You're right about ignition timing and carburetor tune working together. After dealing with vapor lock/overheating issues on a chevy truck and replacing everything to try to get it to run cooler (new radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, new fan clutch) it still would get up to about 215 degrees on the temperature gauge and shut down from vapor lock/no fuel. Then I even tried insulating the fuel line, adding a return/vapor line from a filter right up close to the carb, blocked off heat riser to intake... I even "recalibrated" the new fan clutch to pull more air... still got too hot and died. Then I did a little research and decided to double check my vacuum advance. All I did was switch the vacuum advance from a ported vacuum source to a manifold vacuum source and adjusted the vacuum diaphragm for maximum advance. That is what finally fixed it, now the temperature gauge stays around 170-180 degrees even in traffic. My gas mileage also greatly improved. Oil no longer smells as gassy. My point is that just a little change to your vacuum advance timing can not only allow engine to run cooler, but also burn much cleaner with less fuel. I also remember noticing on another vehicle that going down interstate at 65 MPH with vacuum advance disconnected I had to keep my foot into the throttle like almost halfway, almost opening the secondaries. Once I reconnected the vacuum advance, I could cruise at 65MPH with the throttle barely cracked open.
I do recommend going the little extra hassle to install an inwire fuse holder (and fuse) into the electric choke system. It's not so much about protecting the choke, it's making sure your wiring doesn't go up in smoke should the choke positive wire come off and touch the engine etc. it has saved me once and not having to redo all your wiring trying to find where the insulation is melted is extremely nice.
Shrink tube the end with slight overhang and it will never short on anything. (Use an extra 1/4" and after heating , trim until an 1/8" or so is left. It will not affect your connection.)
Id like to see a video on driving, w an AFR meter and Vacuum gauge, to see mixture changes at foot settings. Also- how timed vac port works with vac advance.
Just wanted to say that he said the reverse of what he meant. The primary rod springs should be weaker(half the vacuum,especially on an automatic, not quite on a manual)not stronger, just like the power valve on a holley to keep them closed or open in proportion to power/vacuum. In simple terms, a/c on in drive requires higher f/a ratio than no Load
Great video thank you ! I didn’t realize the big O carb gasket was so important, maybe that’s why it dies sometimes when I goose the throttle. Next step is to add a fuel rail and pressure regulator 👍
I’ve used a lot of his tips I just purchased a 1411 750 for my 496 Chevrolet bb I had a flat spot right off the crack of the throttle I went one step richer on the metering rod’s still had a flat spot couldn’t get a excelerator pump nozzle kit I drilled the nozzles out by hand flat spot went away 👍🏻 doubled my gas mileage changing it. From a 700 4150…. Was always in the secondary’s’ hauling my 32’ trailer all out I always used a 4150 I like the 1411 once the bug’s were cured 👍🏻
@@MuscleCarSolutions I appreciate the information and your knowledge I didn’t want to go to big seeing the 700 4150 with the choke horn eliminated worked awesome was trying to improve mileage the plug reading is perfect the electric choke is nice not having to sit in a cold truck warming it up anymore 👍🏻 thank you again for your knowledge cheers to you my friend ☕️
Thanks boss! That’s why I love the work you guys do in your channel. Extremely helpful and it’s making me want to tackle some of my body and sheet metal projects!
Awesome videos! So I just purchased a 4.5 - 9psi FPR from Jegs to plumb up to my Edelbrock1406 and noticed that it didn't come with the boost port fitting but there is a threaded hole for one. Is it mandatory that I run manifold vacuum for the regulator? I have a 1970 mustang with a 351W and stock mechanical pump. It looked like you weren't running vacuum up to yours in the video. Thanks again for the education on this! :)
If it’s the jegs brand regulator, I’m sorry. Make sure that’s not a port for a fuel gauge. I don’t know anything about the jegs knock off stuff other than it’s low quality. 😆 On boosted cars, that’s the reference port that opens up to flow that additional fuel needed. On an n/a engine, just leave it be. Don’t cap it. Just open to atmospheric pressure.
I got a edelbrock 383 stoker and my water temps reach 230-240 degrees when I only take it to town and back, maybe a in depth and some pointers to help me out, I’m fairly new to carb motors
Timing, cooling system (radiator, fan, shroud, air in the system) is where to start. If it’s a freshly rebuilt engine, they’ll typically run a few degrees hotter for that first few hundred miles of break in but settles more into a normal range after that.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok thank you so much, any other pointer for me to check first if my engine is also misfiring on me (only out of the right pipe) when I’m in 2nd gear 10-20% throttle, but if I’m pedal to the floor it seems to run “fine”
@Tenascity_s10 It sounds like the ignition doesn't have adequate advance at idle and part throttle. Check to make sure that the vacuum advance canister on the distributor is functioning, and make sure that it is connected to manifold vacuum. Make sure that you have adequate initial advance as well.
Mine diesels when im turning it off.. i have to dump the clutch to kill the engine or it will run on forever.. when i put on another borrowed carb, no problem.. only with the avs2
Hey great to see you again! Always happy to see you stop by. Unfortunately they aren’t sold separately through Edelbrock but I’m sure they can be purchased elsewhere.
Ask them if they have a FelPro FPG 60032. That’s a reasonably priced one. Doing well here. Looking forward to a holiday week off to get some rhubarb done around the shop. Hope all is well in your world!
As always, great information! I ordered a Holley regulator this year, still haven't installed it, but I noticed a month ago, my pressure gauge is bouncing around 9 psi. ( After I figured out I needed to bleed it to get a proper reading.) I hope to install it this winter, it does seem to noticeably over fuel when I first start it in the morning, runs rough and takes a bit to smooth out.
Pressure regulator is one of the most underused parts of a fuel system that all carburetor guys seem to over look. I never run a carburetor without one!
@@jasoneardley2202 Mine is, found the instructions years after I installed it, said to pull the little black cap and bleed it for it to work correctly.
I'd like to add a fuel pressure regulator to my 390 FE, but they are so big and bulky and i have a hard line coming from my mechanical fuel pump, then a short piece of rubber hose, then a hard line running to the edlebrock with the banjo bolt connected to the carb. Just trying to figure out what fittings i need is making my head hurt. Had my car stall when braking hard and making a left turn and it was scary. I'd like to avoid that again. currently trying to adjust the idle mixture screws and leaning it out seems to have made it easier to start when hot and it warms up a hell of a lot quicker than before. I think it was on the richer side at idle before, but spark plugs looked fine to me. nice light brown color.
@@mooosestang you’re making excuses and over complicating it! Edelbrock has a nice simple fuel line that you can screw in -06 fittings. That’s where I put my fuel gauge so I know exactly what pressure the carb sees. The gauges are small. You can connect it all up at the end with a barbed fitting if you’re still using rubber hose.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Well i'd like to know the pressure, but it is running ok and i didn't install the carb. I'm hesitant to touch it as i seem to make things worse on this car.🤣 I think i may have that edelbrock fuel line with a barb adapter. i will have to disassemble it and see. I know these 63 tbirds had a hard line originally all the way to the carb and someone must have cut it right above the intake manifold to install this edelbrock 1411. they used a 4 inc piece of rubber fuel line and that ededbrock hardline.
Great video. Thanks. My edelbrock issue is wot. Everything is tuned properly on my 650avs until it comes to wot. I have a a/f gauge on my truck. Readings are around 13.7 to 14.5 through idle , cruise and light acceleration but when I stab the gas pedal the gauge goes off the chart above 26 and the engine cuts out until I let off gas a little. I put the largest jets in secondary .104 and have tighten down the secondary valve spring about as far as it will go. The motor is a sbc 350 with aluminum heads , 2.04 intake valves, large cam 268 grind, headers and ems edelbrock intake. Any help would be appreciated.
I am so happy to have found you and your very informative videos! I have a new Edelbrok on a classic caddy, 500 big block. Was running great, but now I have raging high RPMS in neutral and park and engine run on. This happened out of the blue. Any suggestions? Thanks!
It’s a matter of figuring out what’s changed. Fast idle cam stuck open? Drivers side of the carb that increases the idle speed during choke. Get some garbage in the carb and the needles are stuck open?
12:36 how much time ya got? Ahaha but seriously this has been super helpful to me. Unfortunately for me i think i will have to watch all your videos on tuning because ive been working on this v8 swap for YEARS and still runs like crap. I do have most of the issues you mentioned. Bad stumble at quick stops or turns, fuel smell in oil, etc. But thanks so much for the helpful info
Most issues can be corrected fairly easily. Ones that can’t be usually aren’t the fault of the carburetor, but it being put into a situation it wasn’t designed to work in. Let me know if you have any questions as you sort through your issues. Happy to help where I can.
I'm a novice and will look at your other vids... got an issue. Here's my info. New ish avs 1406 on a ford 289. Using a temp 1gal can for fuel and a fuel line (keeping that temp arraignment above the carb inlet) my thought is I can have enough pressure with that rig without using a pump... in my few initial starts I have yet to get it to a smooth idle. Thoughts on my fuel delivery set up?
@@BoxcarsGarage you’ve got a lot to fight there. The performer series 1406 is a bit too big if that’s a stock 289. If you’re gravity feeding fuel, it’s probably not enough to push past the needle and seats. Why not just hook your fuel system up properly? Between that and ignition timing, they’re the two biggest keys to success for any carburetor and both are likely fighting you.
@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for that. It's a 289 HiPo so believe it comes in around 311hp. Had the 1406 and figured close enough. Car is a 34 ford...former hotrod that I'm fleshing up. Gas tank needs work so it's incrementally being addressed. Appreciate your info!
@MuscleCarSolutions update.... I put a new 500 cfm on it and it's a happy car now. Figured out what was up with the 650. One air/fuel needle had sheared off at the threads and the chamber that was controlling had a rice sized hole punched out of the sidewall ...by the vertical slit. Unsure that was tied to the needle over lightning but assuming so.
Question. After sitting for about 2 months, my Holley 600 after start-up leaks fuel from the secondary fuel bowl? Gasket dryed up? Why? Let it sit overnight and fine!
Evaporates. Ethanol added fuel goes faster. Alcohol evaporates quickly, especially when it’s been run and the heat from the engine gives it the heat it needs to dissipate faster.
Question the bolt that screws onto the carburetor on the fueline that has 2 holes on it does it have to be aligned with the fuel hole coming from the line? My carburetor seems not to get any fuel. Pump works.
Strangely enough I have this problem and my question is can you put 2 gasket under the carburetor. And I have a 6288 gasket with a middle gasket running across the gasket. Where as the one in your video doesn't have the split in the middle
Hey my manual eldelbrock is dumping alot of gas. Manual fuel pump and inline plastic filter only. My question is do I need a fuel regulator or inline fuel filter
Mine likes to stumble or rpm drop when braking or turning sharp... I don't have anything hooked up to the vacuum system except vacuum advance... been persistent despite several overhalls over the years, and several different step-up springs...
i’m using edelbrock fuel pump witch is regulated to 6psi i am having an issue where there is fuel spraying out of the metering rods i pulled the top half off and adjusted the floats as you instructed on other video and i am still having the same issue
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for the response i just ordered a in line fuel pressure gauge my understanding is the edelbrock fuel pump only puts out 6psi we put the same set up on my buddies 350 a year ago and he hasn’t had any issues what brand of regulator are you using ? i have the same set up as you i’m using -6 fittings with the edelbrock 8131
I recently scrapped the Holley viper EFI due to constant problems and installed an edelbrok carb with electric choke. I am very happy with the performance but I can’t get the idle down. Is there a process for adjusting the electric choke that will allow the idle to come down?
What will cause an engine to fall flat on it's face, backfire, and die when I rack the throttle? Rebuilt the carb and haven't touched the timing, was running fine before.
Running fine is always a concerning statement. Best to not think in those terms. So let’s start with the basics. What is your initial timing set to? If you’re backfiring though the carb, it’s generally the ignition. If it’s through the exhaust, look for a lean condition. Didn’t really get any details on when this was occurring so I’m just guessing at this point.
@@MuscleCarSolutions By running fine, there were no issues. I put a vacuum gauge on it today it it pulled 0 @ idle and 15 with throttle. Both the ported side and manifold side. That explains the backfire through the carb, it's retarding the timing when it should be advancing. Now the question is what is causing that?
How about a carb that seems to scream/howl when running? I have a 454 with a 1913 on it. Having enough trouble trying to get it to idle, but when it warms up enough to do so, it screams so loud, I have to have hearing protection when looking under the hood. Ever heard of that? I loosened off belts too to check the alternator for noises, water pump, they seem quiet. But I did find another video with a guy who has the same issue with his Edelbrock. I haven't heard back from him yet, so trying other folks like yourself.
Only ones I’ve ever seen like that had a massive vacuum leak. Wasn’t the carb at all. Intake. Port on the back of the carb not plugged. Plug or tree left off the manifold. Lots of things it could be.
@@MuscleCarSolutions All good!! I JUST figured out what it was. I was able to slide in a piece of paper between the adaptor plate and the manifold, right above the gasket, quite a ways... Gotchya There was so much crap in the mounting threads of the intake manifold, I got a false tighten down previously when I installed it. Cleaned them out, reinstalled everything, NOW she runs nice! Idles good, and as quiet under the hood as expected. Thanks for the reply!
What do you think about installing a AFR Gauge to help with tuning ? I have a complete setup that you explained including a return line to keep unused fuel moving . To help with heat soak . Do you have any setup or tuning tips on this . AFR gauge
One video I have planned for a few months from now when it gets warmer is how to tune with an AFR. I absolutely recommend one. Once you have one and get used to the feedback it gives, you’ll never go back to tuning a carburetor any other way.
Thank you for the tips. I just grounded my choke to the choke screw, is that ok? Would you cut out the fin and a dual plane intake? If so what changes should me made to the carb. AVS2 650cfm
It’s not my first option, but if the choke ever starts not operating correctly, change the ground location to something better. And no, absolutely don’t cut the intake divider. It’s how those cylinders are assured the correct distribution.
I have a AVS2 carburetor on a 383 stroker. Erratic idle and shakes pretty knarly, timing is correct for what I can tell and vacuum advance is ported. I disconnected the regulator completely and it shakes less but not completely nice and smooth. I was wondering if there's something idk about edelbrocks that can cause these issues with fuel delivery. Fuel pressure is at 4 psi
What is the timing set to? What intake are you using? Have you tried bumping up the pressure to where it should operate (4.5-6 PSI)? Start at 6. Tell me about your fuel filters. What micron size on each and when was the last time you changed them?
@@MuscleCarSolutions micron size, no idea, but for sure it's not restricted and it's brand new. I can blow thru it fine. Timing is around 10° BTDC, I adjusted it to what it runs best at (I Feel) but it hasn't really changed how it shakes. Can't set the regulator to anything, I took it out and it slightly improved it so left it out. However it didn't change the pressure, maybe just volume? Using a Weiand vortec style intake manifold. Using a 4-7 psi dual fuel universal pump. I tried changing pumps, but nothing. Tried changing filters, nothing. I took the regulator out, and it shook less, but still erratic.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I suspected that so I sprayed around with carb cleaner, someone told me that it has to be internal because it didn't pick up idle when sprayed. Vortec manifolds are notorious for internal vacuum leaks
after 1 year of constantly tearing into my 600 edelbrock because of reversion thinking it was trash and constantly lowering pressure and float level turns out i had some misfiring plugs at idle causing it, ran great above idle couldn't hear it at idle in exhaust or by pulling wires was a little hard to find it will always be worse on single plane manifolds than dual plane imo.
Hi fist time watcher 👋 I have a 350 with a 608 Edelbrock, I have a stock Carter fuel pump I recently installed... It ran great for about a week then sputtering like crazy difficult trying to start... Never had a fuel regulator but I'll be checking into it this weekend I did purchase a fuel pressure gauge, I was unsure if the fuel pump was actually pumping fuel so I disconnected it from the carburetor and stuck it in a clear bottle and boy it filled that bottle up in a matter of seconds, Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to work
I got a avs edelbrock carb and it floods number 8 cylinder to the point it want run on that cylinder st idle it’s a new carb add my thoughts fuel pressure is 5.5
@@markbolin2854 something isn’t right. Start with the basics first. Dial back the pressure to 4psi and see what the results are. Now would be a good time to pop the top off and see if you’ve got garbage in the needle and seats and the float bowls. Remove the idle mixture screws and blow through them with some carb cleaner. Take the primary boosters off and same thing. Really blow through them and through the main body. Verify you’re getting spark to the #8 plug.
The hole under the electric choke when sealed is not a vacuum leak. It’s designed to cool the choke as the constant power running to it will heat the coil and it needs to be cooled down. Plugging that hole will destroy the choke housing. You’ll know when when it’s a ball of molten goo on your manifold or worse.
On your fuel regulator I saw some one on a video saying having it before the fuel enters the carb is wrong that it should be setup at the end of the line with a fuel return what do you think about that?
I have a question. I have a vacuum leak by the passenger side near we're it bolts to the intake. I ordered the steel plate and two new gaskets and still has a vacuum leak. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks for any Help
I have an Edelbrock AVS carb on an LS. When I bought the truck it was flooded every time I started it hot. I have taken the carb apart and cleaned everything with spray carb cleaner, replaced everything in the rebuild kit including the needle and seat. Adjusted the floats to the drill bit as instructed. Reassembled and still having the same issue. Engine off, electric fuel pump running at 4 psi, there is fuel coming out of the Venturi boosters. Is there anything specific to check when I pull it back apart? Thanks
I did not install it so I am not sure of the exact brand but it looks like a Summit SUM-G3032B and it has a Summit in line fuel pressure gauge at the inlet of the carburetor. It was up around 5 psi and I adjusted it down to 4 psi. Fuel pump running, Engine running or not. Pressure drops to zero after shutting the in tank fuel pump off. It has an in line fuel filter between the pump and the regulator. New fuel line between the regulator and the carburetor. I thought about putting another fuel filter after the regular.
@@HoosierTruckRally it’s really hard to stay then. It could be an EFI pump that has a much higher flow rate (which means higher pressure) and there are regulators designed to lower that rate down from the high EFI side down to what a carburetor can handle. I’m not a fan of the summit brand name stuff. It’s typically a bad copy of a name brand and the quality is sometimes questionable. Maybe verify what pump is being used and then determine what the regulator is and see if they are compatible. Maybe that’s your pressure issue.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so you are saying the pressure could still be to high even though the gauge is reading 4 psi? That could explain some things. Should I get a regulator with a return on it? Would that help the pump since it would not be dead headed? Thanks for the information.
@@HoosierTruckRally depends. If you’re ok running a return line, it’s generally not a bad thing. Gauge could be reading wrong. Wouldn’t be the first time that happened.
What is a for sure symptom of too big of accelerator pump squirters being too big? At high altitude such as 5000 feet, should I go smaller accelerator squirters? I have a pretty healthy built 351m punched 60 over and full roller valvetrain with a Howards Rattler cam. Still have stock exhaust unfortunately for now. Pistons are flat top zero deck forged with 2v cleveland heads. Port matched intake. Weiland 8010 4v intake and a 1411 carb.
I love these carburetors but I only have the one issue every time I come to a stop after I’m driving the car for a while and it’s nice and hot the car dies out at a stop I literally have to hold the gas and the break at the same time just to keep it on when I’m stopped at a light or put it in neutral every time..
My son helped me out on a F-600 on getting it running, I believe it's a 351 industrial engine. Anyway I finally got it to start this morning and it's chugging, trying to accelerate but it's having a tough time. Could the carburetor be loading up?? Any help is appreciated, thank you
Way too many things that it could be. Start with all the basics. Timing, ignition system, fuel system. Get those right first, then look at the carburetor.
I have dual 1404 carbs on a 396 Chevy, overnite the fue drains out and I have to pour gas in the carbs to start, after that it starts and runs well all day ?
If the carbs are bolted directly to the intake, the ethanol is boiling off and taking the gas right along with it. Common issue with ethanol added fuels.
I added 1" aluminum spacers and 1/2" wood spacers about two weeks ago, that's when this problem started, I started the car last night and ran for 2 minutes so no heat, shut off and let sit overnight and carbs are dry this morning ?@@MuscleCarSolutions
I can run the engine for 2 minutes then shut down and the next day it won't start until I add gas into the carbs, where can the gas leak to overnite ? Not a heat issue.@@MuscleCarSolutions
GOOD ADVISE Question; I have a 440 with 2 1960 500s just rebuilt them, car makes 5 inches of vacuum,have 5 psi springs, have 6 psi and a new mechanical fuel pump, floats are set with 1/2 inch bit I'm in phoenix. car surges with it in drive. sprayed base and intake no leaks visible. changed jets to 90s runs between 12.5 and 13, on my o2s timing is set on point. thanks for anymore help
I have the edelbrock avs2 on my 84 Monte Carlo and I have to keep kicking down the idle. The idle will be high on startup then I have to kick it down but when I race the engine at anytime, even after it has warmed up it will be stuck back in high idle and I have to kick it down again. It does it when its parked and even when I am driving and moving. What would be the cause? Thank you!
Covered that on a few videos. Most likely it’s heat soak that’s boiling the ethanol out of the carb. What are you floats set to? Your fuel system configuration is also critical. We can talk about what your pressure regulator is set to later. I have a video on heat soak if you’d like to check that out.
@@MuscleCarSolutions the set up is on a 1987 chevy truck that was originally tbi , my dad bought the truck new and I have been rebuilding the truck completely the engine is a fresh rebuild with a mild rv cam ( how the builder explained it ) the truck has dual tanks that I have replaced tanks and just recently replaced the switch valve on the frame which caused problems because it was blocking the return and caused the pressure to go extremely high so after repairs it had caused issues for the carburetor so I had someone repair the carburetor he found a float with fuel in it so they were replaced, just wondering if you might could help , plugs don't look terribly and oil doesn't seem to full of fuel it was replaced after I fixed the sector valve but not since carburetor repairs just put it on yesterday Thanks very much for the help Steve
Here a question for you when I get in my car to start it I pump the gas a few times and it will start and then it will not sure I want to say backfire or sounds like a sneeze. There is no choke hooked up and after running it seems to be really rich and almost burn your eyes. I purchased the vehicle this why and would like some help figuring it out. It’s an Edelbrock carb
Go through all the initial set up checks. Ignition timing/system, reset distributor install. Fuel pressure/regulator adjustment, filters. Float adjustment. Needle and seat check. Set idle mixture and speed. Now you can start tuning.
My doctor told me I had to cut my carbs. Now, they leak! I'm going to check all this on my 1403 on a 283 4 spd. It seems to leak from both rear side screws and when you decel for a bit and then step on the throttle, it bogs sometimes. I haven't touched anything on it, yet. Yes, I'm starting with the fuel pressure.
Hard to say. Check the pump cup. Remove the nozzle and see if you can run some small wire (22 g) through to see if there’s blockage. Spray some carb cleaner through the entire system. It’s not uncommon to get garbage in a carburetor. Especially with ethanol additive fuels.
@@MuscleCarSolutions old tired 300 hp chevy crate engine. Don't drive it much. When I do its work and back. Have seen some carb issues from too much pressure. Didn't realize this until just now watching your video.
Hey thank you for your videos! I am riding my 1953 chevy 210 With an 292chevy inline six with a 1403 500cfm carburetor. My pump brings around 3 psi. My air / fuel is between 13 and 14:1. My idle is perfect. Now my question is why is my car not running more than 3500 rpm? Can you help me? Maybe im just dumb or my fuel pressure ist to low?
Well it might be the pressure and volume isn’t enough to keep up. I never go below 4.5psi on these carbs. But if you’re not able to get past 3500, I’d be looking at the distributor.
Regarding the electric choke on my avs2. Im noticing it does not kickdown easily after about 3 1/2 minutes of warm up time. Before i light touch on the pedal will bring it down but now it seems i have to press the pedal harder to kickdown. Any insight would be appreciated. Also note if tried clearing an cleaning linkages and check for binding. Currently at 2 1/2 notches on the lean side from factory. Thanks
That’s completely normal. It’s an electric choke, not an automatic choke. If you’re experiencing some binding, generally I start on the opposite side and look at the fast idle cam and linkage. Seems to be where most commonly get a little tweaked.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks good to now its normal and nothing serious. Ill check again i notice any binding an keep that in mind. If you don't mind me asking what is the average time a electric choke should run before needing to be turned off?
@@ivanr5436 too many variables! Here in the mid south where a cold winter morning is generally in the 30-40 degree range? Couple minutes usually. But they don’t have an on/off switch. They operate when key on power goes to them (if wired correctly). Colder climates I’m sure it’s quite a bit longer, but it’s been quite a few years where I was in a colder climate.
I listed a few in the description. I’m always hesitant to suggest the really cheap ones as the regulators are very inaccurate and they rarely hold an adjustment.
I have a edelbrock 1405 600cfm manual choke (new for this build)on 350sbc with mild cam 9.5to1 compression accel hei timed at 10degrees advanced initial timing and 30 degrees max advance( timing is on low side for pump gas) . I have fuel pressure regulator set at 5 psi. Engine runs great at idle and partial throttle but when the secondaries come in under load the engine acts as if its running out of fuel. I have tried 2 different mechanical fuel pumps and have replaced fuel lines and went as far as to plumb a fuel cell and fresh line and cant get away from this situation. Float level is set with 7/16" bit. What am I missing?????
Go to 6 psi on the regulator, put fresh plugs in an read them. Not sure what you meant by your initial timing but 30 on full advance isn’t enough. Unless you’re getting a lot of pinging, add more timing. Todays crappy ethanol fuel needs more timing. Have you tuned the carburetor yet? What secondary jets did you go with? What step up springs did you go with? If the answer is it hasn’t been tuned yet, then that’s your next step.
I just changed plugs and replaced valve seals. Plugs were loaded with sut. After I put it back together, I have a very accelerated idle. Adjusted valves but can't seem to reduce idle. 1406 edelbrock car. Please help
Heres a question. Got a 1905 on a 300hp 350 build, in a 1 ton truck. And when i snap the throttle, it backfires, but ONLY out of the secondary. But the primary is fine. It also struggles with hills. Is it just lean?? will rods or jets fix that?
@@jessehasch8493 I have dozens of questions. Need to know a lot more details. The main questions would be, are you sure the 650 is the best size for that application?
@MuscleCarSolutions i have no reason to believe it would need any bigger than 650. The build is pretty mild. Heres more details. Its freshly rebuilt, only has 10 miles on it, it has performance heads, headers, edelbrock eps dual plane intake, its a 3 speed with a granny gear and the truck its in weighs like 10,000 pounds. It has 14 degrees initial timing. And it takes off and moves beautifully. But if i stab the throttle, it backfires. Whether its under load or not. Also it has the strongest springs in it because it makes like 17 inches at idle
@MuscleCarSolutions no idea. Dont want it going much above 6500 though, especially during break in miles. But anything past 1st gear it struggles to accelerate under any more than half throttle. It accelerates easier with LESS throttle. Which makes me think lean. But of course id like your opinion. Are you under the impression the carb is too small?
@@jessehasch8493 too big. But if the cam is spec’ed for higher rpm, then maybe. But a granny gear trans and a 10,000 lb truck needs low end torque. I’m assuming that’s how you built the engine. Typically those applications operate well under 4500 rpm. If yours falls outside of that, then maybe it’s not what’s fighting you.
I have the Edlebrock dual quad set up. All new. Rear carb works good. Front carb backfires thru carb no matter what progressive linkage I use. Any help?
My hubby found that this carb. Runs better on a divided intake than an open one. Its sensitive to vacuum. Also every new one he has checked, The floats were off ! Run a thick gasket under the carb. To keep vapor lock In check .
If you look in my two minute tech series I did a video on high idle issues. Check that video out and see if it gives you some direction on what to check.
You can watch the video I did on heat soak. Might give you a few things to try including fuel pressure and float heights. Without more info I really can’t make any other suggestions.
I’ve got an issue I wanted to see if you have heard of. I think I have a vacuum leak, I’ve put a new carb, fuel pump, throttle cable, etc. now every time I put the car into gear it revs all the way to redline! It burns out and acts like the throttle is stuck. I know the linkage and carb is fine. I’ve checked everything! The only thing Left I can think of is my brake booster. I just bought a new one to replace it. Have you ever heard of that?!?
I have had to many elderbrock 1406 on 20+ or my cars and never had the problem I am having now. It will not cold start engine what so ever no mater where I put timing. A quick spray of starter fluid fires right up runs outstanding like all the others in the past and when warm or sits less then a day it will fire right up but as soon as it sits over night boom will not fire engine unless it gets a starter fluid kick. On start up fuel pressure hits 6 psi. I pulled apart four or five times cleaning resetting floats looking for anything that looks suspicious have not found anything. Would you happen to have a idea what I should be checking to fix?
Maybe stupid simple reply; mine does this aftera few days if sitting but will start eventually after painful amount of cranking. I suspect the fuel evaporates out of get bowls completely. My rule of thumb is I can expect this if my glass fuel filter before the carb is dry, it will be dry in the carb too
I have been fighting a off idle lean rolling into part throttle. 1906 avs2. I have tried the next level up on the tunning chart (12) with little help. Engine: 350 L31vortec new crate engine, bone stock with low rise intake. Truck: 87 chevy k30- 8000lbs 4 speed. Very stock..
Timing 11' med spring on the advance. Afr in the cab. Idle screw only .5 turns out for 12.5 AFR. idle speed 850 no vacuum showing on ported side. Seems to run out of fuel before step-up springs can enrichen. Silver springs (Heavy)
Having trouble with idle .electric choke don't seem to be helping during warm up . Strong ordor of fuel and trouble keeping it running until engine has reached operating. temperature. Begins to idle ok until I drop it into drive or reverse then engine will stall out . Its has a new 750 cfm eldebrock card on 400ci Pontiac with ram air 3 can by elgin . Timing is in spec. Engine is rebuilt , no vacuum leaks as far as I can tell . Although it feels like a Vacuum leak. Car runs very good down the road but idle sucks ! Unless, its in neutral, then it idles fine ,after it has warmed up . Soon as it is in gear , it wants to shut off . What can I do to fix it 😂
I've got a problem where the car will stall out if you do a quick turn when off the throttle. Say a u turn or pulling quickly into a parking spot. It doesn't do it under straight line braking. It feels like it over fuels on a quick turn as when I go to restart it takes quite a few seconds to re fire. It ok on a slow turn but get a little aggressive and it stalls out. I've checked the float levels and the needle and seats. Ignition timing is good. I'm stumped ??
Got a 350 vortex heads 1906 carb. It will hesitate when you floor it at 55. What r my options. I’ve tried adjusting the accelerator pump linkage and neither hole makes a difference. Any help would be much appreciated
Hey there, anyone who has knowledge. I am having a miss while giving throttle,in park with no load. It sputters and Boggs down , sometime it dies. Engine has good even compression. Brand new plugs, wires and distributor. I replaced the whole ignition system three times. So I highly doubt that’s the issue. Car runs perfectly fine at idle 20 inches of vacuum but as soon as the throttle opens 15-20% that’s it. Vacuum drops down. And the problem starts. I overhauled a 1405 and 1406 I see no difference between both of them. Fuel pump also has been changed multiple times. At this point, I’m wondering if it’fuel starvation or something else. Any ideas for me?
Anything over 3.5 lbs per sq. Inch it floods . My Edelbrock mod. 1406 has been rebuilt including new needle and seat ! Still floods over 3.5 lbs/ sq. In.
Thank you for the video. I have a big problem with my 500cfm Carb. I runs over the last 5 yeaes very well, but after the car stands for 6 months it has no idle. I rebuild the carb with a set, but it did not work. On higher rpm it works and I can drive, but stopping the car the engine dies. For a test I change the edelbrock carb from my Sons car, and with these carb it runs perfect. So there is no Problem with the vaccum lines (which I have renewed) or the fuel or the ignition. It must be a Problem with my carb inside. Have you any idea? Thanks 😊
Difficult to say. If you out on another carburetor and it works, then you’ve got more cleaning to do on the first carb or some investigating to do as to why it won’t idle.
I have a question, I have a new avs2 I have went threw it trying to tune it , I am not a carburetor guy and have never ran a Edelbrock until now, anyway it runs really rich no matter what I do,. The tuning screws where you turn it all the way in until it starts sputtering then back them back out, the one on the right makes no difference I can run it all the way in and it makes no difference, any help will be much appreciated..
I've got an Edelbrock 4150 on a mild built 460 ci engine. My problem is that this engine is cold blooded and requires the choke to be fully closed at initial start-up. This Edelbrock choke is adjusted to the point that the choke wants to close, but for some reason it seems to be sticking in the open position, even after depressing the gas pedal to the floor. If I pull the air cleaner housing off and barely touch the choke linkage, it will slap the choke closed. I've lubed the linkage to no avail. Do you have any idea why this may be happening? TIA for any input you may have.
I’m sure you’re not talking about the Edelbrock VRS-4150 but a performer or AVS carburetor. They have a choke, the race carburetor does not. Assuming this is also an electric choke carb. Make sure you have the cap on correctly so it hooks the rod that closes and allows open the choke. I’d start there. The linkages don’t require any lubrication, only to be installed properly. Might also verify that as well when you take the choke housing off to reset it.
I have a problem with my edelbrock 650 avs2. My vacuum in gear is around 12"hg, in neutral 14" hg. So i use the orange step up springs. Problem is att light load vacuum are around 15-18 hg. So im getting a Leander spot thats makes a smal pinging. Dont know how to solve the problem. If I use 7hg spring, i have fluktation when in gear. How can i solve the problem?
i have an Edelbrock 1405 with a lean condition on right side. start with fuel pressure 7 psi. when engine running and rocking the accelerator pump it pushes less fuel out the right port. also when past this section there is less fuel going through the main jet to fuel the right side. both floats are set the same and will float in fluid. i have had it apart to clean with carburetor cleaner and forced air. also cleaned fuel filters attached to needle valve. i didnt change internal gasket cause i didnt see a tear but could this cause my lean condition on right side?
Could. It’s an expense, but having a dual WBO2 would let you monitor each side and see how it’s affecting your engine in different conditions. It’s kind of weird though on the accelerator pump. I did a video where we milled down the front of a carburetor and the passage that feeds the nozzle is the same all the way up to it. So unless it’s clogged at the nozzle, it’s not a left/right specific issue.
I work at a carburetor rebuild shop and tunning engines in AZ. LOTS of problems w newer Edelbrock chokes. Needing to replace the thermostat right out of the box. And the AVS models can never get rid of the part throttle sag. Many of hours, of tunning. Different engines and set ups. Also have seen out of box partially blocked passages in the primary booster's as well.
Haven’t run into that at all. The choke mechanisms have worked perfectly on the new carbs. Wonder why you’re experiencing ones that don’t work? Tuning hasn’t been difficult. The annular boosters have made it very easy and very quick. The older nozzle style boosters have generally taken a bit longer but I haven’t had any problems.
@@tedslife7086 so engine running and they’re all the way down? That’s normal. When vacuum drops, the spring releases at the point that it’s rated to. That’s what starts full flow of the main metering circuit.
Wondered about the ticking. My Avs 2 has been nothing but a headache since letting a master mechanic swear he could get it running better.. Less than 1000 miles & its coming apart. Thanks to genious know it all. I'll get it right. Thanks.
Do you know if know if there is any difference in between the stock accelerator pump with the reddish orange gasket and the replacement pump part number 1470. The replacement has a blue gasket. The stock pump looks to have more travel then the replacement. Does this have much of an effect if I'm seeing it right?
Springs are different on the later ones. Black pumps with orange cups come in larger CFM carbs with stronger spring. Blue cups with white pumps come in smaller CFM.
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You're right about ignition timing and carburetor tune working together. After dealing with vapor lock/overheating issues on a chevy truck and replacing everything to try to get it to run cooler (new radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, new fan clutch) it still would get up to about 215 degrees on the temperature gauge and shut down from vapor lock/no fuel. Then I even tried insulating the fuel line, adding a return/vapor line from a filter right up close to the carb, blocked off heat riser to intake... I even "recalibrated" the new fan clutch to pull more air... still got too hot and died. Then I did a little research and decided to double check my vacuum advance. All I did was switch the vacuum advance from a ported vacuum source to a manifold vacuum source and adjusted the vacuum diaphragm for maximum advance. That is what finally fixed it, now the temperature gauge stays around 170-180 degrees even in traffic. My gas mileage also greatly improved. Oil no longer smells as gassy. My point is that just a little change to your vacuum advance timing can not only allow engine to run cooler, but also burn much cleaner with less fuel. I also remember noticing on another vehicle that going down interstate at 65 MPH with vacuum advance disconnected I had to keep my foot into the throttle like almost halfway, almost opening the secondaries. Once I reconnected the vacuum advance, I could cruise at 65MPH with the throttle barely cracked open.
Well you told my whole story for me lol. Accept the part where I haven't fixed it yet. All that is going on the top of my to do list. Thanks bud
@@1badombre82 hopefully u have a MIGHTY MOPAR BIG BLOCK HEMI
@@wildestcowboy2668 far from it. 5.0 from a mustang carb converted in a ford ranger. Do have a Mopar though. 74 charger 318 automatic
@@1badombre82 it ain't a general Lee but it is a 2door V8 and last year of the real chargers
Vapor filter helps with a return to tank.
Thanks! Most helpful RUclipsr!
Many thanks!
I do recommend going the little extra hassle to install an inwire fuse holder (and fuse) into the electric choke system. It's not so much about protecting the choke, it's making sure your wiring doesn't go up in smoke should the choke positive wire come off and touch the engine etc. it has saved me once and not having to redo all your wiring trying to find where the insulation is melted is extremely nice.
I can appreciate the safety factor here. I don’t think anyone would ever discourage it. If you want to run one, good on ya!
true;been there.
I suppose if your driving like an animal down dirt roads and sand pit’s 🇺🇸💪🏼🦅
@@jasoneardley2202 Nah mate, I'm a professional electronics technician. Never underestimate the value of good fusing
Shrink tube the end with slight overhang and it will never short on anything. (Use an extra 1/4" and after heating , trim until an 1/8" or so is left. It will not affect your connection.)
Id like to see a video on driving,
w an AFR meter and Vacuum gauge, to see mixture changes at foot settings.
Also- how timed vac port works with vac advance.
Just wanted to say that he said the reverse of what he meant. The primary rod springs should be weaker(half the vacuum,especially on an automatic, not quite on a manual)not stronger, just like the power valve on a holley to keep them closed or open in proportion to power/vacuum. In simple terms, a/c on in drive requires higher f/a
ratio than no Load
Great video thank you !
I didn’t realize the big O carb gasket was so important, maybe that’s why it dies sometimes when I goose the throttle.
Next step is to add a fuel rail and pressure regulator 👍
I’ve used a lot of his tips I just purchased a 1411 750 for my 496 Chevrolet bb I had a flat spot right off the crack of the throttle I went one step richer on the metering rod’s still had a flat spot couldn’t get a excelerator pump nozzle kit I drilled the nozzles out by hand flat spot went away 👍🏻 doubled my gas mileage changing it. From a 700 4150…. Was always in the secondary’s’ hauling my 32’ trailer all out I always used a 4150 I like the 1411 once the bug’s were cured 👍🏻
If you get to a point where you need more fuel, the 800 AVS2 with the annular boosters is a noticeable upgrade. Cheers!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I appreciate the information and your knowledge I didn’t want to go to big seeing the 700 4150 with the choke horn eliminated worked awesome was trying to improve mileage the plug reading is perfect the electric choke is nice not having to sit in a cold truck warming it up anymore 👍🏻 thank you again for your knowledge cheers to you my friend ☕️
Sounds like you found the perfect combination! Thank you! Very glad you’ve found it useful.
@@MuscleCarSolutions the Edlebrock was a virgin to me!! Lol I can tune a 4150 with my eyes closed 🇺🇸
Great info thanks for sharing videos like this sure helps a lot of people
Thanks boss! That’s why I love the work you guys do in your channel. Extremely helpful and it’s making me want to tackle some of my body and sheet metal projects!
Awesome videos! So I just purchased a 4.5 - 9psi FPR from Jegs to plumb up to my Edelbrock1406 and noticed that it didn't come with the boost port fitting but there is a threaded hole for one. Is it mandatory that I run manifold vacuum for the regulator? I have a 1970 mustang with a 351W and stock mechanical pump. It looked like you weren't running vacuum up to yours in the video. Thanks again for the education on this! :)
If it’s the jegs brand regulator, I’m sorry. Make sure that’s not a port for a fuel gauge. I don’t know anything about the jegs knock off stuff other than it’s low quality. 😆 On boosted cars, that’s the reference port that opens up to flow that additional fuel needed. On an n/a engine, just leave it be. Don’t cap it. Just open to atmospheric pressure.
Greatest explanations, great job!😊
Thanks for all of your videos !! Great advice !! 🙂
I got a edelbrock 383 stoker and my water temps reach 230-240 degrees when I only take it to town and back, maybe a in depth and some pointers to help me out, I’m fairly new to carb motors
Timing, cooling system (radiator, fan, shroud, air in the system) is where to start. If it’s a freshly rebuilt engine, they’ll typically run a few degrees hotter for that first few hundred miles of break in but settles more into a normal range after that.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok thank you so much, any other pointer for me to check first if my engine is also misfiring on me (only out of the right pipe) when I’m in 2nd gear 10-20% throttle, but if I’m pedal to the floor it seems to run “fine”
@Tenascity_s10 It sounds like the ignition doesn't have adequate advance at idle and part throttle. Check to make sure that the vacuum advance canister on the distributor is functioning, and make sure that it is connected to manifold vacuum. Make sure that you have adequate initial advance as well.
Mine diesels when im turning it off.. i have to dump the clutch to kill the engine or it will run on forever.. when i put on another borrowed carb, no problem.. only with the avs2
Lean condition
Great video as always !!! Thanks again!!
What’s the part number for the air cleaner gasket?
Hey great to see you again! Always happy to see you stop by. Unfortunately they aren’t sold separately through Edelbrock but I’m sure they can be purchased elsewhere.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks I’ll check out my local Napa store
Hope your well !!!
Ask them if they have a FelPro FPG 60032. That’s a reasonably priced one. Doing well here. Looking forward to a holiday week off to get some rhubarb done around the shop. Hope all is well in your world!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you!!
I’m well , just busy with work
Wishing you and your family a happy thanksgiving!!
You too!
As always, great information! I ordered a Holley regulator this year, still haven't installed it, but I noticed a month ago, my pressure gauge is bouncing around 9 psi. ( After I figured out I needed to bleed it to get a proper reading.) I hope to install it this winter, it does seem to noticeably over fuel when I first start it in the morning, runs rough and takes a bit to smooth out.
Pressure regulator is one of the most underused parts of a fuel system that all carburetor guys seem to over look. I never run a carburetor without one!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I've always thought I should install one!
I always use liquid filled fuel gauges
@@jasoneardley2202 Mine is, found the instructions years after I installed it, said to pull the little black cap and bleed it for it to work correctly.
@@harnettsgarage definitely need a regulator they improve drivability and smooth fuel delivery
Awesome demonstration good info.
Thank you Mr Vino! Digging the progress in your Vino Rod!
I'd like to add a fuel pressure regulator to my 390 FE, but they are so big and bulky and i have a hard line coming from my mechanical fuel pump, then a short piece of rubber hose, then a hard line running to the edlebrock with the banjo bolt connected to the carb. Just trying to figure out what fittings i need is making my head hurt. Had my car stall when braking hard and making a left turn and it was scary. I'd like to avoid that again. currently trying to adjust the idle mixture screws and leaning it out seems to have made it easier to start when hot and it warms up a hell of a lot quicker than before. I think it was on the richer side at idle before, but spark plugs looked fine to me. nice light brown color.
@@mooosestang you’re making excuses and over complicating it! Edelbrock has a nice simple fuel line that you can screw in -06 fittings. That’s where I put my fuel gauge so I know exactly what pressure the carb sees. The gauges are small. You can connect it all up at the end with a barbed fitting if you’re still using rubber hose.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Well i'd like to know the pressure, but it is running ok and i didn't install the carb. I'm hesitant to touch it as i seem to make things worse on this car.🤣 I think i may have that edelbrock fuel line with a barb adapter. i will have to disassemble it and see. I know these 63 tbirds had a hard line originally all the way to the carb and someone must have cut it right above the intake manifold to install this edelbrock 1411. they used a 4 inc piece of rubber fuel line and that ededbrock hardline.
Great video. Thanks. My edelbrock issue is wot. Everything is tuned properly on my 650avs until it comes to wot. I have a a/f gauge on my truck. Readings are around 13.7 to 14.5 through idle , cruise and light acceleration but when I stab the gas pedal the gauge goes off the chart above 26 and the engine cuts out until I let off gas a little. I put the largest jets in secondary
.104 and have tighten down the secondary valve spring about as far as it will go. The motor is a sbc 350 with aluminum heads , 2.04 intake valves, large cam 268 grind, headers and ems edelbrock intake. Any help would be appreciated.
Nicely Done Sir great explanation thanks again .
I appreciate that! Thank you!
I am so happy to have found you and your very informative videos! I have a new Edelbrok on a classic caddy, 500 big block. Was running great, but now I have raging high RPMS in neutral and park and engine run on. This happened out of the blue. Any suggestions? Thanks!
It’s a matter of figuring out what’s changed. Fast idle cam stuck open? Drivers side of the carb that increases the idle speed during choke. Get some garbage in the carb and the needles are stuck open?
@@MuscleCarSolutions
Thanks for the quick response! Checked all of that, and nothing stuck or gummed up. It is as clean as a whistle.
12:36 how much time ya got? Ahaha but seriously this has been super helpful to me. Unfortunately for me i think i will have to watch all your videos on tuning because ive been working on this v8 swap for YEARS and still runs like crap. I do have most of the issues you mentioned. Bad stumble at quick stops or turns, fuel smell in oil, etc. But thanks so much for the helpful info
Most issues can be corrected fairly easily. Ones that can’t be usually aren’t the fault of the carburetor, but it being put into a situation it wasn’t designed to work in. Let me know if you have any questions as you sort through your issues. Happy to help where I can.
I'm a novice and will look at your other vids... got an issue. Here's my info. New ish avs 1406 on a ford 289. Using a temp 1gal can for fuel and a fuel line (keeping that temp arraignment above the carb inlet) my thought is I can have enough pressure with that rig without using a pump... in my few initial starts I have yet to get it to a smooth idle. Thoughts on my fuel delivery set up?
@@BoxcarsGarage you’ve got a lot to fight there. The performer series 1406 is a bit too big if that’s a stock 289. If you’re gravity feeding fuel, it’s probably not enough to push past the needle and seats. Why not just hook your fuel system up properly? Between that and ignition timing, they’re the two biggest keys to success for any carburetor and both are likely fighting you.
@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for that. It's a 289 HiPo so believe it comes in around 311hp. Had the 1406 and figured close enough. Car is a 34 ford...former hotrod that I'm fleshing up. Gas tank needs work so it's incrementally being addressed. Appreciate your info!
@MuscleCarSolutions update.... I put a new 500 cfm on it and it's a happy car now. Figured out what was up with the 650. One air/fuel needle had sheared off at the threads and the chamber that was controlling had a rice sized hole punched out of the sidewall ...by the vertical slit. Unsure that was tied to the needle over lightning but assuming so.
That’s good to hear!
Question. After sitting for about 2 months, my Holley 600 after start-up leaks fuel from the secondary fuel bowl? Gasket dryed up? Why? Let it sit overnight and fine!
Yeah that’s very common with that style of carburetor. If you got it to seal back up, you’re doing better than most. Just keep an eye on it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions and why when I go to start it, the carb is out of gas. Where did it go?
Evaporates. Ethanol added fuel goes faster. Alcohol evaporates quickly, especially when it’s been run and the heat from the engine gives it the heat it needs to dissipate faster.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks! Love your channel! Keep them coming
@@JimNapaCA thanks! Appreciate that.
Mine has a slight stumble at idle, ever since I ran the elderbrock heat insulator spacer
@@jessestone4650 Test for vacuum leaks would be my first suggestion. Should have gaskets above and below that spacer.
Question the bolt that screws onto the carburetor on the fueline that has 2 holes on it does it have to be aligned with the fuel hole coming from the line? My carburetor seems not to get any fuel. Pump works.
Strangely enough I have this problem and my question is can you put 2 gasket under the carburetor. And I have a 6288 gasket with a middle gasket running across the gasket. Where as the one in your video doesn't have the split in the middle
Hey my manual eldelbrock is dumping alot of gas. Manual fuel pump and inline plastic filter only. My question is do I need a fuel regulator or inline fuel filter
@@mosthighedutainment6663 watch my video on the top 4 reasons why your carb is flooding. I think you’ll find that useful
Mine likes to stumble or rpm drop when braking or turning sharp... I don't have anything hooked up to the vacuum system except vacuum advance... been persistent despite several overhalls over the years, and several different step-up springs...
i’m using edelbrock fuel pump witch is regulated to 6psi i am having an issue where there is fuel spraying out of the metering rods i pulled the top half off and adjusted the floats as you instructed on other video and i am still having the same issue
So what is your fuel pressure at the carb? And the problem with not running a regulator….you can adjust that pressure.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for the response i just ordered a in line fuel pressure gauge my understanding is the edelbrock fuel pump only puts out 6psi we put the same set up on my buddies 350 a year ago and he hasn’t had any issues what brand of regulator are you using ? i have the same set up as you i’m using -6 fittings with the edelbrock 8131
I recently scrapped the Holley viper EFI due to constant problems and installed an edelbrok carb with electric choke.
I am very happy with the performance but I can’t get the idle down. Is there a process for adjusting the electric choke that will allow the idle to come down?
What will cause an engine to fall flat on it's face, backfire, and die when I rack the throttle? Rebuilt the carb and haven't touched the timing, was running fine before.
Running fine is always a concerning statement. Best to not think in those terms. So let’s start with the basics. What is your initial timing set to? If you’re backfiring though the carb, it’s generally the ignition. If it’s through the exhaust, look for a lean condition. Didn’t really get any details on when this was occurring so I’m just guessing at this point.
@@MuscleCarSolutions By running fine, there were no issues. I put a vacuum gauge on it today it it pulled 0 @ idle and 15 with throttle. Both the ported side and manifold side. That explains the backfire through the carb, it's retarding the timing when it should be advancing. Now the question is what is causing that?
How about a carb that seems to scream/howl when running? I have a 454 with a 1913 on it. Having enough trouble trying to get it to idle, but when it warms up enough to do so, it screams so loud, I have to have hearing protection when looking under the hood. Ever heard of that?
I loosened off belts too to check the alternator for noises, water pump, they seem quiet. But I did find another video with a guy who has the same issue with his Edelbrock. I haven't heard back from him yet, so trying other folks like yourself.
Only ones I’ve ever seen like that had a massive vacuum leak. Wasn’t the carb at all. Intake. Port on the back of the carb not plugged. Plug or tree left off the manifold. Lots of things it could be.
@@MuscleCarSolutions All good!! I JUST figured out what it was. I was able to slide in a piece of paper between the adaptor plate and the manifold, right above the gasket, quite a ways... Gotchya
There was so much crap in the mounting threads of the intake manifold, I got a false tighten down previously when I installed it.
Cleaned them out, reinstalled everything, NOW she runs nice! Idles good, and as quiet under the hood as expected.
Thanks for the reply!
@@TFYS-QA yikes! Well that would do it! Makes a hell of a noise doesn’t it? 😂
Does the phenolic spacer you had in the video replace the base plate gasket?
No. Absolutely not. Need a gasket on both sides.
What do you think about installing a AFR
Gauge to help with tuning ?
I have a complete setup that you explained including a return line to keep unused fuel moving . To help with heat soak .
Do you have any setup or tuning tips on this .
AFR gauge
One video I have planned for a few months from now when it gets warmer is how to tune with an AFR. I absolutely recommend one. Once you have one and get used to the feedback it gives, you’ll never go back to tuning a carburetor any other way.
Thanks looking forward to tips and tuning.
Thank you for the tips. I just grounded my choke to the choke screw, is that ok? Would you cut out the fin and a dual plane intake? If so what changes should me made to the carb. AVS2 650cfm
It’s not my first option, but if the choke ever starts not operating correctly, change the ground location to something better. And no, absolutely don’t cut the intake divider. It’s how those cylinders are assured the correct distribution.
Well I just typed a whole paragraph to tell you what i did and now it's gone.. When I get the patience to type it again I will send it to you.
I have a AVS2 carburetor on a 383 stroker. Erratic idle and shakes pretty knarly, timing is correct for what I can tell and vacuum advance is ported. I disconnected the regulator completely and it shakes less but not completely nice and smooth. I was wondering if there's something idk about edelbrocks that can cause these issues with fuel delivery. Fuel pressure is at 4 psi
What is the timing set to? What intake are you using? Have you tried bumping up the pressure to where it should operate (4.5-6 PSI)? Start at 6. Tell me about your fuel filters. What micron size on each and when was the last time you changed them?
@@MuscleCarSolutions micron size, no idea, but for sure it's not restricted and it's brand new. I can blow thru it fine. Timing is around 10° BTDC, I adjusted it to what it runs best at (I Feel) but it hasn't really changed how it shakes. Can't set the regulator to anything, I took it out and it slightly improved it so left it out. However it didn't change the pressure, maybe just volume? Using a Weiand vortec style intake manifold. Using a 4-7 psi dual fuel universal pump. I tried changing pumps, but nothing. Tried changing filters, nothing. I took the regulator out, and it shook less, but still erratic.
@@theofficial_shagginwagon5915 you have a vacuum leak.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I suspected that so I sprayed around with carb cleaner, someone told me that it has to be internal because it didn't pick up idle when sprayed. Vortec manifolds are notorious for internal vacuum leaks
@@theofficial_shagginwagon5915 any of those dual pattern intakes suffer from that. Edelbrock 2732 will fix it.
after 1 year of constantly tearing into my 600 edelbrock because of reversion thinking it was trash and constantly lowering pressure and float level turns out i had some misfiring plugs at idle causing it, ran great above idle couldn't hear it at idle in exhaust or by pulling wires was a little hard to find it will always be worse on single plane manifolds than dual plane imo.
Does the seal on the accel pump plunger become worn over time?
It can but in all honesty, it rarely is ever and issue.
A fuse protects the wire in the event of a short.
What about the accelerator pump do I have to buy a whole rebuild kit or can I buy it separately?
You can buy the entire assembly separately if that’s what you need.
Hi fist time watcher 👋
I have a 350 with a 608 Edelbrock, I have a stock Carter fuel pump I recently installed...
It ran great for about a week then sputtering like crazy difficult trying to start...
Never had a fuel regulator but I'll be checking into it this weekend I did purchase a fuel pressure gauge, I was unsure if the fuel pump was actually pumping fuel so I disconnected it from the carburetor and stuck it in a clear bottle and boy it filled that bottle up in a matter of seconds,
Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to work
Yup. That’s exactly what it does. The regulator will control that flow when you set it to the pressure you want the carburetor to see.
I got a avs edelbrock carb and it floods number 8 cylinder to the point it want run on that cylinder st idle it’s a new carb add my thoughts fuel pressure is 5.5
@@markbolin2854 something isn’t right. Start with the basics first. Dial back the pressure to 4psi and see what the results are. Now would be a good time to pop the top off and see if you’ve got garbage in the needle and seats and the float bowls. Remove the idle mixture screws and blow through them with some carb cleaner. Take the primary boosters off and same thing. Really blow through them and through the main body. Verify you’re getting spark to the #8 plug.
Easy way to tune these pull it off and put a good holley on
That’s the typical response from the non car guys.
Are there two size accelerator pumps for the 1406? The one in my Edelbrock rebuild kit is smaller than the one in my carb.
3 different types depending on model. Each has different strength springs.
Had vac leak in hole under electric choke.. brand new 800cfm.. plugged it and no issues now
The hole under the electric choke when sealed is not a vacuum leak. It’s designed to cool the choke as the constant power running to it will heat the coil and it needs to be cooled down. Plugging that hole will destroy the choke housing. You’ll know when when it’s a ball of molten goo on your manifold or worse.
On your fuel regulator I saw some one on a video saying having it before the fuel enters the carb is wrong that it should be setup at the end of the line with a fuel return what do you think about that?
Yes, you can run the regulator after the throttle body or fuel rails. It’s a good option.
I have a question. I have a vacuum leak by the passenger side near we're it bolts to the intake. I ordered the steel plate and two new gaskets and still has a vacuum leak. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks for any Help
What intake? What carb?
Eldelblock intake with a 1405 eldelblock carburetor
@@carlball8590 what Edelbrock intake?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I will check tomorrow
I will check the intake size tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for getting back to me and helping
I have an Edelbrock AVS carb on an LS. When I bought the truck it was flooded every time I started it hot. I have taken the carb apart and cleaned everything with spray carb cleaner, replaced everything in the rebuild kit including the needle and seat. Adjusted the floats to the drill bit as instructed. Reassembled and still having the same issue. Engine off, electric fuel pump running at 4 psi, there is fuel coming out of the Venturi boosters. Is there anything specific to check when I pull it back apart? Thanks
Well you’ve got an over pressure situation or something is hanging open that needle and seat. What regulator are you using?
I did not install it so I am not sure of the exact brand but it looks like a Summit SUM-G3032B and it has a Summit in line fuel pressure gauge at the inlet of the carburetor. It was up around 5 psi and I adjusted it down to 4 psi. Fuel pump running, Engine running or not. Pressure drops to zero after shutting the in tank fuel pump off. It has an in line fuel filter between the pump and the regulator. New fuel line between the regulator and the carburetor. I thought about putting another fuel filter after the regular.
@@HoosierTruckRally it’s really hard to stay then. It could be an EFI pump that has a much higher flow rate (which means higher pressure) and there are regulators designed to lower that rate down from the high EFI side down to what a carburetor can handle. I’m not a fan of the summit brand name stuff. It’s typically a bad copy of a name brand and the quality is sometimes questionable. Maybe verify what pump is being used and then determine what the regulator is and see if they are compatible. Maybe that’s your pressure issue.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so you are saying the pressure could still be to high even though the gauge is reading 4 psi? That could explain some things. Should I get a regulator with a return on it? Would that help the pump since it would not be dead headed? Thanks for the information.
@@HoosierTruckRally depends. If you’re ok running a return line, it’s generally not a bad thing. Gauge could be reading wrong. Wouldn’t be the first time that happened.
What is a for sure symptom of too big of accelerator pump squirters being too big? At high altitude such as 5000 feet, should I go smaller accelerator squirters? I have a pretty healthy built 351m punched 60 over and full roller valvetrain with a Howards Rattler cam. Still have stock exhaust unfortunately for now. Pistons are flat top zero deck forged with 2v cleveland heads. Port matched intake. Weiland 8010 4v intake and a 1411 carb.
The general rule of thumb is go 2% leaner for every 1500 foot of elevation gained. I did a video on this topic to fully explain it.
Have you tried putting the excelerator pump adjustment in the middle hole? If it hesitate’s of the crack of the throttle your not getting enough fuel
That sounds like a pretty healthy build
@@jasoneardley2202 yes
@@jasoneardley2202 thank you. Its in a 78 F250 2x4 long box with C6 and 1800 stall 3.73 gears
What fuel pressure regulator do you recommend?
Check out my muscle car fuel system video. I have a few listed in the description.
Eldobrock 1406-1906 doesn’t have a bleeder or idle screw (the big one) on the front how do I set the idle rpm?
@@532wizards idle RPM is adjusted with the idle speed screw. Yours is missing?
I love these carburetors but I only have the one issue every time I come to a stop after I’m driving the car for a while and it’s nice and hot the car dies out at a stop I literally have to hold the gas and the break at the same time just to keep it on when I’m stopped at a light or put it in neutral every time..
Heat soak!
My son helped me out on a F-600 on getting it running, I believe it's a 351 industrial engine.
Anyway I finally got it to start this morning and it's chugging, trying to accelerate but it's having a tough time. Could the carburetor be loading up??
Any help is appreciated, thank you
Way too many things that it could be. Start with all the basics. Timing, ignition system, fuel system. Get those right first, then look at the carburetor.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you!
I have dual 1404 carbs on a 396 Chevy, overnite the fue drains out and I have to pour gas in the carbs to start, after that it starts and runs well all day ?
If the carbs are bolted directly to the intake, the ethanol is boiling off and taking the gas right along with it. Common issue with ethanol added fuels.
I added 1" aluminum spacers and 1/2" wood spacers about two weeks ago, that's when this problem started, I started the car last night and ran for 2 minutes so no heat, shut off and let sit overnight and carbs are dry this morning ?@@MuscleCarSolutions
I can run the engine for 2 minutes then shut down and the next day it won't start until I add gas into the carbs, where can the gas leak to overnite ? Not a heat issue.@@MuscleCarSolutions
@@John-m2t4x well there’s something catastrophically wrong then. Or it’s a heat issue……….
GOOD ADVISE
Question; I have a 440 with 2 1960 500s just rebuilt them, car makes 5 inches of vacuum,have 5 psi springs, have 6 psi and a new mechanical fuel pump, floats are set with 1/2 inch bit I'm in phoenix.
car surges with it in drive.
sprayed base and intake no leaks visible. changed jets to 90s runs between 12.5 and 13, on my o2s
timing is set on point. thanks for anymore help
What is your initial timing set at?
@@MuscleCarSolutions 15 full at 40
Where can you get the original carb
If I push my choke closed after the engine is warmed up, should the engine die. Mine keeps running, is that normal? I have an edelbrock 1906.
I have the edelbrock avs2 on my 84 Monte Carlo and I have to keep kicking down the idle. The idle will be high on startup then I have to kick it down but when I race the engine at anytime, even after it has warmed up it will be stuck back in high idle and I have to kick it down again. It does it when its parked and even when I am driving and moving. What would be the cause? Thank you!
You have something that is binding the fast idle cam. Check the link arms, throttle linkage, any interference with spacers/gaskets.
I have a edlebrock avs2 650 that will only start if I prime it first , any idea ? Carburetor is new thanks Steve
Covered that on a few videos. Most likely it’s heat soak that’s boiling the ethanol out of the carb. What are you floats set to? Your fuel system configuration is also critical. We can talk about what your pressure regulator is set to later. I have a video on heat soak if you’d like to check that out.
@@MuscleCarSolutions the set up is on a 1987 chevy truck that was originally tbi , my dad bought the truck new and I have been rebuilding the truck completely the engine is a fresh rebuild with a mild rv cam ( how the builder explained it ) the truck has dual tanks that I have replaced tanks and just recently replaced the switch valve on the frame which caused problems because it was blocking the return and caused the pressure to go extremely high so after repairs it had caused issues for the carburetor so I had someone repair the carburetor he found a float with fuel in it so they were replaced, just wondering if you might could help , plugs don't look terribly and oil doesn't seem to full of fuel it was replaced after I fixed the sector valve but not since carburetor repairs just put it on yesterday Thanks very much for the help Steve
Here a question for you when I get in my car to start it I pump the gas a few times and it will start and then it will not sure I want to say backfire or sounds like a sneeze. There is no choke hooked up and after running it seems to be really rich and almost burn your eyes. I purchased the vehicle this why and would like some help figuring it out. It’s an Edelbrock carb
Go through all the initial set up checks. Ignition timing/system, reset distributor install. Fuel pressure/regulator adjustment, filters. Float adjustment. Needle and seat check. Set idle mixture and speed. Now you can start tuning.
My doctor told me I had to cut my carbs. Now, they leak! I'm going to check all this on my 1403 on a 283 4 spd. It seems to leak from both rear side screws and when you decel for a bit and then step on the throttle, it bogs sometimes. I haven't touched anything on it, yet. Yes, I'm starting with the fuel pressure.
Time to start tuning (after you get the fuel system set up)!
I'm getting fuel to the carburetor just not squirting out what's the problem
Hard to say. Check the pump cup. Remove the nozzle and see if you can run some small wire (22 g) through to see if there’s blockage. Spray some carb cleaner through the entire system. It’s not uncommon to get garbage in a carburetor. Especially with ethanol additive fuels.
Which brand fpr do you recommend?
Really depends on the situation and what type you need. Then we can decide on a brand.
@@MuscleCarSolutions old tired 300 hp chevy crate engine. Don't drive it much. When I do its work and back. Have seen some carb issues from too much pressure. Didn't realize this until just now watching your video.
My 1994 454 big block RV ,jerks when driving over 65 mph,Isidra carb problem?
Could be a number of things. Lean condition could do that. So could timing.
Hey thank you for your videos!
I am riding my 1953 chevy 210
With an 292chevy inline six with a 1403 500cfm carburetor.
My pump brings around 3 psi.
My air / fuel is between 13 and 14:1.
My idle is perfect.
Now my question is why is my car not running more than 3500 rpm?
Can you help me? Maybe im just dumb or my fuel pressure ist to low?
Well it might be the pressure and volume isn’t enough to keep up. I never go below 4.5psi on these carbs. But if you’re not able to get past 3500, I’d be looking at the distributor.
Regarding the electric choke on my avs2. Im noticing it does not kickdown easily after about 3 1/2 minutes of warm up time. Before i light touch on the pedal will bring it down but now it seems i have to press the pedal harder to kickdown. Any insight would be appreciated. Also note if tried clearing an cleaning linkages and check for binding. Currently at 2 1/2 notches on the lean side from factory. Thanks
That’s completely normal. It’s an electric choke, not an automatic choke. If you’re experiencing some binding, generally I start on the opposite side and look at the fast idle cam and linkage. Seems to be where most commonly get a little tweaked.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks good to now its normal and nothing serious. Ill check again i notice any binding an keep that in mind. If you don't mind me asking what is the average time a electric choke should run before needing to be turned off?
@@ivanr5436 too many variables! Here in the mid south where a cold winter morning is generally in the 30-40 degree range? Couple minutes usually. But they don’t have an on/off switch. They operate when key on power goes to them (if wired correctly). Colder climates I’m sure it’s quite a bit longer, but it’s been quite a few years where I was in a colder climate.
What is a good budget regulator with a gauge ? The good ones are 200+
I listed a few in the description. I’m always hesitant to suggest the really cheap ones as the regulators are very inaccurate and they rarely hold an adjustment.
I have a edelbrock 1405 600cfm manual choke (new for this build)on 350sbc with mild cam 9.5to1 compression accel hei timed at 10degrees advanced initial timing and 30 degrees max advance( timing is on low side for pump gas) . I have fuel pressure regulator set at 5 psi. Engine runs great at idle and partial throttle but when the secondaries come in under load the engine acts as if its running out of fuel. I have tried 2 different mechanical fuel pumps and have replaced fuel lines and went as far as to plumb a fuel cell and fresh line and cant get away from this situation. Float level is set with 7/16" bit. What am I missing?????
Go to 6 psi on the regulator, put fresh plugs in an read them. Not sure what you meant by your initial timing but 30 on full advance isn’t enough. Unless you’re getting a lot of pinging, add more timing. Todays crappy ethanol fuel needs more timing. Have you tuned the carburetor yet? What secondary jets did you go with? What step up springs did you go with? If the answer is it hasn’t been tuned yet, then that’s your next step.
I just changed plugs and replaced valve seals. Plugs were loaded with sut. After I put it back together, I have a very accelerated idle. Adjusted valves but can't seem to reduce idle. 1406 edelbrock car. Please help
@@margaritosalasjr4731 reset idle speed and mixture. Verify timing.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the feedback and quick reply
Heres a question. Got a 1905 on a 300hp 350 build, in a 1 ton truck. And when i snap the throttle, it backfires, but ONLY out of the secondary. But the primary is fine. It also struggles with hills. Is it just lean?? will rods or jets fix that?
@@jessehasch8493 I have dozens of questions. Need to know a lot more details. The main questions would be, are you sure the 650 is the best size for that application?
@MuscleCarSolutions i have no reason to believe it would need any bigger than 650. The build is pretty mild. Heres more details. Its freshly rebuilt, only has 10 miles on it, it has performance heads, headers, edelbrock eps dual plane intake, its a 3 speed with a granny gear and the truck its in weighs like 10,000 pounds. It has 14 degrees initial timing. And it takes off and moves beautifully. But if i stab the throttle, it backfires. Whether its under load or not. Also it has the strongest springs in it because it makes like 17 inches at idle
@@jessehasch8493 max RPM?
@MuscleCarSolutions no idea. Dont want it going much above 6500 though, especially during break in miles. But anything past 1st gear it struggles to accelerate under any more than half throttle. It accelerates easier with LESS throttle. Which makes me think lean. But of course id like your opinion. Are you under the impression the carb is too small?
@@jessehasch8493 too big. But if the cam is spec’ed for higher rpm, then maybe. But a granny gear trans and a 10,000 lb truck needs low end torque. I’m assuming that’s how you built the engine. Typically those applications operate well under 4500 rpm. If yours falls outside of that, then maybe it’s not what’s fighting you.
I have the Edlebrock dual quad set up. All new. Rear carb works good. Front carb backfires thru carb no matter what progressive linkage I use. Any help?
1959 Cadillac how to tune carburetor for use with non-ethanol gas?
@@532wizards what carburetor?
I have got a stead 6 psi with a mechanical pump. Is this acceptable for the edelbrock?
It’s a good starting point, yes. A regulator will allow you to adjust that pressure if the carb wants less to operate at its best.
Can you please help?… I have no vacuum on manifold vacuum at idle but it raises with rpm
What port do you have this hooked up to?
My hubby found that this carb. Runs better on a divided intake than an open one. Its sensitive to vacuum. Also every new one he has checked,
The floats were off ! Run a thick gasket under the carb. To keep vapor lock
In check .
Every carburetor needs the floats reset. Bouncing around in a UPS truck doesn’t do them any good.
My Carb on my 69 mustang. It keep stalling right after I start it. It idles high even after adjusting it. Need your help.
If you look in my two minute tech series I did a video on high idle issues. Check that video out and see if it gives you some direction on what to check.
How to improve restarting condition after about 5 min? Runs good but hard start need wide open petal to start.
You can watch the video I did on heat soak. Might give you a few things to try including fuel pressure and float heights. Without more info I really can’t make any other suggestions.
I’ve got an issue I wanted to see if you have heard of. I think I have a vacuum leak, I’ve put a new carb, fuel pump, throttle cable, etc. now every time I put the car into gear it revs all the way to redline! It burns out and acts like the throttle is stuck. I know the linkage and carb is fine. I’ve checked everything! The only thing Left I can think of is my brake booster. I just bought a new one to replace it. Have you ever heard of that?!?
Sure sounds like the throttle is stuck. Return spring hung up on something?
I have had to many elderbrock 1406 on 20+ or my cars and never had the problem I am having now. It will not cold start engine what so ever no mater where I put timing. A quick spray of starter fluid fires right up runs outstanding like all the others in the past and when warm or sits less then a day it will fire right up but as soon as it sits over night boom will not fire engine unless it gets a starter fluid kick. On start up fuel pressure hits 6 psi. I pulled apart four or five times cleaning resetting floats looking for anything that looks suspicious have not found anything. Would you happen to have a idea what I should be checking to fix?
Maybe stupid simple reply; mine does this aftera few days if sitting but will start eventually after painful amount of cranking. I suspect the fuel evaporates out of get bowls completely. My rule of thumb is I can expect this if my glass fuel filter before the carb is dry, it will be dry in the carb too
awesome. more great info. keep it up!
Thank you sir! Hope all is still going well with your LS swap C10!
How do i enrichen the transfer slot circuit?
I have been fighting a off idle lean rolling into part throttle. 1906 avs2. I have tried the next level up on the tunning chart (12) with little help. Engine: 350 L31vortec new crate engine, bone stock with low rise intake. Truck: 87 chevy k30- 8000lbs 4 speed. Very stock..
Timing 11' med spring on the advance. Afr in the cab. Idle screw only .5 turns out for 12.5 AFR. idle speed 850 no vacuum showing on ported side. Seems to run out of fuel before step-up springs can enrichen. Silver springs (Heavy)
Top hole on Acc pump, 33 pump nozzle. Heavy spring acc pump upgrade. Any ideas? Cruise is 13.5 at 60mph, touch the pedal jumps to 15-16.
Sounds a lot like a vacuum leak to me. Spreadbore intake with an adapter?
@@MuscleCarSolutions no.
Having trouble with idle .electric choke don't seem to be helping during warm up . Strong ordor of fuel and trouble keeping it running until engine has reached operating. temperature. Begins to idle ok until I drop it into drive or reverse then engine will stall out . Its has a new 750 cfm eldebrock card on 400ci Pontiac with ram air 3 can by elgin . Timing is in spec. Engine is rebuilt , no vacuum leaks as far as I can tell . Although it feels like a Vacuum leak. Car runs very good down the road but idle sucks ! Unless, its in neutral, then it idles fine ,after it has warmed up . Soon as it is in gear , it wants to shut off . What can I do to fix it 😂
Tell me what timing in spec means. What’s the number? What is the duration on the cam?
I've got a problem where the car will stall out if you do a quick turn when off the throttle. Say a u turn or pulling quickly into a parking spot. It doesn't do it under straight line braking. It feels like it over fuels on a quick turn as when I go to restart it takes quite a few seconds to re fire. It ok on a slow turn but get a little aggressive and it stalls out. I've checked the float levels and the needle and seats. Ignition timing is good. I'm stumped ??
Got a 350 vortex heads 1906 carb. It will hesitate when you floor it at 55. What r my options. I’ve tried adjusting the accelerator pump linkage and neither hole makes a difference. Any help would be much appreciated
What step up springs are you using?
Hey there, anyone who has knowledge. I am having a miss while giving throttle,in park with no load. It sputters and Boggs down , sometime it dies. Engine has good even compression. Brand new plugs, wires and distributor. I replaced the whole ignition system three times. So I highly doubt that’s the issue.
Car runs perfectly fine at idle 20 inches of vacuum but as soon as the throttle opens 15-20% that’s it. Vacuum drops down. And the problem starts.
I overhauled a 1405 and 1406 I see no difference between both of them. Fuel pump also has been changed multiple times. At this point, I’m wondering if it’fuel starvation or something else. Any ideas for me?
Anything over 3.5 lbs per sq. Inch it floods . My Edelbrock mod. 1406 has been rebuilt including new needle and seat ! Still floods over 3.5 lbs/ sq. In.
Keep looking! You’ve got a bad float, garbage in the seats or your pressure regulator or gauge is incorrect. Those are the most common. Keep digging!
Thank you for the video.
I have a big problem with my 500cfm Carb. I runs over the last 5 yeaes very well, but after the car stands for 6 months it has no idle. I rebuild the carb with a set, but it did not work. On higher rpm it works and I can drive, but stopping the car the engine dies.
For a test I change the edelbrock carb from my Sons car, and with these carb it runs perfect. So there is no Problem with the vaccum lines (which I have renewed) or the fuel or the ignition. It must be a Problem with my carb inside.
Have you any idea?
Thanks 😊
Difficult to say. If you out on another carburetor and it works, then you’ve got more cleaning to do on the first carb or some investigating to do as to why it won’t idle.
I have a question, I have a new avs2 I have went threw it trying to tune it , I am not a carburetor guy and have never ran a Edelbrock until now, anyway it runs really rich no matter what I do,. The tuning screws where you turn it all the way in until it starts sputtering then back them back out, the one on the right makes no difference I can run it all the way in and it makes no difference, any help will be much appreciated..
Same issue here but the drivers side.
Clogged Idle circuit or damaged casting.
I've got an Edelbrock 4150 on a mild built 460 ci engine. My problem is that this engine is cold blooded and requires the choke to be fully closed at initial start-up. This Edelbrock choke is adjusted to the point that the choke wants to close, but for some reason it seems to be sticking in the open position, even after depressing the gas pedal to the floor. If I pull the air cleaner housing off and barely touch the choke linkage, it will slap the choke closed. I've lubed the linkage to no avail. Do you have any idea why this may be happening? TIA for any input you may have.
I’m sure you’re not talking about the Edelbrock VRS-4150 but a performer or AVS carburetor. They have a choke, the race carburetor does not. Assuming this is also an electric choke carb. Make sure you have the cap on correctly so it hooks the rod that closes and allows open the choke. I’d start there. The linkages don’t require any lubrication, only to be installed properly. Might also verify that as well when you take the choke housing off to reset it.
I’ll be working on the fuel system tomorrow
I have a problem with my edelbrock 650 avs2. My vacuum in gear is around 12"hg, in neutral 14" hg. So i use the orange step up springs. Problem is att light load vacuum are around 15-18 hg. So im getting a Leander spot thats makes a smal pinging. Dont know how to solve the problem. If I use 7hg spring, i have fluktation when in gear.
How can i solve the problem?
Metering rods.
i have an Edelbrock 1405 with a lean condition on right side. start with fuel pressure 7 psi. when engine running and rocking the accelerator pump it pushes less fuel out the right port. also when past this section there is less fuel going through the main jet to fuel the right side. both floats are set the same and will float in fluid. i have had it apart to clean with carburetor cleaner and forced air. also cleaned fuel filters attached to needle valve. i didnt change internal gasket cause i didnt see a tear but could this cause my lean condition on right side?
Could. It’s an expense, but having a dual WBO2 would let you monitor each side and see how it’s affecting your engine in different conditions. It’s kind of weird though on the accelerator pump. I did a video where we milled down the front of a carburetor and the passage that feeds the nozzle is the same all the way up to it. So unless it’s clogged at the nozzle, it’s not a left/right specific issue.
where are you located ?
I’m in the US.
I work at a carburetor rebuild shop and tunning engines in AZ. LOTS of problems w newer Edelbrock chokes. Needing to replace the thermostat right out of the box.
And the AVS models can never get rid of the part throttle sag. Many of hours, of tunning. Different engines and set ups. Also have seen out of box partially blocked passages in the primary booster's as well.
Haven’t run into that at all. The choke mechanisms have worked perfectly on the new carbs. Wonder why you’re experiencing ones that don’t work? Tuning hasn’t been difficult. The annular boosters have made it very easy and very quick. The older nozzle style boosters have generally taken a bit longer but I haven’t had any problems.
my 350 v8 wont firing. changed ignition distributor, coil, module and rotor. doesnt help.
Break out the multimeter and start testing!
Fuel pump diaphragm on Manuel pump will leak in to engine seen that also
That’s a fuel pump issue. Not a carburetor issue.
My pistons were the step up spring connect to they get stuck the pistons they wont go up and down sometimes
@@tedslife7086 how do you know they aren’t going up or down?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Turn the holding plate half way start the car
@@MuscleCarSolutions I sand them down with 1500 and they now move freely
@@tedslife7086 so engine running and they’re all the way down? That’s normal. When vacuum drops, the spring releases at the point that it’s rated to. That’s what starts full flow of the main metering circuit.
@@MuscleCarSolutions up
all edelbrocks i put on need 4lbs . six floods em. they sell regulators at advance and autozone, its a must!!!!! on these carbs
You have some other issue then. They handle 6psi just fine.
Wondered about the ticking.
My Avs 2 has been nothing but a headache since letting a master mechanic swear he could get it running better..
Less than 1000 miles & its coming apart. Thanks to genious know it all.
I'll get it right. Thanks.
The good news is unless they did some permanent modifications, it can be put right back to its factory calibration and you can start over.
Do you know if know if there is any difference in between the stock accelerator pump with the reddish orange gasket and the replacement pump part number 1470. The replacement has a blue gasket. The stock pump looks to have more travel then the replacement. Does this have much of an effect if I'm seeing it right?
They’re both rated to work with E15 fuel. Other than the material, I don’t know that there’s any real difference.
Springs are different on the later ones. Black pumps with orange cups come in larger CFM carbs with stronger spring. Blue cups with white pumps come in smaller CFM.
My air fuel screws don't make a difference at all by adjusting edelbrock 600
You’re into the transfer slots.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks