When you wined the handle in to adjust the torque you are changing the radius(from hand to bolt head ), so you need to Set your torque then measure your radius then calc your weight etc Because you will have wound your handle towards the bolt by about an inch. Also choose a calibration torque in the middle of the torque wrench range eg for 40-210 Nm choose 125 Nm. Over adjust your torque wrench slightly then keep backing off the the threaded spacer nut that compresses the spring with each try, until you find where your wrench just clicks when set to the calibration torque ,then lock in place. Have to loosen off spring compression for each adjustment and then reset the calibration torque. For next try etc..
So here is the metric formula: force=weight×9.81×length of the tape marking. If the weight is 10 kg and the tape marking is 0.4 m it should look like this: 10kg×9.81=98.1. 98.1×0.4=39.2 NM. If you put weight of 10 kg to 04 m lenght the wrench should click on 39.2 NM. Hope I was clear.
I'd leave the bathroom scale out it. I worked in a lab with calibrated scales and I brought in and weighed a variety of cast iron weights like you used. They were all spot on (several different manufacturers). So if you put 40 pounds of weights on your scale and it doesn't read 40 pounds, I believe it would be much more likely that the scale is off, not your iron weights. What you did was actually calibrate your bathroom scale, and it was perfect. If you don't have any of these kind of weights and are using your bath scale to weight some object you want to use, like a cement block or something, no "weigh" I would trust the displayed value to be accurate. Also, how would you know your digital torque gauge is accurate? To have faith in my calibration I would have to do what you did (minus the bathroom scale part)... First calibrate your wrench using iron weights, then check that result against your gauge. Once your verify that your gauge is accurate, then you could use it with confidence. Good video!
This method would work for the value you have chosen, 50 ft lbs in your case but there is far more involved. All torque wrenches are set at factory with three locations tested to ensure overall accuracy at all settings, not just 50 ft lbs. If any one setting is adjusted for during Calibration by a qualified technician then three locations are tested to ensure accuracy through the entire range of the scale. This means you need to check 20%, 60% and 100% of the scale values. It is easy to make a wrench accurate at any one location but in doing so you very likely make the rest inaccurate. Non electronic Torque wrenches are very robust so if your wrench is not accurate then you first need to address why and fix that first. Usually the grease inside is old and has lost its lubrification factor making the movements inside not moving well. It is common during Calibration of a wrench to strip it down and clean it, then add new grease. Then the wrench is fine again after calibration. This means if your wrench is no longer accurate and you simply do what you have mentioned here without addressing the reasons the wrench is no longer accurate, you risk making the wrench only accurate at this one setting. So you must check all three locations mentioned above after any and all adjustments. Each time you make an adjustment you have to check all three locations again. By the way I am certified by Snap On to repair and calibrate torque wrenches.
What would you charge to work on a Snap-on 1/2 drive 50 to 250 foot pound wrench? Nut in the handle came loose in mine this afternoon. Not sure what the model number of it is.
@@timw1573 I am not equipped to test them like this anymore. I did work at it for a time but am retired now. You may not have a real big problem. send me a pic of the wrench and a pic of the loose nut. Or send me the model number.
@@Soniccues Thanks. Sorry I haven't replied back on this; been fairly busy. I think it's a QD3R250. The Snap-on rep was around today and we checked it on his torque check tool. Looks like it's about 20 LBS off. I will try and send you a couple of pictures. I bought a new QD3R250A. I still might want to try and get this other one working and maybe find it a new owner. $120 to send it in to through the rep.
When you orient the wrench horizontally there is an additional weight acting on the wrench that adds to the torque, the weight of the wrench itself acting through its center of mass. If we assume that the mass of the wrench is approximately uniformly distributed long its length we can assume that the center of mass will coincide with the midpoint, for greater accuracy we can balance the wrench on a knife edge and measure the distance from the center of the drive tang to the balance point. As a simple numerical example, suppose the wrench is 16 inches long and weighs 3 lbs. The center of mass distance is about 8 inches, so that the additional torque would be about: (8/12)ft*3lbs = 2 ft*lbs. It's not a lot, especially if you're measuring large torques, but it is an improvement. What I would do for a quick and dirty calibration tester would be to either chuck the wrench in the vise in a vertical orientation, eliminating the torque generated by the wrench's weight, or position it on a wheel lugnut in a vertical position. I would then get one of those hand-held digital electronic luggage scales and place the strap around the middle of the handgrip area or the machined groove, if there is one. I would then pull horizontally and read the torque where it clicks and make adjustments accordingly.
Cool video, I just bought my first torque wrench. Sounds like 15 inches is a good measurement to pick if your wrench is long enough. That way the math is always # of pounds times 1.25. Seeing you show how it is just simple math and simple physics, not another expensive tool, is great!
You should pull on "the groove" mark on the handle! Due to construction of click wrench with secondary shaft inside main body you MUST NOT measure directly from the head! Instead you should attach you pull scale right at the groove of the handle and measure from the groove to the middle of the head (socket), then calculate adequate force. Secondary shaft and whole "click" mechanism change geometry of click wrench so typical "length x force" does not apply as it would with simple, solid shaft/bar. Look into construction of click wrenches or service/assembly to get better idea. Also remember that 1 Newton = 0.1019716213 kilogram-force. A kilogram-force (symbol: kgf) is a unit of force in the gravitational metric system. It is defined as the magnitude of force applied to one kilogram of mass under the condition of standard gravity (9.80665 m/s2). One kilogram-force is therefore equal to 9.80665 N. Good luck
This made me laugh. I was thinking to myself, “Now I have to go buy a vice because I don’t have one😭.” Then you said “put it on the lug nut” and I was like HOLY SHIT I HAVE A LUG NUT
I have the old school Craftsman 3/8 click type torque wrench that you have to open up the bottom, plastic cap to adjust. The locking nut has very little clearance for a socket. Do you know what style thin walled socket or tool would fit that? Thanks for post this video!
Have had this issue ...as it happens wrench is in spec.... still haven't found a way to get at that nut , needle nose pliers don't work for me. Was thinking of cutting handle, replacing nut with one I can get at and then somehow restoring cut off piece OR buying a wrench with different cal method 🙂
Awesome Video. Would you happen to have any instructions on how to calibrate a inch lb torque wrench? The torque wrench that I have is a 10 inch lb torque wrench... On all torque wrench calibration's, do you set your torque wrench at 0, before measuring? Thanks for your response, Regards, JJ
Good vidéo 👍 👍 👍 Hello, I have a torque wrench broken at the head because I forced during a tightening, I changed the broken part but it does not click anymore during tightening. Thank you for telling me give your opinion on the problem. CORDIALLY
Thank you for the very informative video. I also have a gearwrench end-cap style torque wrench with very little clearance for either a socket or needle-nose pliers. It looks like the nut is 11/16". Does anybody know of a thinwall socket that may work?
I thought the channel name was an African surname 😂. I’m South African, but then a guy with a strange accent spoke and I’m like oh it is ‘IN The Fast Lane’. Thanks for this video. I’ll need to sort out my torque wrench as it let me down tightening up my generator overrrun pulley AND stripped my FEAD belt tensioner bolt at ‘45Nm’.
Would it be as accurate to use 12" as the 1 ft/lb mark and whatever you would desire for the weight you are using? Then you would not have to do the math steps. ie: 40 lb weight would indicate 40 ft/lb on torque wrench. 50 lb weight would indicate 50 ft/lb on torque wrench. then adjust torque wrench as desired. Just wondering. Thanks!
I think this is because it's best to hang the weight from somewhere between the middle and end of the handle, where you would put your hand when using the wrench.
Question(s): Didn't you slightly change the length of your torque wrench when you dialed in 50 lb/pounds after you made your length measurement? Also, didn't you skew the torque reading when you used an adapter with the digital calibrator since you changed the circumference and thus the torque at the Digital meter? Thanks
I would say yes, it may have changed around 1/8th. But that's okay, because anywhere within that handle grip is where you will be applying pressure. I mention how I like to apply pressure more towards the back of the handle where the silver ring is. Keep in mind all certified and even high end torque wrenches are within 3-4 % accuracy. This is the ANSI standard. Again with the skew that would still be within the 3-4% accuracy. The ANSI Standard allows 4% of reading error between 20% and 100% of wrench capacity. Hope this helps!
I have to say that I had the same concern as wa4aos. I get it that the ANSI standard is 4% accuracy, but that's *for the wrench*. If your calibration method is less than 100% accurate, you have to add that to the total margin of error. Also, where you normally grip the wrench is not relevant. All that affects is how much pressure *you* have to exert to make the wrench apply a certain torque. With this in mind, I can suggest a few things that would make your test a little more accurate. 1. Make your measurement mark on the metal part of the handle which doesn't move in and out like the grip. As you mention in your notes, 12" would make the math simpler. 2. Make your measurement mark as fine and straight as possible....maybe use a fine point sharpie. 3. The strap you're using to hang the weights looks to be pretty thick...what 3/8" or so? Seems like that makes it difficult to center on the mark. Why not use a piece of wire? If that slides, you could apply a piece of duct tape on either side of the mark. I think each of these steps would add incremental accuracy to your calibration.
Hmmmm? Maybe I am totally missing something here but. . . His picture states to divide the measuring length by 12. Then, to take that result and multiply the weight by it. But, his narrative states to divide the weight by that number, in his example, 1.25. . . So, which is it? Multiply your weight by the 1.25 result or, divide your weight by the 1.25 result? Also, how would this all be converted to inch pounds?
So if you have a 1/4" or 3/8" torque wrench where the handle is less than 12" long and you decide the line you will hang your weight on is 8" do you use what will amount to a less than 1 ratio to set the wrench compared to actual hanging weight? For example a 20 lb plate weight at 8" from socket center you would dial the wrench to 8"/12"= .667, .667*20=13.3lbs? Would you set your wrench at 13.3 lbs with a 20lb weight hanging 8" out?
My Sealey 3/8 torque wrench has both the end adjustment shown at 1:10 and the grub screw hidden under the rubber grommet so I confused by which I should use to do the calibration.
Using weights ignores the weight of the torque wrench itself! A ½" wrench can easily weigh a couple of pounds. And, you can't just add in the weight of the wrench since that weight is distributed along the length of the wrench.
why don't you measure it to the groove in the handle isnt that what its for? also just use a coat hanger to tie everything together....just some thoughts
I was going to ask the same question. I think the best way (I'm going to do it this way) is to first figure the weight you are going to use, then set the wrench and then measure.
@@javirodify yeah I don’t think it matters unless you’re testing zero lbs torque. When you change the torque setting the length of the wrench changes right? So if it’s 15 inches to me it has to be 15” at the weight you’re trying to calibrate at. Otherwise you mark the handle at zero ft/lbs and then set it to 20ft/lbs the mark on the wrench isn’t at 15”
Close, but if you have a mate's torque wrench!?, use his to calibrate yours...!? 🤔 As I did, as he recently bought a new 1, it be alot easier, especially if no weights, or digital scale...., but if I see rear wheel going past front car window, then it wasn't a good idea...lol 😂
You cant beat the manual way of calibration, 40 lbs is always 40 lbs. The digital adapter could be out of calibration and you wouldnt know it AND there is no way for you to calibrate it.
No. It's a very simple electronic device. No moving parts. If you open it, there's just a short socket extension with strain gauges glued on in a Wheatstone bridge set up. As long as the electronics work, the factory calibration should stay good.
Where you push makes no difference. It's only important for the testing. The shorter you grip the wrench, the harder it will be to move. The wrench doesn't care.
So if you push right where the outer tubular handle connects through the pivot, you'll have to push really, really hard, but the wrench doesn't care, when you push hard enough it clicks at the same torque, right? Edit - since there's been no response, here's a hint: No, it doesn't happen that way. "Where you push makes no difference" is a mistaken idea for a dual lever click wrench. If you shorten your grip it measures the torque value wrongly.
49.9 ft lbs sure. You can feel when it's going to click in and out. When you get to the very max where it has that final click, that's where you leave it. Every torque wrench has a percentage that they're allowed to be off by regulation. +-/4% is the standard.
You didn't account for the fact that the weight of the handle is applying some torque to the head of the torque wrench. You also need to set the torque wrench to the desired setting torque setting before measuring where you're going to hang the weight.
completely wrong calibration methodology used 3:17 - you have used the 15'' mark when the handle is way below, but when you adjust the handle to the 50ft-lb mark the length wont remain 15'' and your calculation would be wrong
@@Nthefastlane It is accurate with weights because weights from a weight set are usually pretty accurate. However using a bathroom scale to weigh yourself and then whatever weight you are using such as a rotor would be anything but accurate. Take as many bathroom scales as possible and you will usually get a different reading on most of them. So Tyler, he is not hating, just making a fairly true statement.
🛒Shop This Video: www.nthefastlane.com/torque-wrench-calibration-store
🛒Find Any Leak: amzn.to/3JADlYm
🛒Download Auto Repair Manuals: shrsl.com/3wmrj
🛒Visit Nthefastlane's Amazon Store: amzn.to/3pP4UCy
When you wined the handle in to adjust the torque you are changing the radius(from hand to bolt head ), so you need to Set your torque then measure your radius then calc your weight etc Because you will have wound your handle towards the bolt by about an inch. Also choose a calibration torque in the middle of the torque wrench range eg for 40-210 Nm choose 125 Nm. Over adjust your torque wrench slightly then keep backing off the the threaded spacer nut that compresses the spring with each try, until you find where your wrench just clicks when set to the calibration torque ,then lock in place. Have to loosen off spring compression for each adjustment and then reset the calibration torque. For next try etc..
So here is the metric formula: force=weight×9.81×length of the tape marking. If the weight is 10 kg and the tape marking is 0.4 m it should look like this: 10kg×9.81=98.1.
98.1×0.4=39.2 NM. If you put weight of 10 kg to 04 m lenght the wrench should click on 39.2 NM. Hope I was clear.
*mass :)
I'd leave the bathroom scale out it. I worked in a lab with calibrated scales and I brought in and weighed a variety of cast iron weights like you used. They were all spot on (several different manufacturers). So if you put 40 pounds of weights on your scale and it doesn't read 40 pounds, I believe it would be much more likely that the scale is off, not your iron weights. What you did was actually calibrate your bathroom scale, and it was perfect. If you don't have any of these kind of weights and are using your bath scale to weight some object you want to use, like a cement block or something, no "weigh" I would trust the displayed value to be accurate. Also, how would you know your digital torque gauge is accurate? To have faith in my calibration I would have to do what you did (minus the bathroom scale part)... First calibrate your wrench using iron weights, then check that result against your gauge. Once your verify that your gauge is accurate, then you could use it with confidence. Good video!
Bucket of water works well as a weight.
Add or subtract a few drops until you get it to a convenient weight. Simplifies the math!
This method would work for the value you have chosen, 50 ft lbs in your case but there is far more involved. All torque wrenches are set at factory with three locations tested to ensure overall accuracy at all settings, not just 50 ft lbs. If any one setting is adjusted for during Calibration by a qualified technician then three locations are tested to ensure accuracy through the entire range of the scale. This means you need to check 20%, 60% and 100% of the scale values. It is easy to make a wrench accurate at any one location but in doing so you very likely make the rest inaccurate. Non electronic Torque wrenches are very robust so if your wrench is not accurate then you first need to address why and fix that first. Usually the grease inside is old and has lost its lubrification factor making the movements inside not moving well. It is common during Calibration of a wrench to strip it down and clean it, then add new grease. Then the wrench is fine again after calibration. This means if your wrench is no longer accurate and you simply do what you have mentioned here without addressing the reasons the wrench is no longer accurate, you risk making the wrench only accurate at this one setting. So you must check all three locations mentioned above after any and all adjustments. Each time you make an adjustment you have to check all three locations again. By the way I am certified by Snap On to repair and calibrate torque wrenches.
What would you charge to work on a Snap-on 1/2 drive 50 to 250 foot pound wrench? Nut in the handle came loose in mine this afternoon. Not sure what the model number of it is.
@@timw1573 I am not equipped to test them like this anymore. I did work at it for a time but am retired now. You may not have a real big problem. send me a pic of the wrench and a pic of the loose nut. Or send me the model number.
@@Soniccues Thanks. Sorry I haven't replied back on this; been fairly busy. I think it's a QD3R250. The Snap-on rep was around today and we checked it on his torque check tool. Looks like it's about 20 LBS off. I will try and send you a couple of pictures. I bought a new QD3R250A. I still might want to try and get this other one working and maybe find it a new owner. $120 to send it in to through the rep.
@@timw1573 Top of the line wrench but best that it be calibrated by a tech trained to do so.
Damn, I hate "torque Nazis". If it works at 50ftlbs, it'll work at other settings. I used beam type torque wrenches for decades, never had a problem.
When you orient the wrench horizontally there is an additional weight acting on the wrench that adds to the torque, the weight of the wrench itself acting through its center of mass. If we assume that the mass of the wrench is approximately uniformly distributed long its length we can assume that the center of mass will coincide with the midpoint, for greater accuracy we can balance the wrench on a knife edge and measure the distance from the center of the drive tang to the balance point. As a simple numerical example, suppose the wrench is 16 inches long and weighs 3 lbs. The center of mass distance is about 8 inches, so that the additional torque would be about: (8/12)ft*3lbs = 2 ft*lbs.
It's not a lot, especially if you're measuring large torques, but it is an improvement.
What I would do for a quick and dirty calibration tester would be to either chuck the wrench in the vise in a vertical orientation, eliminating the torque generated by the wrench's weight, or position it on a wheel lugnut in a vertical position. I would then get one of those hand-held digital electronic luggage scales and place the strap around the middle of the handgrip area or the machined groove, if there is one. I would then pull horizontally and read the torque where it clicks and make adjustments accordingly.
Cool video, I just bought my first torque wrench. Sounds like 15 inches is a good measurement to pick if your wrench is long enough. That way the math is always # of pounds times 1.25. Seeing you show how it is just simple math and simple physics, not another expensive tool, is great!
Very very very useful video, thanks man you help me to save tons of money
Anytime Sameh!
You should pull on "the groove" mark on the handle!
Due to construction of click wrench with secondary shaft inside main body you MUST NOT measure directly from the head! Instead you should attach you pull scale right at the groove of the handle and measure from the groove to the middle of the head (socket), then calculate adequate force. Secondary shaft and whole "click" mechanism change geometry of click wrench so typical "length x force" does not apply as it would with simple, solid shaft/bar. Look into construction of click wrenches or service/assembly to get better idea.
Also remember that 1 Newton = 0.1019716213 kilogram-force.
A kilogram-force (symbol: kgf) is a unit of force in the gravitational metric system. It is defined as the magnitude of force applied to one kilogram of mass under the condition of standard gravity (9.80665 m/s2). One kilogram-force is therefore equal to 9.80665 N.
Good luck
Brilliant! This was very helpful.
Thank you for the video
Thanks, very useful method.
This made me laugh. I was thinking to myself, “Now I have to go buy a vice because I don’t have one😭.” Then you said “put it on the lug nut” and I was like HOLY SHIT I HAVE A LUG NUT
I have the old school Craftsman 3/8 click type torque wrench that you have to open up the bottom, plastic cap to adjust. The locking nut has very little clearance for a socket. Do you know what style thin walled socket or tool would fit that?
Thanks for post this video!
Have had this issue ...as it happens wrench is in spec.... still haven't found a way to get at that nut , needle nose pliers don't work for me. Was thinking of cutting handle, replacing nut with one I can get at and then somehow restoring cut off piece OR buying a wrench with different cal method 🙂
Wow great job,thank you
Can the digital toque adapter be calibrated after some time?
Bravo! Very helpful.
Awesome Video. Would you happen to have any instructions on how to calibrate a inch lb torque wrench? The torque wrench that I have is a 10 inch lb torque wrench... On all torque wrench calibration's, do you set your torque wrench at 0, before measuring?
Thanks for your response,
Regards,
JJ
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥 thanks!!!
Good vidéo 👍 👍 👍
Hello,
I have a torque wrench broken at the head because I forced during a tightening, I changed the broken part but it does not click anymore during tightening.
Thank you for telling me give your opinion on the problem.
CORDIALLY
Thank you for the very informative video. I also have a gearwrench end-cap style torque wrench with very little clearance for either a socket or needle-nose pliers. It looks like the nut is 11/16". Does anybody know of a thinwall socket that may work?
Brilliant, thanks
Thank you.
I have a Dodge Ram.
I have to use a deep socket due to the recessed lug nuts. Will a deep socket change anything plus / minus?
Peter
I thought the channel name was an African surname 😂. I’m South African, but then a guy with a strange accent spoke and I’m like oh it is ‘IN The Fast Lane’.
Thanks for this video. I’ll need to sort out my torque wrench as it let me down tightening up my generator overrrun pulley AND stripped my FEAD belt tensioner bolt at ‘45Nm’.
Hat down for effortless using imperial and metric measures!
Calibration at some is correct, so using the rest of the scales is it accurate?
Thanks for the detailed video!! Been trying to find a video that explains everything in simple terms for newbies like myself to understand 🤣
Would it be as accurate to use 12" as the 1 ft/lb mark and whatever you would desire for the weight you are using? Then you would not have to do the math steps. ie: 40 lb weight would indicate 40 ft/lb on torque wrench. 50 lb weight would indicate 50 ft/lb on torque wrench. then adjust torque wrench as desired. Just wondering. Thanks!
I think this is because it's best to hang the weight from somewhere between the middle and end of the handle, where you would put your hand when using the wrench.
Question(s): Didn't you slightly change the length of your torque wrench when you dialed in 50 lb/pounds after you made your length measurement?
Also, didn't you skew the torque reading when you used an adapter with the digital calibrator since you changed the circumference and thus the torque at the Digital meter?
Thanks
I would say yes, it may have changed around 1/8th. But that's okay, because anywhere within that handle grip is where you will be applying pressure. I mention how I like to apply pressure more towards the back of the handle where the silver ring is. Keep in mind all certified and even high end torque wrenches are within 3-4 % accuracy. This is the ANSI standard.
Again with the skew that would still be within the 3-4% accuracy.
The ANSI Standard allows 4% of reading error between 20% and 100% of wrench capacity.
Hope this helps!
I have to say that I had the same concern as wa4aos. I get it that the ANSI standard is 4% accuracy, but that's *for the wrench*. If your calibration method is less than 100% accurate, you have to add that to the total margin of error. Also, where you normally grip the wrench is not relevant. All that affects is how much pressure *you* have to exert to make the wrench apply a certain torque. With this in mind, I can suggest a few things that would make your test a little more accurate.
1. Make your measurement mark on the metal part of the handle which doesn't move in and out like the grip. As you mention in your notes, 12" would make the math simpler.
2. Make your measurement mark as fine and straight as possible....maybe use a fine point sharpie.
3. The strap you're using to hang the weights looks to be pretty thick...what 3/8" or so? Seems like that makes it difficult to center on the mark. Why not use a piece of wire? If that slides, you could apply a piece of duct tape on either side of the mark.
I think each of these steps would add incremental accuracy to your calibration.
@@tommymc51 I think if we hang it in the metal portion that doesn't move, then it won't produce the clicks. I'm not 100% sure. Just my thought 😊
To make it more accurate, we can adjust to 50 and then measure the length.
Hi. I don't understand. Can you explain it a little easier for someone to follow? Maybe the correct of things when doing a recalibration. Thanks.
What is the name of that half inch socket you have in the vice ?
Hmmmm? Maybe I am totally missing something here but. . . His picture states to divide the measuring length by 12. Then, to take that result and multiply the weight by it. But, his narrative states to divide the weight by that number, in his example, 1.25. . . So, which is it? Multiply your weight by the 1.25 result or, divide your weight by the 1.25 result? Also, how would this all be converted to inch pounds?
So if you have a 1/4" or 3/8" torque wrench where the handle is less than 12" long and you decide the line you will hang your weight on is 8" do you use what will amount to a less than 1 ratio to set the wrench compared to actual hanging weight? For example a 20 lb plate weight at 8" from socket center you would dial the wrench to 8"/12"= .667, .667*20=13.3lbs? Would you set your wrench at 13.3 lbs with a 20lb weight hanging 8" out?
Yes,your calculations are right.
My Sealey 3/8 torque wrench has both the end adjustment shown at 1:10 and the grub screw hidden under the rubber grommet so I confused by which I should use to do the calibration.
Can you do this in metric so Nm and kg and meters.
Using weights ignores the weight of the torque wrench itself! A ½" wrench can easily weigh a couple of pounds. And, you can't just add in the weight of the wrench since that weight is distributed along the length of the wrench.
why don't you measure it to the groove in the handle isnt that what its for? also just use a coat hanger to tie everything together....just some thoughts
super
or you can just do 15x40 /12 = 50 - a lot simpler.
What size is the Allen key on the Tekton wrench? I cant seem to find a Allen key to fit.
I'm under the impression it's in between a 7/64 and 1/8 allen key.
7/64 is a 2.7 mm and 1/8 is 3.1 mm. They make a 3mm allen key. That might be what you need.
Thanks
Americans.
@@SirloinBeefBurger That's 'Merican's.🤣
Do I need to set the wrench to 0 ft/lb before measuring and mark the 15 inch on the handle?
Good question. Without it's answer I would not be confident of an accurate calibration.
I was going to ask the same question. I think the best way (I'm going to do it this way) is to first figure the weight you are going to use, then set the wrench and then measure.
@@javirodify yeah I don’t think it matters unless you’re testing zero lbs torque. When you change the torque setting the length of the wrench changes right? So if it’s 15 inches to me it has to be 15” at the weight you’re trying to calibrate at. Otherwise you mark the handle at zero ft/lbs and then set it to 20ft/lbs the mark on the wrench isn’t at 15”
Close, but if you have a mate's torque wrench!?, use his to calibrate yours...!? 🤔 As I did, as he recently bought a new 1, it be alot easier, especially if no weights, or digital scale...., but if I see rear wheel going past front car window, then it wasn't a good idea...lol 😂
as far as you teach tuning for torque wrench. Any number of kilograms must fit in that coal ?
You cant beat the manual way of calibration, 40 lbs is always 40 lbs. The digital adapter could be out of calibration and you wouldnt know it AND there is no way for you to calibrate it.
I can't find the inch multiplier, can I use meters and get the correct result?
Does the digital adapter need to be calibrated over time as well?
No. It's a very simple electronic device. No moving parts. If you open it, there's just a short socket extension with strain gauges glued on in a Wheatstone bridge set up. As long as the electronics work, the factory calibration should stay good.
Where you push makes no difference. It's only important for the testing. The shorter you grip the wrench, the harder it will be to move. The wrench doesn't care.
So if you push right where the outer tubular handle connects through the pivot, you'll have to push really, really hard, but the wrench doesn't care, when you push hard enough it clicks at the same torque, right?
Edit - since there's been no response, here's a hint: No, it doesn't happen that way. "Where you push makes no difference" is a mistaken idea for a dual lever click wrench. If you shorten your grip it measures the torque value wrongly.
If you dialed it in at 50ft/lbs when you test your setting,isn’t it going to click at any setting below 50ft/lbs?
49.9 ft lbs sure. You can feel when it's going to click in and out. When you get to the very max where it has that final click, that's where you leave it. Every torque wrench has a percentage that they're allowed to be off by regulation. +-/4% is the standard.
Nice video but unfortunately nobody uses lb/ft in Europe. We use Nm.
Same math! But, that may be beyond you.
some how my 17$ torque wrench is accurate
And, it ain't a Snappy!
250 inch pounds rated, not foot pounds.
Gotta stop that bench to stop moving! lol
You didn't account for the fact that the weight of the handle is applying some torque to the head of the torque wrench. You also need to set the torque wrench to the desired setting torque setting before measuring where you're going to hang the weight.
You've GOT to be kidding? Torque Nazi!
I think you mean multiply the length by the weight you are going to hang. Not divide
@5:34: Talk about poor design.
completely wrong calibration methodology used 3:17 - you have used the 15'' mark when the handle is way below, but when you adjust the handle to the 50ft-lb mark the length wont remain 15'' and your calculation would be wrong
lmao this guiy has no clue what he is talking about. if you change the distance from pivot point, you are also changing the torque.
It is not accurate calibration
It is very accurate.
Why you hating?
@@Nthefastlane It is accurate with weights because weights from a weight set are usually pretty accurate. However using a bathroom scale to weigh yourself and then whatever weight you are using such as a rotor would be anything but accurate. Take as many bathroom scales as possible and you will usually get a different reading on most of them. So Tyler, he is not hating, just making a fairly true statement.
This 61221 Klutch is 250 inch pounds rated, not foot pounds,
Shitty design on the adjustment point