I haven't experienced the clogging issues you've had. HOWEVER, I've had several board failures and to anyone reading this, DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN THE NOZZLES. This WILL cause a short and blow the associated fuse on the board and in more serious events, it will also cause the motion controller to fail as well (which doesn't present itself in any faults). This is where it gets scary. I ordered the extruder controller board and replaced it and when I powered the machine on, the left extruder immediately started heating uncontrollably. There was no controlling it via the touch screen either. It very well could have caught fire if I hadn't powered it off. Turns out the motion controller mosfets fail in such a way that this can occur. I'm not sure if they've addressed this issue, but as you've described in your video, the support is not great and seems more like a sales department than anything else. To those looking at buying this printer, I would strongly recommend against it. Safety issues aside, this printer is not worth $5-6K. I could go on and on, but please just do your research.
For sure! Prior to me recognizing that the wire brush blew the left extruder fuse, I reached out to Raise3D and asked why it would fail and they stated that moisture in the small amount of filament residue on the heater block created a short that blew the fuse. When I tell you that I laughed out loud. Complete morons over there. I have honestly been putting off doing a complete review of this machine, but I think it needs to happen. @@folsomtech
on a similar note: I also cleaned with a brass brush. Killed the hotend controller board. replaced it and have had lots of issues now with the right extruder only. Now it has reported some ridiculous high temperatures but the hotend never actually heated. It would report zero, then 1100 degrees (yeah right) then flash red and no longer be available without a restart. I swapped hotends, problem remained. So I ended up sticking my old non hyper hotend in. finished a 3 hour print no issues. Popped in the hyper hotend that caused this whole issue (ended up disassembling it to clear it) and it finished a 6 hour dual extruder print without issues. Raise3D tech support scolds me about changing hardware without doing board level diagnostics but I needed a printer not a paperweight this weekend. To appease tech support I need to remove this second control board and do resistance checks on a couple points. Then I assume swap in the hotends that had failed in the past. Im starting to suspect that there is a tolerance issue with the hyper hotends that lose connection when hot and the print head is moving under hyper settings. I'll go thru the hoops though. Want to say the printer works great before the "who knew you couldnt clean a hotend while heating" issue. was doing overhangs and bridges with PLA like a champ. Worked great last night too. now to pull the board as instructed and hopefully not hose it all up again.
Thanks for the review. I was actually thinking about buying one of these, but I am going to take it off the list. It's too expensive to have this many issues that cost even more money to fix.
Completely agree. If a company is going to sell a product as "professional grade" for this kind of price, I'm expecting either professional quality OR professional support. Ideally both.
Greatly appreciated this review. I've been keeping my eye on the Raise3D brand for the past two years thinking I'd get one as my next upgrade, but with such high price points I'm not willing to risk it for inconsistent performance and support that you've basically described. I'm going to remove this brand from my wishlist. Thanks again! Great video.
Well, this explains why I haven't seen this printer in my feeds. The overall mechanical design is the same, and they're still using what appears to be an incremental improvement over the same heavy direct drive print head with nozzle lifter. They added ABL and a flex plate, and... higher print speeds, maybe? But 140 bucks for a hotend assembly is... not very far off from what they charged for the Pro2. But because the filament can get snagged in the short "bowden tube" in the filament path, I got really really good at assembling the old hotends and ramming clear the filament path... Edit: Are they still using that crap BuildTak? After destroying 2 surfaces, I switched to PEI and never looked back. Edit 2: I recommend picking apart the GCode generated by IdeaMaker (assuming it still generates GCode) and using that to build a Cura profile. Cura's feature set puts IdeaMaker to shame.
I also had issues with the printheads and i am now very trained to disassamble them :) Software i also see some issues for example the 2 Head printing and warmup 7 cooldown delays are not really working for me with swap time reduction. But i have to do some more experiments there The extruder power itself is good, but there where no spareparts available for that PTFE Throughts (or how they called) and mine ar a bit worn out because the extruder has massive force and make a mess in this area I have built a silicon form and i have Silikon here for nozzle caps, these caps should help also to get the printheads more clean. I don't know whether there are some available now, but if i have some more time i will make some Yours also look a bit dirty .. but send them to you from germany would maybe a bit complicated i guess So greetings over the pond
Greetings! I'm sorry you also had some of the same issues! Yes those PTFE pieces just after the extruder got really messed up in mine too. They did just start selling those as replacements so maybe check again. Not sure if maybe it's not available in all regions. That's great about the silicon boot too! They definitely help with keeping things clean.
n00b observation: this printer seems to HATE slow prints. I try to dial things down and I get heat creep and these weird jams where the filament gets bent between the nozzle and the top of the hotend assembly beneath the short PTFE tube. Cranking it up and getting the filament thru before it has a change to get warm is the only thing that works reliably for me.
I have a Raise3D E2CF and have been very disappointed with the printer, software, and the company's tech support. I made more money with my Pruse Mk3+, which was 1/4 the cost.
I bought this printer when it came out. It was the max version. I never had a more worse printer then the pro3 raise. I got a long list of issues. Raise3d was so arrogant, to even recognize the problems, even while the internet was full of raise shit. At the end when they noticed my wife is a lawyer, they rush to buy the printer back. If you ask me, this printer is a total failure, rushed to the market, no intresse in user input. You wil have more fun when buying an creality printer and trow the rest of the money in the Pacific Ocean. This printer has the specs of a 2017printer. Have a look at bambu x1 just a play toy, its 500 times more up-to-date then a raise. Once a raise 3d pro3 never a raise anymore.
That is crazy. I wish I had heard all of these comments before I bought it! Lol. I searched online for a good long term review of the machine and I couldn't find anything. All I saw was comparisons vs other machines like Ultimaker and it was just comparing specs/price. So it made it seem like the Raise was the obvious choice lol.
I'm also struggling with it. Right Extruder had a problem with a loose guiding rod. Everytime the right Extruder was lifted, the rod was pulled out a little but not pushed back. So everytime the aktive Extruder switched over the nozzle height was different to before. So the right Extruder, mid print, printed in the air and not on the last layer.... Our TPU (95A HF) keeps curling between and around the extruder wheels. I have even dropped the current of the Extruder Motors to 500mA only to prevent it getting hot and weaken the filament... We have the Hyperspeed Upgrade. Thought the Hotends would have more power. But heating from 160 to 220°C take around 40sec... My 25$ CHC Pro on my Ender6 heats from 25 to 220 in this time... This makes Nozzle switching (dual print) unnecessary time consuming... All in all I wouldn't buy it again. The sturdy massive building doesn't even help to prevent ghosting...
I've had the blob of death happen 3 different time on the hyper speed setup and it's been a pain to deal with. When I reached out nothing was done to help unfortunately.
How is your experience with wifi? I've used two of these machines and they both had major wifi problems. I can place my WAP right next to the machine, or in the same room, and the printer will say it has one bar of signal strength. After a year it just stopped connecting to wifi completely. I had the same experience with two different printers in two different buildings using two different brands of wireless networking hardware.
So far it hasn't been too bad. I have had it just disconnect a few times and it wouldn't reconnect until I completely rebooted. But thankfully nothing too crazy. This seems to be the running theme so far with these printers. Is that everyone is having very different issues and there isn't much consistency. Do you also have issues if you're hardwired to the network?
I also had issues with the printer. This is the most annoying printer I've ever used. The bed leveling sequence is slow and there are some unnecessary movements. It's unable to print a PVA support material (the filament not guided perfectly and it came out on the side of the extruder). I'ts print nice if you print slow but at normal speed (50mm/s) the print looks ugly. I don't know if it's just on my machine or you guys also have similiar experience. I have had a big blob on the extruder (yes it's user fault) and it broke the motherboard on the extruderhead (it was an expensive mistake). For that price I expect some crash detection (like sensorless homing with TMC drivers or AI detection with camera). I have problem with the printbed, it's really hard to stick the prints on it even i clean it before every print with isopropil alcohol. It's not just because of the surface wearing out fast but the base is not flat completly. My chinese printer print better and faster than this printer. If i could go back in time i would buy 3 or 4 Bambulab instead of this Crap.
They could make some small changes and make this printer great if they really wanted to. I haven't tried PVA in it but I've had good luck with HIPS for ABS. And I definitely know what you mean, if I could go back and do it all over again I would not buy this again. My Prusa printers walk all over it in regard to reliability and ease of use.
At this point I'm looking at the Ultimaker S5 or S7s but I'll have to take my time to ensure they're going to be a good choice. They cost a lot more but it may be worth it.
Pretty sure you can save all your hotends ! Just had a piece of filament stuck right in the middle of the hotend this morning. No way I'm paying 200€ just for this ! If it went in, it can go out ! The solution : -Heat up the hotend -unscrew the hot tip -remove the hotend from the machine (careful it's hot..) -put the long side of a hex key provided with the machine in the bottom hole of the hotend until it reaches the clogged piece of s*** -gently yank the hotend on the hex key on a hard surface like a table until it pushes up the clogged piece of filament. The hex key should be longer than the hotend so you'll see it go out on top of the hotend. -done The hex key is a good solution as it has rounded edges so you won't damage the inside of the hotend. Cheers.
Yep I used this exact method to clear one not long ago. But sadly I still have one that is still clogged and this method still wouldn't clear it. I definitely try to save as much as possible. Thanks for the feedback!
@@folsomtech well you have nothing to loose by yanking it with more force ! Worse that can happen, you break it. No big deal as it is worthless if it's jammed.. Best case scenario you successfully remove the jam :)
Similarly, I heated mine up. Used my heat proof barbecue gloves, powered off the machine and pulled the hotend (yeah now Im super paranoid about killing another hotend controller!) unscrewed the two little allen screws on top of the heating block, removed that, yanked the filament out, reassembled, and good to go. I could not for the life of me get the nozzle to come out, even when hot and the heating block allens loosened. Whole assembly tries to rotate and break the leads going to the connection board. Which sucks because I need to install a hardened steel nozzle soon.
I have the N2+ from 2015, and dealing with raises has been the worst experience I've ever had with a company, I have sunk so much money into my printer just trying to get it to print reliably, and I still can't trust my printer to print successfully. For anyone wondering if they should buy a Raised printer, just don't, there are so many better options. I just spent $600 in parts and i have a prusa at my office that's a lot smaller, but it works, and costs less than the repair parts on my printer..
Dang that’s really rough. It sounds like some people have great experiences and others just terrible. Seems like just a little more consistency on their end would go a long way.
the $600 I spent on upgrade parts to "Fix" some issues are causing a whole new world of issues I am trying to figure out. all new extrudes, new hotends, build plate, bowden tubes.. the whole reason I spent so much on this printer in the first place was because the CEO was there at Maker fair and convinced me to go with them over the lulzbot I was originally looking at. now I am over $6k into this printer and still can't get a reliable print out of of it. @@folsomtech
Thank you for your report. Clearly this is just another poorly run company with so little warranty or support. This unit specs read like a dream but clearly not any better than the Chinese junkers.
Hello, we were using the Fula-Flex 2.0 sheet. We have now upgraded to the Fula-Flex 3.0 sheet and it's been amazing! You can pick it up on Amazon for about $70
I’ve had a Pro3 for a little over a year and mostly been very happy with it (and their support.) I’ve gotten really nice results with PLA, PETG, TPE, TPU, PC, and especially ASA, which along with HIPS supports have been my favorite filament. The only ones I’ve been disappointed with have been NylonX and Ionic and PVA. I bought a second extruder assembly to swap in 0.6mm nozzle plu a garolite print bed to do NylonX. It works but is not as nice as other filaments. What’s the third party bed you got?
Oh good! Maybe they are working on quality control a bit. I'm glad someone is having a good experience! I ended up getting one through Fulament. They didnt have the perfect size but it's close enough that it's fully within the build volume for both extruders.
@@folsomtech Thanks. I wasn't familiar with Fulament beds. Curious which filaments it works better for? I have two of the build sheets that the Pro3 comes with - one that I put a new BuildTak whenever my hot prints (PC) have ruined it, and the other that so far I use just for nylon since I can't get nylon to stick to BuildTak at all.
I've had decent success with all materials. Nylon still needs some adhesive help though. There is a other 3rd party bed I have on another printer that has been incredible. I'm going to reach out to the manufacturer to see if they would make a custom size for the Pro3
@@folsomtech Good to know. So far I've found BuildTak with nothing on it works great for PETG, ASA, and PC, Buildtak with Magigoo (original & flex) works best for PLA, TPE, and TPU, and for nylons I have to use the garolite sheet on my other build plate, either with or without Magigoo PA. I buy the BuildTak and garolite adhesives 3rd party and then just glue them to the metal plates from Raise3D.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking for a dual extruder setup and the raise3d pro 3 was recommended to me, but after watching your vid I'm having some doubts. Has yours continued to be plagued with problems? I love my Prusa's because they are workhorses that just pump out parts. I wish the Prusa XL multi-tool printer was more widely available, but I won't get my pre-order till 2nd quarter next year. Did you stick w/ your Pro 3 or move on to something else?
Yes I still have constant issues. I still have the Pro3 around at this point just because I have nothing to replace it yet. But I am looking at replacing it with either the Ultimaker S5 or S7. But both of those don't have much coverage on their long term use either. I know people with them and have heard good things but I may just have to take another leap of faith and hope I don't get burned again. Also, the Prusa XL looks very promising and I'm excited to see how it goes in the early years of it's life.
@@marfamir personally I had bad experience w/ a Seemecnc delta printer that used a bowden tube extruder. Prusa advertises a separate extruder to use flexible filaments in its TriLab AzteQ as bowden extruders have a more difficult time w/ flexible materials; hence the reason I stay away from them. I think they introduce other variables into an already complicated process.
What’s crazy is anything else with dual extrusion that competes is even more expensive. So compared to those it looks like a good deal. Unless you know the issues that are present.
Hello Folks, we are looking to buy this printer for our industrial and mass production of PCB casing in ABS Material. What you suggest should I go for this raise 3D printer or looking for other one ?
I would say if you need it to be reliable for sure, then go with something else. If you feel like taking a risk on it I would recommend at least looking into the extended warranty and what it covers just in case. This is probably the only time I would recommend an extended warranty for anything.
All of this sounds unacceptable for such printer. It can be ok for 200$ aliexpress printer where you mostly buy a platform to improvements. But for this huge expensive machine that's bad, really bad.
I agree. For a professional oriented machine you expect professional level service, build quality and for the company to stand behind their work. They do offer paid extended warranties, so I imagine the 90 warrenty is meant to push people to purchasing extended warranties.
That would be awesome! I haven’t had the opportunity to test the Bambu Lab printers yet but they seem to do a great job! And if they could make a dual extrusion version that would be awesome.
I haven't experienced the clogging issues you've had. HOWEVER, I've had several board failures and to anyone reading this, DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH TO CLEAN THE NOZZLES. This WILL cause a short and blow the associated fuse on the board and in more serious events, it will also cause the motion controller to fail as well (which doesn't present itself in any faults). This is where it gets scary. I ordered the extruder controller board and replaced it and when I powered the machine on, the left extruder immediately started heating uncontrollably. There was no controlling it via the touch screen either. It very well could have caught fire if I hadn't powered it off. Turns out the motion controller mosfets fail in such a way that this can occur. I'm not sure if they've addressed this issue, but as you've described in your video, the support is not great and seems more like a sales department than anything else. To those looking at buying this printer, I would strongly recommend against it. Safety issues aside, this printer is not worth $5-6K. I could go on and on, but please just do your research.
Thank you for your input. I had no idea anyone was having more serious issues than I was even. That is absolutely crazy.
For sure! Prior to me recognizing that the wire brush blew the left extruder fuse, I reached out to Raise3D and asked why it would fail and they stated that moisture in the small amount of filament residue on the heater block created a short that blew the fuse. When I tell you that I laughed out loud.
Complete morons over there. I have honestly been putting off doing a complete review of this machine, but I think it needs to happen. @@folsomtech
on a similar note: I also cleaned with a brass brush. Killed the hotend controller board. replaced it and have had lots of issues now with the right extruder only. Now it has reported some ridiculous high temperatures but the hotend never actually heated. It would report zero, then 1100 degrees (yeah right) then flash red and no longer be available without a restart. I swapped hotends, problem remained. So I ended up sticking my old non hyper hotend in. finished a 3 hour print no issues. Popped in the hyper hotend that caused this whole issue (ended up disassembling it to clear it) and it finished a 6 hour dual extruder print without issues. Raise3D tech support scolds me about changing hardware without doing board level diagnostics but I needed a printer not a paperweight this weekend. To appease tech support I need to remove this second control board and do resistance checks on a couple points. Then I assume swap in the hotends that had failed in the past. Im starting to suspect that there is a tolerance issue with the hyper hotends that lose connection when hot and the print head is moving under hyper settings. I'll go thru the hoops though. Want to say the printer works great before the "who knew you couldnt clean a hotend while heating" issue. was doing overhangs and bridges with PLA like a champ. Worked great last night too. now to pull the board as instructed and hopefully not hose it all up again.
Exactly this happened to me. Such a piece of junk machine. Support is quick and useless too.
Thanks for the review. I was actually thinking about buying one of these, but I am going to take it off the list. It's too expensive to have this many issues that cost even more money to fix.
Completely agree. If a company is going to sell a product as "professional grade" for this kind of price, I'm expecting either professional quality OR professional support. Ideally both.
Thank you so much for this. I'm passing on the Pro 3. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
Greatly appreciated this review. I've been keeping my eye on the Raise3D brand for the past two years thinking I'd get one as my next upgrade, but with such high price points I'm not willing to risk it for inconsistent performance and support that you've basically described. I'm going to remove this brand from my wishlist. Thanks again! Great video.
Thanks for the review. This printer is now off my list.
Thanks for honest feedback, was considering but not now.
Thnx so much for your review ' i was thinking on buy 2 of this printers but now i will search for something els to buy .
Well, this explains why I haven't seen this printer in my feeds. The overall mechanical design is the same, and they're still using what appears to be an incremental improvement over the same heavy direct drive print head with nozzle lifter. They added ABL and a flex plate, and... higher print speeds, maybe? But 140 bucks for a hotend assembly is... not very far off from what they charged for the Pro2. But because the filament can get snagged in the short "bowden tube" in the filament path, I got really really good at assembling the old hotends and ramming clear the filament path...
Edit: Are they still using that crap BuildTak? After destroying 2 surfaces, I switched to PEI and never looked back.
Edit 2: I recommend picking apart the GCode generated by IdeaMaker (assuming it still generates GCode) and using that to build a Cura profile. Cura's feature set puts IdeaMaker to shame.
Yep still using BuildTak I got sick of it tearing up and ruining prints so I swapped it out for a PEI as well. I might try that Cura Profile.
I also had issues with the printheads and i am now very trained to disassamble them :)
Software i also see some issues for example the 2 Head printing and warmup 7 cooldown delays are not really working for me with swap time reduction.
But i have to do some more experiments there
The extruder power itself is good, but there where no spareparts available for that PTFE Throughts (or how they called) and mine ar a bit worn out because
the extruder has massive force and make a mess in this area
I have built a silicon form and i have Silikon here for nozzle caps, these caps should help also to get the printheads more clean.
I don't know whether there are some available now, but if i have some more time i will make some
Yours also look a bit dirty .. but send them to you from germany would maybe a bit complicated i guess
So greetings over the pond
Greetings! I'm sorry you also had some of the same issues! Yes those PTFE pieces just after the extruder got really messed up in mine too. They did just start selling those as replacements so maybe check again. Not sure if maybe it's not available in all regions.
That's great about the silicon boot too! They definitely help with keeping things clean.
n00b observation: this printer seems to HATE slow prints. I try to dial things down and I get heat creep and these weird jams where the filament gets bent between the nozzle and the top of the hotend assembly beneath the short PTFE tube. Cranking it up and getting the filament thru before it has a change to get warm is the only thing that works reliably for me.
I have a Raise3D E2CF and have been very disappointed with the printer, software, and the company's tech support. I made more money with my Pruse Mk3+, which was 1/4 the cost.
I'm sad to hear that one has had some issues too. I was very intrigued by the IDEX system.
I bought this printer when it came out. It was the max version. I never had a more worse printer then the pro3 raise. I got a long list of issues. Raise3d was so arrogant, to even recognize the problems, even while the internet was full of raise shit. At the end when they noticed my wife is a lawyer, they rush to buy the printer back. If you ask me, this printer is a total failure, rushed to the market, no intresse in user input.
You wil have more fun when buying an creality printer and trow the rest of the money in the Pacific Ocean. This printer has the specs of a 2017printer. Have a look at bambu x1 just a play toy, its 500 times more up-to-date then a raise.
Once a raise 3d pro3 never a raise anymore.
That is crazy. I wish I had heard all of these comments before I bought it! Lol.
I searched online for a good long term review of the machine and I couldn't find anything. All I saw was comparisons vs other machines like Ultimaker and it was just comparing specs/price. So it made it seem like the Raise was the obvious choice lol.
I'm also struggling with it. Right Extruder had a problem with a loose guiding rod. Everytime the right Extruder was lifted, the rod was pulled out a little but not pushed back. So everytime the aktive Extruder switched over the nozzle height was different to before. So the right Extruder, mid print, printed in the air and not on the last layer....
Our TPU (95A HF) keeps curling between and around the extruder wheels. I have even dropped the current of the Extruder Motors to 500mA only to prevent it getting hot and weaken the filament...
We have the Hyperspeed Upgrade. Thought the Hotends would have more power. But heating from 160 to 220°C take around 40sec... My 25$ CHC Pro on my Ender6 heats from 25 to 220 in this time... This makes Nozzle switching (dual print) unnecessary time consuming...
All in all I wouldn't buy it again.
The sturdy massive building doesn't even help to prevent ghosting...
I've had the blob of death happen 3 different time on the hyper speed setup and it's been a pain to deal with. When I reached out nothing was done to help unfortunately.
That's really unfortunate. I think at this point I'm going to look at selling this printer. It's taking too much of my time to keep it running.
How is your experience with wifi? I've used two of these machines and they both had major wifi problems. I can place my WAP right next to the machine, or in the same room, and the printer will say it has one bar of signal strength. After a year it just stopped connecting to wifi completely. I had the same experience with two different printers in two different buildings using two different brands of wireless networking hardware.
So far it hasn't been too bad. I have had it just disconnect a few times and it wouldn't reconnect until I completely rebooted. But thankfully nothing too crazy. This seems to be the running theme so far with these printers. Is that everyone is having very different issues and there isn't much consistency. Do you also have issues if you're hardwired to the network?
I also had issues with the printer. This is the most annoying printer I've ever used. The bed leveling sequence is slow and there are some unnecessary movements. It's unable to print a PVA support material (the filament not guided perfectly and it came out on the side of the extruder).
I'ts print nice if you print slow but at normal speed (50mm/s) the print looks ugly. I don't know if it's just on my machine or you guys also have similiar experience.
I have had a big blob on the extruder (yes it's user fault) and it broke the motherboard on the extruderhead (it was an expensive mistake). For that price I expect some crash detection (like sensorless homing with TMC drivers or AI detection with camera). I have problem with the printbed, it's really hard to stick the prints on it even i clean it before every print with isopropil alcohol. It's not just because of the surface wearing out fast but the base is not flat completly.
My chinese printer print better and faster than this printer.
If i could go back in time i would buy 3 or 4 Bambulab instead of this Crap.
They could make some small changes and make this printer great if they really wanted to. I haven't tried PVA in it but I've had good luck with HIPS for ABS. And I definitely know what you mean, if I could go back and do it all over again I would not buy this again. My Prusa printers walk all over it in regard to reliability and ease of use.
So which printer are you considering now
At this point I'm looking at the Ultimaker S5 or S7s but I'll have to take my time to ensure they're going to be a good choice. They cost a lot more but it may be worth it.
@@folsomtech do you have any insights into bcn3d printers
I am dissapointed hearing this about their customer service. That’s a big deal breaker for me.
Definitely, customer service is everything. Even if someone has a mediocre product but provides incredible service it can make up for it.
Thanks bud. For me Raise3D is a NO GO!!
Pretty sure you can save all your hotends !
Just had a piece of filament stuck right in the middle of the hotend this morning. No way I'm paying 200€ just for this !
If it went in, it can go out !
The solution :
-Heat up the hotend
-unscrew the hot tip
-remove the hotend from the machine (careful it's hot..)
-put the long side of a hex key provided with the machine in the bottom hole of the hotend until it reaches the clogged piece of s***
-gently yank the hotend on the hex key on a hard surface like a table until it pushes up the clogged piece of filament. The hex key should be longer than the hotend so you'll see it go out on top of the hotend.
-done
The hex key is a good solution as it has rounded edges so you won't damage the inside of the hotend.
Cheers.
Yep I used this exact method to clear one not long ago.
But sadly I still have one that is still clogged and this method still wouldn't clear it. I definitely try to save as much as possible. Thanks for the feedback!
@@folsomtech well you have nothing to loose by yanking it with more force !
Worse that can happen, you break it. No big deal as it is worthless if it's jammed..
Best case scenario you successfully remove the jam :)
That is very true lol
Similarly, I heated mine up. Used my heat proof barbecue gloves, powered off the machine and pulled the hotend (yeah now Im super paranoid about killing another hotend controller!) unscrewed the two little allen screws on top of the heating block, removed that, yanked the filament out, reassembled, and good to go. I could not for the life of me get the nozzle to come out, even when hot and the heating block allens loosened. Whole assembly tries to rotate and break the leads going to the connection board. Which sucks because I need to install a hardened steel nozzle soon.
I have the N2+ from 2015, and dealing with raises has been the worst experience I've ever had with a company, I have sunk so much money into my printer just trying to get it to print reliably, and I still can't trust my printer to print successfully.
For anyone wondering if they should buy a Raised printer, just don't, there are so many better options. I just spent $600 in parts and i have a prusa at my office that's a lot smaller, but it works, and costs less than the repair parts on my printer..
Dang that’s really rough. It sounds like some people have great experiences and others just terrible. Seems like just a little more consistency on their end would go a long way.
the $600 I spent on upgrade parts to "Fix" some issues are causing a whole new world of issues I am trying to figure out. all new extrudes, new hotends, build plate, bowden tubes.. the whole reason I spent so much on this printer in the first place was because the CEO was there at Maker fair and convinced me to go with them over the lulzbot I was originally looking at. now I am over $6k into this printer and still can't get a reliable print out of of it. @@folsomtech
Thank you for your report. Clearly this is just another poorly run company with so little warranty or support. This unit specs read like a dream but clearly not any better than the Chinese junkers.
Hi, which 3rd party bed do you use? We have issues with the buildtak one as well.
Hello, we were using the Fula-Flex 2.0 sheet. We have now upgraded to the Fula-Flex 3.0 sheet and it's been amazing! You can pick it up on Amazon for about $70
Thank you!
opening the lid will change inner temperature, on extruder nozzles... like clogging
Super video.
I’ve had a Pro3 for a little over a year and mostly been very happy with it (and their support.)
I’ve gotten really nice results with PLA, PETG, TPE, TPU, PC, and especially ASA, which along with HIPS supports have been my favorite filament. The only ones I’ve been disappointed with have been NylonX and Ionic and PVA. I bought a second extruder assembly to swap in 0.6mm nozzle plu a garolite print bed to do NylonX. It works but is not as nice as other filaments.
What’s the third party bed you got?
Oh good! Maybe they are working on quality control a bit. I'm glad someone is having a good experience! I ended up getting one through Fulament. They didnt have the perfect size but it's close enough that it's fully within the build volume for both extruders.
@@folsomtech Thanks. I wasn't familiar with Fulament beds. Curious which filaments it works better for? I have two of the build sheets that the Pro3 comes with - one that I put a new BuildTak whenever my hot prints (PC) have ruined it, and the other that so far I use just for nylon since I can't get nylon to stick to BuildTak at all.
I've had decent success with all materials. Nylon still needs some adhesive help though. There is a other 3rd party bed I have on another printer that has been incredible. I'm going to reach out to the manufacturer to see if they would make a custom size for the Pro3
@@folsomtech Good to know. So far I've found BuildTak with nothing on it works great for PETG, ASA, and PC, Buildtak with Magigoo (original & flex) works best for PLA, TPE, and TPU, and for nylons I have to use the garolite sheet on my other build plate, either with or without Magigoo PA. I buy the BuildTak and garolite adhesives 3rd party and then just glue them to the metal plates from Raise3D.
@@automaticprojects the buildtak also works well without any glue stick with TPU, just don't heat the bed.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking for a dual extruder setup and the raise3d pro 3 was recommended to me, but after watching your vid I'm having some doubts. Has yours continued to be plagued with problems? I love my Prusa's because they are workhorses that just pump out parts. I wish the Prusa XL multi-tool printer was more widely available, but I won't get my pre-order till 2nd quarter next year. Did you stick w/ your Pro 3 or move on to something else?
Yes I still have constant issues. I still have the Pro3 around at this point just because I have nothing to replace it yet. But I am looking at replacing it with either the Ultimaker S5 or S7. But both of those don't have much coverage on their long term use either.
I know people with them and have heard good things but I may just have to take another leap of faith and hope I don't get burned again.
Also, the Prusa XL looks very promising and I'm excited to see how it goes in the early years of it's life.
Hi,
What do you think about the TRILAB series from PRUSA?
@mirkonstantin I’m definitely interested in it. It has some awesome capabilities from what it sounds like. I wish I could get one to test.
@@marfamir personally I had bad experience w/ a Seemecnc delta printer that used a bowden tube extruder. Prusa advertises a separate extruder to use flexible filaments in its TriLab AzteQ as bowden extruders have a more difficult time w/ flexible materials; hence the reason I stay away from them. I think they introduce other variables into an already complicated process.
I don't seen how these are so expensive. They even have glaring issues that should not be there.
What’s crazy is anything else with dual extrusion that competes is even more expensive. So compared to those it looks like a good deal. Unless you know the issues that are present.
Hello Folks, we are looking to buy this printer for our industrial and mass production of PCB casing in ABS Material. What you suggest should I go for this raise 3D printer or looking for other one ?
I would say if you need it to be reliable for sure, then go with something else. If you feel like taking a risk on it I would recommend at least looking into the extended warranty and what it covers just in case. This is probably the only time I would recommend an extended warranty for anything.
You should think twice ...
Hi i have an question. Would be possible that you can say me how much space is between middle x axis and y axis. Thx a lot
Sure I can get that measured. You mean between the x and y axis rods? Like the height difference?
@@folsomtech yes correct.
Sorry it took so long. Looks like it’s about 18mm center to center between the x and y axis rods.
Sounds horrific.
90 days?
I’m going to give that a wide berth.
All of this sounds unacceptable for such printer. It can be ok for 200$ aliexpress printer where you mostly buy a platform to improvements. But for this huge expensive machine that's bad, really bad.
I agree. For a professional oriented machine you expect professional level service, build quality and for the company to stand behind their work. They do offer paid extended warranties, so I imagine the 90 warrenty is meant to push people to purchasing extended warranties.
If bambu ever releases a >=300mm^3 printer, raise3d is toast.
That would be awesome! I haven’t had the opportunity to test the Bambu Lab printers yet but they seem to do a great job! And if they could make a dual extrusion version that would be awesome.