I have postmasters for my fence. Had hurricane come through on year 3 and they did move and parts of fence are crooked. A couple of them on the base rusted. I still have them but some of my fence leans. I can only assume it was a poor install and labor job. I've replaced the screws for the 2x4 into the post master with longer ones too. I think my installer could've done better.
I used these post years ago. They are great and make putting up a wood fence fast and strong. I don’t own the house anymore. But I have seen it driving by, and the fence still looks great. That’s been over 15 years that I put the fence up.
I've done a number of wood fence replacements over the years. It's always been a matter of what the customer was willing to pay. In my own yard, I replaced the ratty basket-weave wooden fence with a new fence this summer. I wanted to use the posts you're talking about, but really couldn't find a good supplier locally, and once the train started rolling, well... I needed to get going quickly. I ended up using 8' 2 3/8" steel fence pipe posts. Since the ground was very rocky, I was unable to get them set as deeply as I wanted, so I had to drill into the rock and drive 1/2" rebar in; then concreting the pipes in place, they were super solid, and I expect they'll outlast me. I also used bottom trim, top trim, and a horizontal top plate (so critters can run freely without fearing dogs). To top it all off, I sprayed the entire thing, both sides, with clear water sealer. And, wouldn't you know it? Spent $2K on materials on the fence, and about $5K last summer redoing the back deck and adding an industrial steel deck cover and NOW the wife wants to move :(.
haha sorry that was pretty funny. well the new owners are going to love all the beautiful work you have done ;) God bless you sir. I am a wife myself and I hope I never do that to my husband unless for a really good reason. Jesus is LORD.
I started installing privacy fencing as a side job a few years back. And the biggest issue is NO ONE wants to spend more $$$ on a better fence. Even trying to convince people to use cedar pickets over PT pine was next to impossible. Pressure Treated pine pickets are horrible. They shrink alot more than cedar and become more brittle once they dry out. But almost everyone wanted it done for the absolute cheapest price. I couldn't imaging trying to get some one to buy into spending $40/post for metal vs $12/post for wood.
I've built a fair number of fences in the last 50 years. Early on, some fancy Japanese fences, with clear heart redwood, set in concrete..... yeah, they all rotted out fairly quickly. Within 10 years they were weak. Pressure treated lasts longer for sure, not quite as pretty. I put in a fence, (TALL at 8') where I attached it to fairly heavy chain link fence. That is still standing. But what I found is that by using brackets like Simpson column bases, the heavy duty kind, the fences were totally durable. I never do it any other way now. The beauty of the column bases is that I can use either a string or a laser, (easier) to set all the bases in a line. I put the two straps "along" the fence line, so that the post actually can be tapped in or out to be perfectly in line. This give you almost 1" (more than enough) adjustment. I dig the hole the required depth, throw some rebar in if I want to, and usually use a short piece of sono tube so that the concrete is a few inches OFF the ground. Don't want water standing on the bottom of the post. (take care to make sure that the actual base of the bracket is not below grade of the concrete. Pour all the concrete, use the string of laser to make sure the column bases are in line and square to the fence line. Let it set for a couple days. When attaching the posts, put the post in, (again, PT will last longer, but other wood will do "ok" as there is NO wood touching the ground. I put the post into the bracket then put a large C Clamp from one side of the bracket straps to the other, and tighten down a little. When the base is in the right spot, I use levels to make sure the post is plumb. If it isn't, tap it in place to be plumb, BOTH directions. The straps will slip on the wood enough so that it CAN be made perfectly plumb. Using the laser or string, you can make these posts PERFECTLY plumb and in line! Once they are, drill the holes for the bolts, (or if you prefer the SDS screw model, set the screws) and you have the posts solid and you can attach the rails. I now prefer to use the "concealed flange 2x hangers for the rails. They attach quickly, easily, and don't rot out like blocks will, or toe nailed ALWAYS rot out. Ok, I'm sure someone will say that column bases, even the heavy duty type I use, are not strong enough for a fence, on a 4x4 post. IF the post is 8' long above grade, Possibly not. If 6', it is. Is it as "stiff" as a post set in concrete? NO. Absolutely not, but 10 years later, it is still the same, and by then the other is getting loose and is not as stiff as the column base.... And 50 years later it is still fine and the one in concrete is only a memory. Also, I've had a couple where they were set near a driveway and a car hit the post and broke it. (one, an 6x6, was broken by a dozer) IF a post does get broken, normally you HATE pulling out that concrete and putting in new concrete. But with the column bases, you just unbolt the damaged post and put in a new one. Simple repair. I've done this method for probably 30 fences or pergolas , including 6 on my own property. They are all still standing and good as new, many are now close to 50 years old. YES, column bases are not cheap. $20 to $30 often each. And concealed flange hangers are not as cheap as toe nailing. But the durability, the repair ability, and the ease of construction make this method very good for most non professionals. I've seen even professional builders make fences that weren't plumb, or inline.
I need you to come build my fence :) Haha I’m just putting up a welded wire fence around my garden but want the posts removable and I think your method would make that possible 🤷🏼♀️ But it sounds like using column bases will get spendy, it’s costing a fortune to keep the dang deer out of my garden grrrrrrrr !
When you said you put the column bases' two flanges "along" the fence line, do you mean that the flanges are actually Perpendicular to a string line or laser line representing the fence line? I figure the flanges have to be perpendicular to allow you to tap the post toward you or away from you to fine-tune the alignment. If the flanges were in line with the fence line, you could tap the posts side-to-side for fine adjustment but I wouldn't think there is much need for that adjustment direction - unless you were off a bit in being 8' between posts. However, if the support flanges were perpendicular to the fence line, the disadvantage seems to be that you won't have the support flanges being able to help combat the back and forth impacts of high winds hitting the fence broadsides. Can you clarify what you meant?
As a property manager I've replaced a few fences and yes, digging out old post and concrete gets real old, sometimes if possible I just design in new holes and move fence over a bit. Just cut down old post below ground level and cover. EZ But the only real problem I find is the ground line where water and air meet is the only place it rots. Above and below ground it last a real long time. Either no water above ground, or no air below so rot is reduced, just the ground line is where you get both and it rots. So Now I add a 2 inch or so collar of concrete above the ground line so it stays drier, does not rot much as far as I can tell or slows it down a lot. For $90-$100 per steel post, I can get a lot of high school kids to dig holes for me. Just too expensive. Dont let the wood post just come out of the ground, give it some protection with a concrete collar using a carboard tube to set the post in. This is real nice but hard to justify and extra $1000 or 2 for these steel post. $20-30 per is about all I'd pay.
30 years ago my fence was installed with round 2" steel galvanized posts with treated horizontal 2x4 lagged to the posts. Still going strong, couple a times a year I go around and reattach the pickets that have come loose.
Liking how easy it looks like these will be and the longevity. What do you do at corners when using this type of post? When looking at this particular style of post I did not see a corner version.
We used these on all 3 sides in 3 consecutive years. They were fairly expensive, but I just told myself I’m never digging another post hole as long as I live, and it was worth it. The oldest side is almost 10 years old and has had zero problems. They are also very strong, and don’t move during high winds.
@joeeverest have you ever damaged the postmaster post from manually driving it? If so, how did you straighten that out so you don’t need to cut the top of the post
Does the steel need to go below the frost line like a wood post? do the width still need to be triple the width of post. So many questions. I really like this look! MO resident
Absolutely love the channel. Putting steel posts in the ground makes so much more sense as my last 6x6 corner post warped. I gotta ask though $95 for one of the Halco posts? Am I looking at something wrong? Someone help me out here please.
I purchased these for my fence replacement and think they are well worth the added expense. Really like the thin profile these offer and obviously the strength of being steel.
I love PostMaster posts. I built a fence for my Mom about 25 years ago. Standard redwood posts. They failed in around 15 years - totally failed! When I replaced the fence, I went with PostMaster posts. The real difference (I love to overbuild) was that before installing any of the rest of the fence (after the posts were set), I framed out and poured a 8' wide by 6' thick "footing" along the entire length of the fence. This went around the steel posts (isometrically around both sides) and keeps the new redwood fence from ever touching the ground. I went for a 3/4" gap above the new concrete. No grass, no dirt can ever get up to the fence boards without serious neglect. No wicking of moisture into the fence boards was the main idea. Of course it was an additional bit of work, but I seriously doubt that I will ever have to do anything to that fence while she is living there. Money/time well spent.
Wicking isn't the only issue if you have a lawn sprinkler and you'll also face splash during a light rain off of that concrete onto the bottoms. Rot is caused by cycling between WET and DRY, over and over and over. That's why the posts always rot right at ground contact: it's where the most frequent wetting/drying occurs. 2nd to that is the tops, where any sprinkle of rain gets 'em wet. since you have the grass off the bottoms, just spray the bottom 6" with preservative, and then the top 3", every year or two, and it'll double the life.
I work for a fence company in Nova Scotia and all wood fences that we install use 6x6 wood post. Do you think it would be a good idea to suggest this post master post to the company?
How long do these post last? It kind of seems like the normal base rot that occurs overtime would allow these post to get pushed over by winds much more than earlier than the round post.
Thanks for all your videos and help… I need to post my work for you to see me in action lol … 👍🏽… When use metal post (both styles, flat post and round w/ brackets) what are a few tips or tricks installing them when or having access to one side of fence? Better to install that section of post backwards or pre build post and wood braces and stand them up together! Just was wondering…. Because I’ve done all types of things… some yards make US into wizards getting the job done right
I've lived in hurricane country my whole life. I had a wood privacy fence with both wood and steel posts. Steel posts will rust and snap in high winds and wood posts will rot and break also. I prefer the wood posts being they hold up better in high winds.
Here in Northern Nevada, these fence posts go for $35 ($30 if purchase 15 or more) at the local BORG stores. Went to a local fence contractor. Picked up the Postmaster+ (not the originals) for $39.
When I built a fence if I could budget it I ran a 2X10 on the ground centered off the fence. I notched it out to slip down over the posts and it worked great to keep grass and weeds down along the fence line. Yes it was extra work but years after it was installed you could still run a mower over it to cut the grass that grew up to the 2X10. It looked good and worked well. My parents loved it after their fence was built and it made grass cutting easier.
You can also just cut a 1x3 or 1x4 ground contact and screw them horizontally through the fence pickets, even one on both side to achieve the same thing.
Thank you for showing that better post design. I have a fence built with 4x6 posts, not set at the proper ground height. I installed a pair of round posts to support 2 wood posts that were cracking off at the bottom, 20+ years after install. When the other posts go, I now know the proper fence posts for replacement. One thing I learned, with round posts the adapters can add a lot of expense. I like this, the beauty of wood w/ the post strength of steel.
Would those hidden posts work on a shadow box style fence that’s mandated by our HOA for high winds to pass through and on the coast with such bad rusting?
I am a fence builder and I prefer round posts they are much stronger then post masters and about half the cost, they are alot easier to do repairs on. You can easily just replace sections as needed. In Denver for an example a t-30 round post with brackets and screws runs you $20 these promaster I see them for about $34 each, that's a $14 difference per post which when doing a large fence makes a big difference.
@@JoeEverest I'm sure it also depends on the location, I use fence supply companies that sell them, I just can't get customers to want to pay the cost. I've seen first hand post masters mangled in after saver wind storms, but yet to see 2 3/8" t-30 aka lg30 do it, I just seen the whole panels ripped off and a couple of times brackets bent. I'm sure post masters are great though and would love to use them. Can you drive them in? I usually just drive lg30 3' down on corners and every third post and drive the other line posts 2- 2.5' down. I only us sch40 on our commercial jobs. I would really need to see a post master survive a bend test over a sch40 to believe it. That would be crazy.
@@brianmi40 Not at my lowes they are now $39 per post and $29 per post when you buy 20+. Schedule 40- 2 3/8 round post with brackets runs me now $23 once again a big savings especially for customers.
@@jr303official $23 doesn't include needed mounting brackets (3) to use round posts. Construction time is higher to attach brackets raising labor costs to ultimately be MORE EXPENSIVE, and you cannot conceal round posts without MORE brackets and the result is a way thicker fence.
@@brianmi40 The post is $18 the three brackets are $6.50 for the three and a cap, $1.50, so total is $26 and I drive them in with a post driver. So no holes and concrete. So it saves me time and labor and no concrete cost, so $26 vs $34. I have never had my fences fail although I have replaced these "postmates" posts. I have installed them at owners request but I prefer sch40.
Hi. Great videos. Thank you! I wanted to ask about the steel posts... Do you drive them into the ground with a power driver without any concrete? That's what I'd like to do. Digging holes for wood posts and burying them in concrete just seems wrong to me. But I'm not sure if a steel post will stay true over the years simply pounded into the ground. I have hard clay/limestone so I'm feeling confident but I wanted to check with you first in case I'm missing something important. I live in the north so I was going to drive the posts 3-4 feet under ground, maybe 3.5ft. Thoughts?
I need to fix my fence so I am going to look into using these to fix my fence. My verticle post have shifted and heaved up causing damage. I know how I am going to fix it now. Thanks. 😁
going to replace my fence here in Tampa FL this summer, knowing which post has better wind resistance and resistance to rot has made me decide to use steel posts.
Thanks for the great video. I'm in Michigan and am wondering about the best way to set these. The front line is 44 inches and I believe the taller post is 92 inches. What is the best way to achieve a privacy fence height while maintaining sturdiness?
I have the same question. I’m reading conflicting info. Some say you need to be below frost line, similar to your area, some say just follow the 1/2 to 1/3 rule depending on the fence height.
@Stride Endeavors I'm actually about to install my privacy fence and went with 10ft galvanized post. So I will be putting them about 4 feet in the ground or a little more than that.
I just put up a 100’ long fence last week using these for the first time. Yes, they were a bit expensive but the ease of installation and peace of mind that this fence will last a long time was worth it to me.
A great tip to save a lot of money on these posts: Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot. Purchase enough posts to get the contractor discount. I know at Lowe’s, you have to buy at least 20. Use what you need, and return the rest. You end up keeping the discount, and save $12-14/ post. Right now with the cedar prices skyrocketing, you’ll actually pay less for the steel posts!
@@Legobatmanmw3 , I needed 15 for my fence, it was cheaper to buy 20 posts due to the bulk discount but it says right on the receipt that if you return any, they will change the discount back. Anyway, a friend of mine is making a fence soon so he’s buying my remaining posts.
Can these be used to replace a rotten wood 4x4” post without having to add a longer horizontal 2x4 (to which the boards are attached)- because it looks like the steel post is not 4x4” in dimension?
I wish I could afford to use these steel posts but I've got 1.5 acres to fence and these costs $100/each for the size I would need. That adds about 3k plus or minus a bit.
Hell do you have any ideas for reinforcing wood posts or fencing built on a incline. The sidewalk on the outside is approximately 6 to 9 inches higher than and some of the dirt has eroded exposing the concrete. Because of the slope putting dirt back around it will be a waste of time. Any ideas.
What if someone were to use aluminum for the horizontal braces? Or beams? I'm not a fence guy. Like steel posts.. Aluminum horizontal pieces and then with wooden pickets I guess?
Google shows no aluminum fence posts, just entire aluminum fence sections - see through style... You just don't get added value for the aluminum as wood stringers are most certainly guaranteed to outlast wood pickets (by being twice as thick for starters), and it will complicate construction to switch over to attaching with bolts rather than a standard screw length for the entire job. It will also create a metal / wood mix viewed from the yard, that can be all wood, if you put a picket over the post as shown in the video.
I can definitely follow your logic, and appreciate it. Those are some nice looking examples. "Good fences make good neighbors" 😂 That's your side and this is my side! As long as I don't know you're there, we'll get along just fine. 😋 You did a great presentation. My constructive criticism is skip the asking for likes, subscribes, and bells at the beginning. You get that. Even at the end it's a bit gratuitous, people know what to do by now, but that's the place for it if you feel compelled to remind people. Blessings!
Can I run 1x6 pickets horizontally along the channel in the postmaster and just attach the flat top picket from one post to the next? Or is that too flimsy? Maybe I just lay in 2×4s horizontally from fence post to fence post?
To bad we dont have that kind of posts in Poland. I noticed 1 thing, do you have any issue with water that can get between post and board that covers it?
Just found this video as my wife and I are building a house in Colorado and it will be finished in March 2021. We are on a corner lot so only share 2 sides with a rear neighbor and a side house. In some photos the rear house already has a fence up but it appears to be a manufactured panel fence and to us might look a bit cheap or not as premium. I'm considering going with a horizontal fence and have priced out the lumber and materials I would need. After some consideration even though we could save about 2k by NOT doing the rear fence I think it would look off considering ours would be horizontal and theirs would be vertical. I like what you mentioned about the steel fence posts being slimmer in size compared to using a typical 4x4 or 6x6 wooden fence post. The outside of our fence would be flat and the inside of our yard would be where the supports would be and then like you did we can cap the steel posts with the wood. What are you thoughts.? Originally we were going to use the 4x4 posts and then have 5/4 metal U brackets to then slide the wood in which would make it equal distance on the outside and inside of fence?
@@JoeEverest We were thinking going this route: www.lowes.com/pd/Common-3-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Actual-3-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Black-Galvanized-Steel-Decorative-Metal-Fence-Universal-Post/1000006196 Leaving the posts exposed and then centering a U bracket or channel down left and right sides of the steel and sliding the wood in the channel using red cedar with a nice clear stain and sealer. I think this looks really modern, yet warm from the cedar esp horizontal layout. On the inside of the fence we would probably do a wood plank 3''x6'' in the center of each 6' fence section or a 2''x6' black steel bracket to add anti sag support. From the outside "street side would look seamless.
the Master Halco posts are the way to fly. I'm a DIY'r and replaced my own fence when a storm here in Okla knocked my old one down. They are so much better looking than the tubular steel posts and they can be covered (by design) with a picket for a "finished look" on the exposed side of the fence. The only issue is getting them as a DIY guy vs being a contractor. I found that locally....the distributor is "not supposed to sell to the public", but they did anyway.
Would this be appropriate for an area that gets ankle wet deep at times? I’m by the beach and a corner of my yard is in a low spot by a marshy grass area as it’s a low water table. An old chain link fence used to be here but posts have gone out of plumb. Was thinking a cement footer/ retaining wall about 1 foot tall with these posted embedded in as in the future I plan to raise the level of the lawn. Would these z posts be the best solution? Or would galvanized fence posts with wood fence attached work just as well? Thank You
Where can I get these Fence Posts in Ontario, Canada. I am looking for 10' fence posts only finding 9'. Been searching for sometime, most people have never heard of using it for wood fence along with the foam. Hoping someone can offer some insight.
Burn or char the bottom of the wood fence post to prevent rotting and termite damage it’s an ancient Japanese technique many videos demonstrating it here on RUclips
@@69A12SuperBee Banned because it's carcinogenic. My father used to treat all his ground contact wood, but you can't buy it today, and for good reason.
@@69A12SuperBee you do realize you can't wave a "bush" over wood to preserve it right? Bushes or not, the chemical extracted is carcinogenic. I don't recommend boiling and eating the bushes.
Joe, we have a 42" frost line by code. I want to use metal posts for a finished 6' tall cedar fence. Do you recommend I still use concrete to set these, or can I just backfill with dirt since they are so deep? What is your experience with foam for metal posts?
How would I retrofit the Postmasters into an existing fence to replace a rotten 4x4 post? Would I need to also replace the cross beams because they’d be too short? Is there an ingenious attachment piece or wood joining method?
Sorry to say windspeeds around 100 kmh until 120 kmh 62-64 mhp are getting normal here in the fall and the beginning of spring so what i did is : drive sticks diagonally into the ground, and tension a rope between the fence and the stick in a loop put a stick through that loop and twist it tight so that the fence has more strength, you put the stick with which you tighten the rope into the ground...next time I will definitely use other posts than the wooden ones I have now
Can I use the existing round steel posts of a chain link fence to upgrade to painted wood? I have about a 4-foot picket fence running up to the chain link.
Hey Joe. I’m building a fence - part of it will be over a concrete patio. Is there a way to anchor the steel post to the existing concrete patio or do I need to drill a hole into concrete and bury?
I live on a hill in the northeast and we get hurricanes and blizzards so I need to get the strongest setup possible...im doing research now n plan to have a fence put in the spring...we want to go with vinyl but I have no clue lol ...great video tho...i will keep the steel posts in mind for sure
To stop fence post from rotting while or after you pour concrete in the hole for the post frame up (4) 2x4, (one one each side) about 4", (or use a 2x4 on its side and go 3-1/2") away from the post to have a 3-1/2" thick and tall block of concrete at the base of the post to keep the bottom of the post out of the water when it rains. You can make it pyramids shaped so the water runs off and away from the bottom of the post.
Would it be ok to just drive the steel post or even just pack them in a hole say 3’, or is concrete an absolute? We have wet clay here in S. Louisiana. Thanks👍🏼
If using Postmasters against an existing fence, how do you screw the rails in place? Do you have to offset the new fence posts enough to get an impact driver between the posts and the old fence?
I have started building my 200 ft of fence with Post Master/Master Halco metal post. I like them...easy to use and seems very sturdy. Pickets will go bad before the post do. The cost diff is big, but for all the effort...might as well dish out more money and do it right. I am happy so far (only about 75 feet in...)
This is a very good concept. But it is nothing new. Back in the early 80s I had a neighbor that was a fence contractor. He used steel post and rails to make his wood panels. The post were never set in concrete. He would install sleeves into the ground, then the post sat in the sleeves. This way you could move the panels into different configurations around your property. It was a real nice setup, but it was big bucks back then. I couldn't imagine what it would cost now. Also thanks for sharing all your knowledge. But like other people have stated. It would be nice to see what you are talking about, being performed so we all can get a better understanding of your concept. I'm just getting ready to build a little 100' fence. But I already bought and sealed the 4x4 post. But for my next job I would really like to try your concept. Thanks again.
I replaced my fence this spring and used these posts with cedar rails and pickets. Glad I did. I also covered the posts with a picket. These posts are very solid. I much preferred using these over round metal posts on the gate posts.
Round steel posts for your gate??? As long as the gate is in a run rather then at a corner or end, a 4x4 will not have an issue holding up to a 10 foot double panel gate. If the gate is at a corner or end, steel is not gonna make a difference anyway as the weight is gonna pull the post out of the ground.
Thx. I have a hood neighbor fence that comprises 4x4@ posts that support 2x4" rails laod flar (4" side horizontal). When a post rots out, i remove the rotted wood from the cement, and the cement is in good shape. I want to insert a steel post into the old cement, that is designed to support these flat 2x4s. Had anyone found such a product?
It doesn't look significantly different from a post if you have a wood cover over it. The only main difference is the longevity. How do I drive a nail into the steel post? I'm going to need a bigger hammer.
Guys that need the posts more than 2.5’ in the ground typically weld round pipe to the base of the 10’ postmaster posts. I don’t know of a postmaster post that’s made longer than 10’.
I use post master steel posts. They are as good as day one 19 years later. My neighbor on the east fence that was in before I put mine in is wooden posts. We've replaced 5 posts on that side and he already lost the entire back section. Metal, good quality ones like the u shapes ones are well worth the money. Great video.
can i dig the postmaster 1.5 feet into the ground instead of 2 feet? my contractor said because it has to go 2 feet into the ground that he can only make my fence 5 1/2 feet
Get a new contractor. Keep in mind your pickets can and should be extending above your topmost stringer, right? I set the posts 20" in concrete and all looks great on the 7.5' posts: 7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
My biggest issue with a post like this is the high chance of getting wasp havens in the posts. Is there a type of top cover you can get to stop it from getting wasp attention?
I really wanna try these but... the bottom of my fence is about 3 feet concrete brick with 5-6 feet of wood pickets. We'll need to change the wood soon because its rotted. How would you go use a steel fence post like this when my base is already cemented? Do I need to drill a big enough hole and refill it with cement?
The orange makes it look like you're filming from the penitentiary but I still like your videos.
Or Home depot but I understand your confusion
“Hi, this is Joe coming to you from prison. Let me tell you my experience and why good fences make good neighbors. “
Same
@@muricanriot1376 you are STUUUUUUUPID🤣🤣🤣🤣
That shit cracked me up
Imagine the quality of fencing this guy will be building when he gets out!
I have postmasters for my fence. Had hurricane come through on year 3 and they did move and parts of fence are crooked. A couple of them on the base rusted. I still have them but some of my fence leans. I can only assume it was a poor install and labor job. I've replaced the screws for the 2x4 into the post master with longer ones too. I think my installer could've done better.
I used these post years ago. They are great and make putting up a wood fence fast and strong. I don’t own the house anymore. But I have seen it driving by, and the fence still looks great. That’s been over 15 years that I put the fence up.
I love that top down angle @4:45! Really helps me understand the concepts you’re talking about! Thanks for another great video, Joe!
I've done a number of wood fence replacements over the years. It's always been a matter of what the customer was willing to pay. In my own yard, I replaced the ratty basket-weave wooden fence with a new fence this summer. I wanted to use the posts you're talking about, but really couldn't find a good supplier locally, and once the train started rolling, well... I needed to get going quickly. I ended up using 8' 2 3/8" steel fence pipe posts. Since the ground was very rocky, I was unable to get them set as deeply as I wanted, so I had to drill into the rock and drive 1/2" rebar in; then concreting the pipes in place, they were super solid, and I expect they'll outlast me. I also used bottom trim, top trim, and a horizontal top plate (so critters can run freely without fearing dogs). To top it all off, I sprayed the entire thing, both sides, with clear water sealer. And, wouldn't you know it? Spent $2K on materials on the fence, and about $5K last summer redoing the back deck and adding an industrial steel deck cover and NOW the wife wants to move :(.
Hahahahahahahaha. Awesome story!!! I feel for you
haha sorry that was pretty funny. well the new owners are going to love all the beautiful work you have done ;) God bless you sir. I am a wife myself and I hope I never do that to my husband unless for a really good reason. Jesus is LORD.
Welcome to the club. Where have we heard that before....?😅🙃☺️🙄
I started installing privacy fencing as a side job a few years back. And the biggest issue is NO ONE wants to spend more $$$ on a better fence. Even trying to convince people to use cedar pickets over PT pine was next to impossible. Pressure Treated pine pickets are horrible. They shrink alot more than cedar and become more brittle once they dry out. But almost everyone wanted it done for the absolute cheapest price. I couldn't imaging trying to get some one to buy into spending $40/post for metal vs $12/post for wood.
I've built a fair number of fences in the last 50 years. Early on, some fancy Japanese fences, with clear heart redwood, set in concrete..... yeah, they all rotted out fairly quickly. Within 10 years they were weak. Pressure treated lasts longer for sure, not quite as pretty. I put in a fence, (TALL at 8') where I attached it to fairly heavy chain link fence. That is still standing. But what I found is that by using brackets like Simpson column bases, the heavy duty kind, the fences were totally durable. I never do it any other way now. The beauty of the column bases is that I can use either a string or a laser, (easier) to set all the bases in a line. I put the two straps "along" the fence line, so that the post actually can be tapped in or out to be perfectly in line. This give you almost 1" (more than enough) adjustment. I dig the hole the required depth, throw some rebar in if I want to, and usually use a short piece of sono tube so that the concrete is a few inches OFF the ground. Don't want water standing on the bottom of the post. (take care to make sure that the actual base of the bracket is not below grade of the concrete. Pour all the concrete, use the string of laser to make sure the column bases are in line and square to the fence line. Let it set for a couple days.
When attaching the posts, put the post in, (again, PT will last longer, but other wood will do "ok" as there is NO wood touching the ground. I put the post into the bracket then put a large C Clamp from one side of the bracket straps to the other, and tighten down a little. When the base is in the right spot, I use levels to make sure the post is plumb. If it isn't, tap it in place to be plumb, BOTH directions. The straps will slip on the wood enough so that it CAN be made perfectly plumb. Using the laser or string, you can make these posts PERFECTLY plumb and in line! Once they are, drill the holes for the bolts, (or if you prefer the SDS screw model, set the screws) and you have the posts solid and you can attach the rails. I now prefer to use the "concealed flange 2x hangers for the rails. They attach quickly, easily, and don't rot out like blocks will, or toe nailed ALWAYS rot out.
Ok, I'm sure someone will say that column bases, even the heavy duty type I use, are not strong enough for a fence, on a 4x4 post. IF the post is 8' long above grade, Possibly not. If 6', it is. Is it as "stiff" as a post set in concrete? NO. Absolutely not, but 10 years later, it is still the same, and by then the other is getting loose and is not as stiff as the column base.... And 50 years later it is still fine and the one in concrete is only a memory. Also, I've had a couple where they were set near a driveway and a car hit the post and broke it. (one, an 6x6, was broken by a dozer) IF a post does get broken, normally you HATE pulling out that concrete and putting in new concrete. But with the column bases, you just unbolt the damaged post and put in a new one. Simple repair.
I've done this method for probably 30 fences or pergolas , including 6 on my own property. They are all still standing and good as new, many are now close to 50 years old. YES, column bases are not cheap. $20 to $30 often each. And concealed flange hangers are not as cheap as toe nailing. But the durability, the repair ability, and the ease of construction make this method very good for most non professionals. I've seen even professional builders make fences that weren't plumb, or inline.
I need you to come build my fence :)
Haha
I’m just putting up a welded wire fence around my garden but want the posts removable and I think your method would make that possible 🤷🏼♀️ But it sounds like using column bases will get spendy, it’s costing a fortune to keep the dang deer out of my garden grrrrrrrr !
Do you have a video or a photo of your method you can put up here on RUclips?
When you said you put the column bases' two flanges "along" the fence line, do you mean that the flanges are actually Perpendicular to a string line or laser line representing the fence line?
I figure the flanges have to be perpendicular to allow you to tap the post toward you or away from you to fine-tune the alignment.
If the flanges were in line with the fence line, you could tap the posts side-to-side for fine adjustment but I wouldn't think there is much need for that adjustment direction - unless you were off a bit in being 8' between posts.
However, if the support flanges were perpendicular to the fence line, the disadvantage seems to be that you won't have the support flanges being able to help combat the back and forth impacts of high winds hitting the fence broadsides.
Can you clarify what you meant?
As a property manager I've replaced a few fences and yes, digging out old post and concrete gets real old, sometimes if possible I just design in new holes and move fence over a bit. Just cut down old post below ground level and cover. EZ
But the only real problem I find is the ground line where water and air meet is the only place it rots. Above and below ground it last a real long time. Either no water above ground, or no air below so rot is reduced, just the ground line is where you get both and it rots.
So Now I add a 2 inch or so collar of concrete above the ground line so it stays drier, does not rot much as far as I can tell or slows it down a lot. For $90-$100 per steel post, I can get a lot of high school kids to dig holes for me. Just too expensive. Dont let the wood post just come out of the ground, give it some protection with a concrete collar using a carboard tube to set the post in. This is real nice but hard to justify and extra $1000 or 2 for these steel post. $20-30 per is about all I'd pay.
Hi This is Oswaldo from Texas l have question:
Where can l get those metal fence post 11’ high?
30 years ago my fence was installed with round 2" steel galvanized posts with treated horizontal 2x4 lagged to the posts. Still going strong, couple a times a year I go around and reattach the pickets that have come loose.
That’s awesome! I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Treated lumber was also much better quality back then. Today's lumber is made out of cardboard
Liking how easy it looks like these will be and the longevity. What do you do at corners when using this type of post? When looking at this particular style of post I did not see a corner version.
We used these on all 3 sides in 3 consecutive years. They were fairly expensive, but I just told myself I’m never digging another post hole as long as I live, and it was worth it. The oldest side is almost 10 years old and has had zero problems. They are also very strong, and don’t move during high winds.
@joeeverest have you ever damaged the postmaster post from manually driving it? If so, how did you straighten that out so you don’t need to cut the top of the post
Thanks!
Thank you Michael!
Does the steel need to go below the frost line like a wood post? do the width still need to be triple the width of post. So many questions. I really like this look! MO resident
Do you have video of fence replacement using these metal posts?
Absolutely love the channel. Putting steel posts in the ground makes so much more sense as my last 6x6 corner post warped. I gotta ask though $95 for one of the Halco posts? Am I looking at something wrong? Someone help me out here please.
I purchased these for my fence replacement and think they are well worth the added expense. Really like the thin profile these offer and obviously the strength of being steel.
How sturdy are they compared to other post
I love PostMaster posts. I built a fence for my Mom about 25 years ago. Standard redwood posts. They failed in around 15 years - totally failed! When I replaced the fence, I went with PostMaster posts. The real difference (I love to overbuild) was that before installing any of the rest of the fence (after the posts were set), I framed out and poured a 8' wide by 6' thick "footing" along the entire length of the fence. This went around the steel posts (isometrically around both sides) and keeps the new redwood fence from ever touching the ground. I went for a 3/4" gap above the new concrete. No grass, no dirt can ever get up to the fence boards without serious neglect. No wicking of moisture into the fence boards was the main idea. Of course it was an additional bit of work, but I seriously doubt that I will ever have to do anything to that fence while she is living there. Money/time well spent.
Wicking isn't the only issue if you have a lawn sprinkler and you'll also face splash during a light rain off of that concrete onto the bottoms. Rot is caused by cycling between WET and DRY, over and over and over. That's why the posts always rot right at ground contact: it's where the most frequent wetting/drying occurs. 2nd to that is the tops, where any sprinkle of rain gets 'em wet.
since you have the grass off the bottoms, just spray the bottom 6" with preservative, and then the top 3", every year or two, and it'll double the life.
I work for a fence company in Nova Scotia and all wood fences that we install use 6x6 wood post. Do you think it would be a good idea to suggest this post master post to the company?
I wonder if you put joist tape across the top of the horizontal 2x4s, how that would extend the life of the fence
Joe Everest, that long sleeve shirt makes you look like you just broke out of prison...
I thought the same thing within 5 seconds of the video
The prison tattoos sells it.
Don't wear orange.
@@JoeEverest i think it's the orange with the horizontal background. i bet if you change the background it'll change the view of prison.
He is the fence guru they couldn't build a fence to hold him in.
I have a section of fence that needs replaced and I would probably need 5 of these metal posts at most. I need to find some videos on installing them.
How long do these post last? It kind of seems like the normal base rot that occurs overtime would allow these post to get pushed over by winds much more than earlier than the round post.
I live in NYC...I don't have a backyard let alone a fence.....but I still watched this haha
We have a prison escape guys... He has an orange jump suit on and he is talking about metal fences .
Haha
Thanks for all your videos and help… I need to post my work for you to see me in action lol … 👍🏽…
When use metal post (both styles, flat post and round w/ brackets) what are a few tips or tricks installing them when or having access to one side of fence?
Better to install that section of post backwards or pre build post and wood braces and stand them up together! Just was wondering…. Because I’ve done all types of things… some yards make US into wizards getting the job done right
I've lived in hurricane country my whole life. I had a wood privacy fence with both wood and steel posts. Steel posts will rust and snap in high winds and wood posts will rot and break also. I prefer the wood posts being they hold up better in high winds.
My local Lowes carries these for $26 each... and right next to it is a T-post for $4 each. Does this make any sense? Why are these so expensive?
I saw in some posts below...that it probably has to do with their warranties, quality and how the steel was treated/coated to support the warranty.
Its a money grab
Because they're a specialty item that only serves one purpose. It costs money for lowes to have that stuff sitting on the shelf.
@@samwagner31 Yup. Nail on the head. Most people don't realise this, space is the single most valuable item for a store.
Here in Northern Nevada, these fence posts go for $35 ($30 if purchase 15 or more) at the local BORG stores. Went to a local fence contractor. Picked up the Postmaster+ (not the originals) for $39.
When I built a fence if I could budget it I ran a 2X10 on the ground centered off the fence. I notched it out to slip down over the posts and it worked great to keep grass and weeds down along the fence line. Yes it was extra work but years after it was installed you could still run a mower over it to cut the grass that grew up to the 2X10. It looked good and worked well. My parents loved it after their fence was built and it made grass cutting easier.
You can also just cut a 1x3 or 1x4 ground contact and screw them horizontally through the fence pickets, even one on both side to achieve the same thing.
Thank you for showing that better post design. I have a fence built with 4x6 posts, not set at the proper ground height. I installed a pair of round posts to support 2 wood posts that were cracking off at the bottom, 20+ years after install. When the other posts go, I now know the proper fence posts for replacement. One thing I learned, with round posts the adapters can add a lot of expense. I like this, the beauty of wood w/ the post strength of steel.
Very welcome, always happy to help!
Well I finally got a client to go with post masters and I really like the fencing. 7ft board on board with a cedar cap. Looks great and strong.
Congrats! How did it go?
@@JoeEverest excellent you have a way for me to send a pick
In Florida we often set the posts in concrete to prevent tipping in winds. Is that also done with steel posts?
Would those hidden posts work on a shadow box style fence that’s mandated by our HOA for high winds to pass through and on the coast with such bad rusting?
Can't butt up to another fence with post masters. can't screw the rails on. If you turn them backwards then pickets pop out at each post.
I am a fence builder and I prefer round posts they are much stronger then post masters and about half the cost, they are alot easier to do repairs on. You can easily just replace sections as needed. In Denver for an example a t-30 round post with brackets and screws runs you $20 these promaster I see them for about $34 each, that's a $14 difference per post which when doing a large fence makes a big difference.
@@JoeEverest I'm sure it also depends on the location, I use fence supply companies that sell them, I just can't get customers to want to pay the cost. I've seen first hand post masters mangled in after saver wind storms, but yet to see 2 3/8" t-30 aka lg30 do it, I just seen the whole panels ripped off and a couple of times brackets bent. I'm sure post masters are great though and would love to use them. Can you drive them in? I usually just drive lg30 3' down on corners and every third post and drive the other line posts 2- 2.5' down. I only us sch40 on our commercial jobs. I would really need to see a post master survive a bend test over a sch40 to believe it. That would be crazy.
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
@@brianmi40 Not at my lowes they are now $39 per post and $29 per post when you buy 20+. Schedule 40- 2 3/8 round post with brackets runs me now $23 once again a big savings especially for customers.
@@jr303official $23 doesn't include needed mounting brackets (3) to use round posts. Construction time is higher to attach brackets raising labor costs to ultimately be MORE EXPENSIVE, and you cannot conceal round posts without MORE brackets and the result is a way thicker fence.
@@brianmi40 The post is $18 the three brackets are $6.50 for the three and a cap, $1.50, so total is $26 and I drive them in with a post driver. So no holes and concrete. So it saves me time and labor and no concrete cost, so $26 vs $34. I have never had my fences fail although I have replaced these "postmates" posts. I have installed them at owners request but I prefer sch40.
Thanks for getting straight to the point with excellent points at that.
Very welcome, I appreciate you watching!
Can you mount 6x8 cedar panels to a steel post with no issue? Rather than using individual pickets.
Is there a way to use this on a post that supports a gate hinging on that post?
Hi. Great videos. Thank you! I wanted to ask about the steel posts... Do you drive them into the ground with a power driver without any concrete? That's what I'd like to do. Digging holes for wood posts and burying them in concrete just seems wrong to me. But I'm not sure if a steel post will stay true over the years simply pounded into the ground. I have hard clay/limestone so I'm feeling confident but I wanted to check with you first in case I'm missing something important. I live in the north so I was going to drive the posts 3-4 feet under ground, maybe 3.5ft. Thoughts?
I need to fix my fence so I am going to look into using these to fix my fence. My verticle post have shifted and heaved up causing damage. I know how I am going to fix it now. Thanks. 😁
going to replace my fence here in Tampa FL this summer, knowing which post has better wind resistance and resistance to rot has made me decide to use steel posts.
Saint Petersburg here, same decision:
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes (20 qty).
How can you use a post master fence post while building a horse fence or a five cross buck fence?
Thanks for the great video. I'm in Michigan and am wondering about the best way to set these. The front line is 44 inches and I believe the taller post is 92 inches. What is the best way to achieve a privacy fence height while maintaining sturdiness?
I have the same question. I’m reading conflicting info. Some say you need to be below frost line, similar to your area, some say just follow the 1/2 to 1/3 rule depending on the fence height.
@Stride Endeavors I'm actually about to install my privacy fence and went with 10ft galvanized post. So I will be putting them about 4 feet in the ground or a little more than that.
I just put up a 100’ long fence last week using these for the first time. Yes, they were a bit expensive but the ease of installation and peace of mind that this fence will last a long time was worth it to me.
A great tip to save a lot of money on these posts:
Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot. Purchase enough posts to get the contractor discount. I know at Lowe’s, you have to buy at least 20. Use what you need, and return the rest. You end up keeping the discount, and save $12-14/ post. Right now with the cedar prices skyrocketing, you’ll actually pay less for the steel posts!
@@Legobatmanmw3 , I needed 15 for my fence, it was cheaper to buy 20 posts due to the bulk discount but it says right on the receipt that if you return any, they will change the discount back. Anyway, a friend of mine is making a fence soon so he’s buying my remaining posts.
@@TomsTinkeringandAdventures it could vary by region. Here in Colorado Springs, I do it at Lowe’s all the time. Never loose the discount.
@@Legobatmanmw3 cool deal. My sister lives in Colorado Springs, nice place.
$2 more is "a bit expensive"?
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
Keep these videos coming. I was building a fence a few months ago. And there was little to no information about these u posts.
i see what you did there
just seeing this now myself, i like it.
How do u build a simple gate with the no dig option metal posts?
Can these be used to replace a rotten wood 4x4” post without having to add a longer horizontal 2x4 (to which the boards are attached)- because it looks like the steel post is not 4x4” in dimension?
I wish I could afford to use these steel posts but I've got 1.5 acres to fence and these costs $100/each for the size I would need. That adds about 3k plus or minus a bit.
Hell do you have any ideas for reinforcing wood posts or fencing built on a incline. The sidewalk on the outside is approximately 6 to 9 inches higher than and some of the dirt has eroded exposing the concrete. Because of the slope putting dirt back around it will be a waste of time. Any ideas.
Im. From midwest . do u bell the bottom of ur holes and not back fill any before setn post. No ice cream post
What if someone were to use aluminum for the horizontal braces? Or beams? I'm not a fence guy. Like steel posts.. Aluminum horizontal pieces and then with wooden pickets I guess?
Google shows no aluminum fence posts, just entire aluminum fence sections - see through style... You just don't get added value for the aluminum as wood stringers are most certainly guaranteed to outlast wood pickets (by being twice as thick for starters), and it will complicate construction to switch over to attaching with bolts rather than a standard screw length for the entire job. It will also create a metal / wood mix viewed from the yard, that can be all wood, if you put a picket over the post as shown in the video.
Wow! it's been a while since I have put a fence post in the ground...had no ideal they had these...I'm so behind...
I can definitely follow your logic, and appreciate it. Those are some nice looking examples.
"Good fences make good neighbors" 😂
That's your side and this is my side! As long as I don't know you're there, we'll get along just fine. 😋
You did a great presentation. My constructive criticism is skip the asking for likes, subscribes, and bells at the beginning. You get that. Even at the end it's a bit gratuitous, people know what to do by now, but that's the place for it if you feel compelled to remind people. Blessings!
Can you cut them to be used with a 4’ wood fence ?
Don’t know why I got suggested this channel or why I keep watching but it’s some good gear
Can I run 1x6 pickets horizontally along the channel in the postmaster and just attach the flat top picket from one post to the next? Or is that too flimsy? Maybe I just lay in 2×4s horizontally from fence post to fence post?
I’d worry about the lack of structure, you’d want to run the 2x4s horizontally.
To bad we dont have that kind of posts in Poland. I noticed 1 thing, do you have any issue with water that can get between post and board that covers it?
Can you make a how to vid on a horizontal fence using post masters? Thank you
If you look it up on master halcos website they have a installation manual just for that
Just found this video as my wife and I are building a house in Colorado and it will be finished in March 2021. We are on a corner lot so only share 2 sides with a rear neighbor and a side house. In some photos the rear house already has a fence up but it appears to be a manufactured panel fence and to us might look a bit cheap or not as premium. I'm considering going with a horizontal fence and have priced out the lumber and materials I would need.
After some consideration even though we could save about 2k by NOT doing the rear fence I think it would look off considering ours would be horizontal and theirs would be vertical.
I like what you mentioned about the steel fence posts being slimmer in size compared to using a typical 4x4 or 6x6 wooden fence post. The outside of our fence would be flat and the inside of our yard would be where the supports would be and then like you did we can cap the steel posts with the wood. What are you thoughts.?
Originally we were going to use the 4x4 posts and then have 5/4 metal U brackets to then slide the wood in which would make it equal distance on the outside and inside of fence?
@@JoeEverest We were thinking going this route: www.lowes.com/pd/Common-3-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Actual-3-in-x-3-in-x-8-ft-Black-Galvanized-Steel-Decorative-Metal-Fence-Universal-Post/1000006196
Leaving the posts exposed and then centering a U bracket or channel down left and right sides of the steel and sliding the wood in the channel using red cedar with a nice clear stain and sealer. I think this looks really modern, yet warm from the cedar esp horizontal layout. On the inside of the fence we would probably do a wood plank 3''x6'' in the center of each 6' fence section or a 2''x6' black steel bracket to add anti sag support. From the outside "street side would look seamless.
the Master Halco posts are the way to fly. I'm a DIY'r and replaced my own fence when a storm here in Okla knocked my old one down. They are so much better looking than the tubular steel posts and they can be covered (by design) with a picket for a "finished look" on the exposed side of the fence. The only issue is getting them as a DIY guy vs being a contractor. I found that locally....the distributor is "not supposed to sell to the public", but they did anyway.
Would this be appropriate for an area that gets ankle wet deep at times? I’m by the beach and a corner of my yard is in a low spot by a marshy grass area as it’s a low water table. An old chain link fence used to be here but posts have gone out of plumb. Was thinking a cement footer/ retaining wall about 1 foot tall with these posted embedded in as in the future I plan to raise the level of the lawn. Would these z posts be the best solution? Or would galvanized fence posts with wood fence attached work just as well? Thank You
Where can I get these Fence Posts in Ontario, Canada.
I am looking for 10' fence posts only finding 9'.
Been searching for sometime, most people have never heard of using it for wood fence along with the foam. Hoping someone can offer some insight.
Burn or char the bottom of the wood fence post to prevent rotting and termite damage it’s an ancient Japanese technique many videos demonstrating it here on RUclips
Dip ‘em in creosote.
You can also dip them in tar, that's what utility companies do with power poles.
@@69A12SuperBee Banned because it's carcinogenic. My father used to treat all his ground contact wood, but you can't buy it today, and for good reason.
@@brianmi40 well then, I guess the EPA better come ban the creosote bushes I have on my property. 🤣
@@69A12SuperBee you do realize you can't wave a "bush" over wood to preserve it right?
Bushes or not, the chemical extracted is carcinogenic. I don't recommend boiling and eating the bushes.
Joe, we have a 42" frost line by code. I want to use metal posts for a finished 6' tall cedar fence. Do you recommend I still use concrete to set these, or can I just backfill with dirt since they are so deep? What is your experience with foam for metal posts?
How would I retrofit the Postmasters into an existing fence to replace a rotten 4x4 post? Would I need to also replace the cross beams because they’d be too short? Is there an ingenious attachment piece or wood joining method?
Sorry to say windspeeds around 100 kmh until 120 kmh 62-64 mhp are getting normal here in the fall and the beginning of spring so what i did is : drive sticks diagonally into the ground, and tension a rope between the fence and the stick in a loop put a stick through that loop and twist it tight so that the fence has more strength, you put the stick with which you tighten the rope into the ground...next time I will definitely use other posts than the wooden ones I have now
can steel post be used to put up horizontal fence?
Can I use the existing round steel posts of a chain link fence to upgrade to painted wood? I have about a 4-foot picket fence running up to the chain link.
How can you use steel posts on a double sided nice looking tongue and groove cedar fence???
Do these need to be set in concrete? or driven into the ground? Thanks
Either, great question! Thanks for watching!
Will they work in sandy soil? How do you brace the corner posts?
You bet, you’d just want to set them deeper. These posts would be set in the same manner that their wood counterparts would.
Hey Joe. I’m building a fence - part of it will be over a concrete patio. Is there a way to anchor the steel post to the existing concrete patio or do I need to drill a hole into concrete and bury?
@@JoeEverest Thanks Joe
I live on a hill in the northeast and we get hurricanes and blizzards so I need to get the strongest setup possible...im doing research now n plan to have a fence put in the spring...we want to go with vinyl but I have no clue lol ...great video tho...i will keep the steel posts in mind for sure
Would screws be strong enough for the fence rails? I though id have to pre drill and put nut and bolts in there.😅
Yep! We’ve been using exterior coated screws for the last decade with these posts! Great question, thanks for watching!
How do you turn corners other than 90 degrees?
To stop fence post from rotting while or after you pour concrete in the hole for the post frame up (4) 2x4, (one one each side) about 4", (or use a 2x4 on its side and go 3-1/2") away from the post to have a 3-1/2" thick and tall block of concrete at the base of the post to keep the bottom of the post out of the water when it rains. You can make it pyramids shaped so the water runs off and away from the bottom of the post.
Can I use these posts with metal stud framing?
Would it be ok to just drive the steel post or even just pack them in a hole say 3’, or is concrete an absolute? We have wet clay here in S. Louisiana. Thanks👍🏼
@@JoeEverest Good deal, I’m 30 minutes away so I’ll give it a shot. Thx
I want to add a 2x12 or two to the bottom of my fence and have it be 8’ tall. Is there any metal post that are tall enough for this?
They do sell longer postmaster posts, or you could fabricate a longer one.
If using Postmasters against an existing fence, how do you screw the rails in place? Do you have to offset the new fence posts enough to get an impact driver between the posts and the old fence?
I have started building my 200 ft of fence with Post Master/Master Halco metal post. I like them...easy to use and seems very sturdy. Pickets will go bad before the post do. The cost diff is big, but for all the effort...might as well dish out more money and do it right. I am happy so far (only about 75 feet in...)
Big?
4x4 10' ground contact red pine: $20.57 Home Depot,
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
This is a very good concept. But it is nothing new.
Back in the early 80s I had a neighbor that was a fence contractor. He used steel post and rails to make his wood panels. The post were never set in concrete. He would install sleeves into the ground, then the post sat in the sleeves.
This way you could move the panels into different configurations around your property.
It was a real nice setup, but it was big bucks back then.
I couldn't imagine what it would cost now.
Also thanks for sharing all your knowledge. But like other people have stated. It would be nice to see what you are talking about, being performed so we all can get a better understanding of your concept.
I'm just getting ready to build a little 100' fence. But I already bought and sealed the 4x4 post.
But for my next job I would really like to try your concept.
Thanks again.
I need six of these post master steel post. I can't get it in the Houston, TX area. Any suggestions, sir.
would this steel post work for a small 14" retaining wall. 12' deep into concrete with 14" high, back fill is about foot high??
We tried this here in Canada but most customers think it looks ugly and their not great if you live in a super cold part of Canada.
How would an adjust a gate kit be used with one of these post?
Great questions, unfortunately I’ve never installed a gate with the adjust-a-gate system.
I replaced my fence this spring and used these posts with cedar rails and pickets. Glad I did. I also covered the posts with a picket. These posts are very solid. I much preferred using these over round metal posts on the gate posts.
Round steel posts for your gate??? As long as the gate is in a run rather then at a corner or end, a 4x4 will not have an issue holding up to a 10 foot double panel gate. If the gate is at a corner or end, steel is not gonna make a difference anyway as the weight is gonna pull the post out of the ground.
@@amodosandstone9341 I didn’t use round steel posts for the gate. I used postmaster posts doubled up. I have an 8’ double gate that is working well.
What about corners or hanging gates ?
Thx. I have a hood neighbor fence that comprises 4x4@ posts that support 2x4" rails laod flar (4" side horizontal). When a post rots out, i remove the rotted wood from the cement, and the cement is in good shape. I want to insert a steel post into the old cement, that is designed to support these flat 2x4s. Had anyone found such a product?
You could certainly slide a round steel post in the void and fill it with cement!
Any suggestions on using a steel post along with a wood framed hog wire fence?
It doesn't look significantly different from a post if you have a wood cover over it. The only main difference is the longevity. How do I drive a nail into the steel post? I'm going to need a bigger hammer.
I cant find a 10.5ft long master halco or post master to do an 8 ft tall fence above ground. Know where I can find one?
Guys that need the posts more than 2.5’ in the ground typically weld round pipe to the base of the 10’ postmaster posts. I don’t know of a postmaster post that’s made longer than 10’.
I use post master steel posts. They are as good as day one 19 years later. My neighbor on the east fence that was in before I put mine in is wooden posts. We've replaced 5 posts on that side and he already lost the entire back section. Metal, good quality ones like the u shapes ones are well worth the money. Great video.
how much they cost? he's not mentioning the price at all.
What would be the minimum recommended diameter hole to auger for these types of posts since they are smaller? 2.5" or 4" or 6"?
nice video, in my country there isn't those postmaster post, there's any other alternative?
How do you build a shadowbox fence with these metal posts?
can i dig the postmaster 1.5 feet into the ground instead of 2 feet? my contractor said because it has to go 2 feet into the ground that he can only make my fence 5 1/2 feet
Get a new contractor. Keep in mind your pickets can and should be extending above your topmost stringer, right? I set the posts 20" in concrete and all looks great on the 7.5' posts:
7.5' galvanized steel "postman" style post: $22:48 Lowes. (qty 20)
My biggest issue with a post like this is the high chance of getting wasp havens in the posts. Is there a type of top cover you can get to stop it from getting wasp attention?
I really wanna try these but... the bottom of my fence is about 3 feet concrete brick with 5-6 feet of wood pickets. We'll need to change the wood soon because its rotted. How would you go use a steel fence post like this when my base is already cemented? Do I need to drill a big enough hole and refill it with cement?