Chinese Diesel Heater 1 Year Update Is It Worth The Money
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- its been a year since I installed the diesel heater for the workshop, so I though I would do a review on it just to let you guys know how's its going and weather its worth the money.
The heater has been working great constant warm air and its still only using around about 21/2 litters a day of fuel which is really good as I have it running 24/7 throughout the winter. Keeps the workshop at a constant 14 -15 degrees which is a nice working temp.
I am so glad i installed the diesel heater with the cost of electric it would have costed me a fortune to heat the workshop, as it is its costing me around 5p per kwh which is really good.
hope you enjoy any questions then please leave me a comment.
#skkrafts #chinesedieselheater #lowcostheating
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These are great. Very economical, easy to install and very safe. I have 2 16 x 8 shed workshops. Only one is insulated but even the non insulated one gets toastie at a very low cost. Dont worry if you are using the power supply and you get a power cut. The cooldown isnt necessary but during that phase the unit burns off any remaining fuel in the combustion chamber and de soots for a clean burn when you next commission the heater. If you have had an interupt like a powercut, when you next cycle it up you will get a small backfire and some smoke but it will burn off with no damage to the heater. Easy to maintain too.
I love my heater it has made such a change to the workshop environment warm dry heat on demand. I agree about the power supply, I have had many people message me telling me it will cause a fire if I get a power cut. I have had a couple and it seems fine.
Thank you for your message and thank you for watching.
great update. We are now on to our second heater after upgrading to an all in one system.
Thank you hope it helped, i do like the idea of those but wouldn’t work for me as mine I located outside my workshop.
Nice update steve and thanks for coming round today Appreciate it
Thank Roy, was good to see you mate.
Every 40F you raise the air temperature for combustion you gain 1% combustion efficiency. I use warmer air from shed also for combustion. My shed is not insulated, I just installed my unit last week in an area where winter temperatures can hit minus 30 on a coldest winter day, with averages more like 20's and teens in Jan/Feb. Next year I will insulate the shop.
I chose the MaxPeedingrods 5kw unit which comes with beefier exhaust and quieter fuel pump plus unit has Bluetooth. I paid $138 for this kit added the rv or boat through hull double wall thimble and extra exhaust piece and run unit off of a $21 transformer rated for 12volts and 30 amps. I plan on adding small battery to circuit to ensure if I lose power it can properly cool down. I love this unit. I figured it costs about $8 fuel for two weeks of running 3 hrs a night. My unit is heating a 20 by 10 uninsulated wood workshop. Make sure when you first fire them up you do not breathe the nasty smoke from burn off of paint and high temp fiberglass insulated exhaust tape, it is nasty stuff. Stay out until it is done burning off all of those items listed. All in my investment was around $185 add a few dollars more for when I add a small 16ah battery and trickle charger or I can always trickle charge off a small solar panel setup. I only need battery since I have other items already. It beats an electric heater with 3.5X the btu output and it puts out nice dry heat! One should always run a CO detector when running this type of unit in case of exhaust leak or gasket leak.
Thanks Steve. I think I will be installing one in the new year. They are more than £100 now, nearer £150.
Thank you Malcolm. I have seen they have gone up in price but still worth the money.
We have an old house with timber sash windows. Electric heaters and a main fire. Freezing. 😂 costs about £15 for 8hrs of heat from the fire using coal and logs. Takes 2hrs to feel any heat. I fitted one of these diesel heaters. 21p an hour for serious heat! It's been a game changer for us. When I can get a hold of kerosene...it'll likely come down to 15p an hour. I don't know if kW hr and actual running time costs are the same but 5p an hour sounds even better. I'm not seeing that at the moment. And we have the heater on full chat for an hour then turn it down to a tick over.
they are a great heater.
You need to draft proof your sash windows, easy job give me a shout
Nice update Steve and glad it's working well for you.
Take care mate.
Cheers, Huw
Thank you huw. It makes a big difference in the workshop for sure.
The only I would say is maybe have the outlets at a lower ?ground level as you know heat rises so the area will be be hated more evenly. just a suggestion. great video.
I totally agree with you the only problem is that I have work benches and units against every wall in the workshop so unable to have low level entry points. Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed.
Any good videos out there showing natural gas bill before and after using diesel heater ?
For power supply : 12v trickle charger & a battery, seems simplest way to insure against power cuts.
As long as it works for you.
good vid, i have two going one in the garage and one in the house
all th best andy
I use the same power supply with the exception of mine being a 50A version. I also have my diesel heater hooked to a marine/rv for a battery backup using a relay. So, yes that'll work fine. Great video.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. I was thinking of putting a battery with a switch over relay.
Off-topic: WOW - your shop is a thing of beauty! Very tight and efficient and very organized! Wish mine looked like that!
Thank you for your kind words, your workshop can look like it
I have run 2 of these for just over 12 months, 1 i experimented with & the other i ran how it was designed to run, the experiment one i have tried different fuels & fuel mixtures & had nothing but problems with it, the other i just ran on diesel or kerosene & not had one issue with it!
My advice is only use them as designed with diesel or kerosene & run off a battery with a battery charger or obviously just battery if in a vehicle & you won't go wrong!
Ps mine is in a uninsulated 15ft x 12ft wooden shed & keep it nice an warm even in freezing weather!
They are a great machine, not had an problems with mine and it works constantly throughout the winter.
I have one the very same as yours , they are fantastic I use mine in a dog shed for the dogs , for the money they can’t be beat
Great heaters
Nice video. it might be a good idea if you bump up your voltage up to about 13.5ish volts (the little preset pot on your switching power supply will adjust it ) this should give your fan a bit of a boost as youv'e got quite a long run of hoses attached. Cheers
Andrew
Thanks mate I will have a look.
Cheers Steve. Trying to work out if it's worth getting for my little shed considering the short time I will be in it. Not a normal user of a workshop due to pain constraints 😭. Have not seen these that cheap anymore, you bought this at right time. Your recommendation means a lot as I know you won't use something unfit for purpose. If I miss you this Friday have a great Christmas.
Thanks Andy, great heater like you say they are a bit more expensive now but still worth the money.
If u make a small wood box and hang the pump inside it on some rubber o rings or similar. Then if u hang that box with a bungee cord you will barely hear it
Thanks for sharing
Interesting stream Steve. I hope you and your good lady have a great Christmas and a very happy new year. Thanks for all the content you have provided this year.
Thank you rob hope you enjoyed it mate. Merry Christmas mate.
I use one of these in my camping trailer and even the early summer months can get very cold and the first startup is like freezing air I've now connected a rotary switch to mine can turn the fan right down until everything gets to a certain temperature the problem is if you forget to turn the fan speed backup you can also overheat the system
That’s a good idea but like you say if you forget can cause problems. My heater is going all through the winter so not to bad. Thank you for you comment
You can buy a quieter, better quality fuel pump pretty cheaply - the ones for mini-diggers etc etc - they make a much faster, quieter "tick" that is a lot less annoying. Mount them in a rubber isolator & they are pretty much silent.
Thank you, I have heard that some of the quieter pump are not very reliable, to be honest after a while you forget it’s there.
Great little update Steve . You can get quieter pumps for them I tried a cheap silent pump which was very much quieter but it did not last that long
thank you i will look into it.
My Eberspacher diesel heater has a pump described by the manufacturer as “near silent” it is mounted underneath our VW T5 and I can honestly say I’ve never heard the pump either inside or outside the vehicle, it might be worth trying an Eberspacher pump if the noise bothers you.
Buy the green pump with the built-in filter. It will be quiet after that.
Thanks for the advice.
Could you tell us more about the green pump with the filter? I could not find it. TIA!
@kcarter016 sorry I am unable to tell you about that pump as I have not used it. I think they are available on eBay.
Have you replaced that pump with a quieter one yet?
No, still working strong. I don’t hear it while I am in the workshop.
Thanks for that Steve. This is something I've been considering for a while now. Do you have a link for the heater and PSU please?
Mine came from eBay mate. They are all the same and selling for around £140 now. Mine is the 8kw heater with a 15ltr tank.
@@SKKrafts Thanks Steve 👍🏻
I cant help but think you've way too much ducting for that heater fan to push the air through.
How much more efficient would have been to place the heater in your workshop??
It certainty an impressive set up but overkill IS still overkill.
Thanks for your comment, a couple of things, first one is the reason for me to put the heater where I did was to heat the small area it’s located in also I dont have any wall space within my workshop to mount the heater. Second as for ducting there is a very good flow of air which is expelled out of the ducting when heater running and that’s the reason for fans to push air and not pull. When pushing air you can push further with less force on the motor. When you look at caravans and motor homes they push much further. Anyway it has been running for 4 years without any problems so I think it must be ok.
Doing what you you’re asking of it. That pump knocking like that would bother me I think. Other than that it looks to be an excellent solution in an unheated shop.
you get use to it in a few days and dont really hear it.
keep up the good work great vids
Thank you.
Any way to dampen the knocking sound? Perhaps some fire rated insulation around it?
You can get quieter pumps but after a while you don’t hear it.
Ok, so I got one. Have a 45m2 well insulated garage in Norway, and it cant get the temp up to 10-11celcsius even when its 0-4c outside? Not very impressed so far. My 3kW buildersfan does the job in around an hour. What do you recon? How hot is the ait coming out at max ??
i Am sorry to hear this, when my heater is running at full power i cant bear my hand over the outlet. is your heater mounted inside or outside. is it drawing in air for the cold out side of from the garage.
@@SKKrafts inside. Yeah its kinda a downer
Those battery backup switches are not quick enough to keep the unit going. You need to float a battery like in an RV system.
Nice video, thanx. A quick question. How long can you run a diesel heart for, before you need to turn it off so its doesn't over heat?
Thank you. If it’s set up correctly it shouldn’t over heat. Mine is left running 24/7 all through the winter with no problems. It has air blowing across the heat exchange all the time. If the fan fails it will shut down.
@@SKKrafts Thanx for the reply. great info!
The fact it lasted a year and heated your space, yes it is worth the $100
My heater is now on its third year and still going strong.
@@SKKrafts mines now onto its 5 year with no issues at all…. It runs for a minimum of 12 hours a day
I am hoping mine keeps going for that amount of time.
What is the cost of the electric supply?
Not sure as I brought it over three years ago.
@SKKrafts I mean the running cost. 20 amps supplies are not cheap to run. Maybe 100w or more. 1kw per 10 hours.
It doesn’t run at 20amps all the time only on startup, normally running around 1.5-2 amps per hour when running. But since I have installed the thermostat machine only runs a few hours a day.
Ok I have heater now running on Kerosene £1.15 litre using bit of red for lubrication of fuel pump £1.35 BP garage but some say Kerosene will wear out pump quickly?I have just got some Exocet additive for Kerosene so question is have you had any problems with pump wear/stopping etc on Kerosene?Great video also thanks for the efforts.Mine is outside so needs warm air feed from inside
I have had mine running for well over a year and no problems with the pump so far.
how is it powered? does it go from the heater with a 12v plug to an inverter,into a 240v standard socke?
240v power supply which supplies a 12v feed to the heater.
In my van i put my pump outside underneath bolted with the rubber to the frame and have to be completely still to hear it tick.
Nice job, I have done the same to mine mounted on a rubber mount nice and quiet now.
thanks for the info
Do you run it on diesal or kero
I run it on heating oil.
I'm planning on buying one. Is there a certain brand I should buy?
I don’t think so, Amazon and eBay do a good range of the heaters. Not sure what make mine is but it’s been no problem. If you maintain it regularly then it should be fine.
Planar, autotherm, webasto, eberspacher, espar. If you have money to spare.
Or you can go with the chinese knockoffs.
Mine has just packed up after 1 week. I will probably have to get a new controller.
Oh man that’s not good. Go back to the people you brought it from.
Great video thanks!
On the question of battery backup, could you not just adjust the voltage of the power supply to, say 12..7 volts, and then connect a 12 volt battery to the same terminals that connect the heater? That way, in the event of a power failure, the battery would just take over. The battery would also be kept fully charged by the power supply when power is on.
Thank you glad you enjoyed. Not sure if that would work as you don’t want to keep charging the bay if you are not using it as it would over heat and damage the battery. You would need to have some sort of trickle charge relay in place to protect the battery I think.
You could float it at 13.6v. This would keep the battery full over time and not overcharge it once full.
To stop the battery being drained at all (except for glow plug heating time) the charger would be 5 to 10 amps.
You could use a ~$50-100 10 amp bench power supply, set the voltage to 13.6v and set current to maximum.
You could also use a ~$250 100ah 12v lifepo4 battery to last a long time if there's a power outage, as well as lasting most likely many years.
Or a cheaper solution would be a car battery and a cheap 10 amp car battery charger.
@@SKKrafts Mine works fine with an intelligent trickle charger connected to the battery and mines been like that for a couple of years. And when we have a power cut we can still heat the house, and yes we do have have power cut's as rural areas are always cut off first!
@@jimmybrad156 Like my system however it has to be at least a 10 amp charger also if you have a power cut "Don't" turn it off but turn it right down and your battery will last far longer before it needs charging as it's not having to go through the start up routine.
Good review 🛠👍😊
Thank you
Keep waiting for the video where someone says they told their insurance company. I have seen a small Electric Car with one of these installed, I have seen houses with these installed inside and outside. Still waiting for someone to inform their insurance company they have a home-made boiler system based on diesel fuel cobbled-together in their house, or right outside. If they don’t like slow-growing trees, they’re gonna love these things. I put the wording here, as I believe the insurance company assessor will view it. There have been many explosions over the years, from people tinkering with gas boiler installations etc. Buildings blown apart, houses ripped out from the row, and people killed. An insurance company will think two things: one, explosive issues; two, carbon monoxide gas leeching or outright produced, either right away due to insufficient combustion, or over time as soot etc builds up and they work less efficiently.
The worst I have seen, is where one proponent tries to increase the efficiency of the unit. They extract more heat from the exhaust. Again, I would say the insurance company would say the obvious, which is ‘Cooling the exhaust gases means less soot leaves the vicinity of the heater, and the more complex pipework can lead to unexpected issues’. EG condensation inside the pipes, eventually rot of the pipes, and then gases leak out earlier in the exhaust pipe than was intended or foreseen. I reiterate, I am a fan of this sort of ingenuity. I just know insurance companies though.
I got pulled up for changing the wheels on my car. The new wheels had wider tyres and gripped the road better, this did not matter, the insurance company latched on to this and worse, took it as a sign I was up to other ‘no good’ things ie chipping the vehicle etc - which I wasn’t, I just noticed it slid a bit on corners despite having good tread, and put bigger wider wheels on, it went a lot better. The insurance company are pretty ‘straight-laced’ as we might say. The fact, that the likes of Grenfell Tower got insured seemingly without issue, should astonish us all. It seems all it took to build with inflammable and dangerous materials, was a minuscule saving of about $100,000 dollars (one hundred thou) and a decent evening dinner with the sales woman of the insulation supplier concerned, chatting up the boring Councillor or Building inspector, or whomever, one evening. 100 people dead or something. An issue, replicated throughout the UK, and not fixed yet. Dozens of similar towering inferno blocks, waiting to still happen, years later, and tenants being asked to foot $20,000 bills to fix it.
So, no, insurance companies make little sense, but they are conservative about things, and home-made DIY heaters, bringing diesel fuel in the vicinity of homes, or even inside the property, or even just exhausting the gasses nearby, they will crack up at, is my immediate view. I mean, try them and see. Nobody reading this, even doubts it I’d guess. Bummer, but they will be on the look-out for this crud, they get youtube too! Take care all, don’t let it dissuade you, but the powers-that-be will take a dim view if there’s ever a payout asked for.
Thank you for your comment, people who install these heaters to there houses are using them because they are so cheap to run. If they install them correctly it no different than installing a oil central heating system. It’s not a home made heating system as you said because it been brought as a heating system. I don’t agree when people mess about with the exhaust system to try and use it as a heat exchanger because that’s not what it’s designed for. I have had oil fired heating system in my house for 20+ years as there is no gas where I live. It safe as long as you don’t mess about with it.
I personally don’t see the difference between a diesel heat which is installed correctly and a electric heater that’s n the workshop or home. Would you tell your insurance company if you was using an electric heater.
The key thing is install it correctly and check it regularly and have it serviced and inspected at regular intervals.
I think these heater are great for the price of them they are great heaters and cheap to run.
Wow, what an incredibly long post with no details about fires specifically caused by "this type" of heater, only general information about various faulty installations. This post is from someone who I am assuming is an insurance agent? If not, forgive me as I'm just assuming and could very well be wrong. You could just be a concerned citizen out to protect your internet neighbor or just actively seeking information. I'll assume the latter and will provide as much as I can as someone who is investigating the potential of installing one of these in a detached workshop shed for winter months.
(I'll also try to match your post length or surpass it as I'm the competitive type!)
With all that being said everything I'm going to say you could have easily looked up yourself. Let's number the points:
1. These are not "DIY" systems, they are in fact, CE certified and approved heating devices. What does that mean? I'll paste the definition rather than risk misquoting it:
"CE marking indicates that a product has been assessed by the manufacturer and deemed to meet EU safety, health and environmental protection requirements. It is required for products manufactured anywhere in the world that are then marketed in the EU."
That self-certification, and yes I realize it is a self-certification, was made by the manufacturer who COULD BE lying. But we're not debating whether this company has truthfully met standards that they are attesting to. We are debating whether, as a homeowner, you have done your due diligence to insure that you've purchased a product that is safe to be installed and used for it's intended purpose.
As for self-certification, it would be unfair to hold this manufacturer to a higher standard than we hold other manufacturers around the globe who are also allowed to self-certify their products. What would be the justification be for that call? You're a China based company? That sounds incredibly wrong.. And while while we're at it, how many products manufactured under huge names are in fact manufactured in China as well? The argument doesn't hold up. The reality is crap merchandise can be made anywhere in the world.
2. The CE self-certification gives the insurance company a blood source to suck from in the event of fire if they wish to pursue losses.
3. As I stated at the beginning, these are not inherently DIY systems. A buyer installing it themselves certainly makes it a DIY installation project however the buyer doesn't need to go about installing it themselves. If they are concerned about the safety of their installation of they can hire either hire a professional to install or have it inspected by a professional after installation.
My final suggestion is if this question is burning like an inferno in your mind is to contact your own insurance company, tell them you've purchased a CE certified diesel backup heating system to be installed by yourself or if necessary a professional and you'd like to add it as information on your policy before install. Then see what happens. Like magic all your questions will be answered.
I hope I was of some help. Oh, I didn't count but I think I may have beat you in post length! 🎉
Thank you
Given that the UK Govt BANNED Vevor from selling these in the UK, and they have NO EU or UK safety certification, then yes if you have a fire or you kill someone else with Carbon Monoxide poisoning.
Not only will the insurance companies NOT pay out, and you could end up in prison for manslaughter.
There is that....
@bricktop7803 great heater though, keeps the workshop lovely and warm during the winter months.
Or even easier, plug your 220v into an off-the-shelf UPS. Even a small one will provide enough power to go shut it down correctly.
To me I don’t see the point of that. Sorry just my opinion.
Its a great idea in theory but in a real blackout, if you thoughtfully give the heater a couple minutes of extra power, it still doesn't know the power's going to be removed in a couple of minutes, and will just continue running the pump(flame) until the battery dies and then we are back on square one with an overheating suddenly shut off unit. It needs a separate source-power monitoring lead to sample the main power to see if there is a blackout in order to know to shut of the pump first and only run the blower for a couple mins. None allow for UPS blackout or backup power switchover that I am aware. The reason it runs the blower for a couple mins is because the unit overheats and melts the circuit board if equipped as some have attached too close to the chamber. Also fuel dries on injector, eventually blocking it. As well, plastic parts may melt. And water is not displaced from the exhaust line and chamber.
@mikemotorbike4283 I think you may be over thinking it a bit, if you have your power supply on mains and have it connected to a battery as a backup, as soon as the power is lost the relay should switch over so quick the heater wouldn’t even notice it had been switched from main to battery the same as they do in motorhomes and other multi power systems.
How do you match the flow rate from the diesel to the heater's requirements? (Some type of float switch?)
The flow rate on these heaters is controlled by the fuel pump, higher demand the pump runs faster low demand pump runs slower.
@@SKKrafts oh, the pump is part of the diesel heater, I had thought it was not part of the original heater. Thanks.
It’s not but is controlled by the heater controller.
Just a thought..... If you are using the warm air from your workshop to supply air into the heater, as the air is used, some of it would be redirected to the outside (the exhaust). To replace this "used" air, which came from your workshop, cold air from the outside must be drawn into your workshop, lowering your air temperature.
The warm air that is circulating my workshop is no where near the exhaust. the air that is within the burn chamber is drawn from outside the all exhaust gases are expelled outside always from the intake.
These heaters have two air systems one for the combustion chamber and one for warm air. The warm air that is drawn from the workshop only passes over the heat exchanger to be reheated then pumped back into the workshop.
So no exhaust gasses in the workshop at all, but I would recommend a carbon monoxide detector within the workshop just in case.
Hope this helps
@@SKKrafts I now understand. thanks. I was thinking that the air for the combustion chamber was drawn from the workshop. my bad.
@awoodward37 no worries, you are not the first and I doubt you will be the last.
Do these heaters power off when they get up to temp ?
Unfortunately not they just drop down to the lowest setting and keep ticking over, you can set them on a timed setting if required.
Very Nice!
Hi. Interesting video, can I just confirm something you said, you quoted appropriately 15litres over 6/7 days that's 3.5 gallons and at almost £7.50 a gallon that's £23 a week, £92 a month?
Also you said that the unit draws around 20amps on startup, I have a battery monitor on mine and upon startup it draws just over 10 amps, so was wondering how yours is so high.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Wow you fuel is expensive where you are. I pay £1.04 per litre £4.72 a gallon. I am using around 2.5 litres a day. 30 days of running continuously works out £78. As for the 20amp draw this is what was specified to me from another RUclipsr who test and fits these heaters all the time.
Hope this helps.
@SK Krafts hi. Here diesel is £1.74 per litre that's why I thought wow that's not very efficient.
What are you running it on diesel way to expensive. I run mine on heating oil.
@@SKKrafts yes diesel, I thought after commenting you must be using kerosene or similar.
You can buy silent pumps.
Thanks I will look into it.
Does anyone know where one can buy the 75mm heater pipe in decent lengths? I can only find it for sale on Amazon eBay etc in 800mm lengths. I'm in Ireland, thanks
I go mine from eBay for n 1500mm lengths.
@@SKKrafts Good man, thanks
No worries
only need 10 A on start up,1 A to run, because they only come with 14 gauge wire wire,
I wouldn't take the supplied wiring as a reliable source of information on what power it will use....
I bought a diesel heater. It was a mixed/ unfavourable experience. First off handling diesel is always a nuisance with the smell and contact with skin clothes that invariably happens. The biggest no-no was the acrid exhaust smell which kept back tracking to the air inlet despite buying a 2 meter extension. There is the running noise of the fan and tick ticking of the pump. Added to that diesel where I live in EU is expensive and running the heater all day is quite expensive. It may work for a workshop in Minnesota, or a live-aboard-van or boat but it doesnt cut it here in urban Europe
This is hard to hear as I have been using a diesel heat to heat my workshop for four years. I have never had any exhaust fume smell come through the warm air side of the heater and as for the fan noise when working in the workshop you learn to ignore it, pump ticking can be a pain but there are ways to improve that. Cost i have been running mine on heating oil all the time which is around 70pence per litre. I have my heater on all through the winter and with the thermostat control I did last year it’s using a 15ltr tank of fuel every 10-12 days and keeping the workshop at a constant 15-18 degrees.
It one of the cheapest heating systems out there.
Can you run them on central heating oil?
Yep that’s what I run mine on.
What is central heating oil ?
It is oil the we run our central heating boilers on. Bit like diesel
@@SKKrafts I am trying to source some out. Do you use different settings for the heating oil?
These pull around 10 amps on start up never 25 amps.
Ok not sure about that but I will check.
I use a 10 amp power supply and have never had a problem.
Put spunge around the pump
Or just plug it into a small UPS
Is more cheaper to insulate your workshop.
Not at todays cost of insulation, My workshop is fully insulated, insulating doesn’t create warmth so you still some form of heat.
All I got were a lot of adverts zzzz. And got so bored I ended up closing what ever he was talking about
Unfortunately the advertising I am not in control of as RUclips deals with that. Thanks for watching.
it does,nt use 20/25 amps draw at the beginning , even the webasto heater only will draw 17/18 amps at the start . then drop down to 8 amps for 5-10 minutes, and finally settle at 4/5amps. .so 25 amp power supply is plenty enough as most chinese heaters use ,chinese heaters use anywhere up to 8 or 12 amps at start up , depending on the size of the heater. then drops to around 2 amps . ruclips.net/video/OjvcBiBAqMQ/видео.html
Better to over estimate than under. I can run other things from it.
stay humble ,have a good evening .
I really wouldn’t worry about overheating.. it will coke up a bit not burst into flames
Just stick it in full after power returns or clean the insides out which you’ll need to do anyway running it on minimum continually
Current draw is nowhere near that .. nothing wrong over spec but mine doesn’t draw over 20A ever and that’s with extra stuff off the same. I’ve got a ammeter full time I didn’t get round to removing
The only way it’s going to draw more is a brushless motor on some fancy units (not Chinese)
The initial high ampage at beginning is the glow plug.
Mine worked twice. Shit box
Mine has worked for 3 years, can’t be that bad.
No such thing as an 8kw. There either 2 or 5kw
Ok thank you for that I will message everyone on eBay and Amazon who sell the 8kw and tell them that. I will also give them your details so you can explain how you came to that conclusion.
Thank you for correcting me.
Thank you for watching my content.