How to Install Edelbrock Electric Choke Kit
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Installing an electric choke kit on the 1412 Edelbrock carburetor for the big block Chevelle. We'll go step by step and show the proper set up and how to make the initial adjustment. Some tips and tricks and one thing to look out for!
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this is great! i miss my old ford van. I learned so much working on everything the most fun part was learning the carb. i haven't had it for years and watching this is a great refresher. thank you sir.
I finally got her done. My particular model of 1405 did not have the vacuum port in it. After talking to Edelbrock, I was confident to drill it out myself and just finished up installing the carb watching along with your very helpful video. Thanks so much for the content. I couldn’t have done it without you!
You did all the work! Nice job! 👍🏁
The sputter after startup is my issue as well. Gonna mess with the fast idle screw and see if that solves the issue. Thanks 🤘🤘
HEY! THANK you so much for the video. I am hoping you still monitor this video - I just dropped a GM Performance crate motor into a '67 Chevy Camaro. Engine and transmission are basically 'new'. Since the car sat for about 6-8 months, I decided it was prudent to rebuild the carb also. I have an Edelbrock 1406 with the factory installed electric choke. After watching your videos I was able to fully rebuild the carb - new float needles and screens, left the jets alone as they were clean and working, new gaskets, etc. Car runs really well - not perfect, I still need to learn how to do the air fuel screws but its REALLY close. HOWEVER - after the rebuild, my high idle assembly is really 'free' moving...meaning it doesn't appear to be connected to anything, even though all the assemblies and control arms are back together. The issue I am having is that when I accelerate hard or build acceleration gradually - basically, when I am at a higher throttle position - when I let off the gas, the engine doesn't drop RPM's at all. It stays at high throttle - the pedal and throttle releases, I have duplicated this standing next to the car and manually operating the throttle. The RPM's stay high until I 'pop' the pedal and the throttle and then it reacts normally (not always but most of the time) and starts to throttle down.
What adjustment did I not get correct that would cause this? I am sure that its something I did with the carb - the throttle return spring is operating normally. I believe its something internally with the electric choke, or possibly the linkage to the high idle? WOULD LOVE ANY ADVICE....and I saw you link about - beer coming with to you with solution. LOL....thanks.
Could be the choke that’s hanging the fast idle open. When it’s idling high, see where the fast idle is. Then when you crack the throttle if it drops off. Make sure the rod connecting the fast idle to the electric choke rod is on correctly. That’s where I’d start if you think the return spring is working well.
On my asv2 with it warm choke open my choke housing out of the small port on the bottom never stops sucking vacuum is that normal
@markjakubowicz2728 completely. It’s the cooling mechanism for the choke. That small amount of additional air is accounted for in the tune.
On the 1406 rebuild I figured out everything except figure 4 on the adjustment data sheet, in the 1477 kit,( the electric choke piston linkage), other than that everything went great, I also set the float level with the 1/2 drill bit, I am in Eastern Washington it's hot in the summer, I can always reset them if I have problems
What about the electric choke piston linkage ,figure 4 in the rebuild directions, and what is your name
Hey Bone Head, got the carb on have a video will load it Sunday morning
the 12v electric choke is not ground activated, you hook the ground directly to chassis ground. That is why you need to hook it to a 12v "switched" source, which heats up the coil spring , causing the spring to release pressure and then the vacuum piston pulls on the choke linkage to open, or de -activate the choke. If you loose 12v power, the choke will remain on . If you supply "constant" 12v (battery voltage) the choke will always be off as soon as vacuum is applied. right?
Yes, the ground wire for the choke is connected to the negative side of the battery through the chassis ground. You hook it to switched 12V so that when you start your car, the choke begins to start opening as the current heats up the bimetallic spring. The vacuum of the engine only pulls the choke open slightly when the engine first fires as the choke only needs to be fully closed for the initial start until the engine lights.
In theory if you lose power to your choke whilst driving, you won't notice it for a while as the engine heat helps keep it open but it will eventually close enough that the engine might jump back on the fast idle circuit (controlled by the choke) and be running way too rich as the choke begins to close.
On the flip side of the coin, if you power the choke with 12V it will fully open eventually even without engine vacuum- so if you take too long to start your engine the choke will fully open and starting the engine cold will be a pain.
Hope this made sense.
thanks! i'm geting confuse about how the choke is working. question is with an electric choke do we have to pump the gas pedal before ignition? the pumping seems to disengage the choke, i mean it's opening a little bit the plate. thansk and keep the good work.
Yes you should pump the pedal twice is what I do to not only set the choke but it gives the engine 2 primer shots of fuel from the accelerator pump nozzles to help start the engine especially if it's cold outside. To me it sounds like you have the choke set too lean and when you pump the gas pedal it's opening up the choke so try to turn the choke to the right so it's closing the choke plate further . There are notches in the casting so mark where it was set before with a permanent marker then loosen the 3 torx bit screws and turn the black adjuster to the right or clock wise and look where the notch on the adjuster is and mark that spot and lock the screws down . If it's still doing the same shut the engine off and readjust more . I usually start with turning the adjuster all the way to the left on the housing marks then slowly turn it to the right where the marker on the black adjuster is right in the middle which will be a longer mark if you look closely then lock the screws down and start it and see how it acts it might take a couple adjustments before you get it right but try to do these adjustments before the spring heats up to much or the engine gets warm because both will throw off the choke adjustment because of the heat . Once the choke seems to be working like it should you might have to adjust the high speed idle for the choke so it's not too fast or slow but that has to be done when the engine is off and the choke set by opening the throttle so the choke sets on the high speed idle cam that's on the right side if the carburetor. The adjustment screw is on the bottom and it's kind of hard to get at so I take the throttle return spring off then open the throttle fully so you can see the idle screw and I use a long thin straight blade screw driver to make the adjustment then put the throttle return spring back on and set the choke again to see how the high speed idle is and it if needs more tweaking or not .
Thanks for this complete and crystal clear explanation!. @@peteloomis8456
Hey I just found your channel because I was curious how an electronic choke installed on my 1407 edelbrock and I see that your probably about 20 minutes from me. I'm actually looking for help tuning the Demon Carb on my Charger and I would love to collaborate with you on a video on getting it tuned right.
First thing to do is make sure your timing is set correctly then tune the mixture screws in until it stumbles or slows down then go the opposite direction until it does the same then go between as close as you can . I listen to the engines idle where it idles the highest then turn the mixture screws out a 8th of a turn rich . If you have a vacuum gauge you can use that to set your idle mix screws and it can also be used to set ignition timing if you don't have a timing light . I usually set my timing by ear and then take it for a drive when it's fully warmed up to see if it pings on hard acceleration . If it's got a big lumpy cam in the engine try to run as much advance on your timing as you can especially if the cam has a lot of duration and has a wide LSA lobe separation angle because by doing this it will make the engine more responsive and it helps bring back more low end torque that's lost on the low end because with a lot of duration compression actually bleeds down some then comes back as rpm is increased . Take it out and drive it normally after the adjustments are made and put some miles on it then come home and let the engine cool down and pull the plugs to see what they look like to make sure that the carburetor isn't jetted too lean or rich . When I build engines I take them to a guy I know that has a engine Dyno and I have him set the engine up and then they start and run the engine up to temperature the and look for any oil or coolant leaks then they shut the engine down to let it cool off and they do this a couple times heat synching the engine. Once that's done they then make the first pull on the Dyno and check the egt exhaust gas temperatures for all 8 cylinders to see if the carburetor needs to be jetted richer or leaner and once that's done they check timing again then start the pulling sessions and start to make changes to make the most HP and torque the engine can make . They can tell once the rings are fully seated in by looking at the Dyno sheet numbers and once that's done that's when they try to find as much power and torque the engine can make . It usually takes about 2-3 hours of Dyno time to get everything done from start to finish and one of the benefits of doing this is if the engine leaks oil or coolant or breaks because the engine wasn't built correctly it saves you time finding these problems on the Dyno rather than having to fix them in the vehicle or pulling the engine back out .
cleared up a lot of questions i had thanks
Glad you got something out of it!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Need your skills with an 82 vette. I'm here in Memphis. Could you send contacts to Drogers2@ur.com please. Thank you
Hi, when adjusting the choke to you need to put the gas pedal to the floor and hold it (full throttle) while adjusting the black choke cap? That is how edelbrock tech says to adjust it... I just bought an AVS2 and installed it on a 1979 corvette. It works great except for the electric choke. It's not as easy to adjust as a Q-Jet... Thank you
Thank you. I think I'm going to need to check for that leetle rubber washer... ☺
Had the same problem with that shaft bolt.. hopefully this stud remover that I bought will be small enough to take out
I’m getting ready to install a automatic choke on my 1407 edelbrock carb I don’t have the wiring done for the ignition switch how can I hook it up temporarily thank you
Is there a way to know if the electronic choke has gone bad? Can there be benefit to twisting the internal spring in the choke an extra turn if the tension feels weak?
So, I’ve got a Edelbrock version of a Carter AFB on my SBC which was just rebuilt with Vortec heads and intake manifold. It’s in a 1994 SeaRay. The mechanical choke won’t mate to the new manifold. I either add the electric choke or buy a new carb with the choke already on it for $300. Don’t care about the cost savings, so what do you recommend we do and what model electric choke would I need if we go that route?
This is a great video! I just took off my automatic choke and was wondering if I need to remove anything else before I start her back up? Or maybe do u have a video on removing it. I followed the red wire to the interior and saw the red wire next to a fuse. Should I just pull out the fuse or pull the wire? I can email you a picture of you have time. Thanks!
quick question, I have a 1964 Corvette that I've had for a couple of years. a previous owner installed a Performer carburetor with electric choke, and used the alternator for the 12v + (maybe at the field connector?). would the terminal of the ballast resistor that doesn't go to the distributor be a better option? this would have 12 volts only when the key is in the run/on position. thanks for sharing your knowledge and your videos.
@@gregzervoudakis the alternator is not a reliable source for the choke. You don’t want a circuit with a resistor. The choke needs a full 12v during its entire time in operation. If it drops, the choke can partially or fully close and you’ll not be able to engage the secondaries, low/no power, etc. Coil is the only other option worse than the alternator.
I really love this video. Its like a lecture from my professor. I want to get better at tuning a carb. Would you recommend buying an old carb to learn on? I wanted something to practice on, not necessarily put in the car but learn the nuts and bolts, springs etc
Very much appreciate that! I’d say jump right in on the carb you have. If the fuel system is right and the ignition system is right, you’ll be able to tune yourself out of any issues you come across. A good rebuild is where I’d start and there tons of videos to help you with the process. If you’ve got any questions, please ask! I’m glad to help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Appreciate it. Thanks!
good vid... and not full of commercials... thx... How fast does an electric choke on an eldebrck open?
Don’t blame the channel for the ads. RUclips places them. That’s how they earn their money and I get to upload videos for free. How quickly or slowly the choke opens depends on the engine and ambient temperature.
@@MuscleCarSolutions no i dont mind a few ads... its just many have started forcing tons of ads... yeah i was just wondering... an avg engine... or an example of yours like 1 minute 2 minutes... 5 minutes.
Couple minutes or less for me. I can see in a colder climate where that might be longer if you’re just sitting and idling.
Thanks! This was very helpful.
Nice! Glad it was useful to you.
Alls ya gotta do
Excellent video. I got 2 carbs on my boat. One of them will make the click sound when I manually full throttle it. The other one doesn't. Is the some adjustment on it?
I came here hoping you would discuss the choke piston linkage adjustment the rebuild kits recommends. It is also the first choke adjustment listed in my owner's manual. I have a #1406. Can you shed some light on what this adjustment does and if its necessary? It is not clear from the figure what it is they want done. Thanks.
Sooooo trying to isolate what was wrong with the Mustang, the only thing i couldn't be sure of was the needle and seat. They look good, but when i fired it up, I'm still way rich. So my neighbor let me borrow his 1406 (the same one that i made a short about the bent linkage) and the car didn't want to idel but it was definitely not pig rich like my 1905. Now im here trying to set the electric idle so i can drive the car and compare it to the 1905 whille i wait for the needle set to show up. Maybe ill make a vidoe comparing thr tow. But not while its 96° out lol
What’s your pressure set at?
@MuscleCarSolutions just shy of 6psi. For whatever reason I can't get the pressure constant at 5.5 it will drop to 4 when I try 5.5 and the car doesn't like that. Makes it sluggish. Maybe I need a new one or rebuild the regulator. It's a Holley Volumax.
@@BPattB something’s funky. Mechanical pump?
@MuscleCarSolutions yes it is. The car runs good with the old 1406. I'll put in the new neddle and seat on the 1905 when they show up. That's got to be the problem,,,,, I hope lol.
@BPattB make sure the floats are good while you’re waiting. Completely submerge in mineral spirits and let it sit for a few hours to make sure they don’t get fuel inside. Happens on occasion and would also cause the needle and seat to hang open and cause a rich condition.
Hey I was reading the comments and you said that the electric choke kit will work on a AVS 2 carb but edelbrock specifically says no it will not work and that a manual choke avs 2 carb will always be manual there is not kit to upgrade it.. I have a AVS 2 1905 carb manual choke and I would like to convert it.
Unfortunately no it will not. There is no conversion kit and as far as I know, no plans to offer one. The AVS is the issue. It was thought the 1478 kit would work but it will not.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok thanks!
At the bottom of the choke is a small hole,when running should that hole be sucking air or should i block it off
Do not block it off. It’s to keep the choke cool during operation.
What purpose does the little blue plastic piece that fits in the groove on the plate inside the electric choke body serve?
Great video! I just got a Edelbrock 1478 kit from an eBay store and noticed it had 2#s on the housing 170-1778 but all the ads I see only has the 1778 is this a knock off or just maybe old stock? Wish I could post pic here. Have you seen this?
Thanks
do you have a video of installing the choke pull off also? mine is missing on my exact carburetor
I have a 64 El Camino - I had to replace just the thermostat (and gasket) portion that meted a bit. Now that I replaced it and have the housing turned so that the choke plate is almost closed all the way my car is having trouble starting and staying on. Do I need tune the whole carb no that I've replaced the thermostat? I love your vids -- thanks for your help!!
Set the choke at two ticks lean so it opens up the choke plate a little. Shouldn’t be all the way closed. Thermostat won’t have any bearing on the running of the engine if that’s all you had replaced. Assuming everything was tuned and running well before you got into the cooling system. Thank you!
What happens if the choke gasket breaks do i need to buy a new one. I cant seem to find them
Buy a rebuild kit or call Edelbrock and they’ll send you one no charge.
@@MuscleCarSolutions nice thank you
Great video. I’m a newbie. Lol. Where do I connect my hot wire from my electric choke? I have a HEI distributor. Thank you
I ran it and a couple other accessories off the fusebox using a fuse adapter. You must use a fuse spot that is key on/ key off. You don't want constant power.
What would keep my choke from closing fully? Feels like my linkage is stiff and feels like the chokes not working. The notch on the electric choke is way off almostbhave to spin the choke one more turn to get it to engage the linkages
Have to check the fast idle side also. Sometimes it will get hung up a little there too. Partially in how it operates or perhaps it’s not aligned or adjusted correctly. If you’re rotating the choke housing that far, it’s another issue. That’s a small adjustment for lean/rich. Check the other side of the carb for the likely answer.
@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for your reply. I rebuilt it a couple months ago and got my truck up and running after a rebuilt motor but I'm half tempted to just buy a new one lol
Thank you for this detailed explanation of the carburetor Choke, which I followed in my old Nissan Jeep. After installing it, I did not feel any problem in operating the engine except that there is some smoke coming out with the exhaust before the engine warms up. Is this something normal? Greetings to you from Riyadh.
May have to adjust your carb to get used to the choke
If you can do a video convert this carburetor to manual choke of it came electric would be appreciated. Sadly the electric choke that came with mine was faulty and just stays wide open so I have to pop the hood and stand there holding it shut while the car warms up
Not understanding the comment. You want a video on how to convert an electric choke carb to manual choke?
Great video and great channel! I have a question, probably a bit in common with the previous comment by Laurens van Peperstraten. I am looking to install electric choke on my 1812s. 1813 had the option , but I can't find any kit for the conversion. Do you think it would be possible to install the 1478 kit?
thanks worked great
Hey Bone Head, I did a couple of videos on the Edelbrock carburetor, and did a shout out to you, hope you didn't mind
Really great informative video, but I noticed that my hot wire is missing from my carb, so I'll have to get a new one and hook it up, but where do I need to hook it up to? That part I'm still unsure on.
Nicholas Jones one of the most popular places is the fused hit wire going to the windshield wipers. It’s key on hot, so it’s what you want and not a constant hot. Any fused key on source will work.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the quick reply! I'll try that when I get a new wire.
Do you have to have that plate between the housing and the cap because I've seen several kits That are $60 to $70 cheaper and the only thing they appear to be missing is that little plate
The plate was discontinued years ago. Yes I still have a few but it’s not necessary.
@@MuscleCarSolutions 👍 thanks for the quick response. Just a fellow gearhead trying to save money where possible
@@b.m.4066 don’t blame ya. Every penny counts these days! I’d stick to the Edelbrock kit though. I can’t vouch for the cheaper kits out there but I will tell you some of them just flat out don’t fit and none of them work on the AVS2.
quick question, i have a carter 9600 marine, id rather not change the teflon coated shaft do i really need to use the one from the kit as theres not really a fast idle on the marine carb anyway?
Easy thing to do is verify the ends. Yes the fast idle side is important for the operation of the choke and it’s the fixed end of the rod. If you can make the choke side work and aren’t concerned about the additional rpm needed for warm up, you can try it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions its a marine carb tho there isnt even a fast idle screw or notches on the cam so really the fast idle is redundant on them right
What do you hook the hot wire to . May as well ask what do you hook em both too
Great video. Does the power always stay on? Does it get 12 volt from the key and always power present while running?
Yes.
I'm suddenly having a similar issue to another commenter (Smalley) although I have not been able to duplicate it standing next to the car. Intermittently, at lower RPM cruising or pulling up to or away from a stop light, my RMP's suddenly increase, far above what they would at fast idle during choke engagement. I can get it to stop by popping the throttle a couple of times. My car is a 4 speed, so I push the clutch in when this happens, but it's freaky scary. I disconnected the red lead to the choke housing and the issue has not repeated. Any thoughts about the cause or what I should do to fix? The carb is a new electric choke AVS2 650 on an SBC 350. Thanks!
Check the fast idle cam.
@@MuscleCarSolutions 10-4 Thanks
I see you answered my question down below
Great video. As always. I have converted my Avs2 carburetor from manual choke to electric. But now I found out that edelbrock says this can’t be done. Do you know why that is?
Hi Laurens! I am interrested to know how you made it
@@fabricegabrini7776 In my case I just switched the whole electric choke assembly of my 600cfm edelbrock with the mechanical choke assembly of my 650cfm avs 2 edelbrock. Everything fitted the same
Very detailed as always!
I recently overhauled a 1406 using a 1477 kit. Both before and after the rebuild, there was a terrible whistle of a vacuum leak coming from the piston inside of the choke body. The rebuild didn't help. Could the choke piston or cylinder wall be toast? Or is that supposed to allow blow-by? Starting to wonder if I need to throw a 1478 at it now.
Did you replace the seal between the main body and the choke body? Sometimes that will cause some noise if the little seal is not installed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Well, I thought I did. Just checked my leftovers from the 1477 kit and see the seal still sitting there. Looks like I better take the choke apart again!
Bingo!
I just swapped out my Holley 750 on my small block 350 4 the Edelbrock 650 avs2 carburetor.
I just installed it and wired the electric choke,and upon starting the truck it ran at high idle at 2500 rims. Can you edelbrock give me suggestions to what I need to adjust and in proper order. Thanks.
I could really use some advice.
Adjust the choke first. Then the fast idle screw (bottom screw) on the drivers side throttle linkage. Adjust both as needed.
I am actually trying to put an electric choke on my av2 as well!
did you end up using this (1478) electric choke kit as well?
@Troy41375 no. The 1478 will not work with the AVS2. Edelbrock does not offer an add on electric choke kit. You have to purchase the carb with the electric choke if you want one.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you!
Can this carburetor be installed without the electric choke and instead manual choke? I can run a wire from the boat ignition switch if needed but turning the switch to on usually makes the "annoying beeping" sound after 30 seconds so i don't want to use that as source to warm up the choke.
Both the Edelbrock marine carburetors have electric chokes.
I'm trying to put a manual choke on mine, will that do the same? I did notice the mounting screw holes are on the front of the carb though
great video thank you!
Cool! You’re very welcome.
11:33 what if my carburetor has no brass plug and it’s just solid? Do I just drill it out and is the whole back behind a bit of aluminum?
On what carburetor?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Edelbrock version of a Carter AFB. Basically an Edelbrock 1405.
@greggkathy1892 so is it an Edelbrock or basically an Edelbrock?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I thought I replied to this, but I can’t find it. When I had it rebuilt at vans electric in Indianapolis, they said it was an Edelbrock version of a Carter AFB.
@@greggkathy1892 I needed the clarification as the number of Chinese knock offs on the market make it extremely difficult to know that we’re talking about the same thing. Unfortunately your rebuilders comments don’t help. If it’s an Edelbrock regular finish carb it will have the part number and date code on the passengers side mounting pad. If it is indeed a 1405, yes it has the port needed for the choke.
You didn't say anything about the .026 homemade wire gage for the piston. About as clear as mud In the instruction sheet.
Thank you
Great video. Can you tell us about the open port on the choke canister? This is in the aluminum portion to the lower right of the black plastic piece when looking at the electric choke assembly. I thought it could be vacuum related since the tone changes when I place my finger over it. Thank you.
That vacuum port is to help keep the choke valve open when it’s fully warmed up. There is a piston in the choke body that references the vacuum from the carb.
Thank You! So, that remains open with no plug/cap, correct?
@@shawnpeters5837 yes. On a manual choke carb that port is plugged. When you add an electric choke kit to the carb, it’s removed so the choke can reference the venturi vacuum.
I adjusted my choke and at initial startup it was idling at 1400 rpm which I thought was good. When I came out and checked it it was idling at 2500 rpm how do I adjust the idle when the choke is on? Shouldn't it have idiled down after it was warm. As soon as I tapped the peddle it dropped down to a perfect 900 rpm
Other than that it runs perfectly fine all around.
Verify you have no vacuum leaks. You can adjust the choke idle screw to set the speed. It’s under the idle speed screw on the left/drivers side of the carb.
Hello! Do you have any used electric chokes for a 1405? I'm trying to save money. $100 is insane. I currently have no choke as my car came from AZ. Now in NC I need one badly. Or do you know anyone selling used parts?
The issue is the shaft. The hardware is designed to be installed and that’s it. Most of the time they twist off. Keeps from vibrating loose. $100 for an electric choke kit gets you what you need. Even if I could piece together a kit, it’s going to be close to that price.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Ok thanks for the reply.
After following along and installing an electric choke, I am concerned about two things- the choke plate no longer opens more than about halfway...and also, the screw on the bottom right side below the idle adjustment screw no longer makes any contact with the metal plate. I don't know what that screw is for, some sort of adjustment. Can you shed any light on this? I'd sure appreciate it!
I’m aiming you’re referring to the fast idle screw. It’s to allow you to set the idle speed when the choke is fully closed. If it’s not, then adjust it until it does and operates easily.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Wow, that's a cool adjustment to be able to make. I wish I could send you a photo on the fast idle side and see if you think something is off.
Behind the fast idle screw is the cold idle screw and it should be touching or barley touching is how mine was from factory too..
Thanks!
how important is the baffle plate? i have pulled 2 separate EDDY 1406 and 1409 that did not have the baffle plate.
They aren’t. Edelbrock removed them years ago from their kits and finished carburetors. It was a cost that wasn’t needed. Still occasionally find them but they aren’t in anything new.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks
My fast Idle cam had pivoted away from throttle-? I had a idle compensator added by mechanic for AC install. That doesn't work either. Do you cover that too?
Edelbrock makes a fast idle solenoid to regulate idle when a/c is on. It’s a pretty simple hookup into the power wire to your a/c compressor. If it’s not working, figure out what’s going wrong or take it to a better mechanic. This is one of the easiest things you can install.
Is the fast idle cam supposed to be pretty snug without any play ? Mine from the factory feels sloppy, rotates up and down just fine.it’s just moving side to side too much almost like it’s missing a washer ,so it’s not always sitting on the fast idle screw correctly. the screws tight that holds it in place. Any ideas?
There is no other washer that goes in between the cam and bushing. Some are a little looser than others. If yours isn’t riding on the fast idle set screw then yeah that’s a problem.
If I keep turning my choke cap the plate doesn’t close all the way it still leaves a gap, all it does when I tighten the choke cap is make it harder to push the choke back open, and it is also flooding when I try to start it again after it has warmed up because the choke is closed back up. Any ideas on how to fix this?
You’re wrapping the spring inside the cap up. Back it all the way off and take the cap off to make sure the spring isn’t damaged. Then start over on the adjustment.
I have. 750cfm for my 383 stroker. I was noticing that the idle was starting to creep up quite a bit and noticed that the choke plate was too far open. It doesn’t seem to want to return to the semi closed or idle position. Any ideas?
Bransoud4 what choke is on the carb?
I can't get the choke assembly to rotate, I loosened the 3 screws, but the black choke assembly won't budge ?
It should turn easily. Likely there is an issue with the spring inside. Remove the black cover and inspect. Might just need to be reset.
Just happen to me. I tapped the black rotating knob lightly with a hammer, then used channel locks lightly rotating. Freed right up.
Which wire goes where?
After seeing your video I notice my choke is missing the (baffle plate) that goes on before the gasket and chock.. do I need i
Uh... yeah!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks, will look for a replacement. Im always learning more, what does it do exactly.
@@JCsFluffyTail it’s to separate the two halves of the choke and the slot is there to guide the actuating arm for the piston. If you call Edelbrock customer service, and you ask nicely, they will send you one. BE PATIENT. I can tell you they are short staffed and doing the best they can so if you have to wait in hold for a few, please don’t take it out on those nice ladies who can help you solve the problem. Just ask for the choke baffle plate and they’ll mail you one. FYI, never call on a Monday. Wait till later in the week.
Will do, thank you,, i appreciate your help
I ordered one of these kits online and it didn't come with the baffle plate. The seller says that it's discontinued and unnecessary. Is that true? Any input is appreciated.
The seller is incorrect. The kit comes with a baffle plate. It’s part of the choke and is needed.
What kit do I need for the 1905
There isn’t one. Not on the air valve operated door carbs. The 1906 was made to accept it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks that's what I was afraid of...dang
Can i install electric choke without taking the carburetor off.
You could but why would you want to? It’s easier with the carb off.
Hello. My engine runs extremely rich. And hesitates at take off. And will die out. At start up choke is closed completely. Any suggestions?? Thank you very much. 1406 carb
Yup. All the usual steps. First determine if you have the right size carb. ruclips.net/video/Hy4s9B43YM0/видео.html
Then make sure your fuel system is set up properly. ruclips.net/video/s3bQ4IOPq_4/видео.html
Then start making the necessary adjustments. ruclips.net/video/9ovQVoxWwj0/видео.html
And start tuning using the charts in your instruction manual. ruclips.net/video/GFe3-Br_Z9w/видео.html
But initially start with timing before you work on the carb. Ignition issues with only make the tuning process impossible.
How much current does one of these electric chokes pull?
.5
Gee, this sounds like a whole Lotta hoopla.
I like hands on experience.
I think I'll just run the Ole under-dash cable
You can control a cable.
plus,
Less wiring= me is a happy man with a cleaner, less cluttery, engine bay!
Very informative video, well orchestrated. just not for me lol
That at the beauty of having a choice in how you want it to operate. There is no wrong answer!
will this kit work on a 1904 AVS2?
Yes it will.
why does it need vacuum?..
larry
Yes. It’s there to cool down the choke.
Will you please at the beginning of the videos Just tell us what we need to do and then if you want to explain it for an hour.
Do that after just a tip thank you.
Then you don’t learn anything. I don’t think this is going to be a good channel for you. Best of luck!
I came here to see how the choke rod is assembled for manual choke because the carburetor I bought (1404) seems to have the wrong pieces on the throttle end of the rod. For some reason, the author shows one piece, then skips to the rod being already inserted...that makes this video useless to me and anyone else who needs to see the pieces installed on the throttle end of the rod.
I guess I’m not following what you’re asking. The purpose of the video is how to install an electric choke, not how to install a manual choke.
I can’t get my cap to turn
The black choke housing? Remove it. Likely the spring is jacked and it’s locked it up.
Thank you ain’t looked at it yet , will tomorrow, the carb is about 6 months old drives 300 miles a day couple times a week old 85 f250 with a 1970 Windsor 351 , your video is a good one very well done
@@stickxxcummings much appreciated! Best of luck to you.
I seen cheep so i clicked on the video
You cut out some important steps and screwed me. Good video but you cut the exact piece I needed. I was soooo meticulously on what I watched…
😂😂 seems as though you’re the only one.
And here is why. Although your video is good and one of a kind. I watched over and over to figure out one part you cut out. (I’m not a mechanic). How did you put the rod back in and screw it back and what side the new rod catch was on. You cut to the rod in…. I snapped the screw just like you said… ugh my work truck. I have to drill the new rod and tap it.
@@dogriverbrewing so I told you not to over tighten it or the screw will snap, but it happened and that was me screwing you? I don’t know your limitations. That’s a judgement call on your end. Take it to someone to work on it for you. Or don’t. I’m sure that’s my fault too. 🤷
Tons of extraneous information. He doesn't even start the install until 7 minutes in.
Learning is hard. 😕
Talk to much. Get to the subject.
What hes talking about is the subject.