make sure there is no debris in the valve body too. It usually comes down to a small installation issue. It's possible, although rare, that the cartridge could be bad.

Agreed. I don't own a 3D printer, but I really should look into getting one for things like this. Thanks for watching, Bill!

Thank you! Cheers!

I'll be sure to check it again. Thanks for watching, Frank!

No flaking, no cracking and it still looks great. I need to mop it again, but it has cleaned up well in the past. I have no regrets. Thanks for asking!

I have seen some of those radiator implementations for the exhaust. I just didn't want to add any additional complexity to my setup since it only gets used in brief spurts. Good point though; if implemented correctly, some kind of radiator can make these heaters more efficient. Thanks for watching!

The exhaust clamps to a thick 1" stainless steel tube, then there is an outer 1-1/2" stainless sleeve around that with an air gap. On each side of the collar, there is a heat-resistant rubber gasket that is between the wall and the collar. That keeps it from burning the wall as heat goes through it.

That's probably ok. If you watch the end of my advanced cleaning video (linked in the pinned comment), I pull some of the vinegar out of my bucket into a clear bowl. The orange bucket colors the solution; it's actually clear with a little gray cloudiness.

You're very welcome!

😂 I haven't thought of that Johnny Cash song in a while. Nice reference. Thanks for watching!

@ it was a great piece, well both are. 😆. Yours n his. I am going to buy the side mount, and I’ll watch your video again, take my notes and the Genie one, and keep them both handy while doing the install. 👍. I was cleaning my pool while listening to your video, and was about to go to HD and buy it because you made it sound so smooth. Seriously, thanks for the video!!!!

I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip!

How do you access the screw of the burner located in the back of the oven if you don't remove the floor ?

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

Absolutely. Although not the cheapest solution, adding a UPS between the power supply and outlet is the easiest to implement by far. Thanks!

@@FixItScotty Unless you find a cheap one!!

Bummer you had to do it over, but glad you got it in the end. Great job!

Glad you liked it!

I must have missed something, how is it a fire hazard?

@@FixItScotty when a diesel heater shuts down it has to go through a cool down cycle where the fan continues to blow few a period to allow the unit to cool. In the event of a power outage the heater can't complete this cycle. The manufacturers specify they shouldn't be used with a mains power supply.

I don't run this full time. The 55-amp power supply has been a good working solution. Where I live, we don't have extreme weather. If we do, I won't run it. I understand your point about negative pressure, but my workshop isn't sealed up and has roof vents - so it's not an issue. Good points though; other people's situation will warrant considering them. Thanks for watching!

I just did my rear brakes a few months ago. They don't get used much, but will rust out prematurely. The Volt techs recommend shifting into Neutral at high speeds and braking occasionally. In Neutral, the regen braking is off so the pads and rotors get engaged fully. The procedure to replace the rear rotors & pads is the same as I showed in this video. The only exception is you can't reset the caliper with a clamp like I showed. It has a screw mechanism that requires a special tool.

I may have asked you before, but what motor do you have? If you can't find anything on ebay or www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/member-classifieds.4/, try going to this site for a list of EV vendors and conversion shops: www.fuel2electric.com/vendors. The vendors may have used parts on their website, or you can send emails to these companies and see what they have.

@@FixItScotty Warp 9. Thank you will look into fuel 2 electric!

@@reno2675 Another options that may work for you is this: kellycontroller.com/shop/kdh-e/

Very cool! Before buying the contactors, watch my next few videos, especially part 18 as I made changes to my parallel pack contactor arrangement. The most common contactor to get would be the Kilovac EV200 which is a little better. Thunderstruck and many other places sell them: www.thunderstruck-ev.com/main-contactor-economized.html

That could be a good option. Thanks!

You are correct. I have a follow-up video pinned in a comment where I implement most of your suggestions. Thanks for watching!

@FixItScotty Yep gotcha...just figured I'd address it again for anyone reading and didn't see or watch other vids

I agree, I should have put z flashing between the sheet joints. Thanks for the comment!

I forgot to do that on this video, but I do show how to clean that filter in my advanced video. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yes, I did add an oscillating fan mounted high on the wall to circulate. I am a few weeks into the second season using it and it still works great.

Good question. This may be beyond my limited expertise. The only thing I can think of that would cause ABS issues would be if the pads are worn way down. Other than that, you may need a pro to check it.

Me too, I am thinking it is the repressurization pump.. did you get it figured out?

I brakes work fine until low speed under 10 mph then you hear the repressureization pump kick on then it throws the stabilitrak code

Washer don't need to be the ring cuts it damages it regardless rings not needed according to GM since all this

Thanks for the kind words. Feel free to ask questions on any of my videos. Good luck!

Good question... I can't think of a reason not to. I would recommend putting some anti seize lubricant on the threads to ensure the hose can eventually be removed without binding up.

What a coincidence; I was just discussing this in a Facebook post. I believe in the video I said it was 3/16" inner diameter fuel line. I bought it by the foot at the local auto parts store. Bring your fuel filter to the store to confirm fitment

😄 Yes, I had just finished rebuilding my garage. We'll see how long it stays clean! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! Yes that other gauge was a disappointment but I may be able to use it on a future solar storage project.

That's a good point. I may change this to a non-conductive coolant later. The area where I have this coolant routed has sealed high-voltage boxes and components. If I did a liquid-cooled battery system, I would definitely want the non-conductive coolant.