Finally someone who set up the pipes correctly. Input of exhaust on top and output on the bottom. Saw way too many the other way arround, flooding the radiator over time
It doesn't make much difference. The exhaust has to go up hill every other coil in the radiator anyway, could do with a drain plug on the bottom of the rad though.
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr I don't think this is how the radiator is built. There are usually all "coils" in parallel. So the top is all connected and many ways possible to go downwards, where it all collects in a connected bottom again....hope you understand what I mean, not the best at explaining 😅
@@MoreDteTv I am not 100% convinced with this setup .. I tried this and the radiator restricted the exhaust causing poor fuel burn. I instead wrapped the exhaust with 10mm copper (forming a heat exchanger) and pumped water around that with a 12v pump and through the radiator (using a tiny header tank for expansion) this seemed to max the efficiency and prevented the rad getting full of exhaust crap too.
As a vw Audi man I think you would appreciate the way I went about recovering heat from the exhaust gases on one of these heaters. I linked two vw pd engine EGR units together and ran the exhaust gases through them. This transferred the heat into the water which I ran in a closed system incorporating a double central heating radiator with a pump. The efficiency was very impressive. I posted a video of the setup on RUclips that got some interest. It ran great last winter and fired right up a couple of weeks ago. Always appreciate the projects on your channel as well as your humour. 👍
Great idea and as a Lexus man I do appreciate your ingenuity and I know that your system will work, I use scrap plate heat exchangers from gas boiler, I don't notice and problems with exhaust flow but where possible use 22mm copper straight bore pipe. Have a go heating a water tank mine works a treat as I run long hours but at the lowest fuel consumption so the tank has plenty of time to heat up. It is 220 lts And I use the top water coil exiting at the lowest point. My burn rate is 1 ltr 8 - 10 hours and the gas boiler in the house has throttled back so have my bills, this is my third winter. Use Kerosene or Jet A its cheaper by the drum and cleaner than diesel which has Tax and additives that soot the combustion chamber. As the duct temp a few meters from the heater is less than 80 C at most I make use of PVC drain pipe to duct air through the basement up to the ground floor, it is cheap and fits nicely. Best
Hey bud yes yes yes I do like the sound of that 👍 I just happen to have 2 Ford mondeo egr coolers bolted together for almost the same idea. That is next on the list and video. Thank you mate
Hi Nathan. Thanks very much, I'm going to purchase a diesel heater for the first time this year. With your battery they don't like being left on concrete floors. For best life and performance of your battery place it on a couple of 2x3 timber blocks or keep it up on something like a milk crate.
You have convinced me to purchase a 8 kw diesel heater and a cast iron radiator and copy your set-up procedure. You are doing a great service to show other people that like to try out new ways to save money on heating. I will purchase a higher price unit to get the extra parts and better quite pump. Thanks for the great video to give advice on how to get the best amount of heat from the diesel heaters.
I've been running one of these to heat my house for the last 4 years. The only problem I've had is the plastic output pipe fittings get brittle and crumble. I run mine in 'Alpine mode on Kerosene and DERV, during the summer I serviced it. Just some very light grey/brown sooting in the burn chamber, these heaters are definitely worth the money.
Good attempt mate, but it won't work long term. There's too much back pressure from the exhaust/radiator (exhaust is too long), for the fuel air mixture to burn correctly in the burn chamber. End result is, the burn chamber will coke up, and you'll need to take it apart and clean it out. The only real way to harvest the heat from these exhausts is to keep the exhaust the correct length and use a heat exchanger to recover the heat from the exhaust. But it's a great little experement you're doing, and the video is interesting and entertaining.
I totally agree. I just wanted to add that in the manuals of my 2 heaters, they both read that you can have up to 2 meters length with the exhaust - BUT that may or may not be the same as other heaters (from what I gather, they're all pretty much the same but I don't know for sure)
Great stuff, love that kit, what a neat idea, given me ideas of having a sinlge smaller rad flat on the floor ever so slightly raised one end, as you say for condensation, wouldnt have to have the heater to high, 🤔
I ran an extra-long corrugated exhaust tube to extract some more heat, but that radiator hack is pretty genius! I might do the same if I can work out a way to do it without drilling another hole in my wall!
Ive been using a Chinese diesel heater now for just about 10 years now and the only thing ive replace in that time is the controller to a newer one the pump and the glow plug ive got mine in one of my said and it connects to my workshop ive also extend the wires to make the controller work from my workshop
Great video, 👍 I have 2 running 1 in garage and 1 boxed outside to caravan, haven't tried the radiator but looks the job, . I run Kerosene £0,69 pl, no issues since installing 2 years ago. 100% love them. Thanks for video 📹. Topman. Ps speaking control unit . That's a first.
One of the best REV.. but I need one for my cold garage and sub zero at times but I want to be able to clean and wax my car in the bad weather so I need 230v.. system. BIG THX. P.S. you gave me a new idea..
I tried exactly this but for some reason the heater didn't like it. Lots of white smoke, unburned fuel, and the heater quit after about ten minutes. Exactly the same radiator as you too. Possibly too much restriction in the radiator, I'm still working on it!
Fitted a fair few of these at my old job. Cannot grumble for the money. As mentioned by Nathan, good jubilee clips are worth the weight in gold. Also green fuel line is guff. replace it with the clear fuel line. AH YE 🤘
Hey Raymond I think they are brilliant I’ve never had a single issue with the cheap ones. Was surprised by the quality of the bits on this box, pleasant surprise. Thanks bud 👍
I’m going to use an aluminum Ford pickup radiator and attach it underneath the floor of my sprinter where I will be standing and sitting with my feet on the floor. Great job
Adding (automotive) heat exchangers is a proven concept with those diesel heaters. A domestic radiator can certainly work, too. However, I would recommend 2 changes to the setup shown in the vid: a) add a computer fan to improve airflow (right now, you only have convection) and b) add a condensation valve as you will accumulate quite a lot of liquid in the radiator = rust.
I was just looking for some errors, so don't mind me. But he does not need a fan. The radiator is enough to transfer the heat to the room. But he needs to lift the radiator off the ground to let there be convection. What would he need a valve for the condensation? He could just let the condensation run off at the bottom of the radiator. Also the liquid is acidic so any iron oxide will be bound up by the acid.
How do Nathan ? I have fitted probably 10 diesel heaters one of which was the talking one from maxpeedingrods in a friend's T6 over a year ago, by far the best quality like you say, hose clips you can actually use and a proper exhaust pipe plus a box full of accessories including gloves and heat wrap. Only issue is one side of the casing is square. Which makes it very tricky to attach a round hose to when you are doing an on the chassis Like factory installation. But any other install they are so worth the extra. My pals has never missed a beat and is plumbed into his main tank. 😮Ed .
Hey Ed 👍, yep I’m impressed with it so far and you are so right the square intake not only looks weird and if your try to get a hose on it that would be hard work. Everything else seems good with it thow 👍 I’ll be sticking it in my T5 in a few days. Thanks bud
i use a kawasaki ninja zx6r rad from 95 to 97. when you cut the flares off the rad the pipes fit perfect over the inlet and outlet. and a couple 120mm 12v 0,5a fans pushing the heat away from it. i can grip hold of the outlet exhaust of the rad and it has indeed taken all the heat out of the exhaust. note the exhaust needs to go downhill because the cooling of the exhaust causes condensation in the rad. exhaust in the rad at the top then out at the bottom and the rest of the exhaust and silencer go down hill also. like you say.
I’ve one of these models in my van, I’ve had it about 3 years now, for a the first 2 years I ran it on a power supply and kerosene in the shed then to the van great bit off kit. Only problem I have is since in the van it will not fire up on the leisure battery’s even with them fully charged, I have to start the van for 5 minutes for it to work 🫤 anyone got any ideas ? Also you can buy a kit for this brand of heater that allows you to connect to it trough Wi-Fi , the app allows you to see fuel consumption change parameters and remotely switch the heater on and off remotely ant that was only a couple of what you can do. I seen it today and how it works brilliant, to me it makes the heater just as good as the top brands Eberspacher Airtronic, Webasto AirTop, and Planar Autoterm at an affordable price. Good video.
Great vid, and such a good idea. I would like one for my shed. Would a ‘towel rail’ style radiator be better to use? As I have one knocking about not being used. All the best, mate. 👍🏾🇬🇧
Condensation? Small hole in the pipe going in the bottom of the radiator to let the water out and tilt the radiator maybe 5 degrees to ensure the water runs to the drip hole. I'm strongly in favor of reducing the back pressure on any internal combustion device.
most are about 70-80% efficient. so you get about 30-50% more efficiency from condensing the exhaust to room temp. condensation is also dirty stuff and acidic. it will slowly rot your radiator out.
WARNING: the silencer has a 'drip' hole that leaks monoxide - don't use it for an indoor situation. Aside from that I've had a Max for 4 years on a boat and absolutely love it.
Thank you for another great video Nathan. That diesel heater is a nice piece of kit. Top idea in using a radiator to capture the exhaust gas heat. I've seen another idea where they pass the exhaust through a sand battery so in essence making it a storage heater. The radiator idea does look like less work. 👍
Hey Karl, I’ve seen those sand heater ones actually I literally watched a guy a couple of nights ago using an old boiler tank filled with sand. Definitely need to give that a try 👍👍
Hi whats the nest way to connect the exhaust pipe to the rad as ive tryed it and i ended up getting black smoke from mine think its was the connection was to small goin from the pipe into the rad amd im mot sure the nest way to join ot to the rad
They probably say not to connect to a battery charger due the risk of voltage spikes. Although you'd be OK with a decent quality one. Great video by the way aswell.
Some of the electronic design chargers wont put 12v out until at least 7-9v has gone in, then they charge/output. my cheapo charger is like that. its really cheap and also blanks out most radio signals, our cctv and next doors sky tv.....they dont know its my charger lol
Have got an old Ctek Multi XS 3600, it must be 30 yrs old now, and Still raising (gently) dead car batts.. Now I'm looking for a single rad! Andyfireblade has a vid on his tube channel for a Battery backup switching module here> ruclips.net/video/jvatWWLatP4/видео.htmlsi=QjOspsY4vvEUQX-C
Your going to have issues fairly quick with the corrosive condensate rotting out the egr cooler. Probably toast in one season, not a big deal as egr coolers are cheap. Yes it dosent matter its stainless, will rot thru anyways. Any commercial condensing burner will have a plastic exhaust, and still not last as long. Cool project, just know what to expect.
Work out the internal volume of the rad ane exhaust pipes and exactly match that -33% on the air intake to the combustion of the heater then you wont end up with a massive build up of carbon
The radiator must have a space of minim 10 cm under. The hot air wil circulate down to up. Or you can put a fan from a AC unit (inside unit) to force the air to heat the room quicker.
Thanks for reply , the fans fine I switched it back on it cuts out after a few mins with same code, ave been intouch with seller ,waiting for a reply . Cheers again 👍
Nicely done, you have effectively created an air to air condensing boiler. You will need to clean out the nasty chemicals from the radiator after your season of heating. There is no harm in going for a bigger rad you will not lose any heat going to the room as long as the exhaust is cold you've captured all of the waste heat. Well done. I've worked on gas powered CHP units and use an equivalent way of capturing the exhaust heat which puts effientcy towards 96%
Diesel and gas are not equivalent. An oil burner like that will not be hot enough to make an efficient condensing boiler. The unburnt fuel and soot will rapidly plug the heat exchanger. Don't do it.
@@MoreDteTv yes I recommend the cast ones, High volume (better combustion) and a massive heat sink. You gave me a great idea for my cold garage short term heating. Thx
Si echas el humo dentro de la habitación, no hay diferencia entre poner radiador o no puesto que todo el calor queda dentro. Y poner resistencia a la salida de aire en el escape afecta al aire de la combustión... Y como el ventilador de la combustión es el mismo que el ventilador de la calefacción, es probable que también afecte a eso.
Hey bud I am a little behind the times and yes I literally watched a guy 2 nights ago build one with an old boiler tank filled with sand looked pukka. Ah man appreciate that 👍 that was a cold drive home 😂 got moaned at buy a few proper people as it had no mot ect 🤷😂👍👍
Things to keep in mind. You’re definitely on the right track to make sure the condensation can drain. Those Chinese diesel heaters and oil furnaces in general don’t scavenge heat from the exhaust due to the complexity involved making them safe and reliable. 1. Drainage. When vented outside the condensation will freeze. Eventually blocking the exhaust, typically when the furnace is off and the water is just sitting there. Traditionally high efficiency oil furnaces have a water trap inside the thermal envelope so the condensation can drain inside building somewhere. 2. Dirty. Oil produces high NOx so the entire flue needs to be easy to clean. Small inaccessible passages in the exhaust (radiator) will eventually clog even on a unit that burns very clean. Those Chinese heaters are not clean to begin with most will start so particle dense you can see it with the naked eye (smoke). 3. The condensation produced is moisture from the exhaust gases precipitating out as a dew point is met. They are corrosive so the secondary heat exchanger (radiator) needs to made of a material rated for that or it eventually rots out blocking the exhaust or opening to exhaust into the room. No one is “cracking the code” with this idea. We are just re-inventing the death trap that has put the companies that have made similar products out of business. I believe the ONLY company that is still in business that produced a 90% condensing oil furnace is Thermo-Pride and I don’t believe they make that model anymore (OHC95). Every single other company has been sued into the ground due to deaths resulted from there product.
All points noted and valid, I however have a double convector radiator on a diesel heater and it has been running without issue for nearly three years runs on clean on kerosene( 80 p per ltr ). Also it is at 1.3 hz @ 1500 any lower and the combustion chamber is running too cool for complete combustion. Acid in condensate is not that strong and the rad will last for years providing as you say the it is drained. I also have a heater running the exhaust through the boiler coil in a hot water cylinder, this pre heats the tank to a good enough temperature only occasionally need ing a boost from the electric for five minutes.. USE KEROSENE and don't burn crap oil. My consumption is 1 ltr per 8 - 10 hours, 4 meter duct temp 65 -70 C exhaust after water tank is near ambient when tank cool. If you want to shorten the life of the heater then run it above 75 %, the fan bearings will fail if RPM above 5K. Replacement roller bearings are available.
Would you be able to solve some of these problems by mounting the heater outside and running the exhaust gases through a heat exchanger to heat a transfer medium (glycol?) piped to a radiator indoors?
Greetings: Amazon has a few "portable" units also. Perhaps U can test and compare those with that unit? Since they R such current pigs, I fail 2 understand the concept of "portable" since I suspect they would kill a battery prior it running out of fuel. Thx 4 the share.
Using the heat, OK so it is how going in and warm going out, therefore it will be re using otherwise wasted heat, BUT once the radiator gets hot the outlet might lose MORE hot gases as it will go straight through the radiator. Nevertheless you will still get a gain in heat whatever.
Just watched your video. Some people are saying that the radiator will got blocked due to water build up.If that the case just set the rad so that the exhaust is the lowest point. To set the angle, pore water in the corner and check that all the is out the bottom,that the angle to set the rad to. There's no need to bleed.
Great video, this was exactly my idea but at the end I din't (yet) do it because my concern was that the radiator will rust thru soon because of acids in the exhaust. Was I wrong?
I rustproof my cars every year and I would definetely give it a fluid film (linoleum based..) shoot.... on the top and it will burn off in the inside on the warmest places but NOT where it is needed in the bottom.
Hi Lez, I found a piece of what I call gas pipe it’s about an inch diameter and it had a thread on the end (galvanised pipe) that screwed straight into the radiator fitting. I got very lucky finding that random piece of pipe in my workshop. The exhaust then fitted over it nicely. Sorry I didn’t mention that part.
I've just done this myself, I used 1/2 inch BSP to 15mm adapter into radiator and then 15mm to 22mm reducer. Put a small piece of 22mm copper pipe in to those and then you can fit exhaust over that. Sealed with gun gum paste.
@MrPhillipgraham thanks I have the 15mm tails and a bit of 22mm was found, I'm going to just glue them together for an hour as a test in case my specific heater doesn't like it. If it's ok I'll pop into Screwfix for the reducers and do the job right.
You can use a charger on the battery. BUT, if the battery is discharged and you put on a battery charger, AND start the heater when the battery is emty , then the charger cannot both charge the battery, while at the same time supplying the heater with 10-15 A. This will lead to low voltage, and can destroy the controller. If you couldn't use a charger, you could never install heaters in a vehicle, which charges the battery every time the engine runs... I use a charger all the time on my heaterbattery, no problems what so ever.
@ That would make sense. I have a power supply that provides 25A, but thought I would rather use a battery and charger in case of a grid outage, which will give the heater time to cool down, if the power is lost for so long that the battery is close to discharge
Hey bud I have a smart charger on my main heater and that keeps the battery topped up but you are right the charger definitely wouldn’t have enough power to power both. Thanks bud 👍
So that radiator works by ambient air going in the bottom heating up and exiting the top, with the intake blocked by the radiator resting on the floor, how does that work ?
I guess you mean air circulating around the outside of the radiator rising from below. On the permanent install it should be off the ground by a few inches.
@@robmule4647 according to y/t videos they they emit smoke on shutting down, oor if you use recycled oils the exhaust pipe has a certain diameter - and without acute angles [ie as a water radiator has] for a purpose.
Not 200% more efficient. With flue gas tester, efficient is meassured to 70% on these heaters. If you recover 100% of the waste heat from the burners exhaust, you will reach 100% efficiency. Your title should be: "Diesel heater upto 30% more efficient!! (Great result)" or "Diesel heater, 100% efficient (perfect result)" Your radiator size is perfect, dont use smaller to get the whole radiator hot. Perfectly you need the exhaust from the radiator to be as cold as your room temperature(or combustion intake air temperature). That way you have extracted all heat from the burned diesel and you have reached 100% efficiency.
Here is my original Video ruclips.net/video/6WrCJcfICF4/видео.html it works still after 3 years with no problem and I vever had any condensation in the first bend it is always so hot the that it could not built up condensation there.
@ Think everyone should subscribe to you we all watch the van being built. Just record pov drive etc to caddy meet up and some things Nathen does to it
@@sleepeasywithwhitenoise3860 thank you, that's a really kind thing to say. I really do appreciate you, I don't know how all that stuff works, so I'll have to ask nath. Thank you 😊
Hi Alex some of the radiator got a lot hotter with just the exhaust but the egr setup did get all of the radiator warm. Idealy I need to stick just the radiator in a sealed area and measure temps then 👍
Sorry just a quick question, what's the problem by putting the exhaust into the bottom of the radiator because hot air rises, should this be a better option ??
Hey bud I’ve seen a few videos and they mentioned the heat didn’t rise like you would think, I guess it simply just flows straight through the bottom of the radiator. I do think after time the heat would soak upwards.
I really don't like these videos that employ the exhaust as a direct heat exchanger, if an exhaust leak develops there is a very real risk of co poisoning. Personally I run these heaters externally and only bring in the hot air side to the living space for my workshop. If employing inside a Van I always mount the base through a floor turret thus providing isolation. A CO detector is a must have.
You need to lifts the radiator above the floor for about 15 cm to get it working properly. It is A convection radiator, it sucks cold Air thru the bottom And warms it UP. This way it warms UP only BY it self. You Can put the exhaust upside down, but you need to get the radiator to stay on slight angle towards the exit and add a crane at the bottom to avoid water collection in the radiator. This will make it to warm UP more evenly.😉
Hello, it depends how many times it’s turned off and on as they draw the most when you turn them on, I reckon you would get a few days including turning it on and off out of a decent battery. If you turned it on once and left it you would probably get a week. A solar panel on the battery would be good as it would keep the battery topped up. Any panel above a 100w would do nicely 👍
your videos, can you help just set up a diesel heater in less than 5 mins E 09 code came on ,then smoke came out the air intake pipe, first thought exhaust wrong way round no it's good, any idea Dte would be appreciated cheers 👍
Had one in my garage for 2 years now still going strong going to put a radiator on it tomorrow thanks bud 👍
Finally someone who set up the pipes correctly. Input of exhaust on top and output on the bottom. Saw way too many the other way arround, flooding the radiator over time
Thanks bud 👍 I’ve also seen people with the exhaust facing up 😂 filling the rad with water to.
@MoreDteTv might install one just like you did at a friends workshop soon. I use mine for car tent camping only, so no radiator needed
It doesn't make much difference. The exhaust has to go up hill every other coil in the radiator anyway, could do with a drain plug on the bottom of the rad though.
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr I don't think this is how the radiator is built. There are usually all "coils" in parallel. So the top is all connected and many ways possible to go downwards, where it all collects in a connected bottom again....hope you understand what I mean, not the best at explaining 😅
@@MoreDteTv I am not 100% convinced with this setup .. I tried this and the radiator restricted the exhaust causing poor fuel burn. I instead wrapped the exhaust with 10mm copper (forming a heat exchanger) and pumped water around that with a 12v pump and through the radiator (using a tiny header tank for expansion) this seemed to max the efficiency and prevented the rad getting full of exhaust crap too.
As a vw Audi man I think you would appreciate the way I went about recovering heat from the exhaust gases on one of these heaters. I linked two vw pd engine EGR units together and ran the exhaust gases through them. This transferred the heat into the water which I ran in a closed system incorporating a double central heating radiator with a pump. The efficiency was very impressive. I posted a video of the setup on RUclips that got some interest. It ran great last winter and fired right up a couple of weeks ago. Always appreciate the projects on your channel as well as your humour. 👍
Great idea and as a Lexus man I do appreciate your ingenuity and I know that your system will work, I use scrap plate heat exchangers from gas boiler, I don't notice and problems with exhaust flow but where possible use 22mm copper straight bore pipe.
Have a go heating a water tank mine works a treat as I run long hours but at the lowest fuel consumption so the tank has plenty of time to heat up. It is 220 lts And I use the top water coil exiting at the lowest point. My burn rate is 1 ltr 8 - 10 hours and the gas boiler in the house has throttled back so have my bills, this is my third winter. Use Kerosene or Jet A its cheaper by the drum and cleaner than diesel which has Tax and additives that soot the combustion chamber.
As the duct temp a few meters from the heater is less than 80 C at most I make use of PVC drain pipe to duct air through the basement up to the ground floor, it is cheap and fits nicely.
Best
Hey bud yes yes yes I do like the sound of that 👍 I just happen to have 2 Ford mondeo egr coolers bolted together for almost the same idea. That is next on the list and video. Thank you mate
Or use a heater matrix from a car with built-in fans
As a mercedes man I think you could just run the exhaust through a bmw 1series turbo intercooler with 2 pc fans to extract all the exhaust heat
Hi Nathan. Thanks very much, I'm going to purchase a diesel heater for the first time this year. With your battery they don't like being left on concrete floors. For best life and performance of your battery place it on a couple of 2x3 timber blocks or keep it up on something like a milk crate.
Hey bud no worry’s I shal get my batteries off the floor thanks for the tip 👍
You have convinced me to purchase a 8 kw diesel heater and a
cast iron radiator and copy your set-up procedure. You are doing
a great service to show other people that like to try out new ways
to save money on heating. I will purchase a higher price unit to get
the extra parts and better quite pump. Thanks for the great video
to give advice on how to get the best amount of heat from the
diesel heaters.
I've been running one of these to heat my house for the last 4 years. The only problem I've had is the plastic output pipe fittings get brittle and crumble. I run mine in 'Alpine mode on Kerosene and DERV, during the summer I serviced it. Just some very light grey/brown sooting in the burn chamber, these heaters are definitely worth the money.
What was your kerosene burn rate in your 'Alpine mode'?
Does that mean 24/7 runtime for the full cold season?
Don’t forget that radiator is a convector. Air chimneys up the centre . But you do need to allow air to get in the bottom of the radiator
Dte and more dte in one night. Ducking awesome. Friday night sorted and a heater ordered. Toasty t5 incoming
Hey bud niceone 👍 yes I’m looking forward to getting mine in, they are a nice bit of kit, better than the super cheap ones.
Great comments, As was thinking of laying the radiator flat, Seems not a good idea, Thanks
Good attempt mate, but it won't work long term. There's too much back pressure from the exhaust/radiator (exhaust is too long), for the fuel air mixture to burn correctly in the burn chamber. End result is, the burn chamber will coke up, and you'll need to take it apart and clean it out. The only real way to harvest the heat from these exhausts is to keep the exhaust the correct length and use a heat exchanger to recover the heat from the exhaust. But it's a great little experement you're doing, and the video is interesting and entertaining.
I totally agree. I just wanted to add that in the manuals of my 2 heaters, they both read that you can have up to 2 meters length with the exhaust - BUT that may or may not be the same as other heaters (from what I gather, they're all pretty much the same but I don't know for sure)
A solution is to swap out the fan for one that draws more current, and hence can overcome the extra resistance of the radiator and extended exhaust.
Thanks for the great review/ setup explanation that was full of tips and unbiased...GREAT JOB
Thanks Thomas my pleasure 👍
Great stuff, love that kit, what a neat idea, given me ideas of having a sinlge smaller rad flat on the floor ever so slightly raised one end, as you say for condensation, wouldnt have to have the heater to high, 🤔
Hey bud, that is a good shout I like the sound of it 👍
I ran an extra-long corrugated exhaust tube to extract some more heat, but that radiator hack is pretty genius! I might do the same if I can work out a way to do it without drilling another hole in my wall!
Ive been using a Chinese diesel heater now for just about 10 years now and the only thing ive replace in that time is the controller to a newer one the pump and the glow plug ive got mine in one of my said and it connects to my workshop ive also extend the wires to make the controller work from my workshop
Great video, 👍 I have 2 running 1 in garage and 1 boxed outside to caravan,
haven't tried the radiator but looks the job, .
I run Kerosene £0,69 pl, no issues since installing 2 years ago. 100% love them.
Thanks for video 📹. Topman. Ps speaking control unit . That's a first.
One of the best REV.. but I need one for my cold garage and sub zero at times but I want to be able to clean and wax my car in the bad weather so I need 230v.. system. BIG THX. P.S. you gave me a new idea..
I tried exactly this but for some reason the heater didn't like it. Lots of white smoke, unburned fuel, and the heater quit after about ten minutes. Exactly the same radiator as you too. Possibly too much restriction in the radiator, I'm still working on it!
Fitted a fair few of these at my old job. Cannot grumble for the money.
As mentioned by Nathan, good jubilee clips are worth the weight in gold. Also green fuel line is guff. replace it with the clear fuel line.
AH YE 🤘
Hey Raymond I think they are brilliant I’ve never had a single issue with the cheap ones. Was surprised by the quality of the bits on this box, pleasant surprise. Thanks bud 👍
I’m going to use an aluminum Ford pickup radiator and attach it underneath the floor of my sprinter where I will be standing and sitting with my feet on the floor. Great job
Did this a few years ago, using copper pipes and compression fittings - very steam punk. Temperature at output around 40-50c.
Excellent demonstration.Brilliant for a workshop 👍.
Great experiment.
Try to let the exhaust on the bottom and let it out on top. See will it make a difference.
Another great video. Excited to see the installation.
Hi Nathan great bit of kit looking forward to you fitting it into your T5 AHYE!👍🏻
Thanks Paul that will be Fridays video 👍👍
Big heat exchanger is good, but needs huge fan, for air circulation.
Adding (automotive) heat exchangers is a proven concept with those diesel heaters. A domestic radiator can certainly work, too. However, I would recommend 2 changes to the setup shown in the vid: a) add a computer fan to improve airflow (right now, you only have convection) and b) add a condensation valve as you will accumulate quite a lot of liquid in the radiator = rust.
I was just looking for some errors, so don't mind me. But he does not need a fan. The radiator is enough to transfer the heat to the room. But he needs to lift the radiator off the ground to let there be convection.
What would he need a valve for the condensation? He could just let the condensation run off at the bottom of the radiator. Also the liquid is acidic so any iron oxide will be bound up by the acid.
On the final version with the radiator higher up you would get more convection from underneath.
Hi bud yes your so right , air would them pass through it. Thanks bud 👍
How do Nathan ?
I have fitted probably 10 diesel heaters one of which was the talking one from maxpeedingrods in a friend's T6 over a year ago, by far the best quality like you say, hose clips you can actually use and a proper exhaust pipe plus a box full of accessories including gloves and heat wrap.
Only issue is one side of the casing is square. Which makes it very tricky to attach a round hose to when you are doing an on the chassis Like factory installation.
But any other install they are so worth the extra.
My pals has never missed a beat and is plumbed into his main tank. 😮Ed .
Hey Ed 👍, yep I’m impressed with it so far and you are so right the square intake not only looks weird and if your try to get a hose on it that would be hard work. Everything else seems good with it thow 👍 I’ll be sticking it in my T5 in a few days. Thanks bud
i use a kawasaki ninja zx6r rad from 95 to 97. when you cut the flares off the rad the pipes fit perfect over the inlet and outlet. and a couple 120mm 12v 0,5a fans pushing the heat away from it. i can grip hold of the outlet exhaust of the rad and it has indeed taken all the heat out of the exhaust. note the exhaust needs to go downhill because the cooling of the exhaust causes condensation in the rad. exhaust in the rad at the top then out at the bottom and the rest of the exhaust and silencer go down hill also. like you say.
Hey bud that’s an awesome idea I like that a lot 👍
I’ve one of these models in my van, I’ve had it about 3 years now, for a the first 2 years I ran it on a power supply and kerosene in the shed then to the van great bit off kit. Only problem I have is since in the van it will not fire up on the leisure battery’s even with them fully charged, I have to start the van for 5 minutes for it to work 🫤 anyone got any ideas ? Also you can buy a kit for this brand of heater that allows you to connect to it trough Wi-Fi , the app allows you to see fuel consumption change parameters and remotely switch the heater on and off remotely ant that was only a couple of what you can do. I seen it today and how it works brilliant, to me it makes the heater just as good as the top brands Eberspacher Airtronic, Webasto AirTop, and Planar Autoterm at an affordable price. Good video.
Great vid, and such a good idea. I would like one for my shed. Would a ‘towel rail’ style radiator be better to use? As I have one knocking about not being used.
All the best, mate. 👍🏾🇬🇧
Would be very interesting to see how big of a radiator you could heat. I run my diesel heaters all day, so it has a long time to heat it up.
Make sure the carbon monoxide alarm is at the highest point in your van/space.
I ran a generator in this manner and learnt my lesson.
Condensation? Small hole in the pipe going in the bottom of the radiator to let the water out and tilt the radiator maybe 5 degrees to ensure the water runs to the drip hole. I'm strongly in favor of reducing the back pressure on any internal combustion device.
most are about 70-80% efficient.
so you get about 30-50% more efficiency from condensing the exhaust to room temp.
condensation is also dirty stuff and acidic.
it will slowly rot your radiator out.
WARNING: the silencer has a 'drip' hole that leaks monoxide - don't use it for an indoor situation. Aside from that I've had a Max for 4 years on a boat and absolutely love it.
If you raise the radiator several inches off of the ground you will get better convection through the radiator and quicker heat into the room.
Thank you for another great video Nathan. That diesel heater is a nice piece of kit. Top idea in using a radiator to capture the exhaust gas heat. I've seen another idea where they pass the exhaust through a sand battery so in essence making it a storage heater. The radiator idea does look like less work. 👍
Hey Karl, I’ve seen those sand heater ones actually I literally watched a guy a couple of nights ago using an old boiler tank filled with sand. Definitely need to give that a try 👍👍
You've invented the CONDENSER BOILER!
Am două încălzitoare vevor iar ideea cu caloriferul am să o pun în funcțiune , mulțumesc frumos pentru idee🤝👏👍
What fitting did you use to connect to the radiator to the exhaust pipe in and out looks a good set up
Hi whats the nest way to connect the exhaust pipe to the rad as ive tryed it and i ended up getting black smoke from mine think its was the connection was to small goin from the pipe into the rad amd im mot sure the nest way to join ot to the rad
They probably say not to connect to a battery charger due the risk of voltage spikes. Although you'd be OK with a decent quality one.
Great video by the way aswell.
Hey bud thank you 👍 yes the charger I use permanently is a newer style charger that’s a smart one I guess so doesn’t crank the bolts up to high.
Some of the electronic design chargers wont put 12v out until at least 7-9v has gone in, then they charge/output. my cheapo charger is like that. its really cheap and also blanks out most radio signals, our cctv and next doors sky tv.....they dont know its my charger lol
.... or a trickle charger left on permanantly ..
Have got an old Ctek Multi XS 3600, it must be 30 yrs old now, and Still raising (gently) dead car batts.. Now I'm looking for a single rad!
Andyfireblade has a vid on his tube channel for a Battery backup switching module here> ruclips.net/video/jvatWWLatP4/видео.htmlsi=QjOspsY4vvEUQX-C
Maybe try and EGR cooler and run coolant through rather than exhaust gas. Bit more work
Hey bud I actually have 2 egr coolers Bolted together for that exact reason, I feel another video coming on. Niceone 👍
Awesome look forward to it fella. 😊
Your going to have issues fairly quick with the corrosive condensate rotting out the egr cooler. Probably toast in one season, not a big deal as egr coolers are cheap. Yes it dosent matter its stainless, will rot thru anyways. Any commercial condensing burner will have a plastic exhaust, and still not last as long. Cool project, just know what to expect.
Greetings: Indeed they R current pigs on start up. Thx 4 the share.
Work out the internal volume of the rad ane exhaust pipes and exactly match that -33% on the air intake to the combustion of the heater then you wont end up with a massive build up of carbon
The radiator must have a space of minim 10 cm under. The hot air wil circulate down to up. Or you can put a fan from a AC unit (inside unit) to force the air to heat the room quicker.
Nice experiment Nathan 👍🏻
Thanks bud it seems to work very well 👍👍
Great video mate :)
Thanks for reply , the fans fine I switched it back on it cuts out after a few mins with same code, ave been intouch with seller ,waiting for a reply .
Cheers again 👍
Nicely done, you have effectively created an air to air condensing boiler.
You will need to clean out the nasty chemicals from the radiator after your season of heating.
There is no harm in going for a bigger rad you will not lose any heat going to the room as long as the exhaust is cold you've captured all of the waste heat.
Well done.
I've worked on gas powered CHP units and use an equivalent way of capturing the exhaust heat which puts effientcy towards 96%
Hey bud thank you 👍 I’ve seen a few different setups and thought I’d have a good myself. I shal find a better cast radiator and have another go.
Diesel and gas are not equivalent. An oil burner like that will not be hot enough to make an efficient condensing boiler. The unburnt fuel and soot will rapidly plug the heat exchanger. Don't do it.
@@MoreDteTv yes I recommend the cast ones, High volume (better combustion) and a massive heat sink. You gave me a great idea for my cold garage short term heating. Thx
Si echas el humo dentro de la habitación, no hay diferencia entre poner radiador o no puesto que todo el calor queda dentro. Y poner resistencia a la salida de aire en el escape afecta al aire de la combustión... Y como el ventilador de la combustión es el mismo que el ventilador de la calefacción, es probable que también afecte a eso.
RADS are old news now, the sand battery is the way to go dtetv, lovin the vids, followed since you bought the t25 ropey drive at night.
Hey bud I am a little behind the times and yes I literally watched a guy 2 nights ago build one with an old boiler tank filled with sand looked pukka. Ah man appreciate that 👍 that was a cold drive home 😂 got moaned at buy a few proper people as it had no mot ect 🤷😂👍👍
Things to keep in mind. You’re definitely on the right track to make sure the condensation can drain.
Those Chinese diesel heaters and oil furnaces in general don’t scavenge heat from the exhaust due to the complexity involved making them safe and reliable.
1. Drainage. When vented outside the condensation will freeze. Eventually blocking the exhaust, typically when the furnace is off and the water is just sitting there. Traditionally high efficiency oil furnaces have a water trap inside the thermal envelope so the condensation can drain inside building somewhere.
2. Dirty. Oil produces high NOx so the entire flue needs to be easy to clean. Small inaccessible passages in the exhaust (radiator) will eventually clog even on a unit that burns very clean. Those Chinese heaters are not clean to begin with most will start so particle dense you can see it with the naked eye (smoke).
3. The condensation produced is moisture from the exhaust gases precipitating out as a dew point is met. They are corrosive so the secondary heat exchanger (radiator) needs to made of a material rated for that or it eventually rots out blocking the exhaust or opening to exhaust into the room.
No one is “cracking the code” with this idea. We are just re-inventing the death trap that has put the companies that have made similar products out of business. I believe the ONLY company that is still in business that produced a 90% condensing oil furnace is Thermo-Pride and I don’t believe they make that model anymore (OHC95). Every single other company has been sued into the ground due to deaths resulted from there product.
All points noted and valid, I however have a double convector radiator on a diesel heater and it has been running without issue for nearly three years runs on clean on kerosene( 80 p per ltr ). Also it is at 1.3 hz @ 1500 any lower and the combustion chamber is running too cool for complete combustion.
Acid in condensate is not that strong and the rad will last for years providing as you say the it is drained. I also have a heater running the exhaust through the boiler coil in a hot water cylinder, this pre heats the tank to a good enough temperature only occasionally need ing a boost from the electric for five minutes.. USE KEROSENE and don't burn crap oil.
My consumption is 1 ltr per 8 - 10 hours, 4 meter duct temp 65 -70 C exhaust after water tank is near ambient when tank cool. If you want to shorten the life of the heater then run it above 75 %, the fan bearings will fail if RPM above 5K. Replacement roller bearings are available.
Would you be able to solve some of these problems by mounting the heater outside and running the exhaust gases through a heat exchanger to heat a transfer medium (glycol?) piped to a radiator indoors?
Greetings: Amazon has a few "portable" units also. Perhaps U can test and compare those with that unit? Since they R such current pigs, I fail 2 understand the concept of "portable" since I suspect they would kill a battery prior it running out of fuel. Thx 4 the share.
With heat rises wouldn’t the exhaust be better going in at the bottom of the rad ?
Might you have a link for the radiator?
Using the heat, OK so it is how going in and warm going out, therefore it will be re using otherwise wasted heat, BUT once the radiator gets hot the outlet might lose MORE hot gases as it will go straight through the radiator. Nevertheless you will still get a gain in heat whatever.
What is the running cost per kWh? How does it compare to a 4-500% efficient mini-split a/c unit? Is it worth the smoke and pollution?
Just watched your video. Some people are saying that the radiator will got blocked due to water build up.If that the case just set the rad so that the exhaust is the lowest point. To set the angle, pore water in the corner and check that all the is out the bottom,that the angle to set the rad to. There's no need to bleed.
Great idea. Would you post a link for the radiator. I am in the US and cant locate one. Thanks
A link would be great
What’s happening to all your condensation?
Great video, this was exactly my idea but at the end I din't (yet) do it because my concern was that the radiator will rust thru soon because of acids in the exhaust. Was I wrong?
Takes about 10 years for it to rusr through,
I rustproof my cars every year and I would definetely give it a fluid film (linoleum based..) shoot.... on the top and it will burn off in the inside on the warmest places but NOT where it is needed in the bottom.
For those trying this at home, please exit the exhaust pipe to the outside space, same with the air input pipe, otherwise your going to die
Input wont give out CM
👍👍,would you try to make a system to make warm water from exhaust heat ( maybe a boiler)
Greetings from 🇳🇱
Hey bud I have a water heater coming very soon for the water heating. Thanks mate 🇳🇱
The radiator will fill up with carbon very quickly and stop the heater from running, Flush the radiator on a regular basis,
Not if you run kerosene, ask me how I know, 😁
I shal keep an eye on it when I install full time, I’ve seen people using kerosene I have just been googling prices 😊 a lot cheaper than diesel.
@@MrSlugbaitwas going to say the same thing 😂😮
was wondering about how to get a gas tight seal on the radiator(with a T) and that bit was timelapsed!
Hi Lez, I found a piece of what I call gas pipe it’s about an inch diameter and it had a thread on the end (galvanised pipe) that screwed straight into the radiator fitting. I got very lucky finding that random piece of pipe in my workshop. The exhaust then fitted over it nicely. Sorry I didn’t mention that part.
@@MoreDteTv i can't complain at your luck as I was driving to work the other morning I saw 2 rads next to a skip with mounting HW.....
World of skip. I do a lot of shopping there
I've just done this myself, I used 1/2 inch BSP to 15mm adapter into radiator and then 15mm to 22mm reducer. Put a small piece of 22mm copper pipe in to those and then you can fit exhaust over that. Sealed with gun gum paste.
@MrPhillipgraham thanks I have the 15mm tails and a bit of 22mm was found, I'm going to just glue them together for an hour as a test in case my specific heater doesn't like it. If it's ok I'll pop into Screwfix for the reducers and do the job right.
what adapter is needed to connect exhaust to radiator? possibly the most important but left out part of this video
Ran mine 2 winters in my garage with a battery charger on the battery finally bought a power supply .
Nice bud 👍
Oh no ! RUclipsr beard incoming 😎
I’ve recently turned 40 and my beard has only just started to grow 😂
You can use a charger on the battery. BUT, if the battery is discharged and you put on a battery charger, AND start the heater when the battery is emty , then the charger cannot both charge the battery, while at the same time supplying the heater with 10-15 A.
This will lead to low voltage, and can destroy the controller.
If you couldn't use a charger, you could never install heaters in a vehicle, which charges the battery every time the engine runs...
I use a charger all the time on my heaterbattery, no problems what so ever.
I'm wondering if the instructions mean not to use a battery charger 'instead' of a battery.
@ That would make sense.
I have a power supply that provides 25A, but thought I would rather use a battery and charger in case of a grid outage, which will give the heater time to cool down, if the power is lost for so long that the battery is close to discharge
Hey bud I have a smart charger on my main heater and that keeps the battery topped up but you are right the charger definitely wouldn’t have enough power to power both. Thanks bud 👍
Nice wa_er sepera_or😂 you could put sand in a tray and set that on top of your radiator with a small fan behind it for added stored heat.
Hey bud haha my bad English 😂 common as much, I’ve seen a couple of videos on sand heaters. I’m going to look into that 👍
@7:18 As an American, i’m dying 😂😂😂😂😂
So that radiator works by ambient air going in the bottom heating up and exiting the top, with the intake blocked by the radiator resting on the floor, how does that work ?
the radiator will block w/soot and oil after 20 hrs of use so it wont matter
@@The.Word.1Way.2386 I doubt that very much, they burn quite clean
I guess you mean air circulating around the outside of the radiator rising from below. On the permanent install it should be off the ground by a few inches.
@@robmule4647 according to y/t videos they they emit smoke on shutting down, oor if you use recycled oils
the exhaust pipe has a certain diameter - and without acute angles [ie as a water radiator has] for a purpose.
Not 200% more efficient. With flue gas tester, efficient is meassured to 70% on these heaters. If you recover 100% of the waste heat from the burners exhaust, you will reach 100% efficiency. Your title should be: "Diesel heater upto 30% more efficient!! (Great result)" or "Diesel heater, 100% efficient (perfect result)"
Your radiator size is perfect, dont use smaller to get the whole radiator hot. Perfectly you need the exhaust from the radiator to be as cold as your room temperature(or combustion intake air temperature). That way you have extracted all heat from the burned diesel and you have reached 100% efficiency.
What if you fill radiator with some sand also?
Council house 😂👌👍
Ah ye nothing but poverty spec here 😂👌
..another hot vid!...ah ye!👍
Haha I like it 👍👍
hi what pipe did you use on radiator?
Here is my original Video ruclips.net/video/6WrCJcfICF4/видео.html it works still after 3 years with no problem and I vever had any condensation in the first bend it is always so hot the that it could not built up condensation there.
Hey bud that’s a nice setup very impressed 👍👍
Thanks great test and demo. Thanks.
On mine I could prime the fuel pump by holding both arrows on the controller
Hi Andy I have read about the heaters doing that actually I will try it next time thank you 👍
diesel heaters are a dime a doz .. where did you get the radiator? can't find it anywhere
Wicks, B&Q Plumbing merchants, if don't know where to find rads dont fo it. 😅 get a Co2 detector.
Can you use red diesel in it?
diesel is diesel if you use kerosene use some smokeless 2 stroke in it to lube the pump.
Ah yeh 👍
Just subbed to you Andy
Thanks mate 👍
@@sleepeasywithwhitenoise3860 thank you mate, I appreciate you. nothing interested on there yet though 🤣
Maybe eventually I hope 😊
@
Think everyone should subscribe to you we all watch the van being built.
Just record pov drive etc to caddy meet up and some things Nathen does to it
@@sleepeasywithwhitenoise3860 thank you, that's a really kind thing to say.
I really do appreciate you, I don't know how all that stuff works, so I'll have to ask nath.
Thank you 😊
So which is better?
The EGR or this?
Hi Alex some of the radiator got a lot hotter with just the exhaust but the egr setup did get all of the radiator warm. Idealy I need to stick just the radiator in a sealed area and measure temps then 👍
Sorry just a quick question, what's the problem by putting the exhaust into the bottom of the radiator because hot air rises, should this be a better option ??
Hey bud I’ve seen a few videos and they mentioned the heat didn’t rise like you would think, I guess it simply just flows straight through the bottom of the radiator. I do think after time the heat would soak upwards.
The link for the heater is dead.
Thank you
Thanks Tony 👍
You get about added 10% more with that setup.
Hey Michael I may have been abit ott with the numbers I saw a couple of other videos and they said similar so I won’t lie I jumped on the bandwagon 👍
Interesting, Thanks
Thanks bill 👍
I really don't like these videos that employ the exhaust as a direct heat exchanger, if an exhaust leak develops there is a very real risk of co poisoning.
Personally I run these heaters externally and only bring in the hot air side to the living space for my workshop.
If employing inside a Van I always mount the base through a floor turret thus providing isolation.
A CO detector is a must have.
You need to lifts the radiator above the floor for about 15 cm to get it working properly. It is A convection radiator, it sucks cold Air thru the bottom And warms it UP. This way it warms UP only BY it self.
You Can put the exhaust upside down, but you need to get the radiator to stay on slight angle towards the exit and add a crane at the bottom to avoid water collection in the radiator. This will make it to warm UP more evenly.😉
There more opties for heating my house
Whit block heater
Quick question how long would a car battery last before needing charged was Gona get one for shed but there no electric in it
Hello, it depends how many times it’s turned off and on as they draw the most when you turn them on, I reckon you would get a few days including turning it on and off out of a decent battery. If you turned it on once and left it you would probably get a week. A solar panel on the battery would be good as it would keep the battery topped up. Any panel above a 100w would do nicely 👍
100 ah lead acid battery on continues use 48 hrs max (electrical engineer)
Add a small solar charger to trickle charge.
your videos, can you help just set up a diesel heater in less than 5 mins E 09 code came on ,then smoke came out the air intake pipe, first thought exhaust wrong way round no it's good, any idea Dte would be appreciated cheers 👍
Hi bud e9 sometimes means cooking fan blocked, does the main fan spin up ok?
Where to pick up a old used steam radiator? Link?
You dont need a steam rad , he has used a common house rad , they are cheap,
Where to buy this radiator that you can connect to the diesel heater?
It's a mystery.......as they are not used in just about every F****** home in the UK.
Thanks for sharing. But wait a minute, the exhaust is NOT going outside, it's going in the room w/ you. Huh?... Mercy. Please explain. - take care