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I don't think so. The biggest difference I've noticed is an increase in layer adhesion for materials like ABS and ASA. The heated chamber really helps those print even better. Also the hotend design is different I found out. They have completely different wiring and are not cross compatible with the X1C.

Hello, we were using the Fula-Flex 2.0 sheet. We have now upgraded to the Fula-Flex 3.0 sheet and it's been amazing! You can pick it up on Amazon for about $70

Thank you!

Hello, I believe matterhackers just started shipping them. Or they should be available through a local reseller.

@@folsomtech hi

Actually I'm glad you mentioned it. It wasn't something I noticed at first. But the hot end connectors are different. They are improved for sure. But that also makes the hot ends not interchangeable between the X1C and X1E. The main structure of the hot end seems to be the same but the connectors are not.

Software is the same just a different printer profile.

@@folsomtech I guess the higher Temps require a different connection. Thanks

Yep agreed. They should give you the option for open materials or the option for theirs. They are finally working that way though. I talked with them at RAPID this year and they are bringing their open material license to the F series printers. Didn't give a date though.

@@folsomtech really that is great news, sucks that you'll have to spend an extra 20k to unlock it tho

That's really unfortunate. I think at this point I'm going to look at selling this printer. It's taking too much of my time to keep it running.

They are $2,500 USD.

@@folsomtech Ty

what problems have you found with this series

The internal temperature has a maximum of 60C. I wish it could get up to 90C for some of the more difficult materials, but even the 60 has made a huge difference with large ABS/ASA parts and Nylon has been printing like a dream.

Wow that is crazy! That definitely sounds like a defective machine to me. So far my X1E printers have been working well, 🤞 I hope they are able to sort out the issue and get you a working printer soon.

This might sound silly, but it was the actual cause of the exact same behaviour for a customer. Make sure you have selected the correct printer in the slicer.

Happy to report that it's printing fine now. Issues resolved.

That's great to hear! What ended up being the problem?

Hello, those are additional X1Es. With the factory screen.

Yeah but when you look at prusa prices for half the option suddenly they don't seem very expensive have seen a video on a farm where 2 p1p where producing more end more reliably than 3 prusa printers soooo😅

Their A1 and A1 mini are decent budget options if you don’t want to go for the enclosed printers. After running both Prusa prints and Bambu Lab printers. I would definitely say both have their strengths and weaknesses and a lot of it comes down to the materials you want to print. And if multicolor is important.

Good to know! I have looked into those printers and there prices aren’t to bad but i think it might be worth it to sped an extra $100 or so for the p1p but thanks for the information @@folsomtech

Yes, the only way to get them currently would be from a local reseller. My business (Folsom Design & Consulting) is located in WA State and we purchased them from Engitype located in Gig Harbor WA. They are an authorized Bambu reseller.

The main body is exactly the same. The main draw for me was the activity heated chamber. So there is an additional active heater that can maintain the chamber at 60c. And there is some more heavy duty filtration. Those are the two biggest things.

sounds good but here in canada it sells for 3200.00 with ams.@@folsomtech

x1e looks better in black!

Kind of. It is used for a small amount of print farm activities but also a lot of prototyping.

I understand your point of view. I think some people like to see what the process is like to get something prepped for use, but I definitely get it’s not for everyone. My plan is to review the unit once I’ve spent some time running them.

I agree pretty dumb and useless to not say a word.

I understand what you are saying but I'm pretty sure nobody forced you to watch the video. Hey if it's not your thing then maybe go watch some gold digger videos instead. Some people like see this stuff.

So that he can get that printer for free probbly

I wish it was free! lol

I do miss the gummy bears! They are a nice treat!

Hmm I wonder, I have lots of photos from a long time ago but I regularly use both iPhone and Android. But that’s an interesting take.

It will be interesting to see how it lasts. I don’t run the Bambu crazy fast like most people. I run it at reasonable speeds to increase quality. So we’ll see if that helps at all lol.

@@folsomtechsame but also the materials I am printing with are for slow printing speeds.

I'm sad to hear that one has had some issues too. I was very intrigued by the IDEX system.

So far it hasn't been too bad. I have had it just disconnect a few times and it wouldn't reconnect until I completely rebooted. But thankfully nothing too crazy. This seems to be the running theme so far with these printers. Is that everyone is having very different issues and there isn't much consistency. Do you also have issues if you're hardwired to the network?

Thank you for your input. I had no idea anyone was having more serious issues than I was even. That is absolutely crazy.

For sure! Prior to me recognizing that the wire brush blew the left extruder fuse, I reached out to Raise3D and asked why it would fail and they stated that moisture in the small amount of filament residue on the heater block created a short that blew the fuse. When I tell you that I laughed out loud. Complete morons over there. I have honestly been putting off doing a complete review of this machine, but I think it needs to happen. @@folsomtech

on a similar note: I also cleaned with a brass brush. Killed the hotend controller board. replaced it and have had lots of issues now with the right extruder only. Now it has reported some ridiculous high temperatures but the hotend never actually heated. It would report zero, then 1100 degrees (yeah right) then flash red and no longer be available without a restart. I swapped hotends, problem remained. So I ended up sticking my old non hyper hotend in. finished a 3 hour print no issues. Popped in the hyper hotend that caused this whole issue (ended up disassembling it to clear it) and it finished a 6 hour dual extruder print without issues. Raise3D tech support scolds me about changing hardware without doing board level diagnostics but I needed a printer not a paperweight this weekend. To appease tech support I need to remove this second control board and do resistance checks on a couple points. Then I assume swap in the hotends that had failed in the past. Im starting to suspect that there is a tolerance issue with the hyper hotends that lose connection when hot and the print head is moving under hyper settings. I'll go thru the hoops though. Want to say the printer works great before the "who knew you couldnt clean a hotend while heating" issue. was doing overhangs and bridges with PLA like a champ. Worked great last night too. now to pull the board as instructed and hopefully not hose it all up again.

Exactly this happened to me. Such a piece of junk machine. Support is quick and useless too.

Yep still using BuildTak I got sick of it tearing up and ruining prints so I swapped it out for a PEI as well. I might try that Cura Profile.

Yes I still have constant issues. I still have the Pro3 around at this point just because I have nothing to replace it yet. But I am looking at replacing it with either the Ultimaker S5 or S7. But both of those don't have much coverage on their long term use either. I know people with them and have heard good things but I may just have to take another leap of faith and hope I don't get burned again. Also, the Prusa XL looks very promising and I'm excited to see how it goes in the early years of it's life.

Hi, What do you think about the TRILAB series from PRUSA?

@mirkonstantin I’m definitely interested in it. It has some awesome capabilities from what it sounds like. I wish I could get one to test.

@@marfamir personally I had bad experience w/ a Seemecnc delta printer that used a bowden tube extruder. Prusa advertises a separate extruder to use flexible filaments in its TriLab AzteQ as bowden extruders have a more difficult time w/ flexible materials; hence the reason I stay away from them. I think they introduce other variables into an already complicated process.

Thanks!

Dang that’s really rough. It sounds like some people have great experiences and others just terrible. Seems like just a little more consistency on their end would go a long way.

the $600 I spent on upgrade parts to "Fix" some issues are causing a whole new world of issues I am trying to figure out. all new extrudes, new hotends, build plate, bowden tubes.. the whole reason I spent so much on this printer in the first place was because the CEO was there at Maker fair and convinced me to go with them over the lulzbot I was originally looking at. now I am over $6k into this printer and still can't get a reliable print out of of it. @@folsomtech

Sure I can get that measured. You mean between the x and y axis rods? Like the height difference?

@@folsomtech yes correct.

Sorry it took so long. Looks like it’s about 18mm center to center between the x and y axis rods.

Definitely, customer service is everything. Even if someone has a mediocre product but provides incredible service it can make up for it.

Completely agree. If a company is going to sell a product as "professional grade" for this kind of price, I'm expecting either professional quality OR professional support. Ideally both.

What’s crazy is anything else with dual extrusion that competes is even more expensive. So compared to those it looks like a good deal. Unless you know the issues that are present.

That would be awesome! I haven’t had the opportunity to test the Bambu Lab printers yet but they seem to do a great job! And if they could make a dual extrusion version that would be awesome.

Yep I used this exact method to clear one not long ago. But sadly I still have one that is still clogged and this method still wouldn't clear it. I definitely try to save as much as possible. Thanks for the feedback!

@@folsomtech well you have nothing to loose by yanking it with more force ! Worse that can happen, you break it. No big deal as it is worthless if it's jammed.. Best case scenario you successfully remove the jam :)

That is very true lol

Similarly, I heated mine up. Used my heat proof barbecue gloves, powered off the machine and pulled the hotend (yeah now Im super paranoid about killing another hotend controller!) unscrewed the two little allen screws on top of the heating block, removed that, yanked the filament out, reassembled, and good to go. I could not for the life of me get the nozzle to come out, even when hot and the heating block allens loosened. Whole assembly tries to rotate and break the leads going to the connection board. Which sucks because I need to install a hardened steel nozzle soon.

Yes they are intended to be used once. Usually you can use them a few times they just don't recommend it for reliable first layer reasons. I usually only use a new bed every time for customer orders to ensure they don't have any lifting issues. Then I'll often reuse that bed for prototypes that are non-critical.

@@folsomtech We have an old Uprint at work and we wipe the plates with a little bit of acetone. It restores and greatly improves the adhesion of the build plate. We use the build plates 100s of times until the printer gives a bed leveling error. Which tells us that we need to replace it. At that point the plates have degraded from the chamber heat anyway.