Fix Your Torque Wrench For Under $2
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2024
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I show you how I fixed my torque wrench for under $2. I'm not sure if this method is valid or legit so do at your own risk. However, I don't see why not if the calibration is somewhat spot on. Let me know what you think!
1/4" Washers: thd.co/2Tq698Q
Tools You May Need...:
DIgital Caliper Gauge Measuring Tool: amzn.to/2GlvFHH
Weighing Scale: amzn.to/30QgEHt
You can also buy a new torque wrench :)
Tekton 1/2" Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2Vtvqko
#torque #repair #diy
► Buy me a coffee if I helped you with this video! www.buymeacoff...
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Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. I assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not me. Enjoy my videos.
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The resting length of the spring is critical. Since it has weakened, the amount of travel of the adjusting thimble is no longer consistent with the spring travel required. It now takes less travel of the thimble to attain a desired torque setting.
Yeah, the compressed spring across the same torque range is a problem. He can calibrate somewhat for a sub range of the total range (like maybe the top 3rd or 4th), but the other ranges will always be off, thus significantly reducing the useful range of the device. Better to just buy a new wrench for $50, as it seems likely this wrench didn’t even cost that.
Nicely done video.
It's still useable as a long ½" ratchet wrench.
Calibration is off.
Will measure under from the end.
Will measure over at 12" point.
Measure from the point you hold.
The force at the vice jaws from a ½" square being turned is awesome.
I know this is 2 years old but something to think about for others: the measure of 16" is not consistent as the higher lb the shorter the length of the wrench becomes. I am confident that's why you are seeing variations in your numbers. None the less great video and explanation. Most conscience video on RUclips.
Thx. I just did it for fun to see if I wanted to do RUclips vids hehe glad it was helpful
That's why there is the channel in the knurling of the handle. That is the exact calibration point as it relates to length. It should match the calibration at any of its torque settings at that channel. Ideally, for the most accurate results, when using a clicker type torque wrench, that little channel would be the only place you would apply force. It does matter where you apply the force on the handle; because, like you implied, it's relative to the exact length from the center of the pivot point (center of rotation of the fastener) at which you apply pressure. Some people are much more accurate with a click style simply because they are more consistent with how and where they hold the handle so as to get more consistently repeatable results.
And your video does help me, I got mine for 9 dollars each, their calibrated I do it my self but I have never opened so now I know what to expect when I open mine
Springs don't weaken due to being compressed for periods of time. They weaken only by cycling. I have a craftsman microtork that I'd left set on 150 lb-ft (it had a 250 lb-ft max) for probably 10 years. I bought an electronic gauge to check it, it was still just fine.
good info
I just bought one that said to always store it with no tension, so I was surprised it was new in the box with 60# of pressure. Started to worry, but now I won't. Thank you my friend!
Some spring do deform like this one. Store at 10 ft lb like the instruction say.
Thanks. Adding 2 washers fixed my 30 yr old torque
wow, 30 yr old!! how much was it then? $3 maybe.
@@MegaBobtube 1980's, toold were worth money, not whay they're worth now. Not at all, but definetly not 3$ dollars 😂😂😂.
Best explanation I've found yet. Great vid
Glad you liked it!
Thank you very much SIR! I was about to throw this thing away.
till you pulled out that magnet to remove the pen. I much appreciate your help. Good luck with your channel.
Thank you kind sir
Thanks for a good, practical method for checking calibration with a known load.
However, what I had expected you to do was to use/"try out" a Harbor Freight digital torque wrench adapter. These devices are usually much more accurate than a mechanical/spring-driven indicator.
As a test with the digital torque adapter, you could apply the wrench to any nut and bolt, and tighten to the desired value for your wrench, based on the digital torque adapter display. Whatever the adapter reads, add washers until you closely match the adapter reading.
As you point out, it is important to check accuracy at various increments down the scale, since value accuracy at the heaviest torque may not match the value accuracy at other settings.
Of course, the idea was to do the accuracy check for $2.00, but you could not have performed the adjustment without your digital postal scale-- at some additional cost.
Just out of curiosity, how many cars do you have in your garage?
3 cars. I did this video for fun to test my camera lol. I never imagined anyone would watch it :). Thanks for the tips
My goodness you are doing this the hard way!!!! Yes there is a piston-locating pin that keeps the piston from sliding out the handle end and sliding too far toward the nut-turning end, but you do NOT have to compress the main spring, at all, to get the pin in. You can simply remove the the big pin, at the nut-turning end of the wrench, which is roughly 5 mm in diameter and 2 cm long, that holds the nut-turning head, with its attached tool-steel bar, inside the tubular main body of the torque wrench device. To remove the pin remove the E-clip that is at one end of the pin. Some wrenches may have another type of fastener to hold the pin in place, other than an E-clip. Then simply pull out the big pin. Once you remove the big pin you can pull on the nut-turning head and slide its attached tool-steel bar out of the tubular main body of the device. Once you do that, once you pull the head out just a little bit from the tube, you will have removed the pressure on the spring. Now - there are one or more parts inside the tube, between the tool-steel bar and the spring. Either completely remove the bar and take a look at what you have, and when re-assembling be sure to return all the parts to the same place they came from or, after you remove the head-end pin, pull out on the bar just barely enough to relieve pressure on the spring, relieve it just enough so that you can get the piston-locating pin into the piston. That way, everything between the spring and the head will stay in place.
lol it was just an experiment and one of my first videos on my new camera.. just gave me an excuse to film something. thanks for the comments though!
@@PhoRunner My comment gave me an opportunity to see how concisely and clearly I could describe, without resorting to using drawings or photographs, how to perform a mechanical assembly.
@@PhoRunnerI took apart and put back together my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2 inch drive springy-clicky wrench model # 62431 a couple of days ago and it seemed to be working afterwards. However just before sending my message here, during the process of doing a little housecleaning, I found a little pin on the floor. A pin about the size of the torque-wrench piston locating pin. Now, it's not the locating pin; that is in its proper place. I don't know what the hell kind of pin it is that I found, or where it came from. It has a little rubber "cap" on one end and a circumferential groove in it. Maybe I tracked it in on my shoes from outdoors, I don't know. Or maybe I took something apart and forgot to put a part back in. I hate when that happens. This is driving me crazy. I know I won't stop searching all over the internet until I find an answer to my question: where the fugu-fish did this pin and its little rubber hat come from? All kinds of very important things will have to be placed on the back burner until I figure out where the pin came from. Because KNOWLEDGE is power and I like power.
hey Ready Teddy... why don't you make a video... so many non-readers in the world you live.
There is another guy who shows how to adjust the torque wrench with the nut on the end. Of the wrench. You could probably get it much closer if you watch it. I don’t remember his name but he is on RUclips as well.
Great vid! I am very surprised that the spring keeps its linearity pretty well even though it is (mechanically) damaged/compressed.
Springs are constant in nature if the coils are all the same. At least that’s what my physics teacher said
I disagree. It actually did not keep its linearity that well when you consider that it has effectively become more rigid than designed, and thus you’re going to see significant deviation across the torque range, which is exactly what he’s seeing, and would be much more noticeable if he actually took a reading at the top end of the wrench. The goal is to have roughly 2 to 4 percent precision across the entire range of 20% to 100% of the wrench max range. If he tries to calibrate the wrench to meet spec at the top end of the range then the mid and lower ends are going to be hugely off. The only viable solution in this particular instance is to replace the spring, buy a new wrench, or only use the wrench for some limited sub range of the full range.
Gday, thanks for taking the time to show the repair, for the average person working on there own stuff this is more the good enough, certainly better then no torque wrench at all, great job mate, take care...
Thanks for watching. I was testing out my new camera hehe
You can always heat up in the oven the spring to expand it.
smart!
Really ? That's good to know, thank's.
Very good explanation of how a tention wrench work's
And with a little patience and.shiming you could get it back working like new again.
Great video. Thanks Dean from Australia ❤️
Thanks!
Nice video brother, I have a torque wrench that wont fully lock any idea what it might be? Thanks 👍
No idea to be honest lol
Interesting video. But you should have been pulling at the center of the grip not the far end of the wrench. Where you pull will effect the result on a wrench like that. There are videos which illustrate why that is true.
On delicate stuff I do use the torque wrench, specially in German cars with aluminium bolts
Take aluminum foil and cut out several round pieces to mimic the washers and just try one or two pieces at a time to fine tune it.
Very good educational video 👍🏻 I have learned something new how to fix and calibrate
Wish Sam's Club used a manual torque wrench on 4 of my new purchased tires. Something didn't feel right on my front tires pulsing while braking, an indication of warped rotors. Lug nuts way too tight and when Costco did that 20 years ago it cost me $400 then for a new set of front rotors on the Volvo. The lug nuts installed from Sam's Club couldn't be removed with my 450 ft-lb Milwaukee torque wrench. What were they using? I retorqued it to 78 ft-lb on all 4 of the tires, hopefully no damage.
There is one critical factor you have got wrong in this otherwise excellent video. See this video by *Park Tool,* the Rolls Royce of manufacturers of quality bicycle tools: _"Tech Tuesday #13: Torque Wrench Accuracy"._ It shows how you will only reach the correct torque on the bolt you are tightening if you apply the weight to the correct point on your torque wrench tool (for Park Tool torque wrenches for example, the correct point is exactly in the middle of the handle). The above factor seems crazy and counter-intuitive, but it is true! The following video: _"Why GRIP Position on Torque Wrenches MATTERS!"_ - although it is beyond the intellectual pay grade of my poor and inferior brain to understand - apparently explains the physics and the mathematics behind this weird and somewhat complex physics phenomenon.
So you are wrong to apply the weight at the end of the torque wrench tool, and your results will unfortunately be incorrect even though you have quite correctly applied the equation to adjust the ft/lb from 16½" to 12".
I’m sorry
@@PhoRunner _"Sorry"??_ Nothing to apologise about!! Just a factor, and a critical one at that, that is being missed by all the RUclips videos on this subject, and which omission Park Tool carefully highlights n their laboratory-controlled video (and also posts a comment to a previous video by the creator of the second RUclips video I refer to - a comment the creator pinned, and which made him go on to create the second video I referred to in my above post to correct his first!). I thought for the sake of science *and for the sake of the accuracy of your torque wrench,* it was worth pointing out. As I said, I think your video is otherwise excellent and informative.
I made this video for fun as I was starting my RUclips journey. Didn’t realize this video would get so many hits lol.
@@PhoRunner We're all interested in checking the calibration of our torque wrenches (very important to do!) and if necessary recalibrate, but without having to pay the same (or even more) as it cost to purchase the tool in the first place. That's very probably why your video has attracted so much interest.
Categorically it is incorrect to say that the torque indicated is affected by where you hold it. Anywhere after the pin will be 100% consistent because the shaft is a solid structure. You can move yourself hand around. The perceived force you feel will change because you are changing your mechanical advantage.
Where it does make a big difference is when you attempt to apply a known exact quantum of force to the machine. Generally for calibration. Now the lever length is critical and the distance from the pivot centre to force point must be measured exactly. This allows you to calculate the torque that you are applying to the machine.
In general use the machine doesn't care how much force you apply where. The load is directed to the cam/spring interface and that's where the deflection is in fact measured.
How would one go about reversing a torque wrench for reverse threads? Like flipping the guts
How do you fix it, if the torque wrenche isn't even turning?
Perhaps the gear teeth are broken and jamming. Might be time to buy a new one!
I just bought a torque wrench that has lots of good reviews and looks exactly like yours, it came pre set at 20 ft-lb, but it doesn't click at low torque ranges. And it's brand new. What would be he problem? I bought it to repair my motorcycle engine.
My torque wrench seems like it’s jammed. It’s hard to twist to adjust to certain torque settings. Any idea what it could be?
Sorry no
So, my question seems dumb, but idk whay sort of pressure you were faced with when installing the “piston locating pin” but I can’t understand ,(without that clearly defined information....maybe later in vid? At 15 minutes right now), why it wouldn’t be simply to drill a proper sized hole in a block of wood for the torque wrench to slide into, for control purposes, resting it’s head on something semi forging(more wood?), and placing the wood between your legs to some other reasonably rigid stand-type device/setup. And forcing the spring to compress with your hands as you aligned and installed the aforementioned pin? Seems that when relying on a jerry rigged floor jack hack, you leave far too much to chance. But, still early in the vid.....
instablaster.
Make a video I’ll watch it ,
Ive watched several different videos on this and everyone is doing something different, you have taken the whole thing apart , im wondering does the brand of the torque wrench make a difference on which way to calibrate them?
Kendim tork anahtarı yapasım geldi 👍
For some reason my 150ft/lb torque wrench will only go up to 130. I don't know why?
I have no clue haha perhaps worn out spring?
Couldn't i just use my cheap non click torque wrench on any bolt to calibrate my fallen apart clicky wrench?
My torque wrench is of same model as yours. Inside there is a cube , unlike other torque wrenches came with roller and bearings . I tried to fix it just as u said in this video but no matter how i fix it it doesnt click at any adjusted torque. Is there a solution Bro.? Thank you
I'm not sure! Just buy another one at harbor freight for $20 :)
Inside the torque wrench there is a piece that does the clicking. Take that piece apart and remove all the original grease and replace it with fresh wheel bearing type grease and it might work again. Mine did. There should be two small ball bearings in the clicking device. Make sure when you put the clicking device into the handle that the two small ball bearings line up with the adjustment Allen key screw that is half way between the handle and the square drive.
I saved $2 and had Amazon send another 😂
lol
is that a harbor Freight toque Wrench ??? it looks like it , i bought one at Harbor Freight and i took it back because I couldn't get to 150, got a new one and I can get it to 150 but still stiff
Tekton and power built
Cheers .
cheers!
The clicking mechanism wasn't working and when I took it apart, the clicking mechanism wouldn't slide out like yours.
The grease was very old and gunked in there. I cleaned it all up and now it clicks again! Thanks for your video!
@@dln6374 show a video on how you cleaned it all up. Mine wasn't clicking since I bought it.
I think the spring is not anymore linear.
Interesting video, but is it that useful? For $50, just replace the torque wrench. The one you bought was cheep and you got your money out of it. However, if this was a $300 torque wrench then, sure, fix it, but do it the right way by replacing the spring.
You ruined the wrench and are trying to compensate for what should be a section of flexible spring with inflexible metal washers, and the spring is now also more rigid from compression, meaning that the shorter more rigid spring has to still cover the same torque range and thus has lost significant resolution across that range. The values you’re getting after all the work you did are not acceptable for the purpose of this device. Just my 2 cents.
True I wasted my time.
@@PhoRunner The one thing I did get out of the video is how to disassemble a torque wrench, so that’s good to know. As for calibration, doesn’t the wrench have a nut you can tighten or an Allen screw? Not saying it would help in this case since the spring was ruined, but for someone who maybe needs a slight adjustment.
Were you able to get a good replacement, I hope?
@F16_viper_pilot I have Tekton torque wrenches I use now. This one lives in some tool graveyard pile in my garage
@@PhoRunner hahaha! Nice choice on the Tekton; good value.
@F16_viper_pilot I also stopped using torque wrenches as much lol… “by feel” unless it’s something like head bolts