He had to demonstrate it somewhere. Plus, you wanna save your energy especially if you're a DIYer and working on your own. I hope we can see it would work on a more solid post which was the whole point.
If you want to use the same post holes you won't want the soil all torn about. This method lets you get the old ones out with minimal ground damage. Then you can open the holes as little as possible for the new posts.
Thanks for the entertaining video! I had no intention of making that fence post video but last second decided to hand the camera to my daughter. Which I guess explains the awesome production quality. The method helped me but I agree there are way more professional ways to remove a fence post. Thanks for the laugh!
Yeah, a lot hatred toward a method that clearly works and even the pro gave the nod. What I don't understand is everyone pointing out that the post is wobbly. Isn't that when it is time to replace it? I certainly do not replace my 4x4 posts that are not wobbly.
I've also used a long power washer wand to remove the soil around the cement of the post and lift them out easily. Works great for when the post is rotted and you are left removing the cement. Plus it cools me off in the heat. You can also use something similar attached to a water hose. Float the cement out nearly.
I *think* he meant a bridge for the base of the jack and the jack would still be proximate to the post while the pressure is bifurcated to either side of where the footing will be breaking up through the ground.
Nice video. Very professional and respectful to the video producer. No bashing of any sort. I can see why your family has been in business for so long.
I’m in North-Eastern Canada. Too shallow, too little cement, and practically no footing. These posts would have not lasted one winter; frost would’ve popped them out. With any proper footing, this method would be tougher to do.
Same thing I commented.. not only work in certain situations if you had a post 4 ft down in the ground man with a bag of concrete around it you ain't going to pull it out with that..
Question: My daughter bought a home with a 10 -> 15 ft picket fence running parallel to the entry to her front porch. She doesn’t like the picket look. She wants to cut off the tops of the pickets so that they are even with the upper cross member. What tool should she use? How would you do it ? Grinder with cut off wheel from the rear? Dremmel with cut off wheel? Some type of saw? Manual saw? There are maybe 20 pickets, max, with a couple of inches between each.
Quick question, I have round posts that I am going to dig out and planning on replacing the fence using Lifetime Posts. Any advice if I should widen the hole or will that hole be wide enough already?
I have a leaning mailbox post. I was thinking that if I use the chain and tractor jack to pull it out, I might be able to reuse the old post. Do you think I could reuse the old one, or would I need a new post?
Not to mentions that the edges of the post we're sticking out of the concrete. There wasn't even enough concrete around the post to completely cover the post itself lol.
Yeah, but he's just making an example video. I'm sure this will work just fine with larger posts and more concrete. I would use chain as was mentioned, setting up the jig just burns time.
Hey Joe I'm a self fence builder and what I use is the same o same o farm Jack but at the top of the jack put a 8in bolt through 2x4s on each side to make a tri pod and also use steel ring as a choke collar with the chain so no slippage and also works perfect when have rotted post , just use the steel ring to choke top of the cement block and it will stay firm and pull right up
Couple things. I've never had a post this loose before I began to attempt removal. I'd agree that these posts don't have a lot of concrete. I typically use a 50lb bag or post, this looks more like half a bag. I've used the jack and 2x4 method and jack and chain method in Florida. The 2x4 method causes significant lean on my experience. The chain method provides a more straight pull and feels more safe to me.
@@Gabebar85 just depends bro. I'm near the border so we have silt, loam, rock or clay. My house was clay and loam. One side took 2x the holes and concrete, the other side took 50% of recommended.
Sorry, I hook a chain to a bobcat bucket. Someone on the ground wraps it around, and holds the loose end. This method I can pull a post a minute or faster. Might mention I use a very long chain, so the bucket is 4 feet above the ground, and the guy on the ground never bends over. Properly wrapped, no need to hook the post end. If it slips, ground guy just let’s go. Since the chain is long enough to keep him 6’ away from the work, no danger. Might add, no need to leave the hook on his end. No bobcat? Rent one. Makes boring new holes that much easier too. My helper and I removed and reset posts for over 250’ in under 4 hours. Just my two cents.
alot of times you cant use a bobcat when it comes to residential fences no one wants tracks in their back yard either that or its to tight of an area to even get one in
forreal one time i ran into this one place where they used at least 5 80lb bags of concrete and i spent days using a digging bar busting all the concrete out
My concern is I have cyclone fence and galvanized posts. And there is a ton of concrete where the bottom of jack would be. Next to pole it would be on top of concrete. Does the force break the concrete on the side of pole it’s being used on?
Depending on what the soil is like there is a ridiculously simple way to remove a fence post. It does involve digging. You dig a shallow trench around the fence post, and fill it with water. Then you come back and refill it a number of times as it soaks in. Finally you just go out and rock the post back and forth, and pull it out.
Another issue I see is if the concrete base around the post is too large you can bind the jack between post and concrete. I've used my motorcycle jack that has a forked base along with rigging straps. The jack can be moved by one person but it works better with two and the straps save from having to drill each post, you can leave some of the bottom stringer to help keep the strap from slipping. This method especially saves time when you run into a fence that was installed by a DIYer who digs the post hole around 3 to 4 foot deep, yes that would be me but only once I moved to Florida (sandy soil and hurricanes) deep holes weren't a issue when digging in clay or hardpan.
I pulled a metal clothesline pole with a handyman jack and a chain with more concrete than the pile of posts he has. I did have to dig down but hey it was over 2feet deep and a hundred pounds of crete.. I can pull snow fence posts (metal U shaped with ridges) using a chain and no digging without much fuss.
Wow!!! This is a great idea. At 61 I can still remember using car bumper Jack's to do the very same thing. Probably not many people remember those widow maker Jacks. They were notorious for jumping out from under bumper letting car fall and you were real lucky if the jack didn't fly out and hit you in the gut or pinch your hand when it started leaning towards the side. Anybody remember that? Also, Joe I'm not trying to be a jerk and I like your vidios, they're very informative, but without your logo your shirts look like inmate coveralls. Sorry
Son in Ohio clay put post in pee stone when you need to replace suck the pee stone out with shop vac put new in and put stone back in real easy got idea from fencing company no concrete did 120 ft in 4 hours skid steer with 2 ft drill
I use to use bumper Jack's to break tires off beed when changing tires by hand I could break two tires down and put one back on in under 10 minutes yeah I went through a lot of tires when I was 16.
Joe .... like the video in Australia a lot of the pailing fences the post have checkouts for the rails and we just put the jack in the bottom checkout Tip: when your using the jack you use your opposite hand to hang on to the post (pulling it towards you) as you are lifting the post so the post will come up straight
We have hydraulic post pullers in the UK, the feet are set about 18 inches apart to allow the bowlder of concrete to be pull up straight. Looking at this I could of dug it out quicker.
No more than 15 inches in the ground and a little blob of concrete, you could have just pushed and pulled on the post to loosen it some more and pulled it out by hand
Theres a few issues with this. 1. A hi-lift jack like many things from harbor freight is an injury waiting to happen. 2. those posts were so loose they could have been pulled out by hand. 3, there wasnt enough concrete on the post to be of any use. 4, If there had been the right amount of concrete used, the jack would have been on top of the concrete and caused issues with it
I just finished installing a farm fence here at my homestead. We used 2 bags of quick drying, high strength Quikrete per pole with the posts 2 ft down. I don’t see this method working so easy.
On the farm you just use your front loader or skid steer and a chain, because you have a quarter mile of fence posts to pull out ya don't got all day for a jack.
I used both methods and if the post is not rotten then the bolt and 2x4s work. If post is rotted then I try the chain around the concrete, but if the concrete breaks up then your screwed and have to dig it out with hand tools! Just did two of these yesterday where the concrete broke and had to painfully remove them both by hand! Also about 1/2 the time for some reason I run into utility cables that run right next to the post and luckily have only broken one in the last 8 fences I've done. I think it was an old cable line for the internet.
If anyone didn't realize that this fence post was about to fall over anyways, I suggest they put the key to their toolbox back in their purse and go inside and bake some cookies.
This method works fine ,,ive used it probably over 70 times ...though i do put 2 2 by 4's together and not 2 by 2's as to get over the circumference of the concrete around the post ..yes once in awhile a post will slip out without the concrete and other problems might come up but this has been a fantastic way to get posts out ...im glad i saw the youtube videos about it..best to use method in spring when wet ...or just hose down the area first
Chain is much quicker than the drilling the post and what not. Chain method could pull 2 or 3 posts in the time he pulled 1 in my opinion. Time is money.
Used this method w/piston jack and it worked perfectly, entire concrete base came right out of the ground with the post, took 15 min and saved so much hard labor!
I have used this method many times in the past. Instead of attaching the wood I drill the holes and run a chain through the holes. Put the chain over the jack and jack it up. If the post comes out of the concrete I dig around the concrete so I can get the chain wrapped, and jack it up while leaning back with the jack.
Problem is of theres like a 5 gal of concrete as usual you're putting pressure down against the top of the concrete to push it up. It works without alot of concrete
For posts that snap at the concrete, I use a long 1/2" bit and drill into the concrete in several places. Sometimes the concrete busts but most of the time I drive a 5/8" bar in the holes. A couple of licks with a breaker bar works too. The concrete breaks away from the post, I pull the wood then the chuncks of concrete. This works great for posts with a ton of concrete.
Yeah I’d just wrap the chain a couple times.. no way that’s a quicker method and you need to carry the drill as well 🤷♂️ keep the vids coming mate ! brilliant content !
The guys that replaced my fence in 2019 did jack the old posts out so that they could reuse the holes. The issue was the buried electric and cable lines. The Utility locator marked the Cox and ATT cables right under the fence. It was more work for them but lessened the change of cutting a line while digging a new hole.
I've used a piece of 4x6 timber notched with a length of chain then run the winch on my 4x4 to the chain, the chain going through the timber will bite into the ground causing it to try to stand while winching that adds lift to the pull similar to the farm jack to a chain, also a little less hard on your back and pulls the post out of hard Oklahoma clay, still a good method and I've done the jack method before as well
I'm not surprised to hear that Harbor Freight tractor jacks are sub-par. Can you advise me on what brand of jack you recommend. I've been wanting to get one. Thanks
I will be doing this in a week. Got a link to the concrete anchor you mentioned. My posts are rotten and I do not expect them to be able to lift out like that.
I used a car jack to pry up the post using 2 2x6 attached to each other with the post in between. I screwed in 2 short 2x4 studs on each side of the post for the 2x6 to push up on. Worked great. Some of my posts had so much concrete I had to break up the concrete after pulling it out in order to carry it.
Wow I can actually just go to one RUclips channel . To figure out how to put this fence up actually I’m just closing in my neighbors fences on each side of my house so it’s a really easy compared to putting up a fence. Thanks for your channel lots of awesome help. 🙏
To pull it straight out, you can have 2 jacks, one on an opposing side to the other. I like the chain method better because you can reset more quickly and lower the grip point as you’re pulling out. You can also relocate around the perimeter as required.
Where I've had this problem the post has already rotted off at the ground and has had at least 5x the amount of solid (not crumbly) concrete... I've had to use an SDS+ drill and 450mm chisel bit.
look on U tube and see how the farmer guy does it with a tire and a cable or rope ..pulls them straight up and out works well with medium size tree roots tie one end of the cable end to your p/u truck..
That was in the ground 12 inches. I'm dealing with 36" deep at least. This method works, unless the 4x4 snaps from uneven pressure. I've got 14 more to go. What length chain do you use? I bought a 20' tow chain which is proving to be to long.
We did this a bit differently. Since we did not have all day to play with the post. We took the Bobcat and drop the bucket and pick up the tree puller jaws. Drive up, clamp, lift, next!
What brand of jack do you reccomend other than Harbor Freight? You should link your preferred products in the description section. Thanks for your commentary. I appreciate the tips about losing the post and tapping into the concrete.
I thought I was being lazy and innovative because I didn't want to dig two 6x6 posts out (like I did to 5 of them 2 years ago) so I used my low-profile hydraulic floor jack and some janky rigging (a 2x8 screwed to the post with deck screws) and started jacking, moved the rigging at least once and then I found out the posts were 6 feet in the ground without concrete.... our frost line is only 30 inches in Maryland.. who took the time to bury 2 6x6 posts 6 feet into the ground!?!?!?
How would I remove a cement and rebar post that is approx 4’ above ground? How much more is underground? Dated apraxia 1917 I need to remove to at least start a new fence line.
@@godman5043 Yeah, I was thinking that baby post was barely 1 foot deep and a child spread a thin coat of concrete on it like they were icing a cake or something...
There's almost always a short end on a fence line. I'd just cut them low and skip the old posts by going the opposite way with the 8ft sections. Sometimes you can pound them down after cutting them. Well except for the corners and ends.
The drill the guy pulls out is the giveaway that man's hands are softer than warm butter and should go inside and make the men some ice tea. Metabo starter kit drill, lol.
Dude for real, that thing had so little depth and concrete you could have it out of the ground in less than a minute using just an E-tool let alone a real shovel
I use the chain method, I have a 3/8 hammerlock with a grab hook on the jack foot to make hooking up easier. Good tip with the lag bolt through the chain.
Classic burbanite. I just use a choker chain and loader tractor but I also have miles of barb wire fence. Its a good idea I guess for a back yard. Where I'm from we call those jacks, dead man jacks. If used properly they can lift a lot of weight or they can slip and hurt you real bad.
Question for you, Previous owner put in split rail fence and about a dozen posts rotted off at ground level and now the fence flopped over. any tips or tricks on how to get out the old post or am I better off to leave it and make new holes a foot or so in either direction? Also any tips on putting in the new ones? I thin the old ones were quickcreted in and that's where they rotted off at the top of it.
Also a fence expert. Anytime you have more than a few rotted posts, just snap them off and make new holes. You’ll of course have to get the corner posts and sometimes the gate posts.
@@tabcobra thanks. Any tips on how to install the new ones so they don't rot off in 10 or 15 years? Growing up we used to put posts in for cow pasture but those were usually locust and the bottom few feet got soaked in creosote for a few weeks before they went in and those last decades.
@@RidgelineJames I do 4', but I don't often do fences, and when I do I literally can't even get a skid steer guy to dig post holes to 4' without a lot of arguing, And I can't rent anything to dig that deep without a lot of arguing from the rental guys.Two to 3 feet is all that gets dug around here.
I use this method sometimes, if the post is rotten just a bit at the base it snaps, if way to much concrete has been used which I find sometimes, maybe from a previous repair you cant place the jack in the correct position, and removing posts on a slope can be challenging, other than that it works just fine.
Are we afraid or do we just want to optimize? I mean I'm sure you drive a car right? Are you scared of the hard work of running miles to the store and carrying all the stuff back ?
That's cute. I just had to use my 65 HP New Holland tractor with a chain on my loader and it still took an hour. Granted I was pulling a 6 inch steel post 3ft deep from a 12 inch diameter hole.
What you need to do is have some scrap wood 2x4s will work but I use 2x6s. 16-24 inches in length. The more pieces the better. You want to create an H around the post so as you jack the concrete doesn't come into contact with the jack base. You will need to build your H up as you continue to jack. This is why you need multiple pieces of wood. If you dont the jack will eventually push against base of the jack. Results in the post breaking. Hope this makes sense.
Been doing fences 30 yrs. Concrete is great, but in this area, longer posts, pushed further into the ground hold better. I use the bobcat to mash them in, where permissable. A chain around the bottom, tightened up,and a long steel bar on a good wood block fulcrum , with a beveled point, under the chain, will pull about any post up.
That fence post had alot of play in it. That guy probably could've rocked the fence post around and pulled the fucking thing out by hand.
Exactly what I was thinking
Yeah. Thought the same thing when he drilled the top hole and the post was waving back and forth. Just put on some gloves and pull up...done.
He had to demonstrate it somewhere. Plus, you wanna save your energy especially if you're a DIYer and working on your own.
I hope we can see it would work on a more solid post which was the whole point.
If you want to use the same post holes you won't want the soil all torn about. This method lets you get the old ones out with minimal ground damage. Then you can open the holes as little as possible for the new posts.
Got a few street signs that way, and a few of them had more concrete than that post.
Thanks for the entertaining video! I had no intention of making that fence post video but last second decided to hand the camera to my daughter. Which I guess explains the awesome production quality. The method helped me but I agree there are way more professional ways to remove a fence post. Thanks for the laugh!
You did awesome
Yeah, a lot hatred toward a method that clearly works and even the pro gave the nod. What I don't understand is everyone pointing out that the post is wobbly. Isn't that when it is time to replace it? I certainly do not replace my 4x4 posts that are not wobbly.
@@jerryshoescuffer2133 a worn out fence is a worn out fence. if one section falls or one post breaks, the rest is pretty much ready to go bye bye too.
I've also used a long power washer wand to remove the soil around the cement of the post and lift them out easily. Works great for when the post is rotted and you are left removing the cement. Plus it cools me off in the heat. You can also use something similar attached to a water hose. Float the cement out nearly.
Crickey that post has a tickle of concrete around it , no wonder the fences are always falling down 😂😂😂
If that post had the correct amount of concrete then that method wouldn’t work. He would be putting his jack on top of the concrete.
you can bridge over that with some 4 by 4 pieces .
I *think* he meant a bridge for the base of the jack and the jack would still be proximate to the post while the pressure is bifurcated to either side of where the footing will be breaking up through the ground.
Thats exactly what i was gunna say!!
True but don't put your wood posts in concrete in the first place!
What about putting 2 jigs on and using 2 jacks on opposite sides?
Nice video. Very professional and respectful to the video producer. No bashing of any sort. I can see why your family has been in business for so long.
Lol. That post almost pushed over when he drilled it. Come on guy.
That post was not a demonstration of removal, it was a demonstration of crappy installation.
Those aren't deep at all lol. You could have rocked them and pulled them quicker
I agree. The concrete was brittle too. Just chunks off immediately when he drops it at the end.
I’m in North-Eastern Canada. Too shallow, too little cement, and practically no footing. These posts would have not lasted one winter; frost would’ve popped them out. With any proper footing, this method would be tougher to do.
Same thing I commented.. not only work in certain situations if you had a post 4 ft down in the ground man with a bag of concrete around it you ain't going to pull it out with that..
@@RhumRunner41 lol riiighhht!
Agreed. This wasnt a true challenge.
It's great to hear an honest review like this from a pro thank you
a pro hole digger
What about the Metal Posts...Chain would slip. Rope twisted on it self would probably work..What do you think?
I've pulled metal posts out with chains. We just wrap it an extra time or 2 and it works
I’ve used this method with great success in northern Illinois with a fair amount of clay and approx 75 lbs of concrete attached to each post.
Please show a video.
... in a dream
Question: My daughter bought a home with a 10 -> 15 ft picket fence running parallel to the entry to her front porch. She doesn’t like the picket look. She wants to cut off the tops of the pickets so that they are even with the upper cross member. What tool should she use? How would you do it ? Grinder with cut off wheel from the rear? Dremmel with cut off wheel? Some type of saw? Manual saw? There are maybe 20 pickets, max, with a couple of inches between each.
If she has access to one, I’d recommend a circular saw. Great question.
I don't have a fence, why am I still watching this? 😢
Build one. Feel accomplished.
I know the feeling and was it just me or was the post already loose
I'm watching because RUclips has been suggesting it for months, and I gave in.
Build one and then tear it out.
Because you secretly want a fence. 😉
Quick question, I have round posts that I am going to dig out and planning on replacing the fence using Lifetime Posts. Any advice if I should widen the hole or will that hole be wide enough already?
The weeds in my yard are harder to pull out than that post looked! My kids power wheel could have pulled those out!
I have a leaning mailbox post. I was thinking that if I use the chain and tractor jack to pull it out, I might be able to reuse the old post. Do you think I could reuse the old one, or would I need a new post?
he could save time by wrapping chain around post 3 times, hooking it in a t-post puller or on hi-lift...and get it out.
Did anyone notice how much movement was in the post when he was drilling the pilot holes!!!! Its amazing his fence ever stayed up.
Not to mentions that the edges of the post we're sticking out of the concrete. There wasn't even enough concrete around the post to completely cover the post itself lol.
Prolly why he's removing it
Yeah, but he's just making an example video. I'm sure this will work just fine with larger posts and more concrete. I would use chain as was mentioned, setting up the jig just burns time.
I don’t this it’s his fence
I could have pulled that post by hand, just alittle wiggle and lifting, barely any concrete and only about 1' in the ground.
Hey Joe I'm a self fence builder and what I use is the same o same o farm Jack but at the top of the jack put a 8in bolt through 2x4s on each side to make a tri pod and also use steel ring as a choke collar with the chain so no slippage and also works perfect when have rotted post , just use the steel ring to choke top of the cement block and it will stay firm and pull right up
That post looks like you could just pull it out by hand.
What size chain do you recommend? I’m considering using either 5/16 and 3/8 to pull my post.
Couple things. I've never had a post this loose before I began to attempt removal. I'd agree that these posts don't have a lot of concrete. I typically use a 50lb bag or post, this looks more like half a bag.
I've used the jack and 2x4 method and jack and chain method in Florida. The 2x4 method causes significant lean on my experience. The chain method provides a more straight pull and feels more safe to me.
Kudos to you as the professional in not bashing the guy in the video.
Thank you.
Only reason that worked out, is because he has good soil. Try doing that in texas clay.. You'll snap those post quick at that angle.
How yall doing down there? From your neighbors to the north.
In az the issue isn't removing the post. The problem is digging the hole to put up the first fence.
@@austinldail we have the same issue in certain parts of TX, but can definitely see that being more of an issue in AZ.
@@Gabebar85 just depends bro. I'm near the border so we have silt, loam, rock or clay. My house was clay and loam. One side took 2x the holes and concrete, the other side took 50% of recommended.
As a fellow Texan I can confirm. Buddy tried that and snapped every one. Customer was pissed
Thinking about redoing a wood fence. Is concrete at the base always necessary or can you get by with just packing gravel around the post?
We prefer concrete, but there are contractors that compact gravel around the posts.
Sorry, I hook a chain to a bobcat bucket. Someone on the ground wraps it around, and holds the loose end. This method I can pull a post a minute or faster. Might mention I use a very long chain, so the bucket is 4 feet above the ground, and the guy on the ground never bends over. Properly wrapped, no need to hook the post end. If it slips, ground guy just let’s go. Since the chain is long enough to keep him 6’ away from the work, no danger. Might add, no need to leave the hook on his end. No bobcat? Rent one. Makes boring new holes that much easier too. My helper and I removed and reset posts for over 250’ in under 4 hours. Just my two cents.
alot of times you cant use a bobcat when it comes to residential fences no one wants tracks in their back yard either that or its to tight of an area to even get one in
占い当てる , you may be right, I’ve never encountered such, myself, though. I’d leave those jobs to someone else.
@@thundervalley9766 somehow I always end up with those jobs, no Bobcats on the lawn.
@@kelkev85 lol been there too.
Not everyone can use a bobcat or have the room to get in there to use one.
I've actually used something like this method when doing a chain link fence.. worked awesome..
That’s like maybe 1/4th of a 80 pound bag of concrete 😂 taking out fence posts is definitely the most challenging part of building fences
forreal one time i ran into this one place where they used at least 5 80lb bags of concrete and i spent days using a digging bar busting all the concrete out
Leave them in
My concern is I have cyclone fence and galvanized posts. And there is a ton of concrete where the bottom of jack would be. Next to pole it would be on top of concrete. Does the force break the concrete on the side of pole it’s being used on?
Depending on what the soil is like there is a ridiculously simple way to remove a fence post. It does involve digging. You dig a shallow trench around the fence post, and fill it with water. Then you come back and refill it a number of times as it soaks in. Finally you just go out and rock the post back and forth, and pull it out.
Simple ain't always better. That sounds like a lot of time involved to be practical in a professional setting.
That sounds likes a genius idea.
Another issue I see is if the concrete base around the post is too large you can bind the jack between post and concrete. I've used my motorcycle jack that has a forked base along with rigging straps. The jack can be moved by one person but it works better with two and the straps save from having to drill each post, you can leave some of the bottom stringer to help keep the strap from slipping. This method especially saves time when you run into a fence that was installed by a DIYer who digs the post hole around 3 to 4 foot deep, yes that would be me but only once I moved to Florida (sandy soil and hurricanes) deep holes weren't a issue when digging in clay or hardpan.
A lot of concrete? 😂
He took his sweet time. I use chain and high lift jack too
I pulled a metal clothesline pole with a handyman jack and a chain with more concrete than the pile of posts he has. I did have to dig down but hey it was over 2feet deep and a hundred pounds of crete.. I can pull snow fence posts (metal U shaped with ridges) using a chain and no digging without much fuss.
Where did you serve time? Were the clothes complimentary upon escape?
Wow!!!
This is a great idea. At 61 I can still remember using car bumper Jack's to do the very same thing. Probably not many people remember those widow maker Jacks. They were notorious for jumping out from under bumper letting car fall and you were real lucky if the jack didn't fly out and hit you in the gut or pinch your hand when it started leaning towards the side. Anybody remember that? Also, Joe I'm not trying to be a jerk and I like your vidios, they're very informative, but without your logo your shirts look like inmate coveralls. Sorry
Son in Ohio clay put post in pee stone when you need to replace suck the pee stone out with shop vac put new in and put stone back in real easy got idea from fencing company no concrete did 120 ft in 4 hours skid steer with 2 ft drill
@@philipmarsland6265 And this is why you shouldn't drop out of school.
I use to use bumper Jack's to break tires off beed when changing tires by hand I could break two tires down and put one back on in under 10 minutes yeah I went through a lot of tires when I was 16.
Joe .... like the video in Australia a lot of the pailing fences the post have checkouts for the rails and we just put the jack in the bottom checkout
Tip: when your using the jack you use your opposite hand to hang on to the post (pulling it towards you) as you are lifting the post so the post will come up straight
We have hydraulic post pullers in the UK, the feet are set about 18 inches apart to allow the bowlder of concrete to be pull up straight. Looking at this I could of dug it out quicker.
No more than 15 inches in the ground and a little blob of concrete, you could have just pushed and pulled on the post to loosen it some more and pulled it out by hand
Wowsers! I've never seen this method or the chain method. I wish I had known this a long time ago! Thanks ☺️
Theres a few issues with this. 1. A hi-lift jack like many things from harbor freight is an injury waiting to happen. 2. those posts were so loose they could have been pulled out by hand. 3, there wasnt enough concrete on the post to be of any use. 4, If there had been the right amount of concrete used, the jack would have been on top of the concrete and caused issues with it
Yeah, was thinking the whole time that the chain is all you need.. Double wrap so it is a choker, and tightens onto the post as you apply force.
I just finished installing a farm fence here at my homestead. We used 2 bags of quick drying, high strength Quikrete per pole with the posts 2 ft down. I don’t see this method working so easy.
Why don't you try it before knocking it?
On the farm you just use your front loader or skid steer and a chain, because you have a quarter mile of fence posts to pull out ya don't got all day for a jack.
@@aantonides this is a fact!
I used both methods and if the post is not rotten then the bolt and 2x4s work. If post is rotted then I try the chain around the concrete, but if the concrete breaks up then your screwed and have to dig it out with hand tools! Just did two of these yesterday where the concrete broke and had to painfully remove them both by hand! Also about 1/2 the time for some reason I run into utility cables that run right next to the post and luckily have only broken one in the last 8 fences I've done. I think it was an old cable line for the internet.
If anyone didn't realize that this fence post was about to fall over anyways, I suggest they put the key to their toolbox back in their purse and go inside and bake some cookies.
This method works fine ,,ive used it probably over 70 times ...though i do put 2 2 by 4's together and not 2 by 2's as to get over the circumference of the concrete around the post ..yes once in awhile a post will slip out without the concrete and other problems might come up but this has been a fantastic way to get posts out ...im glad i saw the youtube videos about it..best to use method in spring when wet ...or just hose down the area first
Chain is much quicker than the drilling the post and what not. Chain method could pull 2 or 3 posts in the time he pulled 1 in my opinion. Time is money.
What if the ground is muddy or ground is soft? The jack will sink in the mud.lol
@@alans6110 throw down a small square sheet of plywood, 2x6 or something under the jack. Increase your surface area
I have a post that has broken off, What type of concrete anchor do you use in a normal extraction?
I love how he said “there’s a lot of concrete” and after he drops it, the concrete breaks off very easily!
Concrete must be a rare commodity in North Carolina. They seem to us it sparingly.
I've never seen so little concrete. It looked like a dollar store qtip 😅
Used this method w/piston jack and it worked perfectly, entire concrete base came right out of the ground with the post, took 15 min and saved so much hard labor!
Nice! Appreciate you sharing your experience!
Why didn’t he just lift it out with his hands he almost pushed it over drilling into it.
Exactly what I thought lol
I have used this method many times in the past. Instead of attaching the wood I drill the holes and run a chain through the holes. Put the chain over the jack and jack it up. If the post comes out of the concrete I dig around the concrete so I can get the chain wrapped, and jack it up while leaning back with the jack.
Nice video, gotta say though thats not a lot of concrete on those posts.
Problem is of theres like a 5 gal of concrete as usual you're putting pressure down against the top of the concrete to push it up. It works without alot of concrete
For posts that snap at the concrete, I use a long 1/2" bit and drill into the concrete in several places. Sometimes the concrete busts but most of the time I drive a 5/8" bar in the holes. A couple of licks with a breaker bar works too.
The concrete breaks away from the post, I pull the wood then the chuncks of concrete.
This works great for posts with a ton of concrete.
Couldn’t we all have ether pulled this post out by hand or just dug it up in 1/4 of the time it took to do all this 😂
No...its bound in the ground with about a foot deep concrete foundation. The chain methods quicker tho
Thanks for the heads up on the pins for the jack
Yeah I’d just wrap the chain a couple times.. no way that’s a quicker method and you need to carry the drill as well 🤷♂️ keep the vids coming mate ! brilliant content !
The guys that replaced my fence in 2019 did jack the old posts out so that they could reuse the holes. The issue was the buried electric and cable lines. The Utility locator marked the Cox and ATT cables right under the fence. It was more work for them but lessened the change of cutting a line while digging a new hole.
As loose as that post already was he probably could have just picked in up out of the hole
I've used a piece of 4x6 timber notched with a length of chain then run the winch on my 4x4 to the chain, the chain going through the timber will bite into the ground causing it to try to stand while winching that adds lift to the pull similar to the farm jack to a chain, also a little less hard on your back and pulls the post out of hard Oklahoma clay, still a good method and I've done the jack method before as well
That seems like a lot of extra time just to pull one post out.
step 1, dig around the concrete.
step 2, remove the post and concrete.
I'm not surprised to hear that Harbor Freight tractor jacks are sub-par. Can you advise me on what brand of jack you recommend. I've been wanting to get one. Thanks
Up north here, we call that a handyman jack.
That's what we call it in Arkansas, also.
I will be doing this in a week. Got a link to the concrete anchor you mentioned. My posts are rotten and I do not expect them to be able to lift out like that.
That post was moving super easy when he was drilling
Probably could have pried back and forth a few times and lifted it out by hand
I used a car jack to pry up the post using 2 2x6 attached to each other with the post in between. I screwed in 2 short 2x4 studs on each side of the post for the 2x6 to push up on. Worked great. Some of my posts had so much concrete I had to break up the concrete after pulling it out in order to carry it.
I have no idea why i am here..
But i watched the whole thing.
Noice
Wow I can actually just go to one RUclips channel . To figure out how to put this fence up actually I’m just closing in my neighbors fences on each side of my house so it’s a really easy compared to putting up a fence. Thanks for your channel lots of awesome help.
🙏
To pull it straight out, you can have 2 jacks, one on an opposing side to the other. I like the chain method better because you can reset more quickly and lower the grip point as you’re pulling out. You can also relocate around the perimeter as required.
Where I've had this problem the post has already rotted off at the ground and has had at least 5x the amount of solid (not crumbly) concrete... I've had to use an SDS+ drill and 450mm chisel bit.
look on U tube and see how the farmer guy does it with a tire and a cable or rope ..pulls them straight up and out works well with medium size tree roots tie one end of the cable end to your p/u truck..
If only a vehicle would go where it needs to all the time for posts.
That was in the ground 12 inches.
I'm dealing with 36" deep at least.
This method works, unless the 4x4 snaps from uneven pressure.
I've got 14 more to go.
What length chain do you use?
I bought a 20' tow chain which is proving to be to long.
We did this a bit differently. Since we did not have all day to play with the post. We took the Bobcat and drop the bucket and pick up the tree puller jaws. Drive up, clamp, lift, next!
I always use a Sky hook. It's a direct pull above the post no bending at all , post and concrete just pops up out of the ground.
2022 right !! , mines next to the dick4 and pipe stretchers
The post was about to fall over from drilling 🤣🤣🤣👍
What brand of jack do you reccomend other than Harbor Freight? You should link your preferred products in the description section. Thanks for your commentary. I appreciate the tips about losing the post and tapping into the concrete.
The true life hack, if it is wobbling like that just pull it straight up using your hands. =}
I like the repeatability and resetting ease of a chain w jack. Less hardware to add/ bend and remove w lags. But, he’s got some quick impact skills.
I thought I was being lazy and innovative because I didn't want to dig two 6x6 posts out (like I did to 5 of them 2 years ago) so I used my low-profile hydraulic floor jack and some janky rigging (a 2x8 screwed to the post with deck screws) and started jacking, moved the rigging at least once and then I found out the posts were 6 feet in the ground without concrete.... our frost line is only 30 inches in Maryland.. who took the time to bury 2 6x6 posts 6 feet into the ground!?!?!?
Jacob Sorensen , maybe somebody that moved south from northern Ontario. Endless granite, swamps and tough winters.
How would I remove a cement and rebar post that is approx 4’ above ground? How much more is underground? Dated apraxia 1917 I need to remove to at least start a new fence line.
Well it was only 20” deep and 1” of concrete around it.
They used a butter knife to spread the mud
They actually looked like they were only about 12"down
@@godman5043 Yeah, I was thinking that baby post was barely 1 foot deep
and a child spread a thin coat of concrete on it like they were icing a cake or something...
North Texas. Lots of clay. How would you pull out metal posts in concrete? I'm guessing still use chain?
That post was so loose I could pull up by hand 😂
There's almost always a short end on a fence line. I'd just cut them low and skip the old posts by going the opposite way with the 8ft sections. Sometimes you can pound them down after cutting them. Well except for the corners and ends.
This is typically our process, we still have to pull the corners and gate posts though.
@@JoeEverest I agree, just easier and cheaper for the customer.
I feel like he could have wiggled it loose with how it was set
I used a floorjack same way with some bushes from hell trunks and it worked pretty good.
Nice!
The drill the guy pulls out is the giveaway that man's hands are softer than warm butter and should go inside and make the men some ice tea. Metabo starter kit drill, lol.
hahaha
Would this work if you did it to a concrete post ?
God he made me want to go grab a shovel and dig one up in less time with just a shovel
Dude for real, that thing had so little depth and concrete you could have it out of the ground in less than a minute using just an E-tool let alone a real shovel
I use the chain method, I have a 3/8 hammerlock with a grab hook on the jack foot to make hooking up easier. Good tip with the lag bolt through the chain.
That was bearly any concrete, ive seen old fences with a foot of concrete around them
haha thats my fence posts as we get alot of heavy winds here.
That’s a classic home owner weekend dad chore warrior lol
Classic burbanite. I just use a choker chain and loader tractor but I also have miles of barb wire fence. Its a good idea I guess for a back yard. Where I'm from we call those jacks, dead man jacks. If used properly they can lift a lot of weight or they can slip and hurt you real bad.
In most cases, I cut the post at grade and move the layout of the new posts, leaving the old crete in the ground.
Question for you, Previous owner put in split rail fence and about a dozen posts rotted off at ground level and now the fence flopped over. any tips or tricks on how to get out the old post or am I better off to leave it and make new holes a foot or so in either direction? Also any tips on putting in the new ones? I thin the old ones were quickcreted in and that's where they rotted off at the top of it.
Also a fence expert. Anytime you have more than a few rotted posts, just snap them off and make new holes. You’ll of course have to get the corner posts and sometimes the gate posts.
@@tabcobra thanks. Any tips on how to install the new ones so they don't rot off in 10 or 15 years? Growing up we used to put posts in for cow pasture but those were usually locust and the bottom few feet got soaked in creosote for a few weeks before they went in and those last decades.
@@Sig220Euro Yes, use galvanized steel posts. We haven’t used wood posts in a decade.
@@tabcobra thanks but that, well that makes absolutely no sense since I said it's a wood split rail fence. don't want some ugly lookin chain link
Good video but man that’s barely in the ground. The post here below the frost at 4 feet. Have mercy on our souls.
or when the post is rotten and the post breaks off above the cement.
There are people putting fence posts 4' down in your area? Really? Like people who make money at it?
Kirstin Morrell yeah man. 4’ that’s the deal unless you want your fence to heave all over the place in the winter.
@@RidgelineJames I do 4', but I don't often do fences, and when I do I literally can't even get a skid steer guy to dig post holes to 4' without a lot of arguing, And I can't rent anything to dig that deep without a lot of arguing from the rental guys.Two to 3 feet is all that gets dug around here.
Kirstin Morrell that’s actually pretty interesting. I get a guy to dig my post holes no one even flinches when you say 4’. Where are you located?
I use this method sometimes, if the post is rotten just a bit at the base it snaps, if way to much concrete has been used which I find sometimes, maybe from a previous repair you cant place the jack in the correct position, and removing posts on a slope can be challenging, other than that it works just fine.
Even without that guy explaining everything, I’m would of had it out of the ground already !! Everyone so afraid of hard work any more!
Are we afraid or do we just want to optimize? I mean I'm sure you drive a car right? Are you scared of the hard work of running miles to the store and carrying all the stuff back ?
That's cute. I just had to use my 65 HP New Holland tractor with a chain on my loader and it still took an hour. Granted I was pulling a 6 inch steel post 3ft deep from a 12 inch diameter hole.
Let me see the technique without all the yapping
Joe Everest 😂 still a great reaction video lol
Why don't you look up the original video you yuppy
Will the tractor jack push against the concrete ball at ground level? I always dig to get them up, so a shortcut would be helpful.
What you need to do is have some scrap wood 2x4s will work but I use 2x6s. 16-24 inches in length. The more pieces the better. You want to create an H around the post so as you jack the concrete doesn't come into contact with the jack base. You will need to build your H up as you continue to jack. This is why you need multiple pieces of wood. If you dont the jack will eventually push against base of the jack. Results in the post breaking. Hope this makes sense.
The jack rests on the cross member of the H. I've also used a 3 ton car floor jack to do this procedure as well with a chain. Beats digging everytime.
Been doing fences 30 yrs. Concrete is great, but in this area, longer posts, pushed further into the ground hold better. I use the bobcat to mash them in, where permissable. A chain around the bottom, tightened up,and a long steel bar on a good wood block fulcrum , with a beveled point, under the chain, will pull about any post up.