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I must have missed something, how is it a fire hazard?

I don't run this full time. The 55-amp power supply has been a good working solution. Where I live, we don't have extreme weather. If we do, I won't run it. I understand your point about negative pressure, but my workshop isn't sealed up and has roof vents - so it's not an issue. Good points though; other people's situation will warrant considering them. Thanks for watching!

I just did my rear brakes a few months ago. They don't get used much, but will rust out prematurely. The Volt techs recommend shifting into Neutral at high speeds and braking occasionally. In Neutral, the regen braking is off so the pads and rotors get engaged fully. The procedure to replace the rear rotors & pads is the same as I showed in this video. The only exception is you can't reset the caliper with a clamp like I showed. It has a screw mechanism that requires a special tool.

I may have asked you before, but what motor do you have? If you can't find anything on ebay or www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/member-classifieds.4/, try going to this site for a list of EV vendors and conversion shops: www.fuel2electric.com/vendors. The vendors may have used parts on their website, or you can send emails to these companies and see what they have.

@@FixItScotty Warp 9. Thank you will look into fuel 2 electric!

Very cool! Before buying the contactors, watch my next few videos, especially part 18 as I made changes to my parallel pack contactor arrangement. The most common contactor to get would be the Kilovac EV200 which is a little better. Thunderstruck and many other places sell them: www.thunderstruck-ev.com/main-contactor-economized.html

That could be a good option. Thanks!

You are correct. I have a follow-up video pinned in a comment where I implement most of your suggestions. Thanks for watching!

@FixItScotty Yep gotcha...just figured I'd address it again for anyone reading and didn't see or watch other vids

I agree, I should have put z flashing between the sheet joints. Thanks for the comment!

I forgot to do that on this video, but I do show how to clean that filter in my advanced video. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yes, I did add an oscillating fan mounted high on the wall to circulate. I am a few weeks into the second season using it and it still works great.

Good question. This may be beyond my limited expertise. The only thing I can think of that would cause ABS issues would be if the pads are worn way down. Other than that, you may need a pro to check it.

Me too, I am thinking it is the repressurization pump.. did you get it figured out?

I brakes work fine until low speed under 10 mph then you hear the repressureization pump kick on then it throws the stabilitrak code

Thanks for the kind words. Feel free to ask questions on any of my videos. Good luck!

Good question... I can't think of a reason not to. I would recommend putting some anti seize lubricant on the threads to ensure the hose can eventually be removed without binding up.

What a coincidence; I was just discussing this in a Facebook post. I believe in the video I said it was 3/16" inner diameter fuel line. I bought it by the foot at the local auto parts store. Bring your fuel filter to the store to confirm fitment

😄 Yes, I had just finished rebuilding my garage. We'll see how long it stays clean! Thanks for watching.

Thanks! Yes that other gauge was a disappointment but I may be able to use it on a future solar storage project.

That's a good point. I may change this to a non-conductive coolant later. The area where I have this coolant routed has sealed high-voltage boxes and components. If I did a liquid-cooled battery system, I would definitely want the non-conductive coolant.

Great information, Frank! If I need to fine-tune those values, it's good to know I can just set the value and it temporarily outputs the SOC to the gauge to test the change immediately. That Intellitronix gauge has a wire that I tied to ground to get full brightness. The documentation wasn't specific, but you can tie that wire to something (not a dimmer, but something...) that would do a 50% dim. I could probably ask their support for the spec on that such that I could dim it.

You're right. That light I installed just doesn't spread well. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I didn't realize my diesel was dyed, but it is red. I don't live in a rural area, but I am in Illinois where there are farms within 10 miles of where I live, so that may be the only type of diesel easily available to me.

Thanks! I am sure my style is boring for many people, but my channel is more about education than inspiration. It's for people wanting to learn this stuff; not just watch a video and think "oh, cool".

Thanks! Me too. I am moving back onto tweaking the brakes and mechanicals to get it road-worthy. Then I need to register it and get plates on it. Coming soon!

Thanks!!

Thanks for watching! I have not had to clean my flame sensor yet, but I do that in my furnace every year to prevent non-startups. Good tip!

There is a final, part 5 video. It's on the playlist or linked at the end of this video. Thanks for watching!

I was running it today and saw your comment. My infrared thermometer showed between 4 and 500 degrees F on the exhaust. But I can touch it for a couple seconds! So I measured it with a meat thermometer and it got a little above 200 degrees F. At the wall flange, it's a little above 100 degrees. So likely the wrap lowers the temp in the outside of the pipe by about 200 degrees.

@@FixItScotty Thank you and thanks for the quick response.

Mine probably looked dirtier due to the orange bucket. I did another "advanced" cleaning video (linked in pinned comment) where after the cleaning, I poured some of the vinegar into a clear bowl, and it was mostly clear with some slight cloudiness. I have an old house, but I am on municipal water. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Both ASTM D2665 and D1785 are SOLID CORE sch40 PVC which is very important for this application. I believe D1785 can handle higher pressure (and maybe heat) than D2665. That said, all my piping is rated ASTM D2665. I never got any specific guidance from Rheem that I needed D1785 pipe or fittings; the exhaust doesn't seem hot enough or high pressure enough to warrant it. But keep in mind, I am a DIYer and neither a licensed plumber or professional support tech. So don't consider me an authority on the subject. Call Rheem support and see what they say. Good luck on your implementation.

​@@FixItScotty Awesome. Thanks! It appears 2665 is the rating for Drain, waste, VENT applications. and Charlotte brand helped me figure out a 2665 elbow can be used to connect to a 1785 pipe, and will say 2665 on it, even if 1785 is not printed on the elbow. Another lesson learned.

Thanks! Yes, my previous EV conversion was over 10 years ago... well before I started my channel.

I forget the size. But I put a link to the product in the video description.

Sorry I don't, but there are other videos that show that. Here's one example: ruclips.net/video/5HC2V4UvWiM/видео.htmlsi=bcMoqQ0Win9zPC2j. Thanks for watching!

That's true. I actually have a 'Little buddy' and used it a lot in my old garage. The two advantages of this diesel heater is that it blows the hot air to circulated it and it doesn't require ventilation like the propane heater.

@FixItScotty they have a fan on the big buddy pro, there is an O2 safety shut off and the garage isn't sealed the best anyway. This way I don't have to drill a hole for exhaust. There's a bunch of ways to get more heat off the exhaust from the diesel heaters before dumping it but I'm not heating it all the time just a few hours here and there. So that's a lot of extra work for a diesel heater for me

@@spacebike420 Good to know the propane heaters are improved. And I agree, it is a bit of work to modify the exhaust to make these diesel heaters efficient.

@@FixItScotty they still seem the best option on something mobile with diesel available though. I'll probably put on in the truck topper just for camping.

The first drive should be soon if the winter isn't too cold. I still need to fix brakes and register the car to drive on the road. Otherwise, it does move and I'm very close to the finish! Hope you are doing well and staying warm.

Great vid Scotty, I didn't realize you had done this before....I joined your channel when you were building your new shop lol

Thanks!! The only reason I haven't had issues with the condensate is because that basin sink (where my water softener discharges) is not level and always has a little standing water in tub. So by the time the condensate gets to the main stack, it's pretty well diluted. But, you're right, I should add a condensate neutralizer to prevent problems.

The manual recommends turning off both gas and power before flushing, but turning the power off or unplugging it is sufficient. Shutting off the gas is a backup in case someone turns the power on accidentally.

Good to know. If I have to replace the other side, I will keep that in mind. Thanks!

Please do take what you like! Now that temps are dropping, I am using it again and am so thankful I have this heater. Good luck on your implementation!