For DIYers you prove the old adage “A fool with a tool, is still a fool”. It doesn’t take expensive tools to get good results. It’s more about process and technique and less about costly compressors or spray guns. Thanks for the informative videos.
Here is my only problem with your videos; you make it look sooooooo easy!! Dang you, I can't wait until my results look as good as yours! Keep up the good work!
Your work will turn out fine - keep watching and practicing. Start with one panel - make it perfect and you'll be one your way. Keep asking ?s no matter how easy they sound - that's the key :)
@@LakesideAutobody The CH spray gun arrived. It looks alright. It was covered inside and out in a cosmoline type substance, so I carefully disassembled it and cleaned it up with some alcohol and a rag. I found a few bits of metal in it, so I'll flush it out really good tomorrow. I also picked up a 20 gallon compressor, so I should be good to go for this weekend!
Have a different spray gun gonna use now never used it before the Ronpeng professional lvlp spray gun got it on Ali Express 3 of them a 1.3, 1.4 and 1.7. Plan on getting 4x8 wood boards to insulate the sealing of garage so can have it warmer so can paint when it's cold in Michigan like it has been now today was in 50's though. Isn't cold as used to be because of the global warming over the years though. I have bought some other stuff too like this sandblaster water attachment hose and other stuff that got lately but cold for painting now unless had garage heater don't want my paint freezing when I paint even though have a infrared 1500 watt heater now too.
Gonna start using high solids clear when I paint but gonna still use the Starfire base but the 5 Star Etreme high solids clear with fast activator and reducer I know got orange peel when using the Paint For Cars auto paint but I was spraying my coats starting off too wet instead of starting slightly wet on first coat and a little bit wetter on every other coat was looking at the guy that does Speedkote videos when painting and saw how he was spraying and he started off with lighter mist coat not too wet like I did but I have to pay more attention to instructions on paint too it does say on the Starfire basecoat the metallic base to sand with 400 on vehicle before painting. I got a Nason flat black sealer last summer so would be using that still as a 2k sealer but the difference would be high solids clear which never sprayed before yet.
It dripped right in the middle of the hood - luckily the stripe will go over it. I tapped it with the end of a touch up brush to flatten it out a bit, then buried it with the next coat and clear. Thanks for watching as always UPK.
All except for the cap that leaked. Might have been me twisting it too tight though - or too loose. I'll have to experiment with it - the gun sprayed real nice though.
Great video - love the color! Bummer about the drip but you made a great recovery. I think I will get some wrist bands, that tip by @Dyna is a good one - it pays to read the comments!
You're welcome Michael - love to hear it. I'll have to look up a 39 custom - don't think I've seen one. Thanks for the support and have a great week :)
Hey bud! Please help me with something.. the reducer you used in your nason clear.. do you have a part number or what reducer should I use in my nason XL clear? Thank you sooo much!!! Subscribed!
Nason 441-21 - It's sort of hidden and I should mention it in the videos but all tool and supplies are always listed under the description of the video. Thanks for the support :)
Very nice video. While I get that you're demonstrating technique, it would be nice to know some info about the gun, and your opinion of the results. For example, what were your spray settings? Turns on the flow and pressure knobs? Supply pressure, and if using a local regulator, what did you knock it down too?
To be completely honest... every one sprays a bit different so those settings are going to vary depending on the type of paint, how thick or thin you mixed it, temperature in the garage, etc. Lots of variables. The truth is, there is no perfect recipe for spraying paint. The best however is to know some basic rules when adjusting pattern, pressure, fluid control, etc. Check this video out and if you have questions on your project just ask - I get to the comments 1-2 times a day - all comments - ruclips.net/video/2Yd0ykULtm8/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody Dude, it is so awesome that you replied, and so quickly! Thank you! I used to have a small paint and body shop back in the mid-80's, using a traditional Binks gun spraying straight enamel, lacquer, and playing round with spraying poly clear over color coats. Imron was all the rage, but hard as hell to get to come out right. I just built a new home shop, and getting ready to re-paint my shovelhead bagger, and everything is so different now. I have 2 HVLP guns, and actually did a 2 tone paint of one of my bagger lids 2 yrs ago using Nason, and it came out fine. So, always learning. Again, thanks for the help.
Yes. You can always touch the car you are working on - always - period. The wax and grease remover is just that - wax and grease remover. If you don't have either on your hands, your good. Keep good shop habits and your hand will always be dry as a bone. No KFC then work then French fries then work etc...:)
Jerry, I’m painting replacement fenders and an existing hood. After I spray sandable primer, can I go straight to base coat then to clear coat? In this video you apply a sealer coat over the primer. What does that do and do you recommend that layer prior to base coat? Love your content.
I used the sealer here to darken the primer - that's really it actually. There are a few purposes for using sealer. 1) change the color 2) seal the body work 3) help fill any super small imperfections 4) hit all the the bare metal spots with one shot. You can certainly prime then hit it with base - no need to sand unless there are dust specs, etc. Hope that helps :)
Thanks Jerry - such great finish, no orange peel at all! I just can't seem to get my paint to lay that flat - getting sick of always having to wet sand and buff to get it to look like that. :/
What type of paint are you using? Don't get discouraged - at the shops I worked at the painters wet sanded and buffed every job that left the building. Again let me know what type of paint you're using and then we'll figure it out no problem. Jerry
@@CA-pv5ie Try reducing your paint and clear a bit more like - 4 parts paint : 2-3 parts reducer + plus what ever hardener is required. Make sure your gun sprays great before - nice and clean - test with thinner or reducer - should have a nice even spray pattern, Tighten up the pattern a bit - not totally wide open. If it's really hot where you are use a slower reducer. Up your pressure at the gun to about 25 or more psi. Also, have to look at the paint as it's being sprayed - when it hits the panel it has to look wet and lay down nice. Wet wet wet but no runs. Let me know if that helps or not - Jerry
Only change I'd make is to us tape to cover any possible leaks from your gun,your rag might leave debris in the paint,otherwise nice job.I enjoy you vids enoght thought I've been doing show car restos for over 25 years.
Love your videos. Where do you buy the Nason paints and get them color matched? O’Reilly’s stores I call say they do not carry it. I used their tech support and they said the only OReillys in Michigan that mixes auto paint is in Owosso. Where do you get it mixed? Bill
Have you had any luck with the Nason basecoats on lighter metallic colors? I recently repaired a bed off a Chevrolet S10 that was a light pewter metallic using Nason. I could never get the metallic to lay right. I have used the Chroma base on metallics and had much better results. The problem is no one wants to pay the higher price for the Chroma base.. Any tips on working with the Nason lighter metallics to help with the mottling and sandpiling? Thanks
Yes - spray it dry. You don't have to worry about getting it wet at all as it won't cause orange peel when you put the clear coat on it. Wait like 1/2-1 hour before clearing. Let me know if this works for you. Here's an example of Nason light metallic paint and some help w/ mottling - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html
I wouldn’t stop in the middle as you paint. Sweet left to right and right to left going all the way off the body panel with a 50% overlap. I would also slow down just a bit.
Ha , great video, just wanted to share having a German shepherd, my signature is dog hair, somehow always manages to find its way to the paint. Also every spider , creepy crawlies seem to come out of the rafters when the fumes reach the ceiling 🤪 Depending on how fast the reducers are a spider can walk about 6" before becoming a unwilling hood ornament 🕷🦟🐕 Thanks for sharing, about to try Nasons base /clear for the first time, or TCP global, not sure🤷♂️
Oh yeah - not sure why those bugs like paint. Really strange actually - you'd think they would split as soon as they smell the fumes but nope - they dive right in :)
I appreciate the hard work, but so many of these videos on YT are practically useless. What pressure is at the gun, what are gun settings, what tip size. People always saying wet coat medium coat. How do you achieve this. Adjust air pressure, change hand movement speed. So many questions.
Most of my YT vids have that information listed in the description of the video - just scroll down a bit. If you have any ?s after that feel free to ask anything on any video. I answer once a day - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for that, I did see it after I read the entire comments section. Thanks for the great video. a few words from a pro can save you hours of frustration. I am using Nason NI-610 so going to be a little different. I have used it before & found it excellent without a binder. but going to use it this time. my cars sit inside a garage with a cover over them so don't get much weather damage.
What size nozzle for your gun do you spray with? I did 3 wet coats on mine, did get some dust and a little orange peel, will need to send and buff. Will 3 coats be safe foe sand and buff? I don't want to sand through the clear. And what is the max amount of clear you can put on? Thank you, love watching your videos!
You'll be fine with 3 coats. The gun used on this video has a 1.4mm tip. How much did you reduce the clear? Some clear coats are pretty thick and if it's warm out they don't have time to flow out flat and you get orange peel. Reducing the clear a bit more helps with that or using a slower reducer. Also, remember that almost all the dust you get in a paint job is already on the panel before the first coat - gotta make sure it's perfectly dust free before spraying. You don't have to wet floors, clean, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody I have a 1.4 Iwata. I didn't reduce the clear at all so it took a lot of paint to get it to flow out so my 3 coats should be pretty thick and I used a slow activator hoping that would help with the flow. And before I sprayed the clear I went over it with a tack cloth to pick up the dust. I spray in an old garage so it's kinda hard to avoid dust, but I did do some cleaning and wet the floors down. I took some 2000 grit paper to a little area and buffed yesterday, that little area looks as smooth as glass now. The car was painted on sunday, how long should I wait before sand and buff? it still seems pretty soft. thank you for the help!
@@shaggyzr Lots of folks will disagree with this but when I was younger I was sick and tired of getting dust in my paint work - I even sprayed in a booth. One day when I was about to paint I went over it one more time with a bare hand and air nozzle - I felt all types of dust and nubs. I keep doing it till it felt smooth and clean. Voila! Dust free paint job ☺ Check out this video to see an example of that technique - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html
HEY. JERRY HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH BUGS WHEN PAINTING. I PAINT SOMETIMES AROUND 2-3 AM , USUALLY EVERYTHING GOES PRETTY GOOD EXCEPT THERE (ALWAYS) SEEMS TO BE A MOSQUITO WHO FINDS. IT'S WAY INTO MY LAST COLOR COAT OR MY CLEAR COAT. I'VE GOT THE GARAGE DOORS CLOSED UNTIL 20 MINUTES AFTER SPRAYING BUT DEM DARN MOSQUITOES SEEM TO FIND THEIR WAY IN WHILE I'M PAINTING . ANY SUGGESTIONS. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK AND VIDEOS. THANKS AL
I used to paint a lot at night too because I would do side jobs after work - same think - I got a lot of bugs. Now that I'm retired I always paint during the day. I could find no way to stop the random bug. The trick is though if you get a bug is to pick it out right away with an eye tweezers or something similar, dab the paint if needed with a soft bristle small brush and go on painting. By the time you're done that spot might flow out any you don't even notice it. The other option... don't mess with it till after the job, wet sand it and buff. You might see the bug color though still left in the paint. Jerry
Nason is a professional brand that holds up as well as any. For cheap paint I like urethane kits from paintforcars.com and TCP Global Restoration Shop urethane kits
What is your mix ratio with the nason base? It seems alot if people get confused by nasons weird ratios. And do you use the hardener for the nadon base? Thanks
Nason 483-15 activator is the hardener. The ratio is 8 : 1 : 2 - 8 parts color to 1 part activator to 2 parts reducer. Mark 11 equal parts on a paint stick (the total length is how much paint you want in all). In other words divide a distance (any distance that represents your desired amount of usable paint) on the paint stick - then divide it up into 11 parts. 8 parts will be paint 1 part will be hardener and 2 parts will be reducer. Let me know if that makes sense to you :)
Great finish from a cheap gun. With all the mist in the air do you find it causes any problems falling back on to the job. Good video as usual. Thanks Have a Good week . AL
I always forget to show the fan set up under the door. The overspray clears out fairly fast - maybe 5 minutes or so. I work with the body shop up town every now and then and he says that "Yes" metallic flakes do fall back down on the job and end up making it look lighter so he runs the tack cloth over it in between coats to pick it up. Thanks for watching Al - have a good weekend :)
Looks like your leak in the lid may have come from the vent in the cap top plug facing more forward...that should be pointed toward you so it doesn't leak paint out the top.
How did the color match up to the rest of the car? I hear some painters say you always have to blend into the mating panel to get a true match on poly coats or metallics. I also heard others say that is a myth. Your input please?
The truth is - I got real lucky. The painters are right - you almost always have to blend onto the adjacent panels. Sometimes you can get away with what I did because the fenders turn down real quick and the eye can't really see a big difference. I do think the paint I sprayed was a bit more purple than the original paint but you'd have to look at it side by side i.e. painted fender vs original paint on door. Jerry
I know there are instructions with the primers, paints, and clears but generally how long are you waiting between the paint coats and clear coats? How long do you let the paint dry before you spray the clear? Thank you Jerry for sharing your talents with the rest of us! Keep up the awesome work and videos!
I wait about 10 minutes between coats of color or basecoat and then wait about an hour to put the clear on - don't want to re align or disturb the metallic flakes by getting it too wet too early :)
@@LakesideAutobody HI Jerry, I've got a question. I sprayed my Silverado door jamb and lower rocker today. I used a 1.3 tip for the base and it laid out great. I may have messed up though when I went to the 1.5 tip for the clear. The cab corner and jamb came out ok but man the clear coat has runs like crazy on the lower rocker. The clear is still dripping onto the cardboard on the floor. Can I get away with wet sanding the runs or will I have to spray again after sanding the runs? I mixed the clear and hardener 4 to 1 like instructions said. Was the 1.5 tip a mistake? Thank you
@@MeowMeowMeow7576 Bottom line is you put it on too heavy. First coat should be light. Next coat medium wet. Final coat wet but not buried. If you spray it where it looks completely flat, you'll most likely end up with runs. You should see some orange peel, then it will flatten out a bit while drying. You can try wet sanding those runs but it will probably be a ton of work and frustration. See this video for the process with just one run - ruclips.net/video/Ee0B7_soVgc/видео.html If you have more than like 5 runs, you might want to just and it and re clear. Take it as a good lesson - it's a hard lesson but you won't forget it 😊 Keep me posted on how it turns out my friend and feel free to always ask ?s Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you Jerry. Yes there are more than 5 runs unfortunately. I was so happy because there were no runs at first but then I looked where the rocker starts bending and going down to where it's spot welded to the inner rocker. It's an 01 Silverado if you're familiar with those. I'm sure you are. Lol. If you have an email I can send you photos. Thank you again.
@@MeowMeowMeow7576 Don't feel bad - it's happened to me many times. It's par for the course - if you paint you are going to have runs. The key is to try to get as few as possible and sometimes you end up with none. There's a very fine line between spraying nice flat wet paint and running it. You'll usually find them when you come back out to look at your nice work... then bam! depression 😢 Folks don't usually show their runs on the internet but trust me they get them :)
@@pstreetgarage7304 You might enjoy this film of cars being build at the Dearborn Michigan Rouge plant in 1968 - there's some Ford Falcons (sort of like the Comet) at the end being stacked up in a giant building ready to be finished. Just an awesome film of how it used to be here in Detroit, MI - the great years for the middle class :) ruclips.net/video/BkGSv_1RL1w/видео.html
I take the air cap, fluid tip, and needle out. Throw the cap and fluid tip in some lacquer thinner (best for cleaning) and let them soak while I clean the cup and front of the gun where the paint comes out. You don't have to take anything else apart where paint doesn't go. I have a few favorite brushes that hit everything real well and put it back together. Throw some thinner in the cup and spray the rest of the residue out. Then put it away dry. I'll make a video on that - have a good weekend :)
This morning I sprayed some Nason basecoat XL 442-05 black on some parts (trunk, front & rear valance) for a 68 Mustang fastback. I was using 447-85 reducer mixed properly at 2:1. The temperature at the time was 80 degrees and I was getting ALOT of runs in the base coat. I was using a cheapy $20 Harbor freight gun that had a 1.4mm tip and it seemed like I adjusted the pattern very similar to what you had in this video. Maybe I was not moving the spray gun quick enough as it seems that you were moving a little quicker with your spray motion than I was but maybe there is something else that might be helping the base to run so easily. The humidity was very high earlier today and still is. I would like to get your input as to what else may have caused the base to run so easily? Was it the cheapy spray gun, the temp of the reducer OR do you think I just need to speed up my gun movement. Also how would you get rid of the runs in the base coat as I just stopped spraying it earlier this morning which was about 7 hours ago and didnt spray anymore because I wanted to try and find out what might be the problem. I appreciate your time and input if you can and thanks.
It was simply the movement of your gun. Don't worry at all about spraying the base coat dry and for that matter don't worry about spraying the clear a bit on the dry side either - a little orange peel is not the end of the world - it can always be wet sanded and buffed. I will be uploading a painting video tomorrow (6/24) that talks about what I'm trying to explain to you. For now though, I suggest practicing on a large metal coffee can - scuff it and paint it (bc/cc). If you can paint that without runs and be happy with the results - you are 90% there. As for removing the runs... you'll have to either wet sand them out with 400 grit or DA sand them when it dries - as long as the paper doesn't clog up. Let me know if you have more ?s - keep at it my friend - don't get frustrated - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Would it be quicker for me if I just removed the base coat with a rag and some lacquer thinner or would that not be good for the urethane 2K primer underneath? I intend to respray the entire panel anyways? Thanks for encouragement as I definitely need it. LOL! The parts I am painting were done in Nason 2k primer surfacer Direct to metal and they are 68 Shelby GT500KR fiberglass parts if that makes any difference. I look forward to watching your video as I have watched ALOT of those. LOL!
@@VegasRT500 My boss and I washed a whole car with buckets of lacquer thinner like you suggested (no gloves 😒). It's sort of messy but fast and it works. Try a small spot and make sure it doesn't mess with the 2K. You can absolutely do that if you want. Let me know how it goes for you. I'll be watching out for your post - good luck my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah i thought i would remove it with laquer thinner then scuff the edges with 400grit to make sure they are not rough and there is a smooth transition from where I removed the runs. Thanks I may give it a try.
Just got the basecoat paint from Paint For Cars website today but still waiting for the turbine spray gun to come that ordered from a Asian country though the Fuji Q5 platinum hvlp I know it said 15-25 days it gonna take and next week Friday be 25 days so it should be coming by next week it has a 1.3 tip. I don't wanna use my 26 gallon air compressor with this paint again because like you said it did it multiple times when painting with this urethane paint got orange peel but I know they have urethane paints that are higher and lower quality too. I got a higher quality this time than last time paid 99 for a gallon this time paid 135 I still have some of the Arcylic enamel basecoat though that single stage that midnight blue both metallic but the Arcylic enamel paint when used it didn't look like a midnight blue after spraying it with my spray gun. I think the problem could be the psi I spray this paint with and other things but will use a 1.3 when I spray basecoat with this next time. Maybe this paint not good to apply with a small air compressor either though.
@@LakesideAutobody ok was looking at instructions today and it said when using conventional spray gun to spray with 35-44 psi and saw the full instructions in the back but told them to email me instructions so don't have to look of back of can because this time gonna use a fast reducer not medium plus a different spray gun when it comes. I have a Nason Fast reducer bought in the last 2 months though. But have Nason black think is a flat black sealer too. Gonna need stuff fixed on truck because anti lock brake lights come on but don't stay on and maybe new tires so haven't been getting much as was but have gotten a lot of auto products in the last year but still haven't gotten a great paint job yet. Hopefully get better soon because next summer be two years since when I started trying to paint my last truck had rust but my new truck really didn't need to be painted I would of been better off painting test panels. But eventually gonna get a car again was looking at cars on Facebook Marketplace.
@@zanaga1901 I took my ABS light out of the dash - got tired of messing with it - fixing this and that. I didn't even like it when they operated correctly in the winter - just pulled the instrument panel, pulled the bulb - fixed forever :) It's tough to get a good car my friend - been there. They need to make a basic truck for a lot less $. :)
@@LakesideAutobody Bought some laquer thinner Saturday at store Blaine Farm and Fleet 5 gallon I know that a lot but my parent said that was too much for me to get that is actually something like a auto shop would get but got it because would have enough for a long while I ain't a professional painter or have a body shop but when I get one gallon it didn't last long when keep trying to paint my truck but only way I be to paint soon will be with a garage heater or next year painting again.
It's a good clear - hardens real well, great shine, sprays on nice and flat. I do get a run now and then though (it's a bit thinner than PPG or Dupont stuff I've used) Nason does make a high solids clear - have not used it yet but I think that's probably the answer. I think you would like it - not to pricey either - Jerry
@@AliVapeReviews This is the high solids version - products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/nsn/product/476-00.html - don't get me wrong though, you will like the 498-00 - my lighting is worse than a booth and I my sight isn't what it used to be so maybe that's it too. I always like to see exactly how it goes on and sometimes in this garage I have to just guess how it's going on and hope for the best - perfect recipe for runs :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok thanks I’ll just go with the 498-00 for now as I found the gallon kit for $130 which is a good price if I want something better I’ll go with that yeah same here I paint in my backyard in a gazebo only got one light and not the best Esther but gotta make it work
@@AliVapeReviews Let me know how it goes for you Ali - Don't mean to sound like a dad but wear one of these: www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=asc_df_B0002STR22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
@@stingray6164 You're welcome - I use Nason 441-20 it's a medium temp reducer for like the mid west. If it's super hot out all the time use a slower reducer :)
It's a 1K (no mix with activator) type of sealer from Autobody Master - they sell it at the local Auto Value Auto Parts store. All 1k sealers are probably really close in performance. Any sealer will work fine for you too 1K or 2K.
Never start in the middle of a panel. Keeps a wet edge alle the time if you work your way into the middle,, then switch sides and keep going.. Also put some gloves on when you run your hands on it. Your clean dry hands are still oily.. And finally do your front edge first. Keeps from putting overspray onto you freshly painted hood. Nice color though. Gonna look good.
With respect, according to the wet edge theory, you could never paint an entire car. Where would you start so that you wouldn't have a dry edge or.... always keep a wet edge? Just get the entire thing wet and you're good.
Yes, it's fine. Magazines, blogs, etc. say no but all body guys, painters, etc. touch the work - you have to. Just keep good shop habits - your hand will always be dry - no eating chicken, fries, working on greasy parts, etc.
You need to give a reason so that folks can navigate through the valuable information and the not so good info 👍 You might have something good here but there's nothing to support it. 😊
You're welcome - it is true, you don't need a booth. I'm not sure when booths started showing up in body shops but my dad worked in a custom vet/van shop and they didn't have a booth - 1970's
With respect that's false information passed on by books, magazines and blogs. A body man has clean dry hands. Matter of fact, they're always dry as a bone. You have to touch your body work - just have good shop habits - no eating French fries while working, etc.
If you see orange peel you can wet sand lightly with 1200 grit and buff. You have to make a choice when you paint - push it to the limit and chance getting runs which to me ruin paint jobs or hold back just a bit and buff - which is much easier and looks a lot better than removing runs. Nothing worse than going to check on your fresh paint and finding runs - to me anyway :)
For DIYers you prove the old adage “A fool with a tool, is still a fool”. It doesn’t take expensive tools to get good results. It’s more about process and technique and less about costly compressors or spray guns. Thanks for the informative videos.
You're welcome Mr Frank - appreciate the support :)
10% equipment, 90% the talent with experience using the equipment.
Here is my only problem with your videos; you make it look sooooooo easy!! Dang you, I can't wait until my results look as good as yours! Keep up the good work!
Your work will turn out fine - keep watching and practicing. Start with one panel - make it perfect and you'll be one your way. Keep asking ?s no matter how easy they sound - that's the key :)
practice, practice, and more practice makes perfect.
@@hunkydude322 Except for me with playing guitar and golf and marriage and kids and ......:)
I bought that CH gun for spraying my trucks roof. Glad to see it in action, and I'll keep an eye out for leaks too! Thanks!
I really like the gun actually - cheap but works great and easy to clean. Got a cup from HF to replace the one that was on it :)
@@LakesideAutobody The CH spray gun arrived. It looks alright. It was covered inside and out in a cosmoline type substance, so I carefully disassembled it and cleaned it up with some alcohol and a rag. I found a few bits of metal in it, so I'll flush it out really good tomorrow. I also picked up a 20 gallon compressor, so I should be good to go for this weekend!
@@SomeGuyInSandy Awesome! Have fun and let me know how it goes for you. If you have any questions feel free to ask my friend :)
You always give professional advice for the average joe to apply in his shop. Awesome 📹 as always
Thanks for the kind words Matt - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm just getting back to it. Working on a 2001 f550.
@@MATTYANDSMOKE That's one tough looking truck. Keep me posted on your progress :)
Love that color
Have a different spray gun gonna use now never used it before the Ronpeng professional lvlp spray gun got it on Ali Express 3 of them a 1.3, 1.4 and 1.7. Plan on getting 4x8 wood boards to insulate the sealing of garage so can have it warmer so can paint when it's cold in Michigan like it has been now today was in 50's though. Isn't cold as used to be because of the global warming over the years though. I have bought some other stuff too like this sandblaster water attachment hose and other stuff that got lately but cold for painting now unless had garage heater don't want my paint freezing when I paint even though have a infrared 1500 watt heater now too.
Jerry, Always enjoy your vids. Keep them coming
Thanks David - I will - have a good weekend :)
Gonna start using high solids clear when I paint but gonna still use the Starfire base but the 5 Star Etreme high solids clear with fast activator and reducer I know got orange peel when using the Paint For Cars auto paint but I was spraying my coats starting off too wet instead of starting slightly wet on first coat and a little bit wetter on every other coat was looking at the guy that does Speedkote videos when painting and saw how he was spraying and he started off with lighter mist coat not too wet like I did but I have to pay more attention to instructions on paint too it does say on the Starfire basecoat the metallic base to sand with 400 on vehicle before painting. I got a Nason flat black sealer last summer so would be using that still as a 2k sealer but the difference would be high solids clear which never sprayed before yet.
Another great video Jerry and you gave some good tips for the leaking caps!
It dripped right in the middle of the hood - luckily the stripe will go over it. I tapped it with the end of a touch up brush to flatten it out a bit, then buried it with the next coat and clear. Thanks for watching as always UPK.
@@LakesideAutobody that’s definitely why I like using the PPS cups to eliminate as many hiccups as I can
@@LakesideAutobody I enjoy watching your videos Jerry
wrist sweat bans work great.
@@MickE98 What a great idea - thanks :)
Great results, with an inexpensive gun. 👍
All except for the cap that leaked. Might have been me twisting it too tight though - or too loose. I'll have to experiment with it - the gun sprayed real nice though.
Great video - love the color! Bummer about the drip but you made a great recovery. I think I will get some wrist bands, that tip by @Dyna is a good one - it pays to read the comments!
Oh - I was real bummed when I saw the drip fall from the cup - luckily it was right where the stripe is going to go. Plop!
Nice job as always Jerry look forward seeing your next video cant wait thank you for this video
Thanks 👍 I think you'll like the next one too :) Thank you so much for the support as always. Nice to always hear from you :)
Wanted to say thanks for the videos, they helped me greatly on my 39 dodge custom. 👍🏻 Great Job Jerry!!!
You're welcome Michael - love to hear it. I'll have to look up a 39 custom - don't think I've seen one. Thanks for the support and have a great week :)
Hey bud! Please help me with something.. the reducer you used in your nason clear.. do you have a part number or what reducer should I use in my nason XL clear? Thank you sooo much!!! Subscribed!
Nason 441-21 - It's sort of hidden and I should mention it in the videos but all tool and supplies are always listed under the description of the video. Thanks for the support :)
Looks great for a paint job in a garage.
Thanks Robert - have a good week :)
Excellent video - super clear instructions. Thank you!
You're welcome - glad you liked it. Have a great weekend :)
Very nice video. While I get that you're demonstrating technique, it would be nice to know some info about the gun, and your opinion of the results. For example, what were your spray settings? Turns on the flow and pressure knobs? Supply pressure, and if using a local regulator, what did you knock it down too?
To be completely honest... every one sprays a bit different so those settings are going to vary depending on the type of paint, how thick or thin you mixed it, temperature in the garage, etc. Lots of variables. The truth is, there is no perfect recipe for spraying paint. The best however is to know some basic rules when adjusting pattern, pressure, fluid control, etc. Check this video out and if you have questions on your project just ask - I get to the comments 1-2 times a day - all comments - ruclips.net/video/2Yd0ykULtm8/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody Dude, it is so awesome that you replied, and so quickly! Thank you! I used to have a small paint and body shop back in the mid-80's, using a traditional Binks gun spraying straight enamel, lacquer, and playing round with spraying poly clear over color coats. Imron was all the rage, but hard as hell to get to come out right. I just built a new home shop, and getting ready to re-paint my shovelhead bagger, and everything is so different now. I have 2 HVLP guns, and actually did a 2 tone paint of one of my bagger lids 2 yrs ago using Nason, and it came out fine. So, always learning. Again, thanks for the help.
So, after you wipe with wax and grease remover you the apply grease from your hand while blowing? Help me understand this will ya?
Yes. You can always touch the car you are working on - always - period. The wax and grease remover is just that - wax and grease remover. If you don't have either on your hands, your good. Keep good shop habits and your hand will always be dry as a bone. No KFC then work then French fries then work etc...:)
Beautiful work there sir!
Thank you Justin - have a good end of the week :)
Jerry, I’m painting replacement fenders and an existing hood. After I spray sandable primer, can I go straight to base coat then to clear coat? In this video you apply a sealer coat over the primer. What does that do and do you recommend that layer prior to base coat? Love your content.
I used the sealer here to darken the primer - that's really it actually. There are a few purposes for using sealer. 1) change the color 2) seal the body work 3) help fill any super small imperfections 4) hit all the the bare metal spots with one shot. You can certainly prime then hit it with base - no need to sand unless there are dust specs, etc. Hope that helps :)
Thanks Jerry - such great finish, no orange peel at all! I just can't seem to get my paint to lay that flat - getting sick of always having to wet sand and buff to get it to look like that. :/
What type of paint are you using? Don't get discouraged - at the shops I worked at the painters wet sanded and buffed every job that left the building. Again let me know what type of paint you're using and then we'll figure it out no problem. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hey Jerry,it's Matrix paint with U-Pol 2.1 clear. Am running at about 25psi on the clear and about 18psi on the paint.
@@CA-pv5ie Try reducing your paint and clear a bit more like - 4 parts paint : 2-3 parts reducer + plus what ever hardener is required. Make sure your gun sprays great before - nice and clean - test with thinner or reducer - should have a nice even spray pattern, Tighten up the pattern a bit - not totally wide open. If it's really hot where you are use a slower reducer. Up your pressure at the gun to about 25 or more psi. Also, have to look at the paint as it's being sprayed - when it hits the panel it has to look wet and lay down nice. Wet wet wet but no runs. Let me know if that helps or not - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Appreciate you taking the time Jerry! Great advise - will give that a shot.
Great job Jerry 👌🏻 came out great.
Thanks v8man - I think you'll really like it with the stripes put back on - next week. Have a good week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody looking forward to it, stay safe 👍🏻
@@v8man350 You too :)
Wow! Looks Great! Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome John - have g good weekend :)
Only change I'd make is to us tape to cover any possible leaks from your gun,your rag might leave debris in the paint,otherwise nice job.I enjoy you vids enoght thought I've been doing show car restos for over 25 years.
Thanks Duster71 - I appreciate that. I love old MOPAR's - wish I could find a 71 Satellite :)
Love your videos. Where do you buy the Nason paints and get them color matched? O’Reilly’s stores I call say they do not carry it. I used their tech support and they said the only OReillys in Michigan that mixes auto paint is in Owosso. Where do you get it mixed?
Bill
I get it at a local Auto Value auto parts store. There's two in my area that sell the stuff - West Branch, MI and St Helen, MI
Have you had any luck with the Nason basecoats on lighter metallic colors? I recently repaired a bed off a Chevrolet S10 that was a light pewter metallic using Nason. I could never get the metallic to lay right. I have used the Chroma base on metallics and had much better results. The problem is no one wants to pay the higher price for the Chroma base.. Any tips on working with the Nason lighter metallics to help with the mottling and sandpiling? Thanks
Yes - spray it dry. You don't have to worry about getting it wet at all as it won't cause orange peel when you put the clear coat on it. Wait like 1/2-1 hour before clearing. Let me know if this works for you. Here's an example of Nason light metallic paint and some help w/ mottling - ruclips.net/video/yGCpM6Cwhb0/видео.html
Awesome job as always
Thanks Leonard :)
I wouldn’t stop in the middle as you paint. Sweet left to right and right to left going all the way off the body panel with a 50% overlap. I would also slow down just a bit.
Thanks Justin :)
@@LakesideAutobody your welcome keep up the good work sir
Looks sweet! No blending to front Fenders? Can't wait to see it done
Ain't that something? Good to hear from you SD - have a good week :)
What do you think of nason products and prices?
Products are great prices are average which is expensive to me but not totally un-affordable :)
Ha , great video, just wanted to share having a German shepherd, my signature is dog hair, somehow always manages to find its way to the paint. Also every spider , creepy crawlies seem to come out of the rafters when the fumes reach the ceiling 🤪
Depending on how fast the reducers are a spider can walk about 6" before becoming a unwilling hood ornament 🕷🦟🐕
Thanks for sharing, about to try Nasons base /clear for the first time, or TCP global, not sure🤷♂️
Oh yeah - not sure why those bugs like paint. Really strange actually - you'd think they would split as soon as they smell the fumes but nope - they dive right in :)
I appreciate the hard work, but so many of these videos on YT are practically useless. What pressure is at the gun, what are gun settings, what tip size. People always saying wet coat medium coat. How do you achieve this. Adjust air pressure, change hand movement speed. So many questions.
Most of my YT vids have that information listed in the description of the video - just scroll down a bit. If you have any ?s after that feel free to ask anything on any video. I answer once a day - Jerry
Looks great ! And a awesome tip !
Thanks Curtis - have a good weekend :)
Great video. How much thinner are you using with the base & clear
Thanks Calthorp - the mix ratios for color and clear are listed in the video description :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for that, I did see it after I read the entire comments section. Thanks for the great video. a few words from a pro can save you hours of frustration. I am using Nason NI-610 so going to be a little different. I have used it before & found it excellent without a binder. but going to use it this time. my cars sit inside a garage with a cover over them so don't get much weather damage.
What size nozzle for your gun do you spray with? I did 3 wet coats on mine, did get some dust and a little orange peel, will need to send and buff. Will 3 coats be safe foe sand and buff? I don't want to sand through the clear. And what is the max amount of clear you can put on? Thank you, love watching your videos!
You'll be fine with 3 coats. The gun used on this video has a 1.4mm tip. How much did you reduce the clear? Some clear coats are pretty thick and if it's warm out they don't have time to flow out flat and you get orange peel. Reducing the clear a bit more helps with that or using a slower reducer. Also, remember that almost all the dust you get in a paint job is already on the panel before the first coat - gotta make sure it's perfectly dust free before spraying. You don't have to wet floors, clean, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody I have a 1.4 Iwata. I didn't reduce the clear at all so it took a lot of paint to get it to flow out so my 3 coats should be pretty thick and I used a slow activator hoping that would help with the flow. And before I sprayed the clear I went over it with a tack cloth to pick up the dust. I spray in an old garage so it's kinda hard to avoid dust, but I did do some cleaning and wet the floors down. I took some 2000 grit paper to a little area and buffed yesterday, that little area looks as smooth as glass now. The car was painted on sunday, how long should I wait before sand and buff? it still seems pretty soft. thank you for the help!
@@shaggyzr Lots of folks will disagree with this but when I was younger I was sick and tired of getting dust in my paint work - I even sprayed in a booth. One day when I was about to paint I went over it one more time with a bare hand and air nozzle - I felt all types of dust and nubs. I keep doing it till it felt smooth and clean. Voila! Dust free paint job ☺ Check out this video to see an example of that technique - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html
HEY. JERRY
HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH BUGS WHEN PAINTING.
I PAINT SOMETIMES AROUND 2-3 AM ,
USUALLY EVERYTHING GOES PRETTY GOOD EXCEPT THERE (ALWAYS) SEEMS TO BE A MOSQUITO WHO FINDS. IT'S WAY INTO MY LAST COLOR COAT OR MY CLEAR COAT.
I'VE GOT THE GARAGE DOORS CLOSED UNTIL 20 MINUTES AFTER SPRAYING BUT DEM DARN MOSQUITOES SEEM TO FIND THEIR WAY IN WHILE I'M PAINTING .
ANY SUGGESTIONS.
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK AND VIDEOS.
THANKS
AL
I used to paint a lot at night too because I would do side jobs after work - same think - I got a lot of bugs. Now that I'm retired I always paint during the day. I could find no way to stop the random bug. The trick is though if you get a bug is to pick it out right away with an eye tweezers or something similar, dab the paint if needed with a soft bristle small brush and go on painting. By the time you're done that spot might flow out any you don't even notice it. The other option... don't mess with it till after the job, wet sand it and buff. You might see the bug color though still left in the paint. Jerry
Great video thank you for sharing 👍👏😎🍺
You're welcome Bill - glad you liked it :)
I use the elastic top off an old sock to catch the drips
Nice idea Charlie - I'll remember that :)
How does the nason paint spray.Does it hold up long term. what is your favorite cheap paint to use.
Nason is a professional brand that holds up as well as any. For cheap paint I like urethane kits from paintforcars.com and TCP Global Restoration Shop urethane kits
Love that color, do you remember what it was called or the paint code?
It's called Kona Blue - best color Ford ever made in my opinion - just awesome. It's a 2012. Good eye Mr H - happy Super Bowl 🏈
Damn looks amazing!
Thanks - it'll look real nice with the stripes back on. I'll upload that next Friday. Glad you like it so far :)
What is your mix ratio with the nason base? It seems alot if people get confused by nasons weird ratios. And do you use the hardener for the nadon base? Thanks
Nason 483-15 activator is the hardener. The ratio is 8 : 1 : 2 - 8 parts color to 1 part activator to 2 parts reducer. Mark 11 equal parts on a paint stick (the total length is how much paint you want in all). In other words divide a distance (any distance that represents your desired amount of usable paint) on the paint stick - then divide it up into 11 parts. 8 parts will be paint 1 part will be hardener and 2 parts will be reducer. Let me know if that makes sense to you :)
@@LakesideAutobody i bought some NASON FUL-BASE 3.5 B/C and its metallic but its a 1:1 mix ratio???
Thanks for the lessons.. 👍
You're welcome - glad you enjoy them :)
Next time start from the outside in when you are spraying it'll leave you a wet edge that way it's not dry when you go to the other side
Nice suggestion, I'll give it a try some time. Thanks :)
Great finish from a cheap gun. With all the mist in the air do you find it causes any problems falling back on to the job.
Good video as usual. Thanks Have a Good week . AL
I always forget to show the fan set up under the door. The overspray clears out fairly fast - maybe 5 minutes or so. I work with the body shop up town every now and then and he says that "Yes" metallic flakes do fall back down on the job and end up making it look lighter so he runs the tack cloth over it in between coats to pick it up. Thanks for watching Al - have a good weekend :)
2 coats of urethane and you are gold. way to many coats of paint when clear willl not hold up in hot sunny states.
I believe that was two coats of clear - no?
Looks like your leak in the lid may have come from the vent in the cap top plug facing more forward...that should be pointed toward you so it doesn't leak paint out the top.
Good tip:)
Great vid👍how long between base coats did you wait?
10-15 minutes
@@LakesideAutobody thanks 🙏
How did the color match up to the rest of the car? I hear some painters say you always have to blend into the mating panel to get a true match on poly coats or metallics. I also heard others say that is a myth. Your input please?
The truth is - I got real lucky. The painters are right - you almost always have to blend onto the adjacent panels. Sometimes you can get away with what I did because the fenders turn down real quick and the eye can't really see a big difference. I do think the paint I sprayed was a bit more purple than the original paint but you'd have to look at it side by side i.e. painted fender vs original paint on door. Jerry
I know there are instructions with the primers, paints, and clears but generally how long are you waiting between the paint coats and clear coats? How long do you let the paint dry before you spray the clear? Thank you Jerry for sharing your talents with the rest of us! Keep up the awesome work and videos!
I wait about 10 minutes between coats of color or basecoat and then wait about an hour to put the clear on - don't want to re align or disturb the metallic flakes by getting it too wet too early :)
@@LakesideAutobody HI Jerry, I've got a question. I sprayed my Silverado door jamb and lower rocker today. I used a 1.3 tip for the base and it laid out great. I may have messed up though when I went to the 1.5 tip for the clear. The cab corner and jamb came out ok but man the clear coat has runs like crazy on the lower rocker. The clear is still dripping onto the cardboard on the floor. Can I get away with wet sanding the runs or will I have to spray again after sanding the runs? I mixed the clear and hardener 4 to 1 like instructions said. Was the 1.5 tip a mistake? Thank you
@@MeowMeowMeow7576 Bottom line is you put it on too heavy. First coat should be light. Next coat medium wet. Final coat wet but not buried. If you spray it where it looks completely flat, you'll most likely end up with runs. You should see some orange peel, then it will flatten out a bit while drying. You can try wet sanding those runs but it will probably be a ton of work and frustration. See this video for the process with just one run - ruclips.net/video/Ee0B7_soVgc/видео.html If you have more than like 5 runs, you might want to just and it and re clear. Take it as a good lesson - it's a hard lesson but you won't forget it 😊 Keep me posted on how it turns out my friend and feel free to always ask ?s Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you Jerry. Yes there are more than 5 runs unfortunately. I was so happy because there were no runs at first but then I looked where the rocker starts bending and going down to where it's spot welded to the inner rocker. It's an 01 Silverado if you're familiar with those. I'm sure you are. Lol. If you have an email I can send you photos. Thank you again.
@@MeowMeowMeow7576 Don't feel bad - it's happened to me many times. It's par for the course - if you paint you are going to have runs. The key is to try to get as few as possible and sometimes you end up with none. There's a very fine line between spraying nice flat wet paint and running it. You'll usually find them when you come back out to look at your nice work... then bam! depression 😢 Folks don't usually show their runs on the internet but trust me they get them :)
Beautiful job. Great instructions as always. Will you show the entire car once done ?
Yes - I'll put the stripe back on pull it out side and show some good shots of the whole car. Have a good weekend PSG :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome. You too.
@@pstreetgarage7304 You might enjoy this film of cars being build at the Dearborn Michigan Rouge plant in 1968 - there's some Ford Falcons (sort of like the Comet) at the end being stacked up in a giant building ready to be finished. Just an awesome film of how it used to be here in Detroit, MI - the great years for the middle class :) ruclips.net/video/BkGSv_1RL1w/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody Wow. Thanks Jerry !
@@LakesideAutobody Ok. I just watched the clip. Was very good, crazy that the guys painted the cars by hand with no protective gear on.
Lookin' good Bud!!☺
Thanks 👍
Whats your method of cleaning the gun after painting? I can't seem to get it thouroughly clean. some residue always remains on the nozzle.
I take the air cap, fluid tip, and needle out. Throw the cap and fluid tip in some lacquer thinner (best for cleaning) and let them soak while I clean the cup and front of the gun where the paint comes out. You don't have to take anything else apart where paint doesn't go. I have a few favorite brushes that hit everything real well and put it back together. Throw some thinner in the cup and spray the rest of the residue out. Then put it away dry. I'll make a video on that - have a good weekend :)
This morning I sprayed some Nason basecoat XL 442-05 black on some parts (trunk, front & rear valance) for a 68 Mustang fastback. I was using 447-85 reducer mixed properly at 2:1. The temperature at the time was 80 degrees and I was getting ALOT of runs in the base coat. I was using a cheapy $20 Harbor freight gun that had a 1.4mm tip and it seemed like I adjusted the pattern very similar to what you had in this video. Maybe I was not moving the spray gun quick enough as it seems that you were moving a little quicker with your spray motion than I was but maybe there is something else that might be helping the base to run so easily. The humidity was very high earlier today and still is. I would like to get your input as to what else may have caused the base to run so easily? Was it the cheapy spray gun, the temp of the reducer OR do you think I just need to speed up my gun movement. Also how would you get rid of the runs in the base coat as I just stopped spraying it earlier this morning which was about 7 hours ago and didnt spray anymore because I wanted to try and find out what might be the problem. I appreciate your time and input if you can and thanks.
It was simply the movement of your gun. Don't worry at all about spraying the base coat dry and for that matter don't worry about spraying the clear a bit on the dry side either - a little orange peel is not the end of the world - it can always be wet sanded and buffed. I will be uploading a painting video tomorrow (6/24) that talks about what I'm trying to explain to you. For now though, I suggest practicing on a large metal coffee can - scuff it and paint it (bc/cc). If you can paint that without runs and be happy with the results - you are 90% there. As for removing the runs... you'll have to either wet sand them out with 400 grit or DA sand them when it dries - as long as the paper doesn't clog up. Let me know if you have more ?s - keep at it my friend - don't get frustrated - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Would it be quicker for me if I just removed the base coat with a rag and some lacquer thinner or would that not be good for the urethane 2K primer underneath? I intend to respray the entire panel anyways? Thanks for encouragement as I definitely need it. LOL! The parts I am painting were done in Nason 2k primer surfacer Direct to metal and they are 68 Shelby GT500KR fiberglass parts if that makes any difference. I look forward to watching your video as I have watched ALOT of those. LOL!
@@VegasRT500 My boss and I washed a whole car with buckets of lacquer thinner like you suggested (no gloves 😒). It's sort of messy but fast and it works. Try a small spot and make sure it doesn't mess with the 2K. You can absolutely do that if you want. Let me know how it goes for you. I'll be watching out for your post - good luck my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yeah i thought i would remove it with laquer thinner then scuff the edges with 400grit to make sure they are not rough and there is a smooth transition from where I removed the runs. Thanks I may give it a try.
@@LakesideAutobody Hey just out of curiousity when you guys washed a whole car down with lacquer thinner were you also removing base coat?
Just got the basecoat paint from Paint For Cars website today but still waiting for the turbine spray gun to come that ordered from a Asian country though the Fuji Q5 platinum hvlp I know it said 15-25 days it gonna take and next week Friday be 25 days so it should be coming by next week it has a 1.3 tip. I don't wanna use my 26 gallon air compressor with this paint again because like you said it did it multiple times when painting with this urethane paint got orange peel but I know they have urethane paints that are higher and lower quality too. I got a higher quality this time than last time paid 99 for a gallon this time paid 135 I still have some of the Arcylic enamel basecoat though that single stage that midnight blue both metallic but the Arcylic enamel paint when used it didn't look like a midnight blue after spraying it with my spray gun. I think the problem could be the psi I spray this paint with and other things but will use a 1.3 when I spray basecoat with this next time. Maybe this paint not good to apply with a small air compressor either though.
Keep me posted my friend. I'm looking forward to hearing how it all works out for you. Have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok was looking at instructions today and it said when using conventional spray gun to spray with 35-44 psi and saw the full instructions in the back but told them to email me instructions so don't have to look of back of can because this time gonna use a fast reducer not medium plus a different spray gun when it comes. I have a Nason Fast reducer bought in the last 2 months though. But have Nason black think is a flat black sealer too. Gonna need stuff fixed on truck because anti lock brake lights come on but don't stay on and maybe new tires so haven't been getting much as was but have gotten a lot of auto products in the last year but still haven't gotten a great paint job yet. Hopefully get better soon because next summer be two years since when I started trying to paint my last truck had rust but my new truck really didn't need to be painted I would of been better off painting test panels. But eventually gonna get a car again was looking at cars on Facebook Marketplace.
@@zanaga1901 I took my ABS light out of the dash - got tired of messing with it - fixing this and that. I didn't even like it when they operated correctly in the winter - just pulled the instrument panel, pulled the bulb - fixed forever :) It's tough to get a good car my friend - been there. They need to make a basic truck for a lot less $. :)
@@LakesideAutobody Bought some laquer thinner Saturday at store Blaine Farm and Fleet 5 gallon I know that a lot but my parent said that was too much for me to get that is actually something like a auto shop would get but got it because would have enough for a long while I ain't a professional painter or have a body shop but when I get one gallon it didn't last long when keep trying to paint my truck but only way I be to paint soon will be with a garage heater or next year painting again.
@@zanaga1901 My dad always bought it in 5 gallons. You're right it doesn't last long when cleaning guns and using it for thinning primer, etc.
Do you use your ful-base (basecoat) reducer in your clearcoat?
Yes - reduce to your liking.
is the nason 498-00 clear any good does it fade back or keep the same glossy and shine after you spray the last coat
It's a good clear - hardens real well, great shine, sprays on nice and flat. I do get a run now and then though (it's a bit thinner than PPG or Dupont stuff I've used) Nason does make a high solids clear - have not used it yet but I think that's probably the answer. I think you would like it - not to pricey either - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody what’s the high solids one
@@AliVapeReviews This is the high solids version - products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/nsn/product/476-00.html - don't get me wrong though, you will like the 498-00 - my lighting is worse than a booth and I my sight isn't what it used to be so maybe that's it too. I always like to see exactly how it goes on and sometimes in this garage I have to just guess how it's going on and hope for the best - perfect recipe for runs :)
@@LakesideAutobody ok thanks I’ll just go with the 498-00 for now as I found the gallon kit for $130 which is a good price if I want something better I’ll go with that yeah same here I paint in my backyard in a gazebo only got one light and not the best Esther but gotta make it work
@@AliVapeReviews Let me know how it goes for you Ali - Don't mean to sound like a dad but wear one of these: www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=asc_df_B0002STR22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
Great vedio thank you
Thanks - glad you liked it :)
DO YOU USE URETHANE REDUCER IN YOUR BASECOAT
Yes
THANK YOU THAT IS A BIG HELP LOVE THE VIDEOS
@@stingray6164 You're welcome - I use Nason 441-20 it's a medium temp reducer for like the mid west. If it's super hot out all the time use a slower reducer :)
@@LakesideAutobody WELL I THINK I HAVE A HANDLE ON IT WE'LL FIND OUT I HAVE USED THIS PAINT BEFORE BUT IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME
What is the sealer you use?
It's a 1K (no mix with activator) type of sealer from Autobody Master - they sell it at the local Auto Value Auto Parts store. All 1k sealers are probably really close in performance. Any sealer will work fine for you too 1K or 2K.
Never start in the middle of a panel. Keeps a wet edge alle the time if you work your way into the middle,, then switch sides and keep going.. Also put some gloves on when you run your hands on it. Your clean dry hands are still oily.. And finally do your front edge first. Keeps from putting overspray onto you freshly painted hood. Nice color though. Gonna look good.
With respect, according to the wet edge theory, you could never paint an entire car. Where would you start so that you wouldn't have a dry edge or.... always keep a wet edge? Just get the entire thing wet and you're good.
I LIKE THE RAG IDEA
Do you have to shake the gun alot so the metallic doesn't settle on the bottom? Thank you for the video. Enjoy your weekend!
No. You don't have to shake it at all. Actually try not to shake it as paint can leak. Once you mix the paint, you are good,
Why Not Paint The Hood Off The Car?
You could do that but good luck not messing things up putting it on when the paint is a bit soft :)
SHOULD YOU BE TOUCHING THE HOOD WITH YOUR HAND
Yes, it's fine. Magazines, blogs, etc. say no but all body guys, painters, etc. touch the work - you have to. Just keep good shop habits - your hand will always be dry - no eating chicken, fries, working on greasy parts, etc.
Never lay the end of your air hose on the shop floor while painting.
You need to give a reason so that folks can navigate through the valuable information and the not so good info 👍 You might have something good here but there's nothing to support it. 😊
@@LakesideAutobody dirt
👍@@brianharding7369
Inside of a garage..""Wow. ,",, Truth You don't need a paint booth to paint cars....thks
You're welcome - it is true, you don't need a booth. I'm not sure when booths started showing up in body shops but my dad worked in a custom vet/van shop and they didn't have a booth - 1970's
You never run your hand against the job before tacking. Never. Oil in your hands can contaminate the Finnish.
With respect that's false information passed on by books, magazines and blogs. A body man has clean dry hands. Matter of fact, they're always dry as a bone. You have to touch your body work - just have good shop habits - no eating French fries while working, etc.
You can see orange peel mmmm something is not right out there....
If you see orange peel you can wet sand lightly with 1200 grit and buff. You have to make a choice when you paint - push it to the limit and chance getting runs which to me ruin paint jobs or hold back just a bit and buff - which is much easier and looks a lot better than removing runs. Nothing worse than going to check on your fresh paint and finding runs - to me anyway :)
Why are you running your bare hand over it??? That's a big NO NO!
It's only a big no no on TV, the internet and books. Not in a real body shop. A body mans hands are always clean and dry as a bone :)