I have a set of Takomo 101s Decided to try the 201s, but like you, I got heads only. My shaft of choice was Project X taper tip LZ. I did this before your video on the constant weight shafts. Still don't get it. All my other sets are using parallel shafts, and I weigh all of them. It's interesting that most of the weight on the parallel shafts is on the tip end. Did not expect that Back to my Takomo 201s. Ferrules are an issue for me. Most of the stuff I get from Golfworks is too small. BB&F is too expensive. I'll order some to see if the size is right, but I want a regular look. My 201's look beautiful. Plain black ferrules and PURE gray grips. Next job is checking loft and lie.
These are all great videos…after getting completely ripped off at a big named fitter last year, I’m resigned to learn all this and just do my own clubs…I’ve dabbled with different aspects in the past, so pretty familiar…I have a lie/loft machine and have fiddled with counter weights in the butt end, etc, but nothing serious…So, you showed how you did the swing weights of some of the clubs and then skipped to the part where you said certain clubs were getting one tip weight added, and other clubs were getting a different tip weight added, but didn’t say why? I’m guessing to get them all to the same swing weight? Question: Swing weight doesn’t necessarily indicate overall weight, just the balance of where the weight is, so what sort of weight difference should you see from club to club, assuming you are using consistent weight shafts and not AMT shafts? I’m working on a blended set at the moment. I already have the T100S irons from 9-GW and ordered shafts to put in the 6-8 T200 iron. Since my T100S irons came already assembled, I’m guessing I should just work off of them with my weights, but I’m sure the heads for the T200 are not in step with the T100S iron heads…am I on the right track in my thinking?
BTW I have finally been able to test the driver shaft swap that I mentioned….The Accra T50 M4 shaft into 2018 Rogue. The shaft was removed by GolfGalaxy with new Calloway adapter. Only sue was there was rattling inside the shaft once it was finally installed with the head. ARGH!!! The grip needed to be replaced anyway so I put a new one on using the air compressor technique. Worked great. Removed piece of glue that was rattling. But had another rattle after taking it to the course. Same issue piece of glue. Glad I learned the AC technique. BTW I didn’t even use a nozzle or vice. Cool!!!
cool video..can wait for Pt 2. Maybe i missed it buy Why "air" install on the grips instead of solvent?...does it make a difference when doing it the "air" install way?
You can do either. These PURE grips really work well with air. Makes both install and removal super easy. Good for someone like me who is always changing things.
I don't get the constant weight thing. I'm considering buying a set of these heads. I already have a set of Takomo 101 irons. I've been a fan of building clubs for over 30 years, but you're the first one that I've ever seen pounding this constant weight concept. If it's such a big deal why are almost all clubhead makers using parallel tip .370 hosels?
Where do you get all your clubmaking components and tools from? Golfworks is out of stock or backordered for almost everything I want to order, including all the stuff I see in your videos.
Measuring tool: www.golfworks.com/maltby-bench-top-club-length-ruler/p/ma2010/ Swingweight scale (not exact model I believe but similar): www.golfworks.com/auditor-pro-shop-swing-weight-scale/p/gm1009/
I really enjoy watching your videos. I have 2 questions. First : what swing weight do you prefer for irons .. D1 or D2? Second : can you share the model name for the air compressor?
Iron SW I try to keep between D1-D3 depending on the setup. I have also played some D0 setups and hit them well. The compressor is the Kobalt Air Inflator.
I bought a set of golf clubs and the guy forgot to tell me they were one half inch over standard length and two degrees up in lie. I had the LIE adjusted today and I would like to know if I can just butt cut the irons leaving the grip on and put some kind of plug in the end without trying to pull the grips and lose them. Surely there is some kind of butt plug out there somewhere to fit a golf shaft.
Never seen one. Might need to create it yourself. Other option is just play them choking down 1/2 inch. Once it's time to replace the grips, you could cut them at that point.
Few different counter weight options available. Tour Lock are the ones I know best. Can also just wrap lead tape under the grip, though this will thicken it up some.
Got a shaft "quality" question. I've got some Takomo 101 heads coming and trying to decide on shaft choice. I've got mamiya recoil 670 F3 on older set and like them. Question is mamiya 460 esx or mamiya dart? Both have .370 tip. I'm 67 and playing about 6 1/2 years, shoot mid 80's from Sr. tees. Will be doing this with a buddy. Big hands 2xl glove with Winn oversize grip. Thanks.
I would say not a big difference between the 2. Have not built any Darts but did just do a set of Takomo 201s with the 460 shafts and the client really liked them.
Hey AJ. I’m planning on building a set of 101’s. My swing speed is between 80 and 90 mph. It’s right on the line to go regular or stiff shaft. What’s your recommendation?
I have a similar tire inflator and one of those green Pure grip doohickeys. But for the life of me I can’t attach them to each other. How did you do it?
Trip to the hardware store to by a couple pieces to downsize the tip. I would just take the Pure tip with you and see what you can come up with. Mine works but isn't pretty!
It's on the Pure Grips website. $10-$11. You will however need to figure out how to attach it if you are using a tire inflator. I had to downsize the male end. Spent 30 minutes in the hardware store for that.
Interesting never seen the grips put on with air before. Do you never use the spline of the shaft, I have seen others do this. I am a complete novice on this so maybe asking a dumb question.
Spine finding or alignment is of no real value. Depending on method used, it may tell you the stiffest side but that really isn't important. Use good quality shafts with correct weights, bend profiles, and flexes. That is the key.
@@EFGMC Thank you for the reply, I have seen other videos where it is claimed it does make a difference. I assume all variables must make some difference, just if that difference is enough to notice the gain? As I said I am a complete novice on this so trying to learn from people who are experts in the field and work out why they have differing views.
@@adrianjackman9422 If you find someone who will do it for free or at minimal cost then I say whatever. If someone tries to charge you more than a few dollars for it, kindly decline since it won't make any difference except making your wallet lighter.
So this setup was, $400 for 201 heads 4-p $37 per shaft (TT Elevate Tour) $12 per grip (Pure Pro) $40 for set of BB&F ferrules. $110 per club for the component pieces When I do custom builds I charge $30 per club for assembly/loft lie adjustments.
Hey AJ, question about your shaft selection. I'm currently using graphite Recoil 95 S shafts and thinking of going back to something a little heavier. Playing Mizuno JPX HM Pros, but can't hold greens. These are definitely low spin heads (could be the shaft/head combo?). Do you think the Elevate would add spin to compensate holding greens better? I'm an 8 HC, strike my irons pretty well. Like the forgiveness in the heads, but need more spin. Thoughts?
So the best way to add spin is going to be either weakening your lofts or switching to a different ball. Shaft can do a little but not nearly as much as those. Going heavier in shafts isn't usually going to help add spin either as a general rule, though there are exceptions.
This is the PURE grip attachment. Required a downsizing coupler as the thread end was larger than the standard car tire valve stem size of the tire inflator.
Depends how much you care about swing weights. You can just take a traditional set and build them all to the same length, adjust all the lie angles accordingly and go, but the SW will be all over the place. You could get them closer with lead tape in the long irons, however the short irons will still be heavy. Can't say if this would work for you, would just need to try it and see.
Actually the gapping with these was very good. As good as I usually see from any big OEM brand. Modifying head weight is not about quality in most cases, it's about finding the right feel once you factor in shaft weight, balance, and length.
Attention to detail was superb. Particularly enjoyed sanding the shims. Never done that, but will do from now on 👍
Appreciate it. I'm honestly the only person I've known to do it, but it just makes sense to me.
Excellent video, a great demonstration of how to professionally build a set of irons.
I have a set of Takomo 101s Decided to try the 201s, but like you, I got heads only. My shaft of choice was Project X taper tip LZ. I did this before your video on the constant weight shafts. Still don't get it. All my other sets are using parallel shafts, and I weigh all of them. It's interesting that most of the weight on the parallel shafts is on the tip end. Did not expect that
Back to my Takomo 201s. Ferrules are an issue for me. Most of the stuff I get from Golfworks is too small. BB&F is too expensive. I'll order some to see if the size is right, but I want a regular look.
My 201's look beautiful. Plain black ferrules and PURE gray grips. Next job is checking loft and lie.
Nice job AJ and a great watch. I have been wanting to see how this is done for years. Informative and enjoyable.
These are all great videos…after getting completely ripped off at a big named fitter last year, I’m resigned to learn all this and just do my own clubs…I’ve dabbled with different aspects in the past, so pretty familiar…I have a lie/loft machine and have fiddled with counter weights in the butt end, etc, but nothing serious…So, you showed how you did the swing weights of some of the clubs and then skipped to the part where you said certain clubs were getting one tip weight added, and other clubs were getting a different tip weight added, but didn’t say why? I’m guessing to get them all to the same swing weight? Question: Swing weight doesn’t necessarily indicate overall weight, just the balance of where the weight is, so what sort of weight difference should you see from club to club, assuming you are using consistent weight shafts and not AMT shafts? I’m working on a blended set at the moment. I already have the T100S irons from 9-GW and ordered shafts to put in the 6-8 T200 iron. Since my T100S irons came already assembled, I’m guessing I should just work off of them with my weights, but I’m sure the heads for the T200 are not in step with the T100S iron heads…am I on the right track in my thinking?
I enjoy watching your videos. I would be interested in your review comparison of these and the Apex DCBs.
BTW I have finally been able to test the driver shaft swap that I mentioned….The Accra T50 M4 shaft into 2018 Rogue. The shaft was removed by GolfGalaxy with new Calloway adapter. Only sue was there was rattling inside the shaft once it was finally installed with the head. ARGH!!! The grip needed to be replaced anyway so I put a new one on using the air compressor technique. Worked great. Removed piece of glue that was rattling. But had another rattle after taking it to the course. Same issue piece of glue. Glad I learned the AC technique. BTW I didn’t even use a nozzle or vice. Cool!!!
Taking the grips back off may be the best part of the air method!
You convinced me to give them a try! Thx
Great video. Can you share the swing weights for each club? I always struggle to find what would best suit each club. Many thanks Patrick
These are all D3. Usually I like the longest and shortest clubs to go 1 SWP higher and lower (4i = D2, PW = D4). These I did all the same though.
Looks good 👍🏻 nice choice of components as well. Can't wait for your test.
Rather than the brass shims- why not go with the PXG adaptors? They work great.
Custom clubs are the answer!
Wow! Just wow!
cool video..can wait for Pt 2. Maybe i missed it buy Why "air" install on the grips instead of solvent?...does it make a difference when doing it the "air" install way?
You can do either. These PURE grips really work well with air. Makes both install and removal super easy. Good for someone like me who is always changing things.
What was the powder you added and what is the purpose of brass shim? I haven't seen the shim being installed before.
I just watched the 2nd and I now see the purpose for the brass shim.
I don't get the constant weight thing. I'm considering buying a set of these heads. I already have a set of Takomo 101 irons. I've been a fan of building clubs for over 30 years, but you're the first one that I've ever seen pounding this constant weight concept. If it's such a big deal why are almost all clubhead makers using parallel tip .370 hosels?
Love your videos. Where's the best place to get pure grips?
The PURE website is going to have the best selection I think. I am going to have them in my shop as the fitting grip in the studio.
Good video AJ ! however when it comes to graphite shaft, constant weight shafts, we dont have that much options. most of them 370tip one length..
There are some good options. Not as many as steel but. Steelfiber, Recoil, and KBS all have constant weight options worth exploring.
@@EFGMC unfortunately they are so much more expensive in my country. Cant wait for the 101 build video!!!
Where do you get all your clubmaking components and tools from? Golfworks is out of stock or backordered for almost everything I want to order, including all the stuff I see in your videos.
Golfworks, eBay, some homemade. All my Golfworks stuff is a few years old now so can't say what's available or not.
Do you not pure your iron shafts when you build and if not why, always enjoy your vids
I don't. I've done a couple vids on this topic. Links here.
ruclips.net/video/EoTf0d-Aiz4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/G07mO85LFyE/видео.html
What kind of shaft measuring tool and then swingweight scale are you using? Awesome vid!
Measuring tool: www.golfworks.com/maltby-bench-top-club-length-ruler/p/ma2010/
Swingweight scale (not exact model I believe but similar): www.golfworks.com/auditor-pro-shop-swing-weight-scale/p/gm1009/
I am so pumped, I only have a few Insta bros. See you soon bro!
great video! what is that powder you added to the epoxy?
Shafting beads. Just help center the fit of an already good fit.
I really enjoy watching your videos.
I have 2 questions.
First : what swing weight do you prefer for irons .. D1 or D2?
Second : can you share the model name for the air compressor?
Iron SW I try to keep between D1-D3 depending on the setup. I have also played some D0 setups and hit them well.
The compressor is the Kobalt Air Inflator.
I bought a set of golf clubs and the guy forgot to tell me they were one half inch over standard length and two degrees up in lie. I had the LIE adjusted today and I would like to know if I can just butt cut the irons leaving the grip on and put some kind of plug in the end without trying to pull the grips and lose them. Surely there is some kind of butt plug out there somewhere to fit a golf shaft.
Never seen one. Might need to create it yourself. Other option is just play them choking down 1/2 inch. Once it's time to replace the grips, you could cut them at that point.
sorry my friend but I jist don't do instagram
Nice video. I have a iron with a graphite shaft that I want to move the balance point up. What can I use to add weight to the butt end?
Few different counter weight options available. Tour Lock are the ones I know best. Can also just wrap lead tape under the grip, though this will thicken it up some.
Got a shaft "quality" question. I've got some Takomo 101 heads coming and trying to decide on shaft choice. I've got mamiya recoil 670 F3 on older set and like them. Question is mamiya 460 esx or mamiya dart? Both have .370 tip. I'm 67 and playing about 6 1/2 years, shoot mid 80's from Sr. tees. Will be doing this with a buddy. Big hands 2xl glove with Winn oversize grip. Thanks.
I would say not a big difference between the 2. Have not built any Darts but did just do a set of Takomo 201s with the 460 shafts and the client really liked them.
@@EFGMC ok, thanks appreciate your input and all your videos!
Hey AJ. I’m planning on building a set of 101’s. My swing speed is between 80 and 90 mph. It’s right on the line to go regular or stiff shaft. What’s your recommendation?
I always recommend going softer if in between.
I have a similar tire inflator and one of those green Pure grip doohickeys. But for the life of me I can’t attach them to each other. How did you do it?
Trip to the hardware store to by a couple pieces to downsize the tip. I would just take the Pure tip with you and see what you can come up with. Mine works but isn't pretty!
Would you be able to link the attachment you use on the compressor to install/remove grips?
It's on the Pure Grips website. $10-$11. You will however need to figure out how to attach it if you are using a tire inflator. I had to downsize the male end. Spent 30 minutes in the hardware store for that.
Do the shims and weights come with the iron head order?
No, you have to buy them separately from a club building site like Golfworks.
Interesting never seen the grips put on with air before. Do you never use the spline of the shaft, I have seen others do this. I am a complete novice on this so maybe asking a dumb question.
Spine finding or alignment is of no real value. Depending on method used, it may tell you the stiffest side but that really isn't important. Use good quality shafts with correct weights, bend profiles, and flexes. That is the key.
@@EFGMC Thank you for the reply, I have seen other videos where it is claimed it does make a difference. I assume all variables must make some difference, just if that difference is enough to notice the gain? As I said I am a complete novice on this so trying to learn from people who are experts in the field and work out why they have differing views.
@@adrianjackman9422 If you find someone who will do it for free or at minimal cost then I say whatever. If someone tries to charge you more than a few dollars for it, kindly decline since it won't make any difference except making your wallet lighter.
Shims? Are the Takomos bored out for .355T?
Can you bend these to add or decrease loft?
Yes, very soft.
Do you order your shafts from the manufacturer
I now have accounts with some of the manufacturers like True Temper and Fujikura however if I need something else I usually go through Golfworks.
What ended up being the total weight of the PW and 7 iron?
Don't remember any more. New sticks in the bag now.
Is there anyway you could work on some clubs or is it just a hobby?
Email me aj@smartstake.com
What is the cost average???like per club iron etc..thanks...
So this setup was,
$400 for 201 heads 4-p
$37 per shaft (TT Elevate Tour)
$12 per grip (Pure Pro)
$40 for set of BB&F ferrules.
$110 per club for the component pieces
When I do custom builds I charge $30 per club for assembly/loft lie adjustments.
Hey AJ, question about your shaft selection. I'm currently using graphite Recoil 95 S shafts and thinking of going back to something a little heavier. Playing Mizuno JPX HM Pros, but can't hold greens. These are definitely low spin heads (could be the shaft/head combo?). Do you think the Elevate would add spin to compensate holding greens better? I'm an 8 HC, strike my irons pretty well. Like the forgiveness in the heads, but need more spin. Thoughts?
So the best way to add spin is going to be either weakening your lofts or switching to a different ball. Shaft can do a little but not nearly as much as those.
Going heavier in shafts isn't usually going to help add spin either as a general rule, though there are exceptions.
@@EFGMC Can you recommend somewhere I could buy a set of heads to "trial build" a set of irons? Something used and forged maybe?
@@kevinstanley5945 Honestly I would start on Ebay. Can often find just heads there.
What grip install nozzle are you using? I have looked at them; but never can decide which one to buy.
This is the PURE grip attachment. Required a downsizing coupler as the thread end was larger than the standard car tire valve stem size of the tire inflator.
@@EFGMC Thank you
hi, is there a viable way to make a variable iron set into a single length one?
Depends how much you care about swing weights. You can just take a traditional set and build them all to the same length, adjust all the lie angles accordingly and go, but the SW will be all over the place. You could get them closer with lead tape in the long irons, however the short irons will still be heavy. Can't say if this would work for you, would just need to try it and see.
@@EFGMC thx a lot
Alot of added weights.. is the precisions of the heads that bad.?
A set of Miura a friend made had 0 added weights!
Actually the gapping with these was very good. As good as I usually see from any big OEM brand. Modifying head weight is not about quality in most cases, it's about finding the right feel once you factor in shaft weight, balance, and length.
400$ I will buy em
That’s a lot of epoxy.
That what happens with shimming. Most of the epoxy on the shim and shaft gets scraped off as it enters the hosel.