Thanks for your question! You will need to connect those speakers to an amplifier to use them. Be cautious as the amplifier needs to match the power handling (watts) and impedance (ohms) rating on the speakers.
there's an unthreaded "collar" on the base before you get to the threads. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to insert the wire through the bottom and then fan out the bare internal threads of the speaker wire over the collar of the base. Once fanned around the collar you then screw the base into the top pin and the fanned threads are pinched in between. No bare exposed threads sticking out. Give it a go...
Less is More. Use bare wire and stop any congestion or "bottlenecking" of the electrical signal into the speaker system. Hopefully the binding posts will also be made of pure copper (C110) and a seamless connection will ensue. Even real gold plated binding posts have only 75% of the conductivity of pure copper. Polished brass... 30%... and on and on. Stick with the standard of the industry and let the seamless conductivity of pure copper pave the way. You'll probably save some money doing so.
The banana plug you have demonstrated is not technically the best way. The wire should be drawn in like a tube and then closed. This will prevent a short circuit to the speaker next to you e.g. L and R must not touch as sound will then not be stereo! I suggest you watch this video please and don't leave loose copper wires exposed: ruclips.net/video/7H5fhtF9sEk/видео.html
Thats a different banana plug type. These are open terminal/open screw banana plugs. Look at this video for example: ruclips.net/video/faSWEYtXogI/видео.html
The banana example is horrible. Yeah...go ahead and set it up so a 1/2" of bare copper is sticking out of the side...so it is guaranteed to short out against the other terminal. Seriously...thumbs down...
It was clearly a quick and dirty example, I'm sure the guy wouldn't have done the same on his own set-up. It was just an example of how the procedure would look like.
It is good idea to put some tin at open copper end of wire. And put gloves on, because your skin fat do not improve conductivity between parts. An now all copper in the word are oxygen-free by default production technology.
would like to have seen each one actually plugged in to a speaker.
Uhhmmm ...
@@mannymarc24 "Erm? Uhm? Huh???"
What's the point of this comment???
awesome vid, i'm a noobie on this topic and this is all i needed
Alligator clips... An interesting and less unknown way
Same here, wasn't expecting it.
@@KuroHebi probably that was the last option, as it offers the least surface contact with the clip...
@@khoi83 agreed, doesn't seem like a "quality" option.
My Dude. AMAZING wealth of knowledge and a tremendous help thank you, thank you , thank you. ✌😁👍
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thank you i installed my banana plug correctly
You completely answered my question, thank you!!
Good information. Thanks for posting 👍
Glad it was helpful!
literally cannot get over how he says "speaker wire!" at the very beginning
How can I tell which one goes to the positive and negative. I have clear copper wire that aren’t color coded.
I have the old style speakers which have a red and black button and used the thin speaker wire. What Can I do to connect my speakers?
Thanks for your question! You will need to connect those speakers to an amplifier to use them. Be cautious as the amplifier needs to match the power handling (watts) and impedance (ohms) rating on the speakers.
I laughed a little when he said alligator clips
Old Tech! The question is can I attach this speaker cable on jack extension? I want to connect my speaker to my laptop☺
Having a very difficult time with pin connectors from monoprice
there's an unthreaded "collar" on the base before you get to the threads. I'm pretty sure you're supposed to insert the wire through the bottom and then fan out the bare internal threads of the speaker wire over the collar of the base. Once fanned around the collar you then screw the base into the top pin and the fanned threads are pinched in between. No bare exposed threads sticking out. Give it a go...
Great everything but I'm trying to find
Thanks for the nice video. Where did you buy those spade connectors? Having a hard time find similar online. Thanks!
Instablaster.
Everything is on Amazon these days
Less is More.
Use bare wire and stop any congestion or "bottlenecking" of the electrical signal into the speaker system. Hopefully the binding posts will also be made of pure copper (C110) and a seamless connection will ensue. Even real gold plated binding posts have only 75% of the conductivity of pure copper. Polished brass... 30%... and on and on. Stick with the standard of the industry and let the seamless conductivity of pure copper pave the way. You'll probably save some money doing so.
Garbage. That is the worse termination I have ever seen of a crappy Banana plug connector. Terrible
STOP THE NOISY MUSIC... UNLESS YOU'RE A DRUNK IN A BAR
The banana plug you have demonstrated is not technically the best way. The wire should be drawn in like a tube and then closed. This will prevent a short circuit to the speaker next to you e.g. L and R must not touch as sound will then not be stereo!
I suggest you watch this video please and don't leave loose copper wires exposed:
ruclips.net/video/7H5fhtF9sEk/видео.html
Thats a different banana plug type. These are open terminal/open screw banana plugs.
Look at this video for example: ruclips.net/video/faSWEYtXogI/видео.html
The banana example is horrible. Yeah...go ahead and set it up so a 1/2" of bare copper is sticking out of the side...so it is guaranteed to short out against the other terminal. Seriously...thumbs down...
It was clearly a quick and dirty example, I'm sure the guy wouldn't have done the same on his own set-up. It was just an example of how the procedure would look like.
It is good idea to put some tin at open copper end of wire. And put gloves on, because your skin fat do not improve conductivity between parts. An now all copper in the word are oxygen-free by default production technology.