I recently installed some braided wire to banana plug adapters on the back of my Marantz 2220b to use with newer speakers. I like to move speakers around too, and banana plugs are awesome. I have been a hi-fi nut since 1975 and I never thought about soldering a wire into a loop. I wish I had known this almost 50 years ago!
I have vintage speakers. I use a product from Amazon, CNCESS CESS-220 Pin Banana Plug to 4mm Female Banana Jack/Speaker Wire, 4 Pack (Braided-Type to 4mm). This way I can use banana plugs on my speaker wire. I also use these to connect my speaker wire to my vintage amps where the connecters are the push and clamp kind. For the older AR type of speaker I use 4Pack Y to Banana Female Y-Type Connector Deadbolt Flex Banana Adapter Plug to 4mm Female Bananas Jack Center Surround Wire for Spring Loaded Speaker, also from Amazon. This way whenever I change speakers and amps it's simply plug and play. Nice video. While upgrading my binding posts to a modern banana plug is an option I don't want to lose the vintage feel and value.
Very Nice! I had not seen those before, they are similar to the flexible woven tips I showed in the video to attach to older binding posts, but, it has a female jack on the opposing end to accommodate male connectors like Banana plugs. Thanks so much for sharing!
I am setting up AR4s ❤( gifted from my dad) with my new WIIM amp today and this was exactly what I needed ! I love those AR4s and cannot wait to hear them again. Fantastic tutorial!
I am a fairly new owner of speakers which have connections like the first seen. Recently, when moving houses the nuts have gone missing. Please could I have some advice on sourcing the spade you spoke about and what how to choose the right size spade and nut? Thanks!
Nice and informative video. Thank you. I will be getting a pair of Dynaco A25s and a Marantz 2230. Would you recommend I use a cable that is banana plug to pin connector? I want to use banana plugs on my speakers, but I'm not sure if the other end should be bare wire or angled pin. Hope to hear back from someone. Thank you! 🙏✌️
If you plan to disconnect the speakers often, then the banana plugs that have a forked spade on the opposite end to connect to your speakers are the ones I would recommend. These include a female connector so you can then use male banana plugs on your speaker wire to connect them to your Marantz. Unfortunately, I did not have any to show in the video, but search for spade plug to female banana jack adapter on Amazon and you should find it.
It doesn't seem like you show the "push down" style (3rd introduced). I am looking for info on how to connect that style to a receiver that simply has one left and one right connection.
Interesting video, now if only we can figure out how to plug in our interconnects. Just kidding Scott; it was interesting. At least one of those connectors I didn't know existed. Actually the balanced or DIN inputs on amps, can have more than 3 holes, requiring more than 3 pins (or holes) on the end of your interconnect. I have an integrated amp made in Germany which is a 5 pin. Are 5 pin better than 3? You would think so. What is the difference besides the number of prongs/holes? All I know is it sounds great. Not sure if it is my best interconnect or not. No way I'll ever know, unless I find another 5 pin input amp of exactly the same quality. The 5 pin balanced amp I have, does not have RCA type inputs to A/B. Sometimes amplifiers from the mid 1970s will have those press down and the hole opens for the wire, type of speaker inputs. One I have, is such that inserting one inch of exposed speaker wire is not enough to get any sound. It needs about 2 inches of copper being pushed down into that hole before it makes contact enough with something inside, to get any sound. Getting back to speaker connections, Pierre Sprey the head man at Mapleshade Audio, (who used to design fighter jets), says that using bare wire instead of spades or bananas gives about 5% better sound quality. So if he is right, there are all these people paying hundreds of dollars more for expensive terminations on their speaker cables. Hundreds of dollars more to get 5% less sound quality. 5% degradation to most people might not be that big a deal (clearly audible).To someone like me....well, I wouldn't care to listen to my stereo anymore.
Well, I didn't want to get into the unique amp side connectors. Those odd Pioneer connectors on the x2x series, who thought that was a good idea? And the B&O DIN plugs, yikes! I have some on hand in case I ever need to connect any though.
I do not have experience with the Pioneer connectors or connections, unless I'm not picturing it Scott. The balanced connectors with pins that are the norm in Europe, they say are the best connection. I would guess it is the best connection. Every time you press an RCA ended interconnect in, the outer diameter circle expands and it isn't as tight a connection as pins fitting snugly into holes, and like a new shoe breaking in, the RCA connector could become an even looser gripping connection over time. The balanced connectors with pins are becoming increasingly respected & included on real high end amps; even ones made here in America. Some of the higher end interconnect cables with RCA connector ends, are so tight that you fear ruining your amp terminals having to use so much force to push it in. If you have the top cover off, you can definitely see what's at the inside side of the back panel severely arching as you push the interconnect in. Some cable makers find tightness of the cables against the input terminals to be so important, that they have a material surrounding the copper or gold RCA connector that is heat shrink. I think you hold a hair dryer up to it and it shrinks; making the metal part of the connector clamp down on the terminal with a vise like grip. Try removing that someday though, if you overdo it
I used to restore lots of Vintage. Got sick of flimsy binding posts or (ugh). clips. I installed new 5-ways and use banana plugs. Incidentally, there are two vintage speakers you might want to check out. B&W dm7. Back when they had a GOOD (polyester) tweeter and fair prices. And the Snell type C.
I heard a pair of good vintage circa mid 1990s Snells versus Vandersteen 2 speakers. Not sure of the suffix, after the 2 on the Vandy, or if it wasn't just the original model without suffixes. I commented that the Snells had better transient response. The well thinking salesman countered with "But which ones get you into the music more?" He was right; it was the Vandersteen by quite a bit. The Vandersteen speakers were driven by over the top good, British tube amps by an amp company called Beard. Not sure if the Snells were being driven by something different. The source and preamp was the same. I take a look at Snell prices on the internet and more importantly, actual selling prices. Their prices do not seem to be escalating; at least the models I've looked up. There is one model in particular that 10 years ago, that used in nice condition wouldn't have lasted a week on ebay without selling at around $700. Fairly recently that same speaker model was listed for a year at $400, and no takers.
@@sidesup8286 I can believe it. Vandy was about unboxed, transparent, pure music. The early 2's had limited vertical dispersion. I had some 2ce (vifa aluminum tweeter) but sold them due to a move. I am really chomping at the bit for 2ce sig III's (scan speak tweeter) . The closest vandy dealer to me is 3 hours away and has discontinued them. I cannot remember the sound of Snell, I heard some two ways decades ago. But, I don't doubt that they are LESS musical than vandys.
The Snells I heard, were more of an analytical sounding speaker. There is a hint that the sound is coming out of a box; the absence of which is what makes the Vandersteens so refreshing. I wonder if Richard Vandersteen got his idea of mounting the midrange and tweeter out of the cabinet from the KEF 105 model? I do believe the KEF was on the market a few years before the Vandersteen 2. The Snell type Q was an interesting little speaker that Stereophile gave a good review to. It was small and not much bass, but it was an imaging champ some say, circa late 1980s. It had a forward facing tweeter and also a rear firing tweeter on the back. It was expensive at $900 a pair circa 1988 for such a small speaker. I wonder if the even more expensive Wilson Watt gave Snell the idea to come out with that speaker? The Watt was also an imaging champ along with the Celestion SL 600 back around when the Vandy 2 was released.
I have a pair of Model 6 KLH's and the binding posts don't tell you which is positive/negative. Any guidance on that (there's even 3 binding posts on mine: A, B and C, B and C are crossbinded
Welcome. Way back, this was how they allowed bi-amping. The left terminal is typically always ground (A), then B & C are lower and upper frequencies, respectively. Today, manufacturers have two SETS of binding posts, but in early KLH and AR, they shared the ground (A). The strap is so you can use one amp to power the speaker. Hope that helps.
@@stereonicheI’m still not sure how exactly to hook up my wires from the receiver properly with these. Black (negative) to the A post and red (positive) to the B post?
There is a easy way to detect the 'positive' binding post. If you can take the grille off, take a AAA ou AA normal battery, connecting wires to its poles. Touch the wires coming from the battery to the speaker binding posts, looking at the woofer cone. You will see that at the moment of connection the woofer cone makes a small movement. The direction of this movement is related with the poles of the battery connected. Reversing the position of the poles of the battery connected to the binding posts, the woofer cone movement (at the moment of connection) is reversed. Select the batery poles connected to the binding posts so the woofer cone moves in FRONT, that is in the direction opposed of its magnet position. THEN, the positive binding post is the one connected to the positive pole of the small battery. Mark the + binding post for future reference. Repeat for the other loudspeaker box of the pair. Done!
for the first speaker just use the plain wire and do it up tight, dont use the fork and definitly dont solder the wire. for the second and third speakers again just use the speaker wire, dont waste your money on "terminating" your speaker cable with made in china(usually *brass* ) connectors. the most direct connection between your amp and speakers is the best, extra connectors just not needed and can only degrade the sound.
Ahh, the "shortest distance between two places" purest. That is all fine as well, however, most all new speakers of any quality have 5 way binding posts for using high quality connectors. But again, not required and you should do as you feel is correct. If you are worried about a little solder, then what do you do about all those solder joints in your amp? :-)
@@stereoniche not so much the "shortest distance between two places" but more the *least resistance* ! ! everytime you add a connector you add resistance to the path, plus a change of conductor material. always tighten your terminals up well, *resistance decreases to the inverse square of contact pressure increase* . if you havent tried it already, get yourself some genuine OCC cable(i like neotech). been collecting vintage rotel for years, but still consider myself a noob on this hi-fi journey.
@@sidesup8286 Back in the early 80's, I was in an electronics "college" for an associate degree (dropped and went to a 4 yr college for business) and the instructor must have been Finnish or, perhaps, from the UK as they pronounce it Sol-der as well. Seems most of the U.S. use "sodder" as that is more in line with the French pronunciation, soudure. 🙂
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I recently installed some braided wire to banana plug adapters on the back of my Marantz 2220b to use with newer speakers. I like to move speakers around too, and banana plugs are awesome. I have been a hi-fi nut since 1975 and I never thought about soldering a wire into a loop. I wish I had known this almost 50 years ago!
Sadly, RUclips was not available then! 🙂
I have vintage speakers. I use a product from Amazon, CNCESS CESS-220 Pin Banana Plug to 4mm Female Banana Jack/Speaker Wire, 4 Pack (Braided-Type to 4mm). This way I can use banana plugs on my speaker wire. I also use these to connect my speaker wire to my vintage amps where the connecters are the push and clamp kind. For the older AR type of speaker I use 4Pack Y to Banana Female Y-Type Connector Deadbolt Flex Banana Adapter Plug to 4mm Female Bananas Jack Center Surround Wire for Spring Loaded Speaker, also from Amazon. This way whenever I change speakers and amps it's simply plug and play. Nice video. While upgrading my binding posts to a modern banana plug is an option I don't want to lose the vintage feel and value.
Very Nice! I had not seen those before, they are similar to the flexible woven tips I showed in the video to attach to older binding posts, but, it has a female jack on the opposing end to accommodate male connectors like Banana plugs. Thanks so much for sharing!
I am setting up AR4s ❤( gifted from my dad) with my new WIIM amp today and this was exactly what I needed ! I love those AR4s and cannot wait to hear them again. Fantastic tutorial!
Excellent! Glad to hear it helped and hope you are enjoying those AR's again!
I thought I’d never need this video and then I found some Heresy II’s 😂😂😂 thanks for the video
Glad to hear it was helpful!
I am a fairly new owner of speakers which have connections like the first seen. Recently, when moving houses the nuts have gone missing. Please could I have some advice on sourcing the spade you spoke about and what how to choose the right size spade and nut? Thanks!
Many vintage speakers use 8-32 knurled nuts like these at Home Depot: tinyurl.com/3w7puebe
For spades, something like these: tinyurl.com/2sdtvam4
My speaker Poineer CS 339 wire got broken right at the black stub fixed at the rear of speaker. How to fix it . Kindly advise
Based on your description, you will need to remove the woofer and resolder the binding post.
I'm giving this a thumbs up 👍🏻 just on the intro music alone sir.. 🤘🏻
Has a nice gritty guitar riff that is catchy.
Nice and informative video. Thank you. I will be getting a pair of Dynaco A25s and a Marantz 2230. Would you recommend I use a cable that is banana plug to pin connector? I want to use banana plugs on my speakers, but I'm not sure if the other end should be bare wire or angled pin. Hope to hear back from someone. Thank you! 🙏✌️
If you plan to disconnect the speakers often, then the banana plugs that have a forked spade on the opposite end to connect to your speakers are the ones I would recommend. These include a female connector so you can then use male banana plugs on your speaker wire to connect them to your Marantz. Unfortunately, I did not have any to show in the video, but search for spade plug to female banana jack adapter on Amazon and you should find it.
Does anyone know specifically what those woven wire plus are called?
Try searching for Braided speaker Connector or Flex pin speaker connector
It doesn't seem like you show the "push down" style (3rd introduced). I am looking for info on how to connect that style to a receiver that simply has one left and one right connection.
What is the manufacturer/model?
Interesting video, now if only we can figure out how to plug in our interconnects. Just kidding Scott; it was interesting. At least one of those connectors I didn't know existed. Actually the balanced or DIN inputs on amps, can have more than 3 holes, requiring more than 3 pins (or holes) on the end of your interconnect. I have an integrated amp made in Germany which is a 5 pin. Are 5 pin better than 3? You would think so. What is the difference besides the number of prongs/holes? All I know is it sounds great. Not sure if it is my best interconnect or not. No way I'll ever know, unless I find another 5 pin input amp of exactly the same quality. The 5 pin balanced amp I have, does not have RCA type inputs to A/B.
Sometimes amplifiers from the mid 1970s will have those press down and the hole opens for the wire, type of speaker inputs. One I have, is such that inserting one inch of exposed speaker wire is not enough to get any sound. It needs about 2 inches of copper being pushed down into that hole before it makes contact enough with something inside, to get any sound. Getting back to speaker connections, Pierre Sprey the head man at Mapleshade Audio, (who used to design fighter jets), says that using bare wire instead of spades or bananas gives about 5% better sound quality. So if he is right, there are all these people paying hundreds of dollars more for expensive terminations on their speaker cables. Hundreds of dollars more to get 5% less sound quality. 5% degradation to most people might not be that big a deal (clearly audible).To someone like me....well, I wouldn't care to listen to my stereo anymore.
Well, I didn't want to get into the unique amp side connectors. Those odd Pioneer connectors on the x2x series, who thought that was a good idea? And the B&O DIN plugs, yikes! I have some on hand in case I ever need to connect any though.
I do not have experience with the Pioneer connectors or connections, unless I'm not picturing it Scott. The balanced connectors with pins that are the norm in Europe, they say are the best connection. I would guess it is the best connection. Every time you press an RCA ended interconnect in, the outer diameter circle expands and it isn't as tight a connection as pins fitting snugly into holes, and like a new shoe breaking in, the RCA connector could become an even looser gripping connection over time. The balanced connectors with pins are becoming increasingly respected & included on real high end amps; even ones made here in America. Some of the higher end interconnect cables with RCA connector ends, are so tight that you fear ruining your amp terminals having to use so much force to push it in. If you have the top cover off, you can definitely see what's at the inside side of the back panel severely arching as you push the interconnect in. Some cable makers find tightness of the cables against the input terminals to be so important, that they have a material surrounding the copper or gold RCA connector that is heat shrink. I think you hold a hair dryer up to it and it shrinks; making the metal part of the connector clamp down on the terminal with a vise like grip. Try removing that someday though, if you overdo it
What is the happened to the spring lever option?
It was replaced, for the most part, by 5 way binding posts for most all speakers.
@@stereoniche thanks
" Git yor Nutt On " my favorite part of the video..
Gotta have some good catch phrases! 🙂
If i upgrad the bindingpost on my ar18, will it go down in price if i want to sell them? Reconing it while watching this👍
I think for that model, an upgrade.
I used to restore lots of Vintage. Got sick of flimsy binding posts or (ugh). clips. I installed new 5-ways and use banana plugs. Incidentally, there are two vintage speakers you might want to check out. B&W dm7. Back when they had a GOOD (polyester) tweeter and fair prices. And the Snell type C.
The crappy posts can certainly be frustrating. I just missed a set of Snell E that I was interested in picking up, but the C is also on my radar.
I heard a pair of good vintage circa mid 1990s Snells versus Vandersteen 2 speakers. Not sure of the suffix, after the 2 on the Vandy, or if it wasn't just the original model without suffixes. I commented that the Snells had better transient response. The well thinking salesman countered with "But which ones get you into the music more?" He was right; it was the Vandersteen by quite a bit. The Vandersteen speakers were driven by over the top good, British tube amps by an amp company called Beard. Not sure if the Snells were being driven by something different. The source and preamp was the same. I take a look at Snell prices on the internet and more importantly, actual selling prices. Their prices do not seem to be escalating; at least the models I've looked up. There is one model in particular that 10 years ago, that used in nice condition wouldn't have lasted a week on ebay without selling at around $700. Fairly recently that same speaker model was listed for a year at $400, and no takers.
@@sidesup8286 I can believe it. Vandy was about unboxed, transparent, pure music. The early 2's had limited vertical dispersion. I had some 2ce (vifa aluminum tweeter) but sold them due to a move. I am really chomping at the bit for 2ce sig III's (scan speak tweeter) . The closest vandy dealer to me is 3 hours away and has discontinued them. I cannot remember the sound of Snell, I heard some two ways decades ago. But, I don't doubt that they are LESS musical than vandys.
@@stereoniche generally, they have openings large enough for AWG 16 gauge. That, and corrosion.
The Snells I heard, were more of an analytical sounding speaker. There is a hint that the sound is coming out of a box; the absence of which is what makes the Vandersteens so refreshing. I wonder if Richard Vandersteen got his idea of mounting the midrange and tweeter out of the cabinet from the KEF 105 model? I do believe the KEF was on the market a few years before the Vandersteen 2. The Snell type Q was an interesting little speaker that Stereophile gave a good review to. It was small and not much bass, but it was an imaging champ some say, circa late 1980s. It had a forward facing tweeter and also a rear firing tweeter on the back. It was expensive at $900 a pair circa 1988 for such a small speaker. I wonder if the even more expensive Wilson Watt gave Snell the idea to come out with that speaker? The Watt was also an imaging champ along with the Celestion SL 600 back around when the Vandy 2 was released.
I have a pair of Model 6 KLH's and the binding posts don't tell you which is positive/negative. Any guidance on that (there's even 3 binding posts on mine: A, B and C, B and C are crossbinded
Welcome. Way back, this was how they allowed bi-amping. The left terminal is typically always ground (A), then B & C are lower and upper frequencies, respectively. Today, manufacturers have two SETS of binding posts, but in early KLH and AR, they shared the ground (A). The strap is so you can use one amp to power the speaker. Hope that helps.
@@stereonicheI’m still not sure how exactly to hook up my wires from the receiver properly with these. Black (negative) to the A post and red (positive) to the B post?
@@dtentser Connect your ground (-) to A, then the + to either B or C, but be sure to leave B/C crossbinded.
There is a easy way to detect the 'positive' binding post. If you can take the grille off, take a AAA ou AA normal battery, connecting wires to its poles.
Touch the wires coming from the battery to the speaker binding posts, looking at the woofer cone. You will see that at the moment of connection the woofer cone makes a small movement. The direction of this movement is related with the poles of the battery connected.
Reversing the position of the poles of the battery connected to the binding posts, the woofer cone movement (at the moment of connection) is reversed.
Select the batery poles connected to the binding posts so the woofer cone moves in FRONT, that is in the direction opposed of its magnet position. THEN, the positive binding post is the one connected to the positive pole of the small battery. Mark the + binding post for future reference.
Repeat for the other loudspeaker box of the pair. Done!
Where is the dent weel?
Hmm, that is a mystery.
for the first speaker just use the plain wire and do it up tight, dont use the fork and definitly dont solder the wire. for the second and third speakers again just use the speaker wire, dont waste your money on "terminating" your speaker cable with made in china(usually *brass* ) connectors. the most direct connection between your amp and speakers is the best, extra connectors just not needed and can only degrade the sound.
Ahh, the "shortest distance between two places" purest. That is all fine as well, however, most all new speakers of any quality have 5 way binding posts for using high quality connectors. But again, not required and you should do as you feel is correct. If you are worried about a little solder, then what do you do about all those solder joints in your amp? :-)
@@stereoniche not so much the "shortest distance between two places" but more the *least resistance* ! ! everytime you add a connector you add resistance to the path, plus a change of conductor material. always tighten your terminals up well, *resistance decreases to the inverse square of contact pressure increase* . if you havent tried it already, get yourself some genuine OCC cable(i like neotech). been collecting vintage rotel for years, but still consider myself a noob on this hi-fi journey.
It's sod-er not soul-der. Thank You fine video.
LOL
In a certain few regions of Finland (Finlandia), they do pronounce it sol-der.
@@sidesup8286 Back in the early 80's, I was in an electronics "college" for an associate degree (dropped and went to a 4 yr college for business) and the instructor must have been Finnish or, perhaps, from the UK as they pronounce it Sol-der as well. Seems most of the U.S. use "sodder" as that is more in line with the French pronunciation, soudure. 🙂