How to Wire an Electric Choke
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- A properly working electric choke is one of the nice things about a street car. Wiring them up sometimes is a little confusting. I'll show you how I wired mine up plus show you how it works so you'll have that knowledge when youre adjusting or trouble shooting.
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Just be sure that if you use “Key-on” for choke power, then make sure the radio, added power windows anything you want on, move that power to accessory’s. When getting into an ice cold vehicle and you turn the key but here a song you want to listen to, remember the choke will be opening to full open. This will make it hard to start and keep running. So using a relay with a 10 fuse to coil hot by key on, then supply the choke with 87 to choke positive. Terminal 30 will will with GM chokes at 10 amps, but new testable type heaters may draw more amperage. A good digital multimeter (DMM) has an amp scale that handles 15 amps like a Fluke 87-5. Check with your owners manual or use a direct readout amp clamp with a good Vdc scale. Take a reading with engine off and on as charging voltage increases and amps change. Alway use a grommets for passing wires thru metal.
DK, ASE master tech since 78
Excellent insight. Thanks for taking the time to share! I’m going to pin your comment.
Wire a relay straight from the battery with a waterproof fuse. Use an oil pressure choke switch to trip the relay. Then the choke only gets power with oil pressure.
@@matthewklein9225 That is good thinking and "Best Practice" as those adding fuel injection should use this circuit as well.
Few, I believe want to in a ditch with a broken fuel line spraying over everything that is hot.
I was with a friend at 3AM when the volunteer fire dept had to respond. He was a crew chief and his keys allowed us to us a new fire engine the town bought and trained on. Fog allowed a semi with a load of potatoes to head-on a Ford pickup with camper. Water shoves fuel every direction you spray it, so coordinating was required. Cold, wet and working a hose revealed gears, diff and crank hanging out of a broken block. Only 3 hours later had found a 19 year old in the ditch and highway patrol came, set up barriers and shut down a major highway. I think I feel asleep at 6PM that day.
So folks, use the oil pressure switch for dual terminal action.
DK, ASE master since 78
@@matthewklein9225 Yes, best plan. I always wire the positive feed by way of a relay, best way to ensure sufficient power supply on these old vehicles. If you're running an old Ford, you can also use the STA (stator) connection on the alternator energize the relay.
I have a sending unit with power terminals. works great.@@matthewklein9225
dear Mr. thank you so much, this video helped me a lot. I am just a simply carpenter from europe , amy car fan and owner . I dont have money and nerve to go in official garage in swiss thats why I try to learn from those people like you, please keep teaching who want to learn. thank you so much again Alex.
Awesome! I’m glad these videos are useful to you. Carburetor tuning is actually quite easy. Just need to follow a process and it can be done. Good luck!
Some of the GM cars and trucks used a 2 terminal oil pressure switch and when there was no oil pressure(engine not running) the choke would not receive any power, once the switch seen oil pressure then it would send power to the choke. It worked well and made the system a bit more "fool-proof".
My sons truck would not be running without your help. From carb rebuild to choke install, thank you.👍
That’s awesome! Lots of credit to the you all for putting your hands on it and doing the work! Good job! Glad the videos were helpful.
Yeah man you're exactly right lol I had a little short wire running right back to the choke screw like I've seen it done in the past. I required it and ran it to a solid ground and it's a different animal. Thank you for your advice.
Having dealt with the divorced choke on the old TQs, the 1406 carb with the electric choke was a game changer. So nice. Great video Sir!
I’m guessing the exhaust bypass under the intake was much less of a problem with leaded fuel. With ethanol based awful fuel we have today; not so much. Thanks man!
I did the same thing with a 1407 on a mopar big block. Night and day!
In wiring up electric choke to 12 volts when key is turned on works just fine except if you don’t start engine immediately the coke stat is already heating up and starting to open up butterfly,, which in cold weather you need all the choke tension possible. To avoid this situation always run plus wire on choke stat to stator wire on alternator which is only 12 volts when alternator is turning, prevents turning key on and possibly not starting engine at that same moment which would result in no choke at all when if key left on for any length of time . I hope all this makes sense! I am from the old school of hard knocks.
Yea that makes sense,, that is my plan also. What he did not say,, once the choke is fully open, it stays open and hot. I just bench tested mine its about 120 degrees, so it will stay 120 until key is turned off. it also took about 8 minutes to open all the way on bench,, of course i am not sure how far it opens in side choke housing.
Which is the stater wire how would I recognise it
I've got an old Chevy truck like this and that's how I did mine. That's how Ford does theirs from the factory. Pretty slick I think
Good info as always! I just love my electric choke on my 4160 750 Holley. Used my volt meter to test fuse box and wire output to choke. I wired mine direct to my fuse box accessories fuse with adapter, along with an inline 10 amp fuse. Works flawlessly so far. Cheers from Motown!
Always the best choice with the fuse option. Thanks Robert!
Great video, I like that you took the choke apart to show what is inside. It gives you a much better understanding of how things work and will help if you have to troubleshoot in the future.
I try to focus on that for every video. Doesn’t do any good to know how if you don’t know why! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you. I just bought my first classic and I've been working on it and the electric choke didn't quite seem to work at all. Start and die. Had to try to rev it up a little. Thanks for the video. The carb I have right now is an edelbrock 4brl on a 318. The carb has seen better days. It's pretty rough. Thought about replacing it but I know nothing about trying to tune such a thing 😅
Thanks for this video! I purchased this same carb for the electric choke feature and will wire it up asap! 🦊
haha i’m glad i saw this. i ran my ground to the carb and after you mentioned to ground it to a good spot, i thought about my aluminum intake and it hit me that won’t work. hopefully i’ll find time outside of work to get mine wired up
Thanks man! Had my 305 in my 78 Monte swapped with a 350 crate a few years back and took till now for me to realize they never hooked my electric choke up among other things they did wrong 🤦🏻♂️
Well that ought to be a whole new driving experience once you get it fixed!
OMG! Too easy. I just changed up from the stock Holley to the Edlebrock Performer.. but I couldn't figure out what wire went to the electric choke.. It was driving me crazy. I even bought a Haines manual to look for it on the wiring diagram.. It wasn't there. Thank you for the clear explanation on how it works and how to wire it.
Nice! I’m glad this was helpful!
you didn't mention how long it takes for this choke to fully open, did you do this test.
thanks mike
I wire electric chokes through oil pressure switch/light. Choke doesn't get power until engine has 4 psi, and it also operates an idiot light, Standard P/N 64.
Requires a tee of block if running a gauge also, but it works great. Never have to worry if key is in accessory or run if engine is off and choke won't activate
That's the way GM chokes were wired from the factory for years. Great way to do it.
Where is this located please
Absolutely great for once and someone that takes the time and the video to explain exactly what someone needs to do thank you very much
Very glad it was useful for you!
Great info! I had gone and grounded it to the carb like the manual said, on an aluminum manifold.
i have a 68 chevy can't believe how cheap they are for parts and u can get everything for it i rebuilt the dash for 250 bucks with full factory gauges . plus i kept the old school choke on the 454 i put in it, even put a new cig lighter in it all new nobs looks better then new
Perfect timing living in Washington state keep the videos coming
Every year I lived there, the cold rainy weather started in September! 😂 Hope all is well up there and the heavy rains have gone.
@@MuscleCarSolutions actually it's been recorded breaking rain fall lately you're videos are awesome 👍
thank you ( alt & carb F-uped both ) fixing now ! thanks again
Thank You. Finally someone who knows what they are talking about.
Best Wishes, Jahmahrah
Thanks!
Thanks for the good brake down. 👍
Much appreciated. Thank you!
Great vid. I hate that the connectors always face forward. Makes it hard to do a clean wire install with them facing forward.
Looking at the spring when he disassembled it , could probably clock the spring at 90° increments to get your desired direction.
Mount the Carb backwards?
@@iansteward4708 can't do that, the ram air won't work
Any videos on how to pull power from the fuse box in a 60’s Chevy?
Great video! Im troubleshooting my Mustang 351C with an Edelbrock 650. The problem is that I get bangs from the exhaust as soon as I start hitting the gas while driving the car. Your video made me realize that the former owner has ruined the function of the electric choke by a ignition override = the choke is always on as the hotwire is connected to the battery… Whats your guess, can a broken choke be causing this kind of problem or do you have a another guess?
There’s a lot going on here. First I’d get your ignition sorted out. Verify you’re getting the proper amount of power to the distributor and coil. Then check the timing. For the sounds of it, your problems are ignition based.
@@MuscleCarSolutions alright, thank you for the advice! I will seek help at a local mechanic with a good reputation when it comes to setting the timing right.
Take care!
@@ollwal97 be careful with that. Most “mechanics” will set timing based on what the factory spec was. Todays world with horrible fuel quality and ethanol additives require much more initial and advanced ignition timing. Make sure you know what they are going to set the specs at before they begin work. No knock on them; they’re only doing what they know. If they’re not starting at 10* btdc and adjusting up from there, then find a mechanic that’s a little more in tune with working outside of a Chiltons manual.
Milwaukee bits on a Dewalt drill?? You wound me, sir. (great video, by the way. 😁)
'85 Ford F-250 -- 460 and 4-speed. I have dual batteries so needed a diode isolator from the alternator. So I connected the electric choke wire to the alternator output so that the electric choke only gets power when the alternator is spinning. It is a bigger alternator so did not have the normal Ford output wired inside of the alternator for the electric choke. I do not like using the switched 12 volt circuit because just as soon as the key switch is turned on then the choke starts to open; wait long enough without the engine running and warming up and the engine has no choke to assist in starting. Been there, done that.
It’s really a slow process. Back waaaaaaay in the old school days when points distributors were the thing, going key on and not starting meant way worse problems than the choke opening up a little. I mean I guess if you’re turning the key and not attempting to start is a thing then yeah I can see finding another source. Dare I ask why?
Other than costs and if you’re not building an all original car it just seems that a good fuel injection system to deliver the fuel for performance and reliability is the way to go. I’m open to any debate on that. Thanks in advance.
Hi nice job can you walk me through wiring the power for electric choke got ground but also need to now how to adjust thanks if you can help me
How do you test the choke itself Make sure that it's working when it's wired up?
Great video about electric chokes. That engine compartment's a mess, though.
Yup it is. Going to stay that way until the engine comes out in a few months. Have some time before the summer heats up and I need to figure out how to repair or replace the factory A/C.
Great video! I use both, but prefer manual choke!
I've got an SBC 305 that was swapped over to my project. For the price I went ahead and bought a 600CFM Edlebrock #1406, Ran fine for a time, then I wasn't getting power under load, White smoke coming out of the exhaust smelled like gas. I Replaced the Oil and Spark plugs, A Dyno shop helped me tune the Carb up and everything seemed great. Week later Same problem is happening again. I suspect the Choke is stuck open, doesn't seem to be moving around like the demonstration you give here toward the end of the video when you rev it up. . I am when it's a bit cooler out, going to recheck all plugs again, but no power under load probably means that I've got fuel in the oil again, and finding the culprit is difficult.
My dad had his mustang build for 6 years. Drove it with ANY THING GOING WRONG for 10 years. In the same month I bought it from him every thing went wrong. Door hinges got saggy. Choke stopped working. Power windows, locks, steering started to go out. He always laughs at me when trying to fix and he reminds me it took him 6 years to get it to how he had it for 10.
Very informative Thanks from Alabama
Glad it was useful for you! Thanks!
Great stuff sir!!!
Thanks boss! Appreciate that!
Another great informative video thanks !!!
Thanks man! Hope all is well with you this holiday season!
@@MuscleCarSolutions doing well hope you and your family are well !!
I’m asking because as stated on the video there is under hood solutions ?
Thank you for this detailed explanation of the carburetor Choke, which I followed in my old Nissan Jeep. After installing it, I did not feel any problem in operating the engine except that there is some smoke coming out with the exhaust before the engine warms up. Is this something normal? Greetings to you from Riyadh.
I was in Riyadh in November 2019 for the seasons event. I did a video on it. Very fun event! Yea it could be normal for a little bluish smoke if it’s in a very rich condition.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank u .u are welcome to Riyadh.
Great video with info.
Awesome. Thank you!
So i teed of the positive for the electric choke to power an electric fuel pump... good idea or not?
Great Info thanks
Cool. Thanks man.
Could you connect the + to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid? It used to be used for early Chevys to power the coil when the key was "on". Would probably add a fuse or diode to prevent power surge blowout.
I run an AVS2 650 on a stock Goodwrench 350. On Cold start's I'll push the gas pedal to the floor once to set the fast idle. It starts up and runs. But runs extremely rich during this initial warm up. BLACK smoke. And rough (almost as if it's got a "miss"....it doesn't). The colder the air temperature the worse this initial warm up is in terms of how rough it idles. I'll let it do this for a minute or 2. And then I blip the throttle which lowers the RPM. And she'll then idle smoothly. And the black smoke calms way down. Once the engine is up to normal operating temp there is no black smoke and she runs like a dream. When it's cold outside (under 50 degrees and in particular in the 40's or 30's) the cold start up's are worse. I sometimes have to keep my foot LIGHTLY on the gas as it warms up during that rough & rich warm up period. I THINK my choke is not set correctly. I'll comb through your other videos to see if you go further into detail with tuning the choke
Yup. You can lean the choke out and add more air if needed. Set the fast idle speed and see how it likes it. I did a video on electric choke set up that should explain what you’re looking at. Just holler if you have any questions.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I searched your channel for "electric choke setup" but didn't find a video like that. Are you referring to your "Top 6 Edelbrock Carburetor Measurements & Adjustments" video?
Excellent information, a great block of instruction I am getting ready to drop my 283 into my 66 Chevelle, and I will be installing the same carb, you have here in the video with the electric choke as shown I have to re-align myself and my brain on these installs, been awhile, but now I am truly positioned back and in line with what I have to do, thank you for this video, I was going to put a Quadrajaet carb but after what I have learned about them I will not, I want to simplify my life and the Edelbrock like the one you have here is the best choice, again thanks for this video, and also if you could recommend which Edelbrock, I have been thinking of the 1406 Performer Series, is this a good choice for a pretty much stock 283 with a performer cam, ???
I did a video on what size carb to install if you want to view it to understand why. In your case, a 500 CFM will be just fine. Go with the AVS2 though.
Great Video! If I want to abandon my electric choke, can I just take out the fuse next to the fuse panel or pull the wire out?
Unless you control the Choke Plate movement another way (with a Choke Cable for manual control or whatever), if you disconnect electricity to your electric choke control in any way, the Bimetallic Strip therein will not heat up to open up the Choke Plate (the movable valve) at the top of your carburetor and, even though your engine may start up okay, after the engine heats up, the engine will still continue to receive a rich fuel mixture from the carb (due to the choke plate remaining closed) and your engine will either stop running or run very erratically. A constant Rich Fuel Mixture to your engine results in:
1. Increased fuel consumption and emissions. With an abundance of fuel present, the engine may struggle to burn it efficiently, leading to wasted fuel and higher levels of pollutants in the exhaust.
2. Increased emissions: The pollutants in the exhaust can cause the automobile to fail an emissions test.
3. Engine performance problems: The engine may surge, sputter, stall, or idle roughly.
4. Engine damage: The excess fuel can wash away lubricating oil from the cylinder walls, which can lead to increased friction and wear. It can also contaminate the engine oil and damage the catalytic converter and exhaust system.
5. Faulty sensor indications: Engine Sensors may operate erratically.
6. Strange odors: You might smell gas or burning sulfur.
7. Black smoke: The tailpipe may emit black smoke, which indicates incomplete combustion.
Question. I have a 1983 Chevy C10 350ci engine . I do have the positive wire and negative correct like you have mentioned and it works correctly. My question is, if those are the only 2 wires needed why do some vehicles (like mine) ALSO have the choke connected to a 2 prong sensor/switch that is located on the drivers side of the engine block? What's it's purpose? Sometimes the plug falls of the sensor/switch and my choke light will come off. If it's not really necessary for operation I may bypass it, because the plug falls off like I mentioned when I hit bumps and the choke light comes on.
The Chevy wiring in that era was a little different if I recall correctly. They share a wire with the oil pressure sensor. Fairly sure that’s correct. There is a spot on the fuse box for the choke. 20A that’s on that circuit. As long as the choke has power and operates correctly and that sensor continues to get power and the bundle goes back to the dash for your idiot lights to function, then it’s all good.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks
Wire it to the brake lights or the horn! Or even better all three together. Safety first you know. Good stuff man, I like it!
😂😂😂 Thank you!
Isn't the horn and brake lights always hot. I would prefer a keyed ignition source. Or am I missing something here?
@@robertclymer6948 Sorry, I was making a joke about that. If you used my suggestion you’d have to blow the horn or step on the brakes for the choke to work. If you wired them all together the horn would blow when you stepped on the brakes.
Wow.
🤣😂
What is gain from running coolant hose from the intake to radiator by the cap. First time I’ve seen that
So, the internal coil on the choke has power all the time that the igntion is on? Would that cause it to overheat?
Yes, if it didn’t have the port that keeps it cool. But that cooling port is an integral part of the choke. I did a short on this a few weeks ago if you’d like to watch it for a visual explanation.
I just bought an Elderbrock carb for my jeep wagoneer and for now I had to use a toggle switch for my ignition because the one on the steering column was sticking causing the starter to stay engaged...the switch has a little red led light on it, so would there be a problem if I ran a hot wire from my battery with an inline fuse with another switch that I could turn off after the engine warmed up ?
Dumb question. I never use my a/c since it don't work well. If I want to hook to a/c, must I turn on a/c from my dash ??
Thank you for all the videos been learning a lot form them!
When diagnosing an issue im having with my 74 Camaro 350 i noticed that the electric choke is wired power to the coil's and the ground is to the carb itself, which seems interesting to me... this was done by a local speed shop where I am located, and I trusted their work... but based upon your information this does not seem great. What are your thoughts? I have fuel lines disconnected right now to attempt to redo everything from the fuel pump onward, so haven't been able to check the chokes operation yet.
Thanks!
The coil is run on a resistance wire and won’t provide enough power to the choke. See it all the time. It’s the lazy place to hook it up bad it will eventually give you problems if it’s not already.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you so much! That might be the issue I’m having! I’ll probably look about rewiring that. Wish I had this knowledge before hand.
I sent you a message on Instagram about some other issues I’m having asking your opinion, it’s also in the comments on another video. Mind taking a look at that for me?
@@MuscleCarSolutions hi there, excellent video. You're right if the coil + wire is a resistance wire, then do not wire Up there. However, if you're using electronic distributor with MSD coil, it's full 12V on the coil + so I believe should be OK. Your opinion please. Thanks mate
Hi thanks for video. I have a Ford falcon with auto choke pretty much the same as the one in the video but the wire going to it has no power when is key is on. I am going to have to rewire or try and find why I don't have any power. If I rewire as per video I don't understand how the choke turns off once the motor is warm, as the key is on ( motor running) and it will have constant power when the key is on and the choke would be on all the time or am missing something. Thanks for any help
if I have two four set up what's the best way to set the choke? I love ur vids
Set it like you set it on a single four set up. Only one carb will have a choke (primary carb). You’ll need to play a little with the fast idle speed screw to get it to the rpm you want when it’s choked. But you’d do the exact same on a single four also. Easy!
Hello how to set the fast idle screw to the electric choke setting ?
Nice video, I recently replaced my 1987 Toyota Corolla carburetor and i been having hard starting and some electrical problems can it be the choke wiring causing this issue.
The choke you can visually check when it’s cold and then go key on. If it’s closed, it’s likely working. You’ll need to verify that once it’s starters and up to operating temperature. If not, could be wiring, could be choke set up. I’m not familiar with the factory Toyota carburetors.
Very informative, thank you. Can you tell me what throttle/kick down cable bracket you are using? I'm having issues with my throttle cable interfering with carb linkage.
The electric choke I got came with a small black box (about 1 inch square) with a copper mount lug i assume is for grounding you would mount on the firewall. My question is, what is that for? I see other electric choke do not have that box
What if I go straight to the battery but put a switch on it? And turn it off every time I shut off the boat?
New to the carb, so question that is showing 11 something bolts key on, but my question is when you connected to that one,does it go past that voltage when the car is turned on assuming it gets more voltage because the alternator is running when car is on? Or do I have to find a wire that stays at 12v even when car is on?
Volts not bolts sorry
@@hectorjimenez7115 12v constant. Not to the alternator. Not to the coil or ignition system. Key on, constant 12v or the system will not function properly.
Any idea on why the positive terminal on the choke has ground? when using a test light clipped to the positive side of the battery the bulb lights up when it contacts the positive side of choke. (Choke is not connected on positive side) only grounded to carb. Thanks
I'd have preferred a more detailed explanation how to wire the live power if you don't have that lucky wire near the carb. Which fuse box terminal ? What fuse rating is best ? What about wiring from starter solenoid and which terminal ? Unfortunately I'm still confused....
Thanks for the Video looks like the choke continues to draw power continuously even after choke is open and while the key on and if so what kind of draw does it have?
Yes that is correct. Key on will draw power till key off. .05V
Good info. I ended up ripping mine off for a manual choke though!
A well set electric choke on the street is hard to beat. Nothing wrong with a manual choke though. That’s more of a preference thing I guess. Cheers!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes I agree. Convenience of an electric choke is good for the street.
What do you with old manual choke spot?
What if my end only had one end ?? It’s a Rochester dual jet off a 1985 Buick regal ?
hey there, i hooked up the positive and ground wrong and it melt the wire, i ordered a new kit but want to know if the carburetor itself is damaged?
Probably not. Just do a good visual inspection of the choke body and make sure the piston still operates and it will be fine.
Hello how’s life I hav a Quadrajet that I’m trying to swap out but I’m asking what do I do with the wire off the Quadrajet
How does that Edelbrock perform when the secondaries
Could I use the ACC post on my ignition switch for the 12v to the choke? Thanks!
Super great info. Thanks
Thanks man. Happy holidays to you!
I have a Barry grant speed demon Jr 725 with electric choke I’m afraid I broke the choke is that possible and how should it operate do I just put power to it and start my truck and watch the plate open or close as it warms up ?
Thank you for the video.
Can I wire the choke to the throttle solenoid wire ?
The solenoid has been deleted.
This is for an AVS2 650 Edelbrock on a 351 Cleveland Torin Squire Wagon.
Thank you
Not familiar with that application, but as long as it’s key on, that doesn’t have a resistor in it and is 12V you’re good to go.
Silly question. 12 G or 10 G stranded wire? If I go directly to the fuse box, how does that wire essentially get terminated? My 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille has a glass rod fuse box (also noted that clips are slightly rusted on clip ends) with one giant wiring plug
12 is just fine. There’s a low amount of power going though.
Great info. I was about to hook up the wire to the coil until I heard you say not a good option.
But still curious as the + coil has constant ignition 12v. I would have thought its the best place as its the closest to the choke.
There’s resistance in the coil wire. Not enough voltage to operate the electric choke.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for your reply. Resistance wire no longer exist. it's a new AAW harness with no resistance wire, and am using MSD distributor with MSD coil with full 12V from Ign Switch to Coil + terminal.
Another Q, whether connected to full 12V coil + or another 12V ign source, is the choke still getting constant 12V even after the engine is warmed up and the flaps are fully open? Could that be a big electrical hazard or risk of a fire being so close to fuel moisture and fumes? I live in a hot tropical climate where we don't use choke at all. I'm more concerned about the fire risk. Thanks
I guess the last part begs the question. If you live in a tropical environment, why are you using an electric choke? Doesn’t sound like you have any need for it. You don’t have to run one. It’s there to help the engine warm up on colder start ups.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yeah, you could be right, we don't need choke in such hot climates. However, most classic car owners over here still use the choke on cold startups in order for the carbs to warm up quicker for better idling as most old carbs don't idle well on cold startups. try to start a 63 jaguar e-type and you'll know what I mean.
Having the manual/electric choke is like today's modern efi cars where it idles higher for few seconds on first startups and gradually reduces irrespective of hot/cold climate. Same concept. Most younger generation classic car owners/customers want it this way today.
Just sharing how people look at things differently in other parts of the world.
Yup. Was just replying to the limited info I had. I live in a hot climate in the summer months and it’s mostly warm here 9 months of the year, but I still run an electric choke on most of my street driven projects. When you said tropic I just assumed mild temps year round. Given that same situation I’m not sure I wouldn’t try it with no choke or probably switch to manual if it wasn’t going to be leaned on to get the engine started. All good!
Curious about your fuel pressure regulator set-up. A lot of extra hardware I don't usually see. Most vintage cars never had them originally, or ever had one installed. So, why use one?
Great question! I just uploaded a short to answer your question.
@@MuscleCarSolutions How does reducing fuel pressure via a regulator have any effect on the float/needle/seat doing their job? No yada, yada, yada, please.
@@northerniltree Keep watching my videos. It’s been covered in quite a few.
@@MuscleCarSolutions My '67 Corvette uses a stock (lever) type mechanical fuel pump. Holley tells me no additional regulator is required, as the 6.5 psi pressure this type of pump provides is just fine.
@@northerniltree I used to run mechanical pumps but they break down faster than electric inline, especially if your vehicle doesn't run in winter every year. They all pulsate and if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to check it's pressure output at high RPM, you won't know it's peak pressure. At 7psi, you can start to see fuel pushing past the float seats, causing all sorts of excess fuel issues, the worst being fuel pushing past the bowl vents. Huge waste of fuel, the engine runs rougher, enough fuel in the carb can interrupt venturi atomization, if excess fuel splashes into the emulsion air vents, your engine will stumble and hesitate, the exhaust will have excessive unburned fuel, you will get plug fouling, fuel washing down the cylinders and contaminating the oil, enough fuel in the oil and your oil pressure will drop and you'll get bearing damage and premature camshaft wear, fouled spark plugs will cause excessive energy in your ignition system which can destroy your coil, or the dist. cap as well as the ignition module.... All that CAN happen in 10,000 miles if you don't get a $40 gauge and a $100 bypass fuel regulator, all this comes from cheap pumps pushing too high fuel pressure
Where does that brake booster vacuum hose go?
Ok, so to be clear, the “key on” position in my mind is when the vehicle is running. Not the start position, but run position, driving down the rd. Is that the correct key on position? This is my first venture into carbureted vehicles. Thank u
Instead of a like can I please get clarification?
Was typing one out to you. Are you ok????
Excellent video 👍
Thanks!
Hey buddy .. I've got a question that I can't find anything about ,, im working on a 86 GMC 1500 w/ the original carburetor,, a Rochester I believe .. the truck has Spark control && there's plugs on the carburetor -- there's a 2 wire plug on top of the carb just above the fuel filter -- do you know if that one of those wires is the one thats supposed to run to my choke .? There is a key on power wire but im not 100% sure where its supposed to go
I’m not 100% sure you can use that mixture solenoid on top of the carb as a source. If it had an electric choke on it from the factory, there will be a wire already ran. If not, just run your own. Hard to say without eyes/hands on.
I have a 1981 ford e-350 460 engine and have a Holley carb I have enough wire to go to the fuse box but I don’t know which fuse I should hook it with
Find a key switch activated 12v source.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I can’t really do that since I don’t have a voltmeter or a multimeter
@@RobertRamp multimeters are cheap and a must have for the tool box. It’ll prove it’s worth on this first job you’ll use it!
My instructions say to put ground back to carburetor. Unscrew screw and ground to choke. Is that wrong?
No that’s fine. As long as it operates correctly and the choke is getting the voltage it needs, it’s good.
i have replacement carb for a older ford one ton and it has only one terminal for electric choke is this normal
The single spade ones are always hot right? Not as in constant power but key on power?
The electric choke (when wired correctly) will see power when the key is in the in position. If the key is on, the choke will see power.
Can I run the power wire to the rocker switch to turn to my electric fuel pump on my 63 Nova?
That would depend on what the switch would handle. If it supplies the volts and amps needed.
Easy solution to the problem is to utilize an oil pressure switch with at least two terminals. Opens when the motor is off, pressure is low, closes when key is on, pressure is above 10 psi.
Can you get power off a washer fluid lead?
I have one not in use. Would like to avoid going into the firewall.
This is for a GBody SBC 350
If it’s key on, constant 12v
I installed a new avs2 and while wiring and adjusting the choke I noticed a vacuum when I put my finger around the choke to turn it. It's a small port on the choke housing it doesn't have threads so I know a screw is not missing. My question is that normal because to me I feel like that's a vacuum leak. It's a port on the bottom choke housing or is that a vent and why is there vacuum
Yes it’s there on purpose. It’s to keep the choke housing cool.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks just wasn't sure
@@jsanchez4652 yup. It’s a common question. All good!
You would only want electricity going to the Electric Choke Control when the engine is actually started up and running, because that is the only time that the engine starts heating up. Wherein, then, under ideal conditions the Bimetallic Strip within the Electric Choke Control starts heating up and moving to gradually open up the Choke Plate while, and in parallel with, the engine heating up, so that both operate in sync.
If you attach the Electric Choke Control to the ACC (Accessory) Terminal, or make the Electric Choke Control operate whenever the Key Switch is in any "On" position, that does NOT guarantee that the Engine and the Electric Choke Control's Bimetallic Strip will heat up in unison because the Key Switch can be in any "On" position without the engine running (when listening to the radio, etc., or when left on after the engine fails to start and you get out to check things, Etc.).
Therefore, the Electric Choke Control should only be supplied with electricity when the engine is actually running under combustion and, therefore, heating up! Attaching the Electric Choke Control's power terminal to a switch or relay operated from the engines vacuum (maybe the best route) or to a source that only supplies power when the engine is running (that is, when something senses something from, or is being rotated by, engine operation) would be a very good idea being that a vacuum exists, engine operation sensors send signals and things rotated by the engine only rotate, only when the engine is running.
@@DB-xk1ir yes. This is how an electric choke works.
How would I wire up a choke with just one tab to hook a wire to thanks.
What kind of carb? I’ve seen some OE stuff that had a single wire but in those cases I’ll always default to how the factory wiring was run.
My question is what fuse do I connect the power wire to on the fuse box?
A key on source.
why not directly from the coil , mine been wired for years from the coil would like to know thanks
Simple. It’s not 12V
@@MuscleCarSolutions even with the MSD coil and ready to run distributor? thats what i have on my big block mopar as far as i know the msd requires a continuous 12v
@MOPARMuscleLEBANON and MSD doesn’t recommend anything be tied into it.
My electric choke only has one tab for power and none for ground, I am installing on a fiat 124 spider, any advice?
Don’t know. What brand is it?
Having an issue with the choke actually shutting off when the engine is warmed up. Snap the throttle as usual, but the choke won't shut off, any suggestions as to what to look at?
What do you mean? It won’t close the choke valve or it won’t open? If it’s not opening all the way, check the power to the choke. Make sure the fast idle cam on the other side of the carb is operating as it should.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yesterday I started it up cold (I live in WA too), and once warm, the choke didn't want to open/come off the fast idle setting. I just re-did the ground connection today as it was grounded to the carb, we'll see if that helps...
@@mattbrown2793 easy to throw a voltmeter on and see what you’re getting at the choke.
I am having problems with my electric choke. For some reason my throttle cable got so hot, it metal the cable and broke. I disconnected the positive wire, and the throttle cable does not get hot. Not sure what to do...
Have the positive and negative switched up? You’re running the power through the body.
Question. I found a hot with ignition on wire that’s 12v until I plug it into the choke. With it plugged in, the voltage drops to 4v. What could cause this. I’m using the negative battery post as my ground for the test to rule out a bad ground. Holley 1460. Thanks for any help!
Make sure there isn’t a resistor in the power wire.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I believe it’s the stock choke wire that went to the Quadrajet. 84 c10. That wire shouldn’t have a resistor I wouldn’t think.
@@jasonconaway69 dont know. But 90% of the time or better, its because theres a resistor in the power wire. Maybe you'll find the issue elsewhere. Let me know what it was when you find it!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for the reply. A lot of people put up videos and don’t take any time to answer questions. Thanks!
@@jasonconaway69 I try like heck to! If I get a notification, I’ll always react to it one way or another. Break out your multimeter! You’ll eventually find the issue.
why is the coil not okay? as long as voltage is not bleed down thanks for response
Easy. The coil wire is not fused and you want a fused circuit in case of a short that will melt down the choke. Coil wire is typically a resistance wire and you won’t get 12v to the choke. Sounds like a good idea to use the coil but please don’t. 😆
@@MuscleCarSolutions follow up questioned what if coil is not a resistance wire and a full keyed 12v? Just asking I want to do it right thanks
Sounds like a good idea to use the coil but please don’t.
I have a edelbrock 1406. I noticed the pos wire was disconnected so I reconnected it. Car died on me twice on a test drive, Both times I was coming to a stop braking. Maybe someone had this electric choke disabled on purpose? After warmed it seemed to be fine.
Sounds like it’s wired into a circuit that it shouldn’t.