I love Double-Breasted suits because they have more details and it really makes you feel like you are wearing an elegant coat rather than just a normal suit. Thanks for the video explaining how everything works!
Dear Mark, if you'd listened to the purists in many areas, life would be so boring and codified. Let's break free, even in double-breasted suits ! Hugo
I hate all of the "artificial" rules around style. Yes, certain things about proportion, color combinations, etc. are objectively appealing and flattering. But I will button or unbutton my buttons as I see fit.
Jacomet is a true thinker because he gives us actual first principles to go on as well as history. This is so much more edifying than merely listing rules, because it shows us how the rules come about and moreover enriches our sartorial education. He covers every subject comprehensively as we see here.
Just last week I picked up my first double breasted suit from Prague’s master taylor, Mr. Hartl. I told him about this RUclips channel while we were doing the last fitting and handover of the final suit, and he showed me both of your books, the Italian and also the Parisian gentleman 🙂. The suit is made of grey flannel, for the winter. Time to wear it these days!
Thank you! It is my first double breasted suit and also my first flannel suit. I love the look of it and cant wait to wear it. Have a great weekend and thanks for your amazing videos! M.
Bloody marvellous Hugo! Accurate info (as always) fascinating history lessons taught and common myths kicked into touch. I love your passion, research and delivery. GOLD!
It's like receiving a gift each time I'm notified of a new video from Sonya & Hugo. (Only channel I keep notifications on.) The passion with which you express yourselves is inspiring!
I enjoy learning about the history of men's fashion in addition to the sartorial aspect and your videos provides both. I always look forward to a new episode so please keep them coming!
Like so many others, I eagerly await the next edition of your talks. Thank you very much for deepening my knowledge of men's style. You are a big reason I have been embarking on giving myself a style makeover. I live in an area that thrives on business casual, and unless you are going to the business school nearby, anyone wearing a suit sticks out like a sore thumb. Between the garments themselves and your knowledge and encouragement in your videos, I'm growing into becoming one of those sore thumbs. Thank you!
I'm so happy to read your comment Jesse. Keep the show on the road please ! We are the new rebels fighting against a world of laziness and mediocrity. Yours, Hugo
Thank you, Hugo.! I have always been a lover of the double breasteds, but fell victim to the single breasted by way of conformity, choosing my individuality by way of fabric and color. You freed me.! I feel so much stronger and more powerful in my double.! Thank you so much for the great video.!
Thank you sir!!! I just picked up my second double breasted suit today. Ready to head to the tailor. Keep the videos coming and continue to love the Lord 🙏🏽😇
Merci Monsieur, je suis tellement reconnaissant pour l'art, la culture, la musique, la mode, les influences de la cuisine que les Français ont donné au monde. Je vous remercie. For my English speaking friends I translate for you. (Thank you Mister, I am so thankful for the art, culture, music, fashion, cuisine influences that the French people have given the world. Thank you.)
Another great explanation of a classic style. I'm going out next week to look for a double-breasted suit and I'll do so with a whole new eye and perspective. Well done Hugo and the team. Keep up the good work!
I’ve learnt so much since subscribing to this channel. The main reason we’re to unbutton the last button of a suit. I’m a sucker for double breasted suits. Thank you so much sir. Btw the music at the end of the video is so captivating!
My girlfriend bought me one for my MD defence coming in few days. I didn’t like it till I watched this video. Thanks for making this. Love from Cameroon 🇨🇲
I've stumbled across your videos and I'm thoroughly enjoying them! I recently purchased a 'vintage' navy double-breasted jacket from a charity shop that has a vintage section. It just 'nips' in tight around my torso. Its the '6 and 2' configuration - peaked lapel. Working with a budget whilst aiming for Sartorial Aspirations can be challenging; but I'm determined to achieve as elegant a look as possible. I particularly was heartened to hear you say don't let anyone say you can't wear something! Thanks/Merci Tony
Thank you Tony for sharing your experience. And you are perfectly right : today with the second-hand market and the thrifting stores (physical or online), you can find great garments for reasonable money. The main (and difficult) point being to find a good alteration tailor. Cheers, Hugo
I've got to give it to you, Hugo, I've always thought DBs were 'too much' for my taste but you've converted me to them - I particularly like your dark blue one. I'll definitely be asking about one for my next suit.
Hugo for me and other is plenty of information that we need it if we didn't have you well we need it to build one like you but of course this is your gift and I m bless to know you thank you so much for the passion and wisdom words
Why didn't they just move the buttons up a bit, with less vertical space between them, and relax the chest width a bit. Seriously, he was Prince of Wales, then king; if he ever bought anything BUT bespoke, one of his tailors should he been drawn and quartered.
For the last years I have started wearing all my double breasted jackets open when walking around, the raucous statement it makes turns into an ultimate expression of sprezzatura and makes me feel like a man with utter disregard for natural human convention, a supervillain.
@@capitandelnorte old comment. But people looking why You wear double breasted open. With all the extra fabric flapping around. It's not a good look. Sorry to tell You the truth. But You probably learnt Yourself that in last 4 years.
Really love to hear something like that from u sir. When it comes to dressing, the idea of "looking good" is simply by looking good. Doesn't matter button or unbutton, wear it as if u like. As long as it fits, looks good on u, makes u confidence and comfy, it's a way to go
I really like the slanted pockets on your jacket a lot. They seem to make the DB jacket a little more modernized and not too stuffy. I wish more suit jackets had them to be honest; they help flatter the wearer by accentuating the waist suppression of the jacket and draw the viewers eye up more cleanly. I imagine they are more practical and easy to access as well since the pocket line is perpendicular to your hands if you were to go and use them. I have slanted pockets on my wool coats for this reason.
Thank you my friend for your very precise and insightful comment. I also like slanted pockets for many of the reasons you are explaining. However, I prefer straight pocket on 6X1 more casual Italian suits (like linen suits for example). But it's just a matter of taste. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, I must say your work is inspiring and much appreciated. I've gone bespoke, I've tried off the rack and have had the privilege of experiencing multiple brands from across the spectrum. But your talks on the refined art of sartorial taste really does tie all this experience together and breathe new life into it. You've convinced me here to try the double breasted suit. I wasn't brave or bold enough then, I am now. You and Sonya and your family are really making an impact with your videos. As far as information on RUclips goes you are among the crème de la crème. Keep up the good work. Regards and Cheers, Johan from Malaysia.
Thanks for the information on the double-breasted suit. I love the look. I'm under 5'2", and I just can't do the 4X1. It doesn't look right to me. How can a 6X2 be made to work for a smaller man? Button distance, button size, something else? What is the best place to ask another jacket/coat question? I have a question regarding hunting/hacking jackets, and I don't want it to get lost in the shuffle here. Thank you.
Daniel, if the 4X1 does not work for you, I would then try rather en 6X1 than a 6X2, because the 6X1 creates a long roll on the lapel that elongate the silhouette. And make sure the jacket is not too long (it should be cut a little shorter for you in order to elongate the visual of your legs). It's all a matter of proportions. For your other question send a mail to hugo@parisiangentleman.fr or post it in the feed of Sonya's episode dedicated to Jackets on this channel. Cheers, Hugo
I have this beautiful Canadian made 6x1 double-breasted blazer but I heard a lot of people said that 6x1 is bad and a thing of the 90s period that need to be forgotten .... Your video make me feel better about that blazer. Great video Hugo.
What ??? A 6X1 is a thing from the 90s ? Hahaha, this is the most absurd thing I've heard since a long time. The reality is simple : a Double-Breasted (eatery 6X2, 6X1, 4X1 etc...) has to be well cut and well fitted. In the 1990s, the disease was about the ill fit (people were dressing way too large). Please wear your DB blazer and enjoy it ! Cheers, Hugo
I prefer 6 on 3 style, similar to one used by US Navy service dress blue suit. Maybe because it looks and feels "powerful" than other styles. What's your opinion Hugo?
Good evening, a 6 on 3 is a rather rare thing to be seen these days except on navy uniforms. It is an older style of DB that was popular a long time ago in the Edwardian Era. It is most commonly seen on overcoats and pea coats because the high buttoning keeps you warm. It can look unflattering on shorter or heavier men because it buttons very high on the chest and can look blocky. But if you like the military feeling (like I actually do), it is an option to consider for sure. Cheers, Hugo
At time marker 9:08, you touched heavily on a detail that, like the tie dimple, clearly offers a point of three dimensional interest. This is the quality of content I look for in a "vlog." Thank you for your attention to such discrete detail! The concept of balance, especially with three dimensional elements, I greatly appreciate. Thank you.
(The way most, if not all, of my comments begins:) Another masterpiece by Hugo, Sonya and the whole team who stands with you. Hugo - thanks for enlightening me. It is actually the first time I really learned about the DB suit - interesting indeed. To be honest, I do not have anything special to say and I am no writer like yourself so explaining my feelings and thoughts on paper is harder for me - but I felt obligated to share my gratitude once again as you keep investing time and effort to bring this high quality content to us. I do not take that for granted - Thank you =) Take care, Amir
After this video I ordered a cotton DB neapolitan jacket from my Shanghai tailor (Germain) and was floored by the quality and the fit. Nothing has such class as this style, even the SB. This video gives you the foundation for making a wise choice.
Why are not all four lower buttons functional? It seems like having the full load on one button. Is asking a great deal of that button. Thanks for the great video.
You mean the two lower buttons ? Well, it's purely a matter of style and taste. And if the button is well made and sewn, no problem with the "load" :-) . Cheers, Hugo
Until I saw this video, I had the solid belief that short guys such as myself (I'm 5'7) could never, ever even think trying a double breasted. Now that I have seen you explaining this 4 one 1 version I find it very elegant and appealing.....and decided to try it! Thanks Hugo...really
As someone who is on the heavier side I genuinely appreciate Hugo's refined and inclusive sensitivity regarding proper fit and drape on more robust builds. For many years I chose not to wear more professional attire because I always felt judge by the salesperson constantly lamenting that they could not find something that would fit me. These experiences truly painted a picture of exclusion and body shaming that I only came to terms with once I learned of garment features such as pleats, and high rises. Yes, I have heard all of the talking points that I could simply eat healthier and exercise more frequently. Alas, I have tried both and rarely do I see long-lasting results. Now, I have managed to finally assemble a modest but uplifting wardrobe I am proud to wear at the office knowing that my clothes fit comfortably. Scholars such as Hugo elevate the field in all the best ways not exclusively through his wealth of knowledge and experience but through inclusive language acknowledging and encouraging alternative solutions for those of us who are unable to find well fitting clothes right off the rack. Thank you for such an amazing corpus!
Grâce à vous, Ms et Mme Jacomet, nous sommes toujours informés sur les dernières tensions et épanouissements autour de la mode masculine. Nous attendons votres nouveaux podcasts avec particuliere impatience. Merci. J. P. 🇫🇷 🇬🇷
I acquired my first double-breasted jacket last week, and after listening to your explanation on why going to a tailor if you're a bit more full bodied, I must say that I have been extremely lucky. My double-breasted Brioni jacket I purchased on eBay for around 30€ fits supremely well and I'm more than happy with it. It really feels like wearing an armor. Greetings from Germany!
You are indeed very lucky. The thrifting market is also a very good solution if you are on a budget. The important thing is to find a good alteration tailor close to where you live. Bravo ! Hugo
Was gonna get my first double breasted suit and was wondering how to get any information about this and then sir Hugo drops this 18min video. very mch thankful.
Thanks, even if do's and don'ts are not our specialty here. We prefer to think we inspire people and we don't pretend knowing everything. But if you learn a thing of two from us, then we are happy. Cheers, Hugo
Another great video on topic that is not trivial. You have that special kind of skill to explain the unexplainable in such simple way. Still, I have to ask: How do you prefer your last button(if it is not 6x1 of course)? Cheers
It might be useful to add that the Duke of Kent also influenced the DB suit by preferring the 6 on 1 in the 1930's. It exposes more shirt/tie creating a longer silhouette thus more flattering to less tall men or a slimming effect for those in need. I have never stopped wearing DBs for the sake of following a fashion 'tendance' at any one time, as it has been said fashion comes and goes but style remains!' Merci, Hugo.
You are absolutely right. The Duke of Kent (who mysteriously died in a military plane crash in 1942) was an elegant gentleman (in my opinion more discreet and understated, sartorially speaking, than his infamous brother the Duke of Windsor). And he popularised the 6 on 1 double breasted suit. Thanks for reminding us of this lesser known figure of the British Royal family. Hugo
Great vid - always informative. For double-breasted suit jackets, how should vents be considered? No vents seem old fashioned, but I'm curious to hear if you think it can still be styled in a modern context.
This video cost me a few thousand dollars... I couldn't be happier. The absolute truest statement in this video is the one about it being armour. As a younger man, it is also very nice to stand out in a well cut, draping DB suit.
Great video my dear friend , specially the story of king Edward ,now we know the reason ,,and i will explain it to my audience in my next training , love from Cairo.
I really want to get a suit and I love the look of a double-breasted suit. I really want one. Are they typically more expensive than single breasted suits? I am planning to save my money for a suit. With a double breasted suit could you still wear a vest or would you suggest going without?
Dear Billy, DB suits are not more expensive than SB. And no vest with a DB (as it would not show + it would add to many layers on fabrics on the belly). Cheers, Hugo
The price for a DB & SB is often similar. Usually you do not wear a vest / waistcoat with a DB, although it has been done. Enjoy the journey and cheers ! Hugo
Cheers from New York Hugo. I am an admirer of your work and been following it from the early PG days. I just purchased a beautiful (RF purple label) double breasted jacket in black for a special day. Hoping to bespoke make pants with fabric that perfectly matches the jacket (color, fabric, finish, etc). Any tips on how I should proceed?
Thank you for your loyalty. Concerning your request, the first thing to do is to know the exact reference of the fabric (brand, bunch and article number). Then to find a tailor who accepts CMT (eg, to craft without selling you the fabric). Not the easiest path but possible! Next time I advise you to go directly bespoke if you can. Cheers! Hugo
Good afternoon Roberto. I know Mauro Blasi personally. He's the current generation of an important family of Neapolitan makers (that started with the illustrious Angelo Blasi who has been the maestro and teacher of many famous tailors). He re-started his own brand recently after Sartoria Partenopea (the family business) closed down. The Blast family is a family of high reputation in Napoli, but I can't judge the work of this new brand as I did not have the occasion to check it (it's still very recent). Concerning Stefano Ricci, it's a worldwide success. Mr Ricci is a great designer, but is not a maker. His garments are made in a great sartoria on the Adriatic Coast, mainly by hand. These are good garments, but very expensive in my opinion as, for roughly the same price, you could go for real bespoke. My two cents. Cheers, Hugo
I thought I'd also mention that Daniel Radcliffe isn't just 5'7" but is infact 5'5! Many people say that short men can't wear double breasted suits and he clearly proves them wrong. I believe Edward Sexton who is a master tailor is a very short man also and wears double breasted suits a lot but still looks incredible.
You are absolutely right. Radcliffe is indeed 5'5. Edward, that I know personally, is probably around 5'7. A great man and a great tailor by the way. Hugo
hi Hugo, recent subscriber and loving your channel, what in your opinion is the best collar style to wear with a DB suit? for a formal occasion like a wedding, many thanks in advance, and I look forward to many more Sartorial Talks.
Dear Sevrin, for a wedding you can wear any type of collar because you'll probably add a bow tie right ? Otherwise if you wear a tie, make sure the points of your collars are wide enough to slightly go under the lapels of your DB. Cheers, Hugo
Question for everyone, Ive seen DB suits that button on the opposite side, meaning it folds over to the left side of body. Duke of windsor owned several. Is there a reason such as different part of world that buttons the way?
First off, thank you for your channel and videos. I hope you could clarify my question concerning placement of buttons on double breasted suits. Most of the other RUclips fashion commentators emphatically state that one should NOT have the buttons of a double breasted suit placed in a “V” shape and that a “Y” shape (I.e.; the bottom two buttons in a vertical line with the top two buttons placed farther to the side)is the only “proper” button placement, yet several of your bespoke suits use the “V” shape pattern. What are your thoughts on this question? And is the “V” patten more acceptable in Italian double breasted suits designed for warmer weather? Thanks again!
Hello Bill, the answer is simple and should have been given to you by the "commentators" you talk about : The Y is the classic button placement for a 6X2 DB (6 buttons, two potentially active, and the middle row buttoned) and the V is the classic button placement for a 6X1 DB (6 buttons, only one active on the last row). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for sharing this knowledge Hugo. You are doing a great job. I have a question regarding the suits/jackets: Is it necessary to have a ’buttonhole’ on every suit lapel (for lapel pin) or is it just for specific type of suits/jackets? Looking forward for your answer. Have a great day.
Absolutely stunning information and content as always Monsieur Hugo. Vous êtes un vrai Gentleman que j’ai eu l’honneur d’apprendre de nouvelle choses à chaque fois de lui. Merci beaucoup et bravo. Have a nice day from Morocco. Cheers, Zakaria
Besides that the video is amazing as always, I found that the new Soft Tailoring at Gieves & Hawkes has some very nice fitting DB blazers. I just wanted to share it because never found elsewhere a good fitting DB RTW. Cheers ;-)
@@SARTORIALTALKS Yes he is. Since I am still a student i did not have the chance to experience Savile Row bespoke, but some of the RTW from Savile Row can be a good value proposition. But of course bespoke is just another category.
Helpful! I tried a double breasted many years ago and it didn’t suit . Now I know why. I am a thin and short guy and the suit was 6 on 2. Also the colour was choc brown. Well I will try now again with a 4 in 1 and probably a deep blue or a medium blue colour
My pleasure. If you want to support Sartorial Talks and have access to more content please list our Patreon page : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks Cheers Sharad! Hugo
Hugo, a question for you: I have been wearing single breasted peak lapels for about 20 years. (un) fortunately, this style has become very popular in past few years. Now I am "on trend", after 2 decades, Iol. need to get some new suits made, and I am concerned that if I get more of these now, this style will seem like a bad cliche in a few years time. The same way that double-breasted circa 2000 seemed like a bad idea from the 80's. I am a shorter guy, with broad shoulders, and the peak lapels make me look good. My bespoke suits last 15+ years...so I am making a large investment which, should still look classic 20 years from now. What do you suggest? Notch lapel, or peak for next suits?
Hi hugo , I wondered if I could wear my navy pinstripe double breasted suit for an upcoming science conference . The dress code is suits but I'm a student and don't want to look out of place or overdressed than others . Your thoughts ?
Go for it ! Elegance is never out of place my friend. One advice though : play it down on accessories because pin stripe is very strong (not too much things, maybe just a tie and no pocket square). My two cents. Hugo
Bravo, Hugo! so knowledgeable, as always. Learend a lot. Apparently i should start too look for a 4 in 1 double breasted suit, when i decide to buy it, being at around 175 cm :) love your pocket squear fold. which one is it? :)
Thank you ! My pocket square is from Simonnot-Godard in France (estd 1787!!), probably the most beautiful pocket squares in the world. A national pride. Cheers, Hugo
I love Double-Breasted suits because they have more details and it really makes you feel like you are wearing an elegant coat rather than just a normal suit. Thanks for the video explaining how everything works!
You are very welcome Christopher ! Hugo
Could you do a video on pinstriped suits and pinstripe shirts? I would like to know the etiquette of pinstripes and the rules of them
"I know the purists don't like it, but I don't care."
I love it!
Dear Mark, if you'd listened to the purists in many areas, life would be so boring and codified. Let's break free, even in double-breasted suits ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS indeed there wouldn't be room for innovation and relaxation.
I hate all of the "artificial" rules around style. Yes, certain things about proportion, color combinations, etc. are objectively appealing and flattering. But I will button or unbutton my buttons as I see fit.
Instablaster...
Q
Jacomet is a true thinker because he gives us actual first principles to go on as well as history. This is so much more edifying than merely listing rules, because it shows us how the rules come about and moreover enriches our sartorial education. He covers every subject comprehensively as we see here.
Thank you so much sir for your kind words. Very encouraging! Hugo
A man who knows and is passionate about his subject matter.
Liked and subscribed.
Keep the knowledge and wisdom coming. 🇿🇦
Just last week I picked up my first double breasted suit from Prague’s master taylor, Mr. Hartl. I told him about this RUclips channel while we were doing the last fitting and handover of the final suit, and he showed me both of your books, the Italian and also the Parisian gentleman 🙂. The suit is made of grey flannel, for the winter. Time to wear it these days!
Good afternoon Marek ! Thank you for your kind words and I'm honoured that your tailor had both my books. Enjoy your flannel ! Hugo
Thank you! It is my first double breasted suit and also my first flannel suit. I love the look of it and cant wait to wear it. Have a great weekend and thanks for your amazing videos! M.
My favorite mornings are when I wake up and see a new Sartorial Talks video
That's a very kind comment Tony. Your, Hugo
Really like this dudes authenticity. No flowery language, gives you concrete facts
Bravo!!!!!! So true! Wear what you love, not what others say you may not!
Yes, if you like it, wear it ! Cheers, Hugo
Very true indeed. You should be the judge of what you wear and not others
Believe on your eyes.
Bloody marvellous Hugo! Accurate info (as always) fascinating history lessons taught and common myths kicked into touch. I love your passion, research and delivery. GOLD!
Thank you so much for your kind words and encouragements. Hugo
It's like receiving a gift each time I'm notified of a new video from Sonya & Hugo. (Only channel I keep notifications on.) The passion with which you express yourselves is inspiring!
You are so kind with us Mikal. Love from France, Hugo & Sonya
Sir your video's content cover all deep perspective of all topics. Keep making these types of videos. Love from India
Thank you Sir, Love from France, Hugo
I enjoy learning about the history of men's fashion in addition to the sartorial aspect and your videos provides both. I always look forward to a new episode so please keep them coming!
Thank you very much for your support and appreciation. Hugo
Like so many others, I eagerly await the next edition of your talks. Thank you very much for deepening my knowledge of men's style. You are a big reason I have been embarking on giving myself a style makeover. I live in an area that thrives on business casual, and unless you are going to the business school nearby, anyone wearing a suit sticks out like a sore thumb. Between the garments themselves and your knowledge and encouragement in your videos, I'm growing into becoming one of those sore thumbs. Thank you!
I'm so happy to read your comment Jesse. Keep the show on the road please ! We are the new rebels fighting against a world of laziness and mediocrity. Yours, Hugo
Thank you, Hugo.! I have always been a lover of the double breasteds, but fell victim to the single breasted by way of conformity, choosing my individuality by way of fabric and color. You freed me.! I feel so much stronger and more powerful in my double.! Thank you so much for the great video.!
What a lovely comment Mark. Yes! Feel free to rock your double-breasted ! Hugo
Thank you sir!!! I just picked up my second double breasted suit today. Ready to head to the tailor. Keep the videos coming and continue to love the Lord 🙏🏽😇
Thank you Sir! Blessings, Hugo
Love the beautiful, older-style wide lapels on his suit. So glad to see someone with so much influence and taste wearing them!
Thanks Hugo, it's nice to find a sophisticated guide that puts together all these aspects about the DB
Merci Chiquito ! Hugo
Outstanding speech. Cheers mate! It is interesting what you mentioned. If you like it, try it and wear it.
This man is serious. Great presentation. Buen hecho.
Merci Monsieur, je suis tellement reconnaissant pour l'art, la culture, la musique, la mode, les influences de la cuisine que les Français ont donné au monde. Je vous remercie.
For my English speaking friends I translate for you. (Thank you Mister, I am so thankful for the art, culture, music, fashion, cuisine influences that the French people have given the world. Thank you.)
Another great explanation of a classic style. I'm going out next week to look for a double-breasted suit and I'll do so with a whole new eye and perspective. Well done Hugo and the team. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Russ and good luck for your DB hunt ! Hugo
I’ve learnt so much since subscribing to this channel. The main reason we’re to unbutton the last button of a suit. I’m a sucker for double breasted suits. Thank you so much sir. Btw the music at the end of the video is so captivating!
Thank you sir for your appreciation, and I'm happy to read we've been useful to you. Best! Hugo
My girlfriend bought me one for my MD defence coming in few days. I didn’t like it till I watched this video. Thanks for making this. Love from Cameroon 🇨🇲
I've stumbled across your videos and I'm thoroughly enjoying them! I recently purchased a 'vintage' navy double-breasted jacket from a charity shop that has a vintage section. It just 'nips' in tight around my torso. Its the '6 and 2' configuration - peaked lapel. Working with a budget whilst aiming for Sartorial Aspirations can be challenging; but I'm determined to achieve as elegant a look as possible.
I particularly was heartened to hear you say don't let anyone say you can't wear something!
Thanks/Merci
Tony
Thank you Tony for sharing your experience. And you are perfectly right : today with the second-hand market and the thrifting stores (physical or online), you can find great garments for reasonable money. The main (and difficult) point being to find a good alteration tailor. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS indeed! My next search - a good tailor! Appreciate your reply.
A
@@tonydeltablues my pleasure, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Hugo. I'm now subscribed.
That's kind, thank you for your support. Hugo
I've got to give it to you, Hugo, I've always thought DBs were 'too much' for my taste but you've converted me to them - I particularly like your dark blue one. I'll definitely be asking about one for my next suit.
I'm sure you'll enjoy it Craig! Best, Hugo
Craig Brown you can never have too much style 😉
Please don't stop making videos Hugo, I can listen to you for hours.
Thank you for your appreciation and encouragements. Yours, Hugo
With your instruction I have developed confidence in my fashion choices. Cannot thank you enough. Thank you!
Thank you for this encouraging comment and appreciation. You are very welcome ! Hugo
I love how this man knows everything about suits! I'm very impressed, very cool.
I don't know everything about it my friend, but I love the subject (I'm an author on men's style). Best! Hugo
Hugo for me and other is plenty of information that we need it if we didn't have you well we need it to build one like you but of course this is your gift and I m bless to know you thank you so much for the passion and wisdom words
As I love double-breasted jackets this was one of my favorite episodes.
Thanks Marc. I love double-breasted too! They represent 2/3 of my wardrobe. Cheers, Hugo
Many thanks Hugo! I admire your insights. Almost finished reading your great work The Italian Gentleman. Thanks!
Thank you Ben for your appreciation and support. I'm glad you enjoyed my second book. Hugo
Excellent video. Great picture examples to compliment your speech
Thank you very much for your appreciation ! Hugo
I've never heard such a full account of the King Edward story. Thank you for fleshing out the legend.
Why didn't they just move the buttons up a bit, with less vertical space between them, and relax the chest width a bit. Seriously, he was Prince of Wales, then king; if he ever bought anything BUT bespoke, one of his tailors should he been drawn and quartered.
For the last years I have started wearing all my double breasted jackets open when walking around, the raucous statement it makes turns into an ultimate expression of sprezzatura and makes me feel like a man with utter disregard for natural human convention, a supervillain.
@@capitandelnorte old comment.
But people looking why You wear double breasted open.
With all the extra fabric flapping around.
It's not a good look.
Sorry to tell You the truth.
But You probably learnt Yourself that in last 4 years.
Really love to hear something like that from u sir. When it comes to dressing, the idea of "looking good" is simply by looking good. Doesn't matter button or unbutton, wear it as if u like. As long as it fits, looks good on u, makes u confidence and comfy, it's a way to go
I can't disagree ! Cheers, Hugo
I really like the slanted pockets on your jacket a lot. They seem to make the DB jacket a little more modernized and not too stuffy. I wish more suit jackets had them to be honest; they help flatter the wearer by accentuating the waist suppression of the jacket and draw the viewers eye up more cleanly. I imagine they are more practical and easy to access as well since the pocket line is perpendicular to your hands if you were to go and use them. I have slanted pockets on my wool coats for this reason.
Thank you my friend for your very precise and insightful comment. I also like slanted pockets for many of the reasons you are explaining. However, I prefer straight pocket on 6X1 more casual Italian suits (like linen suits for example). But it's just a matter of taste. Cheers, Hugo
Guten morgen hugo! Nice video. Can you tell me what are your favorite fragrances? Greetings from cologne.
Thank you sir👏🏽👏🏽 I just got mine a few week's ago it was so hard to find also. Pleased with the look of it....
We are happy for you, Cheers, Hugo
spoken like a Master - love your works and video. it has educated me well. Good wealth and happiness to you and your Mrs.
Hugo, I must say your work is inspiring and much appreciated. I've gone bespoke, I've tried off the rack and have had the privilege of experiencing multiple brands from across the spectrum. But your talks on the refined art of sartorial taste really does tie all this experience together and breathe new life into it.
You've convinced me here to try the double breasted suit. I wasn't brave or bold enough then, I am now.
You and Sonya and your family are really making an impact with your videos. As far as information on RUclips goes you are among the crème de la crème.
Keep up the good work.
Regards and Cheers, Johan from Malaysia.
Your videos are fantastic. Really enjoying this series.
Thank you so much Michael. Hugo
Thanks for the information on the double-breasted suit. I love the look.
I'm under 5'2", and I just can't do the 4X1. It doesn't look right to me. How can a 6X2 be made to work for a smaller man? Button distance, button size, something else?
What is the best place to ask another jacket/coat question? I have a question regarding hunting/hacking jackets, and I don't want it to get lost in the shuffle here.
Thank you.
Daniel, if the 4X1 does not work for you, I would then try rather en 6X1 than a 6X2, because the 6X1 creates a long roll on the lapel that elongate the silhouette. And make sure the jacket is not too long (it should be cut a little shorter for you in order to elongate the visual of your legs). It's all a matter of proportions. For your other question send a mail to hugo@parisiangentleman.fr or post it in the feed of Sonya's episode dedicated to Jackets on this channel.
Cheers, Hugo
As an artist I find your channel inspiring.
Thanks Jennifer ! Hugo
Hugo is the best ive seen on youtube to guide you...bravo !!!!1!
Thank you for your enthusiasm Dilip ! Cheers, Hugo
Another superb episode, thank you very much Hugo
My pleasure! Cheers, Hugo
Always great commentary on real life, style not fashion. Bravo sir!
Thank you Jay ! Cheers, Hugo
I have this beautiful Canadian made 6x1 double-breasted blazer but I heard a lot of people said that 6x1 is bad and a thing of the 90s period that need to be forgotten .... Your video make me feel better about that blazer.
Great video Hugo.
What ??? A 6X1 is a thing from the 90s ? Hahaha, this is the most absurd thing I've heard since a long time. The reality is simple : a Double-Breasted (eatery 6X2, 6X1, 4X1 etc...) has to be well cut and well fitted. In the 1990s, the disease was about the ill fit (people were dressing way too large). Please wear your DB blazer and enjoy it ! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for your thoughful comment!
You are welcome ! Hugo
I prefer 6 on 3 style, similar to one used by US Navy service dress blue suit. Maybe because it looks and feels "powerful" than other styles.
What's your opinion Hugo?
Good evening, a 6 on 3 is a rather rare thing to be seen these days except on navy uniforms. It is an older style of DB that was popular a long time ago in the Edwardian Era. It is most commonly seen on overcoats and pea coats because the high buttoning keeps you warm. It can look unflattering on shorter or heavier men because it buttons very high on the chest and can look blocky. But if you like the military feeling (like I actually do), it is an option to consider for sure. Cheers, Hugo
I bought a 6 on 3 db suit today and I love it!
The double breasted suit is my favorite 😍.
Same here. Cheers, Hugo
I love it too, but my 5:5 body can’t really carry it :/
@@bensonhsu3783 I'm five one and I wear o e
At time marker 9:08, you touched heavily on a detail that, like the tie dimple, clearly offers a point of three dimensional interest. This is the quality of content I look for in a "vlog." Thank you for your attention to such discrete detail! The concept of balance, especially with three dimensional elements, I greatly appreciate. Thank you.
Thank you Dain for your appreciation. A little tension is not always bad for the health ! Cheers, Hugo
(The way most, if not all, of my comments begins:) Another masterpiece by Hugo, Sonya and the whole team who stands with you.
Hugo - thanks for enlightening me. It is actually the first time I really learned about the DB suit - interesting indeed.
To be honest, I do not have anything special to say and I am no writer like yourself so explaining my feelings and thoughts on paper is harder for me - but I felt obligated to share my gratitude once again as you keep investing time and effort to bring this high quality content to us. I do not take that for granted - Thank you =)
Take care,
Amir
Wonderful insight as always Hugo. Thanks for sharing...
You are very welcome! Cheers, Hugo
It is the best review and the best explanation for double breasted suit ever.
After this video I ordered a cotton DB neapolitan jacket from my Shanghai tailor (Germain) and was floored by the quality and the fit. Nothing has such class as this style, even the SB. This video gives you the foundation for making a wise choice.
Dear Stewart, congratulations for your DB. And I agree, the class of a DB in unsurpassable (when properly cut and fitted of course). Hugo
Thank you again for enlighten us about the Double-Breasted suit and its history!
With great pleasure ! Hugo
Why are not all four lower buttons functional? It seems like having the full load on one button. Is asking a great deal of that button. Thanks for the great video.
You mean the two lower buttons ? Well, it's purely a matter of style and taste. And if the button is well made and sewn, no problem with the "load" :-) . Cheers, Hugo
Until I saw this video, I had the solid belief that short guys such as myself (I'm 5'7) could never, ever even think trying a double breasted. Now that I have seen you explaining this 4 one 1 version I find it very elegant and appealing.....and decided to try it! Thanks Hugo...really
Thank you Hugo👏
Can you also go over the double breasted overcoat & double breasted vest...The history ,tailoring & the do's & don'ts of wearing each.
As someone who is on the heavier side I genuinely appreciate Hugo's refined and inclusive sensitivity regarding proper fit and drape on more robust builds. For many years I chose not to wear more professional attire because I always felt judge by the salesperson constantly lamenting that they could not find something that would fit me. These experiences truly painted a picture of exclusion and body shaming that I only came to terms with once I learned of garment features such as pleats, and high rises. Yes, I have heard all of the talking points that I could simply eat healthier and exercise more frequently. Alas, I have tried both and rarely do I see long-lasting results. Now, I have managed to finally assemble a modest but uplifting wardrobe I am proud to wear at the office knowing that my clothes fit comfortably. Scholars such as Hugo elevate the field in all the best ways not exclusively through his wealth of knowledge and experience but through inclusive language acknowledging and encouraging alternative solutions for those of us who are unable to find well fitting clothes right off the rack. Thank you for such an amazing corpus!
Love this. Glad you’ve found a style that works.
Hello Hugo 😊 I could listen to you for hours and hours, thank you for sharing 🙏🏼👌🏼
Love & good spirit from Denmark 🇩🇰
Grâce à vous, Ms et Mme Jacomet, nous sommes toujours informés sur les dernières tensions et épanouissements autour de la mode masculine. Nous attendons votres nouveaux podcasts avec particuliere impatience. Merci. J. P. 🇫🇷 🇬🇷
You are truly an artist. Thank you for posting and please keep them coming💪🏼
I acquired my first double-breasted jacket last week, and after listening to your explanation on why going to a tailor if you're a bit more full bodied, I must say that I have been extremely lucky. My double-breasted Brioni jacket I purchased on eBay for around 30€ fits supremely well and I'm more than happy with it. It really feels like wearing an armor.
Greetings from Germany!
You are indeed very lucky. The thrifting market is also a very good solution if you are on a budget. The important thing is to find a good alteration tailor close to where you live. Bravo ! Hugo
I recently bought a double brested suit can I wear it without a tie because I live in Florida and summers are 100 winters 75 so hot?
Was gonna get my first double breasted suit and was wondering how to get any information about this and then sir Hugo drops this 18min video. very mch thankful.
You are so very welcome. Cheers, Hugo
Finally somebody said it:if you love it wear it!!!Hugo you are the leader that the sartorial movement needed!!!
Thank you Nikos! I don't consider myself as a leader at all, but if this channel can inspire some people, then I'm happy. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS we are happy for your advices and the historic facts about the sartorial movement.merci
I love learning the do's and don'ts. Thanks Hugo.
Thanks, even if do's and don'ts are not our specialty here. We prefer to think we inspire people and we don't pretend knowing everything. But if you learn a thing of two from us, then we are happy. Cheers, Hugo
Another great video on topic that is not trivial. You have that special kind of skill to explain the unexplainable in such simple way. Still, I have to ask: How do you prefer your last button(if it is not 6x1 of course)? Cheers
Thanks Luca for your kind words and appreciation. I prefer to wear my 6X2 with the last button unbuttoned. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for the answer.
You are very welcome @@lukapavlovic1005 . Hugo
A super introduction. Love the story about the button and the king.
"Style is being at your ease".....very well said, Thank you!
It might be useful to add that the Duke of Kent also influenced the DB suit by preferring the 6 on 1 in the 1930's. It exposes more shirt/tie creating a longer silhouette thus more flattering to less tall men or a slimming effect for those in need. I have never stopped wearing DBs for the sake of following a fashion 'tendance' at any one time, as it has been said fashion comes and goes but style remains!' Merci, Hugo.
You are absolutely right. The Duke of Kent (who mysteriously died in a military plane crash in 1942) was an elegant gentleman (in my opinion more discreet and understated, sartorially speaking, than his infamous brother the Duke of Windsor). And he popularised the 6 on 1 double breasted suit. Thanks for reminding us of this lesser known figure of the British Royal family. Hugo
Great vid - always informative. For double-breasted suit jackets, how should vents be considered? No vents seem old fashioned, but I'm curious to hear if you think it can still be styled in a modern context.
This video cost me a few thousand dollars... I couldn't be happier. The absolute truest statement in this video is the one about it being armour. As a younger man, it is also very nice to stand out in a well cut, draping DB suit.
I love it you tell people to do what feels good to them and not always follow "the rules".
Thank you, Hugo.! I am a lover of the double breasted suit. I feel much more educated and at ease with how I wear mine, thanks to you. Bravo !
Great video my dear friend , specially the story of king Edward ,now we know the reason ,,and i will explain it to my audience in my next training , love from Cairo.
Thank you my dear friend ! Love from Paris ! Hugo
Amazing information and presentation as always. I just love ur channel.
Thank you so much Misha! Hugo
Although this video is old i have to ask. Is it possible for a DB suit to have more than six buttons?
I really want to get a suit and I love the look of a double-breasted suit. I really want one. Are they typically more expensive than single breasted suits? I am planning to save my money for a suit. With a double breasted suit could you still wear a vest or would you suggest going without?
Dear Billy, DB suits are not more expensive than SB. And no vest with a DB (as it would not show + it would add to many layers on fabrics on the belly). Cheers, Hugo
The price for a DB & SB is often similar. Usually you do not wear a vest / waistcoat with a DB, although it has been done. Enjoy the journey and cheers ! Hugo
My first suit was double breasted suit. Also, in Poland suit jacked is called "marynarka", that comes from mariner, marine ;)
Cheers from New York Hugo. I am an admirer of your work and been following it from the early PG days. I just purchased a beautiful (RF purple label) double breasted jacket in black for a special day. Hoping to bespoke make pants with fabric that perfectly matches the jacket (color, fabric, finish, etc). Any tips on how I should proceed?
Thank you for your loyalty. Concerning your request, the first thing to do is to know the exact reference of the fabric (brand, bunch and article number). Then to find a tailor who accepts CMT (eg, to craft without selling you the fabric). Not the easiest path but possible! Next time I advise you to go directly bespoke if you can. Cheers! Hugo
Hi Hugo, what are you think about Mauro Blasi and Stefano Ricci as a brand? And what exact product are you reccomending to buy from these brands?
Good afternoon Roberto. I know Mauro Blasi personally. He's the current generation of an important family of Neapolitan makers (that started with the illustrious Angelo Blasi who has been the maestro and teacher of many famous tailors). He re-started his own brand recently after Sartoria Partenopea (the family business) closed down. The Blast family is a family of high reputation in Napoli, but I can't judge the work of this new brand as I did not have the occasion to check it (it's still very recent). Concerning Stefano Ricci, it's a worldwide success. Mr Ricci is a great designer, but is not a maker. His garments are made in a great sartoria on the Adriatic Coast, mainly by hand. These are good garments, but very expensive in my opinion as, for roughly the same price, you could go for real bespoke. My two cents. Cheers, Hugo
"Our good friend the king Edward the seventh" XD XD XD
That's a good one
Haha, yes. Cheers ! Hugo
Although it's Edward the Sixth 🙂
I'm pretty sure Edward Vlll was Bertie, in the 1930s, never actually crowned.
I thought I'd also mention that Daniel Radcliffe isn't just 5'7" but is infact 5'5! Many people say that short men can't wear double breasted suits and he clearly proves them wrong. I believe Edward Sexton who is a master tailor is a very short man also and wears double breasted suits a lot but still looks incredible.
You are absolutely right. Radcliffe is indeed 5'5. Edward, that I know personally, is probably around 5'7. A great man and a great tailor by the way. Hugo
hi Hugo, recent subscriber and loving your channel, what in your opinion is the best collar style to wear with a DB suit? for a formal occasion like a wedding, many thanks in advance, and I look forward to many more Sartorial Talks.
Dear Sevrin, for a wedding you can wear any type of collar because you'll probably add a bow tie right ? Otherwise if you wear a tie, make sure the points of your collars are wide enough to slightly go under the lapels of your DB. Cheers, Hugo
Many thanks Hugo, all the best, Sev
You're welcome Sev. Hugo
Question for everyone, Ive seen DB suits that button on the opposite side, meaning it folds over to the left side of body. Duke of windsor owned several. Is there a reason such as different part of world that buttons the way?
Great video i always enjoy all of your knowledge on mens wear. Hope you and your wife are doing well.
Thank you Mike. And yes, Sonya and I are doing very well. Cheers, Hugo
First off, thank you for your channel and videos. I hope you could clarify my question concerning placement of buttons on double breasted suits. Most of the other RUclips fashion commentators emphatically state that one should NOT have the buttons of a double breasted suit placed in a “V” shape and that a “Y” shape (I.e.; the bottom two buttons in a vertical line with the top two buttons placed farther to the side)is the only “proper” button placement, yet several of your bespoke suits use the “V” shape pattern. What are your thoughts on this question? And is the “V” patten more acceptable in Italian double breasted suits designed for warmer weather? Thanks again!
Hello Bill, the answer is simple and should have been given to you by the "commentators" you talk about : The Y is the classic button placement for a 6X2 DB (6 buttons, two potentially active, and the middle row buttoned) and the V is the classic button placement for a 6X1 DB (6 buttons, only one active on the last row). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for sharing this knowledge Hugo. You are doing a great job.
I have a question regarding the suits/jackets: Is it necessary to have a ’buttonhole’ on every suit lapel (for lapel pin) or is it just for specific type of suits/jackets?
Looking forward for your answer. Have a great day.
Absolutely stunning information and content as always Monsieur Hugo. Vous êtes un vrai Gentleman que j’ai eu l’honneur d’apprendre de nouvelle choses à chaque fois de lui. Merci beaucoup et bravo. Have a nice day from Morocco. Cheers, Zakaria
Besides that the video is amazing as always, I found that the new Soft Tailoring at Gieves & Hawkes has some very nice fitting DB blazers.
I just wanted to share it because never found elsewhere a good fitting DB RTW.
Cheers ;-)
Thank you for your comment Diego. I don't know G&H RTW, but I can say that their head bespoke cutter Davide Taub is a great talent. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Yes he is.
Since I am still a student i did not have the chance to experience Savile Row bespoke, but some of the RTW from Savile Row can be a good value proposition.
But of course bespoke is just another category.
I think their RTW is crafted in Italy and in China as well. Hence the good value. Chester Barrie is also a good option in London. Cheers, Hugo
Helpful! I tried a double breasted many years ago and it didn’t suit . Now I know why. I am a thin and short guy and the suit was 6 on 2. Also the colour was choc brown. Well I will try now again with a 4 in 1 and probably a deep blue or a medium blue colour
Yes Sharad, try it again, and take your time. Hugo
Thanks dear sir 🙏🏻
My pleasure. If you want to support Sartorial Talks and have access to more content please list our Patreon page : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks
Cheers Sharad! Hugo
Hugo, a question for you: I have been wearing single breasted peak lapels for about 20 years. (un) fortunately, this style has become very popular in past few years. Now I am "on trend", after 2 decades, Iol. need to get some new suits made, and I am concerned that if I get more of these now, this style will seem like a bad cliche in a few years time. The same way that double-breasted circa 2000 seemed like a bad idea from the 80's. I am a shorter guy, with broad shoulders, and the peak lapels make me look good. My bespoke suits last 15+ years...so I am making a large investment which, should still look classic 20 years from now. What do you suggest? Notch lapel, or peak for next suits?
Definitely this is the best youtube channel if you want to have a deep notion of gentleman dress
Thank you Mattias for your appreciation and support! Hugo
This man is well seasoned and knows what he speaks about!
Thanks J G ! Hugo
Hi hugo , I wondered if I could wear my navy pinstripe double breasted suit for an upcoming science conference . The dress code is suits but I'm a student and don't want to look out of place or overdressed than others . Your thoughts ?
Go for it ! Elegance is never out of place my friend. One advice though : play it down on accessories because pin stripe is very strong (not too much things, maybe just a tie and no pocket square). My two cents. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you sir , appreciate it !
this guy is so knowledgeable!! Wow! well done!!
Thank you Madam. Hugo
Once again, Hugo, that was great. Thank you.
You are very welcome Jean, Hugo
Thanks for the great video, I'm going to check for "tension" on my DB buttons!
Bravo, Hugo! so knowledgeable, as always. Learend a lot. Apparently i should start too look for a 4 in 1 double breasted suit, when i decide to buy it, being at around 175 cm :)
love your pocket squear fold. which one is it? :)
Thank you ! My pocket square is from Simonnot-Godard in France (estd 1787!!), probably the most beautiful pocket squares in the world. A national pride. Cheers, Hugo
Great explanation/tutorial of the Double-Breasted Suit.