Hey thanks for this video and your channel in general! Just to let you know, if you're facing the rear element of the lens, if you look to the right of the brass infinity tab there is actually a screwed out hole where you can use one of the screws from the tabs and just screw it in there to hold the whole thing in place at infinity once you find it. This saves you using tape to hold the lens in place at infinity. You can see the hole to the right at the 4 minute mark in this video. You could even use a socket set screw/grub screw and leave it in there forever as a set and forget infinity mark if you're using single focus solution diopters :)
Thanks for taking the time to put this tutorial up. I did this today and after my 4th attempt - I seem to have a better image coming from my Kowa. For anyone doubtful about trying - I think it's worth a go, not terribly complex but as long as you follow the tutorial step by step it's hard to go wrong. Kudos.
Tito, thank you so much for this. Took my 16H from soft until f4 to fairly sharp at f2.8! A significant change. Some thoughts from my experience: 1) As others have mentioned, I also just loosened the screws and re-tightened after some wiggling. This was enough for me. It's possible drilling a larger hole in the brass tabs would've given me more wiggle room, but I didn't feel the need. 2) In reassembling, make sure you focus the lens at close focus before tightening the small set screws at the front. I kept tightening them at infinity and then the lens wouldn't focus! It took me wayyyy too long to figure it out. 3) Use the right sized screwdrivers and provide good downward pressure when loosening for the first time. All screws are made of a softer metal (brass?) and can strip easily. In general I agree with @girafingo9280 - it's worth a try! A little frustrating but rewarding in my experience.
arguably the most important video you've released. just did an infinity mod on my isco widescreen (put a spacer between the glass elements) and the image was completely soft. just tried this photo mode zoom in technique and not only does it focus to infinity now but it's twice as sharp, doesn't effect image sharpness from taking lens now. incredible, just how it's supposed to be. thanks again mate.
Hi Tito, I've just followed the procedure you've outlined here in the video to tuneup my Moller 32/2x anamorphot adapter, I have to say the tuneup of my Moller is identical to that of the Kowa B & H. Thanks for this video as it has really helped me out, Mind you, I've the better part of 6hrs today doing this. One issue I did find with this adapter was, The two lugs inside the lens which are for the for focus tuneup, These two lugs were very slightly to wide for the slot they fit in as it felt like it was grinding sand inside the lens while focusing, So placed a piece of sandpaper on the flat surface of my breadboard and gave carefully gave one side of each lug a few passes on the sandpaper, Then refit, tune the focus up and now the focus turning is as smooth as a babies bottom. Once again thanks for this video.
Instead of using super glue and things like that when locking infinity focus, what I found easier to do is to have the infinity tab (longer one) still on with the screws very slightly tightened but just enough to allow some slip. So what you would just do is first slacken those screws but leave them on, push the tab all the way forward in the recess, as there is some play, lock the screws gently and now just push on the front optic against the resistance of the tab (it should slip now) until you reach infinity focus. Now just tighten all the screws and you are done.
Thank you for the video. I did it myself as well. My problem started with the back element. I bought my copy cheap...100 GBP...I placed the back element that in the position as good I could, turn it with some tweezers and, then added the rubber seal...that was in, and the ring, then I calibrate it even more with your method. The interesting thing is that the one I have had in the middle holes of the tabs glue and a little drilled hole under. I didn't see that in this copy. That was filled with some kind of glue..yellowish... I cleaned the old one and I added epoxy there. First in the little hole "bucket" from under then into the tab hole on a piece of waxed paper... and waited until got more sticky and thick. First, I positioned the one without the hole very well, focus it, then I placed the ones with glue, put the screws, realigned once more, and then tighten up all while it was on looking to a photo chart I printed. Then leave there 24 hours... Epoxy is said that in 7 days reach absolute maximum strength...like glass. I can say is not an easy thing and I spent hours...4-6...
after watching this I figured there must have been something wrong with my Schneider Cinelux 2x (the one with the knob) because it was only sharp f8+, all I had to do was take off the back element lock, turn the back anamorphic element barely a millimetre (like you did) and geez it's as sharp as the taking lens will allow it. Thanks so much man.
Emerson Hoskin this is exactly the problem I have.Can you please share how you did the alignment?I unscrew 2 screws at the back,but how do I rotate the element?Thanks!
so on the back there's the two screws, unscrew them, then unscrew the next two underneath that until the very back element is loose (loose enough to pop out, but just leave it in. Try to set both the focus of the ana lens and the taking lens to the same fixed spot somewhere, hold the ana in front of the taking lens and very carefully rotate the back of the ana with your thumb, you might get a thumbprint on the llens, but you can just clean that, then screw the rings back onto the back and you should be all good man!
So trying to do the same thing with my Kowa 16S and I can get really good sharpness. But cant get it to stick, how do you screw the plates back on whitout twisting it back to the original position? Maybe Im just stupid but can really figure it out :)
Ok so my question is slightly different.. tne back element of the 16c, what would happen if I screwed it in closer to the front element.. and also does making the inside Matt black help image quality also. I just got a 16c off eBay for 80£ but deffo needs a hood tune up and I can’t wait to try it out!! What other tricks are there to achieve a sharp image.. I put a diopter in-front of the element and it really increased sharpness and contrast was very interesting
Not sure if you did this already, however I just did all this with my Sankor 16C (very similar design) and I found just getting the elements as far from each other as physically possible before rescrewing it in ensured good infinity focus, and turning it juuuust so to get the smear effect to vanish before tightening worked very well. The screw and tab placement is easier than the Kowa B&H given the Sankor is smaller, so it's really not too difficult to "tune". As far as the second part on material, I found that flocking the inside with thin adhesive sheets of matte black jewelry velvet worked very well. You can find flocking tutorials here on RUclips, and that is what I followed. I avoided paint to avoid mess and make things reversible if I didn't like results. I'm working on making a single focus solution, so it would be nice to know what diopters you're enjoying! Cheers!
Excellent tips, my friend. Great work, as always! So, I imagine everyone's mileage will vary, depending on the lens they have and even just the specifics of how their lens has been stored, used, transported, etc etc. That being said, is there some kind of test or metric you can use to determine if your scope will benefit from this tweak? Like, did your lens always look blurry at f/4 before you did this tune up? I have the same scope as you, and haven't had any issues with its resolving power. But then again I haven't had anything to compare it to (except the much worse slr magic 2x- no contest). Hope that makes sense. Thanks Tito!
Great info Bobby, thanks! I went to try the tune up myself, but the bronze flat head screws wouldn't budge! The heads started to strip, even with a lot of force applied, so I didn't want to risk causing any irreversible damage. Luckily, my Kowa 16H is sharp as is, so I don't think I'd benefit from it too much anyway. It's weird though, literally ever one of the bronze flat head screws gave the same amount of resistance. Not a single one would budge!
Did you ever get your screws loose Chris? I just took all mine out except for one. I've got one super tight screw and the head is beginning to wear out and slip. I'm tempted to drill it out but I'm pretty hesitant to take a drill anywhere near my kowa 16-H
Hi,Tito: I have questions: 1. Did you use the 135mm focal length to calibrate infinity, whether it is necessary to adjust the width after shooting? 2. When I use different focal lengths of the lens, whether they still need to be infinitely corrected? Thank you so much.
So what happens when you need to rotate the front so far that the screw holes no longer align with the brass tabs? I have an Elmoscope II that needs fine tuned and it’s there, I just can’t find a way to stabilize it without the screws.
Hey Tito, I just received my Kowa B&H and I'm trying to adapt it to my Contax lenses. What is the most efficient solution? I have the vidatlantic basic clamp and that doesn't fit; the internet tells me the rear diameter of the B&H is 52mm but I just want to make sure before I buy any more step rings or clamps.
Hello Tito! I went with your advice and got the B&H/HardCore DNA set up. Thank you for that. Test footage looks pretty good on most of my lenses. I came across this video and wanted to give it a try. Until I got to the tab screws. I was only able to get one of six off. The other ones are on very tight. When I started to cause some damage to the screw heads I decided to take a break. Its just minimal stripping on the screw heads so no real damage, but I wanted to ask if you or anyone else had this experience or if there is something I am doing wrong. Thank you!
Hello Tito, thanks for the informative work ! I just bought a Schneider Cinelux adapter, waiting for an Hardcore DNA. Do you think I need to tune-up like you did ? Is is even possible with it ? Thanks :)
Probably... I tried to unscrew the 4 screws on the lens (not the ones on the top), but didn't succeed. I will first try to see if it's sharp enough ;) By the way would you say that 95mm ND filters and diopters are necessary for the harcoreDNA ? Or can I use 77mm via step down ring without vignetting ? thank you Tito !
Whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa, at the beginning the locking tabs were complete, but at the end when he's putting them back in one of the ends is snapped off. That wasn't addressed. Does it need to be like that?
Ei Tito, tudo bem? Antes de mais nada, parabéns por todo o trabalho. Acompanho seu site e vídeos há alguns meses. Sabe como é, aqui no BR é extremamente difícil conseguir anamórficas e mais difícil ainda conseguir quem faça manutenção. Consegui uma KOWA B&H em estado ruim, queria dica sua se conhece quem possa fazer manutenção nela. Um abraço e parabéns novamente
Obrigado pela resposta, Tito! Então, fico monitorando as poucas opções que temos aqui, MercadoLivre e OLX. Apareceu essa Kowa B&H (ainda com a lente de projeção e corpo) por preço ridículo e comprei semana passada. Ela está com o foco bastante duro e o 'anel' de marcação de distância está soltando. Além disso não conseguir tirar o anel circular da parte de trás da anamórfica (que se conecta com o corpo da lente de projeção) e estou com medo dele estar colado... Enfim, vai dar trabalho, mas só de ter testado ela e funcionado (na mão! meu clamp made in brazil está com um amigo) já me deixa animado. Fico com medo de abrir e mexer como nesse e outros vídeos seus...
Hi Tito, I use different lenses (nikon, zeiss standar prime/high speed) on different camera (BMursa, sonya7s, red, arri) with Sankor 16F and rapido FVD-16A, do you think i can set INF on my Sankor? my images are beautiful but not very sharp. What do think about that?
@@AnamorphicOnABudget its almost the same as Kowa, only with 2 brackets. indeed its very sensitive!! in my case i didnt have to unscrew all the way (i did though), but rather loosen the screws. interestingly the screws are extremely gentle and fragile on that thing! a screwdriver for microelectronics was too brute for them... the sharpness is better now, but unfortunately the focus ring became very tight :((
I did! Thank you Tito :) After watching this video, I became suspicious about my Sankor 16C. It was way too soft, whatever aperture or taking lens. So, we took a deep breath and disassembled it. It looks similar inside. We turned the front element a little and somehow fixed it without glue. It really does improve the sharpness!
Hello I have gh5 + viltrox + hellios44-2 + isco ultrastar2.1 + fvd rapido singlefocus i am not 100% sure how to poperly settings focus to infinity its possible to help me with i spent lot of tutorials lot time on itnternet. i will be happy if u answer thx a lot :)
Tito Ferradans 2.1 red how to properly set focus ? Put it on tripod first put hellios on infinity and aparature on 11f or whitch number ? Then find where is ultrastar sharp with hellios and lock ?
@@AnamorphicOnABudget sorry to bother again, went to your double focus video and it worked set up for subject about 5ft away, but for setting this up w/ an FMJ and HCDNA im aware I need both lenses infinity focused and when both are I find the image to be soft, would this prompt a tune up featured in this video or would I get away with readjusting both lenses until sharp at the nearest distance to infinity?
So trying to do the same thing with my Kowa 16S and I can get really good sharpness. But cant get it to stick, how do you screw the plates back on whitout twisting it back to the original position? Maybe Im just stupid but can really figure it out :)
Hey thanks for this video and your channel in general! Just to let you know, if you're facing the rear element of the lens, if you look to the right of the brass infinity tab there is actually a screwed out hole where you can use one of the screws from the tabs and just screw it in there to hold the whole thing in place at infinity once you find it. This saves you using tape to hold the lens in place at infinity. You can see the hole to the right at the 4 minute mark in this video. You could even use a socket set screw/grub screw and leave it in there forever as a set and forget infinity mark if you're using single focus solution diopters :)
This was a game changer, thank you for your help!!
Thanks for taking the time to put this tutorial up. I did this today and after my 4th attempt - I seem to have a better image coming from my Kowa. For anyone doubtful about trying - I think it's worth a go, not terribly complex but as long as you follow the tutorial step by step it's hard to go wrong. Kudos.
Tito, thank you so much for this. Took my 16H from soft until f4 to fairly sharp at f2.8! A significant change.
Some thoughts from my experience:
1) As others have mentioned, I also just loosened the screws and re-tightened after some wiggling. This was enough for me. It's possible drilling a larger hole in the brass tabs would've given me more wiggle room, but I didn't feel the need.
2) In reassembling, make sure you focus the lens at close focus before tightening the small set screws at the front. I kept tightening them at infinity and then the lens wouldn't focus! It took me wayyyy too long to figure it out.
3) Use the right sized screwdrivers and provide good downward pressure when loosening for the first time. All screws are made of a softer metal (brass?) and can strip easily.
In general I agree with @girafingo9280 - it's worth a try! A little frustrating but rewarding in my experience.
arguably the most important video you've released. just did an infinity mod on my isco widescreen (put a spacer between the glass elements) and the image was completely soft. just tried this photo mode zoom in technique and not only does it focus to infinity now but it's twice as sharp, doesn't effect image sharpness from taking lens now. incredible, just how it's supposed to be. thanks again mate.
I realize I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to watch new movies online ?
@Roman Duncan I watch on flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Randy Maverick Yup, have been using Flixzone for years myself :D
@Randy Maverick Thanks, signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it!
@Roman Duncan No problem =)
Hi Tito,
I've just followed the procedure you've outlined here in the video to tuneup my Moller 32/2x anamorphot adapter, I have to say the tuneup of my Moller is identical to that of the Kowa B & H.
Thanks for this video as it has really helped me out, Mind you, I've the better part of 6hrs today doing this.
One issue I did find with this adapter was, The two lugs inside the lens which are for the for focus tuneup, These two lugs were very slightly to wide for the slot they fit in as it felt like it was grinding sand inside the lens while focusing, So placed a piece of sandpaper on the flat surface of my breadboard and gave carefully gave one side of each lug a few passes on the sandpaper, Then refit, tune the focus up and now the focus turning is as smooth as a babies bottom.
Once again thanks for this video.
Instead of using super glue and things like that when locking infinity focus, what I found easier to do is to have the infinity tab (longer one) still on with the screws very slightly tightened but just enough to allow some slip. So what you would just do is first slacken those screws but leave them on, push the tab all the way forward in the recess, as there is some play, lock the screws gently and now just push on the front optic against the resistance of the tab (it should slip now) until you reach infinity focus. Now just tighten all the screws and you are done.
Denis Tsunenko what lens did you try that with
The same Kowa 2x for B&H
Gotcha. So Tito, after noticing glue doesn't work well, would you not recommend the glue method?
Thank you for the video. I did it myself as well. My problem started with the back element. I bought my copy cheap...100 GBP...I placed the back element that in the position as good I could, turn it with some tweezers and, then added the rubber seal...that was in, and the ring, then I calibrate it even more with your method. The interesting thing is that the one I have had in the middle holes of the tabs glue and a little drilled hole under. I didn't see that in this copy. That was filled with some kind of glue..yellowish... I cleaned the old one and I added epoxy there. First in the little hole "bucket" from under then into the tab hole on a piece of waxed paper... and waited until got more sticky and thick. First, I positioned the one without the hole very well, focus it, then I placed the ones with glue, put the screws, realigned once more, and then tighten up all while it was on looking to a photo chart I printed. Then leave there 24 hours... Epoxy is said that in 7 days reach absolute maximum strength...like glass. I can say is not an easy thing and I spent hours...4-6...
after watching this I figured there must have been something wrong with my Schneider Cinelux 2x (the one with the knob) because it was only sharp f8+, all I had to do was take off the back element lock, turn the back anamorphic element barely a millimetre (like you did) and geez it's as sharp as the taking lens will allow it. Thanks so much man.
Emerson Hoskin this is exactly the problem I have.Can you please share how you did the alignment?I unscrew 2 screws at the back,but how do I rotate the element?Thanks!
so on the back there's the two screws, unscrew them, then unscrew the next two underneath that until the very back element is loose (loose enough to pop out, but just leave it in. Try to set both the focus of the ana lens and the taking lens to the same fixed spot somewhere, hold the ana in front of the taking lens and very carefully rotate the back of the ana with your thumb, you might get a thumbprint on the llens, but you can just clean that, then screw the rings back onto the back and you should be all good man!
Emerson Hoskin thanks!any chance I can contact you via email?
just send me a message on Google+
Will it work for the Isco red star too?
Hi Tito, what would be the tune-up process for sharpening image on my Proskar 16 Anamorphic projection lens?
Hi Tito, this is very helpful!!!!! Great video!!!
And I also want to know what is the clamp that you have for this Kowa B&H ??? thanks!!!
So trying to do the same thing with my Kowa 16S and I can get really good sharpness. But cant get it to stick, how do you screw the plates back on whitout twisting it back to the original position? Maybe Im just stupid but can really figure it out :)
Ok so my question is slightly different.. tne back element of the 16c, what would happen if I screwed it in closer to the front element.. and also does making the inside Matt black help image quality also.
I just got a 16c off eBay for 80£ but deffo needs a hood tune up and I can’t wait to try it out!! What other tricks are there to achieve a sharp image.. I put a diopter in-front of the element and it really increased sharpness and contrast was very interesting
Not sure if you did this already, however I just did all this with my Sankor 16C (very similar design) and I found just getting the elements as far from each other as physically possible before rescrewing it in ensured good infinity focus, and turning it juuuust so to get the smear effect to vanish before tightening worked very well. The screw and tab placement is easier than the Kowa B&H given the Sankor is smaller, so it's really not too difficult to "tune".
As far as the second part on material, I found that flocking the inside with thin adhesive sheets of matte black jewelry velvet worked very well. You can find flocking tutorials here on RUclips, and that is what I followed. I avoided paint to avoid mess and make things reversible if I didn't like results.
I'm working on making a single focus solution, so it would be nice to know what diopters you're enjoying! Cheers!
Hi! In Terms of quality. Is the Kowa B&H better than the 8z/16H? Thank you!
Excellent tips, my friend. Great work, as always! So, I imagine everyone's mileage will vary, depending on the lens they have and even just the specifics of how their lens has been stored, used, transported, etc etc. That being said, is there some kind of test or metric you can use to determine if your scope will benefit from this tweak? Like, did your lens always look blurry at f/4 before you did this tune up? I have the same scope as you, and haven't had any issues with its resolving power. But then again I haven't had anything to compare it to (except the much worse slr magic 2x- no contest). Hope that makes sense. Thanks Tito!
I got my Sankor 16F misaligned a year ago, but 2 months ago, I did realigned it using this similar process and it is now sharper than ever.
Great info Bobby, thanks! I went to try the tune up myself, but the bronze flat head screws wouldn't budge! The heads started to strip, even with a lot of force applied, so I didn't want to risk causing any irreversible damage. Luckily, my Kowa 16H is sharp as is, so I don't think I'd benefit from it too much anyway. It's weird though, literally ever one of the bronze flat head screws gave the same amount of resistance. Not a single one would budge!
Did you ever get your screws loose Chris?
I just took all mine out except for one. I've got one super tight screw and the head is beginning to wear out and slip. I'm tempted to drill it out but I'm pretty hesitant to take a drill anywhere near my kowa 16-H
That's a dope baseplate/rail setup u got there..
Question:
"I wanna get my very first anamorphic lens/filter/adapter, what is the cheapest way to get into anamorphics?"
I have a Canon 600D.
-Justin
Hi,Tito:
I have questions:
1. Did you use the 135mm focal length to calibrate infinity, whether it is necessary to adjust the width after shooting?
2. When I use different focal lengths of the lens, whether they still need to be infinitely corrected?
Thank you so much.
Thank you for your reply.
On my Kowa 16-D the oval bokeh is horizontal and not vertical. Would this adjustment fix it?
Btw, awesome channel:D
/mathias
Tito Ferradans thanks man:) i dont have a single focus glass on yet. It might be that:)
So what happens when you need to rotate the front so far that the screw holes no longer align with the brass tabs? I have an Elmoscope II that needs fine tuned and it’s there, I just can’t find a way to stabilize it without the screws.
Hi tito does it have to be a long taking lens to do this? Sorry newb question
LITTLE HELP! While disassembling my elmo2, 3 screws just broke in half. Is there a place where to get extra screws or smth? #AskMeAnamorphic
Hey Tito, I just received my Kowa B&H and I'm trying to adapt it to my Contax lenses. What is the most efficient solution? I have the vidatlantic basic clamp and that doesn't fit; the internet tells me the rear diameter of the B&H is 52mm but I just want to make sure before I buy any more step rings or clamps.
In contact with Rapido now. Thank you!
Hello Tito! I went with your advice and got the B&H/HardCore DNA set up. Thank you for that. Test footage looks pretty good on most of my lenses. I came across this video and wanted to give it a try. Until I got to the tab screws. I was only able to get one of six off. The other ones are on very tight. When I started to cause some damage to the screw heads I decided to take a break. Its just minimal stripping on the screw heads so no real damage, but I wanted to ask if you or anyone else had this experience or if there is something I am doing wrong. Thank you!
same here, with only one screw
they are made with very fragile metal
Hello Tito, thanks for the informative work !
I just bought a Schneider Cinelux adapter, waiting for an Hardcore DNA.
Do you think I need to tune-up like you did ? Is is even possible with it ?
Thanks :)
Probably... I tried to unscrew the 4 screws on the lens (not the ones on the top), but didn't succeed. I will first try to see if it's sharp enough ;)
By the way would you say that 95mm ND filters and diopters are necessary for the harcoreDNA ? Or can I use 77mm via step down ring without vignetting ?
thank you Tito !
Unscrew the ring on the back lens- this is the one you need to align. But in general, the cinelux is very sharp, even if it s older
What’s the caveat to doing this with a 50mm lens (only one I currently have for my setup I just started) vs something more telephoto?
telephoto pushes the limit, which means the tune is more accurate. :)
@@AnamorphicOnABudget Thank u! You've helped my transition into anamorphics more than I coulda asked for!
Whoa whoa whoa whoa whoa, at the beginning the locking tabs were complete, but at the end when he's putting them back in one of the ends is snapped off. That wasn't addressed. Does it need to be like that?
No, it doesn't need to be like that. That's another mod, for even shorter minimum focus. I don't really recommend it though.
Ei Tito, tudo bem?
Antes de mais nada, parabéns por todo o trabalho. Acompanho seu site e vídeos há alguns meses.
Sabe como é, aqui no BR é extremamente difícil conseguir anamórficas e mais difícil ainda conseguir quem faça manutenção.
Consegui uma KOWA B&H em estado ruim, queria dica sua se conhece quem possa fazer manutenção nela.
Um abraço e parabéns novamente
Obrigado pela resposta, Tito!
Então, fico monitorando as poucas opções que temos aqui, MercadoLivre e OLX. Apareceu essa Kowa B&H (ainda com a lente de projeção e corpo) por preço ridículo e comprei semana passada. Ela está com o foco bastante duro e o 'anel' de marcação de distância está soltando. Além disso não conseguir tirar o anel circular da parte de trás da anamórfica (que se conecta com o corpo da lente de projeção) e estou com medo dele estar colado...
Enfim, vai dar trabalho, mas só de ter testado ela e funcionado (na mão! meu clamp made in brazil está com um amigo) já me deixa animado.
Fico com medo de abrir e mexer como nesse e outros vídeos seus...
Então: dei sorte com a minha kowa, ela foca muito bem no infinito (o que é surpreendente, porque ela tem marcas de queda).
Hi Tito, I use different lenses (nikon, zeiss standar prime/high speed) on different camera (BMursa, sonya7s, red, arri) with Sankor 16F and rapido FVD-16A, do you think i can set INF on my Sankor? my images are beautiful but not very sharp. What do think about that?
@@AnamorphicOnABudget thank you very much!!! I did have to set INF on my scope!! Now the image is very sharp!!!
is it possible to clean the galssfrom inside, i want to open the lens as mine have in the insight part of the lens dust or maybe fungus too?
Yeah, I have a more recent video on opening up this lens which shows how to split it in two pieces: ruclips.net/video/aBGug6GhbXk/видео.html
Will this alignment be applicable for the sankor 16c?
Yes! :)
Hey Tito, can the kowa be rehoused in the casing after this mod?
Thank you that's great news!
could this method work for Singer 16D? my focus is very soft at any position of the ring.. while the taking lens (helios 44-2) is sharp in focus!
It should, although construction will be different.
@@AnamorphicOnABudget its almost the same as Kowa, only with 2 brackets. indeed its very sensitive!! in my case i didnt have to unscrew all the way (i did though), but rather loosen the screws. interestingly the screws are extremely gentle and fragile on that thing! a screwdriver for microelectronics was too brute for them...
the sharpness is better now, but unfortunately the focus ring became very tight :((
you think this will work on a Sankor 16C?
I did! Thank you Tito :) After watching this video, I became suspicious about my Sankor 16C. It was way too soft, whatever aperture or taking lens. So, we took a deep breath and disassembled it. It looks similar inside. We turned the front element a little and somehow fixed it without glue. It really does improve the sharpness!
Black Winter sounds awesome! any chance you could post a couple of photos of what that looks like? I also have a Sankor 16C that I want to adjust
Hello I have gh5 + viltrox + hellios44-2 + isco ultrastar2.1 + fvd rapido singlefocus i am not 100% sure how to poperly settings focus to infinity its possible to help me with i spent lot of tutorials lot time on itnternet. i will be happy if u answer thx a lot :)
Tito Ferradans 2.1 red how to properly set focus ? Put it on tripod first put hellios on infinity and aparature on 11f or whitch number ? Then find where is ultrastar sharp with hellios and lock ?
Tito Ferradans thx a lot 😊
Any reason my bokeh would be horizontal?
There's a big mismatch between the focused distance on the taking lens and the anamorphic.
Copy, Thank you for your quick response!
@@AnamorphicOnABudget sorry to bother again, went to your double focus video and it worked set up for subject about 5ft away, but for setting this up w/ an FMJ and HCDNA im aware I need both lenses infinity focused and when both are I find the image to be soft, would this prompt a tune up featured in this video or would I get away with readjusting both lenses until sharp at the nearest distance to infinity?
@@pmcfilms2478 the second option. Adjust to actual infinity, don't rely too much on the focus marks, just on what your eyes can see.
So trying to do the same thing with my Kowa 16S and I can get really good sharpness. But cant get it to stick, how do you screw the plates back on whitout twisting it back to the original position? Maybe Im just stupid but can really figure it out :)
same here